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The morning times. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1895-1897, November 24, 1895, Part 2, Image 14

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-T -."V. fc-
Etiquette of the Fox Chase and
the Gaieties Attendant
Upon It.
Tbc first consideration with the woman
who hunts is her mount. lie must be sound,
IduJ, speedy, able Intake a fcnce.and about
sixteen li.iniIs.Wsli. Expense must not bo
considered 'in jHirebasIng a hunter. Bay a
good horse, no matter what tlic price may
Ticere will then be no visions of pretty
faces bruised anil scratched, limbs broken.
A Hunt
and trim figures lying limp on stretchers
improvised of gales and hurdles.
The noticeable absence of accidents to
women who hur.l in this country is said
to I-attributable to the good horses as well
as to superior riding.
In regard to the trappings, the up-to-date
saddle Iijk a cut-back tree, a level seat, and
is roven-d with pigskin, devoid of wna
mentation. The bridle mutt be a plain
russet leather, with either .silver-plated or
lenltier-covcn-d buckles, and it is best to
use a double rein curb bridle.
A crop is a necessary adjunct to a hunt
ing outfit; it should have a buckhorn
handle with plain mounting. Sometimes
a spur-pointed crop is used.
Skilled horsewomen often wear Uic
regulation spur, witti Uie needle point
and protected rowel, strapped to the
heel of their lioot. A spur, however, scerus
a cruel means of enforcing speed and not
Just the thing for a woman.
As to her own outfit, the woman who
hunts should understand that she must
never be badly turned out, and each
season, if there lias been any decided
change in styles, a wholly new habit
must be ordered.
There is a riding dress, a rather new
invention, which, in case of an accident,
or "cropper."' reh-ases itself and thus, the
rider Is saved from the danger ot being
hung up or dragged by her skirt on a,
runaway horse.
Amazon cloth, either or limit er's .preen
or butternut brown, is considered the
smartest things for habits; they are made
to lie an inch or two on Uie ground when
the wearer is standing lip, and cncler
neath equestrian tights are worn, ac
companied by top boots of russet Russia
The Jacket is a cutaway, closed wtUi
one or two buttons and worn over a
"pink"-i. e., the brightest scarlet waist
coat. If one wishes to be very gay. A linen
collar, a trimly tied scarf and pin put the
finishing touches.
A felt dcrbv. with rather a low. round
crown is worn. The gloves should lie
flexible gauntlets of soft Russia tan leather
orofdogskin with whatiscalled "pricked"
seanw. Instead of the edges ot the seams
Iving lappedovcr one another as in a
pique glove, they are held together ard thus
stitched m place, so Uiat both Rhow on the
outside: the glove has welted backs In
spear points.
During Uie season hunt meets occur
about three times a week.
If a member of a club, in due course,
you receive a card informing you of the
dates of the -various meets "Hunting
rixlur" being written at the head of
tlw pretty sh'-ct or club note paper.
Generally the throw-oft is at 11 o'clock,
sometimes later.
One of the charming and picturesque fca
Icres of the sport is a hunt breakfast,
which is given three or four limes durlrg
the season. A delightful little missive in
forms yon that Mr. and Mrs. Blank request
the pleasure of your company to breakfast
nt 12 o'clock. In Uiis case the throw-off
follows about 1 o'clock,
ruiulual to the hour, the guests arrive
mm & H J -8$ Gi
In the
for breakfast, which Is a feast served both
Indoors and out. If the weather Is favor
nblclhercrrcshmentsnreniTanged on small
tables oir trie veranda, or on either side of
the steps leading to the house. Ben-ants In
liveries -which add to the picturcsqueness
ot Ihe scene are Jn attendance.
The picture is a gay and brilliant one
young women looking radiant Willi health
andjsapjilness, the huntsmen in their pink
coats, the whipper-in with the hounds gnth
ered in packs and impatient to be otr, tho
large concourse or people who have driven
to the meet In dogcarts, broughams, or vic
torias and who will follow as spectators
of the hunt.
Breakfast over, the huntsman mounts
his horse and blows his horn, the hounds
gather around him, and the whole field
starts out.
OecasionaMy the fox Is a captured one,
kept and released for the occasion, but
generally the iiunt Marts wit to fiudn
fox. Away the (logs dash and string out
over the liclds, the riders galloping and
urging on their horses, and lucky Is the
rnrf who is "leading the field."
Just fancy,, un. .-ni thing be more ex
hilarating than life best of liorses under
you, the fences fair hunting ones, and
next to the hound-.! This Is the height
of every fair hunter's ambition next to
receiving the brush, which Is, of coure,
considered the greatest triumph of all.
Sometimes eight or ten miles are cov
ered by the hunt and wtien the riders re
turn to Uie cluts-houM; they are glad to
find tea prepared for them.
At the Richmond County Club, Staten
Island, tea is frequently served to the
members ot the hunt, about forty mounts
in all. When a dance is gi en the ballroom
Is splendidly deeoraled wiUi flowers, and
the white, red and green colors of the club.
but the ladies lay aside their severe trap
pings for mpre festive attire.
For the coUllion the ravors are mis,
spurs, sUrrups aud hunting horns tied with
me club colonvThe bunUng quadrille
Is danced to Uie Itiely singing of such airs
as "Drink-l'.uppy, Drink," -"The Place
Where the Old Horse Died." "A Southerly
"Wind nud a Cloudy Sky," and sirailarhunt
ing ditties.
To carry out Uie general hunting effect
ot the scene, the .screen which conceals the
orchestra may be a hurdle of bars and brush.
The hostess who wUies to dine the
members of the hunt club, may seat her
guests about a table in the ilmpe ot a
large wheel, covered with Ilk of the
club colors, the spokes being outlined
with Jlowcrs. IUsing from the hub may
be a spray of electric lights, like "flashes
from the wheel."
The coers must" be placed on the fel
loes of the wheel, one between each two
of the spokes. To carry out the "horsey"
eilts-t the Mtit-l may be served in pretty
little horse-buckets, with a silver horse
shoe for a cover, the menus being painted
in designs showing a horse's head, whips,
crops, horseshoes and saddles.
III Helljilon Tlews.
Rustic theology often contains much com
mon sense, though not always in accord
with the canons. A clergyman came to
preach in a Southern parish, and while
walking across the fields met a farm laborer,
who in the course of conversation said he
was a 'Piscopal.
The clergyman was glad to hear it, and
asked if he belonged to the parish, to which
the laborer answered that he "didut
-Then what diocese do you belong to?"
was the uextqacstion.
"Tner' ain't nawthla' like that 'round
here," replied the other.
"Who couriruied ou. then?"
"Nobody," auhwerccnhe laborer.
"Then you are an Episcopalian?" asked
the clergyman.
"Weil," was the reply, "you see it's
this way: Last winter I was a-vititing
a friend, and while I was there 1 went to
church, and it was called 'Piscopal, and
I heard tlictn say Uiat they 'left undone
the things what they oughler done, and
they'd done some things Uiat they oaghten
done.'and I says to myself, says I. 'that's
my fix exac-Uy,' and ever since I consid
ered myself a 'Piscopallau." New Tork
Lens TrampS
In Bare Feet
It Is the New Cure for Bad
Ken-cs and a I'lcsh-Rcduc-
iujr Pastime.
If you waut a brand-new and most de
lightful sensation, something to look for
ward to as a lark next .summer and a sure
cure fora good score of Ihe lib modern nerv
ous flush is heir to, go for a barefoot tramp
through Normandy. Not only is it
a beneficial but exceedingly fashionable
thing to do, and along the road that leads
from old Dieppe to picturesque St. Malo
you will be treading in the footsteps of
not only smart American women, whose
footprints are straight and slender, but in
the broad and ample track of dliers Eng
lish ladles of title. Right along in Oc
tober the stout British dames and damsels
were still doing Normandy, without slices
or stockings, ami next June, or early in
Slay, the tcasou reopens again with in
creased enthusiasm, it is prophesied.
Now 11 appears that a clever but rather
eccentric American man, who is literary
and lircs mostly in London, discovered Ibis
new mode of seeing that well-traveled por
Uou of Trance. He tookhis two daughters
along, ami much they got back to England
Willi the story ot their frolic they found
enthusiastic imitators on every side. One
of the first parties to go oct on a three
weeks' walk was organized and conducted
by that still famously beautiful English
woman. Lady dc Gray, whose companions
were men and women of no less exalted
station than her own, and who did what
they culled their stint of walking In a stylo
that sctmiI as a model for all the parties
that came alter them. Nobody on a tonr
likc Ibis is permitted to carry more iug--gagclhau
willfii into an ample waterproof
catch-all, and the ojtflt includes two
changes of under-linen, as few toilet arti
cles as possible, and a waterproof capo.
So armed, the party assemble at Dieppe
or Havre, and Uiere U.e traveling dress
boots, and hats of conventional society
are put aside for the wholly picturesque
habit of the Norman jtcasaiits. The cos
tumes may be easily bought In the towns
whence the party sets oat, and for the
women c-onslsts of a skirt of dark blue or
brown homespun falllag Ihree Inches lie
low the knees and equally full baik and
front, a plain white cotton body with the
sleeves rolled to the elbow, a handkerihicf
knotted at the throat, and the fullness' of
the body caught in at the waist by the belt
of a I.'ng white apron. Tills apron has
strings that cross the back of the skirl
somewhere down about Ihe region of the
knees, and in place of a hat a Norman
can is worn, ot course. This is a charming
white muslin affair, either tyin;
' under the
On t!n Const
chin and showing a trig little bow at the
back ot the neck, or hanging In a full bag
behind, or roached up high on the head,
.like a coronet, and In any style a most be
coming tiead dress.
The last and most important article ot
apparel is the footgear, the sabots that one
can alternately wear and carry while walk
ing from town to town. Tl.e American
women prefer the nattiest ot wooden shoes,
those prettily carved with heels and holes
in the Instep, through which bright rib
bons ran be tied. However, these sabots
are worn very little on the journey, for
lender feet can far more easily bear the
roadway than the hard, heavy shoes that
chafe the skin untUJt grows callous, and
in reality the sabots are only taken along
in case or rough road spots or bad weather.
For to go barefoot is the object ot it all.
and when the commonplace clothes have j
been, by both men and women or me party,
exchanged tor the peasants plain work
ing togs, the traveling piwns are packed
and expressed on to the hotel in that town
where the pilgrimage comes to an end. It
you start from Deippe. the rule Is to strike
out on the highroad leading to St. Valery,
and the combined catch-all luggage Is sent
on a few hours beforehand to an inn.
Outside the city limits sabots must be
pat off, aud then comes the experiment ot
trudging shoeless and stockingless down
thosclong Normandy roads, running be
tween the loveliest fields or rows of neat
green little French trees. It is an experi
ment the first day to be blushed and wept
over, for human beings or the upper classes
cherish a curious modesty about their bare
feet, Uie soIe3 Of which are as tender as an
infant's skin. That first day they look
ugly, red, and are only fit for a salt water
soaking at night; but on the next walk
everybody shows up to greater adyautnge,
and aliout the Uiird day joy suffuses the
hearts of men and women alike, who find
that the nearest thing to getting back the
gayety ot youth is to walk barefoot. The
powdery white dust that coats those Nor
man roads is more yielding and delicious to
J the skin than velvet. tYlien Uie tenderness
wears off therctomes a spring and unwea
rying elasticity of step no root, however
carefully shod, can know, and a coaling or
two ot sunburn takes away every bit ot the
ugly, distorted appearance- -joar-bighly
civUlred footSgains from its leather cov
ering. 54
"Directly theSirouble with one's feet is
over, the'rcaVactyantaseof traveling In this
primitive slyUj begins to be appreciated,"
explained the-maiden who had barefooted
It through Nprniaudy and knew whereof,
she spoke. 'ycihTcrc three weeks on our
tramp; six of usjn all, and thrcemen along
who wore tueftRheriiien's suit wiUi smart
rldor -white tasSelcd berets.
Our roote 'laj!through St. Talery, Fe
camp, Havre, then to Honfleur, TroiivMc,
Caen. St. I.o, Constances, and so down to
St. Jialo. YouVre no idea what good inns
and good appetites we foundalon the road;
what historical 'treasures, what good
weather and what numbersof other walking
parties, we, met. Such omelets, wine and
prc-lty girls. We stopped, of course, at the
inn of AVIIIiam Uie Conqueror, walked some
times along the sea coast, sometimes
through-the loveliest French forest and
lost our nervous prostration, dyspepsia
and snperriuons rich in n way you
wouldn't believe unlessvou tried It
yourself. Four of our parly wen- seml
invallds when, Uiqy it out. and, at the
end of the Journey, they expressed them
selves as not only able but willing to
whip their wclgfit in wild cats. When
it was all over and our wcll-wom peas
ants' suits were tearrully resigned for
hot. long, tight, tailor dresses, every
member or Ihe company all but refused
to return to his or her shoes. A cap
txirV chains couldn't hae seinied. more
terrible to bear, and I rememlier that at
our farewell dinner together In Trou
ville. at which point we disbanded, one
by one the diners blushed and felt un
der the table, when the feast was over.
A general laugh and confession followed,
for not a man or woman but had sljly
slipped oft Ids or her footgear during the
meal, in search of that savage comfort
in which we had rejoiced during our
bareroot tramp through nine beautiful
German towns."
Girls Who Seek to Uuo Ilulrw Stitch
ed Into Wedding; Gowns.
One superstition that exists among sew
ing girU and Ihclr associates of Paris
and New York is that If Uie head dress
makers will stIWh into wedding garments
a single hair from the head of enc-li they
will become brides within a very short
time after the maklen who wears the
bridal outfit theq In preparation. A young
woman of experience and with a quick
eye for what would interest the Sun's
readers-said to a Sun reporter tbc other
- Eel me tell you ot this Btrange and yet
pretty superstition which exists among
some of the sewing girls of Paris and New
York. I am more familiar with the supcT
Millon as it exists among the girls of some
or the bigger dry goods shops in New
York city, and so in this instance I will
c-onfine my story to them. When the sew
ing girls in thediffcrent apartments and
the girls behind the counters learn Uiat
tbo house has received an order for a b'g
trousseau they besiege the head dressmakers
ot Normandy.
and ask them to stitch Into the wedding
gown esjiccially a single hair from their
beads. The hair is so fine that it is
easily concealed and cannot In any way
mar the bcarrtlfnl wedding gown. The
head dressmakers very often humor the
"1 know positively that this superstition
exists, aud I know positively that in many
wedding govvns, could they be picked to
pieces, would be found many hairs stitched
In. The girls when they go home at night
telljhelr girl friends that a hair from their
heads has been stitched into the wedding
"gownif -Miss So-and-So, and the lucky one
is Immediately envied. She will be mar
ried very soon, her associates say.
"ilauy of the girls In the big shops secure
bits of the wedding gmvns ot fashionable
brides. They lake them home and treasure
tlieni up, They make collections of them,
and they pointJllNn out to their friends in
the nelRhlKirhiuidaying, "That was Miss
So-and-So'8 wedding gown," and so they go
through the list. Tne sewing girl who pos
sesses the greatest Collection of these bits
Is a very impflrtanynung woman in the
eyes of" her you'ng'.woman frleuds. She is
considered to bo almost fashionable herself,
because she Is so near the throne. But by
far the prettiest Ssniierstltlon that I have
yet heard of Is the one where a single hair
from so many of these 6hop glrLs is 6titchcd
into these very expensive wedding gowns."
"I think It a shame for Mr. Taynter to
talk shop as lie does. I overheard him say
ing to Mrs.BIumcr that he thought he had
the prettiest, strongest, most graceful and
best proportioned model In the country.
He even began to describe her frame when I
came away. It must be an awful life to
lead posing for artists; but whatastonished
me was Uiat Bailie Blumcr should listen
to him."
"But, my dear Mrs.Prlmper. Mr. raynter
was not describing the model that poses for
"What was lie describing tnen?"
"His bicycle." Brooklyn. Life.
Slxnmpiiig Faroes
r$ a. $m Fad
Women "Wear the Costumes of
Normandy Fisher Folks and
Catch the Pink Crustacea.
The most prum'slng spurt thLs winter
Is a direct Importation from the French
watering places, and everybody who visits
Florida now goes shrimping, pronouncuig
it the great Invention of the age.
Shrimping parlies were first gut up by
some one who had spent her summer in
Dieppe and learned liowfl7"clo it, but the
sort of bathing salt in which one frolicked
with North Atlantic waters last August
won't serve at all for shrimping in Florida.
Down al the white beach most iiatronized
by the midwinter trippers the shrimping
Is done at a reef that lies about a milu
off the hotel's shore, where bath houses
stand, and to which, when the tide is loW,
a cat boat will only carry one-halt the way.
The fuu begins Just where the water
grows so shoal that the boat must stop.
Then theboatmen who are growing ticd to
the ways of ladies from the North must roll
Iheir trousers to their knees, spring out
Into the water and carry the women clear
across a quarter or a mile stretch to the
reef, all of which Is proclaimed to be a
most unusual aud exciting siwitii, alone
worth Joining a shrimping excursion.
All one must do Is to stand on the boat's
he-avlng, lei the brawny, brown fisherman
catch one round theknees.and then his bur
den, half carelessly lusscdovrror.e shoulder,
holds on by clasping his throat with her
tiuuds. Of course one can go round to the
reet by rowboal, and in shorter space, but
U'b not hair" much sport as being carried,
and, licsides. it's the way smart French
women do nt Trouville, which is an all
imiiortant ract In i lie eyes or her American
sister, olte-n quite as ennulcd as the I'a
nslenne and glad oTa new scnsaUon.
IT you go over to the reef merely to look
on at the sport a tid enjoy a share of the rishy
rcnsl.you wearanysortoran afternoon loi
lct, simple or claljrirate, but if you go to
shrimp you wear across in the boat a long
dark blue cloth cloak, that falls from neck
to heels, shaped like a Connemara. w illi a
round, full'scarlet hood. A red silk risber
man'scap orarvd sllkliandkcrchlerisused
to cover the head and brown canvas bath
ing slippers the rcet.
Down al Uie shrimping ground, on en
tering the water, both cloak and slippers
are cast aside, and one appears in bare icet
and ankles, with fun trousers to ihe knee
and a belted blouse waUl with short puffed
sleeves. All this should be in dark blue or
brown or green flannel, the Ih-H of scarlet
canvas, and a huge square sailor collar of
the same material and color rallirg over
the shoulders.
Then armed with a long-handled net one
wades slowly out into Uie water, thrusting
Uie net's rim in tostir up the sand and then
waving it quickly about to catch the sur
prised and scattering shrimp.
When the net gels heavy with rish it
is emptied Into a canvass pocket swung
over the left shoulder, but it takes a
fall half hour to fill that pocket. If one
has luck, and one wades in neck deep
to find the llcly little creatures, lhat
can cjsily escape a fisherwoman who Is
not swirt enough with her net and doesn't
know how to employ her ten little toes
in rooting about in the sand.
"When Uie Ude begins to ebb, shrimp
ing for the day is over, and all along the
Leach driftwood fires wink a cheerful
welcome to the flslierwomcn returning
with their spoils. .
Over each fire an iron kettle Is swung
and when Uio water, witn one big lump
of salt In It, Is brought to the boiling
point, in go Uie shrimp? to cook a fine
rich pink. Expert shrimpers merely wash
ing Uielr canvas shoulder bags, drop them
into Uie pots, a few minutes' boiling does
the business, and, wrapped in their long
cloaks, eierybody squuls informally about
on the sand and sits about pealing and cut
ng the catch.
The eight becomes impressive, when one.
slender de-nutante alone eats seventeen
dozen sbrimis .at a single sitting and yet
wears a yearning expression of righteous
appetite unapplied, in the depths of her
large brown eyes, that almost drives her
masculine friends out or.ee more In search
ot sea food. Some very nice wome-n have
indeed quite lo3t all record of the numbers
ot shrimps they can consume In one after
noon, but plead in extenuation the im
perial deliciousuess ot plain boiled shrimps,
when fresh from the sea and the voracious
appetite this species ot sport can excite.
When cery shell has been cracked and
the fires begin to fall into coals, nets, bags
and keltles are gathered into the bath
houses, a magnificent huge conflagraHon
of driftwood is lighted upon the sand and
everybody Joins hands and liegins to circle
round it, singing whatever sense or non
sense may pop into their lieads.
Easier and faster whirl the young peo-
tin" Oiteh.
pie, until the Inst shrimping suit Is de
clared to be iK-rfectly dryland then by
moonrlse themerry-makersgo home. Some
drive, row, wheel, walk or sail back to the
hotel, Ujeir iiockets filled with shrimrti.
that in this winter resort are eaten as it
they were nuts. Shrimp shells mark the
path of every hotel resident about the
ground on the iwach, and a pape-r ljag of
hot boiled shrimp tossed in Uie car win
dow is the customary gift with which to
sivi-d a parting guest.
.An Extraordinary Quilt.
Mrs. Joshua Biles of Soul hington lia s been
working on a bedquilt at odd times since
1SS2 u hlch is a wonder in its way and de-
sere cssj,ecial nottee. Thtmaterialistwilled
cotlon. and is made, in Torty-oiie squares.
te,en squares cacti way, but the inner
square lakes up the space of nine ordinary
ouc-s. On this ure. inscribed in blue stitch
ing, nblchisreadUydecIpliereil. the names
or all the soldiers w Iw went to Ihecivil war
from Southington, together with a picture
of places aisl-pcrsoiiof local uole.-such as
tt-.e pastors of t he churches, Ihe postmasters
of tlie Ihn-e villages, tlieasscssors. conlract
ors and builders, rocrcha nt s. etc., Ite na mes
of the various manufacturing firms with
lists of officers, pictures of various histori
cal buildups- and name-s of secret societies
re-prefci-tedlnthctownln 1S&2. Mrs.Biles
has been untiring in her efrorts to finish Ihls
remarkable work, and it is now stretched
ujhi!! a rrame and was exhibited at the
birthday parly in the Baptist Chnrc-h last
night. The quilt willbe sold andallprocceds
over the actual cost will be turned intotbe
fund for the parsonage. New Haven
There is a dealer In men's shoes who
has sticking out of each pair of shoes
in the window of his slore three new
one-dollar bills. An accompanying an
nouncement reads: "Three of a kind take
a pair." A young man undertook to beat
the game the other day.
"You sell shoes according to the rules
of poker, don't you?" he inquirenl.
"We do," replied the clerk.
"Well, I wear size 9; wrap me up two
pairs or tlieiu."
He received the shoes and handed over
Excuse me," said the clerk, "but those
shoes come to S6."
"That's all right," replied the young
man, "three of a kind sat two pair."
"I knpw that," said the clerk, "hut
tliey don't beat four nines." Shoe and
Leather Reporter.
It Mmlv No Difference
Blufrkins wrote a very bad hand gener
ally, but tn writing hurriedly, making an
appointment with a friend, he excelled
I even himself. He bad left the letter lying
for half an hour, and, on going to address
the envelope, he happened to glance at his
epistle. Scarcely a word could he de-cipher,
but, calmly inclosing It, he said to
himself: I
"After all, what does It matter? It's
Hawkins has to read It, not I." Tid -Bits.
tbe Nots.
Farted Spent
fit flw FlarUW
At Coming-Out Teas the Votive
Offering- of Bouquets Is
a Feature.
The art of floral decoraUon Is an elato
rate one in these end-of-tbe-century class.
It is likewise a costly one.
For Instance, one graud dame rcecut'y
spent 54,000 for riowcrs to decorate her
table', dining and drawing-rooms for a din
ner party.
"Not less than the graces and no more
than the muses," is no longer therule as to
the numtn-r of guests bidden to the modern
dinner, and this hospitable hostess Mrs.
Ilavemcycr.by the way entertained eighty
guests. They were seated at two tables.
Over each table was a huge umbrella, cov
ered with orchids;, from the edges hu ng del
icate trailing garlands, aud the lights were
charmingly arranged to show off the fkiw
ers lo perfection. Oneurabrella was a mass
ot pale pink orchids, a nil the oUier was cov
ered with the purple catUeya. As some ot
the orchids cost S2 each, one ca n under
stand lhat kucli elaborate decorations most
l: backed by a long parse.
A pretty centerpiece ot rotes or violets
and mignonette may be purchased for $1
or 520. It is more IreouenUy, however, the
case that $50 isiaid Tor the centerpiece.
If one Insists upon having an urcnid ta
ble, one must pay anywhere lroin .$400 to
7u0 and upward, especially upward, for
It. For a bou-e wedding the flowers, palms
and foliage plants usually cost ";"00 to
$1,000, as much as the bridal gown, or
For the bride's bouquet $15, $73, $175
awl upward and on rard, whatever the hap
py Interested ones ctmose to expend.
A rose bunch given as a favor at a
luncheon or dance is worth irom $2 to
S15, while a box of cut flowers costs from
54 to 510.
At coming-iut teas the votive oirering
of bouquets Is one of the feature-s of the
function, and the pride with which the
debutante displays her trophies Is only
equaled by tbc satisfaction the Indian
chier takes in the scalps which adorn his
Thirty-eight bouquets Is an extremely
modest number tor a young girl to receive
at her coming- ut tea; sixty-eight Is a
more correct approximation. Miss Ger
trude Vandertiilt received ninety-sevea rare
and costly nosegays upon the occasion of
her debut, and each was tied with at least
six jards of rare and costly satin ribbon
ail "very, very expensive," as Mrs. Car
lyle's maid woukl remark.
The Yand'Tlmts probably pay $1,000 a
month to their florists, even during tin
"dull wasom'when teas awl dinners and
luncheons and receptions are in full swig
it is too great a tax upon the imaginaiii-i
even to try to estimate the amount of their
bill for flo-,crs.
The plants and flowers for Mrs. William
Astors and Mrs. Jack Astor's use are sent
down four 'times weekly from the green
houses at Ferncllff, always accomiianletl
by a bill, which is paid In due course by
the Astor estate. This Is a case of tak
ing money out ot one pocket and putuns
it in another, but the Astor family are
very methodical and systematic In their
business modes.
Although corsage bouquet s are not
longer worn, it is quite the proier thing to
carry a bouquet to the opera or the theater:
The design is a perfectly round mass of
Hoivers, with a delicate liorder ot maid, n
hair ferns. It takes a true orust to con
struct an afralr like this. No tigiitly ar
ranged mass of flowers cjawded together
will suit a fastidious taste. A green bou
quet is considered most chic for an opera,
or indeed almost any occasion. Mignon
ette, orchids of a pale green shade and
ferns are used to furm a green bouquet.
Mrs. Gebhard carried one to a patriarch's
ball last winter. The fair matron had a
small Uiitery dlsiiosed somewhere about
her costume, and by its means the bouquc
was illumined with tiny electric lights.
New nnd Charming De-.lKiis In Parses,
Curd Cu-.e- nnd Belt llou.
Ot nil a woman's belongings none is
more n?ceary than her parse or pocket
book, and next to this her belt bog, slnco
the fiat has gone forth that the fashion
able dame is no longer to be allowed her
good old-time pocket in her gown.
This season 13 introducing something
quite new in ihe way of bags and porte
mormalcs. those made from Mitylcne "mo
rocco, which are of a rough finish; or those '
styled the empire ecrasse, with a smooth,
shiny surface.
The colors most In vogue forthese modish
arUcle-a are dark blue, green, and brown
as the lasis. these solid lines being
mottled over with pale blue, yellow or
clouded white, for instance a brown pocket
book Is speckled over with yellow flecks,
a dark green one with dull white.
The largest size of pocket books Is de-
j signed for holding bills, change and vis
iting cams, ami is long with square cor
ners. This costs $10 and is plain, merely
ornamented with a miniature notch in
one corner, or elaborately trimmed with
Colonial gold mountbigs. This gilt is
dull and rich, and is patterned in ex
quisite designs of scroll-work or ara
besque. A second size is smaller, but similar in all
other res-pects. This is valued at SS-50.
The purse is smaller still and difrcreiit
In form. It comes in two or three sizes,
anil is somewhat less expepsive than the
pockelbook. Across the top it is straight,
curving below. The flap Is also oval and
Is decorated In colonial gold, a favorite
manner being a wide band headed by a
narrow gold beading'.
The canl-case is a square oblong ami
is mounted nt Its corners In dull gold nt
has the narrow beading running entirely
around it.
The masculine members ot society are
not torgotten, their pocketbooks being ex
tra large, Uielr card-holders extra small.
The latter are tall and thin and have a
long, slender flap ornamented in gold,
which falls forward and prevents the cards
from escaping.
A unique Utile purse is or brow n smooth
leather, and is twisted Into shape like a
wheel. II is. fastened with a little silver
clasp, and when the owner has taken out
her charge ihe dainty conceit whirls llsclt
back into shape nnd lies smooth and flat.
Morocco In all colors Is gre-atly ravorcd.
the alligatorTind lizard skins beins some
what relegated to the background.
The belt-bags or Mltylene and empire
ecrasse are striking and lmndsomc. and
will be chosen lo wear with modish gowns
or cloth and -richer Starrs. They have colo
nial gold mountings, or are finished it
silver or their own morocco.
Seal and lizard bags are still displayed,
but those ot morocco or elephant's hido
are to bo the rage, as that leather has
reached the zenith this tall and is shown
on every hand, designed for every pnrpc se.
A noticeable bag Is or Mexican alligator
skin mounted In silver. It is brown or a
whitish tan lchnennil is oddly ornamented
with the rough portions of the hide Titic ,
have not been removed.
Japanese nnd Opium.
A Japanese native paper statesUiat Judg
ment was recently given by the Tokohama.
local court In the case of Tel Keike. a
Chinese residing nt 100 Settlement, and
MIsawa Hntsagord.a nationalized Japaneso
of Chinese birth, who were arrested whilo
indulging in the ue of opium nt the resi
dence of another Chinaman named ItyozeL
llyo-zel was sentenced to hard ialwr for
rtx jears for having sold the opium, and
Uie two others to major confincnicnt for
two years.
Remembering much of the medical evi
dence given before Uie immil.-Joo In India
Japanese autlioriUcs most have.
j,t ,s.I.JI.t--''VASH iJgf r

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