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THE WASHINGTON TBIES. SUNDAY, SEPTENffiER 20, 1914.
; Tailor-Made Effects a New Demand - 0 Fashion for fh Fall Season HH'-i ar2rr3aaaV E-lfl '-H - KLMk:' P3a y-J-- vl . 1 r Jl, i B tTPlI afetfl'l3i EHaaaV niaaaaaaaaaaaaC "f , - . -V' -B NBPm f?df itWm M--m w "5. JHHiH MHB" r l . .-T i V T T 7ft -M. '- WBSJU IV - vs- 7 Jrr.- 3HK Bl'TV ' 1. H.'W l m-TT '- TS BH W W . S lHBHBT fA '"j pgPMu ... . -.-r rap-,:- It ;; :.Mmm:;M3 m life ; 4pl wHh 4 - i i B i-utacs are no longer mousey a iiressier one. what Is smarter than a they are seml-flttlnF. They fol- ' tailored estee of linen or pique? One- Ion almost to a letter the rules ( of the newest of these.has patch pockets that are laid down for the lines of frocke. lyinp smoothly over the bust and drawn sniiKly n at the waist. rIv j Inc a very decided suggestion of the fisure outline. The surplice effect In waists, as in dresses, offers a variety of the new mode, the crosa-oier ends' In mannish effect and a blc round sailor collar. The front Is trimmed v?1"- .nine sort of fancy buttons over the practical fastening of snap fasteners, which are unusually satisfactory when it comes to a matter of washing. The girl who Is fond of the complete araun tiRntly when the fitted appear- eneci or lne colar aml cuff m j ance is desired or left loose and fluffy I rejoice In the new fall sets of different Buttoned Boots for Both Men and Women This Fall OVP feet are srettinp handsomer than ever, -at leaM oin fotJ neat Jfv pecoro'P;: more and more n. thin:? of beJuty those of us'wrro'aTe women 'or style demands It. First Qf ajl. the trend of style in th skirts of dresses and suits, invorvin?! tire Kattr rather than leSF display of the fetandan Jiles. has Etimiilated the demand for BUractive shoes of all types. Then borne parts of the country hae pone dancing mad and this craze has had more than anything else to do with the bringing in of novel and striking Btyles. The Buttoned Vogue. In line with this demand for smart effects comes the fall vogue of the fcuttoned boot, a tvpe of shoe that 5dv"s an inimitable trlmness to the foot and ankle and adds the right tonch of chic to an costume. Even -In low shoes the buttcn and simu lated button effects hae the best Htyle value. Long narrow, slender linvs- prevail 5n the fall fashions, with vlam toes preferred and the slender heel the Cuban Louis or the modified Loui-s Tnost stLsh. One secret of success in selecting these stjles that tend awav from the normal thape of th foot i to get sufflripnt brearith. .Medium round toes and medium vamps have considerable lt value in manv pa-rts of the rountr. The Color Fad. Striking combina.ions and colorings, all within the lmit of good taste, form the ke note of the footwear Ftyles this Fea-on. Shlnv leather patent leather forri the vamn. &boe wMch is a delightfully con tranng upper of hr"ade. or plain rioth in ton" to mafli the rn't'jm'. In grav or tan suedt. In low--jt mod rls too, this, same linht .lr trn dency prevails. Turned soles axe in high -t I- ri Wand f"r dressv -is-e, .-in-- thf- fol low the ediot of lightness ard diri T'fti that naturall follows the color vogue and thp noeIt of effect in dp slrn elt"d i-olrs. to be sure. ar t'il' tc thin- for practical wr.ir. The New Colonials. For 'arji f?U s';rt wear is well Cs f" ''e-. th- Colonial is Hrvj ITiiCh n faor r rhi fotntr a little bf different frrp tl-- ,nc'-l of last Fa?on. Euckley a ( bing left off and ornaments, when upd t all. ar- ery frail. Many of the n"i ef'-ts -how orrbinations of maK-ris-ls and of col nrs 1 it as buttoned bor.ts do Pat er" lea'hrr with rhamoasro r 'awn a cr .-mart harmmn f-ncp f t-.r ornaments, strlk-ng -t1- t- in r er'a handal straps l'l " to rrikf the t'olom?! rharnitijh tl.'fer- The Castle pump, so-called, alontf with many dainty buttoned sandal ef-" fects, has been found best adapted to dancinig. The feature of ths pump is the wide ankle strap of material like the upper usually brocade that con ceals a close-holding piece of elastic .and fastens on the side under an orna ment. The fastening is the unique and practical part, a snap fastener concealed under the broad tab of th strap, which snaps it quickly 10 the foot, snaps it oft again and holds firm ly during the dance. What Paris Favors. In Pans, where extreme styles make their first appearance, the sandal slipper and other low-cut effects are meeting with approval. One of these, a buttoned strap sandal, has a bracelet arap around th ankle with small orna mental buckles, the bracelet and the buttoned straps assuring a perfect fit across the foot Lveninj slippers that are richl embroidered is another Paris note. Silver and crystal beadB with rhinestones that coer the toe and run around the quarter in a pair of black satin slippers show the richness with which fashionable footwear is decorated These footwear styles are olten worn with stockings to match, either in tolor or in the beaded ornamentation. Styles For Men. While the style tendency in men's footwear is not as In women's, toward extreme novelty of effect, there is evi dence of a stronger style influence than formerlj. Men. too. have suc cumbed to the dancing craze, and tblB has meant that the shops have Increased their sale of patent leather pumps and dressy boots In fact, patent leather s one of the strong items in men's fall st.vlt s. Buttoned effects Is the final w-ord In men s boot". Just in women's, whether for die&s or for everyday wear. One note of noeltv that is ouite evi dent in masfiiline footwear is the vocue for colored tops of suede or cloth. Jn fact, the Increasing demand for cloth and suede tops makes the button style mil the more fashionable, though these colored tops are found In lace shoes, too. In these romblnation Russia tan calf uppers are often found with black pat ent leather and dull leather. The English lust, whi'-h is built on 5tii.chl line, meets a high style de mand while the so-called Frnch last Is also in ogue, with its duck-bill recede toe Woman, Despondent From III Health, Dies by Gas Mrs. Catherine Morris, thirty-two. wjfe of John A. Morris, an upholster er, living at 923 Twelfth street north west, died late esterday afternoon after inhaling Illuminating gas. Mrs. Morris, who is said to have been des pondent because of ill health, was found unconscious by Mrs. Elizabeth B. Marr, who roomed with the Morris family. Besides her husband, Mrs Morris is survived by a daughter. Frances Mor ris, six years old Mr. Morris said that his wife was in good spirits Fri da night, when the family went to a moving picture show The Keat Explained. The little agricultural village had been billed with "lwture on Keats" for over a fortnight The evening arrived at length, bringing the lecturer re-idy to discourse on the poet Th- advertised chairman, taken id at the last momvt, was teplacexl by a local farmer. This worthj introduced the It cturer and ter minate! his remarks bv .'aylng: ".nd now, tnj friends, we shall soon all know what 1 perjonallv haw ogten wondered what are Keats?'' Pitts burgh Chronicle-Telegraph. From left to right the. boots above are- Men's standard dress boot in pat ent leather and cloth: French calf, blind evclet boot for day. dull black leather, black cloth top patnt leather, grt i loth top. button style, tan storm boot in oil crain. hin leather with fash ionable brocaded top. button style. The Palais Royal A Double Fumble. "Who was that tough-looking cviap I saw jou with today. Hicks?" "Be careful. uPrKerl That wis my twin brother." "By Jove, old ohap, forgive rne' 1 ought to have known." Boston Transcript. w hen the figure demands more softness These surplices are adjustable with kohlnoor snap fasteners, to be made loose or close as preferred. Peplum blouses that are worn out side the skirt follow In the, ranks of the basque effects, since the women who wear the separate skirt and blouse a fashionable combination this season desire to have their attire in close har mony with the dress styles. The Tailored Blouse. sWiii '"' lnla Pnsl summer we nave had ln--Ai .dications that tailored fashions were i .iMiiiJit, 'i ieiiii. hiiu nuw litis ioii we J tlnd a fulfillment of the promise In Dye ;j ;sincuy lauorea mouse, xnis aoes not : mean tne mannish shirt by any means. but a slightly mannish suggestion that has been very much feminized. Even I in the dressiest of blouses this severity of effect Is maintained. Not only in the , llrm materials such as batiste, percale, fand handkerchief linen are these blouses ue eloped, but In the new taffeta. pus3' willow, which has Just the right soft ness and luster to give the desired ef fect. These pussy willow taffetas are to be had In stripes and figures as well as In the plain rich colors that dominate the fall waist lines. For the softer sur I lice models, crepe Georgette Is a fa forlte Paris material, replacing the long" popular white lace wa!st. What of Neckwear. The tailored effect is the fit that has gone forth in the matte? of new neck wear, as well as of the new blouses. i This tailored Indication was given late In the summer as a forecast of fall, and j Paris has been busy with novel tailored ' ideas that' Influence the fall mode. It reems odd to be talking about high stocks and closed starched linen collars. but already these have appeared in the eccentric shapes of the dlrectolre pe riod, in keeping with the prevalence of standing and half-standing effects that have the fashionable preference. High backed and flaring is the general rule, while some of the new styles stand up at the back of the neck only, not run ning along the sides at all. To brighten up a tailored suit or even materials and sizes, brought into vomie by the semi-fitted blouses with long Plain sleeves. Veilings and Gloves. For the small hat the veil Is inevi table, and the small hat of the fall now here seems to have demanded border ef fects, to follow on the heels of the chin and nose veils of the summer. Many of the borders are woven, others are of velvet or chenille spots, while some of the handsomest are of filet mesh with el vet square. These deep bordered designs may be worn loose with the larger hats, and will be quite as stylish. If one does not want the border over the face. Inverted with the border against the hat and the plain edge to the nose or to the chin. For the face veil proper the fine Indistinct meshes, with all-over spray patterns and velvet or chenille dots have the call of fashion. Since long sleeves predominate in suits and in the new seml-flttlng frocks, even for elaborate afternoon wear, short gloves are inevitable. Evening dresses have either no sleeves at all or are full- length fitted sleeves of transparent ma terial, with gloves according in length. Paris has revived the glove with colored stitching and colored fourchettes or pieces between the fingers. For dancing there is a preference for the nlagara silk glove, both in plain and embroid ered styles, since this makes a cooler dancing glove than kid. Lingerie Daintiness. Several delightful new Ideas have ap peared In the way of making underwear more dainty than It has ever been be fore. In Imported garments there is a new trimming scheme which supple ments rather than replaces the usual Parisian daintiness. It comes from Vienna, the embroidery being in de signs of the Wiener TVerkstatte, and vastly more varied than the usual mon otone trimming effect. Two new mate rials have been adopted here, and are finding great favor with the woman who likes her underwear to express her in dividuality One Is quite practical and substantial, though none the less ex-j quislte, a wash pussy willow taffeta that Is replacing the usual wash silks for robes de nuit, petticoats and the more Intimate undergarments, as well as for boudoif robes. The othefvrna terlal Is new chiffon-Ilke indestructible voile In dainty colors and flowered de signs, used for the same purposes as the taffeta. ' Some of the most delightful feminine accessories are the jeweled hair combs in colo-ed settings of a contrasting color Tne modified Spanish type of high t k comb is about as fetching a thing . can be worn, and Just now It is pro'-, to set it- Into the high, coiffure at a d-- Med angle, rather than posing it upright as did the picturesque -Span- isn scnora. . , To add Just the necessary touch 'to the toilette there are Innumerable little neck chains again this season, many -of them In black and .white effects -and with a black silk cord Instead of a chain or ribbon. Dainty cut crystal cameos are another novel feature or thesefCord lavallleres. while others of the fashion able ornaments are in. barbaric effect in which the Chinese Influence Is strongly manifested. " - ' The handbag of material replaces1 the one of leather for dressy use. and-is usually hung to straps of self or-. of ribbon with fancy Jeweled or metal slides. Developed In black moire, blacjt taffeta, Roman stripes, striped and flowered silks and fitted with vanity set. these bags make the most charming accessories of the completely appointed costume. ;&K "X If You ' -m l t5 -j V Hunting For a Hatter . who knows hovj- to remoderyonr" last year's hat in this season's latest style yon must cim at the Vienna Hat Co. Ladies' and Children's Felt,' Beaver, Velour, and Velvet Hats dyed, blocked, and remodeled in, the latest styles at reasonable' prices. , ' i aciory or -vi Vienna Hat Co. 435 11th Street Opposite Harrlnjrton N.w:; Hotel. " I (7'zze&fg THE TIMES Carries More Shoe Advertising Than Any Other Washington Newspaper so THE new Autumn-Winter "Q. Q." high shoes include Combinations of Colors in leathers and cloth. Brocaded and plain gray and fawn tops are linked with black. The vamps long and slender, the heels, Spanish and Cuban effects, give the beautiful arch associated with Q. Q." Shoes. Compare the $3.50 "Q. Q." with usual $5.00 shoes and find in the $6.50 and $7.00 "Q. Q." the hand-made shoes equal to custom-made at $10.00. PALAIS ROYAL A. LISNER : niBininig r 1t 1 fL. . I yrfaivy ! I 07rVW? !'- i -r''rsri'4iA& mVtt ILAMMIW VMVyO ucmsipuld fi SOQMlrfe " pT8 m ' f ld FINE OLD G and Jlth Streets Violins, Violas and 'Cellos Strings. Bows, Cases, and Other Merchandise. Specail Outfits for the Violin Student, Comprising Every Necessity for Study, from $15.00 UP. Sheet Music and Books Classified and Graded For Convenience. J. Edgar Robinson Studio Building 1306 G St. N. W. rCut this .i I nut and present it for a Dictionary of Music jpui. rafiSsS! The Borden Patented Hair Goods uomoinea wjtn ever-aesiraoje airy usniness, a. i-' masterly simplicity in construction, allowinjr instant adjustment. Absolutely no cumbersome stems or cords, no lace, net or wires. They are fashioned o fluffy, natural wavy hair. WILL MOVE OCTOBER 1ST, 1814, TO 1115 G N. W. Where we can better accommodate our increased patronage. Special Price Durlns: Removal. Yes, we make up your combings beautifully. bu,t none are bought or sold at any price. " Patented TJp rlsht Shampooing-. Manicuring and Children's Hair Cutting. High Frequency used in treating the scalp. V Mrs. E. L. Goddard Announces That She Has Purchased the Hair Dressing and Manicuring Parlors of Miss M. J. Boyd, at 1112 G St. Where the Business will be conducted in connection with Mrs. Goddmi's CORSET SHOP, and is prepared, with her corps of skilled operators, to give Electric Facial and Scalp Treatment" and only thoroughly sterilized equipment will be used. Manicuring skillfully done. Gossard's Corsets, Back Lac Cotfeets. They Lace in Front. Comt Accessories. FOR APPOINTMENTS CALL MAIN 2490 704 11th St. N.W. PHO.VE MAIX 4445. Washington. Ifthurr Park, Vtlanrle CitT. .J&Ayrctert? Sd lallnta In Hair Roods. STEINWAY oE PIANOS -PLAYER-PIANOS- Victor Victrolas and Records E. F, Droop & Sons Co. 1300 G Street eihe 9tobeWermcke Co. Exclusive Library Furniture Exclusive designs in Sectional Book Cases,' just out, finished to match your library at no extra cost "They cost no more than the ordinary kind" 1218-1220 F St. N. W, l( 4m i