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THE MOTtNTPTGr TIMflS, SUNDAY. JANUARY 31, 1897
,Bm''''' c- tft "'... sk m m k W m mi rim tLR. Jy X "" When I wrote you last week I spoTce of iiiC advantages to be derived from the use f little l"ac liowder, explaining at M-me length l'or it is possible to add greatly to Llie appearance 1:1 this man lier, and yet ii:ie it impossible Jor Hie sterner sex to dibcern tlii excusjble de ception, even be the eye ever so keen. Now, I am still of the same opinion, hold- " ins that a ivoman is justified iu doing-all she can that is harmless to sdd to herait Ieiirance, and, what I am now about" to" sji of face powders must not be taken ne at all conflicting with my previous state ments. 1 can onlyask pardon for not wan ing yj ;it tlie same time. Beware of using face powdeis. Do not think tliat I am trying to alarm you", for when I explain the many serious results of the careless use of this feminine vanity you -will find that yoa liave been unjust: Wnen I &ay beware of luce powders, ImcaJ). lie most careful or the kind of face pow der yon use, for there are some and I am sorry to hay a large majority of those thm arc sold which will not only ruin your fckiu, but which, if often us-d, will lead to fur more serious results skin diseases, - certainly, and most probably paralysis of' smc of -the muscles of your face. This fart has been known to the medical world for a long time, but the evil was first brought more prominently Iwfore the world at a meeting of hairdrevieisln Paiio. They made an investigation of the various kinds of face powder in use, and Uieir discoveries were of so staitling a nature that they even went so far as to urge the legislature to take action in order to stop the abuses in existence. This fact brought the subject inure prominently before Uhk-c in the United States, who weie interested in the subject, and now, the crime of the chemist is an open secret, and any person foolish enough to ruin their health, after a word of warning, does so with the full knowledge of the consequences. The powders ucd in "the good old days" were made, for the most part, out of powdered rice, but now It is round ttmt the gi eat majority arc only a composition of white lead, btarch, and alabaster. Many, if not all of these powders, are rendered expensive, and incidentally at tractive, owing to their being doctoied up with a variety of perfumes, such as oris, attar of rose, bergamot, orange essence, nd others of a like character. The metallic ingredients to be found are ii-ually carbonate of bismuth, white lead, and arsenic, and the frequency with which parnlysis of the muscles follows the use or white lead Is so well known as to make it scarcely necessary for me to dwell upon the subject And arsenic is cer tainly no le,s injurious. The idea that the deadly drug U good for the skin is one of '-he gravest of mistakes. Only recently a very dear friend of mine lost her little baby, poisoned by the use of "violet powder, which contained 38 per cent, of white arsenic. I would tell you the circumstances of this case, were they not fraught with such sad recollections. It U nso via record that a number ofchildren were recently poisoned in France In the same manner. Now. in uMiig po wderalways be sure that it is pure. And this may usually be accom plished by buying the cheapest kind in the nsurket. Never mind the perfume. If you wish the odor wipe your face over with a perfumed cloth before you apply your pow der and you will get the desired result. Of the various kinds of powder 1 mustleave you to judge for yourself. If you follow my example you will make your own out of pure powdered rice or chalk. If you could only ha-e been at my side when I inspected a number of new gowns tftata friend of mini has just brought home from Paris 1 am sure the slight spark of envy you possess would have develojM-d into a i&rgc-sizcd flam- They were all marvels or beauty My friend is noted for her good taste, and under no circumstances will ertr wear anything that is not the very latest style, and having a purse long enough to graliry her wnim, as uie men. cad it, sue has. of course, a most modern wardrobe. Her recent visit to the gay French capital was made with the express purpose of In 1. Evening gown of black and white etnpea slit with a floral pattern in white meandering down each stripe. The bodice haa a Test of roseate silk, lightly draped with lisue, studded with ullvor sequins-, a.Bd over cadi shoulder is a fold of roseate' Telvot, tid attaetop intoabovr- -SSl HI0NJ specting and securing the latest models nd in tins way she spent two weeks in Paris. The skirts of these gowns are in nearly every case most elaborately trimmed. Tins latter style is the only fault that I found willi the toilettes, and this because they would notshow to advantage the figureof a small woman. And we must ronsider tin small woman in giving the stamp of np .provaltoanysiyle that isto icign, for there are quite a number of them, mjM'lf in cluded. The first of the gowns I inspected was or Venetian cloth in a new shade of grass, green. It had three bands or chinchilla by way of trimming, arranged in deep Vandyke points, the bands being about a quarter of a yard apa.it and eneiiLliiig ttie skirt in a l.oiizontal direction. The bodice is not like anything I ever saw before. It has a deep corselet or jeweled passemen terie on cream satin, small emeralds re peating the green or the cloth surrounded by a mass of tiny brilliants and silver se quins. Sequinst by the way, are becoming 'llaily more fashionable. Hut to continue ..with the gown. Below the jeweled corse let there are some quaint little basques of cloth bordered with chinchilla, while above there is a rlolli bolero, very trimly cut and edged witli chinchilla. Around the armholes are bands of soft gray fur. while epaulettes of plain cloth, and very full, are of a somewhat different shade o r green. -The .sleeves fit quite Uglily from the shoul der to the wrist, a 'sure warning that the "day of the balloon sleeve is over. Thecen- .ter. of the front of the bodice Is finished in the daintiest maimer Imaginable, with a bow of' white satin at the throat, and a jabot of fine cream lace, -a second bow of the satin being plnced where the jabot "ends. Altogether the composition is a, masterpiece and makes a superb toilette for a woman with dignified carriage. I suppose that I 6hould look a "fright" in it, and I must confess that I round sumo comfort in the thought. Another gown is made most effective by the graceful use of astrakhan, the skirt being of sapphire blue cloth, arranged in a scries of graduated panels, each edged with stripsof fur running from the waist to the hem. A beep band of dark blue velvet encircles the waist, the upper part of the bodice being of chine silk, arranged in deep tucks, running horizontal! j, and de signed to have the appearance of scattered cornflower blossoms, and green 1 eaves, on a foundation of the palest tea-rose yellow. Strange to say, there is nothing but the most perfect harmony in these shades. The dainty bodice is half concealed under a double bolero of dark blue cloth, ear if zouave being edged with ustrakhau, and cut into a bliarp point. The sleeves arc cut in three leaf-like epaulettes, cut in points like the bolero, and edged with a tiny strip or fur. The tailor-made gown of the collection of nut-brown cloth has a skirt that fits closely to the figure from the waist to the knees. It is trimmed just below the knees with three bands of sable, the furencircling the skirt, and the bands being about six inches apart. Below the bottom row of fur Is placed a full deep flounce or brown cloth, which sets off a pretty foot in a most charming manner. The bodice is made in a tight-fitting shape, with short, full basques bordered with sable, and neatly cut; 'cloth revers edged with sable, and turned back to show a waistcoat or Louis Seize brocade, the floral designs being worked out in small silver sequins. This is a model that will suit almost any kind of figure, and it is a particularly smart-looking model. There were also two lonely princess dresses. Now a princess gown is one of the most perfect styles, of dress, if there isa perfect figure underneath, orif a figure can be made shapely by judicious padding, but such a garment on a woman who Is naturally angular and thin, to my mind isa perfectal omination. We, in Amer'ea, I am pleaEed to say, are aware of all these things, and Dame Fashion allows us to dress according!,, as long as we keep, within range or the leading style. The styles of princess robe ib being can ltd over into the summer gowns, and for these who can wear them I cannot recom mend anything prettier. Of the suggesting of fresh fields of femi nine activity, there is iowadaj.s no end Almost every week seems to bring with itthe recommendation of some new employ ment for women. A s yet, however, no one has .succeeded inpioposing anything of the kind that has threatened the supremacy which the avocation of the professional nurse continues to hold in the affections of the woman "with a mission." The nursingslster ortiie new dispensation isubiquitous. Hertrim figureanddemurelv 2. Evening dress of pale pink net over palest pink satin, trimmed with frills, edged with Valenciennes lace. The bod ice Is made of pleated net and trimmed with the frills and lace again, tied with ribbon. Itlssoftand dainty to a degree. iJiciurcsi'Ui habit ai becoming haidly less familiar In public i laces and convey ances than In the lospitnl ward itseir. Noting all this, the superficial observer is naturally impressed with such evidence or the epidemic of self-sacrificing de votion, that seems to have so largely in ft i-vcuuiu j oung and la.i oi goou un.iiUou and presentable appearance within lecent years. Unless a misnogynist by temperament or conviction, no i.- tout to iLcogm.i: unto any discount should be allowed for the v mmmk - " -", - v 8- fy? - l !'"?. ym$r SMBxxSShw rM vsMzmfm Wm. WKS? JwS"4wffiw 1. Princess gown of blue figured mous seline de i'lnde over silk. Lace yoke and lower part of sleeves. The ribbon over the fact that the nurse's untfoim sets off an attractive figure to very considerable ad vantage, and that the role of professional ministering angel is not only effective iu itr self, hut lias compensations which may we)l suffice to commend it to some w1k are not iiiiiwlled to its adoption by purely disinter ested motives. The observer who is not superficial, and has had opportunities or tudjing the modern "lady iiuise'' at close, quarters, is obliged to regard her prevalence, and sometimes her method of sustaining her interesting assumption with more qualified, feelings. Andlhecloserand mere varied Uio experience lias been the stronger is likely to' be the conviction that something is needed to be said about the little ways or the up-' to-datesickroDinniinistmnt.andthe motives by which she is too often actuated. There is nothing to prevent the pro fessional nurse or the new older from being either a frivolous poseuse, animated by a mere craving for adventure, ami for the consideration of which her .status and her uniform command, orclsra designing young woman. uncruiiulouslv bent nnnn turn. ing the unique advantages or her position o the best personal account. There is no uenying that examples of both classes are sufficiently numerous. The airs and graces of the self-conscious young trained nurse, who assumes control not merely of her pa tient, but of the entire household, who delegates two-thirds of her legitimate du ties to tile servants, and who does not hesi tate to disparage and even improve upon the doctor's treatment, are endured too often, and, as a,rule, with a too exemplary patience. But she, arter all, is harmless in in comparison with the siren who deliber ately bets herself to utilize the position as ji meatus of practicing uiwntliesusceptibilityoftlieeligiblepatierit. . - (,i.ty ije time some num aie "ntaru:ed at first" at the discovery that tlu-ir sick room lias been handed over to the guardi anship or a stranger of the superior sex; but the cases are probably rare in which a young and piesentable nurse does not speedily succeed in combating any such inJMal coyness, and in rendering her pres ence, first, agreeable, and finally indis pensable lo the patient. He may even lie iorgiven in his hour of weakness ir lie comes to regard the devoted ministrations of his attractive nurse as the one compen sative circumstance iii connection with the illness that lias laid him low. This Mate of mind necessarily afrords unrivalled opportunities to the certified siren at his bedside Tor the furtherance of her de signs;aiul that .she well understands how to avail herself of them, ha been proved in not a- few instances, the details or which have been aired lately in the daily press. Of the other peculiarities of nurse, vr.tr-l patients iu iiospitlas are often elo quent. Etincielle. Perhaps He Conldn't "Write It. "I'd like to know who is bending jne these anonymous letters," said the head of the firm. "And fwat's that?'' asked the porter. "A letter withoutany signature, ofcourse. This makes the third one r have received in two weeks." "Perhaps,'' sard Mike, "perhaps the poor man cannot write Ids name at all." Indianapolis Journal. Marriage Tangles (Fpm the New York Herald.) Onojof themiost important pieces or leg Islatlorj contemplated is the reconstruction or the marriage laws to conform with the needs of the- time. The abuses which have been possible, leg-ally and otherwise, by the construction put upon common law by ju dicial decisions, have made it necessary In shoulders and the sash bow at the back is pale blue. 2. Embroideied miille gown, pale blue ground, with printed and em the opinion "of lawyers that the existing statutes should be more stringent in their provisions concerning the marriage con tract. A Assemblyman Austin, of New York, ib at work preparing the drartor it bill with this purpose in view. It will prooably be pre sented early in the. session, and the piesent indications are that it will be made a Re publican measure and will tneiefore be come a law It is proposed to amend at least ten bectlpns of the existing statute, so that it will hereafter be necessary to secure a license before the ceremony of marriage can be performed in tlis State. The main intention is to prevent the evils arising from common law marriages, and a certain class" of will contests. Property rights will thus be protected K the law is amended. The amendments will be fram ed so as notto Interfere with the legitimacy of children. According to t lie plan ,in contemplation, it will be illegal to perform the marriage ceremony without the pre scribed State license, and all such marriages must- be reported to the State Board of Health within five days, a fine being pro vided as a penalty in case of failure to com ply with this provision. The record of marriages will be kept in the bureau of vital statistics and in the .archives of the State Board o'f Health, and thus will fur nish a.valuablcaueans of reference. "In the cases of what arc known as common law' marriages it is intended that no such .compact shall be legal un less the parties appear before .a justice of the peace and declare their intention, which becomes. a matter ofrocon. other details are under consideration, with the .objectof training tnc proposed statutesoas to fully, meet-jie needs of the complex situation." jff This quotajidc from the Tiles or a re cent law iublcalon will explain the reason for 'the following articlcT That the State ofJjcw-York needs a revision of her marriage laws is more astonish ing than tliCrH-known fact of the cry ing necessity for' such revision in many of the other States. AVo cry out against divorce, but.- as one eminent jurist per tinently remarked, "Take rare of the marriage ia'ws and the divorce cases will take caye of themselves." A laxity in marriage" laws begets a laxity in di vorce laws. Jrf William Lj .Snyder, in a work called "The Geography, of Marriage," makes the following assprV'pn: "II is a remarkable fact that, not withstanding the vital importance which attaches to the marriage contract, the rules of law which govern it are con fllctlng and contradictory and lack uni formity and harmony to a degree un known in connection, with any other species of contract. Every country, ev ery State, in view of its political sov ereignty, prescribes the rules which shall prevail within its borders as to social order and domestic life. The law of marriage in Euglaud differs radically from that which prevails in Ireland. Iii the United States every fetate and every Territory enacts U own peculiar code of laws on the subject of marriage and divorce, and these are so varied and diverse as to give rise to a seeming interminable jumble and compli cation. "The many systems which prevail in thirty-eight States, nine Territories and theDlstrlct of Columbia, cmbracingthe geo graphical dominions of the United States, excepting Alaska, are so radically different in many Instances, and this difference is so imperfectly understood throughout the country, that these novel and embarrassing controversies growing out of matrimonial entanglements result as a necessary con sequence of systems bo complex and varied, and concerning- which, though the subject has been widely discussed, no legislative ef fort to render uniform and harmonious hasthus farbeenaccomplished. SinceeVory broidered white figures. Lace yoke and blue tarfeta neck and waistband. S. Challie dress, white ground and lavender figures, State. Territory and country has legislated independently on these important, subjects the rules with regard to marital rights and obligations are as diverse and varied as the geography of the world. "It is apparent from these observations that, iu order lo determine whether a mar riage is valid, or whether in view or a sub sequent marriage the rirst marriage lias been dissolved; in order to ascertain whether offspring are legitimate, whether property rights attach, whether the crimi nal statutes for the punishment or bigamy o'r polygamy have been violated, the rirst and essential inquiry must involvea question or geography: Where, in whaDStateor coun try, was the marriage contract, or in what locality was It sought to be dissolved? Questions or sentiment give way to ques tions or geography in solving matrimonial problems and in determining the rights which pertain to the matrimonial state." A well-known lawyer once put three questions to the assembled guests at a large dinner party. There were between twenty-five and thirty persons present, and though he received replies from every one, not one was correct in every respect. The questions were these: "What is the least service or ceremony required in the State you live in to con stitute a marriage? "What is the youngest age at which a man or woman can lawfully marrj with out regard to the parents' consent? "What are the degrees of relationship within which marriages are piohiuit ed?' "Try this for yourself," he said. '-Ask the first half-dozen people you meet, write down their answers, and you will probably be amused and astonished at the diverse ideas on these matters. But all these good people arc supposed to know the law and govern themselves by it. The replies made to me were such that more than hair of those who answered might commit bigamy and not know that they were breaking the law. They thought they could absolutely con trol their children's marriages, when tliey had no legal power. They imagined the law to be more strict in the matter of prohibited degrees than it is. How can we ever reform our bad laws until the 'general reader' will understand their badness? People must know the facts before they will be ready to co- ) operate for an improvement. Most peo ple find it almost impossible to be in terested in 'dry statistics;' jet it is not dry' to learn how young was the most youthful bride in their State." Since, therefore, marriage and divorce are regulated not by national law, uni form throughout the whole country, but by State laws, we have as many dif ferent sets of laws as there are differ ent States or organized Territories. The strictness fr laxity varies according to. the latitude and longitude. One State will be strict in one matter and lax in anolher. The question, "What ceremony is necessary to make a valid marriage?" can be answered in ways which vary j from the strictness of Maryland to the laxity of New York; or, perhaps it would be better to say. "to the laxity of Indian Territory or Alaska," for the decision as to Indian unions vary greatly? In Mis souri, after some hesitation, they have been upheld as being marriages, but else where, because they are polygamous and allow divorce or repudiation at will, they have not been treated as marriages at all in some States certain races are under disability to intermarry, which Is not the case elsewhere. In one State a license law prevails, in another none. The pro hibited degrees vary from the Tiidiana strictness to the New York laxity. In causes for divorce, they vary from the prohibition of all divorce in South Caro lina, or from the strictures of New York trimmed with lace ruffles. Lavender satin ribbon at neck and waist. Large pearl buttons. to the laxity of Washington Slate. In short, we have chaos. There is a large group of States in which the law is well settled that no cere mony at all is required. People marry themselves and need no officiant. They need no witnesses, although it may some times be hard to prove the marriage with out them. "Still, they are rather conven iences to establish the fact than necessities to make the union. These points have not all been affirmatively held in every State, but the general principles of the "Scotch law of mairiage" have been established In half of our States. It ;eems to be a fact that the only thing necessary to constitute marriage in Sen York and the other States following the same policy is mutual consent, and that is not always necessary even. It strikes me as monstrous that the St.ife should hold to be married persons those who, in point of fact, did not mean to marry each other, or do not know that they are married; that the State should force into matrimony those who never consented and who are un willing to marry. 3. Theater toilette of lavender cloth with gold embroidered brocade bodice. This entirely novel design has the upper portion cut in bolero shape aud short enough to disnlaj a wide-draped waist 11 .tfSv-i, &?&iIf-W zSzai AN ENEMY OF YANKEES A Southern Woman Who Com plained to Grant Sho Uked the Conestoga Horses ThatLeeBroiiRht Hack From Hi Campaign in Pennsylvania. Gen. Horace Porter gives many amusing pictures at army life in his series of papers on "Campaigning with Grant," no wrunning In the Century. He tqlls the following story of the campaign on the North Anna in the February Century: When Irecrossed the river and returned to headquarters In the evening I found Gen. Grant .sittingin front of his tent, smoking a cigar and anxious to hear the report as to the extent of the damage to the railroad. About the time I finished relating to him what had been ac complished, an old woman who occupied a small house nearby strolled over to head quarters, apparently bent upon having a rriendly chat with the commander of the Yankee armies. The number of questions she asked showed tha";she was not lacking of curiosity which is supposed to be com mon to Iiersex. She wore an old-fashioned calico dress about six Inches too short, with thesleevei rolled up to the elbows. Shehad a nose so sharp that; It looked as if it had beencaughtlnthecrackotadoor.aadsmall gray eyes that twinkled and snapped as she spoke. She began by nodding a familiar "How do you do?" to the general, and saying In a voice which squeaked like the high notes of an E flat clarionet with a sofe reed: "I be lieve you command all these h'vah Yan kees that are comin down h'yah and ca vortin' round over this whole section or country." The general bowed an assent, aud she continued: "I'm powerful glad Gen Lee has been Iickin you-all from the Rapidan cl'ah down h'yah, and that now he's got you Jes wh'ah he wants you." Then she drew up a camp-chair along side the general, seated herself on it. and finding that her remarks seemed to he re ceived pood naturedly, grew still more ramitiar, and went on to say: "Yes, and aro long Lee'll be a-chasin you-all up through Fennsylvany ag'in. Was you up thah in Pcnnsylvany when he got aftah you-all last summer?" The general had great difficulty in keeping his face straight as he replied- "Well, no; I wasn't there inyseu. I had fome business in another di-rc-it o;. " He did not explain to her that Vk ksburg was at that time commanding ro lething'of his attention. Said she "I i.otIcc our toys got away with lots of 'eat Conestoga horses up thah, ami thry brought lots of 'em back with 'em. We've &ot a pretty good show of 'om round this s 1 1 on of country, and they're Jes the Lest draft-horses you ever seen. Hope the Lo,'lI get up thah ag'in soon, and bring bark?ome more of 'em." The general kept on smoking his cigar, and" was greatly amused by the conversa t'on After a little while the woman went back to her house, but returned later, and said "See h'yah; I'm air alone in my house, and I am kinder skeered. I expect them l'ankee soldiers of yourn'll steal everything I have and murder me aio morning. If you don't give niesniueprotec t'on " "Oh," replied the general, "we'll set- that yon are not hurt;" and turning to Lieut. Hnnn of the staff, he said: "Dunn, you had better go and stay in the old lady's house tonight. You can probably make j ourself more t omfurtable there than in camp, nnyr.ow; and I don't want her to be frightened." Dunn x allowed the old woman rather re h:c tantly to her house, and playrd guardian angel to her till the next morning. Byron as a Lnly Killer. What a lady-killer Byron was is wit nessed bj this extract from the lately published Jermyn letters: "Lady Caro line Lamb is now enamored with Lord Byron and has, it seems, forehore the fash ionable Business of Waltzin because he disapproved of it. A few nights since, at a ball at Lady Heatheote's she was overheard akln Lord Byron to Let her Waltz. His reply was that it was indif ferent to Him what she did, and bis Last answer to a whisper was. 'Then take the knife.' This was passed at Supper and when the Ladies retired she went .ip with them into a Bed chamber, took a glass of water and smashed It to pieces in her Hand, by which means she was very much Cut; then in a moment produced a Knife and put it up to her throat. She was. however, stopped from doing serious Mis chief, and they now say She is out of her Senses." And Good for Malloryt One of the rich men of Jersey City is "Mike" Mallory, a contractor. He has lought a fine carriage and pair. One or his friends who saw him driing the other day suggested that he should have a coat of arms on his carriage. "Do you see that mud on the wheels?" said the contractor, indignantly "I made me money onto mud and stone, and mud's all the coat of arms I need." "What It Cos.ts to Die. Testimony in a recent suit in a Pari: court developed the fact that a fashionable undertaker's charge for embalming tin body of an American is SGOO. Tne charge for embalming Dotn Pedro was $1,000, and for the King of Hanover, $2,000. band or lavender satin. The puffs u th mediaeval 'sleeves are of satin to mnl!i also the pleated ruff supporting the Eliz.-i bethau frillaround the neck. Pl-iited satin fills up Hip square openings at the top of the bodice.