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THE DURHAM RECORDER.
QNQUEST Bv Dr. FREDERICK A. COOK CopyriBht. 1909. by the New York Herald Company, Registered, In Canada In Accordance With fcopy right Act. Copyright In Mex ico Under Law of the Republic of Mexico. All Rights Reserved ITIie CooK expedition was equipped at (jloucenter. Mass.. and was ready to start on july a. Vr- t-'ooK and Rudolph ji'raneiie were put ashore at AnnootoK, UrtriiiHiul. with ample stores and during tne winter made preparations for the polnr dust). On Ket. IS. I1KJ8. the mam exiltnou started tor the pole with elev en men, 10U uogs and eleven heavily load ed sleds, (iolns a little mirth of west, the puny on March 1 reached the north ern end of tlciborg Island. Here the ex peUUlun divided. an men returning The real race to the polo no Mn. On March IS ' twenty-six miles were made and the nel day twenty-one. Then two niuie at the men returned, leaving only tu.i young Kskimos to accompany U: dujk- with two loaded sledees and twen-ty..-n dog. On March sixteen miles u.-re covered, tweiity-tilne miles on the i'lut. twenty-two the' following day and urierwarU for several duya an average of ieventeen or elKiitwn. Noar the nortnern edee of Oram Land a (Treat oiwn lead wa encountered, which waa crossed with some peril on the young Ice. Some days later after a seven storm the Ice spilt open under tne ifcloo, and Or. Cook In ins sleeping hag sank Into the crevice, being' drHiig'-.! to xateiy by the young r.nklmo. The advatH was halted by storma. In one of which the dogs were burled and In another tne men themnelves. To the west a new laud, named liradley Land by CooK. was sighted, extending from S3 de grees SI minute to fcJ degrees il minutes snd clou to the one hundred and second meridian. Or. Coo a own account of ms dash from ilradley Land to the pole is given below. J OVER the newly discovered coast lines uas written Kradley Land, in honor of John it. liradiey. the benefactor of the eapedi tlou. As we pMM-d uurtb of this laud there wa nothing aubbUutlal uxu which to tlx the eye. There Km at no Hum a rfectly clear borlxon. but the weather was good enough to permit frequent nauti cal observations. Thus day after day tbe marches were forced, tbe lucldeuta and tbe pu Itiotia were recorded, bat tbe adven tures were promptly forgotten to tbe mental bleat b of tbe next day's effort. Tbe night of April f wag made notable by tbe awiuf of tbe aun at midnight For a number of nlf.bts It made trim faces at na to Ita setting. A teasing mist, drawn as a curtain over tbe northern aea at midnight, had given dr. raaucMics a. cook. curious advantages for celestial atag lue; setting into tbla base, we were nuable to determine abarply the ad teat of tbe midnight suu. Now tbe great bulk waa drawn out egg bapl. wltb horizontal lloea drawn tb rough It. Agalo It waa pre su ed Into a toxin wltb naming Ores, burning behind a curtain of frosts; blue at other time. It appeared like a huge vane, and It required very little limigluatlon to sc purple and violet flowers. Tbe change waa often Ilk magic, tut tbe last display waa Invariably a fw-edlstorted faces of men or a al um U were made to suit our fancy. We had therefore followed the aun'a northward advance from In drat peep at mlddny above tbe aoutb Ire of tbe l'ur gateway to Ita aweep of the northern be at mldnlgbl. From hit fd .f the polar nlgbt lata In Febru ary to it first of tbe double daya and uiidhlgut anna w bad forced a trait through darkneaa. blood hardening ln., rsture and orer leg breaking lr-Ktitn-itlee of an unknown world of " to an area 200 tnllea from tbe pola. "ow we had tbe sun nnmlatakably t nildtiighl, and Ita new glory waa u!te an Incentive to our life of able r. Observations on April S placed 'np at latitude 80 degrees 3d mlm Wea. longltud 94 degree 2 minute. In aplte of what aeenied like long marchea we bnd advanced only KM miles In nine daya. Much of our bard ork waa lost In clrrultotta twists round troublesome pressure lines and h'fch. Irregular fielda of eery old Ice. Ta drift ke waa throwing us to tbe " with etimVlent force to glee oe -me anilety. bat wltb eyes clotted to Ganger and hardships tb double daya f fatigue and glitter quickly followed on another. The temperature, ranging ' between 3(1 and 40 degrees tielow tero kept Persistently near the frmlng point of "weary, and. though the perpetual on gav light and color to tbe cheer ft"'M. wer not Impressed " iny appretlabls aena of warmth. The 6 I i oowOwOw04oCsooovooo' OF THE fOLE o o Bradley Land Passed Steam . From Frozen Seas Half the o I !l o o o o Food Allowance Used Mad dening Effect of Polar Glit ter Despair of Ahwelah, "Beyond Is Impossible" -o- o o Ooeo40eo4oe)0oeoe)oe)o4o4oe Indeed, the sunbeams seemed to make the front of the air pierce wltb a more piiinful sting. There wag a weird play of orgies, seemingly most Impressive at this time cloud ,f atenm rose from the frozen sen, fn marching over, the golden tilltier snow acalda the face, while the nose Is blenched with frost. In cninp a grip of the knife left pnln fl burns from cold metal. To the frozen ringer the water waa hot. With wine aplrilH the lire whs lighted, whllp nil dcllgliied the xtotnach. In dreams heaven was hot. the other place was cold. All nature was false. We seemed to be ncarlng the chllted flame of a new hntles. In nr hard life there was nothing genuinely war in. The congen ial apiearniices were nil deception, but dear'i offentl only cold comfort. There was no Hdvaiitnge In suicide. We should have enjovitl this curious experience, but with endless ImmIIIv dis comforts, cnmbliied In aching muscles and an overleaping Inngtinr. there could ls no real Joys front the glories of na ture. The pleasure waa reserved for a later retrossct. We now -ti:in?et onr working hours from day to nigbt. tsgirinlng nsunlly at 10 and ending at 7. The big march es and prolonged hours of travel with which fortune favored us earlier were no longer s?sslble. Weather condi tions were more Important In deter mining the day's run than tbe bunds of the cbronoineiera. When the storms threatened tbe start was delayed, and In strong blows the march waa shortened, bul in one way or another we usually found a few burs In each torn of tbe dial dur ing which a march could be forced be tween winds. It mattered little wheth er we traveled night or day-all hours and all daya were alike to us for we bnd no accustomed time of rest, no fiindny. no holiday, no landmarks or mlleposta to pasa. To advance and ei pend tbe energy accumulated during one aleep at tbe coat of our pound of pemmlcan was tb on sole aim In life. Tte observations of April 11 gave latitude 7 degrees 20 minutes, longi tude minute l'J seconds. Tbe pack disturbance of Bradley Land waa less and less noted In tbe northward move ment Tbe fielda became heavier, lar ger and lf crevaased. We bnd now passed tbe highest reaches of sll our predecessors and bad gained tbe Inspiration of the far thest north for ourselves. The time waa at band, however, to consider seri ously the necessity of sn early return. .Nearly hslf of tbe food allowance bad been used. In tb long marches supplies bad been more liberally used than anticipated, and now our dog teams were much reduced In numbers. A bard necessity bad forced the cruel law of tbe survival or the fittest, for the less useful dogs were fed to th steady working survivors. Owing to the food limits and the advancing sea son we could not prudently continue the outward march a fortnight longer. We bad dragged ourselves aW miles over tbe polar aea In twenty-four days. Including delays snd detours, this gave so average of nearly thirteen miles dally on an air line In our course. There remained an unknown line of liw miles before our ambitions could In sa tinned. The same average ad vance w ok b we bad made on tbe pack would take ua to the pole lu thirteen days. There were food and fuel euougb to risk this adventure. In the diary of tbe succeeding daya' doings there appear numerous tabu lutioua of work and observations, la tbe new cracks tb thickness of tbe U e was measured. Tbe water waa es a mined tor life. Atmoapuerk'. surface water and ke temperature were lak eu. tbe barometer was noted, the i loud formations, weather coudltioua and h e drifts wer tabulated. 1 watched dully for possible signs of dangerous failure In strength, tor serious disability bow meant a fatal termiuatlou. A disabled man could neither con tinue nor return, but every etatnlua Uou gave aoother reason to push hu man endurance to tbe limit of tb strain of every Ober and celL Tbe Lurd work which followed, uuder an ocvaslousi burst of burulug sunbeama. brought lutens thirst. Forcing tb habit of tb camel, w managed to Uke euougb water before starting to keep sulbVleut I Mid lu the veins for tb day's march, but It was dlttk'Ult to await tb melting of th k at camping Hum. - In two sittings evening and morning-each took an average of three uuart of water dally. This Included tbe tea and also tb lutury of an oc casional soup. Tber wss water about everywhere In hvsps. but It was In crystals, and before th thirst could b quenched several ouncea of pre cious fuel, which bad been carried idousands of miles, must be used. And still this water, so egpeoalv and so necessary to us, ultimately became tb greatest ban to comfort It escaped through tb pores of tb akin, satu rated tb boots, force 1 a band of k-c onder th knee and a belt of frost about tb vrlat. wbU tb face was nearly always Incased in a mask of li-icles from tbe breath a necessary part of . our bard lot in life, and wi learned to take tbe torture philosoph ically. , , ' . ; From the eighty-seventh to tb eighty-eighth parallel we passed for two days over old Ice without pressur lines or hummocks. There waa no dis cernible! line of denia rent Inn for tb Heltlsand it Whs tjulie Impossible to determine if we -were on laifd or sea Ice. . The barometer Indicated no ele vation, but the Ice had Hie bard, wav ing 'curf ace of glacial ice. with only suiHTtlcial crevasses. The water ob tained from this was not salty, but ail of the upper surface of the Ice of toe polar sea mokes similar water. The nuuilcnl observations did not seem to Indicate a drift, but nevertheless "the combined tabulations do not warrant the positive assertion of either land or sen for this area. The ee gavp a cheering prospect. A plain of purple and blue ran in easy undulations to' the limits of vision t , 2"'-'?:Cf jTv wae wiar- , DB. COOK IS SJtCTIO CMTCVL without the usual tmrriera of uplifted blocks Over It a direct air line course was mmkIi. Progress, however, waa quite as dtrtlcuit as over tbe Irregular pack The snow waa crusted with large crystals. An Increased friction reduced tlie speed, while tbe surface, ton hard for snow-shoes, waa also too weak to give a secure footing. The lotK'iftiesM. tbe monotony, tbe hardship of stendy. uurelleved travel were now keenly felt. It Is not often that man'a horsepow er Is put to tbe test as ours waa. We were compelled to develop a working energy to the limit of animal capacity. Day after day we had pushed along at Ibe same steady pace over plaina of frost and through a mental desert Aa tbe eye opened at tbe end of ac Icy slnmber tbe fire waa lighted little by little, the stomacb was filled wltb liquid and solids, mostly cold enough to last for the day, for there could be no halt or waste of fuel for midday feeding. We next got Into harness and paced off tbe day'a pull under the lash of duty. We worked until stand ing became Imposslble-klonger In light w imls. shorter In strong winds, but al ways nntU tbe feet became numb and heavy. Then came the arduous task of build ing a anow hocae. !n tbla the eyes, no longer sble to wink, closed, but soon tbe empty stomach complained, and It waa filled up a gs In-not with things that pleased the palate, only bard fnel to feed tbe Inner tires, while tbe ear sought the soft side of Ice to dispel fatigue; no pleasure In mental recrea tion, nothing to amuse the soul from Its Icy Inclosure. To eat. to sleep, to press one foot ahead of the other, was our steady vo cation, like the horse to tbe cart, but we bad not bis advantage of an agree able climate and comfortable stable at night Words and pictures cannot adequate ly describe tbe maddening influence of this sameness of polar glitter, com bined with bitter winds, extreme cold and an overworked lanly. To me there was always the Inspiration of antici pation of the outcome of ultimate suc cess but for- my young savage com panions It was a torment almost be yond endurance. Their weariness waa made evident by a lax use of the whip and an Indifferent urging of the dogs. They were, however, brave and faith ful to the bitter end. seldom allowing selfish ambitions or uncontrollable passions seriously to lnterferwltn tb main effort or tb expedition. On tbe morning of April 13 strain of agitating torment reached a break ing point For daya there bad been a steady cutting wind from tb west which drove despair to Its lowest reaches." No torment fouhl be worse than that never ceasing rush of Icy air. Ahwe lah bent over his aled and refused to move. Ilia docs turned and looked In- oulrlnglv. I walked ever and stood by bis side. Etuklshuk cam near and stood motionless, staring blankly at tb soul hern skies. Large tears fell from Ahwrlab'a eyes and piled a little frost of sadness In tbe blue of bis own shad ow for several minutes. Not a word was uttered, but I knew that each felt that the time bnd come to free the fet ters of human passions. Slowly Abwt lab said. 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