Newspaper Page Text
In Unspoiled Tripoli 'By Mabel Loomis Todd Tripoli Most Enchanting of Ori ental Cities -Quaint Characters and Costumes on the Streets—A Silver City in the Moonlight—Life in the Harem—Inmates Heavily Jeweled and Tatooed—Weird Wedding Celebration—Bride a Concentrated Nightmare of Color —Hands Covered with Gold Leaf—Guests from the Desert. (Copyright, by Joseph B. Bowles.) CMrs. Mabel Loomis Todd, wife of Prof. David P. Todd, the noted astronomer of Amherst college, has enjoyed unusual facilities for traveling in little known i-orners of the earth, having accompanied her husband on Journeys undertaken for purposes of ustronomiciil research. Her father was Ua\ id Loomis, astronomer of Marv:ird university. Besides being a ta! filr* 1 writer for the magazines and author tpf several books, Mrs. Todd is a success f'il let Lurer.) Pedestrians have Tew rights in the narrow thoroughfares of Tripoli. In pursuing one's devious way, the tiny iiocls of omnipresent donkeys perhaps tu:!p sound enough to indicate their ::iiproanh, even if their drivers did not I'onscientiously 10 shout "Ralik! Balik!" tiie unwary- But they never swerve from their course. If one succeeds In i.imping out of the way in time, well :nd ?ood. Xot even so much notice i.i given of the soft-footed progress of the camel. During my weeks in Trip oli. most enchanting of unspoiled oriental cities, the first indication of the camel's presence was often the 1 ng, arched neck curving quite over ray shoulder as he silently overtook ni« and the supremely scornful face dose beside mine. It was quite in different to him where his next foot .step foil, but not being equally so to me. he immediately possessed the treet in clear and unrestricted owner ship. Four feet, not two, reign in Tripoli. Humauity Indeed is harder to dis entangle. Nationalities multiply with every step. Along the white walls and buildings, Arabs, Bedouins and Moors wrapped in white barracan flit swiftly, while Greeks, Maltese, black Sudanese and Fezzani—some polished like pat t-nt leather, others finished in dull tints like ebony—with fez and turban rags and bronze limbs, Turkish trous ers and Albanian drapery give still further accent, and would absolutely defy one to identify one's locality if suddenly set down in the midst of it all. In Tunis the Arabian women hide their facea, except the eyes, by a tightly strapped black veil, otherwise completely wrapped In a white bur noose. In Tripoli no veil is worn, but half of the left eye only is permitted to remain unshielded, and the bar racan is put on differently. I took several lessons in adjusting it, attain ing at last quite a degree of proficien cy. But 1 fear the right manipulation of all the complicated. If graceful, folds would not be possible in a coun try of tailor-made suits and sealskin coats. One's mental fitness varies •with environment. The peeping ad vantage of one bright black eve, or a small part of It, is rather an advantage than otherwise, for one may imagine all sorts of concealed beauty behind the white folds. A suggestion of eomethlng too choice and lovely for 'casual gaze envelops them, though in all my Tripoli experience actual .sight of the street shrouded faces never failed to disenchant. American udoption of the barracan might en hance the attractiveness of our street parades. Looking out of my window one morning—an entertaining employment hardly to be resisted—I witnessed an altercation which promised to turn into A genuine encounter. The com batants were apparently a jet-black vender of bottles carried about in a little push cart, and a lighter colored and nore fully clothed and befezzed person with a table on his head. A crowd of all the nations of the earth speedily collected, and the conversa tion reached a pitch that suggested the tearing out. of eyes and hair at mice. But Arabic is curiously em phatic, voices at best loud and hoarse wilh a guttural "catch" in the throat quite inimitable and this street fight turned out to be merely an amicable difference of opiuion soon adjusted by hui'^h from a bystander. Maltese women in the black head cover and cloak combined, several one-eyed Moslem dames and two aux ious hioking Roman Catholic sisters with a small brood of children whom they seemed to be initiating into the iliii'cult art of wearing Kuropean clothas, were among the spectators a Franciscan monk in brown robe and rope girdle stopped a moment as he passed, while a heavily turbaned Turk in a gorgeous red robe looked scorn fully upon these iuferior persons play ing at emotions. Days passed before I could intelli gently study these types, or feel oth erwise than that all were disporting themselves with histrionic intent. if these ordinary street scenes were picturesque, how much more the great Tuesday market or fair on the beach or pianura, where all the inhabitants for miles around from country and desert having anything to sell assem ble by sunrise and establish the ephe meral but crowded city of tents close to the gentle Mediterranean surf! Thousands come every week, laying out the seats and blankets in rows fac ing each other like little streets. As fti many oriental bazars, articles of ^ie kind are together. Next the wa ter a narrow way led between booths where meat was displayed tn tempt ing cuts the next showed vegetables another showed fruits, apricots, mul berries and a few belated oranges. Farther back, rude rugs and saddle bags were displayed by strange men with wild but not unamiable faces, while barbarous old women sold bead bracelets and huge earrings, strings of coral, silver chains and bandanna handkerchiefs.'Plaid cottons, woven in Tripoli, ia brilliant reds and yellows —barracans for the poorer class, who cannot afford the finer white ones— gave attractive suggestion of their utility as curtains and portieres in summer houses. But as usual much conversation on the subject was nec essary before a bargain was made on the basis of a proper price. The sell ers spoke Arabic to our attendant— the gorgeously Impressive cavasse of the British consulate—who turned their remarks into modern Greek for the consul's daughter, she in turn re constructing it all in French for me. A row of Arab men made on the spot the close-fitting white caps worn under the fez by men, and wild desert women, hardly a degree above four footed animals, were selling embroid ered head coverings for little girls younger than four years. One of the most picturesque groups was com posed of desert women seated flat in the sand surrounded by the woven straw covers for the bowls of cus-cus, a universal edible. These covers, like rather flat yet conical hats, with bril liant-colored strips of flannel woven in them, and of all sizes, were endless ly attractive, and I loaded the cavasse and my patient donkey with the spoils won by four languages. But life in the harems, with the inner courtyard as its chief theater, is unique. My first morning spent in these visits is most memorable. No moslem young girl in Tripoli goes into the street after early childhood until she has been some time married and then only after the customary style of barracan shelter. And one or two young girls with whom I talked evinccd a good deal of curiosity about the outer world, though never for a moment deeming it possible that they could see it for themselves before marriage. The coming husband Is distinctly a liberator. In one house the daughter was mak ing a sort of coarse lace with a cro chet needle. Her mother seemed to be washing some garment in a big flat bowl on the tiled floor of the court, her back bent double as she leaned, standing, to her task. An other middle-aged woman was seated on the floor of a room opening on the courtyard, sifting flour into different grades of fineness, preparatory to cus cus. A wizened little old woman crouched in a corner, grinding coffee in a tiny brass mill, and a few chil dren seemed to be promiscuously scat tered about. All the women were heavily laden with necklaces and bracelets and huge earrings. The courts were quite clean, many beauti fully lined with Moorish tiles, but barbarously Injured by the omnipres ent whitewash. A handsome black woman from the Interior seemed to be chief hostess in another harem, but a number of young married women of different nations hovered about with babies, pounds of jewelry and tattoo. One was quite covered with the blue black symbols—face, hands, arms— and, as she proudly announced, she had done it all herself, though not after the usual gunpowder method. Our shoes were removed, as in Japan, to go into the inner rooms, and a white sheepskin was brought for me to sit on. In one rather dirty little patio a forest of thread after dyeing was hanging overhead to dry in great skeins of scarlet and yellow and a pretty young girl was manipulating reels and bobbins as she sat in the shade. In another dwelling the chief apartment was shown—full of fine gold embroidery, on pillows and cush ions and divans, hung on the wall, spreal on the floor. Heavily curtained beds at each end were piled high with gorgeous cushions, it was still called the bridal chamber, though the bride showed her lusty babe of a year with evident pride, while a second, three weeks old, lay gurgling and meditat ing in a cradle close by. Sounds in Tripoli are almost as pic turesque as its sights, and several times, generally at night, one especial ly joyous cry echoed through the streets with a singularly penetrating vibration. This happy scream some times announces a birth, but it may be used to proclaim a wedding as well, or other fortunate happening. One Wednesday evening three genuine car riages passed, two containing Arab ladies and the last filled with black women, chanting weirdly, occasion ally giving vent to the characteristic resonant tremolo. All this signified that a prospective bridegioom's mother was announcing to the town her approaching happi ness. Glad tidings filled the air. The next night, Thursday, a favorite night for weddings, a large procession passed up and down through the nar row streets for hours. Arab men closely wrapped in white barracans like ghosts marched ahead of a com pany of black men, beating drums, burning red fire and exploding rockets and fire crackers. Behind came Mos lem boys swinging lanterns and occa sionally singing. In the midst walked the expectant bridegroom, taking this emphatic farewell of bachelorhood. Until two o'clock In the morning he paraded the streets, entertaining his friends and giving them a fine supper at the end. Meantime, the little bride would be brought by her relatives to his house, with somewhat less flourish, and placed In charge of his mother. Some time dtirins the.day he has oeen to the mosque, but it is not necessary tor the bride to go. The next day. Friday. I was invited to the wedding festivities. The fam ilies were of a far higher class than those of the harems 1 haJ previously seen. The pleasant courtyard was lined with fine green tiles in good de signs. the rooms opening directly upon It and also from a gallery above. In the center flat on the floor sat a dozen black women with coarse tambourines and small drums, keeping up an in cessant though intermittent noise -of chanting, but ranged about the sides on a platform slightly raised sat the chief female relatives and friends of the high contracting parties, and their effect was so theatrically dazzling that It was some time before I discovered which might be the bride. The love of aniline dyes rather than the lovely old soft oriental colors had infected all ranks, and as each Arab lady in Tripoli when indoors appeared in all the seven colors of the spectrum and a good many more not recognized by the rainbow, the effect of 40 or 50 to gether was overpowering. Jackets, blouses, short skirts, Turkish trousers, silk stockings, gold slippers and crim son, p.'nk, cobalt blue, scarlet, yellow, silver gauze and gold brocade distrib uted liberally on each woman—words convey little of the effect. Each face was painted dead white, with startling crimson triangles accurately set upon the caeeks eyebrows were heavily outlined in black and connected over the nose and yards of gold sequins and beads were looped around neck and arms and forehead. In the center of all this gorgeous ness sat the little bride, rigidly erect and immovable, with two especially resplendent friends on each side to fan and otherwise attend her. For hour3 she must neither move nor smile, nor even wink. Her hands were spread stiffly upon her knees, the Angers black with henna and gold leaf thickly laid on up to her wrists while as to costume, she was a con centrated nightmare of color. Her hair was braided down with blue silk and silver, her vest was gold brocade, her trousers were of blue velvet scar let and crimson disported bewildering ly among yards of gold coins and chain ot some white-petaled flower. Half a dozen holes in each ear sup ported an Immense weight of orna ments bracelets reached the shoul der. In every detail her decorations were bigger and brighter and more amazing than those of the others. Friday, from just before sunset, the bride sits thus like a statue for an hour or two, while the bridal chamber is examined, the viands discussed and much hilarity prevails among the as sembled women. The father of this particular bride had had but four wives, and there had been but 50 chil dren altogether. Of these 25 or 30 had died young, so the poor man had not married into a very extensive con nection. But he was grateful for even so many relatives-in-law. The most really Interesting figures in all t'nls wedding party were a group of Be'louins, who had come up from the desert, strange, bright-eyed wom en, with the great Sahara spaces breathing from their weird personal ity. They were draped in silver chains and bangles, their dark robes being held together by splendid old silver clasps and buckles. Their ear rings were so heavy that they had to be atiached to the head covering as well. These were the reai essence of the orii,t, the breezy embodiment of free rur. but showing, too, a shy dis trust {.( ways other than their own. Saturday, too, the little bride sits for hours in state, but afterward the ceremonies proper are over, though she Is dressed and waited upon and made the guest of honor in her hus band' house for a month. After that practical life begins. Grotesque as are some customs, con fused is are nationalities and races, then? .a yet. a strange and inexplicable cliarm about Tripoli. It took a perma nent iiold upon my heart and imagina tion. and when 1 saw its white minar ets and domes grow less upon the horizon, fading almost into the blue of the incomparable Mediterranean, I was glad to remember that I had sure ly stopped upon the little plate of brass .it the sea gate as came away, which by a native superstition means certain return to Tripolitan joys. The Feeling Was the Same. There is a little girl in a little town "up the state" who has been brought up most carefully, and whose father and mother have taken the utmost pains that she should hear nothing but English, absolutely untainted by slang, to say nothing of more forcible lan guage. She was therefore kept from the society of children of her own age, and the weekly young people's meet ings at one of the village churches were the only form of entertainment (if such they may be called) that she had ever attended. One evening she was playing all by herself as usual, and had built on the side porch an imposing edifice of blocks. She sat looking at it, possibly planning additional improvements, when her elder brother, "a real grown up young man," same up 'the steps with one of his college friends. One of them made a careless step, and In an instant the house of blocks was in ruins. The little girl jumped to her feet and stood a moment, struggling with emotions that seemed too large tor her. then she burst out: "Christian Endeavor! Ra jc ot Ages! Onward, Christian Soldiers!—I'm swearing, brother Henr. In the meadow o- field where sheep are pastured during the day, is a small pen, which is divided by a cross fence and covered on the ton by strong slats. Two gates are made so that they will swing open of their own accord and remain so, unless held closed or fas tened. The gate is furnished with a latch by which it is fastened when closed. This gate is intended to ad mit the dog into the part of the pen A when he is attracted to it by a sheep confined for the purpose in the other part of the pen B. In the A part of the pen is a heavy board reaching across it. One edge of this board rests upon THE CULTURE OF ASPARAGUS By W. R. Beattie. This crop can be grown on almost any well-drained soil, but will do best on a deep, mellow, sandy loam. There is little possibility of having the land itoo rich, and liberal applications of rotted barnyard manure should be made before the plants are set. It is usually more satisfactory to purchase two-year-old roots from some seeds man or dealer. The price of good roots is generally about $1.25 per hun dred, and 100 to 200 plants will be found sufficient to supply the ordinary family. The roots should be trans planted during the late autumn or early spring. Before setting out the plants the land should be loosened very deeply, either by subsoil plowing or deep spading. It is a good plan to remove the topsoil and spade manure into the subsoil to a depth of 14 or 16 inches then replace the topsoil and add more manure. There are two methods of setting an asparagus bed, depending entirely upon the kind of cultivation to be employed in the gar den. If horse tools are to be used, the plants should be set in rows three and a half feet apart and 14 inches apart in the row. On the other hand, if the garden space is limited the plants should be set in a solid bed. one foot apart each way, and culti vated by hand. In setting asparagus the crowns should be covered to a depth of four or five inches. At the north it will be desirable to mulch the asparagus bed during the winter with three or four inches of loose manure or straw. In the south the covering during the winter will not be neces sary, but the bed should receive a dressing of manure or fertilizer at some time each year, preferably in the autumn. Hard Milking.—"Hard milking" oc curs from varied causes. Sometimes the trouble is due to an unnatural construction of the entire length of the canal of the teat, sometimes to new growths along its course, and not infrequently to little shot-like bodies attached to a pedicle, which drop down into the canal from above and form a sort of a ball-valve obstruc tion. Again, says Farm Journal, the trouble may come from injuries to the lower part (the sphincter of the teat). These last causes usually arise from injuries received from without, and occasionally are due to warty growths at the opening of the teat. Needs a Separator.—The farmer that has a good-sized herd of cows and has no separator can well afford to sell his poorest cow and buy a separator. It will save him money ia the end. JL Trap for Sheep-Killing Dogs A Convenient Portable Fence 1 1 The panels in the portable fence shown here are made of four-inch fencing, 14 feet long, with six-inch spaces between the boards, thus mak ing a fence three feet high by allowing the cleats to project two inches. If the fence is fo be used for pigs the lower space may be reduced to four inches and the upper one increased to I the ground against two pegs, which keep it from slipping backward. The other edge is kept up by means of two shaky, slender supports. A rope is fas tened to the upper edge of this board and to the gates so that one-half of it when the board is propped up, allows the gate A to swing open and the oth er half holds the gate shut and thus keeps the sheep confined. The trap Is now set. A dog seeking entry into the pen finds the gate open and rushes over the board, thus knocking It down. The gate A is closed by the rope and fastened, while the gate is allowed to swing open and set the sheep free. EFFECT OF SOILS ON PLANTS By C. L. Alton. While variations of climate produce wonderful changes in vegetable forms, it Is a well-established fact that any vegetable grown in a given soil will assume a very different form when grown on either a heavier or a lighter one. This has been shown in a re markable degree "with the cabbage. A given variety grown for a long num ber of years on a heavy soil, with a liberal supply of plant food, proper care in growing the plants and in transplanting them, and constant cul tivation until the crop is matured, will develop a type remarkable for size and vigor, with excellent keeping qualities, and be what is known as a Late Flat Dutch or Drumhead cab bage. On the other hand, take the same stock seed, grow it on a light sandy soil, under the same climatic influences, with the same care in cul tivation. always selecting with a view to earliness and solidity, and the re sult will be in the same number of years a variety of the same general form but of smaller size and very much earlier. Again, a soil inter mediate in character, from the same stock, during the same period, with the same care in selection, will give a variety intermediate in character as well as in period of growth. Red Cedar.—Red cedar, from which pencils are made, has become BO scarce that it enjoys the unique dis tinction of being bought and sold by the pound. Most of this cedar comes from Tennessee, Alabama and Florida, and the supply in Tennessee Is nearly gone. Fence rails that weathered the civil war have gone into pencils. Stumps have been dug up and sold for more than the trees which were cut frim them to make railroad ties. Fence posts have given way to newer kinds of wood and have been carted to the pencil factory to be sold tor ten cents a hundred pounds. And yet this red cedar will grow anywhere In the United States where the soil does not contain too much sand or clay will flourish on land that is unfit for agriculture, and will reach a size fit for pencil making when 25 years old. —Department of Agriculture. Good Prices for 8tock.—The era of cheap meat seems to be as far off as ever and it looks as if consumption has overtaken and passed production. There is undoubtedly room for much increase in the production of live stock, but with the population increas ing at the rate of 2,000,000 a year and plenty of work in sight for everybody, the possibility of any alarming sur plus in the supply of food for many years has been practically eliminated. eight inches. The fence is held in place by triangular frames. The ends of the panel overlap about six inches and fit into notches for the top and bottom boards. The brace should be on the out'side of the lot. It may be necessary in some cases to stake the panels at the braces to secure great er stability. HERITAGE OP CIVIL WAR. Thousand* of 8oldiers Contracted jChronle Kidney Trouble While in the Service. The experience of Capt. John L. Ely, Ot Co. E, 17th Ohio, now living at 500 East Second street, Newton, Kansas, will interest the thou sands of veterans who came back from the Civil War suffering tor tures with kidney com plaint. Capt. Ely says "I contracted kidney trouble during the Civil War, and the oc casional attacks final ly developed into a chronic case. At one time I had to use a crutch and cane to get about. My back was lame and weak, and besides the aching, there was a distressing retention of the kidney secretions. I was in a bad way when I began using Doan's Kidney Pills in 1901, but the remedy cured me, and I have been well ever since." Sold by all dealers. 50 cents a box. Foster-Milburn Co, Buffalo, N. T. Precisely Defined. Kniclcer—What was the size ot the fish he caught? Bocker—Between a lie anil a fake. Hard on Pop. Pa—"Thomas, I'm disgusted at this report of your teacher's. Why don't you ever know your lessons?" Tommy—"They're too hard." Pa—"Nonsense! They're not too hard for Johnny Jones, are they?" Tommy—"Aw, that's different. John ny has got a smart father, an' he In* herits his brains." Woman's Way. "What an actress that woman Is! She pretends to be glad to see me." "But you were a match for her?" "Indeed, yes! I pretended to bo lust as glad to see her." THREE B0Y8 HAD ECZEMA. Were Treated at Dispensary—Did Not Improve—Suffered Five Months —Perfect Cure by Cuticura. "My three children had eczema for five months. A little sore would ap pear on the head and seemed very Itchy, Increasing day after day. The baby had had It about a week when the second boy took the disease and a few sores developed, then the third boy took It. For the first three months I took* them to the N— Dispensary, but they did not seem to Improve. Then 1 used Cuticura Soap and Cuti cura Ointment and in a few weeks they bad improved, and when their heads were well you could see nothing of the sores. Mrs. Kate Kelm, 513 West 29th St., New York, N. Y., Nor. 1. 5 and 7, 1906." KISSING DAYS. Observance of Ancient Custom by an English Fishing Town. Yesterday, says a late issue of the London Evening Standard, was "kiss ing day" at Hungerford, a quiet com munity on the western borders of Berkshire, renowned for its trout fish ery and its faithful adherence to the ancient customs of Hocktide, which have been observed since the days ot John Gaunt, duke of Lancaster, who granted the rights and privileges to the commoners. At daybreak the town crier, arrayed in a new livery, took his stand on the town hall balcony and blew his lusty blasts on the historic horn, which Is the symbol of Hungerfordian liberty. Then the "tuttimen" went forth hew ing staves garlanded with flowers and made a perambulation of the town, kissing every lady whom they met and demanding a penny from every mni* householder. The sum thus obtained served to purchase oranges for scrambling among the crowd of children who fol lowed in their footsteps. The ladies took the kissing in good part, and the males paid up smilingly. Meanwhile the Hocktide jury was transacting more serious business ia the town hall, electing a constable, who is both a coroner and a mayor, also appointing keepers of the keys of the common coffer, bailiff, por treeve and other ancient officers whose duties are rather obscure. FOUND OUT. A Trained'Nurse Made Discovery. No one is in better position to know the value of food and drink than a trained nurse. Speaking of coffee, a nurse of Wilkes Barre, Pa., writes: "I used to drink strong coffee myself, and suffered greatly from headaches and Indiges tion. While on a visit to my brothers I had a good chance to try Postum Food Coffee, for they drank It alto gether in place of ordinary coffee. In two weeks after using Postum I found 1 was much benefited and finally my headaches disappeared and also the indigestion. "Naturally I have since used Postum among my patients, and have noticed a marked benefit where coffee has been left off and Postum used. "I observed a curious fact about Postum when used among mothers. It greatly helps the flo\p 0f milk in cases where coffee is inclined to dry It up and where tea causes nervousness. "I find trouble in getting servants to make Postum properly. They most always serve it before It has been boiled long enough. It should be boiled 15 to 20 minutes after boiling begins and served with cream, when It Is cer tainly a delicious beverage." Read "The Road to Wellvllle" In pkga. "There's a Reason."