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THE ARIZONA REPUBLICAN, FRIDAY MORNING, JUNE 4, 1909. W7 IB THE RINGS DRESS TASTE IN THE ACCESSORIES THE MARK OF DISTINCTION THERE come times when it seems necessary to concentrate the mind on the fact that Rood dressing is largely an individ ual matter. With any radical change in style-outline (silhouette, the French people aptly call it) it is well to con sider your figure take a personal stock account, as it were realizing the good lir.es . which must be retained and any undesirable features that may be dis guised or improved. The beginning of the spring season vas beset with rumors that were most disquieting, proclaiming the vogue of the extreme and iniposible. It really was not worth while to fret ov-r the matter, for good sens-;, like trjth, is mighty and must prevail. When vie are threatened with the loss of the waist-line, the time for serious consid - eraiion has come. As a matter of fact, the spring styles are cause for self-congratulation. paTtiy because less material is required in the i.-aking. and the coinbhiations of mate rials afford the most satisfactory condi tions for remodeling. The vogue of the separate coat is another feature that will cp'ieal for many reasons. The costume with skirt and waist corresponding or cut in princess, or united by the girdle that makes the princess effect, appeals especially strongly to the woni2n of ma ture years, to he.ri the separate waist always seemed lacking in dignity. Important Acceaaoriei It is in the accessories of costume that, many novelties are presented this Q I DDI be carefully fitted and as close at the sides as possible, and' when, as now, fashion demands a ruche finish, it should be narrow and flat. For the woman with a slender neck there are many fascinat ing neck pieces, and practically all of them may lie produced, at home. A lace band with a ruche oh both edges is a favorite form, and a finen band with a narrow plaiting of lawn or line linen at the upper edge and a wide plaiting at the lower, is immensely becom ing to a young face. i l hese are called nuns collars. The lower plaiting may deepen into a point at the front and is at least four inches deep at the sides and back. Deep lace frills at the wrist are revived for both dress and coat sleeves, a fashion that should be welcomed for its good effect on the hand. Naturally, their use in the latter case will be conlined to fancy coats; they would be rather out of place in sleeves of a severely plain tailored coat. These severely plain has this finish, and in the arrangement of the sash is no inconsiderable part of the gown's, effect. It becomes in some cases practically a drapery. Of a num ber shown at a Fifth Avenue shop re cently two-were studied as representative specimens. ' The simpler of the two was made of black ribbon velvet. Several rows (ac cording to the width of the girdle) are laid in plaits and tacked to the boned foundation. Two ends, cf unequal length, are then tacked at the left side 'under a loose knot of the ribbon. The ends are gathered together and finished trimming features apart from their as sociation with the sash. Tassels and pendants of all kinds are used made of silk, cord, braid, or, as in this case, the material of the' garment - Buttont a Feature of tho doming Stylei Buttons grow rather than decrease in favor, and are used alike on waists, skirts or coats. ' The wooden mold is the usual foundation, though' if a dif ferent shape (a square, for instance) is wanted, the foundation may be cut from stiff cardboard. The round shape is most popular and is well liked framed tion that is designed and made lor each gownindividually. Harmony taa Secret of EffetlTenU In gathering together the materials for a. gown, harmony, not contrast, is the idea to bear in mind. While differ ent tones of one color may be employed to advantage, no second color enters the composition this season, except in tiniest touches in the trimmings. In the matter of favorite colors, darker shades have the preference, and black, either alone or in combination with white "Magpie combination," it is GIRDLES &' BUTTONS AMONG THE SEASON'S NOVELTIES quantity of late and other white stuff in their making. . Black gowning generally has the dual advantage of distinction and economy. The well-planned black gown will look well for every occasion, yet not insist ently proclaim itself as a color may. No matter what the gown's color may be, hard lines at face sind hands are to DDI OBI 30- I DO taa n DC ooc IP- jfax'Z h A IU E T rii . ft. ,VM , a mad -A a I -.mm t j ! '4ml . .If 1 !: HI .1 ' ml l 1 1 ill I ll 1 I, lit I i i - j a ZEl ' " 1 .1 i . ln-il - rSZ aoc DOC goods those with a satin finish are most popular. BaahM for Kitaet' Sreues Sashes for misses' dresses require the boned girdle support for the benefit of the beautiful ribbons that are used. The doubling-over, stringy process would mean too great sacrifice. Ritbons are ft u- i r , f , ,; w: -y ;i-A, tl'! a a ,aa oac aoc ?hy.f:-v ill O )Ofl A ROSE-COLORED BROADCLOTH SUIT, SHOWING THE NEW COLLAR NET TRIMMED LINEN SUIT A ROW OF BRIDAL SLIPPERS ONE OF THE NEW BLOUSES RECENT DESIGNS IN HAIR ORNAMENTS TAILORED LACE COAT WITH GRAY SILK EDGING season, and they all have a distinctive bearing on up-to-date dress. One might almost consider them of greater impor tance than the gown itself. Neck and waist dressings show the greatest nov elties ; ruches of every descrrption would seem to permit a choice for everyone, though they are best suited to slender necks and faces; a wide ruche especially has a tendency to impart to a full face a cup-and-saocer effect that is not en tirely pleasing. Neck dressing that shall be becoming Is a trying problem to the possessor of a short, plump neck. The collar should coats, semi-fitting atid neatly tailored, are by no means driven out by the more elaborate models, with trimmings, revers and even sashes. This plain coat has made a place of its own, even in Paris, where it is known as the "American coat." Th Cominff In of tbo Glrdlo It is the girdle with sash ends that will be most gladly received of all the newer accessories, and its use will go a long way toward transforming a last season's gown. Almost every gown turned out by a first-class dressmaker with a silk tassel The other girdle was made of white satin and is intended, of course, for evening wear. The bias girdle portion is shirred over cords that cross its width at spaces of about five inches, and tacked to the foundation. The sash is draped high on the right side of the girdle and knotted to fall loosely over the skirt on the left side. There are two smaller features in this girdle that are of interest One is the ball tassels knotted from satin-covered cord, and the other is the large satin- covered button that apparently secures the sash to the girdle. Both are strong in a plaited frill of ribbon or silk. The buttons are quite large and as a trim ming have something of a medallion effect Fringes, tassels and pendant orna ments of all sorts, when judiciously used, are good. Satin-covered cord is used in much the same manner as braid, which it frequently replaces; What is called a home-made look, applied as a term of disapprobation to a gown, may, in quite another sense of the 'word, be applied to most-attractive trimmings and ornaments. There certainly must be originality to commend the ornamenta- called promises to become very popu lar. A black gown has distinct value and a place in every wardrobe, even when light colors are preferred. There is a prejudiced idea that black is unbecoming to a woman of advanc ing years, but there is really no founda tion for this notion; quite the contrary, in fact. No matter what the color of the gown, its treatment, at the neck de termines its effect upon the face. That is why the chemisette and small yokes of lace or soft white chiffon have estab lished themselves so firmly, and the newest neck pieces show an increased be avoided. If all-black mourning pre cludes a white finish, the line must be softened by using a transparent material. Though there is, perhaps, not quite an equal variety of ready-made ruchings in black, it is not a difficult matter to make just what ore wants, and the home laundering qualities of cravenettcd crepe and veiling should be remembered. Of course, the dullest of black gros-grain ribbon or silk must be used for the girdle of such dresses, though ordinarily satin is preferred. It is, by the way, something of a satin year. It is made up into entire gowns, and in woolen likely to play a prominent part in dress j this spring and summer. Many of the floral effects are exquisite. Some wide sash ribbons show these rich blossoms i on a background of woven gold threads. This savors rather too much of paint ing the lily"; the flowers in delicate col ors on white or lightly tinted ground seem in better taste. The girdle is tacked to its foundation and the bow and ends tacked in place, the fastening being made by hooks and eyes. A sash prepared in this way will last many times as long as one that is drawn about the waist and tied CARE OF THE HAIR Simple Methods to Preserve and Beautify It THE care of the hair is a great and important subject, since the care varies with the indi vidual . The condition of the hair is often an index to the health. Ii it becomes thin, dry, and falls out, as a general thing the person needs a tonic, the health is below, par. It ifi aairi that tfii lif nf 9 Vair from two to six years, and that one can lose on an average fifty to sixty hairs a day. That I think is a large number. Anxiety in regard to the hair is aroused when it commences to fall out. The average man lives in terror of becoming bald, a fate that usually overtakes him. A great German authority writing re cently on the subject of baldness, says that it can be combatted successfully if treatment is begun as soon as the hair is seen to begin to fall. ProTentUr Bp'lnau ' "Frequent shampooing and rubbing the head is the best preventive of bald ness." He even recommends daily shampooing with soap and hot water This is to be followed by an applica tion of one to one thousand solution f bichloride ' of mercury. When this evaporates the scalp is rubbed with a one to four hundred solution of thymol or napl.tliol in alcohol, after which he uses an ointment of one part of salicylic acid, two -of tincture of benzoin and fifty of vaseline, which is rubbed into the roots of the hair.- In obstinate cases the treatment is begun by the applica tions of tar liniment, which is removed by soap ten minutes later. Shampooing' . . You observe that our great German authority recommends daily shampooing. Once a month, most hair-dressers will tell you. A better guide is the condi tion of the hair. If it becomes oily and sticky, it should be shampooed at once. Most hair needs shampooing oftener than four weeks. If the hair is dirty, the hair follicles are stopped up, the nourishment of the hair is impaired and it will fall out. The hair gets dirty the same as a garment. How quickly this can occur is shown by white hair, which has to be frequently washed to look properly cared for. The basis of most of the shampoos recommended for the hair is an egg. Some use only the white of the egg, others claim that the yolk is better, as its chemical constituents are especially needed by the hair. The egg should be beaten op in a cupful of water, to which has been added a tcaspoonful of green soap and a teaspoonful of alcohol or cologne. This can be poured over the hair and rubbed into the scalp with the fingers. Th Vtt of a Broab. It is better yet to use a brush which comes for shampooing or a toothbrush. in default of one with longer hairs. Cart the hair in Strips about a half or two-thirds of an inch apart and scrub the scalp with the shampoo mixture This is a good way to remove dandruff, and the action of the brush on the scalp stimulates the circulation. After having gone thus thoroughly over the scalp, wash the ends of the hair with the shampoo mixture and then rinse the soap out of the hair thoroughly with hot water, afterwards using colder water, until at last it is quite cold. The action of first the very hot water and then the very cold is good to stimulate the blood-vessels. Dry the hair as quickly and thoroughly as possible, so as not to take cold. Dry it near the register, heater or fire, and hasten the process with hot towels, or trie use ot palm-leaf tans Vataare I am asked about massage of the scalp and how one can apply it. While' the shampooing can be done by oneself it is much pleasanter to have it performed by someone else. The same is true of scalp massage : but then tt will not be done sufficiently often to be of much practical benefit. If you do it every time you comb your hair, you will obtain some results from it. If you live in a large city w here such things are dene, it is well to take a treatment or two in order to better understand the process. You should use the tips of the fingers, the pulps, so to speak, of each hand, applying them first as close as possible to the scalp, then with a circular motion, while still pressing firmly on the scalp, go over the entire scalp, so that the blood will be brought to the roots of the hair. Superficial rubbing does no good, and is apt to rub the hair out by the roots. Brushing the hair is of little benefit, and sometimes is quite the contrary, as it drags the hair out It is much better to use the finger tips in the manner de scribed. It is supposed that baldness is due to microbes, which can be carried from one head to another by means of combs, brushes and by the fingers of those who make a profession of giving scalp massage. All combs and brushes should be kept scrupulously clean. One should always take her own when going to a nair-aresser. TJilnj Hair Tonics What is a good! hair tonic? The selec tion of anything to be applied to the scalp for the benefit of the hair requires judgment If the hasr is oily and sticky it does not need more grease, but rather something of a drying nature, such as has a good deal of alcohol in it. The quinine hair tonics , are good for such cases. If the hair isi dry and feels dead. the crying need is grease. Crude yellow vaseline is much used for this purpose. A little b taken on the finger and rubbed into the roots. This prevents the mass of hair from getting sticky. A good way to apply grease is to use the oil cans used for sewing ma chines. The vaseline has to be made thin by beating oil into it. Almond oil or olive oil can be used for' this purpose; Lanolin is also. used for thei roots of the hair mixed with vaseline and oil. It is too sticky to be used by itself. the long nozzle of the oil can makes the application of the oily mixture to the roots of the hair easier, as it can be in troduced to the scalp and the oil reaches the roots without oiling the hair itself, i If the scab is white. and the roots of the hair seem dead, and the hair is falling out in quantities, one of the best things to stimulate the scalp and provoke a growth of hair is jjie tincture of can-tharides. Valno of Cantharlda Used in full strength, it would prob ably blister most scalps. To avoid this, it should be diluted with water to a half or a third of its strength. It is not pos sible to give definite directions, as the tenderness of the scalp vanes so greatly with different people, but it should be used as strong as one can without blis tering. It should be applied to the roots of the hair every day or every other day according to the effect of the application. If the scalp is very red and irritated one should wait before making another application. It is better to use it in this way by itself than to add it, as is so often done, to the hair tonics, for then the strength can be regulated as well as the length of time of its use. Castor Oil Castor oil is often recommended for hair-tonics or incorporated in them. It is no better than the oily substances al ready mentioned, and its odor makes it unpleasant. In those cases wnere the hair is fall ing alarminglv, shaving the scalp is re sorted to. and undoubtedly with much benefit. The hair is shaved several times. or until marked improvement is shown. before it is allowed to grow again. , I he annoyance of a wig or wearing a cap is very great; the head becomes heated, and it is a fact that the hair should be exposed freely to the air. HURRY-UP BREAKFASTS For a Two-Hole Gas-Stove KENT No. 1 SELECT the latest drying of evap orated peaches and soak over night in water sufficient to cover. Cook in the same water in the double boiler until soft, then sweeten to taste and add a few drops of lemon juice. Evaporated peaches, like primes, should be cocked a day or two before wanted. The mush which was left over from a former breakfast, pourxl into a flat dish and kept in the refrigerator, should be cut in nea: strips and either dipped in flour or betten egg and milk. It will not sputter whichever wiy it is pre pared, and may be fried, in butter or lard as preferred, to a colden brown. It should be eaten hot with butter and maple syrup. - After the mush has browned put the toaster ever' one flame and the frying pan over the other. Cut off the heads aiid tails of the Yarmouth bloaters and split down the middle. Put a table spoonful of butter in the frying-pan and put the fish, flesh side dowrward. in this. As it is already smoked :t only needs to warm throjgh. Then lay in a hot dish, flesh side uppermost, dct with but ter, pepper slightly and pour on each one a teaspoonful of boiling water. Cut the bread for the torst thick, trim off the crusts, turn fi-ecucntly while toasting so that the slices will not be come dry, and butter generously, piling one slice on top of the other and cover ing closely to keep soft until eaten. HEKtT No. I Don't slice your bananas, nor yet serve them whole. Have them very cold and take off a strip lengthwise, leaving the pulp revealed in a long yellow basket This is to be scraped with a teaspoon and so eaten; and, take my word for it, until you have tried this mode you will never know how good a banana can taste. This is also a more wholcsoipe way to eat the fruit than any other. Allow two and' one-half cupfuls of boiling water to three heaping table spoonfuls of yellow cornmeaL Salt the water; mix the meal to a rather liquid pate with cold water and stir by spoon fuls into the wat -, which should be boiling fiercely ir the inner saucepan of the douhle boiler. It will thicken at once, and if it is very stiff a little more boiling water must be added. Then put . the saucepan in the under saucepan. of boiling water and let cook while you prepare the other dishes. First make some thin toast for the mince, buttering the slices and putting them on the .erving-dish under the stove. If you are keeping hou.se you will nrobably have cold roast becf,: beef steak cr mutton on hand, which can be passed through the meat-chopper and used ; otherwise, purchase a pound of I Iamburg steak ; do not have it chopped very fine and be sure it is made from : tender meat free from gristle. Fry with j onions and serve on toast.