The morning times. [volume], September 29, 1895, Part 2, Page 15, Image 15

About The morning times. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1895-1897

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THE 3IORHTyG TIMES, SUJTDAY, SEPTEBEB 29, 1895.
15
lit Fail Q.omn$
AUTUMN FUNCTIONS TO REVEAL
KALEIDOSCOIMC SCENES.
Deep Damson, Acid Reds and
Ocean Blues Among- the
New Shades.
New York, Sept. 28, 1593. The drcES
makera, like publishers of magazines, al
ways work a month ahead of publication.
Your really, truly well-dressed woman,
whose every sown Is a guide-post along
the path of fashion. Is still la the country
houses of her friends. Retting her last
wearlngsoutof ber demi-season things.
:-c
Dlnck Lace Gown.
But nil the while In quiet October, the
artistes of the needle are cutting, fitting
and scheming for what Is to be worn dur
ing November, December and even as late
as January. The model rooms are full of
lay figures and draping forms, wearing
gowns for horse show' week and dinner
toilets for the mad galties that Immediately
precede and succeed Christmas holidays.
They all, when drawn in battle array,
show a most wonderful, flaunting, daring,
flashing assemblage of new colors, vary
ing from tlie rich, deep damson shades,
npid looking reds, and clear, restful, dark
ocean blues, to an aggressive Algerian
yellow, that none but the darkestrbrowed
woman In the world could carry off with
anything Ilka effect. Heap on to these
new departures In tints and tones all the
Jewels your imagination can conjuro up
and you can form some idea of the splen
did picture drawing-rooms will present a
little later in the season.
Many women" will wear velvet, and all of
"White Silk Frock.
them, from the tendcrest bud up, will use
an abundance of gems, that along with
tho revival of laces, on a scale never
known before. This promises to be a
memorable winter in the annals of fash
Ion. This general glitter and gorgcous
ncs, 'tis whispered. Is a profoundly able
trick of those masterly wire-pullers of
fashion, to cover the prevailing paucity
of now ideas as to skirt cutting and trim
mings and the absence of anything to take
the place of the bag front bodice.
But women are going to be very con
tented with full fronts for a long time to
come, since like the large sleeves 'tis a
Joy to the stout sister, a boon to the thin
one and on the basis of the skirt of '96
enough variety is being Introduced to
warn off anything like monotony. For
example, a great manyofthenew ones are
being laid In four, 6lx, or ten great
wedged shaped box pleats, from the waist
down and tbe pleats treated with delicate
points of lace, raying out from the belt.
There is a relief afforded in the use of
light falling draperies of lace or illusion,
ruffling out on the back scams, there are
panels let in, flower like bows of ribbon
pinned on one hip, with the ends to touch
tbe floor, or such gorgeous silks are used
in the make up that anyapplied tnmmlhg
would seem a tacrilege. A happy thought,
Indeed, has been the bringing back to
use of lace In whole gowns, the black
of Chantilly, the white of llonlton by
selection and no color yet permitted to
mar their neutral beauty and great grace
fulness. TWO TONES OF THE SAME SHADE.
To get back to our original muttons,
however, 11 will be as -well to tell those
thirsting Tor knowledge that the whole prin
ciple of color combinations this winter will
be that of the tint and shade of the same
hue. Red and pink, black and grey, or two
tones of green Is the method of tho smart
dressmaker who Is planning a street or din
ner dress.
In exemplification picture the little dinner
gown of the sketch, made for the blonde.
Miss Blight, so famous all summer for her
bellcshlp at Newport. In this Instance the
skirt Is of rich gros grain silk, the ground
a most delicate plumbago blue ombred In
broad bands, of a shade the water shows
In mid-ocean. Her bodice, of the same silk,
has lis sleeves and square neck trimmed
with white English point lace, while round
her waist is drawn a scarf of plumbago blue
Illusion, tied In a great bow under the bust
with 'waving ends to. touch her slipper toes.
Tho slenderer a woman Is, by tho way.
tha more ber dressmaker will tie about
bar walit and twist Into bows In front
of b,er tilt, but there must be only a
band's breadth of woman Inside the satin
.A
TJLmw- ml ft-vT-lT 1U fc DE. kJU
V ii 3 t K-. P MW.MI"
sisSb
corset to stand tlils,.-clso the result will be
grotesque and, where tbe figure Is round
ed out by natures band, a narrow belt,
fitted do wnxo a polntback and front, coven
the line of demarcation between skirt and
bodice.
JEWELS GALORE.
is at this belt that the use of Jewels
begins, for often enough tbe narrow-pointed
girdle Is made all of. skeleton Jet or
charming colored stones set In a flexible
gilt or silver frame. Above this line are
literally poured forth the treasures of ev
ery casket, be they great or small.
A dinner go wn'made for a debutante has
a pomegranate red silk skirt, creped In
tiny pink figures, and over the bodice falls
a soft kerchief collar of pink liberty gauze,
embroidered on tho edges with colored
stones. Her fashionably long throat lsclasp
ed by a dog collar. In alternate strings of
pearlB and diamonds, while double strings
of pearls run out to catch the bodice and
hold It up on the shoulder.
Naturally and by preference the youthful
clement lean to the wearing of pearls,
obscuring their soft contours of neck and
shoulder under ropes of these beads, and
even twisting them into their hair, or
converting them Into armlets by entwin
ing long strings from" elbow to wrist, and
fastening one end by a Jeweled pin to the
sleeve. Heads highly coiled and puffed
-for evening dresses will generally be
niot daintily decorated with coronets,
wing and little plumes of Jet. worked in.
very often with flue sprays of black, curly
osprcy tips, that against hair of any color
arc most brilliant and becoming.
EVENING MANTLES.
Dinner wraps are what they call the
short, pretty capes made of embossed vel
vet and turned back with white fur from
fronts of pale green or blue chiffon creped
very deeply and cut like the best of
the early autumn capes with one fall hang
ing in a multitude of little round organ
flutes by way of fullness at the back. All
these wraps have two collars, one out
side of the material and a soft ruche
within, made of puffed silk, that Is a
plaid preferably.
If any question of what Is appropriate for
Dinner
a good luncheon gown should arise a satis
factory solution may be found in anyone of
the October crepons, so called for the very
good reason that their colors match all the
shades la red, lusterless dark green, plum
purple and brown that the maple, oak and
beech leaves show this month. They are
creped with black, for a black wool warp
comes up through the silky woof and shows
skeleton fern and leaf patterns.
Where the crcpon Is all black worsted a
wide silk band shows through it, soft but
ridged like a long shining puff. It is with
these gowns of n. morning that there are
worn sweet little hats made of felt and vel-
-cv-
Miss Blight's Dinner Dress.
vet, braided together like straw, and
trimmed with big bows of wide flowered
ribbon, fringed out at tbe end, wings In
metallic shades of blue and green, gold and
brown, and little loops and knots of flax
gray lace. In place of violets that have
served their turn faithfully as trimming
we are one and all going to wearpansleson
our hats for a time. Big velvet pansles,
purple, rust color, gold, sapphire blue and
white ones In bunches together, sprinkled
all along the edge of the wide Jutting brims,
and the backs of the hats flaring with bows
of fringed ribbon, or velvet repeating In Its
figuring or weaving the varying pansy
shades.
HAT TRIMMINGS.
Not all hats are wide and not all are
turned up, but a very great many are
trimmed with bows of a new form. One
of these bows Is usually made of velvet
ribbon iu eight or twelve hoops, that are
nearly five inches long, stiffly wired and
meant to Jut out from the crown upon ths
brim, like the old spiked diadems rings
used to wear. Another bow Is a little more
than a crushed knot of velvet, not larger
than an egg and not Important In Itself,
but when along the extreme verge of a
wide-brimmed, black felt, swathed In
brown and yellow plumes, a whole dozen
of these odd bows are massed together
and made of a yellow velvet that shades
to cream color, tha effect Is Indisputably
nice and striking.
XL
Ij. 'i '.jlTT''
EARLY MARRIAGES AMONG THE
GIRLS OP GREECE.
Daughters of Noble Families
Come Out at Ten and Marry
at Sixteen.
I doubt If there Is any city in the world
where little girls, real HtUe ones, I mean,
think so much of getting married as they
do in Athens.
One day a girl friend of mine, who was
studying at the Hill Memorial school, was
called out of the classroom by her father,
who told her to get her things and come
home with htm at once.
"Why, what's the matter?" she asked
in alarm.
"Nothing," he said, "only you are going
to be married two weeks from to-day.-"
That was the first she knew about It,
and she was only sixteen years old. A
year later euc was divorced from the hus
band who was thus thrust upon her.
EARLY MARRIAGES.
When they are only nine or ten years
old, the little Greek girls of the best fam
Hies make their debut In society by danc
ing before King George and Queen Olga
atthe children's court bail, which takes
place every year at the royal palace, to
wards tho end or November. This ball
is a red letter event In their lUes, Tor
then, for the first time, they are allowed to
dance with older boys, nnd even with
tho fine officers who come there, with
swords and rattling spurs and bright uni
forms, nnd do not scorn to lead these
little ladles out on the floor for a waltz or
polka.
Toilets.
A very pretty picture they make at this
court ball, these proud little maidens an
dressed In white, with their long, black
curls tied with ribbon, and their arms in
cased iu silkTii in Its. After their Hrst ap
pcarance they go to this ball each year,
until they become grown up young ladies
or have found husbands for themselves, as
some of them do before they are grownup.
SHARP CHAPERONAGE.
Very strict is the watch kept over these
maids of Athens by their mammas and
chaperons and governesses, who rarely
allow them out of their sight. And yet in
a quiet way they manage to carry on flirta
tions with their boy admirers, just as
girls do everywhere. In the hot after
noons, after lessons are over, they sit on
the cool balconies in front of tbe houses,
at least they are the coolest places to be
found, and many arc tbe demure or ten
der glances they cast, taking their dark
eyes off their embroidery, upon the fine lads
In military uniform, who never fail to stroll
thepromcuade at that hour.
And, again, when walking with thelrgov
ernqsses in thcexposltinn grounds, they are
often followed at a discreet distance by ar
dent young swains, who take advantage
sometimes of n governess' good nature of
preoccupation to slip a cote into the fair
one's hand or a few words Into her car.
A 'ROMANTIC INCIDENT.
As may be Imagined, this severe re
straint exercised over Greek girls leads
often to unfortunate results, not only in
the way of divorces, like the case I just
mentioned, but in willful acts and elope
ments. I remember an Incident of this
sort that happened In a Greek family
where there were two daughters, the one
a great beauty, the other quite plain.
A young English diplomat fell In love with
the liandsomo sister, and knowing that
her marriage had already been arranged
for with some one else, he hit upon an
unusual plan for attaining bis purpose.
He procured a large coffin-like box, fitted
It with cushions and holes for ventilation,
placed a quantity of food Inside, and then
concealed It near the girl's home, having
previously given orders to a commissary
to carry it to the address indicated. The
plain sister was in the secret, and was to
assist in the escape. At the last moment,
however, the courage of tbe beautiful one
failed, and no argument could induce her
to go.
Here was a crisis, Indeed, and, not wish
ing the expectant lover to be disappointed,
and having a fancy for him herself, the
other Bister lay down In the box, which was
forthwith nailed up and Ehlpped to Its des
tination, where it arrived twenty-four
hours later, with the girl safe and sound.
I always admired tbe young diplomat's
conduct, when he opened the box and dis
covered the exchange of sisters Uiat had
been made. It ho felt any disappointment,
be concealed it, assuring the girl that tbe
pluck and devotion she bad shown were
more precious to him than ber sister'
beauty. So he married her, and I believe
they were happy over after.
WEDDING GOWNS.
Feasant girls are skillful with their
needles, tbese peasant girls learning from
their mothers, and people come from far
and near to purchase of their handiwork.
For ten years the children work; at then
marriage garments, so it Is little wonder
that they achieve a splendid result. The
mohalr-llko material of which the gown Is
mado Is of creamy white, someUmes woven
by the peasants themselves, but more fre
quently being purchased. Although tho
original stuff Is often cheap and of heavy
texture, yet from the matchless embroid
ery worked upon it. It gains great value.
At the bottom of tbe skirt are about fifty
or sixty rows of little square worked In
red, blue, gold and sljver thread, and pre
senting tbe appearance of a mosaic, floor.
The waist Is cut ,1a rather the style of an
Eton jacket, and,.lso profusely covered
with beautiful designs la embroidery that
the original material Is quite concealed.
Sometimes this Jacket Is of red velvet;
covered with gold lace, the material used
lndicaUng the means of the wearer.
The amount of work put on one of these
bridal costumes by the peasant girls is al
most endless, nnd when there are several
daughters in one family It becomes a seri
ous drain upon the time and resources of
the household, serving to keep the girls'
fingers busy during their evenings and
spare hours fur many, a year.
By .their sixteenth year the wedding dress
Is usually completed, and as Easter weekap
proncbes, all other work is put aside and
tho girls prepare for the great feast, to
which they have bgeu looking forward. At
this time every village In Greece presents
the appearance of agreat picnicgrouud. All
tho shops are closed, and on every corner
are seen boys and disabled men selling
sweetmeats. About 2 o'clock in the after
noon crowds begin to gather, families com
ing from miles around, from all the neigh
boring towns, nnd oftcn-frora Athens itself.
Then a HtUe later the joung girls, bright
eyed and radiant 'with happiness, come
forth, dressed for the first time In the
gown which Is at once their pride and
their fortune, witli their shapely arms
f lashing with bangles, while on the bodice
hang all their wordly wealth In the form
of gold and Sliver coins. This Is probably
the last time they will be seen on this oc
casion wiUiouttho 11 tUe silver helmet worn
by all married women, for in Uie dancing
that succeeds there Is very little doubt
that somo comely Greek peasant will find
In each-ot Uiese-.ypung girls tho bride of
his heart, and when she dances to the
music of the feast of Megara the follow
ing year she will take her place among tho
matrons.
FOIt HOT 1IIIEADS.
Now lteclpes TTed by Vlrglnlii Ilouse
. keopers.-
If there 1b one article in which colored
cooks excel it is tbe hot bread. Those
toothsome flour dainties Uiat are so shx
tlzing, those brown and crusty pop-overs
and steaming Sally Lunn's. At six o'clock
the Virginia 6upper hour, they are indeed
the piece de resistance of the early evening
meal.
If care and patience are given to tbe fol
lowing recipes thoy can be mado with
success:
OLD VIRGINIA BATTER BREAD.
In a bowl put one cup of sifted yellow
Torn meal, one tablespoonful of lard and
one teaspooiiful of salt, a pinch of soda.
Pour boiling water over all acd sUr until
you have a nice mush; cow beat in two
eggs. Thin with ore cup of sweet milk
and bake in a hot oven halt an hour. Use
a pudding dish to bake in.
DELICIOUS MUFFLNS.
One quart of flour; two eggs, separately,
well beaten; one tablespoonful of sugar, a
little over a pint(iif-i,weet milk and Bait;
then add th ree tea-MKKinfuljof yeast powder.
Beat well and balje in small pans.
FOP-OVERS.
Four eggs; enough, flour to make a thin
batter; bake quickly in cups. This is a
delicious bread fiu; supper or tea.
SWEET WAFERS.
Six egga, one pint lit flour, two ounces of
melted butter, one cup of milk, one and one
halt cups of sugar; vanilla or cream extract
can be used for seasoning if desired. Bake
in wafer-iron. '-
POTATO RlfLLS FOR TEA.
, S Ixgood medium-flzcd potatoes, two eggs,
one-halt cup of yeast, one teaspoonful oj;
sugar and tbe same salt; a good, generous
spoonful, of lard and butter. Bod the po
tatoes and mash very f ine;-add sugar.y eat,
salt, and lard and butter mixed. Let the
mixturestand four r five hours; then make
very stiff with flour until no more can be
worked in. Putin a warm place to rise for
five hours. Afterward make into turnovers
for a 7 o'clock tea. These a re unrivaled as
hot bread.
SALLY LDNN.
One quart of flour, one half-pint of milk,
one gill of east, three eggs, two ounces of
butter, twoteapoonfu!sof white sugar and
a teaspoonful of salt; beat eggs very light;
mix all the Ingredients and set to rise over
night. When risen pour, without stirring,
into a mold arid set to rise for an hour be
fore baking This Is the great supper dish
so much used in Virginia. . -
WAFFLES.
One pint of flour, one pint of milk, three
eggs; salt to taste; sift one teaspoonful of
good baking powder in flour; beat the egg"
very light, and then add Uie milk, gradu
ally stirring In the flour;-raelt a good-sized
piece of butter and pour in; have the waff lo
Irons well greased and hot. Bake quickly.
VIRGINLV CORN BREAD.
Boil one pint of fine hominy; whilst hot
mix in a large spoonful of butter and three
eggs beaten very light. Add one pint of
milk and lastly add one pint of corn meal.
Tliis batter should be of tbe consistency of
a boiled custard. If too thick add more
milk. Bake In a hot oven, but not too
hot. and when done serve immediately.
MARYLAND BISCUIT.
Intoone quart ot flour put a large table
spoonful of lard, a small pinch of soda, salt
to taste; mix with cold water or cold milk
If preferred into a very stiff dough. -Let
this stand about four hours and then work
well for ten minutes. Cut them out in
small biscuits and bake in a moderate oven.
TEA ROLLS.
Take one pint of milk and flour enough
to make a batter, two tablespoonfuls of
7east; set this sponge to rise over night.
In the morning pour this on one quart of
flour, one egg well beaten, a piece of butter
and lard tbe size of an egg, well mixed;
then set aside to rise; make in small mils;
let them rise until Jigbt. Bake In a quick
on. Jj
BUNNSIBOR TEA.
One quart of floor ,;two eggs, one teacup
of sugar, one tablespoonful of butter; make
np witb good yeastiver night. Tbe next
morning put tbenHnnny shape you desire
and bake. WhcnWooe spread over them
tbe beaten wbibjaone egg. Sift sugar
over them and'pnt'tiem back in the oven
to dry. e
AIRS. QUER BELL DUNCE.
- j-
The Last Tteyindr'iiie" Summer Girl.
Farewell, 4
A year's farewelt-J""
iu an my greatness,
This U the stat5r
Of man; j$
To-day he buds, f
To-morrow blossotris,
And then I cut him down.
And get another on the string.
A for myself,
r am a loo-loo,
And having closed
The summer campaign
And put a few repairs ;
Upon my throbbing hearty
I shall resume business
At the old stand.
In town.
Now is tho winter
Of my discontent;
Flirted all summer
And not married a cent;
And yet
I'd rather bear '
The Ills T have
Than tackle soma
I wot of...
That's met
And I'm Just the same all tbe year round.
New York Son.
IN
Fur "With Satin and Fur With
Lace Some of the Going
Away Gowns.
H ROUGH the
beat of summer,
ecn as we toil
ed on and tried
to make believe
that winter was
really coming,
there were men
who divined it
trom afar. And
so, at tbe first
touch of Sep
tember coolness
tnero leaped as If
by magic from a
hundred biding
places.the very garb of winter fur. And
at one word wo have passed from tbe
J tropics to Siberia.
A Fur Mode
Everywhere tillage so presses upon the
wild life that Adam saw that fur grows
more nnd more expensive. It Is almost
the one exception to the universal rule
of falling prices, and so I am sure It Is
pleasant to know how one can make such
excellent use of a very little of it as in
the handsome red cloth cape of diamond
patterns In black and braid, and the
wide collar of black miffet, which I have
been admiring. Or Its companion gar
ment, a long evening cloak of dark helio
trope cloth, lined with a lighter shade
and with silver brocade; with jet orna
ments, a roll collar of sable and a narrow
strip of the same rich fur on tbe cuffs.
Tbe coat of sealskin lends encourage
ment to the little women who wear Eton
and zouave shapes becomingly, for there
will be a considerable run upon fur gar
ments in these cuts Uiis autumn. Another
popular fur garment will be the cape, either
ot fur entirely or of cloth with a fur col
lar, and a second, shorter capeoverlapping
the longer one. Slim young women will
find short, loose-fronted sealskin coats
recommended to them, but in longer gar
ments Iwth economy and the wish to avoid
crushing weight will point to combina
tions ot fur and cloth.
A pelisse of black satin merveUIeux
is an example.
It has Wattcau folds in the back. Is lined
at the sides and In front with squirrel
lock. The square collar, like a Puritan's
neck bands, only broader, the Inner collar
coming close about the throat, and the
cuffs are lined with mink.
Sleeved or sleeveless, all fur garments
have to be made roomy enough at tbe
sides to shelter the big sleeves of the mo
ment. Furs are sometimes continued, as in a
cape of black Persian lamb, with a shoulder
cape edged with sable tails, and a cascade
ot these tails falling down the front, even
below tbe hem. A coat nr.d skirt costume
of Tersian lamb with ermine collar -is
another combination. May I humblF
venture tbe opinion that neither of ttesa
Is equal In good taste or beauty to the
better combinations of velvet, cloth or
satin with soft fur.
These are novelties in the nse of fur:
Fur with an applique ot velvet upon
pale satin. In Paisley or Dresden designs,
the satin shining beneath and between the
velvet bars.
Fur over a Filvcry brocade with groups
of blurred china flowers In delicate,
faded colors.
Fur with rich green Lyons velvet, lined
wltb old gold brocade. Fur In a huge roll
ing collar, in a strip down the fronton each
side, in the talis and paws used as trim
mings. Fur with Jet, velvet, passementerie
and lace, all In one garmentl
"Winter will be worth while that shows
us all these wonders of the street. Surely
never before was a material so dignified
and rich as fur used In combinations with
such perishable, delicate fabrics.
Is "silver-fox" ofTered? I have read
of a dealer who says that less than 200
silver foxes are taken In all th world
In a year, and that all these, practically,
go to Russia to be worn by princesses. A
single skin Is worth $130 to $300, and a
fox Is absurdly small. But dealers are en
terprising. "What will they do If tlie fur
Beal really becomes exUnct? Can the char
acteristic far of- this long-suffering beast
be imitated? I doubt If It has been yet, and
for this reason seal is a pretty safe fur to
buy.
Green Is a good rich color, not quar
relsome against others, and' a key to
strong combinations. A chrysanthemum
green cloth walking dress I have seen,
which Is a dream. The deep, square collar
THEIR MANY COMBINATIONS
PALL COSTUMES.
" " ' J i-fc.
v " klc -e "r "
&fzf& L .
reveals a bit of mulberry velvet at the throat
Ths edging of the collar and of the cuffs
is sa bio fur, and tbe tails are- worked Into
the front of 'the bodice. The button are
of silver repousse, Uio skirt is lined with
mulberry satin. The toque Is of green cloth
and mulberry chenille, velvet roses of the
mulberry hue, and an osprey'a ravaged
plumago. It la the very soul of sombre au
tumn, glowing at heart.
What a gown that would be for an
autumn bride's trousseau! The, autumn
bride demands her share of attention,
andperhapsailttlemorc. Iiiartualweddlng
gowns there Is, well, the merest trifle of
change, hardly noticeable at a glance at the
big sleeves, themedallIonfront,thelongpIa la
or laco edged train. The going away gown
and tbe bride's reception and dinner gowns
arc quite otherwise and usually represent
tbe latest breath of fickle fashion. Cer
tainly this Is the case with a going away
costume which I have been admiring in a
friend's trousseau. The loose, plain bodice
front buttons with big buttons, the skirt
Is plain, the material of all a smooth gray
cloth. Over the blouse bodice and over
tbe big sleeves falls almost to the waist a
triple cape with wide embroidered collar.
Beneath this piling of Pel Ion upon Ossa
the tightly cased arms from the elbow
down look like pipestems. Tbe return of
tbe cape Is a calamity to most figures,
but it certainly has returned
I should have said that this fashtona-ble-ln-the-extrenic
garment was crown
ed by a hat which can only be described
as an hour-glass crown on very wide
brim, with huge plumes and bows all In
black. The steeple crown is robbed of its
full effect by the wide brim, reminding one
of tbe contending and mutually nullifying
principles of Ormuzd and Anriman.
In Trlmmlnc.
Dorsal Fancy In For,
&&.
."C.'"l J M.
j&!tt?.&?&J
2Wtefc&
CST lll " P 1 Ir 11. IS-' U V.J
pi I If h
The Fur Fluff
And speaking ot bats. It may be well
to add that the steeple crown, though
quite admissible. Is to be by no means
common. Far more usual la the bat
with no crown at all, or tbe mero faint
Indication of one, scarce rising from Its
enormous brim.
For tbe brims arc enormous. A tiny
close-fitting gown, shallow as a saucer, in
securely supports a structure two feet wide
over all, and with an enormous sail area.
Cock's plumes, ostrich feathers, steel or
rhlnestone ornaments, velvet and satin Dres
den ribbon are In favor as garnishes.
As to the bodies of these aspiring crea
tions, count felt and cbenlle in the lead, and
add that velvet Is a favored material In
millinery, as it Is with dress -and cloak
maker and even with, the furrier.
There Is absolutely no change In the Knick
erbocker situation. Plenty of moral. Intelli
gent and good-looking women are wearing
bicycle bloomers, bat I bave yet to bear ot
one society leader following the Paris pointer.
The bloomers may be none tbe worse for
that. ELLEN 03BORN.
Beauty Sge&&$
FORMS AND PAD3 IN THB
MAGICAL PASTEBOARDS.
Fashionable Authority In Eegard
to These Social Necessities
and Their Use.
The punishment Inflicted upon the mai
or woman who attempts to be Individual
In the matter of visiting cards Is Immediate
and lasting. Society exacts from Its mem
bers visiting cards rather large than small,
engraved In fine script on unglazed card
board. You will never be accepted among
fashionable people' If you present your
name to them printed In German text
Gentlemen's visiting cards are smaller than
ladles' and longer In proportion to their
width, and must have the prefix "Mr."
and bear the full name. Tour grocer or
butcher may announce bis presence by a
card which reads "J. S. Brown." but a
gentleman's card must be engraved "Mr.
James Simpson Brown." It will not even
do to attempt "Mr. J. Simpson Brown."
Women also must strlcUy adhere to the
rules which govern visiting cards not a
shade of license will be accepted. There
is but one form for married ladles. "Mrs.
James Simpson Brown."
Young ladies' names are engraved o?
their mothers' cards thus: .
Mrs. James Simpson Brown,
Miss Brown,
or if there are two Saugbtcrs In scciatr,
Mrs. James Simpson Brown.
Tbe Misses Brown.
Theaddresslsaiwaysplaced attbe right
hand lower corner of the card, a reception
day on tbe lower left-band corner. Un
married men may have their club. If It
be an extremely fashionable one, engraved
at the rlgbt-hand corner of their cards In
place of a home address; never a political
or second-rate club. Married men do not
bave tbelr names engraved on tbe same
cards with, their wives except for wedding
cards or for sending wedding presents.
Legally a widow has no right to continue
to use her deceased husband's name. Mr.
James Simpson Brown having died, hii
widow, wbo was born Elizabeth Jones,
becomes Mrs. Elizabeth Jones Brown, and
should bave ber visiting cards so engraved.
But one woman of tbe Brown family
bas tbe right to call-herEell Mrs. Brown
and sbo must cmptatlcally be tbe wife
ot tbe eldest Mr. Brown. Many of my
readers will recollect tbe feud which di
vided Newport some years ago by Mrs.
William Aster's issuing cards on which
"Mrs. Astor" was engraved while there
still was and Is an older Mrs. Astor of tbe
same family.
Unmarried Jadlesr no longer debutanJp
or in tbelr first or second seasons, are
permitted to have their Individual cards
with "ilis Brown" engraved upon them,
but only one young lady in a family may
do this that Is to say. If Mr. James Simp
son Brown and his brother Mr. George
Burd Brown each have a family of girls,
but one, and she the eldest of the cousins.,
is enUtled to tbe privilege of the sepa
rate card with "Miss Brown" engraved
thereon. No young lady should ever,
even though she be the Miss Brown of
the family, leave her card without that of
ber mother or chaperon
Do not allow any one to Inveigle you Into
a "P. C. C." on your card. "P C. C."is the
abbreviation of "Pour prendre conge," or
"to take leave," but Inasmuch as most of
us speak English quite as well as French, it
Is far more elegant to substitute "On leav
ing Chicago" or "on taking leave." On cer
tain occasions it is quite proper to send
cards just referred to which announce a
departure, also where one is unexpectedly
prevented trom attending an afternoon tea
or reception, cacjs may be sent by mail and
the sender is not obliged to pay a visit Im
mediately afterward. It is understood that
in attending a kettle-drum reception or any
afternoon function one pays one's ceremo
nious visit In so doing, and a card sent by
post is accepted in lieu, of a calL Theafter
noon tea Is a saving grace to many a bard
worked society individual for this reason.
Leave-taking cards are not sent except
when one Is going far away for a lengthy
stay or when one goes from a summer re
sort or watering place where usually on
has made acquaintances from other cities.
It Is now expected that every gentleman,
V&N
IZ - -V
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:
TW-
of Fashion.
old or young, wbo finds time to accept a
lady's invitation and partakes ot her
hospitality, will find time to call per
sonally upon bis hostess, and he must not
neglect to can within the prescribed week.
The afternoon Is tbe accepted time for
these ceremonious visits, and tbe man who
Is too busy to acquit himself of thU duty
will soon find his leisure hours rapidly
accumulating, for no woman of breeding
will ever ask a man tbe second time to ber
bouse who is so grossly uncivil. It Is no
longer good form for tbe mothers, wives
and sisters to leave their male relatives'
cards with tbelr own. I saw a well-known
woman receive two ladles with perfect
courtesy one afternoon, and after they bad
left, finding they had deposited the cards
of tho three gentlemen of their family with
tbe footman, I also beard this same lady
witb entire nonchalance pass tbe cards of
tbe delinquents to ber daughter, saying
"My dear, will yoa Just run a lino through
these three names on my invitation book,"
and that ended tbe social recognition of
the three Indolent gentlemen of New TorK
by one of the leader of the Four Hundred.
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