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AX AMERICAS HEIBBSS ABROAD.
PAULINE, DACGHTBR OF UII.UAM WALDORF ASTOR, REPORTED TO HE EMU.VGbD TO THE DIKE OF ROXBURGH. THE TRAINING OF AN HEIRESS. The Marvelous Adroit Methods by Which She Is Brought to the Perfection of a Society Belle. LONDON. Dec. lit*, -in the train ing of an heiress great rigidity of dis cipline is absolutely necessary. An ipitobiographist has recently said; ’That a girl’s mother lias not the hard ness of heart to train a beautiful heir ess successfully, and that her beauty received her correct training only from having a weak, insistent and foolish mother.” That the business of traveling gov ernesses has grown to bo an important one. and that nowadays a governess and chaperon are Usually combined is forcibly demonstrated by the passenger lists of European travel. That this is a proud post gladly THREE COSTUMES FOR “LADIES* DAY,” THE DAY AFTER NEW YEAR’S DAY. THESE I'll KTT V I ALl,l>r. TOII.KITKB ARE MADE ATTRACTIVE BV THEIR SOFT CHIFFON (iiKMTI HKS (By a Professional Companion.) I accepted by the finest ladies of lltera i ture and society, and —not least —that j another great heiress is to be intro duced into society to dazzle the eyes and tempt the affections of suitors is a feature of great importance to the average chaperon. AN ART. The business of chaperoning has i become such an art that those who take it up call it The training of an heir ess." It embraces proper chaperonage around the world, the introduction to I court circles and every educational ad -1 vantage. ; To chaperon an heiress a thorough 1 knowledge of the ettiquette of all f The Woman of 1899. | countries Is an absolute Imperative, and the thousand personal graces and delicate refinement of accent that are the marks of fine breeding and worthy wealth. Little wonder that society women of not very great fortunes ac cept such posts and smaller wonder that none but those of extra attain ments can fill them. The question of dress which Is sup posed to play a large part in the life of an heiress is little mentioned by the chaperon. The young woman is impressed with the idea that muslins and woolens are all, absolutely all, she can wear until her debut, and after that she is only a lay figure in the hands of her tailor. She is strictly kept from putting on ribbons or ornaments, and unless she is a vain young woman she soon learns this lesson and is quite serious in her garb as all foreign girls are until that eventful time, the debut. The matter of food is a delicate one with the chaperon. She is a wom an herself with a grown up liking for salads and course dinners. With her, as constant companion, is a young lady for whom she is responsible in looks, digestion, tastes and appetite. By self-denial on her own part, and by severity to the young lady in charge—who may be a woman of 18 — she keeps her down to a diet of cereals, vegetables and meat. Her drinks are lemonade, if she is fat, and milk if she is thin. She has no ices, nor creams and candy is for her a totally forbidden thing. PROFESSIONAL WORK. The business of professional chap eroning is kept so very secret that very few ever hear of it. The chaperons themselves are very difficult to obtain, as they require a great deal before ac cepting—social position, intelligence, good disposition and congeniality — but once accepted there is never a word said afterwards about the rela tive positions of the two. They are for the year practically mother and daughter. Once in Europe the young girl be comes nobody immediately. She is a “little girl.’’ the childish charge of a chaperon, and as such she is invited to visit certain places at certain times. But she goes to no dinner parties, and she dances at no balls. Her chaperon, to maintain her own social position, may be obliged to ac cept such invitations, but the yvealthy young charge remains at home to be put to bed at 8 o’clock. In America she has led a gay life, but on the Con tinent she is a little girl again and must accept her lot as the price of a later acquaintance with British and Continental nobility. The chaperon is entertained at luncheon, and here the young charge may go. She rebels at the limited skirt just below her boot tops, and the round waists that are furnished her — she who has been queening it at Bar Harbor, in crinoline and lace ali sum mer. But it is no use to complain. The English will consider her a lit tle girl until her debut and presenta tion at court. After luncheon the “lit tle girl” is sent to inspect the art gal lery. A catalogue is furnished her as a souvenir and she knows that later in the day her chaperon will ask her about the styles of this or of that paint ing, and she will have to answer. According to rules, she massages each inch of complexion every night, and is carefully guardful of the ice water dash for slenderness. She speaks not a word of English, and opens her eyes in well-bred surprise if the Ameri can madamoiselle speaks to her in any language but French. By and by, though the American girl does not know it. there will be a German maid, and later an Italian, and a French. In this way she will keep up her languages beyond mistake. A DEADLY ROUTINE. Mornings, as a special favor, the wide awake American girl who under stands a flirtation upon the beach and a shopping trip with a fine lunch, is invited as a special favor to “study” in Lady Somebody’s nursery, with her ladyship’s big sleepy-eyed, rosy-cheeked English daughters. The heiress gets a fair return for her money, aiid the chaperon comes home if tired and worn out with the long strain of “training an heiress” abundently rewarded in a monetary way. The sum o& money charged for professional ehapdronage is like that of a good wife “beyond rubies.” There is no fixed figure, and *he amount is a confidential matter be tween the guardian of the girl and the chaperon. A millionaire’s widow offer ed the widow of a President $500,000 and expenses to take her daughter to Germany for a year. “It would do her good,’’ urged the millionaire’s widow. “I cannot take her,” said the Presi dent’s widow. “My influence depends upon the personality of the girls I am to introduce abroad.” Queen Victoria recognizes the pro fessional introducer very cordially. There are three ladies of title now in London who introduce desirable Ameri can heiresses at court every winter, and her Majesty has the utmost confidence in their propriety of selection. English girls are seldom chaperoned through America by friends. But here the newness of the archi tecture and the lack of “history” makes a journey less an educator of the world’s great events. A journey abroad under a chaperon is the top notch of culture and the heiress so fortunate as to secure it is sure of a quick place in society. A NEW FAD JJOGDOM. Fido May Now Sit on His Hind Legs and Exhibit a Tattooed Neck Decoration. F:>r years the world of fashion fol io wee the rapid pace set by Mrs. Fred erick Gebhard in the world of dogdom. Her pets were the sleekest, the most accomplished and the best groomed dogs of the South, where they were raised—for Miss Morris was a South ern girl—or of the North, where they spent their summers. Now, for lack cf a fashion leader, the owners of pet dogs must look all THE TATTOOED DOG. over the world and borrow the newest and prettiest from the dogs of all na tions, as it were. Lady Brassey’s poodles were the first “parted” dogs in London, and the Princess of "Wales had the first trick fox terrier of the drawing-room, but THE WIPE OF NANSEN IN NORTH POLE COSTUME. MRS NANSEN'S WAY OF SPENDING A LONELY HOLIDAY. since then fashions and manners have been made for dogs until one’s pet must arise early and study all day long in order to be as up-to-date as the rest of the dog world. The very latest for pet dogs is the monogram which is tattooed upon the animal in some conspicuous spot to be come a permanent mark of ownership and personality. The favorite tattoo is a monogram which is placed upon the dog's breast just below his ollar bone. Either his own monogram, cr that of his mis tress, is used, and a fancy scroll work may or may not be placed around it. To get the monogram upon the dog’s breast a professional tattooer is employed, who works with a sharp nee dle. pricking the pigments into the tender skin, antil it is perfectly tat tooed. There are several professionals who make a specialty of this work, and can tattoo a very pretty monogram in a very few minutes. The process is necessarily painful, but so keen is the dog to any improvement upon himself that he patiently endures the pain. Many professional tattooers are now working upon pet dogs, being quick to see that there is money in the work just at present. They make regular appointments, and call to see the vic tim at the set time. He. poor fellow-, having been exercised and fed, is found nicely warmed, in a comfortable blan ket. ready to be w orked upon. At first the dog shows by mm signs that he does not like the feel? r of the needle, but on being admoni ed by his mis tress he subsides and atiently endures the tattoo without a ;rowl. Next day the tattooer calls tr see the patient, and. if the work is complete, allows him his liberty again. Otherwise he is worked upon further and kept in warm quarters, with the finest and softest fo .and furnished him at inter vals. as though he were a baby. J. T g!y desrs are slow to tattoo, be cause tic v will not allow the tattooer to prick then more than once or twice; so he must make a great many trips and even then <he monogram is ragged and out of shape. Fox terriers are the most patient of all. No owner of a fine dog allows other than professional hands to touch her pet. and a monogram for Fido Is as expensive us one for his mistress. MRS. NANSEN’S LONELYHOLIDAY. She Sings Xew Year Ballads While He Hunts for the North Pole. The loneliest, coldest Xew Year's days on record are spent by Frau Nan sen, who sings carols in her Norwegian home while her explorer kusband searches far away for the North pole. Yet Mrs. Nansen sings gladly for she knows that she is carolling in obedience to him, as well as for the joy of the earth. When Dr. Nansen married Eva Sars, ten years ago, it was agreed be tween them that there should be no material change in the methods of their lives. The husband was to continue his work of exploration, and the wife was to teach music, as she had done for years. This plan they have pursued with few exceptions. Sometimes Mrs. Nansen has accompanied her husband in his winter skee runs in the moun tains and valleys of Norway, and she has frequently threatened to go with him to the Arctic regions, but he has persuaded her to stay at home. So she has let him go without her, and when he is away she teaches music and cares for her little daughter. Life, or as the Norwegians call It, Liv. Liv’s father left her once when she was only a baby and for months her mother did not know whether he was alive or not. The Nansen home is at Christiania, Norway, It is a beautiful house at the' foot of a wmoded hill, with fair mead ows and fragrant pine woods, and is an Ideal retreat for one whose life work takes him away Into the bleak cheerlessness of Northern winters so often The home is called Godthaab Villa. Frau Nansen has the reputation of being the finest ballad singer in Nor way. She is a petite woman of brunette beauts’ - , a woman who would be hand some anywhere, among any people. She dresses in the latest Parisian styles. Her house is filled with works of art and curiosities from all parts of the world, including trophies of Dr. Nan sen’s Greenland and other explorations and his many medals. The house is constructed of pine wood trunks of trees, giving it a most picturesque ap pearance, inside as well as out. The furniture harmonizes with it. There are the carved dragons’ heads of the Norse people in the furni ture, as well as in the projections of the house itself, for the Nansens love the Norse; and one is taken back to the days of mediaevalism. as one enters this ancient shelter of modern science. The most modern thing in it is the grand piano that stands in the centre of the parlor. This piano has all the latest improvements, and Mral Nanssn plays it exquisitely. Although her husband is away from her so much, this brave little woman makes the best of it. She knew before marriage that her husband had a life work before him, and that she must be prepared to make sacrifices in the cause of science. She makes them and complains not. although she \would be less than a woman did she not wish that some day her husband would feel that he has done enough for the world and w-ould rest in peace for the balance of his daj-s by his own hearthstone. NO WRINKLES. Wrinkles come from a drying out of the skin, and a dr}* massage will make wrinkles while a proper massage will do away with them. A prominent authority on facial treatment says: “Six drops of olive oil, carefully massaged about the face and throat, left on over night, and washed off with tepid water and no soap In the morning, will do wonders In the way of holding at bay those tell-tale wrinkles that ail women dread. The treatment should be repeated every third night, unless it is found that this makes the skin too oily, when a little longer interval may be observed. Use the tips of the fingers and stroke the oil In gently and firmly. + A LUNCHEON DRINK. A pleasant drink at luncheons, where women do not drink wine, is made from orange juice treated with fruits. The juice is served In tall glasses and is undiluted. Into each glass Is dropped four slices of banana, a Tokay grape cut and seeded, a slice from a tart apple, and a pinch of sugar. The drink, of course. Is intended to be sipped through the courses and may be the only one served. A pre served cherry and slice of canned peach or any other pretty fruit can be usmL THE NEW USES OF CHIFFON. Very Effective Way of Dressing Up a Plain Home Hod ice. NEW YEAR DAY WAISTS. Simple Knffle> < f hiffcm Become Glorified Under the Electric Lights. FEATHERS USED WITH CHIFFON. NEW YORK, Dec. 2S.—The old year is out and the new year is in. Dame fashion has packed her trunk and will take away with her many a fad and many a foible of the old year’s style of dressing. The big puffed cL ■ sleeves are buried in the trunk under the light 3 r ard skirts, and the crinoline is heaped on top of both. Dame fash ion is busy unpacking the new modes which are exceptionally pretty. For dressy occasions, and for even ing use, she has quantities of chiffon, soft, silky stuff, which is most decora tive. It is ty?ed upon waists for drap ery, ruffles and trimmings. On capes chiffons are much seen and neck or naments are as numerous as the sands of the sea. RECEPTION WAISTS. For New Year Day reception, chif fon is indispensible. Asa hostess of 40 expressed it. standing under the searching electric lights of a big chan delier; “a few yards of eh Ilf on will do a great deal for one in a trying situa tion.” Upon young trim figures with fresh faces it is lovely to a degree. For house waists the favorite trim ming is the ruffle which Is used very freely. Waists are ruffled from stock to yoke, and the vest is covered with soft frills of chiffon. For house use FOK THE WOMAN \V HO KIKES CHIFFON. \L j3 M / C-JF ' % and f:-" -*, ft VS' -7 'A ,7 \ c^- THE SOFTEST OF CHIFFON KfTECTI an waist an he made into anew one hv the use rf chiffon • The easiest way is to cover the waist entirely, but a dressier way is to ru-fle ft. it is the season of ail day enter tainmeuts stretching from a morning “read! .g to a grand opera matinee, and. going from one to another, leaves very little time for changing a gown, so milady dons a chiffon collarette and muff. With her severest tailormade gown it gives the air of a frou-frou creation. ■ The chiffon muffs are the latest fad. Of course they are made of satin and padded, but so covered with chif fon that at first glance one thinks how femininely inconsistent they are. Chif fon to keep one's hands warm! With them are used jewelled chains or ! strings of tiny pearls. The very quaintest one was made of owlet feathers, white chiffon and the most exquisite artificial orchi ls— the delicate mauve ones. The boa was ■ a band of the downy feathers, be , tween deep ruchings of white chiffon. About six Inches from each end was tied one large orchid. The vest ac companying was a full blouse effect of white chiffon and mauve ribbon. A MODISH HAT A-\D BOA. BECOMING TO A LONG, THIST NECK. The dear little muff which hung by a pearl and silver chain was made of mauve satin, but almost covered with the soft brown owlet feathers, and an owl’s head with great round eyes peered solemnly from the chiffon ruffles and mauve orchids. Avery smart ruche was of white tulle, very full and edged with large black chenille dots. White and black promise to be worn most, and, even In the ostrich boas, one sees a short white boa with black tips and white uncurled feather ends. Next in favor is black and violet. For instance, a small cape of black ostrich feathers and jetted black tulle had a single violet ostrich tip placed on the left side. Very odd indeed are the yoke ruffles shown in all the delicate evening shades. They are simply two chiffon ruffles, hung bv satin ribbons which are tied on the shoulders, and the ruffles fall yoke length back and front and over the sleeves. MARY GOODWIN HUBBELL.