Newspaper Page Text
fm '& U. .ý ® ý U Written for the Sunday Standard. Never was there such a variety in the shapes of hats. It is impossible even to mention their variations and their widely differing aspects. Among the quaintest is the shape with the funny little high crown and the cur tain-like band downward from the the edge of the brim. You can behold it in our large illustration this week, aot failing to notice its rows of stitch ing and its fringed scarf. .These stitch ed velvet, cloth and felt hats are a tre mendous success, not solely, let us hope, because they are new, but be .ause the broken lights and shades caused by the stitching are very be comining. Heretofore there has been a hardness about the felt hat which has been a serious objection. It was be coming only to the fresh, young face. but now all the handsome new felts are, as I have said, stitched, or they are pressed into ridges which simulate the overlapping of wide straw braid, and women of all ages can wear them. These hats need but little trimming and are a real triumph of the design er's skill. Beaver brown was the chic wear of Paris last year and will be the general wear there this year. It is a high novelty with us. however, ,and as such it must be noted that pale blue and mauve and certain shades of pink are the accessories most charm ing thereto. Of outing hats there are an infinite variety also. For these, to my mind, there is no prettier taimming than the gay bandanna handkerchiefs, or the silks in bandanna patterns. Autumn ltlouses. Quite the latest fad in the making of the cotton or silk shirts is to have gathered tucks. This sounds some what extraordinary, but is extremely pretty in effect. The tucks are run perpendicularly, but instead of being kept flat the cotton is pulled slightly with the result that the tucks flute and stand out a little, while the back ground is puckered. A shirt of glace silk in old rose tint lookedevery dainty made thus, and in the thinner fabrics, such as chiffon, mousseline, batiste, it is especially pretty and certainly far more easily accomplished than when each tuck had to be kept so very flat and smooth. Another new notion is to have the tucks so infinitesimal that, except when in the hand, they do not look like tucks at all. They are absolutely no- wider than the pin-point striBes on materials with which we are all familiar. They are not placed very near together, and the general effect is just a rippled ap pearance. One sees that the material is now plain, and yet-and yet-what - is it? A query only 'to be answered when the shirt is handled. Then there are 'the craquele silks, woven to pro duce the same effects. Entire blouses are made of this silk, with soft jabot draperies of the silk meeting in the center of the front and extending to the waist line. Cordings. I ventured to predict a short time ago, would come greatly into favor again in rivalry of the ever pres ent tucks. My prophecy is now work ing out its own confirmation, and with very happy results. A beautiful blouse, hailing from one of the great "houses" in Paris, had a yoke and vest of ma genta velvet, corded in similar fashion round the throat and in semi-circles down the front. Over-this came the lace bodice, mounted upon magenta silk, and long, unlined lace sleeves. The harshness of the velvet was relieved by erratically arranged failings of lace. For "a wear and tear" blouse noth ing can be prettier or more enduring than that of good soft silk, made quite simply with sailor collar and separate vest. One in cornflower blue had sets of upright tucks back and front; the collar was of the same silk, edged with a kilting to match, but beyond was an other kilted frill of white silk. The tucked vest, collar and sailor knot were also of white, and were detachable. A good idea was here carried out by an economically-minded woman who knew well by b'tter experience that, though the blue silk would go through many adventures without showing signs of age, the white would become pitiably dowdy very quickly. She was by no means a wealthy woman, but could not endure "dirty finery," so that, when packing into her "dainty box," as she called it, went two extra vests, one of white and one of pale blue, each with ready-kilted frills and ends for the sailor bow. For a moment I did not see the drift of the kiltings, but with a little amused smile upon her face, she explained that she always had the white frills only tacked in, so that they were easily removed and replaced by Five Smart Autumn Blouses. 1. White flannel shirt blouse with tucks and flat gold buttons for closing. 2. Dainty home blouse of pastel blue crepe de Laine. The collar and waistband are of corn flower blue velvet; the added points at the throat are of white taffeta. 3. Checked poplin with white poplin yoke and strappings. 4. Elegant blouse of faint green taffeta, with vest of white faille, with border of green taffeta. The edges are ornamented with handsome buttons and button holes. The plastron and collar band are of pleated white chiffon. 5. Tan peau de soie blouse with white faille yoke and plastron edged with fringe. the fresh ones, which had been made to fit exactly. It is a clever woman who can com bine cotton with woolen fabrics success fully; they are so diametrically op posed in all their characteristics that it needs an accomplished peacemaker to effect anything like a reconciliation. Hence it is obvious that when done, the result is smart and original. Tweed and batiste is a queer combination, and not altogether satisfactory, though I have seen a tailor-built coat and skirt of the former "strapped" with the flimsier material. Tabs are coming very much to the fore just now-not so much in castel 9... .·. .~·, .: *`1r - &·. 3·:'.~ I'o -'q~~*' Chi Milnr o uunadWne er lated form as for the purposes of fast ening. A princess robe, made of the new curious gray-tinted cloth, had a pointed yoke of material perpendicu larly striped with black ribbon velvet, and was from thence fastened all down the left side to within six inches of the ground by tabs that interlaced with each other in an intricate but fas cinating manner. These were cut in one with the gown, but each was vel vet edged and was buttoned down Into position by a tiny crystal button at the extreme point. Below these three rows of the velvet encircled the skirt, from which radiated lines of the vel vet, each ending in a chou bow of the came. The sleeves were tight fitting and plain, except that just on the shoul der the fabric was decorated to match the yoke. A queer little bolero was that which met across the chest in strict plainness. showing some inches of the bodice be neath, both at the neck and waist. It was of boldly figured material, and had sleeves and skirt to match, the bodice being of black accordeon-pleated chiffon, with a full, soft collar of white tulle. I must not forget to mention the sudden craze for plain wool gowns, elaborately trimmed with strappings cf taffeta of the same, or a contrasting shade. These bands are quite wide and have five or six rows of stitching. Our artist is sketching one of these gowns for you. It will appear next week and will also illustrate the extremely nar row skirts which are just making their appearance. These are English, not French, but seem to please our smart women immensely. Of dainty breakfast and tea gowns I have not yet had space to speak for the weeks, and a number' of prait5117 have arisen In the Interim. If theri one garment more Indis pensalbe than another to the carefully woman, It Is the neglige gown that Is smart enough to be worn in the pres ence of friends, and yet is cool and comfortable. The tea gown is so adapt ive; its shades of smartness and elab oration can be arranged to a nicety, its fabric and design fitting with ex actitude the niche in life which it is to occupy. Our French cousins realize this with perhaps greater finesse than we, and it is as well to "take a leaf out of their book" on the subject. It is in the loose, somewhat dishabille toilette that the French talent shows the best advantage: there it is tram meled by little or no rules, and fancy may take its flight into the realms of almost audacious originality. The soft materials that will hang gracefully are much to be preferred to the richer, more important silks and velvets that refuse to give up their will to that of the modiste. The China silks in art shades are perfect and combine ex cellently with fine laces and embroid eries. One of pale rose tint was made to hang absolutely plainly down the front from the chest, it being fastened on the left side, where it was scalloped to match the base of the skirt. At the back the great quantity of fullness was merely gathered into a small yoke, whence it fell away into a demi-train. Over the shoulders was arranged a Marie Antoinette fichu of white chiffon, caught together in the front by a huge chou bow of black velvet. The scal lops of the gown were edged by nar row ecru gulpure lace, and a spray of daisies were embroidered on each. The sleeves were chiffon, ruched from shoulder to elbow. Another pretty de sign had an inner and tight-fitting robe of gii elk4 P. r tits r tocaaliae soft, }ilklti stcl , coveting the bpo. and' skirt es tdrely, save for a few tinhea at the front. The plain silk was carted up the front of the bodice on either side and gathered in a chou knot on, the shotilders, thus leaving the figured silk exposed as a wide vest and under the arms. The back was arranged in a Wa~tteau pleat, whilst a little belt of passementerie held the fronts in po sition. The most expressive colors are all shades of pink, from delicate pastel rose to a glowing cerise, and all va rieties of mauve. These, for no very good reason, seem the happiest tints. Blue Is somewhat cold, red is the color of ill-omen, green belongs to the green eyed monster, while rose is the color of youth and hope, said to be beloved of the angels, and the antidote for the weariness of the common round, the daily task, whilst mauve is ,the color of reflpement, though it is said one should never trust a woman who hab itually wears ~lauve. In conclusion, I must say that if a woman does not seem to belong to her tea gown she had better eschew file garment altogether, even though it be the most beautiful in fashion's list.. SHE WEARS AN ARMY SUIT. goman Colonel Noted in the Eneamp ment of G. A. R. Probably the most interesting par :icipant in the recent national encamp nent of the Grand Army of the Re )ubllic at Philadelphia was Colonel Mil le Eldridge. Colonel Eldridge is, with )ut doubt, the handsomest member of he Grand Army of the Republic seen n these parts since the inception of the irder. The excursion party with which the is traveling came from southern iessouri and Arkansas, "the land of the Dig red apple," and, appropriately _nough, the excursion is called "the big 'ed apple" excursion. It was the unani nous opinion of the throngs at Union Itation that "the big red apple" excur sionists had among their number a 'peach," and that peach was Colonel Eldridge. Colonel Eldridge is not yet 20 years old. She is a very pretty girl, with a [ace a perfect oval, regular features, a lelicate, peachy complexion, large, clear blue eyes and a luxuriant mass of chestnut hair above an intellectual brow. She is of medium height and has a good figure, which her natty mili tary uniform sets off to excellent ad vantage. She is a fluent and entertain ing talker, The colonel is the daughter of Major J. T. Eldridge of Springfield, Mo., an old G. A. R. veteran, who is with her on the trip. She has been honored by her state as but young women have throughout the country. She has been officially ac knowledged as the daughter of the Mis souri department G. A. R., adopted as a sister by the Sons of Veterans and elected a member of the Woman's Re lief corps, being the youngest woman ever elected to that organization. She was elected to the Missouri de partment in 1894 and honored with the title of colonel, which entitles her to wear the uniform indicative of her rank. In 1897 she was formally adopted as a sister by the Sons of Veterans, and this spring she was elected a member of the Woman's Relief Corps Auxiliary. Missouri was the first Grand Army of the Republic department in the union to officially adopt a daughter, and the Sons of Veterans of that state the first to adopt a sister. The members of these orders in the state are proud of this distinction, and Springfield is es pecially flattered at the honors show ered upon its lair daughter. When Colonel Eldrldge was officially acknowledged by Missouri, other states were quick to follow the example, and at present tfbre are "daughters" and "sisters" in nine states of the union. Although she is naturally very proud of the honrs, bestowed ulpon her, the "colonel" wears them very modestly, and in conversing upon topics connect ed with the various orders of which she is a member, never obtrudes her own individuality. A reporter had the pleasure of a few minutes' chat with the pretty colonel just before the excursion train pulled out for Philadelphia. She was feeling very ill from the combined effects of travel, but when her father introduced the reporter, she stood up, grasped his hand cordially and smiled a welcome, the flush on her cheeks like that on the cheeks of the luscious red apples of her native section. The reporter observed, by way of an opening, that he had half-way expected to see her in uniform. "Oh, no," she replied, smiling still. "That would attract too much attention altogether, which is distasteful to me. Besides, you know, the blouse is rather -well, snug-fitting, you understand, and understand-and it would only add to my discomfort while traveling. And then, again, I only wear it on state oc casions, such as encampments and the like. But perhaps you would like to see it? Shall I put it on to show you hoa I look in it?" "Oh, pease do," assented the reporter, expectantly. "It Is the regulation military uniforlm of a colonel," she observed, opening the satchel containing it. "That is, of I ii rr Lon Coa With U DietorCps t LngCot ith iecor Cps course," she added archly, "all except the-er-well, of course, I'Wear a skirt." When she had donned the military blouse; cap, belt and sword and gaunt lets and stood ereCt, she was a be witching figure and looked infinitely handsome in the natty uniform, with the cap tilted rakishly on her curly head. After the newspaper man's eyes became watery from admiring her she doffed the uniform and returned it to the satchel. "Do you intend to participate in the big parade at Philadelphia?" she was asked. "I did intend to," she replied, "but I am afraid I shall have to forego that pleasure now. It was arranged that I should carry the flag of the Missouri department anrd ride with the officers. I find, however, that the Woman's Re lief corps will have a great deal of work on their hands and their sessions are likely to prevent our participating in the parade. There is an election of officers to be held and I am so greatly interested in the success of several of the candidates that I shall devote all of my time to the sessions of that or ganisation." LINCOLN AND MRS. SPRAGUE. Why the President Was Late at Kate Chase's Wedding. Washington people never tire of talk ing of the brilliant woman whose re cent death recalled her early promi nence in national affairs, Kate Chase Sprague. An artist in the capital who was domiciled in the White house when Miss Chase was married is responsible for 'the following: "Everybody in the capital," he said, "was excited over the marriage of Kate Chase to Governor Sprague of Rhode Island. She was the most decided per sonality in Washington, for, besides be ing a great belle and conversational ist, It was known that she was a great power behind Secretary Chase's ambi tions. "She knew politics well and talked ably on subjects that often baffled men. "President Lincoln was very fond of her. "Her sprightliliness and wttty good humor delighted the keenly humorous The Standard of the g19th century. "Easefelt" shoes are bought and bought again on their true merit, and not because the name has a pleasing ring to it. A good name will not cover up poor quality. "Easefelt" shoes have the best in their construction possible for money to buy. Fer Sale by M J. CONNELL CO: Butte philosopher, and he dearly loved to 'get her started' and make her talk. "He was much interested in her mar riage and looked forward to the advent of the week with eagerness. "She was to have a magnificent wed ding, and he, as chief magistrate, was to be the principal feature of the ev ening, after the bride and groom. "Mr. Chase was his secretary of was and the other cabinet officers were to follow the president. "Mr. Lincoln was detained until hale, an hour before the wedding he went rapidly to his room, found It locked, and knocked. " 'What do you want?' asked Mrs, Lincoln, from inside. " 'I want to get in,' he answered; 'are you nearly dressed? for it is late.' "'You can't come in," was the ans wer: I am sleeping." "'Arn't you dressed yet?' "'I do not intend to dress.' "'Arn't you going to the wedding?e "'Whose wedding?' "'Miss Chase's, of course.' "'Oh! so it is her wedding night. No, I am not going.' "Her tone was so final that the presi dent evidently decided not to expostu late on the subject, but begged that he be let in to dress himself. "'I won't be disturbed,' she said 'It is not necessary for you to go to Kate Chase's wedding.' "'But I must go,' he said. 'It is an affair of national importance and my absence would be commented upon by every paper in the land. They will de lay the ceremony until I appear. You know this. Please let me in. I have only 15 minutes.' "There was no answer. "Finally the president said, 'I will have the door unlocked. You must let me in.' "'I will not let you in,' she said, 'but I'll throw you your clothes," and she threw the clothes out into the hall, olie by one, taking quite as long as pos sible. "When she finished the president had to brksh his hair and change his clothes in an adjoining room, belonging to his secretary, I believe, the doorkeeper helping him as much as possible. "Whether she was jealous of Miss Chase no one ever knew. The affair might have arisen from her being ip~g n eccentric turn of mind."