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FASHIONS FOR BALLROOM
LOW DECOLLETAGE AND TRAIN'S RETURN MARK 1922 MODES One'Sleeve Effect Also popular?Blase Society Jarred From Its Ennui by Combination o( Bishop's Purple and Cardinal Red?Use of Tulle and Lace Gives Fluttering Softness Rumored So Attractive in Eyes of Men. 4 By VIRGINIA KINDON. MANY dresses are dresses for a'that. But an even ing gown is more than a mere gown. It is /moon light on the rippled surface of a lake. It' is the jeweled beauty of a cobweb, hung with early-morning pearls. 8ometimes it is a dark-blue oceAn wave?a pink powder-puff, a piece of the rainbow. It is the alpha -and the omega of the fashion world. ' ' ' K ? ?-* ' ? The work-a-day-world, from sunrise to sunset, wears a Conventional costume. The rules of convention and pract icability govern that costume's goings and comings. This is not true alter the clock strikes six. When candles glow, gowns are a law unto themselves. Versatility and individu A quaint black frock adds a frivolous lace bertha. An odd ribbon ornament trails iW almond green lengths down the front of the full skirt. / < * * ?' j r ^ No ^veiling wrap is lovelier than one fashioned from old-b^ue velvet. Huge sleeves, extravagant tassels, the daintiest of blue, gold-braid trimmed lining, and a collar of near-chinchilla fit in with the luxurious picture. HOW NEW YORK IS DRESSING I I OUaging gardenia-white crepe chooses large orna ments of jet and crystal to complete the fashion of a striking evening gown. j. ? * ?. * / Victorian and demure is the gray chapeau with curl ing ostrich plumes. ' * * * j Black lustreless crepe and brocade follow the popular one-sleeve style. Buckles of black and silver mark the side draperies. FEMININITY, THE OLD "SURE FIRE" IN DRESS, AGAIN CLAIMS "SPOT' Mrs. Fashion, Always Quite Ladylike, Row Offers a) Tissue-Thin Jacket With Ponderous, ^ Muffling Collar and Wide-Brimmed Boasting Fly-Away' Cro#n?Drooping Fashioned Like Umbre]la Is Made of Seal By WINETBBD VAH DUZEB. > NEW YORK, Oct. 28. INCONSISTENCY, declared to be the quality feminine by those who doubtless know,.is as it is. All women may be inconsistent; none njay be; but she who is feminine by profession, Dame Fashion, is seldom anything else. ? . s y Thus the week comes by its tiisue-thin jacket with such ponderous, muffling collar as wduld cause an Eskimo to squirm with delight; its hat of substantial brim and fly away crown; its union of fur and chiffon; its scandalous intimiinv h?tiv??n kpdI unH silver mpuh. ality have an excellent oppc Personal likes and dislikes a There to no limit to the en chanting powers of the garb for the hours when amusement to the god, laughter the password and beautiful gowns the open sesame. ?Tto fascinating. This world of tke evening. Gowns and life are Interesting. Laughter and adorn ments light and gay. Jewels vie With conversation for brilliancy. iVEMBER Is the most prlvl leged of months. 8he to the hostess for. the first of the balls, the debutantes, the decorated walls of the gay restaurants, the flower-decked ballrooms as the back-drop for this, her most fascin ating stage. With nimble fingers, the pulls the strings of the marionettes. And with pleasing gestures, they make their bows. They dance and applaud?a mimic world arrayed in a most wonder ful raiment. November '22 to a favored child ?f Mistress Fashion. Not In years has Fashion responded to t?e call of a gay season In so dazzling, gorgeous, magnificent and appeal ing manifestations. The styles of bygone days, the Jewels of the earth, the fabrics of kings?all are at her disposal. With a lavish hand she has utilised all these gifts. Brilliant Indeed will be this winter's ballrooms. From the Orient has come the pattern for a lovely,-flower-adornea fellk. China Inspired the re splendent embroideries that adorn a gown of unusual color and texture. I The colorful days of Venice, In Renaissance time, sup piled the theme for a model of Wine cerise velvet, embroidered With designs in yellow arid gold. Victorian modes are repeated In the lovely, off-at-the-shoulder frocks, with the snug bodices and full skirts. ? ? ? ? rpHIS Is a season of contrasts. Gowns that emphasize the Straight, slim silhouette touch daintily powdered shoulders with those whose bouffant skirts seem a p?rt of the court ladles of Marie Antoinette. Pleasant Is the con trast when a black velvet gown, severe an to live and adornment, acknowledges an introduction to a frivolous frock developed In blue metal cloth. Frivolous. -Indeed, with a double train of gold and ?liver. Its hooped skirt cowered with Jeweled-embroldered net. and the tiny red and go? roses that mark the bodice. Models fashioned frora the soft ?nd lovely one-tone fabrics are often dinner guests with those whose gorgeousness seems an Arabian night splenaor come to life. ' The most diaphanous of chiffons shrug their pretty shoul ders at the double crepes and velvets. Even In the matter of sleeves, the noticeable contrast leaves Its flngerpotnu. A clever caption claimed that the day had a thou sand sleeves, and the night had ? ? ? >rtunity to show their power. ssert themselves. * .. ?> ?' none. And while most gowns en deavor to adhere to this rule, the number that fall out of Une are Interesting. , A large number of (nodela boaat one sleeve. Other* I have capea that suggest sleevea. And the atrlng of beada, the blta of ribbon and lace, that mas querade aa aleevea, rob the sleevs leaa statement of Ita accuracy. ? "? ? 'J'MB one-sleeve effect la a popu lar foible of the hour. A black gown of luaterless crepe goes to ancient Rome for Ita toga-style arm-draper}-. A fold of the ma terial covers the top of the left arm only, and then falls In loose folds below the waistline. The' off-and-on-game la played quite aucoessfully by a white velvet model. Over j the right shoulder l? approved manner, la a string of crystal beads. But the left side la Allowed to drop off from the ahoulder, and ^s if to inslM up for thla Indlacretlon. hangs a piece of the velvet over the lower part of the arm. Fickle Is the fashion that changes ita mind even before the gown la completed, designing an elbow-length sleevi for the left >?rm. and then permitting the right" to go forth Into the even ing world without even a bead to protect it from the gaze of the critical. The moat blaze of society's throngs are aroused (rom ennui when a gowp dares to combine blahop'a purple with cardinal rAl. And when a gorgeous red velvet affair traces ha silken fold with an intricate bead design, and finally veils all thla splendor with fine lace and cloud! of chiffon, boredom la impossible. 'PHIS veiling process la a trick from a shrewd designer's bag. It half reveals and half con ceals. and Ih all_cases give* a soft and gracloua effect that flat ten beauty. Perhapa the strong est argument in favor of the uae of tails and lace, ia that all men are auaceptible to the lure and the charm of the myaterioua veil. And even red, a color not agreeable to many men, ia aoftened and changed tyr the addition of raauve lace or atnoke-grey and silver tulle. In direct opposition to this flut tering softness, are the statuesque robes that derive their dignified charm through the careful use and selection of draped velvets, softly buckled crepe, and through the use of the cloth of Queens, the magnificent metal clotha. When a matron chooses a white chiffon velvet, wonderfully draped over an underskirt of black Chantllly lace,' | allows no aleeves. and relieves the creamy sheen of the straight llnca by a huge, black flower, then poise and dignity are assured. Jewels make for dignity also. So a modiste In search of trim ming to fit In with the desired statuesque mode, plans a gown The Universal Language! Expressive of every sentiment?welcome on all occasions?all sea sons. Flowers hold ui disputed sway as the bearer of messages par excellence. And nowhere are flowers more beautiful?more fra grant, than those tenderly nurtured in the Gude Greenhouses! , . % GUDE BROTHERS (XI ISIS P STREET N. W. rkMN cdif ijjiiii from lavender velvet, drupes it in 'the moat simplified, yet artistic of folds, and string* diamonds for shoulder straps. Fur is a happy thought and makes conversation more Inter esting In the complex hours around midnight. Oold lace pan els decide to end in hands of sa ble. Black velvet takes on a re gal air when It fsvor* ermine as adornment. Yellow chiffon loves U> border the Victorneckline .with hands of skunk, and then, as If relurtant to part without trior f*r, borders tlje silver mksd. that Mtfi'vcn an u bodice trimming . with matching fur. ? 0 >" ? - N 'J'RAINB are a??n more this your, on evening gowns than for noVPial years past. Even the square train of twenty seasons ago is smiled upon. On tratna the use of fur to aerve as an an chor for, the filmy and fragile lengths, is u|panunt. Klowera and pearls, and combinations of both, also ride about on the trailing and uncertain end of other trains. On* French gown struts about with a Ion a, pointed train, hnr , platinum fox. The ?Jttreiiiea of the evening gown form an amusing subject. Now that trains are envogiu>, the decolletage becomes quite daring. Strictly low necks In both front and hack are quit*1 .usual for hoth theatre and general wear. Many of the dresses ftal! In a class that heretofore ha 4 been associated only with /if most formal of occasions A striking faUure of the eve ning coatwme la that It Is llkaly t? have a skirt of one color nn-1 rh?* iMHterlBl end ?ortatt> of '' ? v-1- ?1? . combination)!. are unusual, and lovely. ^ . f , ? VELVET8 that seem to lead the Kowni of the' wee, small hours, run the color gamut, in cluding black and white. And oddly enough, yet In keeping with a brown year. somber tones ari quite In demand. Dead leaf, old-leather brown, and all the copper trtnea In lace, velvet and even metal clothes are f*<sq??nt1y seen Oreen Is the nearest rival for the Krwwnsv cv.tsnfcn and ?'?"<?? <1 are tb? two tfcversd. It'a all very bemusing., a* Fashion, of course, Intended. N * * * T*HE Jacket la a sightly thins with llnea filched from the Chinese. It la straight to the walat, or a thought below, and there It ends. The fabric la silver cloth embroidered aolidly with a arrange little leaf pattern; blue, green, gold, and red, set stiffly in rows with a thread ^f black between. The front closing is splashed with the color of flame in the globe-shaped buttons-which run up to the deep, rounded, sable collar. A close-fitting little bat of the same embroidered silver makes up a set. The brim is sable, with a cluster jot tails at the left side. ? > ? AND oh the other hat* I saw! One with a brim surely pat terned for an open umbrella, such was its width and state of droopl nesa. And made of seal! Heavy and furry and overwhelming! But the crown was narrow strips of silver ribbon faggoted to gether w^lth. qJJ ver thread. The faggoting vu wide, so a full h<^f inch space was left for airing Madame's hair. There was a goldsn satin rose the size of a cabbage to add weight to the brim. Another model suite as astonish ing was small aa the first was large. A broad band of silver tissue was the bulwark of this. It wound itself fiercely round the head at an agle to cover the fore head and tops of cars. But Its promise of guardianship Boon was broken, for the crown was covered by a vague bit of silver colored tulle. A Mercury wing of rhinestones perched at the right of the-front contributed a dash of mystery. ? ? ? J^ THIRD hat. Infinitely less bizarre than the others, but, to my mind. equally more charming, was copied by our great copyist from that certain little corner of Central Park, where a clump of evergreens hobnob with a beech whose leaves have turned orange. It was a reasonable xhape of cedar-green velvet, with the brim rolling ever so slightly here and there. And about the crown, so that It laid flufflly upon and over the brim and fell from one side wan an ostrich feather of cedar green and orange. shoe inconsistency. Fashion slyly works up a little more than enough of something, such as the four-and-a-half inch heel on the,- ultra new shoe?the Florentine, i After which she allows uni formity to go by the boards by undergoing something else, such as the sides of the shoe which are mere ribbed skeletons. The Florentine, in fact, is little more than a heel and shallow toe. placed at opposite en<ls of a soK The entire re maining portion is a series of ?traps. A strap runs from the toe to another that crosses the bare In step and further connects with tw> or three ankle straps. Smart models'are made of color ed leather with straps of black patent leather. For dress they art satin or brocade in various shades j and the straps are gold or silver set with jewels. ' The heels flash like columns 01 incandescent light, since they ur * encrusted with rlpnestones or in tation emeralds or rubles. "Sheik" is anpther novelty. This, too, la largely straps, winding the ankles and crossing the Instep. The toes are opepwork, the heels lower than those on other models and the materials patent leaih-i Then there is the oxford whit'.' looks like a waneing memory ot the oldftime shoe of the type, sin< t straps of hair-line width form the sides, the back fc-top the tall Louim heels, and the double pieces in front through which a satin ribbon, ponderous by comparison, is laced Renee Jackets .are usually rather long, resulting in almo?' a tunic effect over the nano" skirts, and are girdled at the hips in'easy fashion. Sleeves are long and widen slightly toward the wrists, where they are finished ' with great fur cuffs. The coa skirls fall straight or flare a trifle on the sides. Often the back of/ the coat Is drawn so tightly aboin the hips that it results jn a blotiseii effect above the low waist Un? I Rather wide girdle-ends are at tached on each side at the hips sii'l tie on the left side in front. whei > the coat laps well to the left sld< ? ? ? there's the matter of Renee Features. / n y ' - Glorious Raiment For the New Season! NEW materials, new - colors, new trim- " mings combine to express refreshing originality. ?_ Chic hats, unusually at tractive gowns, suits and coats are a few of the articles always on display here at surprisingly low prices. Whatever be your taste, a visit will convince you that we are prepared to gratify it. ) 921 6WST.RW.