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Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, June 14, 1891, SECOND PART, Image 13

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn84024546/1891-06-14/ed-1/seq-13/

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FATE OF PARIS GIRLS.
If They nave Any Fun It Is Clandestine
TJccentri cities or the Dance An Ameri
can Man a Godsend In a French Ball
room. tcoRKrsroxDEKcx op Tm dispatch.3
Pakis, June 5. The life of the -world goes
gayly now in Paris, and trill continue so to
do until the ovei t
of Grand Prix,
toward the latter
end of June,after
whihch date
everyone ot so
cial consideration
goes out of town;
or is supposed to
go. Fetes, musi
cals, balls, char
itable entertain
ments, gala din
ners, etc., fill the
moments.
There are some
(to Americans)
curious features
abont French en-
A Velvet Crown.
tertainments and French entertaining. The
secondary place taken by young girls in
French social life is immediately apparent
The dowagers, always extremely decollete,
take up more room, are altogether more
prominent in the picture; and the young
married women are sure in advance of any
triumph that may be $oing. In society
that is in anr war official, at balls at the
Embiies (of which there have been several
the Spanish embassy ball, the ball at the
American Minister's, etc.,) there is practi
cally no place for young girls at all. If
thev make their way in ingenue s toilets,
under the -n ing of "mother or aunt, into
such aucust assemblage, they are generally
left verV much to themselves.
The Girls Do Have Some Fun.
Frenchmen who know say that in spite of
appearances, a French girl s Hie is passably
amusing x ii e
thing seems diffi
cult of realization.
Of course, the
amusement is all
of a clandestine
sort, but the little
French girl, bred
In a convent and
never allowed to
go into the street
alone, and yet con
triving to have
her small flirta
tions to keep her
tine, seems a fig
ure of Paris lite
that is frequent
albeit to us in
visible. In a ball
room, however, I
should not give
the palm to the
French girL I
think her grace
under these cir
cumstances over
rated. In the first
place 6he dances
atrociously. Or is
it the man who
dnnrps atrocious
ly" Surelv it 'jiAiyjyiv
would be impos- A late French Idea.
sible to find anything more grotesque than
the peculiar trot, with knees bent into
sharp angles and one very far apart from
the other, which constitutes the so-called
deux t-emns waltz of the Frenchmen. Many
an unfortunate American girl, rather proud
of her dancing, lias ttarted to waltz down
the room w ltb. her French partner and by
the time she has reached the other end of it
has come to the conclusion that she could
not dance at all.
It is not only a frightful hop, skip and
jump to look at, but it is a most disconcert
ing measure of the feet besides, a continu
ous series of rapid and stepless gyrations,
without backing or reversing, that strands a
partner breathless and dizzy, with a feeling
that the end of all things has come, after a
few moments. To look at these wild
Beauty's Pi-ovision for JJer Dog.
Parisian dances, to see them knock, without
thought of steering their lady, into each
others backs and arms and shoulders, gives
one a sensation of being in the main saloon
of a big ship in mid ocean with a heavy sea
rollmz. and the dancing men and women
might be platesand glasses and knives and
forks
American Men Dance the Rest.
In fact, the supremacy of the American
male as a cancer shines out with an all-
irriadiating splen
dor the more one
dances in Europe.
How comes it that
lie, the utilitarian
male par excel
lence, should so
excel in this light
est and most frivo
lous of pastimes?
After being
thumped into by
savagely revolving
couples, after be
ing carried away
in the giddy whirl
at a rate of ten
spinnings round
I per second, after
1 beinir hooped tin
and down with, be
hold one presented
himself the other
evening at a dance
who, though of for
eign blood, had
walked the pave
ment of Fifth ave
, nuc, and sat in
m - 111 .a
M lo, this man glided
on into one ot our
own. one and only
thrs-stCD waltzes.
Seaside Costume.
lone, tmooth strides, a find guiding arm,
heels occasionally on thi floor, not Forever
kicking up behlndl If this were a relief
let those say who have jigged in French
ball rooms. If one had never appreciated
one's countrymen from any other point of
Tiew, one was forced to burn incense before
them, in the spirit, from this one at least,
since their terpsichorean influence could be
thus strong even in an alien.
There is a good deal of vogue for what is
called the costume en tete at Paris balls
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9
this spring. The usual baU dress is wom,
three-cornered gendarme hat of black or
rrav. is donned. This coiffure requires a
certain amount of make-up in order to be
effective. But it adds a grace to these
irregular French faces which are only re
deemed by expression.
How the Frenchmen Dress.
As for the knee-breeches, silk stockinsrs
and red or blue coats, wom by the men, and
first introduced by
the Duke de Moony
some years ago they
have ceased to be an
eccentricity. They
may not be as fre-
3uent as the black
ress suit, but they
are quite as much a
matter of course.
They were intro
duced under the sup
position that they
would give a dis
tinctiop, an air( a
beauty to a society
man. But from this
side I should say that
in France they were
a failure. Instead of
being a more becom
ing costume it is a
trying one. Perhaps
a society man does
not look quite so If,
mueh like the butler h
and his underlines I
thus garbed, but it is
by no means uncom- III
mon that he should fU
have a resemblance xja.
to a eroom.
And then French
men frankly are not SUtek Chanting Lace.
handsome. They are little and black, and
shall one not say that in a red coat with
brass buttons they suggest, an infinitesimal
bit, Darwin in general, and the Italian
organ-grinder's nimble companion in par
ticular? In any case the Parisian swell is
usually a poorly-dressed creature. He has
tastes that are abnormal. He has next to
no neglige costume. For instance lie dotes
in all circumstances of life on the pot hat
He rides in it, skates in it, takes his morn
ing walk in it, lives in it I have not seen
the good, honest, democratic derby in Paris,
save when crowning the crest of little boys.
Dressing hy the Tear.
Of course,.there are English tailors who
have a following; but nature is stronger than
art Dress a
Frenchman out of
Begent street from
head to ioot as much
as you like. The
Boulevard des
Italiens will exude
at the pores some
where. There is a
London tailor who
ycarries on a system
f of commerce by
subscription for the
advantage of Paris
swells. Pay him
I $1,000 dollars per
r annum and you re-
ceive, expressed to
you in due . and :
proper form, a new
suit, and all neces
sary etceteras, once
eTery fortnight;
each suit made upon
vour measure, guar
With Belted Bodice.
anteed satisfactory in every respect, and to
be returned, as tne next installments come
along, upon easy terms. Half the sum in
sures one extremely correct costume every
month; and finally tnere are terms cheaper,
which enable a man to always be faultlessly
dressed without really ever owning his
clothes.
How refreshing would it be if some en
terprising mantua maker should establish a
correspondins system for the advantage of
women. But that will never be. Men have
always had the best of everything. Twice
Adam ate the apple and laid the blame on
Eve. A. G.
7ICTUBES FOB THE FAIR.
Hew Ideas In Dress and Ornamentation
That Slay Be Helpful.
The illustrations for the "Woman's "World
this morning are taken from some of the
clever exchanges, some coming from 27ie
Season, others from
The lady's Pictorial
and still others from
the daily press. The
girl's walking cos
tume presented here
with is distinguished
forits triple pelerine.
The -blouse of the
light gray dress is
made with a plain
white yoke and the
Bkirt set on this
trimmed with white
woolen braid of dif
ferent sizes, the front
breadth being turned
over on the left side
as seen. The pelerine
mav be made of tln
P same, or contrasting,
stun. The capes are
not lined, but pinked
A. Cirri WoOing at tjie e(jge get
Costume. . .
on to a small yoke,
the turndown collar being also sewn to this.
A round hat of coarse straw trimmed with
ribbon goes with it
The hat shown at the beginning of this
department is round, with a velvet crown.
The crown of a coarse fancy straw Kat is
taken out and the empty space filled in
with a round piece of double olive-green
velvet arranged in flutings three-quarters of
an inch deep tcf pioject over the brim. The
trimming is of a bouquet of lily of the val
ley and roses, with a bow of olive-colored
ribbon velvet fastened atthe back of the
turned-up brim. A demi-wreath of lilies
ofthe valley falls over the brim lined with
white crape.
A late French, idea is shown in a sketch
made in Paris i ecently. It is made entirely
in palest yellow silk crepe, except the long
bavette, which is in white tulle point d'es
prit The trimming is of jet, and the sash
in gray and black striped faille.
The seaside costume is made of whito
storm serge; the back is fan pleated, the
pieais meeting at
the top over a panel
of blue barred with
white; the tablier is
embroidered with !
anchors on the right ?!
side, bordered with He
blue Hercules Dram
nnd fflllft ftYPT ft. Tinr-
row blue panel on Abnott a -Bonnet
the left; the waist is full and has a girdle
oJL blue, and a bolero jacket; full sleeves
tea blue striped cuffs.
TJn addition to the evident pleasure taken
mm
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-
4
by many ladiesin bright colored dresses,
fashion is showing a liking for the always
stylish,:and tor fair dames, very becoming,
black toilettes. These are certainly made
with the modification of a slight dash of
color, just sufficient to relieve the general
darkness. Very delicate tones such as pink,
water blue, pale green, lilac, etc, are chiefly
taken for this purpose, but for those pre
ferring greater contrasts dark yellow, gold
and steel are, as 'well as plain and figured
silk and-velvet, also admissablc. Colored
trimmings are confined to the waist, and ap-
tig Ii I n B
iliffiltiiiif
ii i n
B3P
Seen in a French Drawing Boom.
pear either as revers, small waistcoat or
plastron, eta The more or less broad sash
is also made of colored silk. Theillustra
fon "black Chantil'y lace," shows a new
arrangement of the same worn with a black
Chantilly lace toilette. Of course, colored
trimmings look best on silk, Vtlvct, or lace
dresses for the latter a silk slip, though
not absolutely necessary is the nicest wear
still, very glossy black stuff will answer
the purpose. New black silks are made
with thick ribs, narrow strips, rays and zig
zags, etc There are also rich black silks
with pattern of colored flowers, rococo bows
and the like, while the good black Btuffs
have mostly very large patterns.
The dress with belted bodice is becoming
popular. The illustration shows a cash
mere dress with sleeves, plastron and high
collar of figured yellow silk. It has a gold
belt inserted through slashings and carries
braid to match on the collar and skirthem.
Fancy work in menus and table garnitures
generally is coming to be almost a fad. A
verse or in
scription now
goes with the
menu for im
portant occa
sions. Nap
kin rings,
made of paper
or cardboard,
,are also very
pretty, and
may be adorn
ed with paint
ed or embroid
ered flowers.
Cardboard KapJHn Ring. ctc" T )
artificial flowers are elaborate and beautiful.
The collections now on sale include wreaths,
sprays, large and small bunches and single
flowers all beautifully made and arranged.
The illustration of flowers here shown gives
a wreath of pretty pink flowers which only
need the addition of a little tulle, and may
be, ribbon strings, to form a perfect bonnet.
Sensational novelties are gigantic flowers
placed on large outspread stalks, and the
small glossv snakes, which raise their heads
with sparkling eyes, from amid a bunch of
marvelously beautiful roses.
Even pet dogs are allowed to partake of
a share of their owner's luxury, and have a
grand time of it in their way. The newest,
as regards their beds, is a gilt willow frame,
provided with a mattress and white plush
drapery. Yellow bows and pompon tringe
complete this article de luxe The collar
of two rows of gold and silver grelots is only
worn out of doors; when at home Fifi is
more comfortable in a similar one made of
red and yellow silk balls.
Fashionable walking shoes are now made
of a fancy kind of calfskin with the rough
side taken on the out
side, which gives it at a
short distance the ap
pearance of velvet, es
pecially in dark yellow
and ligut brown. It is
trimmed and galoshed
with natural-colored.
or patent leather. The Walling Shoe.
toes are still made narrow but not sharp
pointed, and the low heel has gained the
day entirely. Half-high boots arc pre
ferred to very high ones, and buttons or
laces to elastic springs.
In the arrangement of the furniture of a
modern Paris drawing room full liberty is
given to individual taste, we might almost
say caprice. The greatest attention is es
pecially bestowed on the tasteful arrange
ment of comer tables, which "are made in
various shapes. A very popular one has
the advantage of being round, and thus
without dangerous corners, such as too often
catch the folds or train of a passerby.
Fancies for the Fair.
TVb are told by those In authority that
"silk blouses aro more in vogue than ever."
This hit of lnlormation will please many a
busy woman.
Miss Wooirr, of Tf ilkcsbarrc, Pa., who Is
a pupil of the School of Industrial Art,
earned $300 in ten weeks from her carpet
designs. Other students have also met with
success m the same school.
Silk gloves matching gowns, hose and
shoes in color are the latest caprico for
evening as well as day wear, and are im
ported m all tho delicato tints. Black silk
cloves are stitched with a color for day
wear. Tnx handles of tablo knives now corre
spond with the china of tho service used.
Dresden is especially choice and beautiful
when used with the polished blades. This
is a very now tablo fad, and as pretty as it is
novel.
It is rather depressing to learn that even
one or two Hew York women of fashion
have adopted the recent affectation of the
smart Iondon girls, and aio appearing in
publio wearing monocles, or single eye
glasses. Fashion's latest proclamation says that
the insidious little frill creeping around the
hem of our skirts in tho spring -will pres
ently bo an invading aimyof flounces, cov
ering tho entire territory fiom hem to
waistband.
The proper way to arrange dark hair that'
Is, smooth hair is to wave it from the nape
or the nock upward and then twist It In the
center of the back in a small coil, fastened
close to the head. The bang, instead of be
ing curled, is waved and drawn backward,
one little love lock. Just In the center, being
Drought down low on the lorehead.
A well-ks own New Tork physician advises
a mother with young daughters to have
their trailing stieet gowns cleaned In the
open air Immediately on coming In from tho
street, "l'ou may not believe it," ho adds,
"hut in the filth, dust and dirt collected on
tho hosiery, shoes and undenv ear by the
trailing skirt there is germ life enough to
destroy your whole family."
The prettiest way for the fair girl graduate
to dreas'her hair if she does not wear tho
Oxford gown and its mortar-board cap is in
the Greek form with a Psycho coil or low
Grecian twist and soft waving fiont locks,
held down with a double fillet of gold or a
single narrow fillet of soft ribbon. A simple
girlish coiffure is in much better taste on
such an occasion than any other.
The cooking of eal is n supreme test of
the cook's skill. Tho meat must be well
done, yet it should not be devoid of its
natural Juices because it is thoroughly
cooked." The art of the perfeot meat cook
enables her to preserve the Juice of the
meat and yet serve it thoroughly done. In
order to accomplish this in broiling or roast
ing she exposes the surfaoe of the meat to
Intense heat, creating a crust In which the
Juices of the meat are sealed up. Before It
is burned the meat Is withdrawn from this
Intense heat and cooked slowly till done, but
not one moment longer.
. From Franklin Count.
I used Chamberlain's Colic, Cholera and
Diarrhea Remedy on two occasions for pain
in the stomach and received almost instant
relief. I believe it to be all you recommend
it "William C. Koojtiz,
Shady.Grove, Franklin county, Pi.
wsn
CsBSffletelS?
THEY WILL BE FEEE.
Servants Lose All Their Good Qual
ities Coming to America.
DECLARATION Oj? INDEPENDENCE
At the Bottom of the Trouble About Ber
vice in the Household.
THE QUESTION OF KATTONALirT
nnmra xo the DisrxTcs.l
Verily
I swear tls better to b lowly born,
And range with humble livers in content,
Than to be perked np4n glistering grief
And wear a golden sorrow.
- Henry Till.
It is impossible to do much with the art
of entertaining without servants, and where
shall we get them? In a country village,
not 200 miles from New York, I have seen
the well-to-do citizens going to a little res
taurant on the main street, actually because
they could not get women to stay in their
houses as servants. They are willing to pay
hieh waees. thev are eenerous livers, but
such a" thing as domestic service is out of
the question. If any lady comes from tne
city bringing two or three maids, they are
of far more interest than their mistress, and
are besieged, waited upon, intrigued with
to come and serve the village lady. "What
is the reason? The American farmer's
daughter will not.go out to service, will not
be called a servant, will not work in
another person's house as she will in her
own.a
Such a story repeated al over the land is
the story of American service. "We have,
however, every day a ship arriving in New
York harbor which pours out on our shores
the poor of all nations. The men seem to
take readily enough to any sort of work.
Italians shovel snow and work on railroads,
but their wives and daughters make poor
domestic servants.
A French Man Servant Worth Having.
The best that we can get are the Irish,
who have been long in the country. Then
come the Germans, who are now beginning
to outnumber the Irish. The French, the
Swedes, the Danes, the Norwegians, all
come in shoals. Of all of these the French
are by far the best Of course as cooks
they are unrivaled; as butler, waiter, foot
man, a well-trained French servant, man, is
the very best He is neat, economical and
respectful. He knows Eis value and he is
very expensive But if you can afford him
take him and keep him.
The French . maids are admirable as
seamstresses, and in all the best and highest
walks of domestic service; but they are
difficult as to the other servants, they make
trouble about their food; they do not tell
the truth. As nurses, they are often very
good, but for that drawback they do not
instill a love of the truth into their charges.
An Irish nurse is the best and most tender,
the most to be relied on. Children love
Irish servants; it is the best compliment we
can pay them. They are not good cooks as a
rule, and they are wanting in head, manage
ment and neatness, but they are willing and
a good mistress can make of them almost
anything she desires.
Bomance Buns in the Swedish Blood.
The Germans surpass them very much in
thrift and in concentration, but the Ger
mans are stolid and very far from being as
gentle and willing as the Irish. If a house
keeper gets a number of German servants
in training, and thinks them perfect, she
need not be astonished if some fine morn
ing she rises and finds them gone off to
parts unknown. The Swedes are more re
liable, up to a certain point. They are
never stupid, they are rather fantastio and
full of eccentricity. They are also full of
poetry and always full of sublime longings.
The Swedish language is made up of elo
quence and poetry as soft as Italian; it has
also something of the flow and the magnifi
cence of the Spanish. It is rich in pic-
turesques and - brilliant metaphor and
richer in its expressions of gentleness,
politeness and courtesy. They have a great
talent for arguing with gentleness and
courtesy and of protesting with politeness,
and they learn our language with singular
ease f
A Dinner Party for Five Dollars. ,
I once had a Swedish maid argue me out
of my desire to have the dining room swept
in better language than I could use myself.
They are excellent cooks. A Swedish
woman used to come to my house.to cook for
dinner parties, and she was equal to any
French chef. Her price was $5: she would
do all my marketing for me, and serve the
dinner most perfectly that is, rendej it up
to the men waiters. I rarely had any fault
to find. If I liad, it was I who was in tho
wrong. She came often to instruct my Irish
cook and made a good cook of her, but had
I attempted any further intercourse I feel
that it would be I who should leave the
house and not my excellent cook. They
have every qualification for service except
ing this, they will not obey; they are cap
tains.; Norwegians Are Best of All.
The Norwegians are very different TVe
must again remember that they are at home
so poor, so frugal, so "religious, so capable
of all sacrifice they will work patiently for
seven years in order to go home to Norway
again, to that poetical land, whose beauty
is so unsrjcakable. These cirls 'who come
from the herds, who have spent the summer
on the plains in a small hut and alone, mak
ing butter and cheese, and strong, hand
some, fresh creatures, their voices as sweet
as lutes and so obedient and good, thinking
of father and mother and home. "Would
there more of them! If they were a little
less awkward in an American house they
would be perfect
Could I have my choice for servants
about a country house they should be Nor
wegians. In a city house, French people.
In Chicago the ladies speak highly of the
German servants, if they do not happen to
be Nihilists, which is a dreadful possibility.
At the South they still have the negro.
most excellent when good, most objectiona
ble when bad. Certainly freedom has not
improved them as to manners, and a colored
coachman in "Washington can be far more
disagreeable than an Irishman or a French
cabby during the exposition, which is say
ing a great deal.
The excellence, the superiority, the'beau
tiful manners of English servants at home
has induced many ladies to bring over par
lor maids, nurses, cooks, with, however, but
small success. I need but copy the follow
ing, from the IiondonXueen, to show how
different is the way of speaking of a servant
and to a servant in Bondon from New York:
TVhat Is Expected of Servants. , . "
The servants should rise at 6 30, and the
cook a little earlier; she then .lights kitchen
fire, opens the house, sweeps hall, clean
steps, propares upstairs and downstairs
breakfast. Meantime the house parlor maid
does the dining room, takes up hot water to
bed rooms, lays the table and so forth,while
the housemaid dusts the day nursery and
takes up the children's breakfast. Suppos
ing the family breakfast is not wanted be
foio 8,30, that meal should be taken in both
kitchen and nursery before 8 o'clock. As
soon as this is over the cook must tidy her
kitchen, look over her stores, contents of
fmntry, etc., and be ready by 9 30 to take
ler ordera for the day. She will answer tho
kitchen bell at all times, and perhaps
the front door in the morning, and will
be answerable besides for ordinary kitchen
Work, for the hall, kitchen stairs, all the
basement and according to arrangement pos
sibly the dining room. She must have fixed
days for doing the above work, cleaning tins,
etc Tho cook also dears away the break
fast; as soon as the housemaid has taken up
the family breakfast, she (tho housemaid)
must go and begin tho bedrooms where the
sccopd scullery maid ,may help her as soon
as she has done helpingthe coos. The house
parlor maid will he responsible for the
drawing room and sitting room and all the
bedrooms; also stairs and landing, having
regular days for turning out one of each
weekly, being helped by the second scullery
maid. She would be dressed In time for
lunob, wait on It and clear away. She will
answer the front door hi the afternoon, take
up 5 o'clock tea, lay the table and wait at j
dinner. The scullery maid must clear
the kitchen meals and help in all
the washing up; take up nursery teat
neip the cook prepare tho late dinner;
carry up the dishes for late dinner, cleat and
wash up kitchen supper. The nurse has her
dinner in the kitchen. Servants' meals
should he breakfast Before the family, din
ner directly after upstairs lunch, tea at 5,
supper at 9. They should go to bed regu
larly at 10 o'clock. Now as to their fare. For
hreakfast a littlo bacon or an egg or somo
smoked fish: for dinner meat, vegetables,
potatoes and pudding. If a Joint has been
set up for lunch it fi usual for It to be sent
down to the servants' table. Allow IK pints
of beer to each servant who asks for it or one
bottle. Tea, butter and sugar are given out
to them. The weekly bills for the servants
shall be abont $2 50.
English Servants Lose Their Manners Here.
And so on. The neatness of all this care
ful housekeeping would be delightful if it
could'be carried out with us or if the serv
ant would accept it But imagine a New
York mistress achieving it ! The independ
ent voter would revolt. Neither he nor his
wife would ever accept it English sorvants
lose all their good manners when they come
over here and cannot appear at all as they
do in London. American servants are al
ways expected to eat what goes down from
the master's table, and there is no such
thing as making one servant wait upon an
other. There are households in" America where
many servants are kept in order by a clever
mistress, but it is rarely an order which lasts
for long. It is a vexed question, and the
freedom with which we take a servant, with
out much of a character, must explain a
great deal of it. Foreign servants nndout
soon their legal rights and their importance
"Where labor is scarce it is not so easy to get
a good footman, parlor maid or cook, the
great variety and antipathy of race comes in.
The Irishman will not work on a railroad
with the Italians, and we all know the his
tory ofthe "heathen Chinee."
Mr. "Winans, in Scotland, hires a place
which reaches from the North Sea to the
Atlantic; he spends $200,000 a year on it.
He has, perhaps, 300 servants, every one of
them perfect Imagine his having such a
Elace here I How. many good servants could
e find, how long would they stay? How
long -does a French chef at 510,000 a year
stay? Only one year. He prefers to re
turn to France
Establishing Their Independence.
It Is, however, possible, for a lady to get
good servants and to keep them (for awhile)
if she has great executive ability, if she
has a natural leadership; but the whole
question is one which has not yet been at
all mastered. The great lack of respect in
the manneis of servants in hotels is especi
ally noticeable after returning from Eu
rope A woman, a sort of care taker, on a
third story floor, will sing while alady is
talking to her, not because she wishes to
sing at all, but to establish her independ
ence. In Europe she would "say: "Yes,
my lady," or "No, my lady," when spoken
to. It is to be feared that the declaration
of independence is between us and good
service. "We must be content if we find
one or two amiable Irish or old negroes,
who will serve us because of the love they
bear us, and for our children's sake, whom
they love as if they were their very own.
This is, however, but taking the seamy
side, and the humbler side. Many opulent
people in America employ 30 servants and
their house goes on, with much of the Eu
ropean elegance. It is not unusual in a fine
New York house to find a butler and four
men in the dining room, a chef and assist
ants in the kitchen, a head groom and his
men in the stables, a coachman, who is a
very important functionary, and three
women in the nursery beside the nursery
governess, who acts as amanuensis of the
lady; the laiy's maid, whose sole duty is to
wait on her lady andperhaps the younglady;
a parlor maid or two, and two chambermaids,
a laundress and her assistants. Of course,
the men in such a vast establishment do not
sleep in the house, with perhaps one or two
exceptions; the valet of the gentleman and
the head footman may be kept at home, as
needed in the night for errands, etc But
our American houses ore not built to accom
modate so many.
The Men Must Have Help.
In a household where one man alone ii
kept, and where he is expected to open the
front door and to do all 'the duties of the
dining room, he must have an assistant in
tho pantry. Tho cook, ifea-woman, gener-'
ally demands and needs one: "if a man, he
demands two, for a chef will not do any of
the menial work of cookery. He is a
pampered menial.
The housekeeper should hire the servants
and be responsible for them. She orders
the dinners if the lady chooses, she gives
out the stores, she watches over the house
linen and gives it out, attends to the mend
ing and replenishing of it, and every day
visits all the bedrooms to see that the cham
bermaids have done their duty, that writing
materials are in every room, that all ia
comfortably arranged for guests and for the
family.
She is expected to see that her employers
are not cheated and this makes her unpopu
lar. A bad housekeeper is worse than none,
as of course her powers of stealing are end
less. The butler is answerable for the
silver and wine. He must be absolute over
the footman. It is he who directslhe carv
ing and passing of dishes, and then stands
behind the chair of his mistress." Many
gentlemen in America send their butlers t,o
market and leave to them the arrangement
of .he table. If a woman cook is kept this
is generally done, but in England a butler
would not considerthis his work. All the
men servants must be clean shaven, none
are permitted to wear mustaches; that is
the privilege of the gentleman.
Nine Meals CookedXvery Day.
Nine meals a day are cooked in an opulent
house at Newport A breakfast for the
servants, another lor the children and gov
erness, another for the master and his guests
XllUKe MllCC. -LUG WiUUlKU O U111UC1, bUB
servants' dinner, the family luncheon, an
other three. The grand dinner at 7:30, the
children's tea, the servants' supper make
another three.
Those people are the happiest who can
get on with three or four servants, and very
many families live well and elegantly with
this number. To mark the difference in the
feeling as between those who employ and
those who serve, one little anecdote may
apply. At a watering place in Europe I
once met an English iamily of the middle
class. The lady said to her housemaid:
"Bromlon, your master wishes you to be in
at 9 o'clock this evening."
Bromlon said: "Yes, ray lady."
An American lady stood near with her
maid, who flushed deeply.
"What is the matter, Jane?" asked the
lady.
' i never could stand haying anyone
called my master," said the American.
M. E. "W. Shebwood. .
LATEST HOTEL IDEA.
There Most Be a Second Desk In the Office
as in Europe.
NewTorkSnn.3
A second desk or office is now to be found
in the newest of the big hotels in town.
The main desk is still presided over by the
chief clerk, who receives incoming visitors
and assigns their rooms to them. The
cashier is still installed beside the clerk.
At the new desk the clerk in charge takes
in and gives out the room keys, receives all
bundles, cards and messages for the people
above stairs, keeps the railway guides, and
stands the brunj of all the cross-questioning
and bother by the persons who are
always "wanting to know, you knpw."
All this is copying the European methods.
In the modern hotels in"London,you reg
ister at one desk, get your key at another,
pay your bill at a third, and when you want
your luggage moved about you find a fourth
fellow somewhere else.
Colleges Do Not Stake Skeptics. '
After an elaborate investigation, Presi
dent Thwing, of Adelbert College, lays a
negative answer must be returned to the
question, "Do the colleges make skeptics?"
The most competent judges, the students
themselves, declare the colleges do not make
skeptics. Such a conclusion, Irom testimony,
is the conclusion also of reason.
FmornruBE upholstered and repaired.
Hatjgh &KEENA1T.33 "Water street
BU
TROTS TO GET LEAN.
Celia Logan Eelate3 Her Experiences
"With Obesity Eemedies. .
GAINED FIFTEEN POUNDS ON ONE.
Effects of 350 Pills Taken on Queen Isa
bella's Recommendation.
A PAT DOCTOR "WHO GOT TOO TSm
tWMTTEf FOB THB DISPATCH.!
The first thing insisted .upon in every
"obesity cure" within my knowledge is ab
stinence from certain articles of fat-forming
food. Anti-fat doctors advertise that no
dieting is required, but I have'never known
any so-called cure without its accompanying
diet card, everyone of which I have pre
served and given to the reader as I received
it My experience goes to show that corpu
lence can only be permanently removed by
a thorough change of life and diet, assisted
by continuous exercise.
Thers is a vast difference or opinion
among physicians as to the manner in
which this die'tetic regimen should be con
ducted. The worst of all methods is the
starvation treatment, because setting aside
the deprivation and suffering while we
starve we lose albumen, which is the very
principle of liferthe principal element of
the blood, and muscles at the same time that
we lose fat This brings abont a poverty of
blood anaimia which may be carried so
far as to seriously injure the health and
even endanger life. That is the case with
the old-time Banting corpulence cure. More
than any btherI know it induces antemia,
which requires an immediate compensation,
and consequently a speedy restitution ofthe
adiposity for th"e removal of which starva
tion was inaugurated. Thus by these starv
ation processes the patient loses his fat, but
regains it as soon as he stops fasting.
The System of Ehiteln.
Any treatment which is so hard that it
can be followed only a short time is tobe
rejected as worthless. The great question
is, what nourishment will best sustain life
and reduce fat at the same time? A German
physician, Ebstein by name, thought he had
colvedthis difficulty, and a few yearsago
gave his views to the world in a little
pamphlet entitle! "Corpulence and Its
Treatment" The following regimen is that
by which he claimed to have removed the
superfluous fat of his patients.
Breakfast One large enp of black tea,
without milk and sugar; about two ounces
of white or brown hread and plenty of but
ter. Time In summer, 6.30; in winter, 720
A. ST.
Dinner (about 2 p. m.) Soup (with bone
marrow occasionally), lour to six ounces of
meat, boiled or roasted, with fat gravy,
especially fat meat; plenty of vegetables,
cabbage, and, most of all, legumes (peas,
beans). Beets, carrots and turnips wore on
account of the sugar they contain almost
totally excluded, potatoes entirely. After
dinner a little fresh fruit, occasionally some
salad or stewed fruit, but without sugar.
To this was added two or three glasses of
light white wine. Soon after dinner a large
cup of black tea, again without sugar or
milk.
Supper (between 7 and 8 r. h.) In winter
regularly and in summer occasionally, an
other large cup of tea without any sugar or
milk. One egg, or some small plate of fat
meat, or both; or some ham with its fat,
sausage, smoked or fresh flsli, two ounces of
white bread, with plenty of butter, and oc
casionally a little cheese and a little fresh
fruit
Permitted Plenty of Butter.
i The "plenty of butter" clause struck the
fancy of adipose America. Plenty, mind
you; not a little, but plenty all you wanted,
in snort This was on the theory that fat
does not make fat Hitherto the popular
belief was that fat does make fat Further
more,' the Ebsteinites were allowed all sorts
"of delicious fat things, like salmon, liver
pate, sauces, soups and gravy. Only a few
sweet things, like sugar, were forbidden.
JLured by the light of "plenty of butter," I
"ceased'to repine because there" was too much
of me exclaiming, with Ealstaff: "A plague
of sighing and grief 1 It blows a man up
like a bladder."
I weighed, and then Ebsteined fora week,
and weighed again. I had gained exactly
five pounds. Plenty of butter and five
pounds of grease. 2ext week the same,
and the next Plenty of butter and 15
pounds more fat on my overburdened bones.
In my righteous wrath and just indignation
I put Herr Ebstein's obesity book into the
fire. Plenty of butter, indeed! "Why, I
was so disgusted that I did not for a long
time after endeavor to interfere with my
fat, but just let it have its own sweet will
with me. I swore off obesity cures until
the next time.
The System That Cored Bismarck.
That time came when Dr. J. "W. Gibbs, of
New York, introduced into his country the
celebrated Schwenninger cure for corpu
lence. It will be remembered that Schwen
inger was an obcure doctor practicing in
Berlin, where he sprang into fame by re
ducing Prince Bismarck from 240 pounds
down to 186 pounds. His secret was the
utmost possible abstinence from all fluids.
Drinking anything was forbidden for one
hour previous to and during meals, and for
one hour afterward. To one always accus
tomed to drink coffee, ted or water at meals
the Schwenninger prohibition is torture un
til it becomes a habit I learned that which
I have stated in a former article as a physi
ological fact, that hunger is more easily
borne than thirst In this treatment, as in
all others, a certain secret
medicine ,wasJ,
given.
Dr. Gibbs refused to administer this in
my case, considering it too powerful for a
weakened constitution, as it was so potent
that only two drops of it were taken at a
time. Some restrictions as to eating were
imposed upon Schwenninger patients. I ap
pend the dietary card. It will be observed
that "light, bitter beer" is allowed:
Mat Eat Lean mutton and beef, veal,
lamb, tongue, sweetbread, soup3 (not thick
ened), beef tea and broths, poultry, game,
eggs, fish, cheese, bread (In moderation),
greens, spinach, water cress, mustard and
cress, lettuce, asparagus, celery, radishes,
French beans, green peas, Brussels sprouts,
cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, sea kaje,
onions, jollies (not sweetened), fresh fruis
(in moderation, and not without sugar and
creamhpickles.
May Not Eat Fat bacon and ham, fat of
meat, butter, creams, sugar, potatoes, pars-
nips, carrots, beetroot, rice, arrow root, sago,
tapioca, maccaroni,vermicelli,semollna, cus
tard, pastry and pudding of all kinds, sweet
cakes, nuts of all kinds.
Mat Dbisk Tea. coffee, cocoa (from nibs,
with milk, but without sugar or cream), dry
wines of all kinds (in moderation), brandy,
whisky, gin (in moderation, without sugar),
light bitter beer, soda, seltzer, Apollinaris
Mat Not Dbcjk Milk (except sparingly),
cream, porter or stout, sweet ales, sweet
wines. As a rule, alcoholic drinks should be
taken only very sparingly, and never with
out food.
The OrlginatorTook Too Much Care.
I received no benefit from this famous
treatment, but it is only fair to Dr. Gibbs
to say that-I did not pursue it far enough to
determine whether or not I might receive
benefit in the long run. I left New York
when I had been but a short time under the
Schwenninger treatment and did not return
for a year.
There is an odd little circumstance con
nected with Dr. Schwenninger. It is that
while reducing the superfluous flesh of oth
er people he has lost his own and has be
come almost a living skeleton. He has
been obliged to give up his practice, and at
last accounts was wandering over the, world
In search of adipose tissue. Truly this mat
ter of fat reminds me of the old conundrum
as to why matrimony is like a city in a state
of siege, the answer to which is: Because
thoso who are put of it want to get in, and
those who are in want to get out So those
who are thin want to get fat, and those who
are fat want to get thin.
TJnon my return to New Tork of course Ii
sauntered up dear old Broadway. My eye'
was caught by the display in the windows!
of a certain- drug store. The display con-1
listed of a photograph of an enormously (
fat man u he appeared 'before taking thej
Marienbad pill for the reduction of fat; an
other photograph showed him quite emaci
ated after taking it More convincing
still were the photographs of ex-Queen Isa
bella, representing ner as almost slender
after Marienbad ing. Inquiry brought forth
a small pamphlet compiled by the official
physician oi tbe Marienbad Springs, from
the sulphated-sodic salts of which the pill
is composed." .
K v7h Good for the Qneen.
The doctor claims that the ex-Queen of
Spain was -under his care in Paris tor eight
weeks, and during that time lost 70 pounds
in weight and decreased 7 inches around
the waist. This alleged reduction of a well
known immensely stout woman inspiredme
with hope and the desire to try again just
once more to rid myself of the corpulence
which was jiow not only burdensome to
carry, but seriously affecting my health.
Upon the druggist's, assurance that the
pills wcrq harmless I bought seven boxes of
them, xirice f 2 25 a box, each containing 60
pills. Success was guaranteed, provided
the directions were followed and the diet
adhered to. I adhered to everything. Here
is the Marienbad reduction cure:
Breakfast One cup tea or coffee, with
sugar and milky bread, two or three slices,
with a little butter; one egg (yelk only) or
one and a half ounces of meat
Dinner Meat or fisb, seven ounces; plainly
cooked vegetables, as much as desired
(spinach, lettuce, string beans, beet tops,
cabbage, tomatoes, etc.); farinaceous dishes,
not to excoed three ounces (potatoes, rice,
maccaroni, etc.); salad, plainly dressed, one
ounce: cooked fruits, with verrylittla sugar,
as desired; water sparingly. j
Supper or Lunch Yelks of two eggs or five
ounces lean meat: salad (radishes, pfckles,
etc.), small quantity; bread, one slice! fruit
(preferably cooked), four ounces; tett'or cof
fee, one cup. .'"
No beer, ale, cider, champagne; sweet
wines or spirits; light acid wines fclaret,
hock, etc.) in great moderation; no milk, ex
cept in tea or coffee. ' h
A Long Fight for a Pound. t
The result of my first week's dosing was
hardly so marked as in that of Isabella's
case, as I lost but one ounce. The second
week I lost one pound and began to take
heart of grace. The third week that pound
came back, and for the balance of the "time
I was Maricnbading, that pound and the
pill kept playing battledore and shuttle
cock; Back it came and went, until at last
the pound, bringing with it to emphasize
its triumph, as it were three more pounds.
I had taken 350 Marienbad rednctiotfpills
and had gained three pounds! ".Now," I
said to myself, "when next lam lured into
imitating any ex-queen, fat or lean, I will
buy an article of home manufacture." And
with that I nailed my colors to the mast
They bore this strange device: ".Eternal
starvation is the only price of leanness."
CeliaXogast.
FOR THE FRUIT SEASON.
EUiee Serena's "Way ot Preparing Apples,
Berries, Et&, for Immediate Use
Beclpos - for Frugal Dishes and for
Luxuries Hints for the Home.
wbittbx fob the dispatch.
Compotes is the name given a preparation
of fruit for immediate use, and popular as
dessert Compotes are usually the accom
paniment for pies and puddings, although
they are often served alone with pastry
crust In making them less sugar is used
and less time is required than would be
necessary for -preserves. They should not
therefore be .made in large quantities, nor
should they be kept on hand any time,
scarcely in any event longer than three days
the storage to be cool.
Often and in connection with the word
compote a kindred word, compotier, is used.
Both are Erench words, the latter meaning
simply the dish in which the former is
served. In making compotes of berries
especially of the more delicate sort, such as
raspberries and strawberries very little
boiling is required. Boiling up once is suf
ficient. Now that the fruit season is here
these delicate luxuries will be a welcomo
change to the housewife.
Apple Compote.
Peel, core and quarter six large apples,
trimming, each quarter so as to get them all
of a size.- Prop them as they are done into
cold water with the juice of a lemon
squeezed into it to prevent their turning
brown. Havo ready a syrup made with one
pound of sugar and one quart of boiling
water. Put the apples Into this with the
thin rind of a lemon and two or three cloves.
As soon as they are cooked (be careful not to
break them) take them out, place on com
potier, pour syrup over them and garnish
with sliced citron.
Lettuce as a Vegetable.
The French cooks, noted for their Inge
nuity, do not always send lettneo to tbe
table in salad form. It is frequently pre
sented as a vcgetable,and from their method
hero subjoined I dbubt not that a very ap
petizing dish would follow tho trial of ft.
The hearts of cabbage lettuces are selected,
thoroughly washed and then blanched in
boiling, salted water for 15 minutes the
stewpan to be uncovered during this process
sotliat the lettuce may retain its color.
After blanching it Is turned into a sieve,
dashed with cold water and drained. Some
rich cream is no.w poured into a baking
disb, some small lumps of butter added, then
the lettuce hearts and more cream, sea
soned "topped off" with a thin layer of
cracker crumbs. The timo reqnlred for bak
ing this delectable dish is an hour and a
quarter the oven to be slow. Servo In bak
ing dish.
An Italian Cream.
This ercam has been much admired, hut to
the novice who is unaccustomed to making
fine desserts (which always require skill
and -patience) it may seem a littlo trouble
some in preparation. Take a pint of thick,
sweet cream and half a pint of mllk,to
gills of Madeira wine, a dessertspoonful of
lose water and five ounces of sugar. Havo
readyanounceandahalf of gelatine, soaked
inn- little cold -n ater, dissolved in boiling
Jaterand strained. Begin by mixing the
and heat very thoroughly. Stir in the gela
cream and milk.. Add tne sugar ana wmo,
tine last, mom, ana set to naraen.
Prepared Pears.
When pears aro so plentiful that they can
not be eaten or profitably disposed of, it is
an oxcollent plan to cut them in thick slices,
stew them, and then in an open oven dry
them thoroughly. "It may take two days,"
said tbe old honsekceper who gave the
recipe, "but they come out all honeyed over
with their own sweetness, and fig.-likein
their substance and consistency, at once
suggesting both figs and raisins." They are
excellent eating, and, it is said, will 'keep a
year or two. v '
AppleTarts or Pnddlnir. '-
' Line a pudding di9h with slices of but
tered toast, cover with apple sauce Sweet
ened and flavored; continue the layers of
toast and apples, ending with the sauce.
Bake 20 minutes.
Cheese Dish.
One pint of crumbled cheese, one pint of
bread crumbs, half a grated nutmeg, one
teaspoonful of salt and two beaten eggs.
Prsge Flavoring Extract Co.
The largest and only exclusive
Flavoring Extract Manufactory
in the World.
The purity of Dr. Price's Deli
cious Flavoring Extracts is an
established fact
. They contain no poisonous oils
or ethers. "
They are of the highest strength
attainable.
- Lemon, Vanilla, Orange, Necta
rine, etc., flavor as naturally and
deliriously as the fresh fruit" from
which they are made.
NEW ADVEKTISEHJENTS. W
w
WE TAKE-STOCK JULY 1.
GREAT
REDUCTION!
During June.
Wm. Tnnkle & Co.
C-tX "Wood St.
mySl-an
Add a large teaspoonful of butter to a pint
of boiling milk, and pour over tho ingre
dients. Cover, and set hack on a ranee. Do
not let it cook, but merely dissolve. Half an
houf before serving time butter a pie tin,
pour in the mixture and set in the oven to
brown.
Mountain Cakes.
One cupful fionr, one "cupful sweet milk, a
little salt and two eggs. Batter hot gem
pans, drop in batter and bake 20 minutes.
Caramel Ichig.
Take one-half cake chocolate, three cups
sugar (white of any kind), one cup sweet
milk and a small piece of hatter. Boll 23
minutes after the boding point is reaohed.
Chocolate Icing.
To the well-beaten white of an egg add
four ounces of powdered sugar, gradually,
until it becomes creamy. Melt two ouncei
of chocolate in a cup placed oyer hot water,
mix with the creamy substance and flavor
with vanilla.
Codfish Stew.
Pick the fish In small bits, removing skin
and bones. Freshen In cold water, drain
and cook gently for a few minutes in milk.
Season with butter and pepper, thicken with,
cold milk. Add two beaten eggs. Serve on
toast.
Apple Batter.
Feel six or eight tart apples, core them,''
susar and arrange on a pie tin covered with
a light batter. Bake until the apples are
tender:
Here are tome recipes for frugal dishes:
tleat Loaf.
Chop cold meat into small pieces, 'season
well, add a minced onion and two slices of
stale bread soaked In milk. .Mix well and
bake in a loaf.
s Baked Eggs.
Mince half a pound of lean boiled ham and
add to it an equal quantity of cracker meal.
Moisten and spread the mixture over a plat
ter, scoop out four round holes as large as
an egg, and break an egg Into each hole.
Season and serve when the eggs are done.
Superior Pudding.
Wash a Jialf cupful of rice through several
waters and let soak for 30 minutes. Cover
with two cupfuls of sweet milk and steam
until tender. Add a cnpfnl ot sugar, four
tablespoonfuls of strawberry juice and one
half box of Hoakcd gelatine. Stir until the
gelatine is dissolved. Set on ice and stir oc
casionally. When cold add two cupfuls of
whipped cream. Mold and set to stiffen.
Serve with strawberry sauce. This pudding
may also bo flavored with orange and served
with orange jelly.
Hints for the Homo.
Desszict never ought to be placed on the
sideboard. Keep in a cool place until serv
ing timo.
Vzxa melted butter, made with egg and
lemon, is the best accompaniment to every
kind of boiled flsh.
To get the natural flavor of the -potato,
hake it in Its Jacket.
Bbzad sippets, which aro used to garnish
many dishes, should be Invariably fried in
butter. Cut them out of stale bread with a
pasta cutter, being careful to have them of
uniform shape and of the same thickness.
Eixice Sxbxsjl
A SHAKE THAT EEAS0HZD.
How He Managed to Get a Txvs Oat "Wher
Ho Could Enjoy It.
I live on what was formerly called Slave
Island, and occupy a frame bouse which is
raised from the ground, says Donald Hel
lotte, a resident of Ceylon, in the St. Louis
Globe-Democrat. The damp condition of the
ground makes the island a popular place for
snakes and frogs, which penetrate .the
houses. One morning while I sat in my
room I saw a frog leap shrough a crack, in
the floor, near a corner in the wall. A
second later a cobra snake pushed it3 head
through the crack, and caught the frog be
fore it could getaway. When the snake
tried to withdraw his head the swelling
caused by the presence of the frog in hU
neck rendered the effort unsuccessful.
He disgorged his prey, but held fast to
one leg. Three times he swallowed the
frog, and three times had to give it up.
Finally his snakeship appeared to think,
end ended by grabbing the frog's leg, drag
ging it outside, and svt allowed it for good.
I think that was as smart a snake as yon
could find even in this country.
A Tork County Man Finds a Core for Dtu
rhoea.
Last summer during harvest time a man
by the name of Mackay (who is himself a
medicine agent for a cholera and diarrhoea
remedy), took a very severe attack of diar
rhoea while here. We had no other suitable
medicine in the house, so he said he would
try Chamberlain's Colic, Cholera and Diar
rhoea Remedy. AXter taking one dose he
felt great relief, and after taking three doses
according to directions he was entirely
cured, and has had no attack since. He
says it is the most pleasant medicine to take
and did him more good than anything he
had ever before tried. "We canecommend
it as being a very good remedy for diarrhoea.
Henbt Beeljiait,
wsn Dillsburg, York county, Pa.
Vxjssjtuse packed, hauled and shipped.
Hatjgh SsKxesxs, 33 "Water street
sn
m
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