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The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, February 28, 1904, PART IV, Image 31

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn84020274/1904-02-28/ed-1/seq-31/

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Costumes Which ill be Most Suitable and At-
tractive for Jaunts to the Exposition Grounds
Comfort, Convenience and Neat
ness the Features.
Ho! for the World's Fair C.lrl!
She is almost here, and she I- 'bringing
herjprelty and her useful clothes alo'ns;.
She will combine the two as far ai pos
sible, for she knows that she mustnot
only be comfortably and conveniently
clai when the Kate. swing wide open on
April CO. but that she must have a neat,
trim and attractive appearance so that
her vlsltlnj friends, her pew friends, even
the, chance passer-by, must be impressed
with the fact that the St. Louis World's
Fair Girl knows how to -dress. T
The tailors are bound .to get all our
clothes allowance, for Overs' woman
knows that tailored effects Jn dresses anJ
hlrl waists are par excellence the only
things suitable and permissible.
I speak now of general slight-seeing
Fair wea.
Of course, there are to lie many func
tions given for dignitaries next summer
when we shall atl don the best, and the
moat fanciful garb that we posseH. But
Tfhen we go out to the grounds for a
iayof right-seeing; with perhaps a lunch
eon engagement with two or three friends
at lome pavilion, to be followed by a
Jolly tittle dinner, on the-Pike In tlio even
ing, (when the bands play and everything
la gay beyond expression, we must solve
the clothes problem early In the morning
and look well all day.
It won't be an easy task, especially if
the reather. chances to be hot. The dust
may render even the whitest and freshest
of attire grimy and soiled In two hours'
time, and we are all liable to get mussed
and; seedly-looklng unless our clothes are
carefully selected and of the most proper
kind of materials.
Tlfere must be one piece de resistance
In every World's Fair Girl's spring and
cummer wardrobe. She is permitted a
limited variety of stuffs from which to
choose. She may select a light-weight
woolen, serviceable serge, which wears
like; Iron, a camel's hair, with the pretty
and: always becoming long-haired sur
face, or one of those new fuzzy-looking
cloths that come In some of the blue and
green mixtures.
She may choose an alpaca, and this she
certainly will do If she wishes to belong
to the ultras, who are nil going in for
U30 and 1X50 styles and materials.
She may have a silk shirt-waist suit
and wear It everywhere. But one of
these the must have, and it must be made
In two pieces, a walking skirt, what the
vaach have termed a "trctloir," that is,
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clearing the ground by an Inch and
three-quarters, or more. If she prefers
to show a pretty foot neatly clad, and a
blouEcd Eton coat, no collar, allowing
plenty of glimpses of the dainty stock,
and preferably with the fronts so made
as as not to close, so that her embroid
eied blouse of soft mull may show.
The girdle must be high all round.
There mustn't h a sign of a tall Jn
the back, and the dip In front is only
Don't think that your long. thre"-nuar-ter
coat, that you bad made last fall, Is
going to do duty for the llt. j.t ... .
It Is woefully out of It. t:ut off the
fklrts and turn them into something mora
useful.. They have seen their day.
If the World's Fair Girl decides on a
silk suit, rhe may choose any of the new
taffeta weaves or the soft, thick and
saintly messaline, which is beautiful. In
deed. Then she must not have the bodice
part In coat cut, but, intead, a regular
shirt-waist suit, with the same kind of
skirt that I have described above for the
cloth effects, and a tailored shirt waist
for her bodice.
Everybody knows that there is nothing
so dressy, and neat-looking at the same
time, as one of these silk costumes. They
look well for every possible occasion, and
If the silk be of good quality poor silk
Is always terribly expensive, for It wears
out "in no time at all may be worn
straight through the summer and early
autumn without showing a sign of shab
blness. The skirt is always available for
duty with a white linen or madras shirt
waist. If the weather is warm. But. of
course, a silk eult requires an additional
garment In the shape of some soft, or
extra, coat. A coat will be essential, for
the breeze always comes from the south
at night In Forest Park, I care not how
high the thermometer may go during the
For economy's sake the two-piece cloth
gown Is a better Investment, as the Eton
may be worn with thin gons and ehlrt
waists at any time.
Voile Is going to make a very good
World's Fair dress, so Price declares, and
who should know better? He says that
forehanded St. Louip women are order
ing their general utility gown for the
spring and summer wear of this fine ma
terial, very generally. And It has much
to recommend it, though you will at once
exclaim that Its thin texture and fllrcI-
Tliroo new World's Fair stock". The first is of white pique, touched with Russian
cross-stitch embroidery in red. Mack and blue. The second is a. pique stock with the
'Mip" tie of soft white batiste, embroidered in whit and black dots. The square
ends are new. The third mannish affair Is nn all-pique stock that may be copied in
linen witli colored ends, with embroider-, with mull and lace a variety of ways. All
thrco are st)lith for Fair near.
Belt of white morale cloth in the new
metal. This belt measures 414 inches wide.
to mat dt- shirUaaist nnltftvflf--ilneu,-raercerized cotton,- Oxford, or sill-
ness will necessitate an underlining of
silk, which Is avoided by a fabric with
more body and substance. But that is just
where the voile scores, so fays Price.
"White petticoats will last half an hour
perhaps longer on the World's Fair
pluzas and roadways. Of course, they've
got to be worn when you are in 'a white
linen or cotton dress, but suppose you
don't want to wear such, and, instead,
don your voile. Doesn't the silk drop skirt
take the place of the white petticoat and
isn't it light of weight and a perfect dust
shunner? With the voile skirt made
walking length. 1 can think of no more
ueful and suitable fabric for our cxpscted
hot weather.
"The skirt mut be full, and It nvist
always) be a trifle about one Inch short
er In the back than the front, to give jut
the' right tilt out at the sides and a pretty
graceful swing when the lady walks.
Most of the best models show yokes over
the hlp and then many pleats below,
either box or of the side variety. -
wortUJ's r.'.m skihts
"One feature of this World's Fair skirt
must be Its pocket. I don't quite know
wheie I'm going to put It. but the pocket
simply must be there.
"The coat is an Hton. of course, with the
long, sloping hou!dem and ruffle of muslin
that can be fre-hened often, hung in the
cuffs and allowed to fail over the hand".
A touch of this me ruffling down the
front of the underblouse. showing where
the coat opens, should nlso be added.
"The high girdle Is separable, made of
either the same material ns the suit or
els.e a contrasting tilk, end takes the belt
"Theseiinderblou.-vr may be of p.laln ma
terials, but when desired to be "worn at
several different place") in one day should
be dressy. Many women are ordering
theirs of the finest and most elaborately
embroidered mulis, ps the shop were
never so full of beautiful effects in all
overs of embroidery with some of the
Russian crois-stltch work in between the
white cutwork, or else soft, creamy mulls
with embroidered designs that stand out
fully a half Inch from the goods."
Color work Is a great feature with all
the World's Fair dresses, so Mr. Harbi
son tells me. Every costume that he is
turning out now or expects to soon will
be "featured" with much color, sometimes
two or three o a dress.
Of course, you understand that this
applies only to very delicate touches, like
pipings, and slender threads of contrast.
A brown alpaca, for Instance, in a me
dium shade, the skirt side-pleated and
yoked, and the coat an Eton, will have
pipings down the skirt-straps of black
and baby blue, while the coat is similarly
trimmed, and with excellent effect.
It Is not too early to predict many
linen goods for World's F?lr wear, and
the girl who likes smartness and a gen
eral air of being well groomed Is plan
ning her linen suits right now. She ex
pects to have a medium blue, trimmed
wide pattern, with square buckle of gun
It may be produced in any white goods.
with embroidery to correspond, two or
three plain white affairs, the shlrw
matching the skirt- In their pleats and
arrangement of buttons, and maybe ,a
fine whlte-embioiJerrd linen in one of the
handsome patterr.s which lure the money
from our pocketbook-! as they smile at
U3 from their neat little boxes In the
showcase. i
My gfrl will have just as many shirt
waists' made after jiwt as many smart
designs as she can afford. Unless her
w.ifst matches In material and cut some
particular skirt, she would better stick to
white and nothing is so good as plain
white linen, either the coarse variety,
which is stylish, or the finer ones, which
are cool and lovely for torrid days.
The shirt-waist hat will be the hat.
Nothing else Is worthy of consideration
for Fair wear. Already milliners aro re
ceiving advance orders from their regular
customers, who tell them that they do not
expert to buy several dress hats, as in
former summers, but that they will re
quire two or three very smart tailor hats,
suitable for shirt-waist suits, and that
these must have individuality and lots of
chimes? or they won't do. It Is too
early to say much about shapes, but one
style is bound to be a favorite, because
it Is so becoming to many persons. That
is the Colonial, or three-cornered affair.
It admits of a severity that is useful and
correct for tho wear that It must have,
and 13 also dressj-.
Stock-j are Infinite. They were never so
numerous In shape and never so pretty
Mrs. Fred Nolker is making a genuine
sensation down at Palm Beach with her
many handsome costumes. She is already
considered cr.e of the most elaborately
drersed women at the Royal Polnciana,
which, a1? many New Yorkers of wealth
and taste, as well as those from almost
every city in the Union, are gathered un
der thi3 hotel roof, nieans a distinction
or considerable importance.
At a large ball given at the hotel last
week Mrs. Nolker wore a decollete cos
tume of white silk mull, delicately fig
ured in palest pink and faintest yellow
popples, the ribbon garniture of the same
wo tintsjvjt was .-o diaphanous and eml
i.etly suited to tho summery atmosphere
and the tropical surroundings that every
one admired and envied. Mrs. Nolkcr's
ci cations nearly all come from, ParK She
has oince her arrival at Palm Beach re
ceded dczen of the newest things from
one of the best-known Parisian coutou
rleres, who takes great pride in turning
out this St. Louis lady in the prettiest
and most becoming of the new styles.
At this same ball Mrs. Lon V. Stephens
was also a guest, wearing a blue brocade,
with much Irish point about It. Mrs.
Stephens has a penchant for this crochet
lace, and owns a great deal that 13 valu
able and handsome. Miss Betttc May Sal
votcr, another guest, wore pink taffeta in
one of the new iridescent weaves, with
French applique, and Mrs. Robert Stock
tori was In a dress of American beauty
chiffon, shaded to the palest of pinks.
At last the 'United Daughters of the
Confederacy have decided on their big
ball date. It was to have, been before
Lent, but was postponed until after
Easter In order not to conflict with the
many prc-Lcnten affairs, and so be rebbed
of any eclat, and also because early In
f mm mm A
sesSgEss vSByCimi k .mi
Narrow "turn-over" col'ar with cuff to
match of colored linen, bordered with lace.
Over a black or dark colored ellk stock
this set looks particularly well.
and elaborate. Embroidery Is everywhere.
The turnovers have lots of It in cut
work designs, and Jn Inserted medallions,
etcr The stocks, per se, are covered with
Russian cross stitches and with Bulgarian
bulges in colors. Color is everywhere. It
is a color season.
Belts are high.
And their prices are higher. Whew!
How those lovely Suede things with Jew
eled buckles and front do cost!
I saw a shell effect, with the shell in
laid In sparkling French gems, not real,
of course, but fully as effective as though
they were, with some little silk of the
same shell tint set In between the slides
and buckles, that made my eyes bulge
when I read the price ticket.
The peacock designs are still as good as
they were in the winter, and the leathers
in all possible tints with leather-covered
square buckles are excellent In design.
Tor wear with cotton and linen gowns
come the belt3 of the same materials,
which are very easy of home manufac
ture, since they are merely four or fivo
inch bands curved a bit In front and nar
rowed down to Joint and slide through the
buckle, which may be as simple as a plain
square gun-metal effect, or as elaborate
as a chased sliver inlaid with cabuchon
Gloves for the World's Fair maid will
be optional. But If she expects to keep
her hands clean out at the grounds she
will Invest in white wash silk or lisle. And
If she wears gloves anyhow. Just on gen
eral principles, she will prefer the- white
pique that is awfully smart-looking and
trgmttriJte:-' guv-cool days with her.ecrnor
navy blue voile costume she win wear
gloves of the same color In kid.
The tan Russia shoe In Oxford shape
is to be the shoe. That much waa as
sured last fall when the dealers began to
get very busy with their orders for this
leather. It had a start last summer and
will be here In full glory by May. There
Is no more comfortable leather than Rus
sia, and comfort In footgear Is the moat
Important factor in World's Fair dress.
If one's shoes hurt I defy even the most
artistic soul to get any pleasure out of a
monster dynamo or a centuries-old Mu
April the new Jefferson Hotel will te
open, and It Is there that the ball will be
given, the opening function, in fact, of this
fine inn.
As the Daughters are making extensive
plans, the entertainment promises to be
noteworthy for many reasons. It Is ex
pected that all the distinguished foreign
ers then In town will present themselves
they will certainly be invited and urged
to come and with gorgeous decorations In
the beautiful new houe and with ail the
social elite of town in attendance, this
ball cannot fall to be the event of the
Mrs. Morton Jourdan read before the
Twentieth Century Art Club a compre
hensive paper on "How to Judge a Pic
ture," first admitting that genuine art
critics are rare. Beginning with Greek art
and Its power among men, Rhe followed
out the study of canvas of the few suc
cessful colorlsts; Titian, Rubens, Rem
brandt, Regnault and the great Florentine
draughtsmen, Raphael, Angelo and Leo
nardo. The study of Millet's coloring was
urged. "Detection of the beauty of color
cannot be learned from a book." Atten
tion was called to the necessity of study
of tone and gradation as found In the
work of Correglo. Corot was mentioned
as chief among lumlnarlsts. The student
was congratulated on the Increasing num
ber of fine things In American galleries.
In the World's Fair section Miss
Kathertne Higglns took up "Woman's
part in the Louisiana Purchase, mention
ing the negative position given to wom.in
at the outset of the Fair preparation-?,
thcro nelng no women on the original
board and no appropriation from Con
gress for the exclusive use of women,
the original Idea having been to establish
111 IF
Jill ' I: ill -"
a permanent Hall of Fhllanthrophy. The
failure of thl conception was a disap
pointment. Miss Margaret Wood held that
there are compensations in the failure: It
will dignify woman's work to bo placed
on the same footing as that of the man's.
not being isolated from the groups to
which it belongs. As the arrangement now
stands, the work of women exhibitors
will, for the first time In nny organiza
tion, stand side bv side with man's work
and te measured by the same standard.
"The elimination of the purely feminine
Is especially representative of modern con
ditions." Attention was called to the sev
en women sculptors, two being from Mis
souri. The meeting was presided over hy
MIs Beckley. who returned last week
from California.
The Modern Novel Club had last week.
a consideration of "Philip and His Wife.'
by De Lauel. It was generally conceded,
that "Philip" had no right to divorce
that public morals must not suffer for pri
vate virtue: that "Philip's" virtue be
came a vice; he wai so occupied In saving
his own soul that he could not glvo proper
attention to the woman under his protec
tion. No man Is Justified In Ignoring the
needs of other while seeking his own belt
development. Mrs. Maria Johnston de
clared that conscience was something
more than a mind governed by rule; it
belongs to our condition and carries its
own authority with It. Mrs. Morris con
tended that each Individual should stay in
the fight of life and strive to win. not
shirking, after "Philip's" fashion, even so
save himself. Mr?. Robert Noonan held
that duty and wlf-lntere.it are coincident,
that If the duty is performed the self-interest
Is advanced. Distinctions were
drawn by other ladles between the con
science of liberty and the liberty of con
science, the former preferred as expressing
the highest standard.
The Literary Sympcglum discussed Ger
man realists Thursday morning. Mrs.
Griffith showed that Germany created a
sty.'e of her own In art. by painting real
Instead of Ideal life. Ehe gave the work
of Rembrandt, the great Dutch master,
and also that of noted Flemish artists.
She noticed the present schools of Mu
nich, Vienna and" Berlin and tho styles ofi
paintings we shall likely see In the Ger
man collection at the World's Fair.
The French school Is the subject foC
next Thursday at Hotel Beers.
Byzantine features In art was the thf m
at the Mcntlcello Symposium Tuesday
Mrs. Griffith called the dome the grfat
est contribution to architecture and sym
bollsm the chief charm of Byzantine art
After noticing the most splenldid domes)
of the world, she called attention to tha
many beautiful domes on World's Fair
buildings. She closed with a description
of the Palace of Manufactures. Tho
Cathedral of Milan Is the subject for next
Tuesday morning at the Montlcello Hotel.
Mrs. Martha Davis Griffith will repeat,
by request, "The Art of the Architect,'
Saturday evening, March 5, at 8 o'clock;
at the Conervatorium, No. SCI Olive
Mrs. Edward II. Gorse entertained tha
P. B. O.'s and two guests at her home In
Falrmount avenuo Monday evening. Feb
ruary 15. All seemed to equally enjoy ths
lecture on "Decline in Art."
Chart Club drawing-rooms will be held?
Tuesday, March 1, at 11 a. m., by Mrs.
J. W. Teasdale, No. 3C6S Lindell boule
yard; the same day at 2 p. m. by Mrs.
Maria I. Johnseon at Washington Hotel,
and "Wednesday, February 2, at 11 a. m..
by Mrs. -g. W. Southworth at Hamilton
Hotel. 'Trench divisions, as usual.
An English woman. In a recent number
of the Outlook, in giving an account of
her travels in this country, says that the
most American thing she had seen was
the Woman's Club. Had she teen a visit
or of Carondelet on last Monday evening
she would have been more deeply Im
pressed with the triumph of her assertion.
On the evening mentioned the "Carondelet
Woman's Club" and their friends assem
bled at the lesidence of Mrs. Halne. on
Michigan avenue, for the purpose of ob
serving Washington's anniversary.
During the evening members and guests
were welcomed by-tha hostess, assisted;
by her 'daughters, Mmes. Bernard an4
Slow, also Mmes. Klnsey, Evans, Loktr
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