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Arizona republican. [volume] (Phoenix, Ariz.) 1890-1930, February 08, 1915, Image 3

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn84020558/1915-02-08/ed-1/seq-3/

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THE ARIZONA REPUBLICAN, MONDAY MORNING, FEBRUARY 8, 1913
Tunics and Draperies Make Features of Evening Gowns By May Manton
3
PAGE -ELEVEN"
THE present is a season of very
marked variety m fabrics em
ployed for evening gowns. - On
the one hand we see the richest and
the most sumptuous brocades and on
the other the lightest and filmiest
nets and similar materials, but
whether brocade or net, silk or satin,
is chosen, lace is largely employed
in combinalion, and there is a very
marled tendency toward the use of
scintillating beads as trimming. The
beads arc employed to finish edges;
they are applied over stamped de
signs to outline a border or give a
conventionalized flower effect; and
paillettes are sewed all over thin ma
terial to produce a superbly brilliant
result.
In a general way, it is to be noted
that the bodies are lo ! finished over
the skirts, but lor the vounger con
tingent, at least the swathing sash or
girdle i much used, and in combina
tion with that thr finish may be
jithrr oxer or under, since the edge
A the waist and the edge of the skirt
are eniirely hidden Irom sight.
For I he dance, skirts are made of
,-nmforlable length. For the dinner
end the opera, tiains are liked but
the favorite train of the season is cut
t-eparately and is arranged over the
complete skirt in place of making a
part thereof.
At the extreme left of the picture is
slu-wn a young girl's dancing tr.)ck. It
is an extremely dainty creation made
if pink siik tulle over white 'ace, and
is trimmed with pink rose-bud band
ing. The girdle is of t harmeusc satin,
alio pink. '1 he skirt is a very simple,
very attractive one the foundation
being in two piece of satin with the
lace flouncing over it, while the tunic
is straight and gathered. It can be
lett plain as in this instance or draped
at the left side. The bodice tells its
own story. If de-ircl for daytime
use, it can be made with yoke and
undersleevei.
Evciy variation of the flounced
skirt is l.eiig worn t hi - winter and
flou ices are especially charming in
net, cliillon and the like. The cos
tume that is shown here is made of
ret w ith pice I edge- i.vcr a chnrmcuse
foundation and the fancy little basque
8432 8419
8419
is of paillctted net, with plain net
edged with pearl trimming for the
sleeves and the neck finish. The color
is white with crystal and pearl pail
lettes, and there is a big velvet rose
worn as a garniture. The gown is
one of the most fashionable that could
be shown, extremely dainty and useful,
quite within the reach of any home
dressmaker. The flounces are straight
and gathered, arranged over a two
piece foundation. The little under-
bodice and the basque are both ar
ranged over a lining so that the full
ness is held in place. The costume as
it stands is as pretty as could be, but
the idea could be copied in many
ways; for the little basque could be
ued plain satin or plain velvet if the
paillettcd net is not liked.
For the bodice will be required in the
medium size yards of material
inches wide, I yard 36 or . yard 44,
vvith ?i yard 36 for the trimming por
tions and the sleeves; for the skirt
2i-i yards 27, 36 or 44, with 5 J-3 yards
27- 3-'i yls 3 or 3 yards 44 for the
flounces.
The brocades of the season are mar
velously lovely. They show the richest
colors and many of them show metal
threads, but while exceedingly rich in
elect, they are soft and pliable. The
third costume of the group shows one
in combination with lace flouncing.
The flouncing makes a straight, shirred
skirt, over which the draped train is
arranged, and the edges of the train
meet at the front to give an overskirt
suggestion. The basque is one of the
daintiest garments possible, shirred
over a foundation that holds its
gathers to position and with short,
pretty; full sleeves.
Velvet would be handsome in place
of the brocade, or plain satin, or any
material of the sort, and chiffon velvet
or charmeuse satin are much used for
evening gowns . while chiffon velvet
treated just after the manner of the
brocade would be exceedingly beautiful.
For the medium size the basque will
require 2' g yards of material 37 inches
wide, or 1 yank 36 or 44. with ? j
yard 44 for sleeves and trimming: the
skirt will require 1 yards of flouncing
44 in. wide, with 2I4 yards 36 or 44
for the train.
841 . 8384 - 8454 l
g384 8427
. . . , ' ' M 8453
FASHION NOTES
OF INTEREST
IN a general way, it may be said that
for all afternoon and morning occa
sions, the coat suit is the prevailing
costume, although long coats and
coats of fur are much worn over
gowns of velvet and of heavy silk, of
broadcloth, and of various other ma
terials. Whether or not the military
influence that is in the air, has had
its effect, the tailored suit is a com
paratively simple creation this season.
The over-elaborate, dressy costume
that has been put forth under such
name during the past few years, is not
conspicuous. While a great deal of
fur trimming is used and while braid
of every kind is in evidence, there is a
certain air of simplicity, and that sim
plicity always means a handsome and
distinctive result.
At a first glance, the thought is that
everything flares, that from beir.g
straight and narrow, we have suddenly
grown voluminous, for in one way or
another, in the coat, in the tunic or in
the skirt breadth, width and ripple
effect is to be found. But while this is
true, a second glance assures recogni
tion of the fact tjiat in many instances
women are clinging to straight lines,
for they are loathe to give up all the
slendcrness which it has taken years
to achieve. A very handsome coat
suit seen during an afternoon session
was for example, made of black broad
cloth with narrow skirt and oddly
shaped tunic, and the tunic was laid
in many plaits. Consequently, when
the wearer walked, there was much
flare and breadth, but when she stood,
' there were straight lines preserved.
The coat extended only a little below
the waist-line, but hung in straight
lines and was trimmed with collar
and cuffs of blue fox, while the accom
panying hat was a real "tricorne" with
crown of silver brocaded vtfvet with
:ip-turned brim of plain velvet banded
with fur of the same sort. An exceed
ingly handsome suit was made of com-
bined broadcloth and baby lamb vel
vet in a wonderful shade of mole, the
skirt or as much of the skirt as could
be seen was made of the fur velvet
' '
MsOv)l 8086 .'S8i H
with long flaring tunic of the cloth
and the coat again was a short one of
the velvet to match the skirt, with
sleeves of cloth, for this is a season
of contrasting sleeves, and these
appear in the coat suits of more
elafiorate sort as well as in the gowns.
Beaver is more conspicuous than it
has been in many years. A very
elegant costume of green vclour de
laine was made with circular skirt
finished with a wide band of beaver
fur and a coat that hung in straight
lines to below the hips where it was
finished with a full skirt forming, a
deep band at each side and this skirt
was edged with a narrow band ot the
beaver, the same fur being used for the
choker collar and wide cuffs. Chokers
are unquestionably a feature, and that
they are becoming is true, but whether
ccmfortable or not under mild weather
conditions, must be left for each
wearer to decide for herself. A cos
tume that gives evidence of the pre
vailing military effect and at the same
time is far from being severe, was made
of velours in a really wonderful shade
of blue with trimming of opossum
bands, and with real BradcnUurgs
closing the simple coat, . wttile above
the fur the tunic was richly embroid
ered in subdued Colors. The skirt in
this instance was narrow and plain,
the tunic full and much flared, but
open at the sides in a rather unusual
way, and the fur was approximately
fotit inches in width and the embroid
ery above perhaps a little more. . The
coat was the almost inevitable one for
suits of the kind, simple, plain, but
taking straight lines under the arms,
with a band of fur finishing it at just
about the hip line, and the choker
and the bands on the sleeves were
also of fur. Fur coats always are
sumptuous and always can be trusted
to appear at the Horse Show, let that
occasion come uxm date it may. An
exquisite one that is fairly typical
of prevailing styles was' made of Per
sian lamb with trimming of sable, the
body portion being just loose enough
for comfort with moderately wide
sleeves, but below the waist it spread,
and flaied to reveal a tilling of rich
white satin brocade. One -of sable
Kkius made a choker collar, and there
were two bands of equal width on each
sleeve, with a brush finishing each,
and at the low waist-line was arranged
entire skins that formed a belt. Be
neath the coat was to be seen a skirt
of black velvet, and there was a tiny
little toque of soft pliable fur with
trimming of paradise. Almost by its
side, was seen a costume of heavy
faille silk in a wonderful shade of
chestnut brown with trimming of
blown fox. The skirt was circular,
generously flated and banded with
fur, and the coat was in half length,
with fur at its lower edges. But in this
instance, in place of a collar was worn
a fur scarf, although bands of fur fin
ished the close fitting sleeves. The
hat was again a tiny little close-fitting
turban, with two little feathers that
drooped coquettishly at the back of
the hat, in place ot standing upiight.
Beneath the fur coats were worn a
great many dresses in what is known
as the Moyen Age style, and velvet is
unquestionably a favorite for such,
although velvet is often combined with
other materials." A beautiful gown
seen during an evening session, was of
the favorite faille silk in a rich shade
of green, with trimming of skunk, and
the important feature unquestionably
was an overdress or tunic in the real
Moyen Age style, for it was cut with
round neck and without sleeves, and
was made much after the manner of the
DESCRIPTION OF PATTERNS.
8432 F'ancy Blouse for Misses and
Small Women, 16 and 18 years.
8419 Two-Piece Skirt with Flounce for
Misses and Small Women, 16 and 18
years.
8454 Evening Bodice, 34 to 42 bust.
8384 Two-Piece Skirt with Flounces,
24 to 30 waist.
842" Shirred Fvening Basque, 34 to
42 bust.
8433 One-Piece Skirt with Train, 24 to
32 waist.
8410 Dress with Apron Drapery for
Misses and Small Women, 16 and 18
years.
8331 Fancy Blouse, 34 to 40 bust.
837S Ciathered Tunic with Basque
. Girdle, 24 to 30 waist.
8086 Two-Piece Skirt, 24 to 34 waist, '
primitive smock. At the Ipwer edge,
however, it was cut to lorm pout
at the front and one at the back, and
it was banded with the daik fur. Be
neath it was a slip or lining with sleeve'
of the same .-ilk, and with ,-kirt of the
same and in fact both sleeics ind skirt
were quire plain. But at the 1 eel; wa
posed an exceedingly becoming flaring
collar of the fur, and around the nei k
and arniholc edges was a little band
of white chiffon embroidered in c,;c, .1.
Over the hips was draper! a sah v. hich.
by virtue of confining 4ie fulh.es of
the over-garment, gave to it the loni;
waisted effect that is essenii.,1 to the
carrying out of the Mo.cn .'.je tdc.i.
A second gown, en the a..ie ;ci -I
lines, was made of green velvet with
long plain basque like bodice an I iu
gathered skirt, but the skirt was quite
unusual in the finish of hound srallop.
at the lower edge, and the hasoue was
richly embroidered in ,;o'd t-. 1 freer,
threads below the waist-line. Although
the upper part and sleeves wcr plain
save for bands of fur upon the sleeves
and for the flaring collar cf fur that
finished the half-round neck The
front and back of thr bodice was
without fullness but at the sides there
was a little fullness, and these sides
were cleverly extended to form a
girdle that terminated with a single
Jong sash end falling at the left of the
front.
8406 Fancy Basque, 31 to 42 bust.
8428 Two-Piece Skirt with Tunic, .24 tc
32 waist.
My Manton Patterns far these De
signs may be obtained by sending 10
cents for each pattern wanted t3 the
Fashion Department of this paper.
Fashion Dept.
Gentlemen:
I enclose ..... . Jor v,h: :h snt Te
the following patterns:
Send Pattern No Size
Send Pattern No . . .Size
To (Name)
Street and No
City..'.. . State. ".'
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