Newspaper Page Text
PARIS Sept. 34.
kt, of borae, so virtee is SR '-t*ms of any kind, but sometimes by making sftemes meet, aooer4 tb1 eyingI Vq attain a harmony by the .rs4lcl Sature of each diaap tad' sowrthig really beautiful ap rdramatist, every writer, knows the contrast. Tlhe chemist, by com be ie frightfe!!y explosive substance o~e innocuously mild, tones down the , srpt and puts force into the last. The com tios produces something which gives eist to the otherwise commonplace robs the dangeroes, of its extreme t taking sway its fascination. y of this philosophy appears In es shn ere today-haltend -d- they have been called. Is a dress whych, viewed from the Is stately, .mewhat severe and e Hu let the wearer turn beheld chiffons and furbelows, Bes and 'daintiness, airiness and girl fr1ltifty! Dees- one want to behold uss?-look at the front. Does lighter aspect?--then look at ,o and half df" was the somewhat j.ark of one to whom I explained She referred to the somewhat I decQlletage at the left. Well, per that is true. But the right arm and are extremely conventional. Let ", 4 .4 7 4I 1 .4a oohse .f stinh' rib. '1n0 Ie.. puff Gnd. me describe this copromiwseee-W stands for a type of a certain lries et design. Ptret, then, the charm of variety appears ta the gown that is to all appearanees a straight piece of black eatin 'depending from the shoulders. It wold be hard to devise anything of greater simplicity in a handsome frock. Yit the designer, it *ould appear, repegts of her beginning. She exercises the humans prerogative of changing her mind. She leaves off the black satin, as it wres at the hohders, or, if you prefer, at the ankles, and attires the other half of the wearer in white tulle, save for a sash Oeet cleverly contrived at the side. But tulle and dignity are strangers. Therefore the tulle, which clothes 60 per cent of Madame of Mademoiselle, is arranged in flounces and ruehes and bows with what a child well described as "sticky-outness." We will ses this season many examples of the half and-half gown in this form of contrast. A less extreme mode will be the gown of white chiffon, with a full-length back panel of black velvet supported, oloaklike, from the shoulders. This will unite the mood of frivolity with that of soberness. Another working out of the half-nd-balf method I. found in the carefully balanced mingling of colors. I have in mind a gown that is made of precisely equal parts of black satin and of turquoise-blue velvet. Another mingling is a sustained 60 per cent of black velvet with emerald-colored tulle. Brown velvet mingles well with gold colored chiffon in the same proportions. Or the more substantial crepe de chine provides the brilliant color. I am glad to find large quantities of crepe de chine available this season. It is at once light and substantial. It drapes well, which. is a great virtue in fabrics. It has an essen tial refinement that is always pleasing. Half-and-half gowns are seen in what is always artistic and effective-two shades of the same color. The front of an after noon or evening gown may be of dark blue satin and the back of bright-blue or pale-blue crepe de chine. The front may be a pezul of dark brown velvet and the back of sand-colored satin. The front may be of dark-green silk and ;;. the back of sea-green tulle. Other half-and-halt effects are secured by a bodice that reveals one side of satin, while the other consists of a fold of georgette crepe. This effect, an adapta tion of the surplice, is especially smart. Sleeves lend themselves well to the half-and-halt idea. A woman who is very chic can wear with graee a gown that has but one sleeve if the effect is well contrived. It may be secured by giving the impression that the long - tulled drapery that covers one arm is a wrap that has slipped from the other. Another Half-and-H Dress With 0n4 Shoulder Decorous!: * Looped With Sathi and the * Other Oni; * . Slightly Veiled. The Bodic Arrangemel is a Type of This ~~*I Unique Moi Half On aaldialf Of, Half Severend Half Friley. Half This, That and Everything-te Very Newest, Interesting Fashion Idea of Lady Duff Gordon ADY DUFF-GORDON, the famus "L ''* o Loa doa, and foremost creator of. feeioos is dhe worki, writes each week the fashion article for this newspaper, psewsali all that is newest and best in styles for wel-dresekd Lad Duifordon's Paris estabihaat briny her into lose touch with that centre of fashion. Lao DSGdon's American establishments are at Nos. 37 ad 39 West Fiftreventh street, New York, and No. 1400 Lahe Shore Drive. Chicase. The Back of the Dress with Its Demure Draping. of Filmy White and the Irregular Efect of Draping of Bodies and Shoulder., 'if c le. rhte Half and Half Dress 'rom the Side, Illustrating he Severe Front and Sweeping Train and Show ng the Curious effect of he White Tulle In Outline.