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The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, October 29, 1922, SUNDAY MORNING, Image 38

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn84026749/1922-10-29/ed-1/seq-38/

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One'Sleeve Effect Also popular?Blase Society
Jarred From Its Ennui by Combination o(
Bishop's Purple and Cardinal Red?Use of
Tulle and Lace Gives Fluttering Softness
Rumored So Attractive in Eyes of Men.
MANY dresses are dresses for a'that. But an even
ing gown is more than a mere gown. It is /moon
light on the rippled surface of a lake. It' is the
jeweled beauty of a cobweb, hung with early-morning pearls.
8ometimes it is a dark-blue oceAn wave?a pink powder-puff,
a piece of the rainbow. It is the alpha -and the omega of
the fashion world. ' ' '
K ? ?-* '
? The work-a-day-world, from sunrise to sunset, wears a
Conventional costume. The rules of convention and pract
icability govern that costume's goings and comings. This
is not true alter the clock strikes six. When candles glow,
gowns are a law unto themselves. Versatility and individu
A quaint black frock adds a frivolous lace bertha.
An odd ribbon ornament trails iW almond green
lengths down the front of the full skirt.
/ < * * ?'
j r ^
No ^veiling wrap is lovelier than one fashioned from
old-b^ue velvet. Huge sleeves, extravagant tassels, the
daintiest of blue, gold-braid trimmed lining, and a collar
of near-chinchilla fit in with the luxurious picture.
OUaging gardenia-white crepe chooses large orna
ments of jet and crystal to complete the fashion of a
striking evening gown.
j. ? * ?. * /
Victorian and demure is the gray chapeau with curl
ing ostrich plumes. '
* * * j
Black lustreless crepe and brocade follow the popular
one-sleeve style. Buckles of black and silver mark the
side draperies.
Mrs. Fashion, Always Quite Ladylike, Row
Offers a) Tissue-Thin Jacket With Ponderous,
^ Muffling Collar and Wide-Brimmed
Boasting Fly-Away' Cro#n?Drooping
Fashioned Like Umbre]la Is Made of Seal
> NEW YORK, Oct. 28.
INCONSISTENCY, declared to be the quality feminine
by those who doubtless know,.is as it is.
All women may be inconsistent; none njay be; but
she who is feminine by profession, Dame Fashion, is seldom
anything else. ? . s y
Thus the week comes by its tiisue-thin jacket with such
ponderous, muffling collar as wduld cause an Eskimo to
squirm with delight; its hat of substantial brim and fly
away crown; its union of fur and chiffon; its scandalous
intimiinv h?tiv??n kpdI unH silver mpuh.
ality have an excellent oppc
Personal likes and dislikes a
There to no limit to the en
chanting powers of the garb for
the hours when amusement to the
god, laughter the password and
beautiful gowns the open sesame.
?Tto fascinating. This world of
tke evening. Gowns and life are
Interesting. Laughter and adorn
ments light and gay. Jewels vie
With conversation for brilliancy.
iVEMBER Is the most prlvl
leged of months. 8he to
the hostess for. the first of the
balls, the debutantes, the decorated
walls of the gay restaurants, the
flower-decked ballrooms as the
back-drop for this, her most fascin
ating stage. With nimble fingers,
the pulls the strings of the
marionettes. And with pleasing
gestures, they make their bows.
They dance and applaud?a mimic
world arrayed in a most wonder
ful raiment.
November '22 to a favored child
?f Mistress Fashion. Not In years
has Fashion responded to t?e call
of a gay season In so dazzling,
gorgeous, magnificent and appeal
ing manifestations. The styles of
bygone days, the Jewels of the
earth, the fabrics of kings?all
are at her disposal. With a
lavish hand she has utilised all
these gifts. Brilliant Indeed will
be this winter's ballrooms.
From the Orient has come the
pattern for a lovely,-flower-adornea
fellk. China Inspired the re
splendent embroideries that adorn
a gown of unusual color and
texture. I The colorful days of
Venice, In Renaissance time, sup
piled the theme for a model of
Wine cerise velvet, embroidered
With designs in yellow arid gold.
Victorian modes are repeated In
the lovely, off-at-the-shoulder
frocks, with the snug bodices and
full skirts.
? ? ? ?
rpHIS Is a season of contrasts.
Gowns that emphasize the
Straight, slim silhouette touch
daintily powdered shoulders with
those whose bouffant skirts seem
a p?rt of the court ladles of Marie
Antoinette. Pleasant Is the con
trast when a black velvet gown,
severe an to live and adornment,
acknowledges an introduction to a
frivolous frock developed In blue
metal cloth. Frivolous. -Indeed,
with a double train of gold and
?liver. Its hooped skirt cowered
with Jeweled-embroldered net. and
the tiny red and go? roses that
mark the bodice.
Models fashioned frora the soft
?nd lovely one-tone fabrics are
often dinner guests with those
whose gorgeousness seems an
Arabian night splenaor come to
life. ' The most diaphanous of
chiffons shrug their pretty shoul
ders at the double crepes and
Even In the matter of sleeves,
the noticeable contrast leaves Its
flngerpotnu. A clever caption
claimed that the day had a thou
sand sleeves, and the night had
? ? ?
>rtunity to show their power.
ssert themselves. * ..
?> ?'
none. And while most gowns en
deavor to adhere to this rule, the
number that fall out of Une are
Interesting. , A large number of
(nodela boaat one sleeve. Other*
I have capea that suggest sleevea.
And the atrlng of beada, the blta
of ribbon and lace, that mas
querade aa aleevea, rob the sleevs
leaa statement of Ita accuracy.
? "? ?
'J'MB one-sleeve effect la a popu
lar foible of the hour. A black
gown of luaterless crepe goes to
ancient Rome for Ita toga-style
arm-draper}-. A fold of the ma
terial covers the top of the left
arm only, and then falls In loose
folds below the waistline. The'
off-and-on-game la played quite
aucoessfully by a white velvet
model. Over j the right shoulder
l? approved manner, la a string
of crystal beads. But the left
side la Allowed to drop off from
the ahoulder, and ^s if to inslM
up for thla Indlacretlon. hangs a
piece of the velvet over the lower
part of the arm.
Fickle Is the fashion that
changes ita mind even before the
gown la completed, designing an
elbow-length sleevi for the left
>?rm. and then permitting the
right" to go forth Into the even
ing world without even a bead
to protect it from the gaze of the
The moat blaze of society's
throngs are aroused (rom ennui
when a gowp dares to combine
blahop'a purple with cardinal rAl.
And when a gorgeous red velvet
affair traces ha silken fold with
an intricate bead design, and
finally veils all thla splendor with
fine lace and cloud! of chiffon,
boredom la impossible.
'PHIS veiling process la a trick
from a shrewd designer's
bag. It half reveals and half con
ceals. and Ih all_cases give* a
soft and gracloua effect that flat
ten beauty. Perhapa the strong
est argument in favor of the uae
of tails and lace, ia that all men
are auaceptible to the lure and the
charm of the myaterioua veil. And
even red, a color not agreeable to
many men, ia aoftened and changed
tyr the addition of raauve lace or
atnoke-grey and silver tulle.
In direct opposition to this flut
tering softness, are the statuesque
robes that derive their dignified
charm through the careful use and
selection of draped velvets, softly
buckled crepe, and through the
use of the cloth of Queens, the
magnificent metal clotha. When
a matron chooses a white chiffon
velvet, wonderfully draped over an
underskirt of black Chantllly lace,' |
allows no aleeves. and relieves the
creamy sheen of the straight llnca
by a huge, black flower, then poise
and dignity are assured.
Jewels make for dignity also.
So a modiste In search of trim
ming to fit In with the desired
statuesque mode, plans a gown
The Universal
Expressive of every
sentiment?welcome on
all occasions?all sea
sons. Flowers hold ui
disputed sway as the
bearer of messages par
And nowhere are flowers more beautiful?more fra
grant, than those tenderly nurtured in the Gude
Greenhouses! , . %
rkMN cdif ijjiiii
from lavender velvet, drupes it in
'the moat simplified, yet artistic
of folds, and string* diamonds for
shoulder straps.
Fur is a happy thought and
makes conversation more Inter
esting In the complex hours
around midnight. Oold lace pan
els decide to end in hands of sa
ble. Black velvet takes on a re
gal air when It fsvor* ermine as
adornment. Yellow chiffon loves
U> border the Victorneckline
.with hands of skunk, and then, as
If relurtant to part without trior
f*r, borders tlje silver mksd.
that Mtfi'vcn an u bodice trimming .
with matching fur.
? 0 >" ? - N
'J'RAINB are a??n more this your,
on evening gowns than for
noVPial years past. Even the
square train of twenty seasons
ago is smiled upon. On tratna
the use of fur to aerve as an an
chor for, the filmy and fragile
lengths, is u|panunt. Klowera and
pearls, and combinations of both,
also ride about on the trailing and
uncertain end of other trains.
On* French gown struts about
with a Ion a, pointed train, hnr
, platinum fox.
The ?Jttreiiiea of the evening
gown form an amusing subject.
Now that trains are envogiu>,
the decolletage becomes quite
daring. Strictly low necks In
both front and hack are quit*1
.usual for hoth theatre and general
wear. Many of the dresses ftal!
In a class that heretofore ha 4
been associated only with /if
most formal of occasions
A striking faUure of the eve
ning coatwme la that It Is llkaly
t? have a skirt of one color nn-1
rh?* iMHterlBl end ?ortatt> of
'' ? v-1- ?1?
. combination)!. are unusual, and
lovely. ^ . f , ?
VELVET8 that seem to lead the
Kowni of the' wee, small
hours, run the color gamut, in
cluding black and white. And
oddly enough, yet In keeping with
a brown year. somber tones ari
quite In demand. Dead leaf,
old-leather brown, and all the
copper trtnea In lace, velvet and
even metal clothes are f*<sq??nt1y
seen Oreen Is the nearest rival
for the Krwwnsv cv.tsnfcn and
?'?"<?? <1 are tb? two tfcversd.
It'a all very bemusing., a*
Fashion, of course, Intended.
N * * *
T*HE Jacket la a sightly thins
with llnea filched from
the Chinese. It la straight to the
walat, or a thought below, and
there It ends. The fabric la silver
cloth embroidered aolidly with a
arrange little leaf pattern; blue,
green, gold, and red, set stiffly
in rows with a thread ^f black
The front closing is splashed
with the color of flame in the
globe-shaped buttons-which run up
to the deep, rounded, sable collar.
A close-fitting little bat of the
same embroidered silver makes up
a set. The brim is sable, with a
cluster jot tails at the left side.
? > ?
AND oh the other hat* I saw!
One with a brim surely pat
terned for an open umbrella, such
was its width and state of droopl
And made of seal! Heavy and
furry and overwhelming!
But the crown was narrow
strips of silver ribbon faggoted to
gether w^lth. qJJ ver thread. The
faggoting vu wide, so a full h<^f
inch space was left for airing
Madame's hair.
There was a goldsn satin rose
the size of a cabbage to add weight
to the brim.
Another model suite as astonish
ing was small aa the first was
large. A broad band of silver
tissue was the bulwark of this.
It wound itself fiercely round the
head at an agle to cover the fore
head and tops of cars.
But Its promise of guardianship
Boon was broken, for the crown
was covered by a vague bit of
silver colored tulle.
A Mercury wing of rhinestones
perched at the right of the-front
contributed a dash of mystery.
? ? ?
J^ THIRD hat. Infinitely less
bizarre than the others, but,
to my mind. equally more
charming, was copied by our
great copyist from that certain
little corner of Central Park,
where a clump of evergreens
hobnob with a beech whose
leaves have turned orange.
It was a reasonable xhape of
cedar-green velvet, with the
brim rolling ever so slightly
here and there.
And about the crown, so that
It laid flufflly upon and over
the brim and fell from one side
wan an ostrich feather of cedar
green and orange.
shoe inconsistency. Fashion
slyly works up a little more
than enough of something, such
as the four-and-a-half inch heel
on the,- ultra new shoe?the
Florentine, i
After which she allows uni
formity to go by the boards by
undergoing something else, such
as the sides of the shoe which
are mere ribbed skeletons.
The Florentine, in fact, is
little more than a heel and
shallow toe. placed at opposite
en<ls of a soK The entire re
maining portion is a series of
A strap runs from the toe to
another that crosses the bare In
step and further connects with tw>
or three ankle straps.
Smart models'are made of color
ed leather with straps of black
patent leather. For dress they art
satin or brocade in various shades j
and the straps are gold or silver
set with jewels. '
The heels flash like columns 01
incandescent light, since they ur *
encrusted with rlpnestones or in
tation emeralds or rubles.
"Sheik" is anpther novelty. This,
too, la largely straps, winding the
ankles and crossing the Instep.
The toes are opepwork, the heels
lower than those on other models
and the materials patent leaih-i
Then there is the oxford whit'.'
looks like a waneing memory ot
the oldftime shoe of the type, sin< t
straps of hair-line width form the
sides, the back fc-top the tall Louim
heels, and the double pieces in
front through which a satin ribbon,
ponderous by comparison, is laced
Renee Jackets .are usually
rather long, resulting in almo?'
a tunic effect over the nano"
skirts, and are girdled at the hips
in'easy fashion. Sleeves are long
and widen slightly toward the
wrists, where they are finished
' with great fur cuffs. The coa
skirls fall straight or flare a trifle
on the sides. Often the back of/
the coat Is drawn so tightly aboin
the hips that it results jn a blotiseii
effect above the low waist Un? I
Rather wide girdle-ends are at
tached on each side at the hips sii'l
tie on the left side in front. whei >
the coat laps well to the left sld<
? ? ?
there's the matter of
Renee Features.
y ' -
Glorious Raiment
For the New Season!
NEW materials, new -
colors, new trim- "
mings combine to express
refreshing originality.
?_ Chic hats, unusually at
tractive gowns, suits and
coats are a few of the
articles always on display
here at surprisingly low
Whatever be your taste,
a visit will convince you
that we are prepared to
gratify it.
921 6WST.RW.

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