THIS MOil KIOTO TIS,, SOT'PAY, APJ1IL 19,' 1896.
IN LIGHT SPRING: GOWNS THEY PLAN DRESSES"
FOR THE LITTLE ONES
iliss Pullman's Trousseau Is to
Be Rich, but Not Showy,
with a Alagniftcenl Lav
ender Satin for the
The smarter shops are issuing such al
luring invitations Tor their opening recep
hons to thcirclienteletbntlhcyare crowded.
I made the rounds or them the other day
tiil never before had my eyes feasted on
)iich confections. Hats, dinner gown.
Wraps, hail dresses, tour-de-cou fashioned of
)uch dainlj materials-, and petticoats so
?ch and tasteful that it teemed a pity to
idc them under a bushel of skirt.
AH of the shops offer the same delightful
)lUure. Groups of ambitious mother get-
ling around with their hopeful joun
laughters. Krerj body talking between the
"dps of tea or the biilUaut events to come
Sud those that had passed. And how
Sorgeous it all was! And there were seme
avclj girls there shopping for themselves,
n light spiing gowns they planned distract
ig summer dresses over eups of tea.
What a great chance there was to get
a peep into the realm of mothcnlom.
In one I saw a "mother corner." An
English mother and tier daughter were
picking out summer goods. The fond
mutter tat there all excitement, all luss
and leathers, and suggested changes and
made objections, while the daintily dressed
young daughter with her hands folded in
her lap looked to her mother for her cues
mid re-echoed every statement and ex
pressed not one idea of her own.
Then the English girl and her mother
only stayed a little while. They knew
e.aetl what they -wanted when they
started Iron) home.
It w;m not a -tour-de-coii even though
It were fashioned of violets and the dain
tiest lace, nor one of those great fluffy
hats of chilfon and feathers.
It was a very elegant street dress that
they had come to order and a close
Jiitmg hat. This was one of the girls
for whom marriage are arranged.' as
we read m the English papers. -And the
English girl was actually buying her trous
hCiiii in tliib -&ecoiid-hand" way through
A little way off sat one of my own
count r j women and a tall, slender daughter.
They were "shopping" in good home
lashioii. not necessarily intending to buy.
The American mother and her daughter
came to see what they wanted. After
stayiuga long time and seeingall the lovely
tilings that the shops were offering, they
talked tilings over right there and made
MiggestiotijN and objections as though
they were tivo school (hums together.
Elbow capes are -worn by young and
old. The&e short elbow capes seemed to
have been fashioned by the thousands, but
of such tilt ers materials that one doesn't
loci a depressing amount of sameness.
One 1 saw of black satin -was entirely
covered with renais.-ance lace, 'with the
jiattern of the lace so arranged as to form
a border to the capo.
Around the edge or the cape was a full
frill of black chiffon over a frill of deep
cream lace- The tour-de cou ivas a tall
iiiffof black chiffon, finished -with a narrow
cream lace eJging, and at the back was a
lw of broad cense satin nbbou.
One of the waists that a chic dark-haired
model tried on was of short apricot silk.
The long joke was formed of points of old
English lace, put on straight across, and
tom-hiug at the points where the waist
fastened at the front.
Between the points were full chotix
of resede mousseline de t-oie. Bordering
the yoke was a fold of the rcsede mous
behne fie sole held in place with little
cameo puis, and at the shoulder It was al
lo od to fi.iremiheshapeof butterfly wnigf.
The waist was slight !j pointed, back and
front, and was finished with a twist of
green silk. The green silk was u&ed to
face the diminishing box plait at the front
of ttie bodice, and the high tlraight collar
was of the same.
The sleeves of the apneot silk were the
usual full elbow sleeves, with the fullness
railing well away from the 6houlder.
A New York belle, whohasbeeii wintering
on the Mediterranean, was pointed out to
me. She is just stopping in Taris long
enough to have a complete summer outfit
fashioned here- Then she goes on to
Newport for a gay season.
Her go wn was of palest cition silk, with
a design in jcHow roses, very delicate in
color. The skirt was godet, not cry
full, with all the godets at the back. The
bodice was of the green silk with a joke
of pale yellow, covered with black chiffon.
Around the yoke was draped a fichu of
the sort pale jellow silk, edged with a
frill or the black chiffon.
"With tliis costume she wore long black
wiede gloves ttiat reached to the full puff
of the sleeve. The hat was green and
cream straw trimmed profusely with
It is so seldom that one sees anything
new in the art of trimming on the back of
bodices. A silk dre.ss I taw at one of the
shops the other day made quite an iin
pression on me. because there was some
thing so delightfully new in the way Uie
lodice was fashioned at the back- There
was but a single scam, and that at the back
of the bodice.
Where the two fulled pieces coming from
the uuder-arm seams met there was jut
a suggestion of a shirred heading where the
seams came together. As the seam neared
the waist line the fullness increased and
was laid iu slanting plaits and drawn very
tight to gie the effect of a corslet.
The front of tills bodice was blouse, Avith
a full cascade of chirfon, and at the waist
the material was laid in little plaits to give
the same corslet effect as the back.
One of the most popular waists that the
y - ' :
Petticoats So Rich that It Is a
Pity to Hide Them.
model tiled on was a cameo silk with a pre
vailing tone of soft yellow.
The blouse front was draped over to the
left side and fastened with two big bra-s
buttons, which gleamed out through a
cascade of deep cream lace. The high
crush collur and the girdle were or crushed
burnt-orange velvet, and topping the collar
was a full ruff of cream chiffon.
The sleeves were very full and were fin
ished with a "rolled-tip' effect that showed
a facing of plain jellow bilk. Ureal choux
of wide yellow lace fell at the outside seams
of the sleevps.
Quantities or tulle and chiffon are used
on everything. All the short spring capes
are literally covered with gauzy materials.
And the hats are piled high with tulle of
all colors, generallj- a bunch of gieen and
white tucked in among the flowers.
Mrs- lliichle or California, well known
as ttic very wealthy Miss Roach of Cin
cinnati, creates a sensation with her gowns
on account or their originnlllj-. iler court
tobe, in which she bowed to the Princess
of Wales at the rirst drawing-room, had
many original touches.and her street gowns
arc jusl as remarkable.
A 1'aris designer, knowing that I was
interested in all lhings .destined for Amer
icans, gave mc a glimpse of something
new, which, she said, had been ordeied
by Mrs. Ritchie. It was n "blazer" of
black velvet. Tills term gives no idea
or the elegance or the little coat, but it
describes the cut.
The back and sides were tight fitting;
and bordered with jet. The trout flared
to show a lining or white corded silk, and
the vest was a brilliant white silksiudded
with gold. It was the most modish, the
most delightfully chic little garment in the
way or a spring wrap that I have seen.
Miss Pullman or Chicago has beeu having
a trousseau prepared here which in a quiet
way attracted a great deal of alteution.
It is very unusual lor an American girl of
unbounded wealth to want just the thiugs
ordered ror Miss Pullman.
None of her gowns is showy or elaborate.
They are. I might say, models of proprietj-.
1 saw such a lovely gown iu a lavender
shade that suggested mauve to me in an
uiuccouutable way. The skirt was very
large around, as so mauy skirts are, and
was untrimiiied, except by it double rueh
nig ol the lavender satin around the hem.
This niching caused the skirt to Hare
around the reel. It was walking length
and had a very elegant appearance. It
mteJ thehipsas though molded uponthein.
Elegant, 1 thought it, that plain, smooth,
shining skirt or pale lavender satm, with
out too much shine, yet with uo dullness.
The waist fitted hkea glo e. The bodice
met the skirt with a folded belt of lavender
chiffon made quite full and flutfj-. Dowji
the front of the brdtce came another fold
of the chiftou, and the sleeves were fully
puffed, with the chilfon over the satm.
There was not a particle of rcliet m any
waj- about the gown Jroni its lavender
hue except m the lining of the skirt, which
was a brilliant orange. This lining rarely
shows, but when it doe what an impres
sion or underneath elegance it give?-!
Anolherof the gowns which hung among
those marked with Miss Pullman's name
was a deep green, very much like the descrip
tion I lead of a gown worn by Rose
Coghlan in "Madame." It has a skill of
walking length. The skirt is full and
looped in a cunous way over another skirt
of the same color. It 'suggested an over
skirl to mc. jet was more graceful. It
had a little Jacket of a contrasting color
belted with one of those narrow bands
jou see clasping a woman's waist. A model
English trateling suit this, and becoming
to thotc who are willing to experiment
with their modistes in the hoie or some
thing prettj- and original.
Most American brides order recklessly
from Paris. Twenty-five waists, twenty
five rancj' skirts, t wenty-five loose morning
jackets, the same number of tea gown,,
ana innumerable dinner and street tinners
-ire in order. But Miss Pullman, while
not economical, is far fioni reckless. She
gets elegant materials, but is apparently
rree rroiu that affliction of the rich girl
vanitj-. Over here, where she refused a
cousin of a king, it is predicted that both
blie aud her gowns will make a hit.
WHATCHILDKEIS SHOULD READ.
SOME people are afraid of giving children
too many story books. B ut sometimes
the best thing j-ou can do for a child
is to give it a story book- Hut choose it
well, ror children have not the capacity for
judging of a storj-, wbetheritisgoodor'bad.
To satisfy a child's Imagination, when it is
still a little pixy. with a btrong trace of the
other world left, we give him myths and
fairy tales and then gradually lead him
through "Robinson Crusoe"' and its like,
which are a mixture of imagination and
practical life, to something more human.
We next try to impress upon his mind thut
he is not living with fairies, but is a
little man and must take responsibility. Wc
do not want to make life sceni dreary ,'so we
give him a little genuine nonsense mixed
in, like "Alice in Wonderland." Booksabout
animals, "Black Beautj-," the "Jungle
Books," and anything of that kitid teach
him to think and care for others. To empha
size family relationship wc give them family
stories, such jis Ha wthonics '"Grandfather's
Chair" aud MacDonald's short stories. Bj
this time the child is old enough to be a
hero worshiper, nnd "Hiawatha," the"Laj'fl
of Ancient Rome" or Cooper's tales fill the
hero lpnging, the. more spiritual heroes being
provided by tbeGeruinnIliad"TheNcibeluu
genlicd," Lowell's "Sir Lnunfal" and Ten-nj-son's
round table "Idyls" teach the
spiritual side -of a wise mixture of ad
venture, nnd give theldea of trying toconquer
themselves, as well as outside enemies.
i r A
h -j- - -i - t ' --.
Some Devoted to Commerce and
Others Cultivated for Beauty.
The new woman found for herself a
most congenial and charming employment
recentlj-, in cultivating a truck or flower
garden, Just as her individual tastes In
cline to utility or beautj'.
The money-making possibilities in rais
ing violets for the city trade gave the rirst
impetus to tills feminine farming, which has
grown so strong that one woman hasfound it
worth her while to fit herself for the duties
of laying out grounds and gardens in a pro
fessional way. Her engagements for land
scapeimprovements were this year allmade,
and the work set in train long before the
Fcbruarysnows were off theground; and her
most valued patrons are women who, for
the money and profit or for pleasure purelj-,
are going in vigoiously and earnestly for
flower and vegetable culture.
'Naturally enough," said this expert,
"flowersare the chief attraction, and it was
MrsEdward Leavitt, a Southern woman,
possessing a shrewd head for business fo
allthat.wbofiratshowed her sex that flowers
are meant for something more tliair to
wear and spend money on. She is the heaI
just now of the most perfect and scientifi
cally arranged gardens I know, having
glvou up the most fertile acres of her Con
necticut farm to the cultivation of but
three sorts of blossoms. Violets, carnations
and roaes are her specialties, and beauty is
everywhere sacrificed to utilitj-, to ugly
glass houses, cold frames, huge square
beds that are the nurseries of thousands of
This is a garden run solelj'for the money
that is iu t, and it is safe to say that
this lady clears a comrortoble income from
iier winter's sales of flowers ulone. Under
almost miles of glass, she boasts of raising
viuletsasbigus silver dollars, and carnations
the size of roses. With the true zeal of the
practical grower, she is up often at 4
o'clock in the morning to see the blossoms
gathered, studies fertilizers and plant dis
eases with deep enthusiasm, and believes
thai next after human beings flowers are
the most interesting of creations. Butitis
only the flowers raised on scientific princi
ples and abnormal in size that she cares for,
and walking over her property one would
never take Mrs. Leavitt for an up-to-date
enthusiast. In her greenhouses she wears
the daintiest of little flowered bonnets, a
dotted veil, a smart tailor frock and im
maculate gloves. In her employ are expert
workmen, who do everything under her di
rection, and, literally, she believes she
could conduct floriculture, as Von Moltke
did his battles, by telegraph.
Now, a very different type of gardener
is Mrs. George Stanton Floyd-Jones or Long
Island, who, a few years ago, took charge
of the old colonial gardens lying about her
husband's house, with a view to. making
them pay. She has ncer allowed modern
innovations to destroy the old-fashioned
charm of this, flowery domain, and by tak
ing a series of lersons from a capable old
German, she has learned not only how the
' earth should be prepared for violet settings,
but with a set of good rakes, hoes and
shovels, can turn in and, with her own fair
bauds, make a barren bed blossom like a
rose. She understands the art or pruning,
making cuttings, repotting and fertilizing,
and for the sake of looking after her flow
ers prefers to spend her winters in the
In connection with violet and rose grow
ing, Mrs. Floj-d-Jones raises for market
sales the finest strawberries, raspberries,
currants, and melons. They are as beauti
ful and decorative in a garden, she saj-3,
a a flowers themselves-, and almost as
profitable as market sales, and, like Mrs.
Charles Wetmore, another Long Island
gardener, Mrs. Floyd-Jones always wears
about her work a practical, ye$ becoming,
costume. The chief charm of this outfit
is its perfect comfort and suitability-. Very
thick-soled, high-laced boota, a frieze skirt
barely reaching the ankles, a gingham shirt
waist, and wide straw hat are its chief
features. But the lady gardener Is alwaj-a
careful to don heavy, loose gloves, and
those who are ardently interested in the
enterprise, either for loveor monej. in
Bist on knowing how to wield hoe, spade,
and' pruning knife.
One cau never presage, however, what
i. . oe ' i rtt&Lmairiirzrxpj7zt -, .!! rZ-vrtrnxjri w v a -r a.
form a woman's horticultural tastes will
take, Tor Mrs-Taber- Willets of Long Island
raises carrots, beans, asparagus and corn
in a box- bordered garden, along with
a few beds of sweet peas and wallflowers.
Her enthusiasm is for vegetables and she
has personally proved that a little woman
with one farm assistant can keep five acre3
or flourishing green truck in irreproachable
condition. Miss Eastwlck of Philadelphia
turns her attention to, mushrooms and
small fruits, supplies the Lake wood hotels
and grows simple flowers in the lence
She is one of the wometi who took up
gardening for her health and can swing
a hoe down a long row without drawing
an extra breath and puts m from four to
fivehoursofsteadylabor in her garden everj
day. Sheand Mrs. Willets, Mrs.Wetmoreand
Mrs. Floyd- Jones believe that gardening is
the bestof outdoor exercise, and that-wheeling
gravel, weeding paths, pruning hedges,
hunting the early slugs nnd grubbing in the
good warm mother earth is a sovereign re
lief for every ill either flesh or spirits are
heir to and a sure cure for nerves and in
digestion. SHIRT WAIST AXD GIRDLE-
THE shirt waist is still with us. and will
be quite as much in evidence as ever.
There is little of novelty about these
comfortable waists, except the. fact that
the most expensive ones have a lining of
thin but substantial lawn, which causes
them to fit the figure, and appear more
trim than those which arc unlined. Unless
the latterare carefully put on and pinned
down they arc apt to appear baggj- and
Drawing strings are tun in a casing at
the waist, so that they can be readily laun
dered. Adjustable collars and cuffs, like
those on men's shirts, are of white linen or
colored lawn, and are sold separatelj- or
with the waist.
The laundress must use great care in do
ing up these swell waists, which are, how
ever, usually dry cleaned at the dyers, the
resull being more certain than when the
services of the laundress are called in.
Splendid girdles, which have rather a
theatrical appearance, are of gold, elabor
ately chased and studded with caboclion
Jewels of. many hues; clasps Hcintillatlng
with gems fasten these splendid cinctures.
Plnlc Pique Suit.
FRUIT AS A COSMETIC
Uses of a Lemon on fly Lady's
ITS BENEFITS ARE GREAT
For Complexion, Hair, Kails, Teeth, and
Bath There Is Nothing Equal
to Natural Acidity.
The very latest cosmetic is the lemon.
In countries where they grow as freely as
apples do in the temperate zone this fact is
appreciated, and their virtues availed of;
but their admirable qualities are worth y of
wider knowledge. Lemons arenotsocostlj-,
even in the coldest countries, that women
may not easily afford to use this tropical
aid to the toilet.
In the care of the complexion it is invalu
able, particularly in summer, when a few
drops squeezed iuto the water in which the
face is washed removes all greaslness and
leaves the skin fresh and velvetj-. A little
lemon Juice rubbed on the cheeks before
going to bed and allowed to drj- there will
remove freckles and sunburn and whiten the
skin, besidegiving it a charming smoothness
aud softness to the touch. This should be
done about three times a week, both winter
and summer, and is of the greateM aid to
such complexions as are amicted with en
larged and blackened pores. These en
larged pores are due to deficient circula
tion of the blood, and arc to be greatly
aided bj- vigorous rubbing with n coarse
towel eerj' time the face Is washed.
Those who lead a sedentary life find the
circulation feeblest about the nose, lips and
temples, and these partsot thefucesuotildbe
energetically rubbed and kneaded several
times a daj-. When the pores become dis
?? -,.jk iO&dU&zu
tended the fine, invisible dust in the air en
tera and clogs and blacken' them. Mere
ordinary face washing, even when warm
water and soap are used, ii notsufficient to
remove thU dirt in the pore3, but the vigor
ous acid of the lemon will cleanse and carrj
off all such unsightly blemhhes.
In the West Indies a lemon bath Is almost
a dally luxury. Three or four limes or
lemons are sliced into the water, which ifc
drawn half an hour before using, so that the
fruit juiw may have a chance to permeate,
and the dcliciousness of such tubbing must
be felt to be appreciated. The sense of
cleanliness and freshness it gives, and the
suppleness nntlsmoothncsslt imparts to the
akin is an experience not soon forgotten.
The lemon Is more than a substitute for the
bran bath bags, which were Instituted by the
French, and which exquisites think so
neccssarj- for the toilet.
Half a teaspoonful of the Juice of the
lemon squeezed into a glass of water
and used for brushing the teeth gives
the mouth the same feeling of cleanliness
that the lemon bath gives to the skin.
It Is parlicularlj- graterul when sickness
renders the mucous and salivatorj- ex
cretions of the mouth unpleasant. Not
more than half a teaspoonful should be
used, as a powerful acid is bad for the
enamel, but on occasions the proportions
may be increased, as lemon is an active
deodorizer and will remove the smell of
onions or tobacco from the mouth.
As a hair wash and tonic it has no
rival. For the former purpose a large,
Juicj- lemon should be cut in half, the
head dipped in a bowl of water, from
which the chill only must be removed,
and the water made of the samo temper
ature as the air. and the lemon rubbed
and squeezed vigorously among the roots
and along the length of the hair. Soak
and rub the head well in this bath, and
then rinse thoroughly in fresh water of
the same warmth. If well dried at once
Avith energetic toweling there will never
be the smaUcst danger of cold. No soap is
needed. The acid of Uie lemon absolutely
removes all grease and dust, and the
hair, after such a bath, is soft, glossj-,
and clean. This lemon bath once a week
will have the most beneficial effect upon
the hair, stimulating its growth, delaj-tng
the coming of grayncss, and making It
beautlfullj- pliable and poliahed-
For manicuring the lemon Is absolutely
indispeusable. A tcaspoonrul or the Juice
in a cupftil of tepid water whitens and
supples the nails and removes alt grease
and dirt, making them much more easy
to polish. This should be used every morn
ing and by dabbling the fingers a few
moments it is possible to make the nails
perfectly clean aud transparent, without
theuseof any metal cleaner, by simply rub
bing under them with n towel. It is also
most beneficial in removing the skin around
the nail edges, which should never by any
chance be cut with scissors. Kub the towel
firmly all about the nail, pushing back the
skin; do this regularly every day, and after
a few weeks the skin growth win disap
pear and never return as long as the treat
ment is continued. The comparison of
nails kept in this way with those subjected
to the barbarous method or skin clipping
will at once show the advantage of Uie
former manner of treatment.
Finallj-, the lemon upon the toilet table
is a great aid to health. The juice of a
lemon squeezed Into a large breakfast
cup of water, drunk without sugar, and
immediately upon rising and as hot as
can be borne, is the most admirable tonic
and alternative. Xo one should form the
habitof taking even the mlldestaltemative.
but ir the head feels heavy and dull, or one
Is conscious or languor nnd discomfort upon
rising, this lemon draught is one of the
best and simplest methods of clearing out
the sj-stem and restoring Its tone.
E. 3. W.
Plantation Tunle Cover.
The latest novelty for afternoon tea
cloths is to have them bordered by hand
some hems of soft pink, sky blue orlemon
linen. These make a harmonious finish
to the tone or the drawing rocm. For a
small table I have seen a rather neat ar
rangement made rroin a gaudy yellow ban
danna handkerchief. It was embroidered
at intervals with scraps of floss and
tinsel, haphazard such as the whim and
energy of the owner prompted. From the
border was hung a fringe of dolly ribbons
in dull crimson and jellow, studded at
equal distance with big Japanese glass
beads which were threaded through the
ribbon. The tout enscmblo was original
and pleasing, though somewhat bizarre.
Summer Fashions- Approved by
Maids and flasters.
STAND WEAR AND TEAR
Sunbonnels Are to the Fore for Erery-
Day Use, Waile Pokes Are
Used on Sunday.
New York. Apnl'17. New wash clothes
for children rather apparel, so called
aro both prettier and nioro sensible than
ever this year.
There is little of the washtub air about
the way in which some of the dressiest
of. the little costumes ara trimmed, but
though of the moat riower-Iikc delicacy the
new colors are enduring.
There are solid piques in the sky blue and
apple blossom pink that make smart and
useful summer suits Tor maids from four
White Hamburg embroideries in edging
and Insertion-tnni the reefer coats of these
a pp ropria tel j-. outlin ing big turn-back revera
and elaborate cape collars, and edging nr
simulating cufrs for the sleeves.
The plain skirts have usually strapped
seams, and Tor the oldest agea are cat
to hang in front with a suggesUon of thu
grown-up box plait.
Pink pique is also used for small gentle
men in the baby stages, and takes the shape
of cape cloaks and mannish little suits, con
sisting or a reerer coat and kilted .skirt.
Blue being a girl's color, the sky blue
pique is not used for boys. la white piques
duck linen homespun and brown linen
which may be said to be a universal ma
terial this season there are any number of
neat and inexpensive coat and skirt suits
that can be bought ready-made fee both
boys and girls. Russian crash, a stout,
grayish linen, which has much of the look
of kitchen crash, is In high Tavorior rough
summer use for both sexes.
A plain skirt and reerer coat is the model
for girts in this material, which appears
as well in natty little bloomers and blouses
for bicycle us.
For young gentlemen up to ten there
are matdot suits in the Russian crush that,
with their long bell trousers and very low
weefc Mouses, have quite a professional
Great collars appear on the;tlie proper
caper is to have the shield front perfeeiry
plaln, though the shield- of other maielot
suits show-anchors and braids in contrasting
colors, r oar-e hemp watch cbaius, drawn
taut across the breat from two watch
pocket on the blouse, are a genuine
"salt" finish to thcesorvn eable little suits.
But chief among the sensible tfxiurei
used for girls or almost all age-s, are the
linen batistes and grass linens in every
shade or sage ami brown. These copy in
smaller patterns all the de3tgno of the day,
the open guipure insertions, crinkled rib
bon stripe-., and embroidered dots and. fig
ures. Trjmmiug3 for these little frocks ara
likewise grown-up to a degree. White
and unbleached guipure laces, edge revere
collars and bretelles of all sort, and with
knots ot taffeta or velvet ribbon, mauj- a
tiny linen gown wiU show a fiower-baed
lining of rich silk.
Indeed, color is to be this saramer a
feature of Uothea for even the smuUest
girls, though many deligntrul little toilet,
are still seen In pure white.
For every-day summer use there are the.
usual delicately figured and striped linen
lawns, cambrics and percales that, eome
weal or woe. appear every year.
As usual, too. the-ce are trimmed wun
the serviceable Hamburg embroideries, the
solid standby of the laundress- All are
made as simply as iiossible for washing
purposes, and, as last seaon here and
there pale tones will have effective bands
of black satin or velvet ribbon slipped
through white entre deux.
For country use many mothers are nav
inz frocks made for the small fry or the
new madras ginghams, which, in delicate
blue, green and pink stripes, are in weaves
of extreme fineness.
A washable material for sailor coUars
aud revers of cheviot, serge and flannel
suits is a thick linen canvas that comes
in white and color-
A dull red. a china blue, and art greens
are the tones in this, white wash em
broideries often edging the big collars
A combination of blue serge and grass
green linen Is a French novelty that em
braces a ralsa privilege.
The misses' toilet pictured shows a
combination of this sort, and it will be
found in smart and useral models for all
ages between twelve and seventeen.
The plain skirt and belted blouse are
of the serge, the wrinkled sleeves, gamp
and bretelles of the linon.
Sunbonnetsr for small girls are more
than ever plentiful this season,' as are
also daintly frilled and lace trimmed
aprons in all degrees of dressiness.
A "spll suu bonnet is made of striped
and checked ginghams and is delight-fullj-
quaint over round serious little
The poke revival is shown in others in
plum chambrays. and these, as well as
the sua bats In the same materials, are
shirred over cords and have often ro
settes of lace and bows or ribbon.
Poke bonnets for dressy use run much
to rough straw crowns ami frilled gauze
fronts with plain trimmings of old maid
roses and while ostrich feathers.
Last but not least leather belts will
be worn by both boys and girls. Then,
since French children are wearing socks.
Mack or white socks are to be the things
for maids up to six, as well as for their
baby brothers. NINA FITCH.
An Old-Timu Trip. ,
A Belfast gentleman, m looking over his
father's old papers, found a memorandum
of the exponso or going overland from Bet
fast to New York city In 1S25. Five days
were require 1 to make the journey, andthe
expense wits $33. Theveriest otd croaker
that delights to look backward, would f hut
Uie "good old times" uncomfortable ir he
had to go back to them. Augusta, Me-.
Blue Serge and Green Llncu.
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