Pittsburg dispatch. [volume], March 23, 1890, THIRD PART, Page 20, Image 20

About Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923

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THEY'LL DAZZLE CKEATIOX.
The IImiilnrar Sprfi.g Snim Icilo Which
the I-ndica Aro About to Mrp A Gor
ged: Aroo uf Wootrua Cotorn That
Comp With Iho Reason.
rwBiTTi::; rott this msrATcn.1
i 1 HE dreams and fan-
j r cies of far-off brains,
I I and the cunning of
I practiced eyes and
ji hands have united
lc make this
spring's fashions in
woolens notably
brilliant in color
and exquisitely
dainty and novel in
desien and finish.
Like the prophetic
small boy we
chuckle and say
"Just jou wait!'' trait until e jet our
luw runs, and see if the v.-rlil is not the
brighter for our coming; and if we don't
look wholly leminiue once more, and not
halt man, as in the days of the now effete
tailor gown, when, to obey the autocrat of
fashion to the very letter of the law, we
were required to masquerade in a coat
basque with rolling collar, pocket flaps, a
showing of white linen in imitation of a
fchirt, a too-plain-for-anything skirt and a
derby.
But we didn't all obey the edict, did we?
and in consequence this extreme was not
suo-e popular than the law allowed. From
one extreme to the other would wc go if we
consented to blindly follow a leader. The
French, in their endeavor to modif. the
A Caplnaltng Jtobc
ugly severity of these gowns, have entirely
destroyed their distinguishing features of fit
and finish. For instance, would vou ever
have designated as tailor-made, a design by
Felix as follows:
THE FRENCH EXTREME.
"A brown shirt of checked wool, made in
straight English fashion; a basque of darker
brown cloth, opening on a double-breasted
waistcoat of pale fawn-colored cloth, cut
out at the top like a man's waistcoat, dis
closing a shirt frout of pale blue crepe de
chine, box-pleated, feather-stitched" and
tucked; the blue crepe extending up to form
a standing collar, while the back is of the
brown cloth turned down; the top of the
waistcoat edged with a galloon of jet and
gold beads; two rows of cnt steel buttons set
on the darts below the bust; the coat sleeves
full enougn at the top to be gathered and
set high in the arm holes, with inside cuffs
of pale fawn cloth extending in points up
the arms, and bordered around the wrists
with the jet and gold galloon."
Now, French or no French, isn't that just
horrid? I really think it I were to close my
eyes and succeed in seeing that conglomer
ation of colors, materials, jet, gilt and steel,
in all its awfulness, I should have the night
mare in broad daylight.
And now take up the cross of fashion and
follow me and I will show you colors and
creations in tasteful contrast to that of Mon
sieur Felix, and that could only have been
designed in happy Dreamland and not dur
ing sleepless nights, as some one has re
marked. Sleeplessness, the result of brains
sweated by the travail of thought, is not
productive" of such happy results as are to
be seen bordering the selvedges of spring
suitings; instead of flowers and harmony
we would have had hobgoblins and discord.
WHAT THE SPRING OFrERS.
Camel's hair serge, this spring, is not the
antiquated fabric one would expect from the
name, but a beautifully fine novelty, carry
ing its own line of trimmings, as do also all
ine new tunings, j.nese ifrencn serges,
cheveron cloth, English suitings, foule suit
ings, alpacas and even the venerable cash
mere all come in the new shades, with
which we may as well right here and now
get acquainted.
The seven original colors continue to
"multiply and replenish" in a way script
urally gratifying. From the old cardinal
stock we now have enough red to paint the
town and in shades unknown to the oppo
site sex. "We mention the new tones only.
Ponceau is a twin brother to cardinal; Bor
deaux is the same color blended with pur
ple; mountain red is a light Bordeaux;
Titian is a yellow-red, and is named after
the famous artist who so delighted to crown
his ideals with hair of that uncommon
color; acajou has a terra-cotta dash; Flem
ish ia a new came for an old color, being
old pink or what we last sea
son calied Vieux rose; orchid is the
same color spelled dificrently; rosewood
is a purplish red; ten, a flaming shade;
corail and chaudron, light shades of old
rose; imperial, a deep rich shade, etc In
greens we have many shades, cythera,
tilleul, baltic and ntle, for evening wear;
lizard is a bluish and reseda a grayish green;
verdette is a mountain green ia leaf and
pine shades; mousse is bronze rechristened
and sages remain in favor. There is nothing
newer in blue than tho Edison or electric.
Goblin, zapbir, royal, navy, Persian and
ciel or sky, are represented in all fabrics of
the season. Biege is a new shade between
mordore a golden brown and ecru and is
popular; the silver shades remain pre
eminently elegant; but
AST COLOR SO IT'S PURPLE
teems to be the motto of the most dressy.
R
f s wsL.i.iv1,Tir;i
'W
Pnrple is undeniably king of the color
world, and "purple and fine linen" attire is
to make a matchless combination. This
color we have in the royal, amethyst, violet,
heliotrope, lavender, lilac and cge plant. A
serge, pale lilac in color, has lengthwise
stripes of white canvas weave, alternating
with dark satin stripes of the lilac ribbon
effect.
This same style was shown me with black
stripes on gray, which pretty pattern will
recommend itself to the elderly. Another
handsome suit for persons in second mourn
ing is black, with the now customary border
in black and white honey-comb effect; this
in silk and wool shot-weave.
A captivating robe in the new egg-plant
shades would be fashionably elegant made
after the model herein illustrated. The
border with this suit is in white and egg
plant blocks roughly shot with black, the
dress beincr of a lighter shade. The combi
nation of white, black and the two shades
of this new purple is novel and effective.
Another of these studies in wool, and one
of the most exquisite composites or wool,
velvet ami silk, is in the new Chandron
shades. The border is 24 inches wide in
opeu work or canvas stripes of the wool, the
effect being a shade lighter than the dress;
and silk gros grain stripe same width with
blocks of velvet 1J inches square spaced
through the center of silk stripe. The
illustration is a perfect model for this robe
as well.
AKOTHEE PURPLE BEAUTY.
Another from the purple family is in ame
thyst shades; a scroll work lace effect on sel
vedge, with elaborate sprays of flowers and
leaves in two shades. Stripes are favorite
border, many being in the rough weave
called Knickerbocker; others in smooth satin
alternating with the canvas stripe already
described, and again civen a Pompadour
effect by the introduction of small figures,
flowers and leaves between stripes.
One of the newest features in these
selvedge borders is the introduction of black
stripes on colors this to be put at foot ot the
sKirt. Then there are all manner of designs
for panels, some flower designs in moon
stone, others in natural colors with an intro
duction of tinsel. These gay borders on
bltck are not infrcqucnt,and certainly make
a rich costume. Ou many of the colored suit
ings are designs in black silk escurial effect,
and so true to representation that seeing one
of these robes made up the uninitiated
would suppose the lace laid over the colored
wool. These designs are in set pieces, panel.
vest, collar and cuffs, and when over the
new beige, light violet or other newest col
ors, the effect is novel enough to be pleasing.
Karsun suiting is the name of a very soft
fabric capable ot the most artistic draping.
Amber suitings have a herring-bone and
gros-sain stripe alternating. Broadway cord
is a material which pleased my fancy and
recommended itself to me for utility wear.
All the tartan plaids come in wool as well
as silk, and it is now decreed they must be
made on the bias. To enforce this, proba
bly, many of them are striped diagonally,
so that, although cut straight, they appear
made purposely on the bias.
HINTS FOR THE MOTHERS.
I would like to name a shepherd's check,
which it occurred to me was the material of
all others for children's wear, but just here
"my think-work slips a cog," as Bill Nye
would say. Anyhow, the name is not forth
coming. However, these soft twilled checks,
whether English, French or American, will
suggest fitness and economy to the practical
mother on sight, and the correct name will
be of little consideration. Then for the
mother there are robes in neutral tones, with
shepherd's plaid border. Some of these
small checks combine three or four colors of
light shades very effectively, as mauve with
brown and blue, gray with violet, beige
with brown and of course black with white.
Mohairs or brilliantines remain popular
for summer travelling wear, and have lost
none of their luster during the winter's ab
sence. They are in all shades, beige, reseda,
etc. A novelty in cashmere suitings is a
woven fringe finishing the border edge.
These borders are in stripes or broche and
of pretty contrasting colors.
Seart or handkerchief suits are prettier
and more effective than before. They come
now woven in silk on the fine serge.
Verv nearly did I forget to mention the
newest and most unique of all suitings, the
point de Jenes. I long for winged "words
thatwill carry a direct and accurate con
ception. I think the name implies the
trimming and not material which impressed
me as belonging to the numerous serge
family. This trimming is lully a half yard
deep, of very heavy wool embroidery in
Vandyke or otherwise pointed, pattern, and
to be used for foot band, the points upward,
and in waist according to fancy. The suit
which has left the most lasting impression
on my mind was ot amethyist color, with
the heavy lace effect in cream white.
ME CHARACTERISTIC.
The pen is not mighty enough to paint
these art studies in wool as they really ex
ist, and I have only attempted to plainly
and without flourish call your attention to
them and to the fact that in these new
styles individualism is the chief character
istic. "We need no longer buy our dresses
off the same web and trimming off the same
bolt, dependent upon the ingenuity of
modistes for our individuality. The de
signs have done awav with all this and Mrs.
Iiolty need no longer look like a walking
echo of Mrs. Dash and all of us like peas
in a pod, differing only in size.
There is a suitable color and style for
each one of us, so alter observing a few
rules and regulations, if we are sure of our
individual taste, we can consult it freely,
and in Partington language one need not
be as "rich as Creosole" to become the
happy possessor of one or more of these
ideal suits even a newspaper writer may
be in fashion's swim this spring. Thanks
are due Messrs. Boggs & Buhl for hints in
the preparation of this article. Meg.
WOMEN WHO L0YJ3 DOGS.
In Washington Fust, Mngllff nod Poodle
Fnre as Well as Cblldien.
iwEnris roa the dispaich.1
Countless women in "Washington make
pugs, mastiffs and poodles their fad. There
is no city where so many curs need not go
afoot. They are either stowed under their
mistresses' arms or have a seat in their car
riages. By all odds the wife of ex-Senator
Palmer, of Michigan, had the most
blooded dogs of any of the fanciers of ca
nines. She especially likes tiny French
spaniels and terriers, and she had a pair
imported from France last winter that
could be squeezed into a finger bowl.
Think of a dog with a maid! But that
is what her pets had; the prettiest blue
eyed lass in "Washington used to walk
out from 9 to 11 every bright morning with
a retinue of yelping, frisking puppies.
Senator Palmer was just as fond of them
as his wife, and he used to spend hours
teaching them tricks. Many a registered
practitioner has been called upon to treat
Mrs. Palmer's dogs for a wheeze or dis
temper. "When her husband went to Spain
last summer as United States Minister, she
took the dogs and their maid.
The Patten sisters, of "Washington, love
THE
immense mastiffs, and they rarely walk tho
streets without these attendants. The mar
ried sister, Mrs. Glover, wife of the former
Congressman from St. Louis, has a liking
for pugs as well as mastiffs. One of Mrs.
Glover's pug dogs is extremely valuable,
and she takes it every where with her. Last
summer she had it at a high priced ho'el,
and Monsieur Pug's bill was $10 per week.
Miss Leiter, the Washington heiress and
beauty, is just the proper thing when she
walks Connecticut avenue of a morning
with a mastiff hound which is almost half
her height. It is a fine animal, and $1,000
would not be purchase money for it
Horses and dogs are the chosen pets of
wealthy women, but there is one Washing
ton lady who thinks more of her parrot than
Think of a Dog With a Maid!
of all other animals. She is Mme. Horacio
Guzman, who is accredited with being
the prettiest woman in the diplomatic
corps. Her husband is the Nicaraguau
Minister, and one of his presents when
he was wooing the fair American girl was
this choice bird. It is a picture to see the
lovely woman hold her parrot a la Lesbia
with her dove and discourse to it. "Pre
ferito" is the name given by M. Guzman to
the pet, but it often gets the English equiv
alent, "Darling." Caroline Pepper.
A SHOWY CMTBR-FIECE.
Mrs. Hnngerford Dlnkca Another Sogcec
tlon for Home Decoration.
rwBiracir roz tux dispatcii.i
The cut represents a center piece of showy
design. It is almost twice as long as it is
broad, and is made of bolting cloth with an
edge of yellow satin ribbon two inches wide
put on flatly, with mitered corners. The
decoration, for which any distinct open pat
tern will be as suitable as the one given,
should be drawn upon blotting paper, and
laid under the blotting cloth, which is as
thin as lace.
The figures are then painted while the
cloth is held very close on the blotting
paper, which will absorb the fluid and pre
vent its running. When the colors are dry
an outline of embroidery stiches should be
added. In the center now being considered
the stems, tendrils and veins of the leaves
are worked with split floss silk in single
stitch. The flower and leaf edges are done
with long and short stitch, taken very far
apart. A lining of yellow satin will add to
the richness of the piece, or, it preferred, the
ribbon edge and the satin lining may be
pink, red or any other color.
Mrs. McC. Hungebford.
THE BEUSH AND THE CHISEL.
French Women Who II a to Risen to Em
inence Through Their Use.
IWRITTEX Ton TIIE DISrATCII.l
With the brush and the chisel French
women of to-day have distinguished them
selves not less than with the pen. Eosa
Bonheur is, of course, the best known, but
she has almost wholly withdrawn from art
circles, being nearly 70 years of age. Mme.
Leon Bertaux, founder and president of
the Woman's Art Society, is perhaps the
ablest 1 em ale artist after Eosa Bonheur.
Her art career presents the uncommon ex
ample of the wife out-stripping the husband
in his own profession. Mme. Bertaux is a
very short, thick set little lady, who is al
most as clever as an organizer as she is as
an artist.
There are but two female sculptors who
have a place in the Luxembourg galleries,
the famous state collection of living artists,
and these two women were admitted only
within a very few years. One of these
women is Mme. Leon Bertaux and the other
is Claude Vignon, who died last winter.
For Ihe J'oor, if You Please.
Group in bronze designed for a church at Cha-
lous-sur-Sione, by Madam Leon Bertaux.
Claude Yignon was one of the most re
markable women of recent years. Twelve
years ago she used to sit in the gallery of
the chamber of deputies at Versailles the
chamber had not returned to Paris at that
date and throw off newspaper letters for
The Independance Beige, the leading
journal of Brussels. Her second husband,
M. Maurice Bouvier, who afterward be.
came prime minister and is to-dav minister
of finance, retaining his place in the new
cabinet, was then as he is now a deputy,
and nscd often to send up from the floor to
WwMm
Bulls
PITTSBURG- DISPATCH,
hia wife in the gallery gome important bit
of news which was incorporated in the
letter then underway. Thisseries of letters
was one of the best sent out from Versailles
during the stormy period of the foundation
of the Third Republic.
But Claude Vignon was not simply a
journalist. She wrote novels and dramas
and poems and art criticisms, and was
above all an artist, a sculptor. She has
made busts of Thiers and her husband,
of La Fontaine and Canova; she is repre
sented at the Luxembourg by a fine statue
of a fisher boy pulling in his net; and she
has executed several important orders for
the state, and her work adorns the public
squares and edifices of Paris and other
French towns.
Mine. Synmour is another female sculptor
of talent whose work is seen at every salon.
When I called she was givinc the last
touches to an excellent bust of M. de Brazza,
the Franco-Italian African explorer and
rival of Stanley. She seemed deeply inter
ested in her work, and was high in praise of
the amiable qualities of her sitter. It is
just now announced that they are to be mar
ried. M. de Brazza shows his good taste,
for the young sculptor is not only an artist
of talent, but a woman of real beauty, her
jet black hair, well-molded features, smiling
lace and gentle manners rendering her a
most charming woman.
Theodore Stanton.
MRS. STANFORD'S CHABITI.
Beilde tho Great Minority, Sho Never For
get tho Poor.
Mrs. Leland Stanford, of California, has
been quoted as having the diamond mania.
She really cares little for her magnificent
gems, and makes giving her fad. So great
arc her charities that they deserve a higher
name than fad. They become a profession.
In Washington she gives from $100 to f 300
every Christmas to each charitable institu
tion, half supports any number of poor fami
lies and gives largely to church. The uni
versity founded by herself and husband in
memory of their dead child is now and will
be for years ber chiefest charily, but she has
not yet shown any sign of forgetting the lo
cal charities here.
WnAT WOMEN ARE DOING.
Some Who Flavo snccei In Bnslneis
and
Some Who Are Learning to Tnlk.
rKETAEED FO THE DISPATCH BT ELIZA
ABCHABD CONKEB.
Mrs. L. Mat Wheeler has become the
manager of the National Woman's News Asso
ciation of Chicago. That news association ought
to be a great success,
Mrs. T. Shephard, of Ventura, Ca!., Is a
successful flirist and seedsman. She has been
in the business seven years, and now has over
five acres In seeds, plants and bulbs.
Here is one of Lucy Larcom's sayings; "One
thing we aro at least beginning to understand,
which our ancestors had not learned, that it Is
far more needful lor theologians to become as
littlo children than for little children to become
theologians.'1
Among the youngest of the woman's clubs Is
the Pro He Nata, of Washington. Something
more than a year ago a class of ladles was
formed to learn parliamentary usage and ex
tempore speaking. At the close of the course
of instruction the members of the class deter
mined to continuo the meetings and use the
knowledge they had gaircd. Though the clnli
is no: yet a year old, all the members can stand
and express themselves neatly and forcefully
without even notes before them. At the last
meetiug the question discussed was: "How Far
Should State Education Go?" Mrs. Lucia E.
Blount Is President, and among the members
aro Mrs. Elliott Coues, the wife of ox-Senator
Joseph McDonald, of Indiana; Mrs. W. B.
mioses, miss uiara Barton, or the Ked Cross So
ciety, and Miss Esther De Puv. The name Pro
Re Nata was suggested by a Boston woman of
course. Ladles, what does Jt mean?
A movement to be noted Is that which led
to the organization of the Wo an's National
Liberal Union In Washington recently. The
union Itself is composed of persons of various
views on religion and divers opinions on tem
perance. Many of them are absolute teetota
lers. But all alike look with apprehension on
what they believe to be tho Increasing power
of the church party in affairs of state in this
conntry. As one notable evidence of It they
instance the increasing affiliation between wo
man suffrage associations and the Woman's
Christian Temperance Union. Another evi
denco Is the wording of a clause of the
Blair bill, which declares that non-sectariau
Christianity shall ba taught in all tho schools
of tho country. In the judgment of the
founders of tho Woman's Liberal Union this
provision would oppress the conscience of a
large number of botn Jows and agnostics who
are good citizens and entitled to consideration.
They further declare that the inserting of the
word "God" in the constitution wouldfbe sub
versive of the intentions of the founders of
this republic, who guaranteed perfect liberty
of conscience. The organization has been
started among women because those who
support the churches are women. Tho presi
dent of the Woman's National Liberal Union
is Matilda Joslyn Gage, of Fayetteville, H. Y.
TRICKb OF THE SMUGGLERS.
Ingenious Plans to Beit Undo Sam Oat of
Ills Custom Dues.
THE tricks of
the smuggler are
becoming more nu
merous and ingen
ious everyday, but
the customs service
is keeping pace
with the improve
ments, and smug
glint; is probably
no more extensive
I7ie Brandy Can. now than formerly.
Women use double corsets, false bosoms
and hollow bottom shoes. The inspectors
have more trouble with them than men.
Books are favorite things in which to smug
gle jewelry and dears. The center is cut
out of a volume of Shakespeare or Dickens,
or some other innocent looking book, and
the vacant space is then filled with the arti
cles intended to be smuggled.
Some years ago Italians were pouring
into the country by the thousands, and ejeh
one carried a can of olive oil. You could
shove a stick down through the neck of the
can and reach tho bottom, and to all appear
ances the can had
nothing but oil in
it. The New York
inspectors got ad
vices during that
summer that in
some way larce
quantities of the
finest brandies
were being smug- A box of cigars.
gled through the lines, and were told to
keep an eye opeu for anything that would
turnup. Suspicion finally fell on the cans.
"I cut a hole in the top of one" says an
inspector of that day "and, sure enough,
there was brandv, the finest and choicest I
ever tasted. I dumped out the contents and
looked inside. There wad a smaller can
filled with the oil.
One ot the inspectors recently asked a new
arrival to play a tune on his accurdeon. He
said he couldn't play. The inspector seized
the instrument, ripped off the end and
found it full of choice cigars.
ETIQUETTE OP THE LAWYERS.
A Very Sore Fpot in Amerlcnn fllnnnera
That Mux O'KclI Didn't Overlook.
Max O'Eell probed a very sore spot in
American manners, says the St Louis Re
public, when he ridiculed the conduct of the
average lawyer in court. Drop in any day
in one of those cheerJtss rooms where the
legal grist is ground by St. Louis' Circuit
Court judges and watch the attitude of the
legal luminaries when they address the
Court. Earnestness is written on their feat
ures, and their remarks to the learned
judges are couched in respectful language.
But, shade of Chesterfield! Is their elo
quence made moie impressive by ignoring
all the doemas of Delsarte? Is an argu
ment better clinched by plunging the bauds
deep in the trousers' pockets, or a sentence
more happily punctuated by vigorous ex
pectoration when a period is reached? This
is a great and democratic conntry, and
ample pockets and formidable cuspidors
must and shall be preserved; but surely tlift
most determined democrat can be dignified
and decent without forfeiting his claim to
independence.
fa I
SUNDAY, MARCH 28,
DQCTOE'S DELVINSS
Into the Mysteries of the Brain and
Its Relation to Body.
PARALYSIS FE0M MAKING PIES.
Is Drunkenness the Result of Nervous
Disease or the Cause?
ARTIFICIAL BRANDY IS THE BETTER.
tWMTTEN FOR THE DIKPATCn.1
"Whether, all things considered, I had
rather read medical reports or go to see "The
Gondoliers" it a question unsolved. It is
not by any manner of means a slur on the
gondoliers, but rather expresses emphatic
ally the interest which medical science may
hold for its sincere students. At least to
night tholgondoliers with their Venetian
splendor ot scene, costume and wit mav go
ty, while the snowfiakes fall, and one finds
good company in the delightful Medical
Annual.
It suggests the width of the world and
the advantages of an out-of-the-way life for
a thoroughly trained observer, to read the
profound articles from men living at tho
ends of the earth. Dr. Neve, of
Kashmir, India, writes on aneurism,
one of the most suggestive contributions
ever made to the study of that disease. Dr.
Levi, of the Virgin Islands, reports on ma
larial fevers, and we have reports from Prof.
Paelz, of Tokio, Japan; and Dr. Laninc, of
Usaka, and Dr. lkroonenburghs. ot Zam
bezi, South Africa, write an interesting re
port on malaria caused by bathing, which
people at Atlantic City and Asbury Park
and the interior lakes will be wise to heed.
Bright, ambitious intelligence, whoever you
are, fancying yourself shut away from the
world, remember it is not forbidden yon to
concentrate yourself on the phenomena near
est you, and make closer scrutiny and more
achievement in your branch of knowledge
than is possible to men divided between sci
ence and society, where one fritters half his
life away in civilities and neglects attain
ment because it is so ready at hand.
POISOK IN THE FI.OTJK.
Of interest to all who eat is the case of
poisoning from flour. In 1887 upward of a
hundred persons in a French town were
attacked by colic of great severity. The
water supply and various articles of food
were examined for the cause, when it was
found 60 patients bad eaten flour from a
particular mill, where the grain was car
ried to the millstones by an elevator,' with
buckets of tinplate, containing a good deal
of lead. The flour which piuied through
these buckets had not less than five ounces
of metal which had rubbed off into the
grain, and persons who ate this flour suf
fered severely, while those who used flour
from another elevator were not attacked.
Dr. Lindt relates a fatal case of a woman
employed only six months in a type foun
dry, who, in spite of warning, ate with un
washed hands, and died of amteima, colic
and convulsions. Lead poisoning also oc
curs in workmen who finish furs dyed with
preparations of lead. Women should de
mand furs prepared without poisonous dyes,
for their own safety as well as that of the
workers who handle them.
The report of Dr. E. C. Segnin on brain
and spinal diseases is marked by the brill
iance and ability of all his work, and con- ,
tains laets most 'interesting to general read
ers. Tne cure ot water on the brain in chil
dren by exposure of the child's head to the
direct rays of the sun every day for a month,
first from 15 minutes to half an hour, after
ward for 40 or 50 minutes is cited. In
paralysis by exhaustion the case is noted of
a girl of 14 who had left-sided paralysis
from excessive piano practice. A smith had
right-hand paralysis from overuse of his
hammer. I personally knew of a case where
the use of the hands was nearly lost by over
work in rolling out pie crust, the patient
making 60 pies daily for a household of
summer boarders. The testimony of the
early settlers of Michigan shows that a ma
larial paralysis was not uncommon, and aim
silar evidence comes from India. The Mich
igan folk called it "quinine settling in the
bones."
TREATMENT OP NEURALGIA.
As to neuralgia, from w hich probably as
many persons suffer all the agonies of gun
shot wounds as fail in battl every ten years,
and which is a settled modern scourge ot the
human race, Dr. Gray gives a very good
summarv of the latest methods of treat
ment. In 27 cases ot obstinate neuralgia,
chronic constipation was regarded as the
cause of the disease. Against this the treat
ment was principally directed, in shape of
moist, warm packs about the abdomen, mas
sage, rubbing with cold water and cnemata.
This was carried nut continuously from two
to six weeks, the diet being carefully regu
lated, and aided in some cases by galvanism,
massage and nerve stretching. Out of the
27 cases 15 were cured by these means and
nine improved. Stretching the nerve is
recommended for cure of chronic neuralgia
in place of the more acute opeiation of
severing the nerve, which last leaves a de
gree of paralysis and want of all sensation
in the nerve to treated. The hypodermic
use of antipyrin for neuralgia and sciatica
is also highly recommended. Doses of 15 to
25 crains injected at a time, only five grains
in one place, rendered the skin inseusible
for 15 to 24 hours and gave great relief.
The persistent headaches of children, ac
companied with sluggishness of mind, ner
vous irritability and nightmare are due to
overpressure and bad ventilation In school,
errors ol lefraction in the eyes and nasal
disease. Dr. Cocning wisely advises the
treatment ot chorea by ziving the patients
as much sleep ns possible, and in many cases
they can acquire the habit of sleeping 16
hours a day. If natural sleep cannot be ob
tained, by warm baths and quiet, bromides
should be used. The value of this simple
natural treatment in many forms of nervous
diseases is beyond question.
STATISTICS ON INSANITY.
The report of mental diseases has singular
interest. The census shows, according to
Dr. Andrews, that we have one insane out
of every 618 native born, while the loreign
population has one insane in every 250,
figures which should receive thoughtful con
sideration. The census shows its 1880 nearly
40,000 insane in asylums and hospitals, now
increased to upward of 60,000. As to re
straint necessary for the insane, Dr, Savage,
of the celebrated Bethlehem Hospit.il, in
London, the original Bedlam, says that "he
hopes no one will be listened to narrow
minded enough to say it is impossible
that restraint should ever le necessury,"
and declines himself to be bound
by any principle except of humanity and
humane treatment, which if it means any
thing means the use of every method likely
to restore health. Hypnotism, while prov
ing of value in certain cases, like the insan
ity of persecution and moral perversion,
wnere the patient develops incorrigible
viciousness, is still too mysterious to be de
pended upon, as to the recovery of the in
sane, statistics would show that insanity
over one year's duration is well nigh hope
les', but this is evidently due to the want of
inteliigent methods of cure, as recoveries
are reported from three to ten years dura
tion. Where there is no progressive mental
weakness, the outlook is not wholly hope
less, even after a long period. Even chronic
cases may recover and desponding vies ot
them are nusafe and unwise. Dr. Hack
Tuke, one of the first authorities on insan
ity, concludes that the influence of the in
sane upon the sane is exceptional, and as an
almost universal rulu those who are so af
fected are neurotic or somewhat feeble
minded. According to Dr. Salgo, 42 per
cent, of all cases of insanity occur between
the ages of 15 and 25, the age
of development. Faulty education,
fright, fear of punishment are classed
as important causes in this large number
of insane cases in the young. A pitiful
revelation is that of Dr. Kirn, of Freiburg,
who says that while one out of 3,000 of tho
general population may be said to have
some form ot mental disorder, in prisons
the ratio runs up to one in 300. Setting
aside the irregular life led by criminals,
their diseases, etc., many of them possess a
strong predisposition to insanity inborn or
acquired.
"Vt iSiTifrVtjtifi'nf-'l.Tt? i tlteiiMfewifilfarf?9MlT-- ttiaLlS-JiLtoiis.'-- jL. im..v --&- -Ab. Mtea. - JTrAntfiTfl'Yfof '-' .BafAwi ?nTiiWfrMfinrai? jc - i- - "cbt '
1890.;
It Is curious to observe that the average
weight of the brain coverings and fluids
is highest in the insane, while the weight of
the brain is lower.
BATTLING AGAINST BAD HABITS.
Strychnia has been brought into promi
nence as a remedy for alcoholism among
Russian physicians. It is recommended in
all forms of alcoholism, especially the
nervous varieties. The drug Methylal de
scribed in 1839 is brought to notice by vari
ous doctors, who praise it for the best seda
tive employed, as it does not depress the
heart or produce any unpleasant after-effects.
It is useful in delirium tremens, insomnia,
neuralgia, insanity, and is the best antidote
to strychnine, used subcutaneously. Aver
beck us that the effect of chloral on tho
brain is more pernicious than that of mor
phine. The cocaine habit takes iti place beside
the morphine habit, with svmptoms of mar
asmus, delusions and hallucinations of
frighttul appearances and email living
things creeping on the skin, together with
insomnia and loss of appetite. The symp
toms of cocaine poisoning are more obstinate
than those of morphine, and may last for
months after the cessation of the drug. The
experiments of Dr. Dudley show that car
bolic oxide is the most poisonous constituent
of cigar smoking, and more injury results
from cigarette smoking than cigars, be
cause more smoke is inhaled. A "wise old
Oriental, who smokes from GO to 70 cigarettes
a day, gives the advice, "Always use a cigar
ette holder, with a plue of cotton wool dip
ped in lemon juice, changed every time with
the cigarette. The alleged immunity of
smoKers irom infectious disease is not a
mere fancy, as it is shown the tobacco smoke
destroys microbes, or delays their develop
ment. Attention is called to the injury to
the infants of the poor in their crowded
apartments by tobacco smoke, the symptoms
being sunken eyes, listless ways, restless
nights, nausea and loss of appetite, which
disappear on removal ot the cause. Tea
poisoning is most common with the young
and anemic though it affects those with
good constitutions, toxic affects being pro
duced by aoout live cups a day. The
symptoms are nausea, dyspepsia, palpita
tion, nervous excitement, and even maniacal
attacks with pains of the heart radiating to
the arms and chest-
EFFECT OF ALCOHOLIC BEVEItAGES.
The opinions of doctors on alcoholic bev
erages have sufficient variety. Laborde at
tempts to show that the artificial bouquets
used to flavor wine are far more poisonous
than pure etbylic alcohol. The so-called
"essential oil of wine," of which there are a
French and German preparation, the latter
being most toxic, is made by the action of
nitrio acid on oil of cocoa, castor oil, butter
or other fatty matters. A small amount is
sufficient to give bouquet to a large quan
tity of wine, and a little of it injected into
the veinsof a dog will kill it in an hour.
Commercial alcohol also contains several
agents which are toxic in ahigh degree, pro
ducing true epileptio attacks. The essen
tial bouquets ot various liqueurs also have a
coavulsivant action, similar to absinthe and
vermouth. Another dangerous substance is
the essence de noyau, or almond essence,
from benzoic acid, so volatile that alarming
symptoms were experienced by Laborde and
his assistants in the laboratory, from its un
avoidable inhalation in their experiments,
vertigo, faintness, profuse perspiration, pal
pitation and trembling resulting.
Experiments were made upon dogs by giv
ing them alcohol made from wine, "from
corn and from beets. The intoxicating
effects were slight with alcohol of wine,
more with corn alcohol, and most with beet
alcohol. The translator of an article from
the Spanish states that "good mature
cognac, 20 years in cask, has really about
three times as much of the reputed madden
ing agents, and quite as much lusil oil as
that ordinary potato spirit which, colored
and flavored, is sold for genuine French
brandy. Good silent spirit in the form of
rectified spirit of wine, containing 84 per
cent of alcohol, is almost absolutely pure,
and with the necessary coloring and flavor
ing with cenanthic ether, makes about three
times the bulk of brandy, or with a little
turpentine and old oil of lemon four times
as much gin, and as far as purity is con
cerned is iinmeasureably better than the
best eau-de-vie that Bordeaux ever sends to
us. So that we have the anomaly that the
factitious article is really better and purer
than the genuine at one-fourth its cost.
INEBRIETY A NERVOUS DISEASE.
In articles written by six physicians here
and in England( great stress is laid on the
theory of inebriety being the 'result of a
diseased nervous system, rather than a
vicious habit, and the asylum treatment is
deemed Indispensable. Bemarkable claims
are made as to the curability of such cases
under asylum treatment. Dr. Forel, who
has become an earnest advocate of the total
abstinence movement, failing to induce the
patient to join a temperance society or sign
a pledge, has resort to hypnotic suggestion,
to bring about the desired result, and be
lieves that in hypnotism we have a valuable
aid in treatment of drink. In morphinism.
the cure by immediate cessation of the habit
is considered dangerous to life. The most
dangerous symptom on suddenly breaking off
morphia is collapse, in which the patient s
life is actually in danger. This can only be
controlled by promp't hypodermic injec
tions of the drug in quantities of three
tenths of a grain, to be repeated two or three
times if the symptoms of lowered pulse and
breathing, pallor and faintness do not im
prove. By the rapid method the morphine
is not discontinued abruptly, but reduced
as raoidly as possible, consistent with safety
to life, 6 to 12 days being occupied in a
gradual withdrawal ot the drug. The most
distressing symptoms last but a few days,
while gradual weaning prolongs them lor
weeks.
To think of the fight which good doctors
wage against the physical forces of evil in
their protean forms, their searchings be
tween soul and body, their bold attacks
upon the powers of death Itself and the
worse appetites and habits of men, is to
glorify the profession and the intellect of
man which work such results.
Shirley Dabe.
PATT1 AS SHE 0SCE WAS.
A Fbotoernph of the Fnmona Diva, Taken
Nnnrly Thirty Years Ago,
New York l'ress.
The following cut is from a faithful photo
gr ph of AdelinaPatti as she appeared at the
beginning of her marvelously successful oper
atic career. Girls of 16 dressed as children in
Palll at Sweet Sixteen.
those days, and the fair debutante was no
doubt proud of her pretty pantelettes. A
critic who distinctly remembers the profound
impression created by the diva's silverv
voice then says that it is now better than
ever. Certainly the Mme. Patti of to-day
would seem to have grown more beautiful
than she appears in this early portrait.
-u '
CLARA BELLE'S CHAT.
Mrs. Kendal's Ideas of Dress Not
Applicable to Gay Gotham.
CHANCES FOR WOBKIIiG WOMEN.
Story of a Titled Briton, a lankee Heiress
and a Porens Plaster.
A YOUTHFUL L0YEE AND HIS K1TAL
tcoarasFOSDExcE or the pisrATcii.J
E"W TOBK,
March 22. No
woman wearing in
the street a dress
decorated with
velvet, beadwork
or other elaborate
fixings is a real
lady. That is the
dictum of Mrs.
Kendal, the En
glish actress,
whom we are now
adulating. Boshl
Usage makes the
difference. Lon
don ideas don't
rule New York.
Speaking of our
un-European char
acteristics, in a
purely commercial
city, there is and
of a necessity can
be but little of
what the French
call vie artistiqua
et bohemmienne.
Co nsequently
there are very fevr salons where one can, as
in London and Paris, meet the leading au
thors, artists and actors of the city.
Such a salon calls for great wealth to sup
port it and make it brilliant. But Crcasus
in New York fights shy of Bohemia. The
mere idea of receiving Sara Bernhardt, Bose
Coghlan, Dixey or even Edwin Booth would
be shocking. These people are all very well
on the stage, but in one's drawing room
ob, neverl Colonel Ingersoll is the one ex-
The Duchess.
ception to the rule that no salon of a wealthy
person is open to Bohemia. Here one meets
Julia Marlowe, Fanny Davenport, Stuart
Kobson, John Swinton, Helen Dauvray
Marshall 'Wilder. Max O'Bell, Edgar Faw
cetr, Jeems Pipes, Mrs. Cady Stanton and
Moncure Conway.
TOILETS TOB A LITERAET BOIBEZ.
The two leading literary societies of the
metropolis are the Nineteenth Century
Club, founded by the late Courtland
Palmer, amateur Socialist, and the Goethe
Club. At both of these the paper of the
evening is followed by conversation, durin"
whirh bomllnn i anA nnflr.. .. . i9
Very elegant toilets may be seen at these re-
tcjjuuuj, uu.i, u some oi tne laay members
are both wealthy and intellectual, it may be
taken for granted that their costumes are
the proper thing for a literary soiree.
Atthff filPtllft Hit,! Intalw 1-J
y. ; w.M ... a juuv ap
peared in a tram dress ol black tulle, dotted
over with jet stars, rich jet trimming on the
bodice and draperies caught up with dia
mond ornament? Rtrallnur gltani tta.
hair was dressed a la Grecque, very low in
the neck, and held nn hv n r1ijmn1 AAi.
Her silk stockings, slippers and underskirts
were all black. The effect was superb, as
the lady has a dazzling white skin. It was
the success of the evening, and may be re
garded as extremely appropriate for a lit
erary soiree.
At one of these gatherings I saw George
Scovel, who is sometimes spoken of as the
"Chevalier Scovel." He is traveling around
the country with his wife the former Miss
Roosevelt two maids and some children.
New Yorkers remember when he married
one of the richest heiresses in town. He was
a 510-a-week clerk In a downtown office, and
he captivated the millionairess by reason of
his voice. She took him to Italy, and year
after year passed in his training as a tenor.
He is rather a poser, and his photographs
are prominently displayed, but he seems to
be a fond and devoted husband and a close
attendant of the wife, maids and children of
his party.
WOMAN'S CHANCES IN NEW TOBK.
"Is there any way for a woman to make a
living in New York?"
This is a question often written to me by
readers. It may be answered "Yes" and
"No." Unless a woman has special capa
bilities let her go to any other city rather
than come here. The metropolis Is con
stantly crying out for novelties, sensations
and something new. To meet this demand
requires an extremely alert and original
mind. To the unknown literary woman the
editor merely says, "Submit!" He says as
much to anybody. After becoming some-
whnt of an exnprt. and rtnKsihlv ;.. -
months or a year for a vacancy, a woman
may make a living here as a telegrapher,
typewriter or stenographer. If she has a
pretty face and n inning manners they will
help her out. A woman who is quick at
figures and writes a good hand may become
a cashier or clerk of some kind. Good
saleswomen arc always in demand, and so,
too, are those bright euongh to manage de
partments in the large drygoods establish
ments. A woman, unless remarkably endowed,
will find any artistic career difficult. At
the other extreme, some h omen have made
a living as book canvassers; but the calling
is repcllant, and year by year the large
u..ii.i: : . .1.. -A.t. r 4U: i
uuiiuiusiuuivaac .itwacTcjujr VI lueir (U1C3
against the admission of peddlers into the
offices. Certain printing offices employ
-women as typesetters. Skilful female phy
sicians lire generally able to build up a
practice here. There are two women prac
ticing ns dentists, nnd one graduate of the
Zurich University is lecturing on law. The
female brokers came to griet Ions ago. In
fact, a woman ativwhere in or about the
Stock and Produce Exchanges is a rarity.
The men don't want them there. Women
may gamble in stocks all they please, but It
must be done through a broker. The woman
hold enough to approach a ticker wonld soon
find herself the ceuter of a mild-mannered
mob.
ELASTIC SOCIAL STANDARDS.
Many women in New York act as busi
ness assistants to male relatives. Nothing
could be more wicked than to prevent a
capable woman from exercising her talent,
and one with genuine buslneis knack may
geta living as a dressmaker with greater
case than at any other calling. Of course,
she will have no "social standing," but let
that not worry her. Social standing in the
metropolis M a very elastic phrase. If she
proves herself capable, energetic and trust
J
yCzr '
Jilr
worthy, she will have friends enough, never
fear.
"With some capital to furnish a house
properly, a woman may, with tact as a man
ager, profitably rent furnished rooms: bat it
is precarious, for the fashion of leavin"
town in summer becomes more and more
prevalent, and thus her house is liable to
become a burden rather than a help. Under
favorable circumstances, it might be advis
able for a woman to come to New York and
keep boarders, but she should give the mat
ter the calmest consideration. Unless she
can command high prices that is, ?25 per
week for two persons she will find that her
house will afford a bare living, and that
only by doing hard work herself. Bare, in
deed, is it that a good servant will enter a
boardinghouse.AtIowrates,S7and58 weekly
per person, the calling is severe for a woman.
Such a hoase only catches the floating pop
ulation, which is as uncertain as the Croton
water itself never running when you want
it.
MUST IiAT ASIDE PEIDE.
Possibly there is a future for women in
this great city, but it will not dawn until
they are ready to lay aside that pride which
now prevents them entering the households
of the wealthy and making themselves use
ful to those who can afford to pay for it. A
good nursery governess can read'ilv find em
ployment. but she will be treated as a ser-
mfilj 8i $
Still She Wriggled and Writhed.
vant, and Americans don't lite that. A
female waiter in one ot the Nassau street
restaurants was dubbed the Duchess. She
performed the functions of her menial office
clad in black velvet. "When the bright, in
telligent young woman can bring herself to
cut her hair short, abolish frizzes, dress
plainly and keep her mind on her duties,
even when listening to a compliment from a
10-cent customer, she will always find it
possible to make n living in this large city.
But to many it would be a living death.
I have just heard a good story that is en
couraging, inasmuch ns it proves that some
pretty American girls are not so mad to
capture and marry Englishmen of title as
some foreigners would liaveU3 believe. TI.e
names of the characters in the comedy can
be comfortably lelt out. all that is necessary
L. to say being that the girl was a fine, healthy
example oi tne lanfcee beauty, with a lor
tune, and more charms of manner and per
son than any other gi-1 in her set. The man
was a personage of high rank, who dis
tinguished himself, after his rebuff at the
hands of our heroine, by capturing a wealthy
widow, who was more dazzled by his noble
station.
SHE 'WRITHED AND WRIGGLED.
It was at a grand function that hi)
grace's ardor reached the boiling pitch, and
he allowed himself to speak the precions
words that placed his proud name in the
hands of the young New Yok belle. The
two were alone, out among the plants in the
conservatory, and his crace was declaring,
with as much warmth as his dignity and
the temperature of the night would permit,
that he had decided he loved the voung;
ladv, and would she consider that she was
invited to become his wife. His grace, as
he made the soft avowal of his affection, ob
served that the object of his affection
squirmed nervously about as though labor
ing under a strong pressure of excitement.
He, feeling that she was overawed bv the
seriousness of the situation, endeavored'most
delicately to put her at her ease bv assuring
I her that he would wait for his answer, and
oegging ner to ininK ot mm only as a humble
suitor come to court her, all unworthy, even
though his rank was a great one. But the
girl continued to writhe about, finally set
tling in despair on a chair. His grace was
was on his knees in an instant, imploring
her pardon if he had been too hasty. As she
kept on weeping he pleaded to know what
was the matter and what he could do to re
lieve ber suffering.
"Well, you see," sobbed the girl, "I have
a porous plaster on my back, and it is almost
driving me frantic. I must get somewhere
and take it ofl or I shall go mad."
His grace gave up his suit in that direc
tion at once.
THE PLOT OP A XOTEB.
Ingenious are the youth of the metropolis.
There is a young but bright boy who won
the hand of a belle, bnt the engagement has
not been especially happy, for the reason
that she has not chosen to discourage tho
attentions of her old admirers to the extent
demanded by her accepted suitor. Among
the men who continued to implore her
tolerance alter she had pledged her hand,
was a wealthy German gentleman. ThU
ominous party was the particular eye-sore
to the future husband of the flirtatious
beauty, and many were the fierce objections
made to his persistent devotions, but to no
purpose. The German was at the house
of the fiancee quite as often as the youth
uiiuseii, auu uppcareu to oe treated wita
most unpardonable preference by every ona
in the family.
Finally the young man made up his mind
that a conspiracy was in progress to rob him
of his promised bride, and he set himself
about to put a quick stop to it. Hia
method of doing so was certainly heroic:
Conscious that the girl of his heart did not
know a word of German, he learned from a
fripnd a jipriM nf K mnm i l; .
phrases contained in that eloquent language
They were such as would make a fish
monger resentful, bnt all innocently
TnE OIBL LEARNED THEN
from her Iover.rith the understanding that
she should astonish her old German ad
mirer by speaking them off raoidly when ha
was not prepared. The wretched vouth
swore solemnly that the words were entirelT
elegant, and that the German would ba
much pleased by the sentiment they con
tained. J
The evening came when the three wera
aloue for a moment together. The yonwr
man gave his signal, and the girl proceeded
in her sweet voice to recite her lesson to the
German. As the terrible syllables dropped
from her lips he began to grow pale until he
was dead white. Then his blood took the
opposite course and his face became purple.
Glancing quicKly at the young man he
P1"" Goodness gracious, do you hear
that? What is the matter with her?"
The boy approached and whispered into
the ear of the German: 'Monomaniac.
Likely to break out at any time with just
such tearful words In her own languaee.
Can't cure her." h
With a look of fright and pity in his eye
the German hastily made his adieus and
left the house. His attentions to the nrettv
girl ended from that night.
Clara Belle.
Lleenso for Ibo Drinker,
Pittsburg's greatest need, says a corres
pondent, is a law mxkinir it compulsory for
everyone desirous of drinking liquor to
have a license therefor; said license to in no
case be issued to anyone of known bad char
acter, and to be revoked in every case
where the holder "over-estimated his capa
city. r