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Arizona republican. [volume] (Phoenix, Ariz.) 1890-1930, March 23, 1914, Image 7

Image and text provided by Arizona State Library, Archives and Public Records; Phoenix, AZ

Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn84020558/1914-03-23/ed-1/seq-7/

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YF.RILY and indeed are fashions a growth rather
than creations. If one needed verification of
(hat truth, it surely would be found in the evolu
i iwi of the skirt as it has been manifested in the past
- month. From the perfectly straight, narrow effect,
it w&s first developed into slight fullness, then into a
little drapery over the hips and today we have breadth
i.t tfx.-.erted as well as can be and looped up effects
tint are manifestations of the bustle idea. Skirts still con
tinue to be narrow about the feet and the essential nar
roMvt together with what may fairly be called the
crate for dancing results in rather short skirts but, above
the knees, there is very generous breadth and a bouffant
effect tliar does infinite credit to the ingenuity of designers
and dressmakers. We do not wear wires. Nothing that is
really stiff enters into a fashionable costume. Draperies
arc so handled that the effect is found.
As an inev itable consequence of such a silhouette, coats
for dressy costumes are very short. For the severely
tailored, useful sort, the drapery is more moderate, rather
suggested than aggressive and belted coats and coats of
the more practical sort are allowed. Sleeve lengths vary
generously that each designer and each wearer is free
to determine upon the one that is best suited to herself
and to the costume. To be sure, there is a certain
inherent fitness in these things and the fancy beruffled
coat calls for the shorter sleeves too loudly to be disre
garded while the plain, useful costume seems to demand
long sleeves by right of natural selection, but, even
when these truths are taken into consideration, there ia
still a very generous latitude allowed. '
All the hig French houses have held their openings
and. in these days of cabled reports, those interested are
well aware of what each has to show. While it is true
that each one of the big houses aims to stt a style of its
nwn, certain essential characteristics are to be found
throughout and this silhouette that means narrowness
about the ankles, generous breadth about the hips, droop
ing shoulders and big waists may safely be relied upon
for a good many months to come.
Taffeta is such a pronounced favorite that it seems
to put most other materials in the background and the
new taffetas arc really fascinating, showing not alone
wonderful plain colors but chameleon effects that are a
perfect delight, moire treatments that are by no means
extreme but just relieve the plainness of texture together
with flowered and figured effects that combine to make
a variety that is almost bewildering. The material is
used not alone for entire costumes but in combination
with other silk ru..ieridls as well as serge, gabardine and
crfpr, until it would be almost safe to say that some bit
of taffeta is found in almost every costume.
i2o6 Tunic Dress for Misses and Small Women, 16 and
1 8 years.
NEVER was any material lovelier for young girls
and small women than the cotton crepe of the
season with its pretty embroidered designs. This
dress is white with little touches of color in the embroidery
and the wide girdle that in finished with long sash ends
at the back matches one of the brightest shades. The
design is one of the very newest and, at the same time,
one of the very simplest possible. All the fashionable
blouses are loose; therefore, there is no question of fit
to be considered and this one means only under-arm
seams. The skirt consists of just front and back portions
and the tunic is all in one piece. Any clever girl could
run the dress up in a few hours and its smartness is beyond
question while there are many materials that could be
: ubslituted for the crepe. Taffeta would make a beautiful
dress of this kind and wool crepe in one of the pretty plain
colors would be most attractive with the neck frill of
soft lace or perhaps the frill on the tunic and the frill on
the neck lih of taffeta, for taffeta is as smart for trim
mings as it is for entire costumes.
Designs may be obtained by send- IwTjSl
gp? ini cents for each pattern wanted jjST - Ymffiffi
to the Fashion Deoartment of this ,.. r. 3s.4a;37'
1 1 I I ouo uoat.
Vr paper. I
8176 Gown, 34 to 40 bust.
NEVER have we had a season which offered such
really fascinating variety of materials yet, in
spite of that fact, stripes and checks make a
dominant feature and the checks are especially note
worthy because of the very beautiful colors that are
employed and the suggested rather than aggressive
lines that appear. While undoubtedly we will wear a
great deal of silk, silk and wool mixtures are in demand
and eponge weaves are to be found in this mixture and
also in all wool, all cotton and-all linen to be exceedingly
handsome as well as exceedingly smart.
The coat suit that is illustrated shows eponge in a
combination of tan and green that is extremely beautiful
and eminently springlike in effect. The little coat is one
of the very new ones that gives a bolero effect at the
front but is finished with a real coat tail at the back. The
skirt shows a tunic over the hips and back but leaves the
long unbroken lines at the front that are exceedingly be
coming. Women who seek an effect of height will be
sure to welcome this feature as well as the stripes and, as
8134 Coat, 34
8066 Skirt, 22
a matter of course, the same model can be used for almost
any seasonable fabric. Among new ones for handsome
suits is a moire taffeta and that silk would be exceedingly
beautiful made in this way with trimming of a fancy
material giving a brilliant note of color. As illustrated,
the costume is a practical, useful one. Made from the
silk, it would immediately be converted into a dressy
afternoon costume and it is just that adaptability of pre
vailing designs that makes one of the most interesting
Every woman likes to have an entire gown in her ward
robe and the light weight silks of the season seem especially
well suited to such use. The one shown here is made from
taffeta with trimming of charmeuse satin and the contrast
of fabrics gives a smart touch while the lines are among
the newest and best to be found. Loose sleeves cither in
Japanese or raglan style make the almost universal ones
and the way in which the two materials arc combined in
this gown make an exceptionally good effect. If for any
reason a more practical gown is wanted, the same model
could be used for one of the pretty wool crepes with
to 44 bust.
to 32 waist.
8194 Skirt, 22 to 30 waist.
trimming of charmeuse satin, for crepc-finished fabrics
are among the most fashionable of the spring and they
contrast most effectively with the dull finish of the
charmeuse satin. The wisest dressmakers and the best
designers fully realize that color always should be chosen
with reference to the individual's heeds rather than to
any prevailing fashion but, nevertheless, there is a ten
dency to the use of yellow, green and blue this season
that is not to be overlooked. A combination of yellowish
tan crepe with brown trimmings would make an exceed
ingly beautiful gown.
In the spring, every one motors and, consequently,
there is always a need for a loose coat, to be slipped on
over the gown. The one that is shown on the central
figure is new and smart. In the short length, it gives
really the effect of a spurt coat and is practical for walking
as well as fur use in the car but the same model can be
cut longer to become essentially adapted to rough weather
or to traveling. In the picture, white polo cloth is shown
but the season is unusually generous in the matter of
cloakings as it is in that of other materials.
SUITS and gowns both are made sf the silk and, '
not infrequently colors are combined in a really
wonderful way. At a recent showing of new .
models was noted an afternoon gown of the new moir6
taffeta in changeable effect com billing blue and j
gold. The wide deep girdle was all of gold colored
satin held by a large slide of mother . of pearl and
the blended colors were a real delight . An
exceedingly smart gown that exemplifies the use of strong
contrasts consists of a plain skirt of black satin with a
knee length tunic and blouse of changeable taffeta show
ing salmon with a tender gray. The lower edge of the
tunic is finished with a gathered rufflle of black matching
the skirt. The blouse opens in a deep V to the belt and
is finished with a turned over collar and revers of embroid
ered chiffon in a gray that exactly matches the threads
found in the silk while the chemisette is of shirred white
net. We are entering upon a season of wonderful colors
and of infinite possibilities. Contrast and harmony when
rightly handled are a pleasure to see and it is the part
of the designer to studysurh with care. Many of the
figured silks show almost during effects. The artist in
color uses them with rare effect. Let us hope they will
not be attempted by those of lesser gifts. Plain colors
and quiet tones always make a safe choice. The daring
contrasts offered are fascinating but, unless rightly
handled, bring dire results.
For the more elaborate costumes, those designed for
dinners, dances and occasions of the kind, there is a
great tendency toward skirts that are trimmed at the
lower edge and sometimes the skirt with slight fullness
that is held in by trimming. Puffings, ruchings and
frills make the preferred finishes and such finishes seem
the natural outgrowth of the fashion for taffeta while
they are more often seen in that material than in any
other. Unquestionably they are pretty. No matter
how well fitting the shoes, how perfectly matching the
hosiery, the foot thai is thrust out from a plain, narrow
skirt is by no means pretty. The soft ruches seem to fall
caressingly about the ankles and to relieve greatly the
severe line. For the gown to be worn within doors, the
finish has everything to commend it. As a matter of
course, the plain skirt is the preferred one for the street
costume of even the elaborate sort.
Mouses for wear with coat suits have taken on certain
interesting new features. Organdie is leing much ex
ploited for the white blouses to be worn with simple
suits and hand embroidery is the preferred finish. 9
8178 Fancy Blouse, 34 to 40 bust.
8006 Draped Two-Piece Skirt, 22 to 30 waist.
THE new taffetas are so delightfully soft that they
drape beautifully. This gown is made of that
favorite materia! in two-toned of chameleon '
effect with trimming of plain color. It is very charming
and very graceful vet quite simple withal and it takes
lines that are becoming to large as well as to slender
figures. There is a plain lining to the blouse over which
the lace chemisette is arranged. The skirt is made in
only two pieces with the edges lapped and these lapped
edges allow the most effective use of trimming material.
Made of the taffeta, it is exceedingly beautiful. It could
be reproduced in crepe de chine to be more clinging
in effect and it could lie utilized for charmeuse satin to
be exceedingly handsome. Among important fabrics
must lie mentioned the new wool crepes that are such
favorites and the lovely cotton fabrics that, ir. recent
days, take rank with silk itsell.
For the medium size the blouse will require 2i yds.
of material 27. l's yds. ,50. ll4 yds. 44 inches wide,
with ir,s yds. 21 for the- trimming, t's yds. of lace 4
inches wide; the skirt 4,'2 yds. 27. 3 yds. 36 or 44 inches

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