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TIIE ARIZONA; REPUBLICAN, MONDAY MORNING, JUNE 21, 1013
cJ? PAGE FIVE ONE of the NEW COAT DRESSES How it is made told Bv MAY M ANTON THIS is a season of a great many attractive and picturesque effects and they are perhaps especially conspicuous in the chil dren's costumes. But among them all, it is doubtful if there is any one which allows of greater variation of treatment than tlie sleeveless bodice or coatee which is worn over a sepa rate blouse and skirt. The dress that is shown here, and which has been selected for the lesson, is made with such a coat and also with a straight, plaited skirt that is joined to a per fectly plain body portion. The pretty, full sleeve are sewed to the arm holes of this body portion and the coatee is finished quite separately, consequently this coatee can be made of a material to match the slcirt or of a different one. In the picture, the skirt and the coat are both of linen, the body lining is made of lining lawn and the collar and the sleeves are of batiste; the combination is a Rood one. a smart one and a practical one, and the dress will be serviceable through out the entire summer. It would, however, be easy to treat this model Diagram Showing Sleeveless Coat or Oter-Blouse on Material 4 s Inches Foidei Leng'hivise. in a number of different ways. The little coat coul 1 lc of colored linen or pique, while thekirt, sleeves and collar are all of white voile or white ere'pe or other thinner material, or, jf something a little dressier is wanted, the skirt and the sleeves could be made of white crfpe or voile and the little coatee of taffeta. For the simple drss, linen scalloped as it is here is good, but there are also other fabrics that are quite as appropriate. If an every -day, morning dress is warned, plaid gingham would be pretty f r the skirt, sleeves and collar with a plain chambray for the coatee, or, cotton rrfpe could be used of a thinner and lighter quality for the skirt and the sleeves and a heavier crepe for the coatee. We really have a great many wonderful materials this season and this dress is of the sort that can be made ery dressy and very handsome or perfectly plain and simple as it is rut from one material or from .an other. A taffeta coatee over white crfpe or voile would of course make a 'ery dressy costume, while the linen that is shown here means a pretty afternoon dress, and if the gingham were used, it would be quite appro priate for morning occasions, but whatever the material, the process of making always will be the same and the directions will be helpful whether the simplest dress or the most elaborate Diagram Shtnritrg L'nder-Bodic e on Material 36 Inches Folded Lengthwise. one i cVicsn. In the diagram are shown the coatee cut from the linen w.d the -wl'sr and the sleeves cut from baiiste ar-i the body portion or lining fr.'.ii o'ain lawn. The skirt is not V,b-'a v It is a simple, straight piece .U tivtrii is nothing to show. The ?mtrt. must be laid on the material tV. 1 i-K edge marked by the three :fiKB t,n the lengthwise fold, then. X "sight selvage edges of the !,:r joined until you have the eoi length. If there is to be a !i i. rememlier to allow extra length -U a good width for a hem .on a !' dress is three or four inches. In fc-ldltion to that you will of course .rted the usual scam allowance for the inturn. lark all around the outside edges of the pattern with a tracing wheel or with chalk and then cut beyond that line . for the scams, allowing three eighths of an inch if the material is closely woven and more if it is loosely W-jven for upon the character and quality of the material must always depend the necessary scam width. ' Be careful to place the pattern and the various parts exactly as directed on the envelope and as indicated in the diagrams. The skirl being"-joined to the body lining, the coat will lx- the last garment to be undertaken, there fore lay the piees for that aside. Mark all the perforations and all the notches exactly and then mark through to the under side with the Tailors ta,-ks as directed in previous lessons and when you have pulled the two thick nesses of the material apart carefully, you will be ready for the actual work of aewinj. 1 1 s I rl, i u As a first step in the making of the under bodice or lining, form darts and to do that, bring the corresponding lines of perforations exactly together and baste on the perforaf ions. 011 N6S t iirl's lrr, 10 tu 14 years. Now, because the over-blouse or coat is sleeveless and with loose ar.11 boles. and a little of the under bodice will be seen, it will be advisable to fare the armholc edges with material like the sleeves, for we have not made it of the batiste, but of lining lawn which is heavier and Iw-tfer adapted to the purpose, since the under Ixxlice must support the skirt. After cutting the sleeves and the cuffs, there will be some trimmings of the batiste. I ay in Diagram Showing Sleeve. Cuff ani Collar on Material 36 Inches Wide Foidei Lengthwise. these over the atlern of the under bodice at the arnihole edes and cut pieces wide enough to extend to the perforations, allowing one-quarter of an inch extra for the inturned edge, then bate over the lining lawn. Turn the inner edges under and stitch to position and rut the lining away be neath. Pin the shoulder and under arm edges together, meeting the notches exactly and carefully make the seams on the right side. - Stitch as closely to the edges as possible, then turn the seams and stitch again on the wrong side, making this last stitching on the marked outline of the pattern. Turn the front edges under on the line of smaller perforations and turn the edges under a second time at the width of the seam allowance, baste and stitch neatly into place, close to the edges. When this is done, the bodice will be ready for the sleeves and the collar. In the picture, the collar is finished with insertion and with a little lace edging. To apply this trimming neatly, baste the lace insertion over the edge of the collar, mitre carefully at the corners, then stitrii the inner edge to position, using a very fine needle and very fine stitches. Cut the material away be neath, leaving just sufficient edge to turn up tinder the lace. Turn this edge up, baste and stitch a second time within the first stitching to make a firm finish. Then trim the inturned edges off closely. -The second stitch ing makes a firm finish and a durable one and there is no necessity for turn ing the edge in, for so doing makes a rather heavy collar, whereas, it is de sirable to make this one light and dainty. The lace is drawn up to give a little fullness and it is whipped on by hand. I.ay the collar over tlie coal or blouse with the center backs 'and notches exactly meeting and baste into place. Then cut a bias strip of batiste three-quarters of an inch in width, lay that over the collar with the edges meeting and baste. Stitch the three thicknesses together on the marked outlines, then trim off neatly; turn the facing over onto the under side of the coat, turn another quarter of an inch under for the in turn, baste it carefully and stitch close to the edge. Then roll the collar over on the perforations. To make the sleeves, close the wains with the notches meeting, taking first a narrow seam on the right side, then a second warn on the wrong side as directed for the shoulders and the iinder-.ir.ns. If you are tisiriji the long sleeve and wish to FOULARDS AND EMBROIDERED COTTONS ARE AMONG THE SMARTEST OF ALL MATERIALS FOR SUMMER GOWNS --- By MAY MA NT ON KIjiJ vlm ' lilt 111 ' nS isi I mmmyw MmmA I II I- Mffa (W 853S . MMk U - LINKN is always a band some and a desirable ma terial for summer gowns, but this year it is exceptionally attractive for several realms. There is a new sort on the market which is t laimed to be non-crushalle. a!y the linen is to be found in a really won derful variety of colors and in addition, it frequently is com bined with cre;e and with vt.iie and other materials of lighter weight, so that in the one fab ric is to le found much oppor tunity. In the picture, arc shown two good models. The tunic gown is made of white linen in eyelet style and com bined with the same material in an exquisite shade of buff. The costume is a very charm ing one. eminently smart and grareful and it also is practical inasmuch as it is available for many needs. The transparent frills of fine lace make a pretty, l,ecoming and fashionable finish for neck and sleeves. make the cuffs as illustrated, baste insertion over ihe long edges. Stitch the inner edges to position, turn the material beneath the lower edge under and stitch again as directed for the collar and trim off neatly. Cut through the material beneath the upper row one-quarter of an inc h from the lower edge, turn this quarter of an inch down under the cuffs and stitch a second time. Join the ends of the cuffs, making a very neat double scams and whip the lace onto the lower edges, then gather the sleeves at the lower edges between the double crosses and again one-quarter of an inch alove, making a very narrow space be tween the two. Arrange the cuffs over these gathers with the scams meeting the scams of the sleeves and baste carefully. Xow stitch the upper edges of the lace insertion into place, then turn the material on the under side up over the edges of the sleeves. Turn the edges under a second time for the inturn and fell by hand over the gath ers, taking very small, neat stitches. If you arf making the elbow sleeves, you will have cut off on the cross line of perforations on the pattern, then gather at the lower edges and join to straight bands the size of the arms, finishing these bands with little- frills of lace whipped to their lower edges. Cat her the sleeves at the upper edges between the double crosses and place in the armholes, scams exactly at notches and the single large perfora tions at the bhouldcr seams, and take care to baste with the seams on the right side. Stitch as closely to ,the dges as possible, then turn, baste and stitch a second time on the marked outline of :he pattern. Join the se'vae edges of the material as neces sary for the skirt, cltse the back seam, then turn the lower e-lge to make a i Mm?r.hm$i i 'rrftJl HA I other feature of the season R &itt '-;'' i 1 ! ' V.riiS ! 'it 1 l that is quite . exclusively ik 1 MH'MP 'It- ft !i - hc -av which j-5 iM&&'yft&t I J " 11 U H ' I silk is utilized. Taffeta and JfL Wp4mM$i i . w $ r ar, in . Sjfr 7 a fwSt'wtyf m ffiy$!l o 1 I ! I I 'IM,' oV per;? styles and the foulards are s7& M 'ttk' & iw1 0 I i"i c rj, ', sf. J exceptionally attractive and de- L Vf ImWmiM'' ' ll' o0 .1 1 1 U f,.saflowered,affe,awi,htrL f rKlt&i' ' I'" " W 6 l ;f t ming of plain and it is very fT ill i' Vfll'Wi'-i-A ,I'''i,iil ! it; charming, very summ.r-tike and f rijijM : k UXiS exce(.:ily dainty. If all silk 1 1 1 UllI ( ''k'" V'-V is not liked, a sinalar effect W I JMkmW f I ol-i-d by usinS silk MW Wm&mM, ruches on a foundation of cot- Jl-.W , mj0Ai.J't'(A .1 ton crepe for the crepes are as IW 1 beautiful as silk itself and the njjl 4S!gi.iJB&'' 1 two combine perfectly. The ill J foulard gown is made with I i 'fk'iL -4 ) sleeves of silk voile which give I (' if jfiif' I ff S'r's dress by its side shows a I I'l'ty's fcss-- ff favorite use of lxrdered cotton - . 8441b 3336 efe Voi!c that niakCS a mSt intCr fcvSr K" esting and attractive feature of j summer styles. hem at the width you have allowed, baste and stitch. Now form plaits by folding on the lines of smaller perfora tions and lapping these folded cdes over to meet the lines of larger per forations and lap the plaits at each side of the back over to meet at the seams. The opening must be ma le on a line with the blouse, therefore, cut it just beneath the under fold of the left side of the box-plait formed at the center front and stitch one edge of a straight strip of material two inches wide down the front edge and up the back to form a continuous facing. Fold at the center and hem the remaining edge over the seam. Join the sUirt to the under bodice, plaiting the large perforations that mark the center front exactly together and the center backs exactly meeting. Stitch on the marked outline of the pattern, then turn the seam up under the bodice and stitch baste. To make a perfectly nea finish, cut a narrow strip of lining lawn about three-quarters of an inch in width, turn each edge tinder and baste over the edge of the skirt. Then stitch close to the edge as iu the pic ture and again at the upper edge of the facing. To make the sleeveless coat or over-blouse is a very simple matter, but before we take another step, we must insert the pockets and to do this in the neatest way, we must apply strips for facings over the perforations before cutting the openings. Cut two straight strips, each one inch in width and six inches in length, baste over the coat with the centers on the lines of perforations indicating the pocket. Then cut the openings on the perfora tions through both tlie facings and the coat. Seam the edges together firmly, taking up as liitle as possiMc, tl'.tw turn the facings through" the open ings to the under side of the coat and baste with just a little extending beyond the seam to give the effect of a piping and ro make a neat finish. Stitch r.rrmnd a'l the cd-es a(Mmt one cit;h;!i of an inch wit bin. t hen make the jiockcts. To do this, cut two pieces of M aterial for each one three inches dep and one inch wider than the opening. Turn the outer cd'cs of the facings on the lower edges of tlie openings under for one-quarter of an in-h and baste one strip under ea-h, then stitch into place. Turn the upper cJtxs of the two oilier pieces for the pockets under for one-quarter of an inch anrl arrange over the fafings on the upper edges of the pockets and stitch. Then l ustc the sides and the lower edges of tlie pockets together ami if you like, curv e the ends. Si itch very neatly, close to the edges and then bind over the stitching with very thin seatu binding or with bias folds that can be bought ready for use. Join the shoul der and under-arm edges, making the double seams as usual and you will then be ready to finish the edges. DESCRIPTION OF PATTERNS. i5i5 Plain Blouse or Cuitupe, 34 Jo 44 biit. 85.V Over Dress with Waist and Tunic in One, Small ,?- or ',(, Medium ,S or 40, Large .2 or 44 bust. 8554-A Two-f'iccc Semi-Circular Skirt, 2 4 to 34 waist. 84S1 Blouse with Full Fronts, 34 to 42 bust. 8604 Two-Piece Skirt, 24 to 3' waist. !?5K (lathered Blouse with Bc! 34 to 40 bust. 8441-A Circular Skirt. 24 to 34 waist. 8636-A Girl's Press, 8 to 14 jears. S540 Priucessc Gown, 34 to 42 bust. Here, they are scalloped and the seal lot, s arc vrry pretty, but if that seems to represent too great labor, you can bind them with same pretty washable braid or apply a bias strip of material over a'! the edges and stitching into place. Work button-holes on the right side and sew buttons on the left side of both the tindcrbodies and the blouse or coat and the work will then be completed. Adjust some sort cf pretty ribbon girdle over the under IxHlice, as shown in the picture, in order to be quite certain that the join ing of the tinder bodice and the skirt will always be hidden from view. For the 12 -,r size the coat and the skirt will require -.t1 yds. of ma terial linen j,S in. wide, which is a favorite width this season; for the under bodice will bo needed Js yd. 36 in. wide and for the sleeves and the collar, ?4 yd. ,y' in. wide. May Manton Patterns fr,r thrse De signs may be obtained by sending 10 crnts for each pattern wanted to the Fashion Department of this paper. Fashion Dept. -Gcntlemen I enclose .for which sentJ me the following patterns: Send Pattern No Size Send Pattern No Size To (Name) Street and No City State HOUSEHOLD HINTS Those who use a!r generously in their sweeping of their carpets are never troubled with moths-, besides, salt brightens the colors and brings out the pattern of the carpet in a most satisfactory mr.nner. . If towel racks in kitchen and bath rooms are not nickeled, rarefullv paint them with at !c two coats of white enamel paint, to avoid the possibility of iron rust spots as well as for general cleanliness. One housekeeper suggests that common burlaps laid under larpet, but on top ,of the lining paper, will prevent the dust rising when the car pet is swept, as it will filter through the coarse meshes of the burlaps. Sprinkle places infested by ants with borax anil you will s ion be rid of them. Ringworms will yield to borax treatment. Apply sirm? solu tion of borax three times a day. i's- dust on the powder very often. In buying a hair matt re-, cr"" one filled with bla k rather than white hair, as the latter has '.f rurally been bleached, which deprive it of springiness, aid makes it "ir.v" more quickly than the bla k or c en gray hair. At least on. e a week the i-per, sweeper should 1 tl.. r.-,ij'nlv c lear.' d and the brush fre.l from h.i'rs l threads. The l arins MioiLd be fre quently oi'ed - the s r.a'lest 1 count being use!, and a leatbrr -.viil ie ea",' to apply the oil v:'h. To brighten a room th Iti ;a:rvt use (lowers, sue h as a;le blossoms and c herry blo.ssons. dec; iv t-!y ar ranged in soft -toned i.w-'. 1 he Chinese are j art in! to 3-ri;j"- r-f la v.t,o, pierced and used a' holders for ljn stemtned frcit blossoms. Coal oil is recommended a nil ex cellent cleaning at-n! . One w ii' jti uses a r?.i moistened with coal oil to clean her stained vv, d flcvirs. to clean woodwork, pc.nelaia la'h'.ib and stand and aUo to v!ish the wad behind the kite lien ranse. The double result of remo in dust from the hands and t,;ca'i'in t lie skin i obtained by 'the use of melted Castile Soap and common rat meal, mixed together with a "'Hie wa c. If the water is po.-futneJ a liyle the cleansing mixture is improved. A great saving may be effected in the use of washing powder, sj useful in the kitchen, by putting it in a tin shaker, which may be extemporized by punching holes in the cover of any tin box. The powder goc many times further than when shak-n from the original package and is equally effiracious. Fnless flushed oflen with powerful solvent to remove t'.e grease, the kitchen sink will clog. A strong so lution of washing soda trad with boiling water is most effectual and should he u-d very hot immediately following a thorough cleaning with warm soaositds. Prepare a sjhic ient quantity that the drain pipe also n ay be thoroughly (lushed. The tops of old stockings n.ake ex cellent dust-cloths, a-they neither scratch nor shed lint. Sewed over a square of leather cut from a shoe top they make di sirable holders, pliable to the hand but. because of the leather, slow to heat through. To shut out an objectionable view from side or rear window, mix a little mastic varinish and white lead in equal quantities and apply to the in side of the panes with an old paint brush. It will be a good imitation of ground glass and will wear a long time. If our good intentions could only lc used for paving materia! in this world, what a savin? it would be for the taxpayers. Warm borax water removes dan druff. If powdered borax is pu: around edge of carpet, it will keep away moths. A little fnirax in the ua'cr before washing red or red-bor tier.-1 table cloths and napkins will pr?vm their fading. Turpentine and beewav; to the consis ency of thin creatn makes a tine polish for leather upholstered ; furniture. Cheesecloth' "towels" for silver and glassware will be found more de sirable than crash as they are free from lint. If alum is added to the paste used in covering boxes with paper or for scrap-books, moths or mice will not invade them For a rusty nail acc ident, pur tur pentine at once on the afflicted 4arts. It is better a great deal than carbolic acid for iron rust. All kitchen and pantry shelve should be painted, both top and bot tom and if white enamel faint is used, paper, can be dispensed with. Oxalic acid will remove iron rust from white goods. If the spot is at all obstinate, hold in steam of tea- -kettle after wetting with the acid. Serviceable yet handsjme towels are made of huckabac k, with one or two insets of hetvy torchon lace above the hemstitched two-inch hem.