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Newspaper Page Text
AUGUST ,23. 1915 LATE MODELS WITH DISTINCTIVE FEATURES --By MAY MANTDN THE ARIZONA REPUBLICAN, MONDAY -MORNING, 1LACK and white combinations jP") an- among the smartest of all things, and here is a gown which shows white taffeta spotted with' black, combined with black charmeuse satin. It is exceedingly beautiful and shows a nu nber of in teresting features. The basque with the full front and the shirred sleeves is distinctly novel. The skirt with its shaped lower edge gives extremely pretty and graceful lines. As a matter cf course, it will require to be under faced, either with the same material cr a contrasting one, for the shaped edge means that the under side will be visible. Here, the spotted silk has been used for facing, but often you will see skirts of the kind faced with con trasting" color or even trimmed with little ruftles cn the under side to ue centuate the Bare. The basque may be made with the open neck illus trated or with high neck and the back may fee cut straight or to form a point. The design is a good one for any one of the fashionable silks or for velvet combined with silk, or it could be used for tatin with crepe or for a plain taffeta with a figured one or one could make both the basque and the skirt of one material and the slccve9 of chiffon, marquisette, or some other transparent fabric. ' Faille silk would be handsome treated in this way in any one of the fashionable colors and if the shaped lower edge is not liked, the skirt can be cut straight and fin ished with any suitable trimming or it could be left straight and c,ut out in big scallops if this effect is liked. ALL shaped edges are fashion able. These are pointed but scallops and squares are equally in favor. The skirt shews one flounce joined to its lower edge and the, two upper ones arranged over it. Consequently, it flares most be comingly and gracefully at the lower edge. The over-bodice is a pretty and graceful one without sleeves, which can be worn over any blouse. As shown here, the over-bodice and the skirt are made from flowered silk and worn over a crCpe btouse but this is a design which can be used for wool materials as well as for silk and indeed for almost anything that makes a pretty afternoon gown. For some thing very dressy, net or chiffon, marquisette, or any other transparent material can be used over a silk foundation. For the simpler gown, taffeta, plain, flowered or . striped, faille silk, crepe dc chine, surah which lias been revived and is to be so much used this season, and indeed any similar material is appropriate. Crepes that combine silk threads with wool are much liked, and if the edges are bound in taffeta would be handsome made in this way. Besides l oins an eminently attractive costume, it is a simple one. If the pointed edges are not liked or the effect is more elaborate than desired, straight ones can be used instead, as suggested in the small back view. Again, the over-bodice will be found desirable for wear with any costume. ' It could be made of silk in some pretty color to be used over a white gown or over a gown of any plain? quiet tone. It gives some thing of the coatee effect an'd is shirred at the waist-line to form its own girdle. 'The backs are .extended over the shoulders and joined to the full fronts. ' For a useful gown, brown taffeta would Ic liandsomc over a blouse of brown cliili'oa. For the more dressy one. white taffeta would lie ehainrin; over net or lace or crepe, as the case might I. For the younger contingent, ' Hue t pink would lc pretty with the dyes finished with narrow black vKct ribhuii. THL one-piece frock or the dress . rr.ade with bodice and skirt joined by mean f a belt, makes a nctablc feature of jhe autumn fashions. This one is very beautiful in effect, altogether smart in its lines, yet absolutely simple and practical. It can be worn both upon the street and within 'doers. The fronts of the bodice are laid in one plait each und the fronts of the skirt als.j are plaited, so that there are continuous long lines. The inverted plait at the back of the skirt is one of the very latest -innovations or revivals. In the illustration. Joffre blue gabardine is trimmed with collar and. cuffs of. white broadcloth and the broadcloth on the gabardine make an exceedingly good effect. The patch pockets that are arranged over the belt are interesting. 8772 630 LATEST FASHION NOTES from the FASHION CENTRES THIS year we have, had the unusual spectacle f an import ant .-American display before a ' single model -of" note was received from the ether sije. Under the auspices of the leaders of Newport society a pageant was given that not alone made an entertainment; it also should ,uiark .a departure, to be , followed by designers and dressmakers season after season. That the cos tumes were beautiful has been her alded all through the daily press. Their especial point of interest just now is the one already mentioned, and there is perhaps a double signify c a lire to be found in the' fact that reports received today .f the first openings held in Paris give evidence cf much the same tendencies. It ap pears to Ik- a foregone conclusion that we are to have. coats f all lengths , from twenty-six 'inches to the rcdingote: that some of them will be very , full over the hips and some of tlicr.i will fall in straight lines. We will liavc voluminjus skirts for evening and aftcrnjon ccstun.es and skirts of generous width for the street, but for the latter use conservative at least to the extent cf n akiris; walkin; a comfort. I 'ere on this side of the sea wc are far too apt to follow fashion with rcasm. To the credit cf the Parisian grandc i: Jfe. : Mill w '7 fl?9 . WfiS.Wi . l i ffifep'sr 7 dame Lc it" Faid that she requires fasjiion to be adapted to her needs. Just now everyone walks in Paris. There are no longer the cabs to be called at a injmjiit's notice. Private equipages no longer exist, and the dainty Parisienne exacts skirts short enough for cleanliness, wide enough f-.r comfort, but nothing so exaggerated as to make walking a trial or a bore. As a matter of course, wc shall have many modifications cf these first models as the prison advances, and, interest at this sasoii is mainly ccnccrncd with tendencies. To know that we may wear short jackets or long ones means something of a. comfort, and to realize that tailored skirts are apt to be of the- circular tort which means a limited quantity of material is a relief. To le assured that a great deal of brcadcloth will be worn is always welcome news, and when wc under stand that with it there arc really exquisite velvets for occasions of dress arid some exceptionally beautiful rough-finished, cloths for the sturdier ccstumes. we shall be able to sot our minds at rest and to enjoy the re mainder of the summer. When the time comes for the autumn costumes, new models' will be in readiness. We are sure that graceful lines will appcar -and it is-safe to assu.ne that comfort will be considered. 8718 i'-h ..:- .,-.. ; . 876S --- y . -rrr '"- ' - -: " " Hats are always subjects of interest, for a new hat practically means a fresh costume. Yesterday the temperature seemed to forbid even the thought of velvet or anything of similar weight but today is "cool enougho" inspire interest in the exhibition of fall models. If we do not care to wear the velvets immediately, we shall be glad to know what is coming, and there - are a great many silk hats and tatin hats that are admirably adapted to between-seasons wear. As was mentioned in ' the pre vious letter, embroidery has appeared on hats, and beads are being used as trimming. A most effective broad brimmed sailor of black velvet , with low crown shows a single rose em broidered in pink beads on the brim. An effective toque is made with crown of. rose-colored velvet anil brim of jet sequins one overlapping the other. A brown toque shows the rim richly embroidered with gold beads and an exceedingly handsome black velvet hat of the picture order is trimmed with ornaments of cut-steel beads set at intervals around the crown, apparently, the small hats are to be quite small and the large hats are to be large. Thus far, few of intermediate size " have appeared. Heavy silk threads are used to embroider con ventional designs, wool threads are employed on the simpler . hats, and really marvelous eflccts are achieved. A black velvet hat with -large brim shewed that brim turned up at thj left cf the front with a single orna ment embroidered on this up-turned brim, and a succession of ornamentsat the base of the crown ' which .was slightly gathered. The ornaments were in what might be called modified crescent shape, filled in with' overlap ping stitches of a rich tan, while out lining the figures was fine gold cord. To the casual glance, these figures ap peared to be worked on the material but investigation showed that they were applied and that these ornaments, are supplied ready for need and ar ranged over the material at the d;sr cretion of the designer. A great nsany simple forms are used. A striking hat of the broad-brimmed, low-crowned sailor sort is of black velvet with twa pond-lily leaves and stems of white white velvet arranged over the brim. Another is made of soft white satin with black velvet swallows arranged with good effect, some on the brim and some on the crown, and wherever one turns there is evidence of trim ming of a similar sort.- We shall have est rich in abundance, there is a fair supply of the fancy feathers, but in the very nature of things there must be snme shortage, and lh:s- embroidered effects and applied n atcriuls are being used extensively. The black an 1 white craze bids fair to extend itself inrle'l r.ilely. The early hats give tenernu evideneb cf its favor and uiuiotibte Jly we shall see a ereat many costumes cf black touched with white and white t uched with black. ys wc all know, the fashion has even extended into the decorative field and blacjc and white furniture, black and white draperies and black and white wall paper have become a fad. Black and white china is being displayed by leading dealers. Let us hope that it will not be so overdone as to create . reaction. In the decorative field it is open to some question tut as a motif for the costume it is beyond reproach and it has the great merit of being almost universally becoming. If the black touched with white is a little old cr heavy, the white touched with black is open to no such criticism. A beautiful gown of white taffeta shows the front of the bodice embroid ered with jet bugles to suggest the ornamental darning familiar in silk and in various ways the black is used . upon white to be really brilliant in effect. A black toque with white wings is very beautiful in the most satis factory way, and the white and black idea is altogether such a serviceable and attractive one, it would be a thousand pities to see it overdone. New blouses, while they cannot be said to show any real novelty, are at tractive in detail and show'color effects that are . both novel and interesting. White crtpe de chine is shown with trimmings of really brilliant green, orange and coral red, and the color is used for the collar and cuffs and for novel little handkerchiefs that are tucked into tiny pockets' inserted in the revers. Fowprcd and figured silks are being extensively used and there are light-weight chiffon taffetas in the most bewildering and beautiful colors. . One-piece dress rrake an important feature of the au tumn fashion Th one will be charming for wear 11 the street as well :as 'within ioors.' - In the pic trc, it is niada of tabardioe" In' one cf the fashionable blue shades and the collar and the cuffs are : of ivory whire broadcloth; the contract is a very pretty one and the frock Is of the thorouglily" useful fcort.- ; v.. When plain color is ' used, black ties are attached, and with flowered silks frequently arc seen ties of plain color . matching some' predominating shade in the design. - Some of the blouses show open necks and some high' necks. ?ome of the high-necked blouses arc ehown with fascinating frills that en tKely relieve the severity. DESCRIPTION OF PATTERNS Basque with Full Fronts (with Basting Line and Added Seam Allow ance). 34 to 42 inches bist. '' 68o Four-Pioce Skirt, 21 to JJ Inchc-i waist. With straight lower edge. S766 Over-Bodices, 34 to 43 inche bust. To be worn over Any Blouse. 1B71S Flounced Skirt, 34 to Jo Inches ' . waist. - 8768 One-Piece Dress for Misses and Small Women, 16 and 18 years. May Mcnloa Patterns for then D tijns nuy be obtained by sanding 10 cents for rnch pattern wnttd to the Fashion Department v. this paper. Fashion Dept. . . .. Gentlemen I enclose. .... .ior which Send nte the following patterns: Send Pattern No., .Sum,. Send Pattern No.. ...... .Set. . . .'. To (Name) ( Street and No.. Gty.'.... ..State