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The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, September 09, 1910, Last Edition, Image 10

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10 THE WASHINGTON TIMES FRIDAY y SEPTEMBER 9 1910 1910The 1910The
The Romance of the Shoe Is Vividly Recalled to Mind By ByRobert 1 1c 11i
c 1i n Robert Berberichs So Sins s Free Shoe Manufacturing Exhibition
1
<
Cinderellas s Mythical MythicalSlipper MythicalRenown Slipper 1Per p of o StoryBook StoryBookRenown StoryBookRenown torY = o0
Renown Has Had Many Counterparts CounterpartsIn
In n Real RealL e Life e ThrougKout rocoutse g go the Ages AgesThe AgeThe e
The he Evolution of the o Shoe and Shoe ShoeManufacturing ShoeManufacturingRekds Manufacturing ManufacturingReads ManufacturingReads
Reads Like a Fairy Tale From F rom thePen the thePen thePen
Pen of o oCROWDS f Hans Andersen AndersenCROWDS AndersenCROWDS
>
CROWDS MARVEL AT UNIQUE DISPLAY DISPLAYEntire DISPLAYeel
I IEntire
Entire h Store Transformed T Transform eel Into a Completely Equipped Equipped1Factory EquippedFactory
Factory Manufacturing HighGrade Hi g gRight h Shoes ShoesRight ShoesRight
Right Before the Visitors Eyes EyesComparison EyesComparison EyesComparison
Comparison of Modern Shoe Manufacturing MethodsWith Methods MethodsWith lvlethodsVith
With Those of Yesterday Emphasizes Superiority of ofPresentDay orPresentDay ofPresent
PresentDay Present Day DayBalhadea Shoemaking ShoemakingBallades
Ballades Bn have been be penned by byper the Vilkm of tbe t ages se to Milady 1 sttp sttpper sl lt ltper
per BoMtaaas have been compose anti posed while rhymeters rhyymetlerli vmJM their wise wtnefrom wbtefrom wisefrom
from the silky shell which w ldlll bad covered C tile dainty foot of a woman Haters Hatershave RqHenhave Rapiershave
have flashed 11 through the years because e of a shapely boot set upon the tbeheart t1Mheart theheart
heart of man That wa was the Romance of the Shoe ShoeToday ShoeToday ShoeToday
Today tIM poets sing no loosen TIle rapiers were years 7e1t1Sbarded ago scabbarded scab scabbarded
barded and for forgotten B but the shoe hoe still bas its romance r Its Itssesiera modem bfe bfetory isUry hietory
Ury tory has been illumined UIUll Ded by the romantic Jives of such men > of 0Elias goalies as asElias paElias
Elias Howe Gordon McKay cltq Charles arles Goodyear Jan Mataettnur r aM ana a beet beetof tof bootof
of other inventors who spared not the Midnight oil their own 0 health or Ute tbewelfare Utewelfare thewelfare
welfare of their families in their endeavor to supply the ceaoelccn dema demand demandfor cIemaIIIilfor d dfor
for machinery machinerymore more machinery ac nacbinerythat that came from an industry the dMment develop ievelopment development ¬
ment of of which from the primitive band methodsand Jllet meibod oft Stall toll of oentnrtes oentnrtespast ceIIt1u1epast OGturleepast
past began a little less than eftJr > fty years 7 atpo for the history of ofmakiD s > modern wera afcoe afcoeNor sbcemaking =
makiD making le 1aqe1y the story fill bIeatiol1 aM MadaiDery MadaiDeryNor
Nor has the shoe lost its charm or its power to attract The creations creationsof
of the latter day disciple of Si Crispin command couwi ad attention a traa fromevery fromeverystore froaflftrystore every everystore
store window hi which they are displayed Never before bd we m Ia all history hisborhrhas historyhas 1dIJtor7has
deli 4 designed ui ied so sodurably JIOdurably sodurably
has there been produced footwear that was was more daintily
durably constructed or more beautifully finished finishedThe biDedThe SnitbedThe
The exemplification of modern shoemaking IIoemak to which Robert Per Berberichs Becberichs Perberichs
berichs Sons Company are treating the residents of this city at their new newSIS newSig
SIS Pennsylvania Petm ma Avenue Branch has not only 001 attracted widespread eM atten attention attention attention ¬
tion locally b bat > ti has drawn no small number DumheroC of visitors from surrounding eurrouhdingStates surroundingStates ArtOt tdingStates
in I those tIaoIIewbo who recall the thesfroemakine theloemak theshoemaking
States It has awakened + d a flood of reminiscence rftl pj
shoemaking loemak of half a century ago and widespread interest m the remark remarkable remarkable remarkable ¬
able evolution evolu oa that has taken place in shoemaking Jl > methods seth ° da In no in industry industry Industry ¬
dustry has this modem ikyeloTmetbees development been > more we truly American and in inno inno inno
no commodity is the eu snaeriocttF erhtt c < ° the Aa Americanmade > reaamade made prodaet so univer universally lIOer lIOersalIy tlniverSa11Y ¬
sally recognised r fM Tw Americanmade Aa aaode afcotf is today j liar standard acrdthe acrdthes aOl of the theworld th thor1d
world s or1d
worldThe The exhftttis exJdlJlt lis the largest iar est ever eve attempted 1 rptea aside from those made at atWorlds atWor1ds atWorlds
aM l has been made madepany macIepossible madepossible
Worlds FaIrs Ttlnwr or Exposition ExI national Bt in character ar
possible only t tile cooperatlon of tile t > te U United Shoe J CoM CoMpany Coaainstallthe
pany of Boston who make Jllkeaacl and andvhoe install installthe the machines used aad ad the Craddocfc CraddocfcTerry CracIdockferry CraddockpanY
Terry Shoe Oompany y of o Lynehburg LyJIC Virginia manufacturer etnrof of the Crad Crad Craddockr Craddock
Terrydock dock dock a popular popcMof afco shooter for mens wear wearTHE wearTHE ear earTHE
THE SHOEMAKING OF THE ANCIENTS
The machine shown an those of the therow Si Siow
row ow famous Goodyear Welt ssystenatrhlch system systemwhole Q1Itemhlch I
trhlch hlch an allII 8t uaivermtiy wd enally employed emp10yedSn
Sn the maavfactUft of shoes of 1e high hIcbgrade highest
ue whole exhibit Is Isarranged m marranged
est grade aDd Isfrom
arranged that visitor III pang from fromquence fromcne fromone
one macldDe to another Ia Je regular se sequence JIe JIefluence
are enabled to grasp the Import Important important important ¬
quence
ant part parting that each machine plays playsmakinl in inmaking
making Goedytu Welt shoes more du durable du duTable
Table more fortable em lid more pleasing pleaS pleaSjng
ttIaa them made iii iiiany inany
ing in inanv appearance
other way wayCrude wayCrude eaTC
any
footwear t tJOk tJOkthe ok sokthe okthe
Crude C rude ta tat inception
the primary form L of a iJDpIe l land soars soarsand aI aIand
and man probably P protected JJS JJSpieces his feet feethen feetwhen
when hen the necessity ant arose bY bYJieces bhrUng bhrUngDdeces
18 bIa feet feetb feetb
dried hide
pieces of ro roiv rough
leathern thong yet the theof tJaeJ thee
iv b means of
of all fenR8 feriaeof fenR8of
e J ndal andal among tile earliest
te still the form found fOUDdamong foundamong
of foot covering j jamong
people W When tile tikoths tileGOths
among primitive J JGoths
descended d eOnded upo 1IPOD Rome Romethey
Goths G Gthey oths and Huns 1 1th
they th wore ta addition fO o proteetloa P rOll rOllthe forthe for forjusting
the sole of the foot a leg I cover1Dlf coveriUCeFisting 1
bound to tothe tothe
tanned skIDs
Fisting of ofthe softly tot t
the limbs lim by thongs This was the fore forerunner foreTUnner fore1 fore1runner ¬
runner ol the high boot from which hleh hlehohed was wasvolved wasvotved
volved the Jack Boot so t familiar nl iar ta tathe inthe I It1f
portraits of t tRichelieus the French daDdIes oL oLRicheUeu ofRichelieus
the
>
Richelieus time timetrusty Whee side tIVIII his histrusty I
trusty blade the cavaliers cavatterHis boots were weret westthe
t the he most expeaaive 4 eaMft a striking part perthis e I
His costume costumeAt cost > ane aneAt
the BdstbetMa perIo4I eboeyriaking 8boe 8boemaking
At a athe abOut
making bad really bocot + ne a very dad dadart j jart
art and same foot aestieoim cree w wbv sale saleby
court Itkenl IIboeJ that relleckll relleckllthe reaecttdthe
bv the
the the individual al taste of the monarch monarchsomething monarchro J JSo
lioII IIOdIIce IIOdIIceOmeth piudneesomething
So great was Ute cosapetidOfl ut
something Ometh novel that very often the thestiles thestyles i iQles
stiles assumed a grotesque eItq1M aspect < The Thetoes JIaetoe Thetoes
toes were ere etonged w I so that finally they theyootwtar tIIeYWtr theywere
were carried ep aDd tasteDed fastC ied br co IIj IIjd cordsatd
atd d tneets to tile tOIIW to otu of the ebees ebeestrd I Ilnd
to oaact a law lawto i
lnd it became necessary ry
10 prevent sudi coittaaeod IAtII types ell ellootwtr of ofootwcar
ootwtar The uppers of Uifa period periodwere periodWeN periodwere
were of extreme highheeled t e4 variety varietyAttfm varietyl i iand
forth < i Cayress < Attfm Mu jBfeeint ent t on onana oatheir onand
and emaiheir su small n ntheir l
their heir OTii ornamentation orn 3 fltatlon They were mostly mostlyof
of the turnshoe t Me type t and samples sampleswhich amplelawhich sampleswhich
which are preserved preeerv p Od show the excellent excellentworkmanship esceUeatrkmaDSl eltceI nt nttit
workmanship tit rkmaDSl p that was in vogue at atthat atthat atthat
that time timeEarly timeTHE
THE trineFIIIST FIRST llO HOES T TGa1t
cI cIEarl Ga1t CA CAt CAEarly
t
mff mffCat W the theCatN
Early Earl Y YCat
Cat CatN f Inventors1 orsStabiikY StabHky St > oft of oftte oftbe
tbe tte I fadosary ThremieBed ThremieBedtrip T Tt
When t the Ma MVdovre > z mmde thi second eecoII4U1p secondtrip
trip to p rvmo motth tn h she s carried among amongothers aBlOllCthe amongotters
ahAeinaer named m mEeard Thomas ThomasEear hOdansEeard
others the a
Eear Eeard < i who broujfbt t with him a supply supplyof
of hides Seven year ydifa fo afterward there therearrived therearrted therearrived
arrived one PbiJKp Rutland Ji H + rt rtlanL nt1r a n native nativeot lire lireof
ot BnckinphaaniWre guritidnghasf 1n halllllhtre whofettled WtI8 in inLynn IDLvnninJ inLynn
Lynn LvnninJ LvnninJK in 3t3 io iobertlsnd T TK
bertlsnd K < rHand was eras the p pioneer iris snoemaker snoemakerO 5
O of that city ty and for years h 1 successfuTiy success successfully SUCCE8Sinny ¬
fully wrk wrkMl w irked < v at his craft teaching teachingethers tfacbi tfacbithers taachinlgothers
ethers his methods meth ds and ways so that thatSfteen thatftHI thatfifteen
fifteen ypirs > rc after Lynn w vas + s not only onlySUilpIyTSg onlYplttii onlyntsppblW
SUilpIyTSg plttii the he lequue reoiuresaku ta of its in ina
a
habitants tot w aIM sanding a pan panAs panof panof
of b predurcts p t to die pen of f Boston BoROILAs BostonAs
As early as IMS tanning and ahocmahing ahocmahingare iIoelllaldngJDe1ItIoaed
are mentioned as an industry of the thecolony thecoIoay thecolony
colony of Vfa Vir1dJda pdaia haa special mentionbeing mention mentionbeing JDellUOnbeing
being made of the fact that a planternamed planter planternamed pJan r rDallIed
named Matthews employed eight t shoe shoemakers hoekeIs shoemakers ¬
makers on his piguitof Y Legal re restraint re reIItn restraint ¬
straint was paced on the cordwatoer cordwatoerin
in Connecticut C Cem ecticut 1eut in MM HI and in Rhode RhodeIsUnd RhodeISaad Rhodehand
hand ta 1786 while ta New Tork thebuMnem the thehuHlntsiT thebme
huHlntsiT of tanning and shoemaking IIIa Jrlug Is Isknown ISanna Isknown
known to have been firmly established establishedprevious establishedJIIIrV establishedprevious
previous to the capitulation of the theprovince theto theprorlaee
province to England 1aDd ta MM In MK 18 thelndutstiy the tbetadusUy the1nUS
tadusUy was carried on profitably in inPhiladelphia 111Pldladeld InPhiladelphia
Philadelphia a and in na the Colons Colon1Legislature Coloalalare l lLinlatuare
Legislature are of Pennsylvania passed passedact aD anact aDact
act regulating the material and theof t tprices the theprices
prices of the boot and shoe industry 1Dd1IstryJIbe IndustryThe industrythe
JIbe yCMUIg man who essayed to lcmn lcmnthe a aUK
the shoemaking art at this lb time was
Lt approtked 4IIIticed for seven years aDd in that tllattie thattime
tie he was taught easy detail or the tf1 tf1buBlU8S < j jbnetaess
business He was instructed in the art artof artof arttof
of shaping the insole and omaolc de depending delh11ng depending ¬
pending lh11ng almost entirely upon his eyefor eye eyefor eJefer
for the proper proportions PlVIH Uua taught to toprepare topnpre
prepare pegs and to drive them for tile tnepegged
pegged shoe was due most common type typeof typeof typeof
of footwear In the early half of the thelast thelast I Iceat
last century ceat He also familiarized him himself hbnI himf ¬
self with the making of turn and welt weltshoes weltoboes I
shoes which have always been consid considered aidI coasideyed ¬
ered the highest type of shoemaking shoemakingregdrtng shoemaktagrequiring lIIao1fn
1
requiring as they did exceptional skill skilloa skillon
oa the part of the artisan of that period periodta i iIII
ta channeling the insole and outsoto byhand by byhand i iIIaDd
hand rounding the sole 8 sewing the thewelt thewell thewelt
welt and stitching the outside outsideAfter outsideAfter I IAfter
After having 1Ia Jll served his apprenticeship apprenticeshipit
it wus the custom for the rollfledged rollfledgedshoemaker tullftedgedtsboftDaker fullfledgedab
shoemaker ab to start on nnt what was known knownas knowuWbIppinf
as whipping the eat which m nvant nvantjourneying ant antjounaeying
journeying rom town to town towd livingwith living livingwith
with a famBy while ntalrmg a years yearssupply years51Ipply
supply of shoes for each member and andmoving andmovinas
moving on to fill engagements pre preof proidaije
idaije 1ae7Ur line was one
of unjsual moment t to the shoe shoe indus industry IndusY indusvey ¬
try for in t list t yr > er arrived one John JohnAUams IobnA41ams JohnAdams
Adams Ixagyr I Dngyr was a celebrated celebratedshoemaker celebratedshoenaka
shoemaker 8bMm of amex and richly deserved deservedthfc 4Ie deservedthe
thE > monuraent on monm ent which has recently been beenerected beenftWtM beenerected
erected tc ids memoir in Lynn He Hewas Hevas
was vas a mastercraftsman ma and taught hisart his hisart hisart
art to many who afterwards becamemast became becamemoat Ders8IeInt
moat mgteesftil in Int lathe the industry industryIt try
liftS It tissromteuadthat w soon fmrad f awd that the muterw nesterworkcoild master work workInan rkco
Inan coald co lJd largely iUcretee ttlct ase his income incomey iucouy
y employing eIIIP empiaytisdt 4tJ sV incn ll i do the work workled
kidle he dtrected orts thI thIled
tp4 a aGpIMn
led led to tea a vMoa ofTb work workftnrtfae workitli
itli ftnrtfae tfse ttttte uppers which had prior prIorto prIortoiJd io iooUs to1Dk
oUs time has been sewed by men using usingwaxed 1IIIIDgWaxed usingwaxed
waxed thread wM bustles became becameart a aart apart
art art of the work of atIn women womenIn wenIn
In the year D5 135 t the evolution utfon of theiractory the thefjkctory the6etory
fjkctory system had reached a stagein stage stagewhere
where hi Lynn alone aJouetb there te were were ere two twotsan twoJnaStet twob
tsan b redmaater rjett Jtnaster worlonen employing esnploytng aipIoYlngfiIO aipIoYlngfiIOI flftjourneymen eau eauj
I j journeymen j ineymen and turning out 380OW pairs pairsof pairst pairsOf
of cooes per year The entire re shoew shoe shoevo shoethea
vo w then made under one roof and aDdMt andylrpai
1 awiHtfrgy ylrpai grom ittl leather that ± was tannedontjse tanned tannedPtacitepy taa1fGIIQie
GIIQie remee5 remee5Pamoey
GIIQiebldldhtp Ptacitepy buildings wr not at this thistime thisSf thistime
time Sf f a very ery pretentious D US nature and anddid and4icJ anddid
did not by y any means represent the thei tbeI
t inioisnt mo lmt of r work UM undertaken rtaken bytbe by the proc pro PJOtQf
I c WrtQ1 tQf Use Dan Id x Ie fact1l1 facjgrlessiaome fact1l1of
i cutne siaome of which bid are thin standing came
Into existence at this time as It was wasfound Vastouad wasfound
found by many who were farmers that thatshoemaktag thatsb thatsboeaaklhg
shoemaktag sb was a remunerative occu occupation oeeuation oxupation ¬
pation ta the winter and they with withperhaps withNI1I withperhaps
perhaps a Tew ew neighbors gathered ta tathese IIIue Inthole
these little shops and took from the thedifferent thedUrer thedlffer
dUrer different mt factories shoos on which tofasten to tofasten tofa8t
fa8t fasten the soles er r ppan upper to bind bindwhich bIncIwIItda bindwhich
which after completion n of the work workwere workwen workwere
were returned to the factoty ctOt Y where wheretaey wheretltey wherethey
they were finished hecl anti 1 sent to tomarket tomarket tomarket
market packed pack l to wooden wood boxes box It Itwas Itwas Itwas
was ta this tb way that tbi th s industry industryslowly IntiuatryIIIowly Industryallowly
slowly prospered and developed de opecl up to tothe totbe tothe
the period of UM Introduction of ma machines 1Dachtaea machines ¬
chines which happened but a little everhalf over overhalf oyerhair
half a century ago agoUp pUp agoUp
Up to the year y 3tU 1tk 1 when a machine machinewas JDclaIftewu machinewas
was invented na for making MkIb shoe 81M pegs pegsthere peathere peasthere
there was absolutely no nmdttiteiji u used UiIedlit usedIa ed edta
ta the making of sh shoes e Th TItIIIaoe Th4 pegged peggedhoe
hoe became very widely wW worn at this thisperiod thisperiod 1
period but it was not until V i36 thatany that thatany UIataay
any machine J for driving pegs was wasmade w wJDa6e wasmade
made and even at this time th the the1Nt ma machine 111aduhis ¬
chine was but an Indifferent success successIt
It was a hand machine and its work workwas workWU workwas
was by no means of a reliable natureThe nature natureThe tare tareAr8t
The first machine to i he widely ac accepted accepted cccopied ¬
cepted by the trade was a machine for forrolling forroll forroll
roll roll rolling the sole eoIelid eie leather under pressureand pressure pressureand
and R is said 14 that a man could per perfsrm perin perform
form in a minute with this machine machinethe JIUIdlIDethe machinethe
the same me office that he would have re reQUh re rea remreil
QUh mreil d a half hour to have performed performedwith hafctrJDedwith performedwith
with the oldfasfeioaed oldfa b lap stone st and andhammer ADdThis andmmmer
hammer This was followed ta 184S bythe by bythe y ytile
the most important iavent invention Oll the sew sewtnc 1IeWmaebi sewlaw
law machine maebi which was W perfected by byElias byEltaa byElsa
Elias Howe and was soon n followed by bya bya bya
a machine which sewed with waxed waxedi waxeduand wartedthread
i thread and made It possible to rapidly rsptdlyew rapidlytile rapidlysew
sew ew the uppers of shoes in a much muchmore mucbaIOIe muchmore
more reliable and satisfactory mannerthan manner mannerUuui mIUWrtbaa
than they had ever been sewed by byhand byhaDd byband
hand Soon afterward came a machine machinewhich maehiaewhich machinewhich
which split It the sole leather Jeath and another an another DotM ¬
other for buffing bufftn or removing 1emovi the grain grainIn paiLID
In the year lifts Lyman R R Blake in inveiited Inelated Inrented
elated what was afterward known knowntbe asthe as asthe
the McKay Sole Sewing SewI Machine and andwhich aDdwhich andwhich
which was destined to bring to him ta taafter 111after Inotter
after We the million 8 with which he so
therefore engaged en aged ether mechanics to towork towork towork
work upon the machine and some fourmotels four fourmolels fOUl1DOtlehr
motels were constructed before a sue suece nc1 nc1cessfnl ac acul
cessfnl ce ful ul machine was produced This Thismachine Th Th1INLcballe Thlsmachine
machine sewed simply turn shoes and andtinned andIt andit
It was many years ears before It was a eon ceB1Irmed eonilrmoe
tinned success Mr Goodyear r had nosooner no nosooner 110r
sooner r demonstrated that it was possi possible Ihie possible ¬
ble to sew turn shoes by b machine than thanhe thanbe thanhe
he started mechanics to perfecting a amachine amachine amachine
machine for sewing welts which he heaccomplished be beaccomplished heaccomplIshed
accomplished a few years afterwardClosely afterward afterwardClosely atterWldCJoeely
Closely following < Mr GeodyearS In Invention IDentlon inventlon ¬
vention came the introduction of the thefirst theAnt thelint
first machine used In connection withheels with withheels WIthheehI
heels and from these early machines machinesnae machiueshave machineshave
have been evolved the perfected heeling heelingmachines heeUDgwbich heelingma
machines ma blues which are in us use at the present pres present preseat ¬
ent time dIIIeFurtber umeFurther j
Further improvements were made by7dr by byMrtUoedyear Ityxr
MrtUoedyear xr Goodyear following followl Ute line estab established estAbled estabt ¬
t led med by CoJoiel McKay In the build buildIng butldIft buildIna
Ift Ing < of auXllta auxiliary machines to take care earsof careof eareor
of the different operations necessary inmaking In tamaking In1IIk1
making 1IIk1 a perfect welt shoe These Dte8eere Dte8eereuae were wereUte werethe
Ute early machines of the Goodyearwelt Goodyear GoodyearWelt GoodYftIXWelt
Welt system which have been the sub subject subJect subJoel ¬
ject or constant ImprovementTHE Improvement ImprovementTHE j jTHE
THE PERIOD OF OFGREATEST OFGREATEST OFGREATEST
GREATEST INCREASE INCREASEFormation INCREASEFormation INCREASEFormation
Formation of the United Shoe Machinery Ma Machinery Machinery ¬
chinery Company New Madirnes Ma Macfeines 11 a adtjnes
cfeines and Methods Methodsin
in 1 the year 31 DIR there had been per perfected perfeetM perfected ¬
fected not only the Ukehtnes which Mr MrMcKay 11 11eKay MrMcKay
McKay > and Mr Goedyear Goed had been In Instrumental Inbtal hiatrmnental ¬
strumental btal in bung buIIdI bat other htvenj htvenjtors laveaIIton Inver Invertoo
ton bad introduced similar machines machinesfor madI madIfor macbtnesfor
for doing ClOt smH st11t11sr r work This brought fcrooghtabout broaShtabOUt broughtabout
about the moot aeate bost rosiness tee < ess ceoipeU ceoipeUtlon COIIIJNtlon Competition
tlon and anally resulted in many Instances in instances tnJ tnJuaaces
stances In which Ida one mil daIDe chine mann marauanturer manna JIlTaaahur
a ahur anturer turer alleging < that the machine of hi hirival it itrtval his hisrlval
rival infringed his patent Ia Dt rights woullImmediately woui wooaof wooaoftmmedlately t timmediately
immediately bees sun and the th eapd e denxetkind flereest flereestkind t tkind
kind oT litigation was estabU esta established b d Thishad This Thisbad nabbad
bad a most dteastrons effect upon shoe shoemanufacturers shOfmaaatacturen shoemanufacturers >
manufacturers for la many eases the
past no effort would be spared by thenew the thenew th I
new company to earn their approval approvaland
and merit success As rapidly ae pos possible posible poessible ¬
sible manufacturers were brought to toone toone toone
one common plane in their theirUons transac traaaacUons transactions ¬
Uons wltJ > the company so that each erehcould eachcould earrckcould
could proceed p with perfect aaeuranee aaeuraneethat aeauraneethat araaee araaeethat
that he paid no more nor less 1 than thanhis UDhi thanhis
his hi competitor and that the benefit benefitand beaefttAand beaeanand
and expert eX ert service rYiee secured by his hisbusiness hisbuelDeS8 hisbusiness
business rival were always his hi for the theazktng theaaklng theasking
asking This equality in treatmentIas treatment treatmentdijtal treatJDentIas
Ias beeR and ia today one or the ear eardiaa1 cardinal
dijtal principles of the company companypolicy ClHlapespolicy COIupaDYS COIupaDYSpolicy
policyTo policy policyTo policyTo
To those WAO w who o watched the progress ptogressof Jft UM UMof
of the new company it was w soon appar apparent apparent ap apeat ¬
ent that the management Intended to tosecure toMcUre LOsecure
secure the beet whether It wax brains bratasor
or machinery Those ao + o by training trainingand trainingand raiablgan4
and experience had been particularly particularlyfitted partkularlyftUId particularlyratted
fitted to solve the many problems that thatwere thatwere thateomstan1y
were constantly COIIIJta ly presenting themselves themselveswere th themselvesa seives seiveswere lve lveWfte
were made to feel that a held heldthemselves field for a their theirbest theirbeat theirbest
best endeavors was unfolding and thatappreciation that thatappreciation thatappleclatlo
appreciation was sure BU > Invarors IDY8r ors atao ataofound alllofOUM alsofound
found hi the company a reliable patron patronfor patronfor patronfor
for their best wares but It t was ewentml ementialthat ewentmlthat eweatlaltIaat
that they should be the best for or the thecompany theCODlpaDY thecompany
company always bought wi it I expe experienced experienced ¬
rienced discrimination The t ttemhnn ttemhnnpjd lrenSmpaid eoihnn eoihnnpaid
paid to ability has been a SUITOR s JUTCr ot otIIJlll ofi
inspiration IIJlll i ration in every department t of the thecompany tIMcom therays
company com that rays work and h nas engendered engenderedthat engenderedthat Cencleredthat
that friendly internal rivalry s c > essential essentialto 8111ie1JUalis
is to the success ec es of every eY trr greet gr greetOn t o ir dertkOn ertak ertaktog
tog A AOn
On Its formation tie coir C81rPLly c apaiy pany found foundItself foundIt8eIt founditself
Itself hi possession of manufacturing manufacturingplants manuta ms nufaoturingplants < tunl tunlplaJtta
plants In different cities nd it was wasearly wasearly a5 a5retOgataed
early recognized that the higher sconesak scone econonot ecoDOmid
mid at which tile company laDed could couldDet couldnet
not be attained except t through b the cen centrattsaUon centraliSatlon < en entralbaUon
trattsaUon of Its manufacturing inter interi int interesta r rm
i ests To this end a comaUttee com comj comof cornposed
j posed of experts from each factory spent spenta 8 n t ta
a full fear ear in visiting vt < every manufac manufacturing manufactvrtD manufacturing ¬
turing < plant t of note in the United States Statesgathering Statest Statessatherlag
gathering the t data which finally resulted resultedhi
In the magnificent manufacturing mawfactu facturiD < plant plantowned plantoW1t84 plantowned
owned by the company y at Beverly BeverlyMass eVeTIJiIIaJI8 BeverlyVasa
Mass This factory has become oneof one oneof onfof
of the show places of New England Ind andengineers and andengineers andof
engineers of prominence who have visit visited visited t it ited ¬
ed It have pronounced It one of th thOnust thf thfIlJIc8t thrmart
mart plants tas the world To describe describeit deNn bto btolit
it adequately would require ulre much spare sparebut spacbut spar c cbut
but the following brief synopsis DOpIIIa of it itprominent itpromlaeat itz itzprominent
lit prominent features will give at least aslight a aslight 3urbt
slight insight Into Its It general character
WIlTED SHOE SHCE MACHINERY COS VAST PLAIT AT BEVERLY MASS WHICH EQUIPS THE FACTORIES FACTORIESOF I
OF THE KATIOKS SHOE MANUFACTURERS
ed was 138795 i tiz i35 and the capital invested investeSwas Investeaw investedwas
was w wasThe ISILeo ISILeoThe 12Sra3 > off 6M60 6M60The the
The value of the te thete tetea product uct of American Americanshoe AmericDshoe Americanshoe
shoe factories for the tea Ie M years yearsfrom yelSflOlll yearsfroni
from 38 UM to Jm skewed a gain of 1 1and 17 17a 17Rd
Rd a d 410 per cent In the five 5 years yearsfrom yearsfroat yearsfront
from UfI 19 to M B5 8 the gala WL w = i 3 andsIs and and8h
8h 1 > per cent with live C5 5 yens yet to tobe tobe tobe
be reported reportedThe reporteclThe reportedThe
The United State census figures show snowthat showthat showthat
that during the period of the companys companysexistence 1IDJ8 1IDJ8existence s sexistence
existence there was an advance ad vaaee in the thevolume thevolume thevolume
volume of shoe exports of 5W and 410 410per 4 41eper 10 10per
per cent t Imports of shoes shoeo are so in insignificant tnUlcaDt instg ¬
stg significant UlcaDt in volume as to be a negli negligible Refilib1e negligible ¬
gible b1e quantity This B means that shoes shoesproduced ahoe8produced shoesproduced
produced by American A labor ta Ameri American Americall Amencan ¬
can factories dominate the markets of oftb oCtho ofthe
tb the world A glance at the export exportfigures export1Ires exportfigures
figures 1Ires shows that the American AMe manufacturer manu manufacturer BIIhIfact1lrer ¬
facturer of shoes has s worldwide worldwidemarket worldwidemark worldwidemarket
market mark and all of this b3jt b of on n achiev achieved ¬
ed during the last decade decadeXor deca4eOI decadeNor
Nor OI fa lit this all During < tre t1 e ten yearsGOODYEAR years yearsGOODYEAR yearsI
I GOODYEAR GOODYEAR WELTER MODEL G
f
1 I GOODYEAR GOODY 4 AUTOMATIC LEVELING MACHETE
richly endowed ed the Lawrence Scientific ScientificSchool SelentdticSchool
School at Harvard CoDeee CoDeeeThe CentreThe
The machine was w at that time natural naturally ¬ I
ly in a very crude state and although It Ithas Ithas ithas
has been the subject sa ject cf r constant eonna im improvement lmPCOVemeDt ¬
provement the original principle Principleunchanged remains remainsunchanged s
unchanged the shoe was or placed over a ahorn aborn
horn on the machine and sewed theneedle the theneedle
needle passing through outsole and in insote ine
sole e so that a ridge of thread was left leftinside leftinside leftInside
inside the shoe shoeColonel shoeColonel
Colonel McKay immediately started to toimprove toilnplvve totanprvve
improve the machine He employ employed employedskilled
skilled mechanics to work ork on it itattempted and andattempted Delattempted
attempted to Introduce introd it in different differentfactories dJ I
factories but encounterjd a great deal dealof dealof dealof
of opposition and skepticism regarding regardingIts r 1DI I IcUspose
Its future It is said that he offered o ecl to todispose todispose
dispose of the machine o the shoemakers shoemak j jera
era of Lynn and allow them its exclusive exclusiveuse
use if they would pay him him 33MMv an anotFer anotter
otter which was not accepted acceptedWhite acceptedWhile acceptedWhite
White Colonel McKay had met rebuff rebuffand rebWraDd rebuffadd
aDd discouragement d ment in attempting attem to in introduce intieduce ¬
troduce troCI his machine mad ne the public publictt neces necessity noesSlty ¬
sity tt was such that manufacturers were wereobliged I Iobliged
obliged to immediately take it up but batColonel
Colonel McKay was still embarrassed em by bylack bylack I I
lack of capital to carry on hi his rapidly rapidlyincreasing rapidly rapidlyincreasing I
increasing business b and it was at t tcane this thistone thist
tone that a system of placing machines machinesin I
in factories f which system has hasto proven proveno I
to o be the most potent factor In the np npbnildinK up upbuiJdIDIt
bnildinK of of tmost tmosthe the shoe Indust industry ray rayed was start started t ¬
ed This was the royalty system systemwhereby systemWhereby startI
whereby the machine or machine owner ownerparticipated OWJlerparttctpated ownerrparticipated
participated m in the profits accruing accru from fromthe fromthe
the use of the machine and is a system systemwhich systemwhich I
which has become an inherent t part of ofthe ofthe ofthe
the shoe industrThis industry industryThte iDdustnTb
This Tb principle dple of royalty roattypaytftg paying be became beecame beearns
came one of the greatest est forces In the thebuilding theI thebuilding
bulld building up of the successful shoe m mdwstry InI In Industry
I dwstry of today teda ax it afforded an easy easyhereby easymeans I Imeaas
means wherebY machines could b be to hibardohlpa towithout In Intt
tt fi without out entailing entailingi hardships on onufacturers ORI
I ufacturers urera who lamS halt they tbe been beento Nnto beento
to pay the actual worth of the thetesv MI
I m J tesv would idi1a liavs hav been entirely 1Ih 1Iho unabeeto n nabie
abeeto abie to o adopt them themAt th thAt thenAt
At the time t of the introduction of ofoe t Ae AeMcKay e
1 McKay 11 r8ay machine ma bane ne many y inventors were werebuoy WeleI wet e ebae I
I buoy bae in other directions dire ioos and there was wasIsooh lidsintroduced I
Isooh soo > introduced auxiliary au niry nMicMnes I1IIcbi ec In hiVnrle inI I II
I Vnrle vitiir moat of them intended t te agtet agtetfe nl4sdatjh
fe preparms the work for t tA tAma 1 h M 1 1i Kayi Kayiaewteg I
i aewteg machine ma ne in the O operadetiiiinidt operadetiiiinidti opac liOnS a ai i iI
i tending te1di the finishing of the shoe shoeit
it 1 t was not lODe before the attention attentionI
I of the trade was attracted to the m mveatfon tnWJRUOn invntion
I veatfon of a New York mechanic for fOti
i sewing soles This was the invention inventionof
of one Anguste Destouey The machine machinedid machinedkl machinedid
did not prove practicable praeti stile but Mr Mrdiaries Mrena MrCharles
ena diaries Goodyear GoodY a nephew of Charles CHartesGoodyear Cha ChatOodYfaT Charlestpodyear
Goodyear famous for his method of ofj orulnbnt ofvufdntng
j vui ulnbnt ntang rubber became be Interested Int ed in init Init 1hit
it = od < d was convinced that the principles principlesi prtnMpks125bOWD principlesshwa
i shown were thou up ulHHlwJa1ch upon B which a suc c j jee8StUl ie iecepatul
125bOWD ee8StUl machine could cottibe be built He Her
r
manufacturer of shoes was made to bear bearthe bearUte bearthe
the brunt of the Mows which oonteadteg conelMltRsSftOemach eenteadtngshoemachinery j jsnoemachinery
snoemachinery SftOemach manufacturers aimed at ateacb ateacb ateach
eacb other otherMachines otberJilachines otherMachines
Machines ha use In factories were werestopped werestopped werestopped
stopped by means of Injunctions dam damage damase damage ¬
age suits were entered and litigation litigationwas
was very general a cotMttttea that thatindustry tbatgnawed thatgnawed
gnawed at tile very vitals ot Ole shoe shoeDd1l8t1y shoeindustry
industry and which was relieved only onlythrough Onlythrough onlytough
through the formation oC the United UnitedShoe UnitedShoe UnitedShoe
Shoe Machinery Company ta UM UMConceived JIHCoocetTecl 11111 11111Conceived
Conceived as it was at a time when whenthe whenthe whenthe
the hand of every man interested lB Inthe in lathe
the manufacture and sale of o shoe s oe ma machinery 111eblnery machinery ¬
I
chinery seemed to be raised ral ed against againsthte
his competitors the United d Shot Ma Machinery X Machinery ¬ I
chinery Company DY brought together by bypurchase bypurclaaM bypurchase
purchase all the important concerns concernsmaking concernsmaking i imaking
making this class of machinery No Nostory No8tery Nostory
story of shoe or shoenmking would wouldbe
be complete without some mention of ofthis otthis ofthis
this remarkable rrgrafixation With Withits Withits Ith IthIts
its formation there carne a cessation cessationof
of the almost constant coa taJit litigation and andintense andInteaR andIntense
intense bitterness it engendered and andthe andthe andthe
the energies of those who had been beenthrowing teenthrowing beenthrowing
throwing in the way of their competi competitors competitors competitors ¬
tors every Impediment imped nt that could co ld re retard re retard retard ¬
tard their success this affecting ad adversely adTersely adversely ¬
versely the entire trade joined under underone erODe underone
one harmonious IIII13 management meat in the theendeavor theendeayor theendeavor
endeavor to reach the goal which each eachhad eaehhad eachhad
had in mind and which could be at attained attained ¬
tained only through the highest de development developinent ¬
velopment of t the Industry as a awhole 3who1 awhole
whole wholeThe wholeThe
The editor of one of the largest and andeldest andoldest
eldest Gl eat boot and shoe trade papers paperssaid paperssaid
said recently in i commenting on the thectranges theCh
cl ctranges an anges eIi ta the shoe ho roanuxaetuTins
industry il1duattyor
or I suppose that every corporation corporationwith corporatlouwith
with sufficient s capital and power po er to toAccomplish toJ toaccomplish
Accomplish J lbsb any great undertaking undertakingwill
will always 1 be the object of a certain certainamount certainamouat e eamounsuspicion
amounsuspicion amount of o suspicion and abuse fromthose from fromthose fromthose
those who are pessimistically pes in inclined laeltlled indined ¬
dined and the United U ted Shoe Machinery MachineryCompany XacbJneryCompany MachineryCompany
Company was w certainly no exception exceptionin
in this rule for in it tt earlier earlierdiys earlierdrys
diys few companies have been beenmore beenmore
more grosely maligned or so un unreasonably UKrNsoaably inroesotaably
reasonably assailed 1e4 amone n irvone ene how however however however ¬
ever who reviews impartially the therecord
record of happenings that Immediate Immediately ¬
ly preceded the formation of this com company co oempang ¬
pang and these th e which have transpired transpiredin
in the succeeding years cannot be beotherwise beotherwise
otherwise than surprised at the won wonderful wonderful wonderful ¬
derful change and improvement that thathave thathave
have taken place p1a in conditions af affectirK afffCtiTa alfectirg
fectirK ffCtiTa the manufacture of 1 shoes as asthe asthe asthe
the plans of those Cho vho directed ilts altsi iltsaffair ts tsaffairs
i affairs have been unfolded unfoldedMaufacturers untoldedMautactutfrs unfoldedMaufacturers
Maufacturers everywhere eerYwh re were w re early earlyniade earlynlad earlyniade
niade o focT that whatever wbte r the atti attitude attitude attitude ¬
tude of o Individuals bad bttu in the t e
H
I iv4gritude of the operation car carrf
rf 1 on wituin wit in its walls wallsThere wanThere wallsThere
There are seventeen acres of floor flooriare ftooraCe doorpace
pace aCe and a walk through the work workjm workof workms
jm ms of the factory fact means six miles milesrhree milesree milesitree
rhree ree thousand fivundred five hundred people are arerployed arenployed arerpioyed
rployed in the factory The weekly weeklyi weeklyges
i ges es exceed ex fiftyfive > thousand dotF dot dotss doI doIr
ss r In the stock side k room eighty thons thonsdifferent thettsdifferent
different parts of machines are areurcd areh areti
urcd h nd Machines to the number of thouaI four four1tmdred fourllndred fourundted
tmdred and fifty a week are shipped shippedu
u 1 wenty thousand machines a year yearJ
J c at Each machine performs the thenric theork theork
ork of from one to a dozen men menOne JDeILOnf menOne
One hundred and twentyve twenty e thousand thousandounds thoueaaclv
ounds v finds of steel a week is c c < nsnnted The Thejjitdry Theu Theuadry
jjitdry u dry produces Ud thirty tons of castings castingsday ca castingsday tlJlp tlJlpclay
day The i e Drop Forge Yo I Department Departmentlke > epartmentiikes
iikes lke sixty thousand pieces a weekT weekThe week weekThe
The T consideration of the officers of ofhe ote
he e company for the comfort of the em employes eIIIo emoyes ¬
ployes o oyes es is demonstrated by the perfect perfectAppointment MIfectppolntmeDt perfectappointment
Appointment and the provtetons pco for or the thehealth tlt1 tlt1ealth theiealth
health happtoess and safety of the em emlioyes emoyes
lioyes oyes Under the auspices of the com comny comny comny
ny the employes have savings bank banknd baakld beaknd elDl
nd insurance facilities The company companyprovides coaarprotde companyprovides
provides a country county dub a gum gunf gunl gunand dub dubind I I1nd
and opportunities opportunitiesThe for coopecanve farm farming tarJII1 f ¬
ing irr l rr The Therte salaries and wages paid are arehisi arell
hisi ll rrd L The conditions for r the help p are areideal areI aretpoD areiced
ideal idealUpon iced I
Upon the organization tloa of the aH sited Lt4dShoe sitedShoe d dShoe
Shoe Machinery Company a new nth oliy oliywas O ywas y ywas
was inaugurated New machines werenot were werenot werenot
not allowed to stand because bete they theyseemed theyIIeemed theyseemed
seemed to be doing doI perfect work A AstafC A8ta4 Astaff
staff of inventors was marshaled and andhas aDdbaA andhas
has since been maintained These in inventors 11Ienters InentorS ¬
enters are charged with the task of ofdi oCd ofdisplacing
di d displacing pacmg obsolete machines and im improving tMpIOIiRr heproving ¬
proving machines whiott whl are far fromob from fromobsolete fromoIJ
obsolete ob olete A new invention tested and andfound aIMItOIIDcI andfound
found practical is instantly Installedupon installed installedupon III5tIhdupoR
upon the initiative of the United Shoe ShoeMachinery Shoe1IIacbInerY Shoe3daehhrory
Machinery Company Thus the shoe shoemanufacturer shoemaDutacturer shoemanufacture
manufacturer finds huweJf always alwaysequipped alwaysequtpped alwaysequipped
equipped with the latest t devices for per perfect perfect perfect ¬
fect work workThe workThe workThe
The shoe manufacturer h Ia bIB dealings dealingswith c1eliDgswttk dealingswith
with the United Shoe Machinery Com Company CoIbJMUIr Cor Corpely ¬
pany is fortunate in that he doe nothave not nothave ROthave
have to tie up hte capital by the pr prchase IMe perchase
chase of his machines ID Instead he pays paystor PAYStor paysthe
tor the use of otue the machine a certainicmali certain certainfrom
smaJI sum on each sloe sI JDAJ mae Qr buys buystnHD buysfrom
from the company furnishing CJtJII the machine ma machine JIUicI ¬
chine certain findings essential to its itsoperation Jtsoperation itsoperation
operation This system has resulted re in inthe Inthe
the furnishing of a better service and andequipment Belequipment andequipment
equipment year by year at a constaiitly constaiitlydtattatehinc COIaEKDt1dtmbdshlng coeetantldiminishing
diminishing expense to the Bees of the themachines themach1De8 themachines
machines The royalties have never neverbeen DeTerbeen neverbeen
been increased by b the company aid the therates therates
rates are now lower than at the time thecompany the thecompany I
company was organised The average averageroyalty avera averageroyalty e eroyalt
royalty accruing to the company for all allclasses allclasses aJlelas8es
classes of o shoes is less than two and twothirds two twothirds tWOI tWOIthirds
thirds cents < nt > per pair and then covers coversthe covertthe I
the entire cost of mau manufacturing faetming the themachines I
machines and supplies improvements improvementsand
and maintenance and administration admlDistraUonMore administrationMore administrationMore
More shoes and better shoes are turned tulDedowt turnedout
1 out by the machines at a smaller priceThe price priceThe pcieeThe
The royalty system which has proved provedi
I i so advantageous advAta to the shoe manufac manufacturer manufacI manufacturer ¬
turer was not devised Ited by the United UnitedShoe L1nltedShoe unitedShoe
I Shoe Machinery Company The royalty royaltysystem roltyi
system and the system of leases have bvebeen havebeen
i 1 been in vogue with e very 8ftQ > successful successfulmaker uccessrulJllSK successfulmaker
maker JllSK of shoe machinery sine since the time timeof timeof
10 of Gordon McKay JI K7 and shoe nianufacturetr manufac manufacturers DUUlutac1 DUUlutac1hirei
> turers are on record hi its favor as asagatmt asthatofpu asagainst
against that thatofpu thatofpuThe of purchase purchaseThe
The existence eftCe of the United Shoe Xa Xachmery Xadaiaery Macbinet
chmery y Company extending over aperiod a ai aperiod
i period of eleven 01 11 years has been beenmarked beenmarked beenmarked
marked by striking prosperity In the en entire entire entire ¬
tire shoe industry of the United States StatesThe StatesThe StatesThe
The Federal Government is authority for forstatistics Cortatisties forstatistics
statistics > which tell the story storyIn stOryIn storyIn
In 1 1 the volume < cf f business of the theIndustry theIndustry tindustry
Industry in the United States aggregated aggregatedt22Q6492SSro aggregatedOO
t22Q6492SSro r eiL3Sfe OO the number of people em employed employ employed ¬
ployed ploy was 13S333 13 i ana 8 U Ur > capitalisation capitalisationIn
was Is Isten Lt LtIn
In 1900 1300was ten veers y years1L06 later the volume m of ofbusiness ofu ofbusiness
business was UiiNI S S this a6O 9SaLv s1 the number of ofpeople orpeople ofpeople
people employed was 11Ot16a 14 1 and the thecapitalization theeapltalisatlon thecapitalization
capitalization of the industry try was m m819223ec 11Sltmoo
819223ec shearing sho an Increase 1ft m capital capitalinvested capitalInySt4d capitalinvested
invested of but 4 and Stt per cent centDuring centDuriD centDuring
During DuriD the first five years of the ex oxissten existence exist ¬
issten istence ist c Q of the company the growth lIO wtb in incapital InI incapital
capital CApital was 22 and 7 710 per cent In Inthe IAthe Inthe
I the year Ito the number 1IIber of concerns concernmanufacturing concernsmanufacturing CiOIICerD6mBnutet
manufacturing mBnutet shoes m In the countrywas country countrywas coaatrYI
was AS lSte the output in pairs was 3i 3ilia 3111edi >
I 11edi 1 lia gi the e wtome 1D of business was B Blti 3 3lff455 e e1E466A
1E466A lff455 lti the t number of people employ em
In n which hich the United Shoe Machinery MaciiseryCompany MachineryCompany
Company has operated the labor of the tbeIndustry I
Industry try has proftedhas profited hasTINA TINA The great eattern eat sys system system ¬ l
tem of machinery has been a boon boonWages boolLW boonWages
W Wages es are higher than they were tenyears ten tenyears tenJUS
years ago and tbe conditions ODCI of theworkmen the theworkmen theworkmen
workmen are vastly Improved ImprovedThe haprovedThe improvedThe
The Massachusetts CommbjEton on ontbe ORthe cathe
the cost of living ta its report Just Justpublished justpublished jUIItpub1tsbecl
published observes observesThis observesThis ervesThis
This industry is one of the few ew great greatlines greatlines I IedoC
lines of industrial enterprises in
= edoC e the tbeUnited theUnited
United States ta which the tileot trust form formof formof
of control has not made headway headwayMODERN headwayMODERN I I110DERN
MODERN SHOEMAKING SHQEMAKINGWonderful SHOEMAKINGWoliderful I IVonderful
s i
Wonderful Machinery Shown InBerberich In InBerberich
Iii IiiBerberich i
Berberich Exhibit ExhibitThe The Goodyear Good Goodyear Goodyear ¬
year Welt System SystemThe
I
The machines shown 8 ta the Berber Berberich BerberJell Berbericr ¬
Jell exhibit form one of the moat tater tateresttek interestI
j
esttek estI groups Imaginable and many manyromaitments manycompliments
I
compliments tmebI brave been paid to this thtefirm tit thisdrat i
firm on tbe enterprise which could couldconceive couldetTe couldreactive
I
conceive etTe and carry to so so auccecoful suceeeoelulCODrlusion a aconclusion aconclusion
conclusion so ambitious an undertaking undertakingIt 1Iftde 1IftdeIt
It is also a sterling testimonial to the thecharacter thecharacter J
character of the Craddoefc shoe for formen formea formen
men for the inmost rcceiMicu reeem es of the shoe shoeare shoe1aIcI shoeare
are laid noon for critical hnpeetton lu eetloA and andrepresentatives adr andrepresentatives
r representatives tstiVilS from the Craddock CraddockTerry CraddockTerry CraddochTe
Terry Te rr factoryj te LynchburR L II VL V are arecresmt aregrant
grant 1 t to o uiswnr answer er any aJvthfo questions regard regardInic regardtrig aftl
trig the quality of t the materials used usedor usedor J Jor
or the details of the wonderful eil GoodyearreIt Goodyear GoodyearYett 1 1llt
Yett llt System emolwed eDQ tved in making maki them thems tbecn1 tbecn1s them1s
1s s a shoe is made et either her a comfortor comfortora
i ia
a torment In its maaofitcturlni tarDIt process processtbe taocessthe I Itbe
tbe following brief details reemrdine no the thecAOe theC4tructto1 thecan3toctlai
C4tructto1 cAOe ructton of a Goodyear Welt shoe shoeWM ewill shoewill
WM will interest not only the thousands Js who whohave whohave ho hoDaye
have already visited the exkJMt 1dIJIt but butdose butwho butthose
those who are stint to do so before ore Its ItsdGe Itsclose
dose dosein dGeIn closeIn
in the evolution of a Goodyear Welt Weltihoe Wetthe Welttnoe
ihoe tnoe from that oBbryonic stale e te which whichit
it is Umere mere leather aa R4 thread tltr to that thatperfect thatptrfect thatperfect
perfect product which w ida hs contributed contributedso oo tdWted I Iso
so much to the comfort of the world it itordinarily itordinarily I IorilDarily
ordinarily passes through one hundred fitndredand hundredand I
and six different c1tflc Jlt pairs of hands > peIS and is isobliged isobliged I
obliged ed to conform to the requirements raouirementsof
of fifityefaht fin vckht different dtr naaehteee each eachi
T erforrolnsr > with unyielding uJIT accuracy uracy the thevarious thevarious I
various operations for which they were weredesigned weredesigned Ore
designed designedIn I
In the beginning the different parts partsforming parisConning partsforming
forming the shoe upper are cut from fromarefulrr tlOlllatetulk fromarefuulk
arefulrr selected leather the edges edgescarefully edgescarefully I
earefuHy carefully finished ftDl bedi the t e linings > and vari various variovs various ¬
ous stays prepared and the whole carofuldy care carefully CU6j ¬
fully stitched together the eyelets eyeletsthrough i
through which the shoe is laced are set setta setin I IIn
In position and the whole is ready to tobe thbe i
be placed over the woofiea last which whichdetermines wnfchdetermines wlddidetennines
determines the thebottom thebottoma sse e aad shape of the theshoe theshoe I
shoe To the thebeen bottom ofthis of this last there therebits therehKs therehas
bits already been tacked by 1 y the United UnitedShoe UnitedShoe
Shoe Machinery Mach ry Company C insole Tack Tackiner TaekI Tacking
iner I Machine an 0 insole which is just the theshape thedrape
shape of the bottom of the last Thisinsole This Thisinsole ThisiD80le
insole has been Jk previously ioa prepared by byhaving b byhaving
having bavlnga a little slit cut along theedge theedgeon the edge edgeon OOgoon
on a slight bevel toward the center centerAnother CeRsleTnether centerAnother
Another little silt it inside the first one oneand ODEaad oneand
and ort the opposite slant is cut eat and andthe andtile andthe
the two turned turn outward tward so that they theystand theystand i istand
stand at right angles t te the face of the theinsole theInsole i iIncooIe
insole The toe box which gives per permanent perJDlLDent permanent ¬
manent form to the tee of a shoe is isput isput isput
put in pla place coat ttr with a peculiar peculiarelastic peculiarelastic i ielastic
elastic Rum m by y the e Rex B Ben x Toe Com Company Compan Cornpany
pany pan Machine achlne The operator now placES plaorstbe placESthe pia piathe es ese
the e upper on the last so that every seam seamcomes eamcomes seamcarves
comes in just the position 1OfiIiit a designed and anda
f a tack driven part way in by the Hex HexAssembling R HexASsenibiln x xA88embDw
Assembling Machine I e8lDe twirls it in position positionat po ltion ltionat
at the heel Nw w comes ODe of the mrst mrstimportant mrstimportant mistimportant
important operations oPenl operatiarrthe 8lllUle the Rex Pulling FullingOver PullingOver Pul1ingOyer
Over Machine Mac bte draws dra 8 the leather leathersmoothlv leathfrsmoothI leathersaootbIr
smoothlv around the last the operatoradjusts operator operatoradjusts o ator atorjIIeCS
adjusts jIIeCS the e machine so that every seam seamta seambr
ta the theup upper a lies at just the exact po position p0stlon ¬ j
sition intended A second pressure en
the foot le lever ter of the machine and a ti two twoStacks tWOtacIu twotacks
Stacks tacks driven on each side of the toe toebold toebold toebold
bold theupper the upper upper at that point securely securelyta aunlIn sec urea ureaIii
ta place The C Coaaol Consolidated idatecl ted Hand HandMetbod BandMethod
1 Method Lasting La Machine now draws drawseach drawseach dra cs cseach
each portion of the upper securely 8eur ly down downto do n nto
to tbe last Ia8t taking < the stretch from fro the theleather theteatbet theleather
leather and tacks driven automatically automaticallybut utomat1callYI
but part part way In bold it there The too tooportion tQ6portioD
I portion fc smoothly crrawn around this thispart thisI thispart
part of the shoe by the ingenious United UnitedShoe Lnit LnitShoe UnitedShoe
Shoe Machinery Companys Ii Lasting Ma MaI MachiDe l4 r rchine
I I chine No a L These operations are most mostcarefnBy mostcaret mostcarduHy
carefnBy caret performed perf r1DCCL and the lasts a are arenot aleDOt e enot
not removed until the shoe 8h is finished finishedso i
so Craooock Shoes hold their shape andare and andare andare
are comfortable they are not drawn drawntightly dra drawntightly n ntightlY
tightly ta on one dace r lace and loosely in an another al alother asother ¬
other The Her Re Upper Trimming Ma Machine Machine MaehtDe ¬
chine now trims off all tbe surplus parts partsof partot partsof
of the shoe upper and the Goodyear In Insole Inc Insole ¬
sole Tack Pulling Machine withdraws withdrawsthe itbdraasthe
the tacks which held the insole to tot the thelast theJaat e elast u
last The shoe is now ready to receive receivethe r e p pthe c cthe
the welt which is a narrow strip of ofprepared otprepared ofprepared
prepared leatho sewed along tbe edge edjreof edgpof edgeof
of the shoe beginning DniDg where the he h beet beetis < Pl Plis L Li
is placed and ending at the same spot spoton spiton pJt pJtOn
on the opposite oppo ite edge This welt te sewed sew sewed sewed ¬
ed from inside the lip of the insole and andi an andthe l lthe
i the curved needle passed through thelip the thelip theUp
lip shoe upper and welt uniting all allthree allthree altthree
three securely and allowing the welt to toprotrude toprotru toprotrude
protrude e outward from the edge of theshoe the thehoe thehoe
shoe hoe The needle in making this t stitcn stitcndoes atitcndoes titeadOM
does not go inside o or the shoe but butpasses butonlf butrases
passes through only a portion of the theinsole theiulfOlo theitnaole
insole and as the tacks which weredriven were weredriven weredriven
driven but part way In in lasting are arewithdrawn arewltbdraWII arewithdrawn
withdrawn tile shoe a left perfectly perfectlysmooth perfectlymtOOtb perfectlysmooth
smooth Inside This part of the work workwas wfJrkwaa workwas
was formerly one of the most mo t difSeultand difficult difficultand 4tif lt ltand
and laborious I boriou tasks In shoemaking As Asit AMit Asit
it was performed entirely by b band the thedrawing thedaw thedrawing
drawing daw of each stitch depending upon uponthe UIK uponthe > J1 J1tlw
the strength and mod of tie workman workmanit
it is is of course obvious that Stitcheswere stitches stitcheswere titheswete
were oftentimes of different length I ngtla and andtirawn andrwn andtrawn
tirawn rwn with different dift t tensions It is issurprising issurp issurprising
surprising surp how quickly and easily easiI the the7ork thvork tl c cwork
work is done on the Goodyear WeltSewing Welt WeltSewing WeltSefn
Sewing Machine Kae Model G This famousmachine famous famousmachine nmo > us usJaachine
machine has been the leading factor inUr in intti intl1
tti Ur great revolution that has taken takenplace tlkenplace takenplace
place ta shoe manufacturing manula < turmg Its wore worishould wor
should be carefully noted all stitches stitchesare 1
are ar of equal length and measured me ed auto automatically aut autllatkally autouaUcally ¬
matically the strong linen thread is isthoroughly isthoroughly
thoroughly waxed and drawn evenly even evenand
and tightly tlyp for the machine De nevertiresit never neveri nevertireaIt
i tireaIt tires h draws tbe thread as a strongly in
the t hf evening as a s ta the morning morni Everyrevolution Every Evervrevolution
revolution of the shuttle ahut forms forms a lock locklitch 1ktitch locktitch
titch of great strength which holdsthe holds holdsThe
The 1 h welt upper Del insole
securely together to together to toether ¬
gether getherThe getherThe ether etherI
I The Goodyear Universal Ul Tnseain Trim Trimming Trimmlbg Trimicing
ming Machine now trims the surplusportion surplus surplusportion SU lus lusJortloD
portion of the welt and upper smoothly smoothvtVHt I r rdown
down Qn to the Stitches aDd the Goodyear Goodyeaelt
tVHt j welt elt Beater and Slasher forces for th thwelt il il1elt hwelt >
welt to stand out evenly from the r fj rdt1 d dI
I of r the shoe The Goodyear Shank W v We
Skiver thins on 0 the welt at t The be shank shankI shamnand
I and a specially prepared materialspread material materiali
i spread over 0 the insole to form a apa partis rti rticushlon
i ushton for the foot The fgef entire bottom Cii
f the shoe Is now coated with rubbr rubbrj
j I cement from the Star Cementing Jla Jlai la laj
i chine and the heavy outsole made fro i ithe
the most carefully tanned selected sol soleather >
leather the rough or flesh fte side of whi whinas hi
has been coated with cement menl is moulded mouldedi
i into shape and pressed securely Iy intoi into intoposition iftroIllOSition
i position by the Goodyear Improved < l
t Twin Sole Laying Machine where it is isallowed i iI s sallowed
allowed to remain a sufficient suft cieDt time for forthe forthe forthe
the cement to set The next operation t
I Is that of trimming the sole and we weso weso
so that they protude a uniform distanfromthe distant distantfromthe dietanfrom
fromthe from the edge of the shoe s giving vtuc shap
shah I to the sole Simultaneously with th thI t r rI
I rounding operation tbe machine mac lDe cuts a
brittle little channel cbaD or slit along aJon the edge of ofthe n r i
the outside in much the same manner manneras
as tbe work was done on the insc inscThis ins insclThis I Ift
I This ft portion of the work was formerly formerlya fnrmei iy iya
a very difficult and costly costlyoprrs operation ioa by O Or
hand r but Pnenui simplicity itself when n
te performed on this ma machine machine ¬
chine The rounding operation shupiv shupivtachMftes s Upl UpltlIat
includes that portion n of the shot twhirl to towhich t twbIcIa
which 11M th welt ti has been sewed icav icavtag lea leaIng lealug
tag the outside at the heel without t a atension JteIBIon atension
tension This portion is nut nailed nailedthe + o othe > Jthe
the shoe on the Loose Xailinp ailing Machine Machinefrom MachiDfrom Machinfrom
from which small brass nails automat automatically auton at atlon t ticaJl7 ¬
lon ically ly driven driv D and spaced are clinched clinchedagainst c clinchedagainst D < hj hjapiDst
against tbe steel heel of the last Th Thsurplus Tbmanplus r rMUplus
surplus manplusportion portion of the leather is th tht thttrimmed < i itrimmed 1trimmed
trimmed off on the Heel Seat Rounding
3 Machine and the little channel cut by 0 0tbe
the knife of the Rough Rounding Mi Michine M Mch Nschine
chine ch is turned up so as to leave th thchannel t thchannel h hchannel
channel open for the little Goodyear GoodrenrUniversal Good GoodyearUniversal e1 e1Univenl
Universal Channel Opening Machine Machinewhich Machinewhich ne <
which a little wheel turning l very rap rapid rapjIy rapidly < i ily
ly Ias the lip smoothly back The out outsole ou t
sole te now sewed to the w welt it Thi Thisoperation Thioperation
operation opera OD Is performed on the Goodyear GoodyearOutsole G odY < t
Outsole Rapid Lockstitch Machm Machmwhich XachmvWelt Machinwhich
which te very similar ta operation to the theGoodyear th thGoodyear t <
= vWelt
Goodyear Welt Sewing Machine used in issewing insowing
sowing the welt to the shoe The stitch stitchhowever stitchhowever
however is finer and extends from he hechannel hfciIaDDel hechannel
channel which was cut for it to th thupper thIIJIPer tha thside
upper side of t the welt where it shows showsafter showsafter
be a shown shownkOCkssthh
after a the shoe has been finished TT TTlockstitch <
kOCkssthh
lockstitch formed by this machine m is n nmo aJBOiIt 3moat
mo moat t durable one using a thoroughly thoroughlywaxed tborougbJywaxed thoroughlywaxed
waxed thread it holds the outsole sectrely s scirely s sC
cirely C relY in place even after the connect connecting cgpnectiag nnecT nnecTstItcbea ¬
ing stitches have ve been worn off It Isone is isoae IsOfte
one of the most imnprtant imR img > > prtant rtant machines in intbe inn inthe
the shoemaking process In n cwms oeuactioa oeuactioawith ction ctionwith
with this machine there to also = a Bob Bobbta b
bin Winder which winds the bobbin use UkIII u ± J Jin 1 1to
in the rotary shuttle of the machin machinA mach machA maehilta maehiltaA
A eoattag eoa of cement Is now applied jnaide in inside inside ¬
side the channel clIaD eI just us used d ta stitching stitchinKand stftc stftcaDd stitchingand
and titter ter it has been allowed to proW protby proWerJy properly >
erJy s tile lip is smoothly laid downby down 001tnby
by the Goodyear Channel Laying Ma Machine ¬ 1 1chine
chine chineThe chineThe
The next operation is that of leveling levelingwhich levftfngwbie levelingwhich
which te performed on the Actomatic AutomaticSole ActomaticSale ActomaticSole
Sole leveling leve Machine one of the most moytinteresting m miIt mostintsestlne
interesting iIt used In the shoemaking shoemakinKprocess shoemakingprocess ing ingIt
process It is a double machine ant andove antbr
br Y Its e a vibrating roll passes ove ovethe ovethe oveth
the th e esure sole of the shoe under r heavy heaot heaotpres y pres pressure IJIPSSUft pressure esP esPsole ¬
sure sureeh soleso soof covering g eh ehshank every meand undeportion undeportionr portion of the theI thpfI01e h hesP
shankme
I sole and n shank and after a complet completingIts completlax et etiugmp ¬
ingIts lax iugmp lL opera operation tlon the shoe Is automat automatically automatrally utomattcaDy lito ¬
rally dropped from its position beneath beneaththe beneaththe beneaththe
the roll It removes every possibility poulbilUyor
1 of unevenness In the bottom of the shoe shoeTbe shoeThe shoeThe
The shoe now receives its heeL which whichwith whichwttla whichwith
with the exception of the top lift Jift bas hasalreadv basSllres basalready
already Sllres been prepared It is secured in inplace inplace inplace
place by oy the American Lightning LIsh Heal Heling H Healing t tlag
ing Machine by means of which all the theheel th thbeoeI tinheel
heel nails are driven at one time and andclinched andd1nehed andclinched
clinched Inside the shoe The heads ot otthe 0the ofthe
the nails are left protruding o K ue1i above the theheel thei theheel
heel i so as to retain the top lift which whichte
is also pressed into place en this ma machine maI machine ¬
I chine As it is pressed p down over r tire tireheads th4of thebeads
heads of the nails they do not show on ontbe ontb onthe
the surface of the top HftThe lift IftThe liftThe
The next machine drives the small smal1pieces smallpieces smsllpieces
pieces of brass or other oth r metal which whichprotect whichp whichprotect
protect p ect the top lift from wear and andwhich anrlwhich andwhich
which Are called slugs This Is don donby donb donby
by b the Universal UDtv 1 Slugging S1ug ng Machine MachinThev lachlnTIMV MachineThey
They are accurately placed pla at any de desired desired > ¬ I
sired number num r the machine automatical automaticalare
17 l driving drkID and t1Jtt cutting ng them 0 all thf thes >
are drawn fror a continuous cord or ori orwire
i wire The top ft t which was accurate accurately > ¬
ly placed on in the HeeHn Machine also alsojierves alsor IS
r jierves Ifrves + as a guard for the lltima lire HrelTrimming HfOTTrirmrtDJ lireTninmiing
Trimming Machine achinf in cinch a rapid rapidrevolving rapidremoving
revolving re olvf knife cuts away al the rough roughend rou roughand h hnd
end nd surplus portions of the leathererr leather leatheriravinsr 1foath r rIin
iravinsr err Iin in the e f edge < lgt ge of the heel smooth smoothwith smoothith smoothwith
with ith the exact contour intended T Til Tiltaet Tt n nIK >
taet t IK iies S of tire I role e are now trimmed on onts ont ontt
ts t tt Mf Modei fnd > d i A t Edie Trimming Ma Machtae Machine 11 11hiDe
hiDe and nd a series of Tndentatkns tatiwul tatk as mad madralong mada madalong
along a e surface of the th welt bwe bwete bw bMwt > e elite
lite t sti < e ex do at iv the shoe t s much muchmore mU mmitmore < f fmore
more plesrfnsr pI 3 appearance arIC and finish finishihte fnlsshhis
his work is done on a the Goedyear r Weir WeirIndenting WeltIndenttnc LCeIIndenting
Indenting and burnishing Machine MachtoeThe MachineThe hlDe hlDeTheo8hoe
The Theo8hoe shoe from this point passes through througha
a variety V8t ItP of operations o raUons varying with the thefactories thefactGdes thefactories
factories In which they th y are made in intending tntemHa Intending ¬
tending to bring blln every portion p rtloa to the thehighest
highest and most m durable flnifth After Afterall Anlin Afterall
all is completed the last which has hasi hashelm
i helm > een allowed to remain in the shoe is isvitndYawn 1 1wlthdswn isvItbdw
vitndYawn swn and the final dressing and andrinishins andiA1shtD andtnishing
rinishins is administered admilll tt > r so that the theshoe thehoe theshoe
shoe stand forth a perfect product productIn p uct uctIn
In very portion of the world it will willne wiUbe willhe
ne fetnd f s nd that whrev h r the hf highest highestde highestrade
rade de of footwear is made this thteprocess thisprrsee q qTOCt >
process TOCt a and the same m cure < 11fS s are em employed ¬ i iploed t
ploys varying only in unimportant de details M MraUs d dtails ¬
tails and that the Goodyear Welt Shoe Shoes
i s eateeree t1 ntd < th the highest bigh t typ t f of foot footvrar fOOrar
vrar rar In appearance P nlncf comfort and wear wearthe weart wearthe
the t world has ever known ImowRAdY Adv
ImowRAdYi i
r

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