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The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, February 03, 1917, Image 7

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THEBBOAI AX, CHICAGO FEBBUABY 3, 1917.
PAGE. SEViaf
-
PHILANTHROPIST
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ABOUT YOUR RUGS
PARIS NOTES.
JUST A TROTTEUR.
FOR AFTERNOONS.
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311 i
The Loyal Alumna and Trustee
Makes a New Gift.
REMEMBERS HER ALMA MATER
Mrs. Sage Makes a Double Contribu
tion to the School Already Endowed
by Her Husband In Appreciation of
His Wife's Early Education.
Mrs. Russell Sage, a graduate of the
Emma Willard school, is continuing
her benefactions to that institution.
Its founder was pre-eminently a
pioneer in securing higher education
for women in this country, and she
wis aided in her efforts by such men
as Governor DeWitt Clinton, John Ad
ams and Thomas Jefferson. From the
beginning high intellectual and social
standards were maintained at the in-
mbs. russell sage.
stitution, and at the time of the visit
to America of Marquis de Lafayette
no school for wouieir ranked higher
in this country than did Mrs. Wil
lard's. During his stay in New York
state General Lafayette was entertain
ed at the school by Mrs. Willard, and
he was so favorably impressed that he
complimented the founder highly and
extended special courtesies to her on
the occasion of her visit to France.
While the school has had a constant
career of success during the eight dec
ades and more that it has been in ex
istence, it has been especially favored
of late in the efforts of the alumnae
to have it hold among schools of today
the same rank that it did in earlier
times. The old seminary buildings
have been replaced by handsome mod
ern structures. Many alumnae have
contributed to the cost
One of the most beautiful and impres
sive of these buildings is Bussell Sage
hall, which was donated and furnish
ed by the late Russell Sage as an
evidence of his appreciation of the
work and aim of the i itution from
which his wife was graduated and of
whose alumnae association she is and
lias been for some time a loyal mem
ber. The trustees of the institution an
nounced recently that, continuing her
line of great benevolence toward this
school and the new Russell Sage Col
lege of rractical Arts, Mrs. Kussell
Sage had given S250.0U0 toward the ad
vancement of the work of this latter
institution.
Tlie only requirement is that the
money will be used the same way as
the original gift of a like amount a
year ago. to establish the college. A1-.
together this makes half a million dol
lars given by Mrs. Sage for this new
M'llOoI.
Cleaning Shiny Serge.
If anybody could invent a process to
renie the shine from a worn suit his
or her fortune would be assured. The
shine cannot be permanently removed
from any material, but it can be so
treated that it will keep its shiny face
in the background for a little while.
1'irst of all. brush the garment well.
Then purchase a lump of ammonia
from a drug store and dissolve it in
one pint of boiling water. With an
old stocking this is better than any
other cloth dipped in the ammonia so
lution rub the shiny part backward
ami forward. Wash off the ammonia
with u brush and clean hot water.
Hang the suit up to dry in the shade.
When piossing the garment wet It with
hot ui: boiling) water instead of cold.
Luj i'te cloth on the suit and press
ith a hot iron until dry. Then wet
the doth again and iron lightly, but not
enough to dry the cloth. It is this lat
ter treatment that gives the material
the dull new fluish to take the place
of the old shine.
Bran Muffins.
One-half cupful of bran, one and one
half cupfais of flour, one-quarter cup
Q1 of sugar, one tablespoonful of but
ter, one gg, one cupful of milk, one
teospoonful of salt, four teaspoonfuls
of haking powder. Sift the flour, bak
,nS powder, sugar and then the .bran
together; add milk gradually, then
eU beaten egg and melted butter.
fcke In hot oven in gem or iron pans
ty to thirty minutes.
What the Parisians Are
Turning Out For Spring.
Hk
--X
What is lost in the width pt the new
skirts for spring is added to the length
in the proportion of a yard to an inch.
Skirts are now Inches longer and cer
tainly yards narrower. Where they
were ten and twelve inches from the
ground, they are now six or seven. As
if this were not change enough, there
is a new silhouette introduced, and
that is one that closely resembles a
barrel as far as the skirt is concern
ed. This is probably inspired by the
Turkish skirt that was shown by sev
eral of the couturiers last spring. At
any rate, there are a number of the
largest creators in Paris who show
skirts of this description.
Paquin uses it in an afternoon gown
with a Russian blouse effect in the
fastenings of the buttons down one
side. Otherwise the frock has straight
lines that is, the waist is not fitted
snugly as it Is in many of the new
spring creations.
Jenny fashions a coat with this "ton
neau" or barrel skirt of light gray
broadcloth, made with the trimming
of many rows of stitching in a darker
shade of gray. The barrel effect is in
troduced between straight panels in
the front, sides and back of the coat
Even coat suits are showing the bar
rel skirt, and one sponsored by an
expert is of checks of blue and white,
trimmed with Roumanian embroidery.
The jacket of this suit is hip length,
as are many of the suits for spring for
this house.
Premet uses this type of skirt in an
afternoon frock of two materials.
They are joined just below tfie hips,
and at this point the skirt is much
wider than at the bottom where it is
drawn in considerably.
From these various couturiers it will
be seen that there is every chance that
skirts of this description will be very
much the mode for the early spring
frock. They are not unattractive, es
pecially if they are not exaggerated
in line. Most of the frocks with such
a skirt nre sure to have the waist fit a
bit more snugly, for the outline then is
wider at the shoulders than at the
waist, when the line goes in, and it un
dulates -from that point to greater
width at the knees and narrows con
siderably at the bottom.
EMBROIDERY HINTS.
Designs That Children Love on Their
Belongings.
For nursery fittings, baby blankets,
bibs and pinafores are these delecta
ble animals, all friends of small tots.
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THE MENAGERIE.
They may be done in linen, silk or
wool embroideries and used as medal
lions or as friezes. They are easily
copied.
Hats For Evening.
The edict of the French government
that hats and simple gowns must be
worn iu the evening in public has al
ready brought about the fashion in
this country. Milliners are delighted
over the change. They are offering all
manner of brilliant and expensive hats
to wear with low evening gowns. It
has been a half dozen years or more
since this fashion was accepted in
America. Today one sees more than
half a dozen fashionable women in the
restaurants in the evening adopting it
The majority of these evening hats
are of silver tulle or bullion cloth.
New Sweaters.
Most of the new sweaters, whether
of Angora or of the various yam
weaves, are made to slip over the head.
They are ample- below the waist and
have apron string belts and cravats,
the former tying the rather loose gar
ment in about the waist The more
Frenchy kinds have yokes and button
adornments.
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FOR LITTLE FOLKS
Sleepy Time Story About a Very
Interesting Creature.
HOW A BIRD LIVES IN WINTER.
Little Feathered Cold Weather Resi
dent of the Woods Stores Up Food
For Hard Times How Its Nest Is
Safeguarded Against Attack.
Well, said Uncle Ben to Little Ned
and Polly Ann, I am going to tell you
about the
O C
TREE MOUSE.
No doubt you think you can do won
ders since you've learned to turn hand
springs, Master Ned, but there's a lit
tle white breasted bird that hops about
on ourtrees every morning that can
give you or any little boy I know ol
points in exercising. '
The name of the bird? Well, some
people call him a tree mouse, and oth
ers call him a nuthntch. He is part
bluish gray, part black and part white.
He does not look much like a mouse to
me, but the way he can run up and
down the limbs of trees, hanging now
to the underside or running along head
downward, makes one think of a fly.
The little nuthatch Is one of our win
ter birds, for he does not leave us
when cold weather comes, as so many
of our birds do.
You see, his food can be picked up
nearly all the year round. He is one of
those birds that get the worms from
under the bark, and grubs and insect
eggs are delicious morsels to him.
The little nuthatch is a thrifty bird.
Like the squirrel in the fall, he lays
away a store of food for hard times.
When cold weather comes he goes to
the tree in a crack of which he may
have stuck the little nuts of which he
is so fond and draws out a nut. Beech
nuts are favorites. He can crack the
shells of these with his long, sharp bill
in a short time. Then, cocking his little
head on one side, be bolts the nut meat
with the greatest enjoyment
Put some kernels of dried corn out
for him on a feeding board or some
cracked hickory nuts and see how
pleased the nuthatch will be.
This lively little bird likes hazelnuts,
chestnuts, sunflower seeds and grains.
In the winter one sees him in the com
pany of the chickadees, the juncos,
buntings and winter wrens, the downy
woodpecker and the winter sparrows.
In spring these nuthatches build
nests in the hollows of trees. Perhaps
they fear the red squirrels, the snakes
or the mice in the neighborhood. At
any rate, they gather pitch and sticky
balsams from the trees and smear it
about the outside of the holes in which
they make their nests and lay their
eggs.
Often when the nuthatches are in a
hurry they forget about this sticky
doormat and go flitting carelessly over
It so that It catches on their own tails,
and before they can get loose they ftave
to wrench out some of their feathers.
Just the same, the little nuthatch is
one of the nimblest little creatures you
will ever see and is well worth watch
ing. The New Paint Box.
Little artist here Is an idea for you.
Isn't it troublesome to keep brushes
clean when you have to color the little
girl's dress blue, her hair brown and
her shoes black? Make yourself a blot
ting ball out of crushed blotters sewed
up in a piece of cheesecloth. When
your brush is touched on this ball the
color is quickly absorbed, and it is
clean for the next shade.
Fun on the Ice.
Now is the season for the lovers of
winter sports, which include all boys
and girls and a goodly percentage of
grown folks. One of the most healthful
of outdoor exercises Is that of skating.
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Photo by American Press Association.
THE SKATES.
and it Is highly enjoyable. Happy lads
and lasses throng the ponds and feel
the thrill of gliding over the smooth
ice. Skating promotes grace of move
ment, as nearly every muscle is
brought into play. Care should be
taken, however, not to exercise until
exhaustion comes, because that takes
away all the good of.the sport
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Sensible Gown For
Merely Everyday Wear.
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Back we swing to just serviceable
navy gaberdine attractively trimmed
with an embroidered belt -satin collar
PLEASED WITH IT.
and cuffs and two silk tassels instead
of a tie. The hip fullness secretes volu
minous pockets just for convenience.
ROAST GOOSE.
The Way Mother Used to Get That
Remarkable Flavor.
A green goose from three to four
months old Is a great delicacy and is
cooked like a game bird without stuff
ing. Season inside and out with 6alt
and pepper, put half a white onion in
side to absorb any strong taste, dredge
the outside with flour and roast in a
hot oven for about an hour. Serve
with boiled white onions and apple
sauce.
For an older goose and, even so, it
should not be more than a year old
you may use the time honored stuffing
of potatoes and sage. Having thor
oughly cleaned and washed the bird in
soda water, remove all the fat that can
be reached from under the skin or in
side. This may be saved and tried out
to use later for goose grease. To make
the stuffing boil for twenty minutes or
half an hour a half dozen potatoes.
Peel and mash, adding to them a table
spoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of pep
per, a teaspoonful of powdered sage
and two tablespoonfuls of white onions
minced and fried yellow in butter. Mix
these ingredients lightly together, then
bind with two tablespoonfuls of melted
butter. Season the goose on the inside
with salt
High Shoes Worn.
Last winter many women wore low
shoes in the street throughout the
worst weather. Now unless a woman
steps from a limousine or a taxi she is
seldom seen courting pneumonia.
Those who are on their way to after
noon functions requiring elaborate
dress generally slip on a pair of silk
gaiters which are in keeping with the
costume and may be slipped off on ar
rival at destination. There might be
some question of correctness in wear
ing these spats with a crepe or chiffon
afternoon dress if kept on after the
coat was removed. Black patent after
noon pumps or slippers nre worn with
stockings which match the gown.
Fillet Lace Trimming.
New blouses show fillet lace used ex
tensively as trimming. This fashion
began in November, but was not wide
ly taken up until the present month.
The usual form the fillet lace takes is a
wide turnover collar extending into a
broad panel that runs to the waist in
front and deep cuffs that fit the wrists
and are fastened with small lace but
tons. Although the lace Is sometimes
nut on handkerchief linen blouses, the
most fashionable combination is with
crepe de chine and georgette crepe.
New Sport Hats.
Hats introduced for Palm Beach, Ai
ken and the spring sporting events are
high crowned, pot shaped, made of
fuzzy felt They are done in brilliant
yellow more than any other color, and
the novelty is that they are cross
stitched in black worsted threads in a
loose, negligent manner. In the front
or at the side the two edges of the ma
terials are brought together and laced
with the black thread.
Block Print Trimming.
The newest sport suits for the south
sent over by Callot show a block de
sign in colors used as a border for
skirt and Jacket Large blocks of In
dian red will be used on a cream col
ored silk Jersey suit
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A Short History of Their Earl
Origins and Kinds.
RAG ONES ARE AMERICAN,
A Word About the Two Methods Which
Give Woven and Tufted Carpetings.
Before You Buy Prime Yourself
About the Different Kinds.
Most rugs are made according to one
of two methods, which gives us woven
and tufted carpetings. The latter is
distinctly oriental and Is made upon
a foundation warp composed of hemp
en, woolen or silk threads. The num
ber of these threads depends upon the
breadth of the rug and Its desired fine
ness or coarseness. Lengths of col
.ored wool or the hair of a camel 01
goat or silken threads are knotted on
to the warp threads, with the two ends
of the individual twists standing up.
What is called a weft thread Is then
run across the warp and another line
of tufts made. The whole is brought
securely together by means of a hand
instrument, the ends of the tufts clip
ped to an equal length by expert fin
gers, and thus a tufted rug Is completed.
Writing In 1G32, Pierre Dupont, a
master carpet maker of Paris, said he
was convinced that rug weaving was
taught to the French by the Saracens
after the latter bad suffered defeat at
the hands of Charles Martel in T2G.
The middle ages found the art flour
ishing all over Europe and especially in
France and Flanders. Colbert, minis
ter of Louis XIV., who did so much to
aid the birth of industrial France, es
tablished the Hotel des Gobelins in
1067 as a state manufactory, and the
enterprise grew to be one of the nota
ble institutions of the realm.
In 1701 William III. of England
granted royal charters to weavers in
Wilton and Axmlnster, towns which
were to give their names to types of
carpeting that have come down to the
present day. The fame of the Wilton
rug was largely due to Henry, earl of
Pembroke and Montgomery, who
brought'two Frenchmen, Antoine Du
fossy and Pierre Jemale, to England
and put them in charge of operations
at Wilton. Their skill and enterprise
won fame for the establishment in a
little while. Other French and Flemish
weavers followed, and the industry
was fairly launched.
The opening of the nineteenth cen
tury saw much experimentation in the
effort to produce a satisfactory ma
chine made carpeting. Erastus B. Bige
low, an American, and William Wood,
an Englishman, perfected the Jacquard
loom to a point where it could be de
pended upon to turn out a uniform
product of good quality. The passing
years have witnessed further impor
tant development and results are now
accomplished by mechanical process
that will stand the test of comparison
with the hand made article.
Not until 1SS0 did the French turn to
machinery for carpet weaving, and
they at first adopted English machin
ery to a great extent So it was that
the art first crossed the channel and
then came back in a different form
after the lapse of centuries.
In America we have produced at
least one kind of floor covering which
we may claim as our own the rag
rug. In colonial times rag rugs were
made in considerable numbers, and it
was deemed a fine accomplishment for
a woman. Much ingenuity was shown
in the matching of colors.
JUST LIKE MOTHER'S.
A Silk Sweater That Promises Wide
Popularity.
This interesting garment is of pink
spun silk, cut with a deep detachable
so BLASE.
collar that fastens with four snap-on
buttons, a wide belt and patch pock
ets. Small persons find these west
ers a joy.
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A House Gown For Wintry
Days and Also Matinees.
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The fabric is gingersnap brown crepe
de chine set off with-fur bands. Be
neath the skirt tucks fall georgette
crape to take the banding, while crape
ball buttons trim the waist and cuffs.
The girdle is corded three times.
FAMILY SEWING.
How to Economize Labor For the
Seamstress or Mother.
The mother of a family of little ones
who must be housekeeper, cook, nurse
maid and seamstress as well as mother
often wishes that she had two pairs of
hands and four eyes." Sometimes she
wishes that the days might be longer
or the hours less fleeting.
There Is only one solution of the busy
mother's problem, and that is to sys
tematize all the branches of her work
so that the very smallest amount of
time and labor will be consumed in the
various tasks, and there Is no work
where system Is more generally misun
derstood or to which it may be more
readily applied than the family sew
ing. By family sewing is meant the
making of practical clothes for both
mother and children, such as under
wear, dresses, guimpes, aprons and
rompers, wh'ich are changed every day
and for that reason must be simple of
construction and durable enough to
look well after many trips to the wash
tub. A word about materials is important
for here is where the real saving of la
bor and time is to be gained. There is
absolutely no economy in buying cheap
materials for smuli children's clothes.
yet it is not necessary to spend large
sums for them. There are excellent
materials made especially for chil
dren's clothes and designed to with
stand the wear and washing that will
be given these garments. Frequently
on remnant counters one can procure
excellent goods that have been greatly
reduced in price, but it never pays
to buy cheap calico. Well made gar
ments of durable materials are an asset
In a family of small children, for such
garments may be passed along as one
child outgrows them, thus lessening
the labor of sewing.
After carefully selecting the various
materials with a view to their wearing
qualities and fastness of color, make an
intelligent selection of patterns by
which each garment isvto be cut It
will be well to consider what consti
tutes an Intelligent selection of pat
terns. First The purpose for which the
garment is to be used..
Second. The actual work required in
making.
Remember that straight seams are
easier to stitch than curved ones, that
tucks and plaits require time and are
difficult to iron; that excessive fullness
makes both washing and ironing more
laborious and, like tucks and plaits, re
quires extra material; that garments
which may be adjusted by slipping on
over the head ellmluate the need of
time for making buttonholes and sew
ing on buttons and that patterns with
a small number of pieces save time in
cutting and sewing.
Two or three buttonholes to a gar
ment are not much of a task to a wo
man with nimble Angers, who picks up
such work between times while cook
ing or watching the little ones at play,
but where a number are needed it is
best to buy buttonhole and button
strips by the yard, ready to stitch un
der the laps of dresses and rompers.
Wing Effects Graceful.
Wing effects at the back of evening
dresses are distinctive. They are gen
erally produced by tulle draperies, and
these are often garnished with metal
threads. They float gracefully about
the arms and also fall over the train at
the back.
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