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The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, October 29, 1922, SUNDAY MORNING, Image 29

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn84026749/1922-10-29/ed-1/seq-29/

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artists, painters
AND sculptors
greet traveler
Many of the Most Prominent Hungarian
Celebrities Promise Flambeau to Contribute
1, Toward an Exposition (or Washington Next
P Winter, and the Newspapers in the Capital
' Spoke Glowingly of the Project?On to
[" Poland Next in Third-Class Carriages.
people in budapest
laugh over cheap
value of currency
'The Waiter Looks Scornfully at Your Modest
Tip of 2,TOO Kronen, Austrian, the Last of
All Your Money," Says Times Writer, "andl
Then Sniffs 'What Is That! Tuppence?"'
All of the Motels Are Crowded in This Busy
City and the Service Generally Is Good.
BUDAPEST, Sept. 15.
WHEN Flambeau and his new interpreter from
Vienna, Arnold Houben, arrived in Budapest by
the Danube steamer about 9 p. m., they were an
ticipating a food hotel and a fine dinner. For owing to
the revolution in Vienna and the consequent refusal of
banka there to give out money, they had come with only
enough to reach their destination, and were therefore supper
leea and nearly penniless, owing in part to the frequent
contributions on board for itinerant musicians, magician*,
aetora, "und so welter!"
And their high hopes for hotel and dinner were fulfilled.
Put not immediately. From one "gasthaus" to another
they tramped, a patient porter carrying Flambeau's heavy
t>ag?, bat everywhere the answer was the same, 4' Alles
besetxtI" Everything full.
it wm funny enough next day to look back at the ex
perienoe, and they were grateful to the Hotel Astoria,
even If the priee charged for magnificent rooms, the only
onea available, waa also magnificent. The Astoria, in Buda
pest, has only "first-clasa people," so the English-speaking
clerk at the desk aasured Flambeau. And, likewise, first
elaaa prieea.
One might as well be at a leading hotel in New York.
Go there, if you are in Budapest. It may make you feel at
home, especially if the waiter looks scornfully at your
modest tip of 2,000 kronen Austrian, the la?t of all your
money, and sniffs, "What is that! Tuppence!"
But this attitude ia not universal in Budapest, though
the hotela a^e crowded. Next day Flambeau's interpreter
found exeelient rooms for them at the Hollandia, for 500
kronen, about 30 cents American, but Flambeau decided to
remain at the "first-class" Astoria, though he let his com
panion sample the Hollandia.
fe How much u 3,500 kronen Aus
trian? Only a mere trifle, the
clerk reassured Flambeau?about
?2 American. But th3s kronen go
?o fast, and It is so impossible to
keep an account of them that one's
expanses j-eally mount very high
In a short time. The humor of the
starving people or Vienna Is still
?o keen that they actually laugh
at their money, all but worthless
as it is, when they make change
for you with a stack of bills a foot
high. And In Budapest, too, they
?re a people full of humor, but
their commercial sense Is highly
i developed. They are almost Amer
ican in some ways.
Hungary has suffered from the
war. 8he has lost more than a
third of her former territory. It
was the decision of the powers,
they tell you, ruefully, In Buda
pest. Czechoslovakia got a big
piece on the further side of the
Danube, and Rumania nn even
larger slice, besides a bit that fell
to Austria. The land is rich and
fertile, and large herds of cattle,
horses and swine graze along the
Danube on the Hungarian shores,
beside flocks of ducks, geese, and
~W?ld crane that fly or stand pic
. Even more unique are the chil
dren?boys and girls?who herd
the flocks, and Flambeau saw four
?r five young girls, about thirteen,
nude, dancing a Hungarian folk
dance on the shore, probably after
? dip In the cool water, which is
almost icy as it flows from the
?now-capped mountains farther
Lithe and graceful as fawns, they
danced, singing, all unconscious of
themselves, while the river s'Am
#r hurried by. The only garment
perhaps that they wore when
Clothed would be a slip of a dress,
which they had thrown off for the
awlm. and they were now drying
?nd warming themselves with the
d^nce, which was quite Greek In
I Its effect of sylvan background.
Which la Buda and which is
Festf Bleat If Flambeau knows!
jit aaked a half-dozen times, and
wrote it down, but still he couldn't
tell. One la the high cliff above
the Danube, where the ministry
and government houses are located,
. and the other U the town on the
hither side of the river.
Why Strauss named his waltzea
the "Blue Danube," except for po
etic license, also Is a mystery to
Flambeau. The Danube is a lovely
' light green, the reason being that
the ailt it carries from the moun
tains above la ao pale a yellow that
the sky reflects In It always a tint
of green,' never blue. And where
It etnptl*a. at Its delta, the silt
rpakes it Impossible for boats to
Agate the river at all
The proper language now In
Budapest is Hungarian, a Slavic
tongue entirely different from Ger
man, which is the language of
Vienna. There is, however, iom?
German still spoken there, aa a
part of the population ia German,
and the leading German newspa
per, the Pester Lloyd, wad the first
to receive Flambeau and to pub
lish the invitation of The Wash
ington Times to the artists, paint
ers and sculptors of Budapest to
contribute toward an exposition for
Washington next winter. Dr.
Theodore Frledrlch, the editor, ex
pressed much interest in the plan.
The Leading Hungarian paper, the
Pc-stlt Hirlap, of which Dr. .!<?
grady is editor, also gave a para
graph to the story, and He it Pors
solt Kalman here was most kind.
During the next two days Flam
beau held his usual receptions fpr
artists who wish to assist. There
was a charming lady, Mrs. J. C.
Zagorska, of the Hotel Elizabeth,
Egzetcm strasse, who has visited
America, and who will take charge
of assembling a collection of em
broideries and folk arts. She is
especially interested in Washing
ton, because her son is at present
there engaged with the ministry,
and she showed letters from many
friends in Ameriqs., including a
Washington acquaintance, Mrs.
Clara Kwapiszewska, at the Wy
oming apartments.
Strange to read these familiar
names in Budapest. Another artist
who offered beautiful leather hand
work and flower decorations is
Frauelein Oppel Magda, of Buda
pest V, Orszaghazter 4, and with
her as interpreter came Frauleln
Glselli* von Hadossy. Budapest VI
Ker., Izabella ulca 66, 111 em.,
who wishes an American corre
spondent to Improve her English,
a^genileman. If you please! Some
body write to her and help Viktor
Flambeau. She Is a charming
young lady.
One of the most Interesting re
quests was from Madame Dr. Fo
dar Antal, mother of Fraulein
Irene Kodar, of the Academy of
Fine Arts in Berlin, now engaged
near there with art commissions
in Charlottenberg, Hasdenberger
strasse 33, restoring an old castle
or some similar occupation. She
Is Hungarian and wishes to be In
cluded with the Budapest exhibi
tors. Doubtless the matter can be
arranged and she has also artist
friends who are Interested.
Another highly successful Hun
garian painter who wishes to be
represented Is Rltta Boeman, wife
of Herr Feher Kalman, the author,
who called upon Flambeau and
presented him with a most Inter
?sting brochure in Hungarian, dis
cussing a new and original Inter
pretation of Gothic Cathedral
motives. Mr. Kalman is not a
Catholic, yet he haa given the
Church a valuable discovery, if his
interpretation is correct, and a
young architect who was present
and went over the subject with
him. and who Is a Catholic, ex
pressed a very favorable opinion
of the theory, which Mr. Kalman
will soon elaborate In Englit*. i*
an American publication. Rltta
Boeman, the author's wife, has ex
hibited her paintings in California
and many other places, including
London, where she received a
medal for her worlp.
Two other visitors about the
Exposition were an artist, Oldal
Jstvan, and his son, both of whom
are sailing sqon to America, when
the ffcthsr will bring with him
some canvases for t)ie Exposition
at Washington.
The Director of the Museum of
Fine Art* of Budapest, Herr Elek
von Petrftvlcs, also expressed great
Interest In the plans, and a#reed to
write for publication in America a
brief history of modern Hungarian
art. They have In the collection
there many valuable examples of
all the great schools, besides an ar
ray of Hungarian painters, of
whom Munkacsy Is the beet-known
In America. In this museum they
have the artist's original sketch
for his famous picture In the
Metropolitan Gallery, New York,
"Christ before Pilate." And the
museum guards seemed much
nleased when Flambeau assured
them that their preliminary
sketch Is even better than the
noted finished canvas in the
At the Mlnlatry of Foreign Af
v " ?
fairs. Flambeau was most cordial
ly received by Mr. Egon de Cln
drlc, and later by Dr. Thuranszky
* Lasalo, aq author and editor of
not*, who furnished some inter
esting and Instructive pamphlets
about .Hungary, and next day sent
t Flambeau an array big enough to
?tart a library, and all so valu
able. The progressive spirit Is very
evident la Hungarian affairs, to
Judge from Budapest, and tha
direction of matters there.
Flambeau wan well taken car* of
In Budapest. he had a palatial
hotel, an accomplished Interpreter,
and besides he employed a guide
who spoke both Hungarian and
English, so that nothing might be
lost. O"* of their pleasantest ex
perience* .vns a luncheon of real
Hunga.rl<tn cooking at the Vlrag
ferencz res'aurant, Regl poeta
ulcza, Budapest, with all the proper
courses for both eating and drink
ing. It Is a famous bohemian
place, and not at all expensive.
As the guide, Herr Antal Kauf
mann of the Hotel Hungaria, told
them afterwards, It was bound to
be a good place for food, because
the waiters themselves patronised
It always, and they know the tight
things to eat. Another day they
tried the Ssarka I in re Kestfeurant,
Folereeoy Handor, with equal suc
cess There was a waiters' strike
while Flapil>e*u was In Budapest,
but In these smaller restaurant*,
where the family of the proprietor
often do moat of the work thein
selves, there ?u no difficulty
?bout servloa.
Many of the large restaurant*
were obliged to cloee. however.
But three places would later take
back their striking employes, bo
the guide told Flambeau, when the
question had been adjusted, only
dismissing perhaps some one or
two who had not proved quite satis
factory previously, or who had In
curred their displeasure.
The question was one of tips,
because they present the bill to
the customer, and on the bill is
charged an extra 10 per cent for
service, which is supposed to go to
the waiters, but is seldom so dis
The tipping question Is far from
settled. It appears, except In
Poland, where as Flambeau learn
ed later, by a new agreement be
tween the restaurant* and their
waiters, no tips are allowed. This
is not iron-clad, though, from
Flambeau's experience. The Hun
garian cooking Includes a generous
supply of paprika with everything,
and this la alio to be seen on the
table# like the salt, the latter be
ing used u an extra with bread
and butter, both In Bud*peat and
One of Flambeau's moat agree
able calls wan upon Horace Doraey
Newson, a secretary of the Ameri
can Legation at Budapeat, whose
advice proved very helpful. At the
foreign mlnlatry Flambeau present
ed the cards of Charles Wlntera,
counselor of the Hungarian legation
at Washington, and stationed In
New York.
Mr. Winters chanced to he |n
Budapest at the time of Flam
beau's visit, and aeeing in the
morning paper the notice of hla
arrival, Mr. Winters was one of
the first to call upon Flambeau
at the Hotel Astor;a, and to In
vite him to hla home to meet hla
charming Bister, Mra. Aurel von
Eisner, whose residence is on the
lovely Ferencz Jozsef Rakpart 27,
along the Danube, and just oppo
site a magnificent bridge which
spans the river. They had a de
lightful tea for Flambeau, and he
also met the Hon. Herr von Eis
ner, who was very kind in ex
plaining the splendid view of the
Danube and the historic heights
above the river.
Mr. Winters should bring bis
irraclous and artistic sister to
Washington, where she Is sure to
be most popular She is a friend
of many artlata in Budapeat and
haa a valuable art colfectlon of
her own. Mr. Wlntera rem'nded
Flambeau that there la In New
Tork an art colony of some
160 Hungarian artlata, actor*,
musicians and painters, and he
suggested that some members of
their group should be chosen to
select a representative showing
of their work, which will, of
course, be done.
Halml. one of them and quite a
celebrated Hungarian portrait
painter, is now on his way back
to New Tork. Another excellent
portrait painter In Budapest, one
of the best, is Karlovsxky, a friend
of Herr and Madame von Eisner,
and he will no doubt contribute to
the expoaltion. De Laszlo, so very
successful In America, la also an
other Hungarian star.
Flambeau was not quite satis
fied, however, with the results
of his efforts to find an organ
izer for Budapest who was not
too busy to undertake the matter,
so he went ?on hie last evening
to the "Feaek Club," a favorite
artist association in Kerteasulcx.
much like our Washington Aats
Club, and there he talked with
Herr Rudolf Brucktelner, the
manager, who recommended that
Herr Tolnay Akos. a leading painter
of the club, be invited to act as
organiser, and Flambeau forth
with followed the advice.
Just what will come from Buda
pest for an expoaltion will no
doubt be lntereating and quite up
to the standard, for everything
hare is strong and original, and
the peasant arts ahould give an
excellent feature, quite new to
Waahtnaton. The virility of thia
nation will be reflected in the art
which they contribute, and they
are likely to aend something
really unique.
In Brooklyn, N. Y.. la.st season
a fascinating exhibition of "Peas
ant Arts of Hungary" was shown
at the Brooklyn Museum, where
Mr. Stewart Cullin, an authority
on Hungarian arts, lectured on
the subject. Poster designs by
young pupils in the Hungarian
Art Schools revealed ability in
advance of similar work In Ameri
can achoola, though this la not
strange alnce the Hungariana have
a peculiarly rich heritage of the
Oriental art influences, with Per
alan and'Indian art. "Turkey
red" waa brought to them by the
Turka. Peasant costumes are
now somewhat revived In Hun
gary, and there is a decided ten
dency, aa in Chechoslovakia, to em
phasise the original national char
acter. ?>
The government of Hungary, \s
all the world knows today, Is
rather extraordinary, being
present In the control of a very
strong man, the regent, who acts
for the absent young Crown
Prince, who would nominally be
the King. Conditions In Buda
. pest seem on fee whole excellent.
and everything there "more?."
This to true of the street car serv
ice. which seemed the best Flam
beau had yet found in Europe,
but he was told that a great Im
provement had been made in Buda
pest in this service during the last
six months. The cars run so often
and so quickly, and there is such
an excellent underground, that go
ing about is a real pleasure, even
if the weather happens to ba
showery. Horses, too, are not
scarce, in this gracing country, so
cabs are not too expensive.
The people are primitive in
many ways, and even in the fash
ionable "Astoria" Hotel, one may
find a bare-footed maid sweeping
the corridor, and in the streets
there are many bare-footed women
"Thee mit Rum" Is the popular
form even for breakfast, and It
is a painful surprise to the wai
ter when one asks for "Milch,
bitter' But he brings It all right.
The "Britannia Hotel" near the
Newgoty Station in Budapest wan
afterward recommended to Flam
beau by a fellow traveler, but he
had no opportunity to try it. In
Budapest, and often in Vienna, it
is the correct thing for the gentle
man to kiss the lady's hand in
farewell salute, after a call, as also
on arriving, or at an introduc
tion. ft is very gracefully done,
^ue to long practice. The great
poet of Hungary, Petofi 8andor. is
commemorated by a recent monu
ment In Budapeat.
There is an exceedingly popular
family of royal birth, ytlll resi
dent today in Budapest, the Arch
duke Joseph- and hla y consort, the
Archduchess, who 'was by b:rth a
Bavarian Princess. They have two
daughters and two sons, the
latter now wen grown and,
like their sisters, very hand
some. Photographs of y>ese char it -
ing people are sold in Budapest,
and are great favorites with the
Hungarians, the Archduke being a
successful business man, the pro
prietor of large estates.
Flambein and his companion
enjoyed the "movies" in a real
Hungarian "kino" one evening,
and found the taste decidedly
"flamboyant." The pictures were
varied, three different plays being
given in the brief time spent
there by the strangers. The films
are run v?ry rapidly and with
hardly a Una of explanation, since
the Hungarian audience seems to
be the keenest In Europe for
catching the story, which was
often to Flambeau somewhat ob
scure, although the plots wera
simple and verging on the gro
tesque. which met the .popular
The first moving picture was -a
mimic bull fight. With a Spanish
toreador, the entire composition
being a comedy. The second story
was also a farcical Hungarian
grotesque. And then who should
suddenly spring on the screen but
"Fatty" Arbuckle in a seashore
bathing play, of much his usual
character, and evidently very
pleasing to the Budapest audience
In Vienna "Mary Pickford" w&*
being featured in her well-known
poor little slave girl, or drudge,
"Ammaridy, das klelne Waescho:?
U was ,a disappointment to
Flambeau not to find the opern
anywhere, but Hungarian music
was In evidence at the "movies,"
of course, and In the hotel or
chestras, which were numerous
The Hungarian musicians are sairl
to be "gypsies," but not the wan
derlng gypsies, who are known a*
coppefc and tin smiths and who
it Is skid, often become very rich
in their rambling life.
The middle European notion of
pur American women is often too
rkflculous. Perhaps it wi? from
an Illustrated Vienna n^spaper
that Flambeau culled this memory
gem: "A new sport of Am?rtoar
ladles: Miss Helen Olll, seated on the
bark of her pet tortoise, feeds tbt
animal with bananas." But he ha*
no doubt that a similar impressior
of American society girls pervade*
Budapest as well.
In every country In Europe vis
lted by Flambeau they are still
taking up collections for war or
phans, wounded soldiers, education
of Impoverished students or other
philanthropic purposes, and ta
(Continued on Page C)

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