Search America's historic newspaper pages from 1777-1963 or use the U.S. Newspaper Directory to find information about American newspapers published between 1690-present. Chronicling America is sponsored jointly by the
National Endowment for the Humanities and the Library of Congress. external link Learn more
Image provided by: Arizona State Library, Archives and Public Records; Phoenix, AZ
Newspaper Page Text
i : V - Y THE ARIZONA REPUBLICAN, FRIDAY -MORNING, JANUARY 01, 191f. PAGE NINE ENTIRELY NEW FEATURES IN THESE SMART DESIGNS Some Attractive Outfits for ihe Mid-Winter Season that can easily be made by the Home Dressmaker pi'i iiftpn , mAm fciiS Mw,ff' llP lll 1; l 'B jjjj 'v. ' wl f n f ALL cutaway effects are smart for the late winter and between seasons wear. Coats are fin ished with rather big revers that allow the most effective use of contrasting material. This design (fig. i). includes a narrow collar that is novel and oddly thaped cuffs. In the illustration, the .material is ratine with trimming of broadcloth and velvet; the combina tion is an excellent one, for each fabric terves to enhance the beauty of the other. The same model will be found excellent for the early spring costume that many women already are planning and the useful suit to be worn on the trip South. Ratine is a fashionable material and a good one, but there are numberless suitings that are appro priate. Rough finished materials are having jreat vogue for general wear; broadcloth is always handsome and makes a good choice for the suit to be taken to a warmer climate. The .arrow button-holo rffe.-t is very fash ' ionable now. THE skirt (fig. i) that gives a panel effect is one of the very newest and smartest; includes sectional panels, the lower portions are plaited, allowing freedom of move ment, while the straight, narrow lines are maintained. The combination of ratine with broadcloth is admirable, but the effect can be varied greatly ; when a contrasting material is chosen for the panels. Both velvet and satin are being used as trimming on cloth; 'rough materials are combined with plain and many ;heavy ? ilks are beinj utilized for entire street costumes. There are 'two main portions of the skirt which are lapped onto the panels and the clos:n? is made Invisibly .t the left side. The finish can he mads it either the hi jh or the natural waisc- Figure I. Figure 2. Figure 3. Figure 4. line. This is an excellent model to keep in mind for linens. THE separate shirt-waist is a necessary garment. The . one shown in figure 2 is especially attractive. Just now a great many women are making shirt-waists up in readiness for the coming sea son as well as for the present. There is a yoke across the back of this model and the sleeves are cut in one with it, while the fronts are full and joined to the yoke. The sleeves are long and are finished with deep cuffs. The frills are much worn, are made of dotted muslin, while the waist itself is made of hand kerchief linen. If desired, the frills can be omitted or be attached under the box plaits. Another new and pretty material is lisle crepe. It is so"t and becoming and is quite serviceable as well. THE skirt that Is made with a few plaits is new and smart. This one (fig. 2), is iovel far there are two plaits t the left of the front and twa at the right the back, while the revere aides are plain. The piaits give ilender lines to ihe figure ar.J at cho same tima allow gracefur walking. Th-s design :s as desirable for liner, and pique1 as for wool suitings) and :s handsome made from the silks that we utilize for cos tumes of all styles just now. In the illustration, the skirt is finished with a belt at the natural waist-line, but a great many women find the slightly lifted line becoming; it can be cut high and arranged over webbing if preferred. The closing is made be neath a plait and is invisible. This style skirt is especially suitable for simple blouses. LONG sleeves and round necks make one of the features of the winter and a great many gowns for indoor occasions are made in that way. This waist (fig. 3), can be made either with a shirred chemisette that is cut on the round line or . with a plain chemisette that is made high. The revers that overlap the collar are effective bit not necessary, and, if a plainer garment is wanted, the collar only can be vsed as finish. The tucks across the front give the suggestion of drapery that is so much liked, while the long slezves are laid in box plaits at the wrists and are finished with ocdly shaped cuffs. The elbow sleeves are simp!y gathered into bands. There is a lining which is carefully fitted, while the aisc gives the fashionable loose etToct. Irish crochet, macreme or point de Venice lace is pretty for trimming. . - DRAPED skirts always are grace ful and attractive, while they are exceedingly fashionable. This one (fig. 3), can be made in walking length or with a slight train and be finished with a belt or cut a little above the normal waist-line, all of which possibilities make it available for many .materials and for many needs. The front and sides are cut in one piece and the back forms a separate panel that is lapped upon the front. There is just a slight full ness at the waistline that is pretty and becoming. The skirt is an excep tionally graceful and becoming one and has the great merit of being very easy to make. It will be found de sirable for all materials that are soft enough to drape successfully. In the large picture, it makes part of a cos tume that is made of brocaded crSpe. All fashionable materials . are soft, however. Foulard. cripe de Chine, charmeuse and the soft silks are lovely in the new blue, rose, amber and taupa shades. V YOUNG girls always like jaunty little coats. They suit their needs and are becoming. Thn one (fig 4). is for girls and small women. It is made with slightly cutaway front9 and with a pretty back that is plain on one side and overlapped at the other. In tha illustration, it is made of velvet and is worn over a skirt of satin that is plaited by machine. The costume is a very attractive one for afternoon visits and makes a good suggestion for between seasons wear. In place of the velvet, satin or silk could be used with collar of contrasting ma terial or contrasting color. In this case, the collar and revers are made of broadcloth which is beautiful with either velvet or satin. The coat can be utilized for the entire costume as well as for wear over a separate skirt and would be pretty made from any suiting material, or it could be made of rough material trimmed with plain or of plain with rough to give a good effect. PLAITED skirts are among the features for the winter. This straight style (fig. 4), can be utilized in many ways. It can be made from charmeuse or from li ht weight serge and laid in inch wide flat plaits and worn with a coat as illustrated. Thin material accordion plaited is suitable for afternoon and evening wear. The model can be left plain or be trimmed. It can be made full length or be cut off and joined to a deep yoke, which is closed at the left of the front; the overlapped edge is straight or scalloped. Both the high and the natural waistline are given. A jaunty costume is shown in the illustration, having the coat of black satin and the skirt of gray charmeuse. Gray, by the way, is a new spring color. WRAPS are sumptuously beau tiful this year. They are made of the softest velvets, of the new plush that is light in weight and soft to the touch, of satin or of lace over satin, of everything that is rich, everything that is exquisite. As a safe general rule, they are draped and the draperies are caught in round the front to give a curved line. That they hamper free movement is true beyond a doubt, but they are pretty to look upon and one does not walk much in an opera wrap. Ermine is a favorite fur for collars and cuffs, but a great many of the bright-colored coats and white wraps are trimmed with black, skunk and fox being favorites for this use. Wide, ample sleeves are the rule and, for the most part, they are cut in one with the coat in the kimono style that is so difficult to outdo. Some of the most distinctive models suggest the dolman idea, but they are not the dolmans that we once knew, for the sleeves are an integral part of the coat. In some curious way, however, the coat may be cut, it drapes the figure when closed and the drapery draws in at the front. A great deal of rose color and a great deal of amber have been seen, while coats of white or ivory brocade have been numerous. Blue, too, is conspicuous and almost every beau tiful color as well as every beautiful material is utilized. An exceedingly handsome wrap of the simple, loose sort is made of rich black plush with trimming of white" fox anda wide band of white velvet brocaded in gold. The fine fur materials make lovely wraps. They can be trimmed with a con trasting fur to be more effective. SIMPLE fabrics, many of them, are showing stripes and a very charming one is of white crSpe with a narrow stripe of white velours. Another is voile with tiny stripes of ratine in colors and these colored stripes are outlined with thread of black. Two of the most exquisite novelties are cotton brocaded velours and what is known as zag-zig bor dered voile. The zag-zig is just about what its name suggests, woven from threads of graduating size, alter nating thick and thin, and pulled out in the loom in such a way as to give the zag-zig pattern. The same zag-zig also is utilized to make the entire material for tailored suits. It is found in white, in two-tone and in three-tone effects and it is always distinctive and handsome, but the combination of the heavy border with the thin voile makes the more important feature. Almost every fabric is a novelty. Old fashioned plain favorites, no doubt, will appear later but just uow the new catches the fancy. . A really fasci nating one, especially adapted to separate blouses, is known as Har monica and has for its essential characteristic a tiny plait produced in the weaving. These plaits are very soft and undulating and, undoubt edly, the designer finds some connec tion between them and the name he applies, but, however they are called, under whatever name the fabric is shown, it is very attractive, entirely new and promises to make a feature cf summer fashions.