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THE ARIZONA REPUBLICAN, SATURDAY 3IOKMNU, MARCH 21, 11)08
. - t Jl a - . - . . - , .s&aVl .VrdL (cWli I ?W9tr' .-r C s Wi, r ? v Ct!r - - r , ; ji . ' y ' I " Ifl ".r'' y'r r r-rn v,3 - CreoJtion Kenn &nc EriglisK Walking Hat - Ostrick Plumes and Brilliant Fcatter Trim mings -FJ ower Hats for Spring ' Vie ' Ousanne ana ttc rrencny T womrn of fh nii;-fetMrl Tr r harniiT. lh KoilUh walking hxt ta.in v n im roiiRi!ert rnii!itiMt .loininc. al tftr.t tfi font otr il h.ipf I nsniti tn irnrn win lir wWim! to nuinr who Mr va!cly niieaTow! to anpt lhea-. !r lo ' th vnHotiK fnnk!Hb kinds uf -adcar In tozu for Ihc iit fw ya-A. The KiiKllvh walklns Inl In lis rTtvtl form la Jflrg and almoHt 1t:it-sliaip). fttr ih wldlj' rurrfMl ililf trl;na of 4qual inrn upward ahi-.oHt o the npri of ij Ulch rroM'ii, while the proj'tina nilft r aqunrand rhmel.T follow the onfii.-ie of 1h h'd. For wjlkinft and tiavvliug pjr poaea tu-b baia are hpat Utrrrloted In rongh atraw. their rrowna Landl with twlated Trtret or taffeta rlttn. nupple mitel tiy npwtatidlni: abort wlnga or (i plitni and perhapa brightened with two Inure-balMd fancy pins or wltb one of thoi ornamental hurtle wbl-h ner wholly go out of fsvur. They areaiau uaed la the fine -hlpa aod Milan braids, and eren In that moat atlra.-tlre of the aon'a military novelties, the moaaatraws. The latter are at their beat when wreathed with flower", although amongst the exceptionally smart walking hat( la a dealeo of Mack moss straw handed with black relvet ribbon and trimmed at the left aide with a fltTy cluster of black ostrich tip. Ostrich plumes and tips are nerer seen In the rear of fashion's inarch, for, whe afl ia aald In praise of norelty trlmmlnc. there la aothlnt quite equal to . ostrich jrace aod elegance. Single long plumes, clusters of abort ones and wreaths of tiny tips appear on many of t liner chips and leghorn, whether c the moderately slfed shapes accompanying afternoon street coatumes of those picture replicas which not Infrequently suggest the mush room brim, although with curtailed pro portiona. Some of these shape are decor ated solely with ostrich wreaths, which entirely conceal the crown, while other prown ha-e one aide plainly banded and sll the trimming piled npon the other. Cavalier hats auggestlre of tboae mads familiar to nae rla lbs pictures in novels dealing with awaabburkiing heroes har ten adapted to the feminine face wltb charming, results, and at the aame time ' practical, and their wide brlna. shading the brew, rolls boldly from the left back, tapering gradually toward the front. Aa such brims do not admit of the becoming velvet and aatln facing, the shapea are best rlev- -ped In rhip. They are trim med with as many ostrich plumes as the wearer of the bat may chance to okscsk or have means to acotrlre. In default of plumes, the -oq feathers make an exceed tiitfly 'Md auhstftute -In fuct. are more t-iwninendnlilc for ireneral going about, as they will withstand dampness. These cavalier shapes are worn alike by the well preserved mlddle-ased matron and the young girl just thudding Into woman hood, and It Ik ijulte likely tluit they wltl be one of the pupuiiir hats of the ensuing summer, ns they nre becoming to both the oval and the round type of face. Just as a wotidroua flurnl millinery dis play has convlu'ed the observer that es ottr and wild flowers of every hue and family are tn be used to the exclusion of all other trimmings, a sudden defiance of the Andnton Surlf'y la manifested by an array of bafa loiuled llh feathers. It Is sometimes difficult to recognize such familiar domestic fowl aa the duck, tur key and ben In their dyed plumage, for who has ever seen s lire ben with pink wings, s duck with violet breast or a turkey with s aapphlre blue tali? In addition to these domestic feathers, mil liners hare dispatched emissaries to the antipodes for birds of naturally brilliant plumage and unpronouncabl names, sucb as the Uuscamaya, or South American parrot, which furnishes marvelously varicolored breast and wings snd revers Ihle quills of dull bine snd red. These, like the other fanry feathers, are used principally npon the heavier and darker straws. Flower bats. howeTer, will be promi nent among the daintiest of those worn during the esrly spring, for they are typical of the Easter production, which Is still a venerated detail of feminine garh, despite the gibes of the newspapers and the mssculine finger of scorn. The Easter headgear or 19t8 will be of a fragile order, hut uot necessarily liable to induce pneumonia should that fesst day prove blustery. In most instances the crowns sre silk lined, as well aa thor oughly covered, h the substantial mil linery foliage of the rose, the arbutus, the laurel and the hydrangea. In plan ning a Dower bat it I well for the ama teur to remember that while ail colore accord In a flower garden, the contracted limits of a hat crown counsel discretion,' XZZZZV2T- LASS ' on Soalop Lines and that pals blue or pink or light brown simply swear nt light violet, which la alao impossible with any save the darkest of green. As heliotrope la so much the rogue as a dress accessory rather than for an entire costume, and quite a many violets as rosea are seen npon hats. It Is well to have a sufficiency of dark fo liage between the Tlvidly colored flower and the hat brim which la of any de cided ahade of brown, green, blue or red. A black or white hat. trimmed with rose or violets, would accord with a costume of any color, wltb most shades of brown may be worn blues or greens, pale pink and light blue with certain greens and with dark blues and deep reds, and almost any shade of rose with dull yellows, greens and burnt browns, while the fashionable gray, best known as London amokc, will stand almost any combluatiou ranging from black to white. One of the daintieat of the Rower crowned bats recently seen Is christened "Clarice." Ita moderately wide brim nar rowly escaped being a mushroom, as it Is depressed like a flower petal sll around, rolling slightly at the left side, near the front. The square crown Is entirely con cealed by the thickly growing leaves of the arbutus, among which a dark green ribbon wanders modestly, thus concealing Its joining with the brim, and on top of the crown above the brow is massed a cluster of pink roses Imbedded In hy drangea blooms. The hat Is upraised at the left side on a net-covere-1 bandeau. The aame shape Is developed In a wire covered lace, the brim being wholly of Italian or Irish lace, ita edging forming the frilly outer finish. The touch of black, which U rarely. lack ing In any gown or hat turned out by a French artist. Is seen in the lace snd net covered bats, trimmed chiefly with big, outspreading bowa of the aamu C'.my fabric, the crown being banded closely with slightly twisted biased folds of black velvet, a schemeof trimming which is especially eiTective where the lint wn-iid otherwise have been entirely of white. Many all-black hats will be worn with colored gowns Intended for ceremonious occasions, one chiefly of plumes, for Instance, Is vastly more; ef fective than a hat of a matching toiie which would not be becoming quite cloe to '" hair, from which the gown Is. of course, separated by the omnipresent white lace yoke and atork. or the feather and lace neck acarf. without whlcu no street costume ia quite complete. Frilla of lace are made up into fluffy rosettes and wreath rucbinga solely for hat trimmings, as in the case of a hat known to the young women who most favor it as the "Susnnne." Its shape is eminently suited to the rounded facia! outlines of youth, ns the straight nn lined rough straw brim Is Just a bit .severe and of equal width, slightly up turned nt back and front and set well back via a black velvet bandeau fitting closer, to tne crown of the bead. The proportions of the wide crown of me dlnra height are concealed by the plaited valcnclenn-a lace ruchlng, which completely encircles It. Joining at the left side heneat'a a clnster of roses rnd violets discreetly separated by foliage set close to the lower .edge of th crown and mlngllns with the ruchlng ss they trail backward, terminating in a large buncb of leaf embedded violets. Babeite," another girlish hat. Is Frenchy and coquettish and sets perkily npon tb crown of the head. The brim Is Ju.t sufficiently peaked over the br to vaguely suggest the pike, and dips ags'n at the sldea to repeat the peaking prxees st the bark, hut there are no strlnri to conceal the contour of the face. Instead of being lined, the brlui ede bt piped with sutln to match the alpiue-shuped crown swathed with soft folds, against which is set s frill of four sccordlon plalteJ chiffon. Ince-edged ruffles, and pcd ngaiust the left side of the crown is a mass of roses, violets. Illncs or what ever Bower may catch the wearer's fancy. February holds the record as the month In which the largest number of children are born; June Is that In which there are the fewest births. The Hat and tne Coiffure. Variation of the F.aatllsh Walklaar Hat. Stnnnlng street hat. developed In the novelty moss straw snd shaped decidedly on the lines of the once popular English walking type, with wide, curved side brims upturned against a bl'b-peaked crown, the front and back enda df the hat being almost square and fitting close ly to the head. The crown Is draped shout Its base with rolled biased black ve'vet. with the left brim looped sgainst s cluster of fluffy guumctal ostrich pinnies and fastened with a large gitnmetsl buckle. The hair is waved over a wire roll at the front, hack and sides, and tne crown la dressed with loosely rolled puff and cnris. liuumetal tailored clotb i-oat. with bls-k velvet col'sr and vet ciu broliiered with gnnrr.eial soutache and worn over white lace waist, appliqued wita white sl't. . Xevr cav-aller Plelare Hal. A young girl's hat of fine white chip, with wide brlni dipping at left side and rcr'ns Uroailiv at back, tapering gradu at'v owrd right of front. The medimii hlgh cr..wn : trimmed with dark brown velvet "ii'ion. witii long wine loops at left aid- 'i? on risht side covered with liite- of whl; and brown coq plumes of varies, l"ct'o. the snorter ones at the f rort ii.Mt -Ides and the longer fall ing over the t-rown and the brim. The tnir Is parted l-i the center and slightly waved over small roll at sides nnd, hack, the crown dressed with coronet braid. The "Clarice." A mertlm:' sited Italian lace hat Mint over a Hire fraiu. The depressed brim, slightly curving from left to front ceii er. U ccvere-1 Inside and out with the vMte la-e. t!i- edes coming together to 'orni the outer '.-ill of brim. The square c is n is lnno.l r!h ro-colored velvet i "boil and entirely covered with trail ing arbutus lea-es and. blossoms. At the ft fruit a large cluster of pale pint roses is Imbed 1-d In while hydrangeas. Te L.'lr is rcinpadoured at front and sid-s end slightly curling over brow. Bla-x chiffon Jompcr. trimmed with an pllq led -dark n:. worn over white Ital ian lac biouse. The "Saisaae." Et...iei?lT smart hat of rotgh. nat nrnl colored" straw, with medium wide, straight, nnllned brim, slightly curving UDJrard at front and back. The square crwn Is wreathed with close ruchlng of ai ordlon plaited white Valenciennes lace. Joining at the left sld with a clnster of white roses snd white violets with their foliage, which extend toward the back of the hat. where thy terminate against the crowu with a smnil cluster of white vio lets. Greek coiffure, knotted beneath the hat crown. , The "Babetle. A rough black atraw hat. somewhat on poke bonnet lines, the narrow brim Is slightly peaked at front and bark and drooping at sides; Its edg piped with a narrow roll of porcelain blue satin. To peaked crown is draped with blue satin and surrounded with qnadrnpl rnclilue of lace-edged aocnrdion-plaited white chilfon. with a flower plume of tiny pale pink rosebuds at left side, the pale green stems ahnwliig at base and the smaller buds falling over crown top. Coiffure arranged low over brow and broad at sides of head, tu crown dressed with Innumerable loosely rolled curls. Spanish Vonien m Their Homes l.ntk of winter oemfnrt can l h"rne " with composure by PpanUh women, who. for a few weeks'. at t. si cut n front their auntiv l'Vcn'e and verandas. Servant worr.es In Spii'n sre reduced to a minimum, uot bceii4e liie domestic clsss Is an Ides I one. lo:t for the rensou that nothing very exalted is expected of it. Kemiits are tnkeu les seriously, and allowed fuller plsr of those impulses tiat nra! to tl:eir youih and class. fcpenish servants -sing over titeir work a a matter of courvc. As the wash In the coiirtjr.rd. they talk frelv over the wail with neighboring timid of the 1ui. tl e.r tuUtreses' proxiuilti 011 tiie bal cony iieli.g no hindrance in outburats of merriment. As regards their wardrobes geno-sdir. "panish women, unless their mentis are good, do not concern theinsel'. es with the latest styles. A r-a!!j good Mick si's, whl'-h cBn b" warn at church and cD ocratlnna of cere mofiy. satisfies mothers and daughier "ten ipcomeji are small. Fven as a bf.4. 1c a country town. girl wlil wear black silk for the rel gioot cere mony. 8 whita veil nnd wreath being th only relief. If I at a marriage ceremony that one res: Iret the highly emotional temperament of Spaaish women. Tbey all. relatives snd friend alike, weep copiously through out aad choke with sLa when the bride at the end of tb service greets ei. U with Blmiwlbg eyes. The rsvtrli tlua tli. t ait plaied un the IHvthed In 8;sln are tn themselves pro. uetlve of many a cava Her art. The chaperon takes her charge to the caltie dral door on a "Teats." but tbla does not prevent the lover from some dark recess trapping forth and spreading his cloak for the fair opt to step oq. Ir Midnd. Barcelona and other large c'S' snopping la a favorite pastime, lint lu the provinces It ia nsual to snd the servant to ask .the shopkeeper to send some goods for lnepectin:i st borne. Choice ia then a leisurely proceeding, friends often being pre ent, who share in' tbe pleasure of handling and couipar lug pieity ribbone and silks. . Calling In tpalu bmtles with ceremony. When a first visit is paid the hostess says at parting: "Your honor has taken possession or your house, for all I have is yours." 1 If anvthliig during tile coll is admired, the remark follows et mice "It Is lit your disposal." The answer to which must be. "I hope ny hostess will enjoy It for many years." When means allow of It. a wo-risn has her box at the theater. In this the s'ene between th nets oftn resenililex In at home. hl at the end of the pay visiting is carried on for an hour or more while tbe audience It nominaKy awaiting carriages. Girls for the most pnrt are educated In the convents, and if the curriculum In these Is not of the kind that wins scholarships it is at least one which makes women good Judges of mnaic, painting, the drama, of poetry, snd the antique In regard to lares, eiubrolderlek and tapestries. Spain, for all that some adjudge It to be a uallon ppxird :o progress, tako a firat place lu art. and when a lonniry does this It la proof that lis nomen have a standard and a.e provided with an education whbh derelops all our Oner l.i stlnrta. A" woman's vote can be beard tn a balloon at a height of two miles, while a man's voice cannot be heard at 1 greater distance than on mil. l-i i 1 jv ll: : :u jw l:X Hovel ty Lmbroidered Stocking oond. Potent LeaJtKep Pum ps XGoJthcr Sound Tamp Gun ITeteJ. -Kid With Small hetJhepSovr With 3tedkin3. To Hoick nUWlUMil-: hi ti e v.i: !.l are s'u4 r y r-et mure comfortably and daii.'.liy shod tli mi In Amerti'H. aud siu.e the a. .tit. led fur gui'nl street wear, women are inure Ihnu ever giving atu-ution to the appearnuce if their feet and ankles and expending upon their prote.tl'-u aud adornment sums of moz.ey which a few years ago would bare seemed absurdly extravagant. Most practical among the low shoe to lie worn for general going about during the ensuing spring and summer are the puirps slkli, bn.ia won a reputation for decreasing tbe apparent size of the feet, have remained In faror from season tu senaou for the past five jcuiB. with but slight changes In their geuernt lines. The newest ones hare toes - slightly more pointed than were those of last year, but to offset this the wiu1 n across the ball of the foot has slightly lnci essed. promising additional comfort where, in warm weather, at least, it is most generally appreciated. The soles are lieTelled and s'ightiy pro leeting. the hl a crosi betweeu the military aud Cthan rredfis, EPd ft lnocleme bi-lglit, ud tbe narrow biased leather strap which outlines th tippers terminates at the .Instep baae with a small two-looped leather bow. The best, meaning the most practical, walking pumps, are of pebble kid In black, al though tbe woman who prefers to hare her shoes match ber gown usually selects pumps of brown, dark blue or gnn metal as tbe case may be. Gibson ties on th blocher orrVr which sre far and away the more comfortable for worrea afflicted with high Insteps are provided with substantial solos which do not. however, project, wither narrowly pointed toes, long vauips aud the com posite inMItary Cuban heel. Their prin cipal fenture la the hlg corded silk rib bon bow running through two large eye lets and spreading far over the Instep and vamp, .thus reducing the apparent lepgttt of tbe foot. They come chiefly la the aofter kids and are all in one color like the more practical pumps. The mannish Oxfords which some wo men affect for walking purposes have the common aense attributes of the foot gear provided for the sensible stronger sex. popularly supposed to be superior to iousorlal vanities, are to be found chiefly in black and the various sbadea uf brown and tan g osse kid and pebble goat, slthongh occasionally there are seen precise duplicates of the masculine typ of patent kid Oxford with light cloth uppers' which not only render the foot lonspieuons, hot make It seem larger than It need. Cloth topped Oxfords are nndenls'oly more comfortable than are those of kid or leather daring the first warm spring days w-hea tbe feet are recovering from the dire effects of over-shoes and are opt to 1e either swollen or tender. P.ut for wet days, a cloth-topped shoe sbonld te discarded In favor of one entirely of pelt, as the cloth retains the moisture, and if any dnst baa been allowed to accumulate In the fabric the top is certain to. be hopelessly discolored. For pretty, slender femlntue feet, there is no type o" shoe nmr becoming than the I'olouial. with Its long tongned vsmp and big buckle. Tbey come ill pebble, glosse and patent kin. and tuay quite properly be worn on the street, although they look equally well wltb a bouse dress. Doeskin boots have been found so com fortable by tnosn who adopted them last winter that It Is small wonder that th demand for them In low-ent shoe has been large. Tcey sre usns,l!y on tbe laced and bowed Gibson mde) and are prefer able in metal or tan, as black -and brown and blue are easily discolored. Doeskin pumps and colonial frequently have wooilett heels, kid-covered, which are not desirable for general walking purposes, as the feet soon beconm fatigued, espe cially in a toira where the hard, unyield ing heela atrlke upon paremcuta equally inflexible. Women with weak ankles aud a ten dency to Cat or broken down tmvtep would best eschew low-cut walking shoes at all seasons of the year In f.imr of the half high boots, which are made on the aame lasts as are lite Gibson, bincber and pump styles, but provided with light weight kid tops reacting a trifle above the ankle. Stockings, of course. Invariably match the olor of the accompanying; shoe or pump, and that they may not soon fade shou'd be of spont.lfc or I'sle, bleb will ontwear a dozen of the cheaper grade cf hosiery. For early spring silk will be found sdvlsable for use with !?w-cut shoes of all kinds, ns even the thinner weaves are infinitely warmer than lisle, which la a northern climate should be reserved principally for midsummer coro f;rt. Most stockings of the finer grade show more or less instep and ankle em broidery. The black ones being embroid ered in Dresdenlike flowers or in tlry polka dots In the porcelain bine shades, the dark blues are embroidered wltb email rosebuds and forget uie-nota. and the tana and gi-.umetals with white or black. For use wltb the black, bine, dark green and gunmetal Gibson ties, which demand a rather more ele '-ete style of hosiery than do those of pebble goat, ar lisle ai d s.lk stockists of similar shades, embroidered heavily with wreaths of tiny flowers In natural colors with their foil age, but always so arranged as to glv th long lines about the ankle, which lends the slender effect, for no matter what may be the weight of her dimples, no woman Is expected to display thick aojie.