Spirit of the age. [volume], October 12, 1912, Image 1

About Spirit of the age. [volume] (Woodstock, Vt.) 1845-1913

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THE
V1
WOODSTOCK, VERMONT
The People's Rights A Representative Eeir.ocracy The Union and the Constitution Without Any Infractions.
VOL. L. NO. 23 WHOLE NO. 4474.
SATURDAY. OCTOBER 12, 1912.
spirar
o
F
TAFT IS .WELCOMED TO WOODSTOCK
The President and Party Greeted by Hundreds of Citizens and
fcciiooi unudren a JLJnet bpeech and Luncheon at
Woodstock Inn President
Woodstock, for the socbnd-timo in
lier liiHtory, entertuinod tlio heud of
tlio imtion oii Tuesdny, imd gnve
Prnsidoiit Willinm llownrd Taft n
very cordial grecting .when ho Btop
;H(I hero fnrnn liour or two on his
tnur tlirougli Vermont and Noiv
llnmpsliire Fhigs and buutiug
u'Qio diHplnyed on iiuiny stores nnd
privntu reBidonces; tlio deeorntioim
finvo it lioliday uir to tlio villtigc,and.
in front of tlio Woodstock Inu.ulioro
n stiind had lieen erecled, wero gntli
erod G00 or 700 people, including
noiirly 300 soUnol cliildren, euch
ourryiiiR n tiny fllig.
Tlle party left Rutland nt 11.45,
roacliing horo nbout two Iioura hite",
hehind Rcliodulo timo on Dccount of
fruquont slops toullow tlio President
to spenk to schnol ohildien nnd otlier
ii9HHmbl.igos on tlio wny. Lnter.und
unofhVmlly.tho presidential cliaudeur
spokohotly of tlia exoessive grndes
in tliis soution of the Union.
In tho Preaidont's oar wero Mrs.
Taft and Misa Muhel Bonrdmnn.Mnjor
T. L. Rlioads.ilto President's aideund
phy-iicinn; in another cnr wore four
scoret sorvice nion, and a hagguge
ear followed.
The ladiea of the party, Mrs. Taft.
nnd Misa Mabel IWrdman, wero on
tertained liy Jndgo nnd Mrs. W. B.
Sanders"of Olevelnnd, frionds of tlio
President nnd Afrs Taft, who liavo
had tlio Warder Iioubo this Benson.
Tho party stoppod thero on en
tering the villago, tho President thon
coming to tho Inn proceded hy n
dotuil frotn Company G under com
magd of Snrgeant R V5 Doyco, the
militiumon lining up on both sides
of the wnlk at tho entranco, wliere
tlioy were stationed niitil the party
loft for Montpelier. Company Q was
on hand to render a salnte, tliough
possibly tlio jnveniles forgot it in
thoir eagerness and excitemeut.
Tho Preaiclent was leceived with
chcers aud ivaving of flngs us Iie en
tered the stiind'from which ho spoke,
and though not tinused to snuh de
jnnnstratious he seemed goniiinely
ploased at tho wolcomo, Tho cliil
dren sang two vorses of "America"J
with much fOrvor, especially tlio
very small oiies, and Hon,. William
E. Johnson introduced the distin
gui8hed gucsi.- "Ludioa and gontle
meu.your Preaident," ho said briefly,
nnd Presidonc Taft spoko iib follown:
1'ItKSIDKNT TAFT'S ADDIIESS.
First, I want to addreas tho dear
little cliildren. Ali this tnornitig
coming . down the. valloy at eacli
Bchoollionse ten or a (lozen or flfleen
or twenty ohildren cnmo but to wol
como me nnd I enjoyed neeing them
very much, nnd somohow or other I
thought they liked to Bee me. "Do
you think they did ahildicii ? (chorus)
" Yes." " Do yon like to seo tno? "
(chorus) "yes." "You know I
bolievo I cduld tell you why. You
Jcnoiv I am President of the United
Stntee and you love your country
and the man who is Presidout for
tho time-being repreBonts the wliole
country, doesn't he ? " ( chorus )
Yes." I think he does. Do you
atudy protty Jini d, otiildren ? Aro
you going to grow up to bo good
citizens hreynu? (ohorns) '.' Yes."
" Aud Homo of yoii to bo voters, or
nre iill'of yrtu to bo voters? Well, I
clon't kuow, I gneas you will havo to
get ready, nll of you, to bc'votors,
nnd you nniat study hard nnd. play
liard nnd hecomo good citizens.
If you becomo goo.d Vermontors you
will bo oertiiin to bccome good citi
zuns, us ajl Vernionters aro good
citizens. '
And now ladios and gentlemon of
Woodstock, it js a grent plcnsuro to
be horo. A greut plensuro to meot
Vermont people. I claim lo bo n
a Vermonter in qrigin myself. At
lenat my father was boni in Vermont
nnd ulwnys ptidod Jiimself on luiving
been born thore. My grnndfathor
wns born in MaasnchiiHotta, but ho
livod hero fif ty or sixty or sevonty
yenrs of his lifo nnd tlicn, having
nccjtlirod thnt perpotudt youth that
Monroe's Visit in 1817.
is common lo Vonnont, ho- wont out
to Ohio und tho air thero ufter ten or
fifteen years corried him off.
, tjpeaking seriously, it is ulwnys a
plensuro to como into u communily
und to sottlo in a cbmmunity thnt
lias sucli a high and honornble his-
tory ns Vormont. It is not a very
lnrgo ono und oveu, thnt whioh you
havo horo iu tlio wny of renl estate
is so much of it liko'the side of a
hoiiBO thnt thero is not a grent deal
to livo on, nnd yet in thoso valleys
und on iho plains of this Stato liave
lieen born the pcoplo who havegivon
much to tho Union. No ono can
ntudy tho history of tlio country
without understanding that the
olnim of Vormonters that tlioy Btnnd
as high iiB anybody in tho country
ns citizoiiB of our united couutry is
well foihided. I am not going into
history . to justify you in that beliof
becauBo I am with yoii alrendy nnd I
havo tho prejudice, perliapB, of n
Vermont mnn Thoro wna a Free
mu8onry in it that led them to stnnd
t'lgether nnd when tlioy 1 did they
usunlly cnme out hest in n trude.
I am not horo to mako n politicnl
Hpnech, but am hero for plensuro.
Your Congrefis thought it bost to sit
tlirougli a vncntion nnd so our vncu
lion wns pushed ulong into this
heautiful senfion. I do not think we
havo tho right to compluin, becnuso
it aeema to me tho timo when earth
enjoys herself moat aud throws out
her brilliant colors in rojoicing ovor
tl'o rlch hnrveat.
I am suro Vermont is with tho
rost of the country in ahnring the
rich hnrveat 'thnt is with us nnd 1
am suro yon descrvo it'nud-.I ntn j
glnd to seo tltnt Vermont is becoming
the homo of people who havo mnde
monoy elaowhere aud who aro com
ing horo to spend it. That is right,
I nm glad of it nnd I hopo; you get
out of them all that you can. I hope
thnt thisBtatn will bomado boautiful
with thoir homes aud tlio communi'
ties richor nnd huppior by their
coming.
I thnnk you sincorely.for tho wel
coino thnt you havo given us nnd
liope thnt all good luck inny nttend
you.
At tho conclusiou of his remnrks
a luiichoon wns givon tho President
by tho Woodstock Hotel compnny,
tho tubles being arranged nt ono ond
of tho big diniilg rqom, Tho sou
vonirs nt ench plato wero silk flags
nnd innplo eugnrcnkes tiod with rib
bous of patriotio huo, nnd n conter
pioco of dnwors wns ori the Presi
dont'H tablo. Among tho gucsts,
Imaides twe.hty Woodatock mon.wero
Senator W. P. Dillinghnm and
Ohairman F. C. Williams, of the
riepublicuu stnto committec, who
joinod Iho party hero.
While iPresident Taft wns diuing
at the Inn informnlly with his now
Vermont friotids ho put tho mnple
sugnr.in his pqckot n.luncheon wns
sorvcd nt tho resi'donco of- Judgo
nnd Mrs. Sanders, at which, besides
MiB Taft aud. Miss rtonrdmun, the
gucsta wero Mrs. Franklin 8. Bill
ingB, Mrs. Frodorio S. Leo, Mrs.
John French and Mrs. Jt R. Reod, n
frieud of Mra. Sanders who is stay
ing at the Inn.
Tho presidcntinl pnrty left. Wood
stock for Montpelier nt nbout 3
o'clock, ftoing by wny of Whito
River Junction, niid stopping -at
Randolph and Barre. Tho cnpitnl
was rcached two Iioura behiud
achodulo timo.
President Monroe's
Visit
in
1817.
It, is 05 years sinco a presfdentinl
itinornry hns includcri Woodstock,
tliough cliiof mngiatratoa havo often
visited Vermont. In 1817 Jnmos
Monroe, fifth president of tlieTJnited
States, in his firat tourof tlio countiy,
pnssed through this villago on
hnrseback -0t his way to Mont
pelier. An old book ownod by Mrs H. L.
Confieid, wrjtten hy S. Putnam
Waldo, and printed at Hartford,
Conn,, includos in a nnrrntivo of
President Mouroo's tour in 1817 a
fairly c.mploto Btory of his briof
visit to Woodstock.
On July 23d ho loft Windsor and
wns receivcd by tho citizens of
Woodstock " with such deinonatrn
tions of regnrd, ns are tho spontaii'
oous offerings of a free peoplo to a
respectod Chief Magisirnto. A pnrt
of the Coinmitteo of Arraugomeuts,
with n ravalcade of citizens, under
the directiou of Mr. iall, and a do
tnchmont of cavalry, cnmmanded by
Capt. Mack, met tlio President at
Hartlnud, nnd escortod hinvto Wood
stock.
A discharge of artillory announced
the arrival of tho President iu tho
villago, which ho entored on horso
back, atlO o'clock.A. M. Tho citizenb
wore foriued iu liues on each side of
the street ; nnd ns tho President ud-
vnnced townrd them, Jio nlightod ;
nnd, conducted by Mr. IJull, nnd ac
compunied by MrMaRon, his secre-
tnry, aud Col Sullivun, ho pasaed up.
the proueaaiou to Mr, Prutt's, wliere
ho was welcomed by Mr. Mnrah and
Mr. Swann, of tho Committeo of Ar-
rangcments, nnd receivod under the
discliargo of n untional salute, frotn
Oapt. Warner's compnny of artillory,
frohi nrnnrd."
Titus llutchinson, ono of the not-
ahlo raen orWoodatock, thon mado an
addreas, welcoming the President to
the town, to which tho laltor re-
spouded, oxpressing his gratitudo for
tho nttontiou nnd respcct which was
so liberally innnifestod to him.
Tho author Bnys that Woodstock,
nlthough a smnll plnco, hns thnt
Btriking mnteriul heauty which will
claim tho notice of tho trnvellor. " It
has a handnomo chiirch, a couit
houso, a prison, and niany liandbomo
private reBidences."
W. C. T. U. Elects Offic'ers.
.About 6o delegates were prcsetit
at the closing, sessions of the thirty
eighth nnhunl coiiyention of the
Wo.mnn's Christinn Tempernnce
Union nt Rutland hist.Fridny.
Officers were re-elected as fol-
low8 :
President, Mrs. Gratia fi. Dnvhl
S9n, Newfane; correspouding sccre
tary, Mrs, Minnie L. Penrsons, of
Orleans; recording secretury, Mrs.
Ellen B. Turner, of St. Jrdiusbury;
trensui'ef, Mrs. E. Mend Denny, of
Montpelier; nuditor, Mrs. Alice M.
Richardson, ot Montpelier; secre
tnry Youni People's brnuch, Mrs.
Snr.i M. Elrick, qf Swanton ; secrtf
tnry Loyal Tehipernnce Legion,
Mrs. W. A. VVheeler of Willinms
ville.
It is cstimnted thnt 6op ulclegntcb
from ull pnrts ot the statu will nttend
(he nnnuai Snndny school convention
at Bnrre Octdber 23 to 25.
L5ra(tlcboio hns- hnd n sudden
outbicalc of diphthcrin, but thecnses
are mild nnd 110 epidemic is feared.
The outbrcnk.is nscribed to "unrec
ognized" cases, those not reported
to the henlth ofliccr.
The Hyde Park Savings Bank.
ITS FJIBNOMBNAL OUOWTI.
Thp Hyde Pnrk Snvins Hnilk
offers to dcpositorH thnt firft qnd
inost impoitnnt ot nll csscntinls,
libsolute snfety.
Thnt this fact is fully understood
by nn nppreclntive public is shovvn
hy its phcnomcnnl and nlmost
Unprccedcnted growth.
The following tnblcshows cxnctly
the nmount ot thnt growth
July 1, 1889, Deposits $ 55,451.40
july 1, 1895, 37S.074-00
July 1, 1901, ' 603.071.73
July 1, 1907, 844,158.34
July 1,1912, ' 2.225,574.37
.Note thnt in the tivc yenrs trom
July .1, 1907, to July 1, 1912, the
gnin in deposits wns $1,381,416.03.
This menns thnt the net deposits
hnvc exceeded the withdrnwals hy
$900 pcr dny lbr evcry dny cxcep
Sundnys nnd legnl holidnys tfuring
the pnst fivc yenrs.
The dcpositing public "evidently
hnve grent fnith in the integrity,
conservntism nnd business sngncity
of the mnniigcrs of this thrif ty Ver
mont institution.
It pays 4 pcr cent. qn nll deposits,
little or big, nnd pnvs nll tnxes.
Stntemcnt of resourccs nnd linbili
tles, or nny other Incts rclating to
ihc bnnk, chcerfully lumishcd un
nppllcntion, Addrcss Cnrrqll S.
Pnge, President, ,or F. M. Culvcr,
Trcasurcr, Hyde Park, Vt
RANGER IS A HERO
)
Real Men to Be Found in Goeur
d'Alcne Resenatlon
Kow Captaln of Flre Flghtora, by
Coolneia and Bravery, Prevanted
Lota of Thlrty.ftva of Hlo Crew
In Northern Wooda.
B'olse, Idaho. Professor Wolllng,
tnnned nnd toughened by his sum
mar's work ln tho Coeur d'Alene na
tlonal forest rescrvntlon, hcld his
enstern vlsltors Bpellbound with
Btorlca of tho flght bo had helped to
mako agalnst tho fearful, forest flrcB,
says the Youth'a Compnnion. He hnd
gone out, with two others, under gov
ernment commlsslon, to Btudy tho -forest
nnd, coming back in August, they
had met the flrcs nnd spent almost a
month ln flghting their t way out of
them.
"Thero are. real men among heso
forest rangers," he wnt on. "In
fact, thero 1b no place, for anythlng
that is not genulne up there. The,
most thrillinff story of heroism that
I havo heard ln a long tlme ls tho
story of Itanger Pulaski. It did not '
happen ln the part of the rcaervatlon
whero I wae, but I can voueh for lts '
truth, for I havo talked with jiomo
of the men who were with him.
"Pulaski had forty men under him,
and they hnd been flghting a big flre
for hours. Suddenly the wind rose
until lt blew a gale. The flre got
beyond them, and lt became a ques
tion of saving tho llves of the men.
They were many mlles from a rail
road or a clearing.
"Pulaski rcmembered that about a
mllo from where they were working
was an abandoned mine shnft thnt
ran back about forty feet Into tho ,
hlllaldo. He ordered the men to
snatch thoir blanketa from .tho camp
and run for this shaft.- Onoe thero ,
they packed themselvcs llke sarulneo
Into tho holo. Pulaski placed him
eelf at tho openlng nnd stretched a
blanket across it.
"In a few minutes tho flre overtook
them. Tho blanket- at tho opcning
caught and Pulaski Jerkcd lt away.
Agaln an.d agaln this was done, nnd
when tho supply ot blankets ran low
ho held the burnlng fragments across
the mouth of the shaft with his bare
bnnds.
"Tho sufferlne of tho' men from the
heat and amoke was pitiful. They
were fairly xnaddencd by it, and some
of themmndo a wlld attempt to pusb
their way out of tho -Tshaft. For n
white Pulaskf held them back by
shocr phyalcal strengtb, for ho was
an unusuolly strong man. But ho
knew thnt ho must soon be overpow-
Sample of Protected Forests.
orcd, and that the men, in thcir
frenzy, would rush out to certnln
death. Ho drew his revolver nnd
Jold them thnt ho would kill the flrst
man to attempted to broak away. The
men know that' he meant lt, too, nnd
that knowlodgo brought them back to
reaeon.
"It wasn't moro than twenty min
utes befora the worst of the flre had'
paased the shafu When lt was safo
to crawl out they found thnt flvo of
the men wero. dend from oulfocatlon,
but tho other thlrty-flvo ivero nll
rlghi, Pulnskl, hlmoelf vran bllnded
nnd burned, but, his slght vratt pnrtly
restbred. He lost flvo men, to bo
oure, but with lesa courago ond prcs
cnco of mtnd he would hnve lost
them all. 1 take off my hat to such
a man. He 1b a real hero."
BREAKS JAIL TO FEED CATS
Nevada Mlner Trampa Forty Milea
That His Pets May Not Suffar
Aot May Brlng Freedom.
San Franclsco, Cal. When James
Watklns, a mlnor, was placed in lall
nt Bcarchllght, Nev.; recently, charged
with having stolen a pnir of lace cur
tatnB, he asked tho Jailor to seo that
his pot cats were fod. Tho jnlier
lnughed at him, but when night fell.
Watklns brohe jall and trnmped forty
milea 'across tho desert to nttend to
his pets. Tho sherlff followed him
next day ln a motor car nnd found
Watklns pourlng mllk for tho cats at
his cabln.
The chargo agalnst Watklns prob
ably will be dlsmlssed, his accusor
having; been lmpressod by the mlner'a
aJCectloB for hla pets.
WORST DESERT IN ALL ASIA
Hongwanjl Tample at Kyoto, Japan,
Crosses Takla-Makan Sand
In Thlrty Yoara.
Toklo, Japan. Rov Zulcho Tach
Ibona, a prlest of tho great West
Hongwanjl temple of Kyoto, re
turned to that place recently aft
or flvo yoara epont in explora
tlon in tho vlrgln parts of cential
Asla, wrltes a correspondent, HIS
Journoy was undertakon for purposes
of research undor tho lnstructlon of
Count Otanl, tho lord abbot ot tho
Hongwanjl tcmplo and an enthusi
aatlo gcographer. Mr. Tachlbann ls
d young man of twenty-two years oi
ago and of such dellcate physlquo that
tho natlves said he must bo a woman
dlsgulsed an a man.
Mr. Tachlbana proceedcd from Lon
don to Omsk and thenco by Btage
coach ln Semlpalatlnsk, thence ta
Turban In Slnklang ("the new terri
tory") passablo roads were found.
Durlng his ezploratlons Mr. Tachl
bana traveled across the Takla-Makan
desert, which he descrlbes as the
Sholterod at tho Edgo of the Desert,
worst of all deserts In central Asla.
Nelther birds nor even insects are
to be found there.
The deBert ia a sen of sand, where
there ia only tho wind to hear and
tho moon to see. Tho party constant
ly met sand mountains over 12,000
feet high, and tho men hegan to
grumble, fearlng that they would be
bured by the constant Bandstorms.
On arrlvlng at Qoma, on tho right
bank of tho River Tarlm, he caused
conslderablo frlgbt among tho uhep
herds, as his was tho flrst party from
tho south for thlrty years. At flrst
tho shepherds fled, but were brought
back. Tho feat of crosslng tho desert
caused, greatest revercnco by tho
shepherds.
At this point he left the camel cara
vnn to foliow n slowly, whilo he pro
ceeded on horseback to Kuchar
which place bo rcached atter thrc
days. This ls a largo town, thougb
not to be comparcd with clvlllzed
clties. "Novertheless," said Mr
Tachlbana, "I felt on entering it ai
though I had suddenly been put dows
in Piccadllly."
Some timo was spent in tho nelgh
borhood of Kashgar Investlgating th
buried clties, and ofterward the ex
plorer proceeded through tho vallej
to the. eastof Tzunllng to Khotan
tho dlstrlcts provlously oxplored bj
Dr. Steln, (now Sir Maro, Aurel Steln)
Thence tho party proceeded to Tlbet
for tho purposo of goologlcal ingestl
gntlon.
Soveral dlstrlcts ' wero visited "bj
Mr, Tachlbana' which had been omit
ted by J3t', Sven Hedin. Theso reglonf
aro absolutely blank on tho maps
and havo never .been vlslted beforo.
Ab soon aa tha records of the Jour
noy have been collated the llong
wanjl temple will Issue a report on
Mr. Tachlbana'o cxplorotion, whtct
will without doubt bo eagerly anttci
pated ln aclentiflc clrclea ln Kurope
and America aa well as in Asla.
STOWAWAY HEEDS A VISION
Ex'plalns That He Recclved a Dlvlno
Summbna to Proach to Benlghted
Cfilnese Is Shlpped Back.
San Franclaco Cal. Harold Yates,
a frlghtened youth, who had seeu a
vislon nnd started for tho Ornt to
preach. to tho Chlncso, was brought
back to San Franclsco On tho steamor
Nilo, which reaehed hero, recently;
Yates' "call," by wblch ho was sum
moned to Bprcnd the messago ot the
gospel among tho hcathen, led him to
stow away on tho steatner Manchurla,
which left hero Friday.
Captaln Frlolo of the Manchurla Iis
.tened to tho young man's nccount of
his vislon, after-ho had emerged from
his hldlng place, but declded that It
did not entltie Yates to free passage
and tho stowaway was transferred tc
the Nilo when. that vessel was met ln
nildb'cean.
Yates, who wns employed as a bell
boy at a local hotel, wns awakened
with dlfflculty last Friday mornlng by
another bellboy. Ho explalned that
he hnd been listening to a dlvlne sum
mons to tho mlssionary fleld and hur
rlcdly packed a few belonglngs and
boarded tho Manchurla, whero ho hld
ln tho hold.
Hugo Telescope Dedlcatect.
Pittstrtirg, Pa.-A now SO-lneh photo
graphlo refractor telescope, valued at
$160,000, said to be the tblrd largest,
Instrument of lts kind ln the world,
was dedlcnted at the Allegheny obsen
vatory, ntvervlew park, ln the pres
enco ot a dlstlngulahed party of aclen
tLsts and visltora.
40limpsofNap
IT IS tho early blrd that catchea
tho worm and lt ls Naples
that usually flrst catchos tho
tourist from the States;
when he ls fresh, when he
Is bulglng as the caso may bo somo
tlmes with tho fat of many Amerlcan
dollars. Mllan, to bo sure, enapplng
at the tourist from the north, displnys
to a much iesBor degreo a somowbat
slmllar characterlatlc; but as the vie
tlm has alrcady had his flrst lesson
his fall having been broken, so to
speak, by a moro or less gradual de
scent through Franco, with lts own
army of "pay-pay-pays,". thero Is real
ly no coniparlson.
Having contemplated with rapture
from aboard your ship tho toally mag
nlficent harbor; tho plcturesquo shlpa,
their cafla and rlgging enveloped ln
rose-colored vapors that havo caught
tho rays of the sun; tho not far-djgl
tant Vesuvius batbed ln rospiondent
mornlng mlsts, and formlng a part of
all this rlot of atmospherlc glamor;
everything around you suggestlng the
presence of lifo and human anlmattou
and Btlrring something wny down ln
thefl depths of you you aro suddenly
aud rudely awakened to the ezlgent
realltles of tho situatlon, onco you are
on shore; having lgnored a premonl
tlon ln the nalced boy dlvlng for pcn
nies in your wrapt admiration of his
astonlshlng skill.
If you aro a prospectlvo travelor of
tho malo pqrsuaslon, not overbur
dencd with money, tako warning, leayo
your trunk behlnd, and if -possltile
your padded shoulders; they will both
proye a draln on tho purse. Bo sure
and take a Baedeker; it Is lndls '
pen&able but do not flaunt lt ln pub
lic placeo; you are rccognlzed with'
out lt, and to cxpose lts red covers lo
tho air ls to throw out a challenge.
which the atroot' merchant, tho. shop
keeper, tho tcotaurant man and tho
street gamin are not slow to accopt.
It 1b lnterprcted ns a symbol, a proot
of your being a stranger and green;
a proof of your being' ablo to afford a
Baedeker and therefore;'other thlngs;
a proof also of your curloslty, and
henco suggesting yoiir B'ijBcoptlbillty
to teniptatlons,
' Having pasaed the customs, the
cabby is tho flrst to tako a peek at
you and lf you havo that trunk, the
Cbrd holp you! Tc bo suro, 'you aro
ln a taxi; and the "tarlft" dlal starea
you openiy' ln the face; but eomehow
or other the cabby manages to cop
vlnco you that lt ls thero only as an
srnamcnt anyway, there's the trunkl
Ten to one the rascally chap does
not depart without extortlng 'from you
employing no vlolence a faro threo
tlmea over, and "will not refraln from
sUggesting. that yqu owe him a tlpt
You Arrlve.
You are landod, at the rocommondn
tion of a frlend, in ono of those" curi
9us arched halhvays, whero tho cabby,
wlnklng his left ey.o when you are not
tooklng, passes you on to the portor,
who emerges from a little dark room,
to'dark that lt Ia only after hearlng
yolcea wlihin, that you peor In nnd dls
iern the palcness of a faco hore and
ihoro and beglnto.wonder how pcoplo
ould llvo ln the dark, Hke rats, and
the suu shlnlng ln the street! Whilo
waltlng for 'the landlady. you take a
'ook nbout.
You aro on Vla Vnrdones, nnd you
look up and down tho plcturesquo
.street, famous for Donlzottl'B real-.
ienco hero, and lntamoua for one of
the assassinatlons which flgured' ln
the recent Cammorra trials. Blrty,
but plcturequo! Unevenly strotches
thla thoroughfaro ot tall old teno
.ments, down' grade, toward Piezra
Fcrdlnando, w'hore aovoral streeta con
iverge, Uko tho spokc's of a wheel. On
some of thoi largor streeta of Naplos
tho sidewalks aro. largo enough to let
two persons walk abreast, lf thoy are
lovers, but "Vla Vardones has 'no side
walks at all. Where sidewalks should
be women alt around and perform
their hotisehold duties; some aro
shelllng peas, others aro washlng
c'.othes: a young mother Is rebindlns
hor baby, who a momont before lay
ln hla'crlb as naked aa a cherub. Horo
you seo a pail lowered oa a rope from
tho fourth Btory: tho hawkoy fllla" II
with Yegotablea. and thon tho pail1 '
Bhoota up agaln; there ln tho dlstanco
you seo a goat mllked at so much
per glass before tho customer'a very
oycs; yonder ls a cart full ot Bnalls;
other edlblea are ln slght, and ln your
confusod consclenceness the smells ot
these mlnglo with the woll-nlgh ln
terminablo cries ot the venders, the
chatter of women, tho nolsomouoaa ot
shildron.
At last, after a long walt, here ls
tho landlady; a middlo-aged, prema
turely wrinkled woman, with very
shrewd eyes, which' examlne you with
a curiouB and careful scrutlny. You
ascend with her laborloualy up tho
wldo stone Btalra, mado of lava. as we
later dlscovered to tho fourth story,
nnd, passlng along a number of curi-ous-
long corrldora which run roostly
around tho arcaway of tho Bkyllght,
contered ln the buildlng, we como
upon a small door, presenting even a
moro exaggerated dlmlnutivo appear-
ance because of tho Jamb that ls sure
ly at least two feet in dopth. Your
.flrst feellng is that you aro about to
enter a vault, an, impresslon that ia
qulckly dlsslpnted onco you cnter tho
room, which ls very largo and even
more amazl'ngly high. Other much
larger doors aro horo, leadlng" to other
rooms, overhung heavjly "with curtalns
nnd draperics, leadlng to tho balcony
.ovorlooklng two atreoto.
You Haggle.
Then beglna the haggllng about the
prlco; you are expdcted, followingtKo
advlco of the guidebooks, "to preservo
oufwardly a calm demeanor," "Out
wardly" should, bo. in ltallcs, for cor
talnly insldo of' you you aro bolllng
with rago aa you watch tho volublo
landlady gesticulatlng, expoBtulatlng,
arguing, harangufng, woxlng eloquent,
puttlng all her faclal mtfaeles into
play, Jike an emotio'nal acrtess; and
all 'of this to lmpresaiyou with tho
fact that the room ls cheap "nt her
prlco. You are helplcss agalnst tho
torrential outpour of words; nll you
can do, not knowlng tho lariguage, ls
to n'amo your prlco and say "Bastal"
it ls nn Indlsponsablo word, nnd menna
"enough j" you niiist say lt qulckly, de
cialvely, leavlng no doubt as to your
moanlng. Then Bhake. your head and
hodgq away to tho dopi" never fear,
8110 ypn't let yo'u go. You effect a
compromlso, and lmmedlatcly you
pny her a deposlt licr faco smiles llke
tho sun after a storm. Then 'you aro
taken in hand by tho porter ph, yes,
that trunk! Drat that trunk!
Thnt night we returned to our apart
ment a trlfle pnst mldnlght. Tho por
tor, Blttlng ln his dark holo by dlm
candlellght, opcned his eyes drowsiiy.
We put Into his hnnd 50' centesimi, a
Iegallzed .exactlon. .which Naples en-'
torces upon strollers yho turn in aftor
12 o'clock, Those long c'orridors had
a slnlster lbok by night, and thla as
pect of tho. place was lncreased by tho
dcad aljenco and darkness of the largo
house. Upon entering our room we
faBtened tlie door on lts flhriay latch.
Tho fecble fllcker of the candle ln
that enormous room falled to shed
llght ln tho corners, and the apart
ment a.Ssumed tha forbidding chnrac
ter of somo great underworidi "We ex-.
amlned suBplclouBly tho largo doors;
thero waB no way of knowlng whether
,they wore fastened or not, and from
behlnd tliem, could, po heard. tho rogu
lar deep breathing'ofbhie orie'asleepj -The
huge mlrrored wardrobo next fell
under our investlgatloh, and ihat yield
ed nelther a llvo Cammorist, nor' tho'
Bkeleton of a victlm but only a wom
an's largo hat Thus reassured, we
undressed, put .but tho llght, and went
to bed Foiv a long tlme, howover, I
lay thlnklng what an iincanny place
lt was; and' yialona of tho House
of TJsher and tho murderous Catn
morists presented homaclves before
my oyes, but, thanks tq the fatlgue; of
a strenuous day ot Blght-se'eing, thoso
gradually becamo a blur and flnally
were altogether lost ln sleep. After
the flrst night this feellng of appre
henslon wore off. Aftor all, Naples Is
bullt up almost entlrejy of just such
housest To be suro, thero ls tho new
quarter, with lts large, pretontious
looklng hotela, mado to accommodafe
Engllah and Amerlcan vlsitora -but
ij Ia not ln this quarter that Neapol-
Itan Ilfo ln to be atudled.