The St. Louis Republic. [volume], September 24, 1905, WOMAN'S MAGAZINE, Image 46

About The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919

Image provided by: State Historical Society of Missouri; Columbia, MO

                
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THE ST. LOUIS BEPUBLIC, STXXJAY, SEPTEMBEB.2 4, 1905. A
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New Corset
Covers
FRENCH IDEAS WHICH ARE
WORKED INTO A REMARK
ABLY ATTRACTIVE LOT
OF GARMENTS
01
XII of ;l.c best thins :.-oUt the i.ov French
corset oner is that a lot of tnein are cu.
!thiT hich in the neck.
That hat been thy gieat trouL. with
: i.i covers so far nearly ccry oire ha been
tit fj low as to be ugly, eo ne; of theni even coming
.clow the top of the corset, wh a high cor.-et is
rorn
I'-ually they ere full enough to allow for draw
ing up on ribbons, hut at their best that w one
(.'Text objection to them.
Sul that the new otic rrr high thev're auy
tni:: hut that but the curvo at the neck is broad.
rath'T than deep, drawing up in the same v.jy as
?.o- ot to h.w c. t. That difference make a
wonderful improvement.
l-:iiiiroiilery hand work. courst is more in
et Ii'i!i-- than ccr. if uch a thing U- possible. Ami
-..uem-ieiinc Ian the real Valenciennes I'r is
-m .thwlutclr mud over. Yet. u. most of t!.e new
thu.g, only the merest edge of lace is used, often
eli ntolv .cl under a imp! embroidered scr.Hop t
often the rather severe outline on exactly the an:c
prii.ciplc a a hit of lace or niching does the collar
of a Imhiw. Occasionally bits ci lace an set in. iu
unuMis!. interesting way . rhaps the merest
-tiap ct in in a cure like a crescent, one ede
tethered up to mal - the turn . nd set in !y being
whipped to carefully rolled odj,c.
Sometime quite elaborate designs arc resorted
. involved pattern of howknots. or of wonderful
'u" rilies. their antennae lo g delicate lines of rii
)!.:! ry. and onl the outline of their wide, grace
ful wit. us indicated by the lncc.
Hut the prettiest of all the work is hcml
!ubronlcr. wit': jint an edge of laec around m-d:
and arnihole. and pcrlnp- link-. woe. fine ones
appearing at unc.pccted mtc.val. resolving them
vlve omei.oiv into a harmoniously beautiful de
sign as a whole.
Orrasionuliv n eor-et eo-cr hut these .in th'
rare-t of all ! m.ide f strii of talent ienncs and
if heer while stuff--the uaterial shaped into
'wdge hupeil 1 i-. t so thiu the line.; tap-r to
ward the waist. iWtiecn the .iK-rtions of lace t!ie
iiinteri.il is I'U.Iiroideretl. anil perhaps the embroider.
trns off nij'o the l.T'e it'elf.
The trich uf joining the material and laec in
sertion together with a liii" of hrnd-cmbroidcry an
idea uhieh wat expressed on only the richest of
la-t pnng"- lingerie blouse ha been tried upon
lingerie, and is exquisite. I'ut it is ever so much
more work, r.hieh accounts for its sparing use so
far.
In petticoat, more interesting way of intro
ducing emhroiderv have been invented. The richest
of the H.ttieoat i a mas of real valcnciennes
narrow width ued. hut quantities of it. The flounce
is ery full, and th lace insertion strips it all the
way round, with eiery third ami fourth rows epa
rated, not like the rest, with narrow strips of ma
terial, hut with long triangles of it. each embroid
ered with three polka dot. A big one i in the wid
est pjrt. a smaller one shove, and above that, one
still mal!er. A bote the flounce polkn dots are in
troduced the ame way in thn-e sizes, the largest
just above the joining of the flounces.
Everything is handkerchief linen, or batiste, or
a hcer new- stuff that seems to le natnele. but ha
the same general characteristics it ia soft and
light and firm.
For larsre women, that is. for their coret cow
er, all three of these material arc too light, too
asily stretched out of shape, and even torn. For a
large woman ntcesarily prefers her corct covers a
littlr tight.
For them there's anoth-r weight of linen, made
if apparently as ..e threads n handker-hief linen,
but r close and firm as the other is sheer and deli
cate. It isn't quite o pretty, of coure. lut it is the
most satisfactory t-tuff eier invented, situ! can U
made into nttrnetive cover, if the tyle lc carefully
hofn. and not too much trimmed.
Xcarly .ill of tiie new cover- are made with
tail-piece circular bit, for the most part, u-bieh
H Bllki . B I V I ASH& I I I M ' M r W
g f IS p m .aV m. a' B
"vv ,SU i f!Ifi
take up the least room. Some of them are
cut in one piece from shoulder to hem and
hare the fnlnc about the waict got rid of
in dozens of little tucks, which end just belcw
the belt and supply the necessary folncss
over thrt hips.
nitb many cf the newest ones, the belt-
!tng tswut on underneath, instead of over.
the tucksJ
In nis
bUrown and dressing sacques a new. rich
toncn 1 ga
jed by the way embroidery is introduced
upon the
Metre not jnst ihe cuffs or ruffles, but
upon ttia upper parts of the Ieere.
i.Ute blouMs, dressing sacqucs and nightgowns
alikeave yoke, same ot thea ending in embrnid
credf scallops like and yet exquisitely unlike the
oldjlime yokes cf embroidery.
Like blouses, again, the sleeves are mctly
ejfcow length, but Ions; sleeve- ruffle, embroidered
in delicate design: like the rest, finish them.
Blind embroidery in its various forms I: per
haps best liked of all for lingerie, although brodcr:?
Anglaise holds its own splendidly. Seed-stitch that
tilling in of outlines with mere dots of stitches. i
more popular than tret. but. of course, only on the
nner sorts of things.
In wanner dr. .sing racquet and wrapper, the
prettiest are those of albatrcst, embroidered, like
lingerie styles, b-: in silk to match. White is par
ticularly good, and will bear doing up repeatedly.
But pink and blue and iLe softest of violets are
used. and. with a little care, do up. practically with
out fading.
Of course, then: are exquisite robes and wrap
pers of silk and the rtry prtttiest of all. those
of crepo de chine, embroidered in the same color.
But. unless jou can afford to keep them in the pink
of cleanliness, get a materiel that will wash.
Some of the prct:ie-t of the new bathrobes are
the simplest. 35-jj ?tylcs are alnict bewildering in
their variety. Khnoun are ?liut in a dozen forms
?nd a hundred materials it 3 style toj convenient
to Le discarded !:ghtly. Blanket wrappers, heavy
eiderdown rbe5. the most elaborate combinations
of silk and lace. looe and flowing there's crery
sort of thing to choose from, but the light-weight
wookn ones are most popular, unless you can have
two. a heavy and n light weight.
The lounging robe pictured lend itself to mak
ing in i-.ny weight material silk or heavy or light
cloth. The hands down the front and around collar
ami leevc rutSes may be made of a contrast ins;
materiel or color, or of ribboa. flowered or ficurcJ.
cr of a dark, rich shade of the same color. They arc
joined to the gown by faggot-stitching. (Pattern
C5S5.)
And so many of the new gowns require a per
fectly fitted linirg a thine some of us hate almost
lost ight of in the lat few j cars that the lining
modo! shown was designed as the simplest, casiest-to-f.t
form of it. (Pattern CJ53.)
Among Frerch handkerchiefs, mourning ;ty!e
are conspicuously full of style. On some the black
is applied only as a border, both border and linen
square of exquisite filmy stuff that seems to hare
almost a silky sheen.
And some bare embroidered on them odd low
ers end stronger conventions! designs, soase aa
evident outcosse of art aoareaa ideas with their
weird bcodiaas cf stems.
Some startling ilks are about, but they're only
startling at first sight, iM when their use is ex
plained. The whole width of the siL': is given over to
shaded effects of strong colors a regular rainbow
when it b st its brightest. Yet each piece of silk
dominate with one particular coloring. Ia a
Piece where soft rose sad yellow and broaat and
blue and violet, eaca is fairly reprcaeated, brown
tones seem to be the rifat solid color to eosabina
with it. With another piece, as great a nedley of
colors, n'olet naturally "beloags." aad so osw
Its ascf For millinery only, aad for that it's
atunnmp, aad the only possible cat when it esuld
be.
Poppy red relret ribboa baa beea oan of tha
fashionable hat triawiaaa all summer ia Paris.
How to Order Patterns
IVhtn ordering ptUerm, write name Mid
address, size mid number of pattern care
fully, using the following coupon:
Ordtra ailed by maiL Bavaral days twuailr rair"!.
Home Dressmaker Patterns.
(10 Cents Each.).
No. of pattern
Name
Street and Xo.
wtfjf
0af 14? .
Size of pattern
.mount inclosed I
Address:
Pattern De?a-tmeul,
The St. Louis Republic,
St. Louis, Mo.
Pattern No. 6581, corset cover, comes m
six sizes 32 to 42.
Pattern No. 6$$3, kming pattern, sin
sizes 32 f 42.
Pattern No. bfiSa. night dress to be
slipped on oxer the head), six sizes 32 to 42.
Pattern No. 6383, lounging robe, sin
sizes 32 and 42.
Pattern No. 6386, dressing sacqne, urn
sizes 32 to 42.
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