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In Woman's l^ealm
Success of One-Piece Dress Well Established, and Now Begins Exer cise of Ingenuity in Designing Variations So That This Frock Won't Become Monotonous—Chat on Sports Clothes, When to Wear and What Materials Should Go into Garments. The success of the one-piece dress goes without saying—It is already a thing of history. And now begins the exercise of ingenuity in ringing changes on this one predominant theme, so that the one-piece dress may run no risk of becoming monotonous. This has already been done with so much cleverness that the one-piece WELL-TAILORED ONE-PIECE DRESS. dress is farther away from simplicity than any other and we are looking for further surprises. Here Is a frock of eerge, trimmed with silk- braid, that scorns all in tricacies fn construction or decoration. > It presents its straight lines, almost unbroken from shoulder to hem, and Its even rows of braid, sure of com pelling admiration. The devotee of the tailored suit will be easily recon ciled to this aspirant for favors, in place of the skirt and coat that have held first place so long. The usual order of things is re versed in this skirt, for it Is fulled into the waist at the front and back, ;while the panels at the sides are jplaln. The short bodice follows the lines of the natural figure, and a belt is simulated by parallel rows of braid stitched at the waistline. It [fastens at the left side with snap fasteners and has an open throat that Accommodates a plain white collar [which may be of organdie or crepe. [The sleeves are plain and are not nar t wed or widened at the wrist. This in keeping with their finish of clean -cut rows of braid. Large, flat pockets i«t each side of the skirt are covered ■ (? SPORTS SUIT8 IN 8PECIAL WEAVES. with braid and bound with It. In the beet manner of the tailor. "Well-tail ored" is written on this straightfor ward, businesslike dress. In its fine adjustment to the figure, and in the precision and faultlessness of work manship which commend it Sports clothes are a new dispensa tion and they have brought about a •** order of things. Special goods are and more luxurious. But their elegance woven for them, special designs in these goods and in other goods are made for them, and these designs are made up in special ways. Sports clothes are spirited, ultra modern, ex pressive of the woman of today, and more or less elegant. They are be coming—like everything else—more Is not measured by the richness of ma terial used. It seems that the, term "sports clothes" Is destined to cover attire for all outdoor life—or at least that sports clothes will hardly be considered out of place anywhere out of doors. They appear to have made for themselves a permanent place. One of the new fabrics used for sports suits Is shown above. It has a silky crepelike surface, substantial weight and durability. It is one of several new fabrics, each with a name of Its own, that have made a place for themselves which promises to be en during. In the suit pictured, the skirt is made of a cross-barred pattern in the material in which bright colors are de fined against a plain ground. The sweater coat has a wide shawl collar of the cross-bar. Very large pearl buttons fasten the overlapping ends of the belt. Just now suits of this kind are worn with plain biouses of crepe de chine or of linen or fine cot ton. The vogue of sports clothes have given colors a wonderful impetus. On plain grounds, broad stripes, cross bars, disks and checks appear in bold WEAVES. but enchanting colors. This season stripes are broken with figures in contrasting colors and the introduc tion of Chinese and Japanese motif« has' proved a valuable acquisition in working out color schemes. in are are ex and be a Bumper Crops No Boon to Farmer Who Gets Less Than When Yield Is Small By WILLIAM J. SHOWALTER While congress is considering the high cost of living from the standpoint of the city consumer, it might also consider the high cost of universal bumper crops to the farmers who produce them. A study of the statistics of the department of agriculture will show that bumper crops, with all the extra labor they involve, bring the farmers shorter returns than the lean ones. For instance, in 1911 the world had a lean year so far as grain crops g*. Leaving out rice, the total grain yield was 13*78 6,000,000 bushels— enough to load a* train five times around the earth at the equator. In 1912 there was a bumper crop, the biggest yield of grain that Mother Earth, iu all her history, ever produced. It reached the enormous total of 16,150,000,000 bushels, practically ten bushels for every man, woman and child upon the face of the globe—enough to load a string of cars reaching more than six times around the earth. And yet, based on the farm prices per bushel prevailing in the United States on December 1 of the two years, which is fairly represent' ative of world prices, the farmer got more actual cash for his lean crop of 1911 than he got for his fat one of 1912. The average per-bushel price of the five great cereals was approximately 73 cents in 1911, as compared with 55 cents in 1912. So, if you will take out your pencil and figure it up, you will find that the world's farmers received approxi mately a billion and a quarter dollars less for the great bumper crop of 1912 than they got for the lean crop of 1911. The same conditions obtained in 1906 and 1907. Here the former year was one of those great fat ones when the granaries of the world were overflowing, and the latter a very lean one. Yet the farmers got nearly two billion dollars less for their great bumper crop of 1906 than they received for their lean crop of 1907. All the world understands, of course, the law of supply and demand, and knows that big crops mean lower per-bushel prices. But to take both worldwide, all-crop statistics and national single-crop statistics and to find that without exception the bumper crops bring less money in the aggregate to the fanner than the very lean ones is to disclose a condition in the economics of food production that is at once surprising and important. Agricultural Democracy Will Arise in Mexico if U. S. Keeps Its Hands Off By A. E. WOODRUFF The revolutions of Mexico are awaking the Peons—giving them power of arms—and in a few years Mexico will arise out of its present feudal state into an agricultural democracy. There are 12,000,000 peons of the Aztec blood, 85 per cent of the population, and they are now conscious of their power. They learned it in war, and nothing can prevent them from asserting themselves and claiming the land that is theirs. Now there is no middle class. There is great wealth on one side—* and that mostly foreign—and great poverty on the other. The peons have been actual serfs, ground into dust until the revolutions started, but now they have felt freedom, and no longer look to one man as a liberator, but are beginning to look to themselves. The feeling of power is growing, and in not many years we shall ßee in Mexico a land of strength, based on agrarian democracy. In Yucatan wonderful progress has been made toward developing a middle class. The south of Mexico has been at peace longer than any other part Yucatan is practically owned by 40 lords, who formerly forced the peons to do all the work on the estates. Sisal is the principal product. Now the laborers demand as much as $1 American money a day, and get it, or else they rent land and pay a part of the crop as rental each year. The sisal lords are no longer rulers but are employers. In time the northern part of Mexico will advance as far, and the beginning of a wonderful, rich, powerful democracy will be laid. Interference of the United States in Mexico would be unwarranted, and, to my mind, criminal. A nation has a soul Just as an individual has, and the nation must work out its own salvation. American capital is causing all the so-called border troubles in an effort to have the United States annex Mexico. Publicity Has Made Strikes Rare in Canada—Why Not in United States? By A. N. SPAULDING oI Washington. D. C It is generally conceded that Canada has the most effective system yet devised for the peaceful settlement of labor disputes. Since the law was put into force that country has been remarkably free from labor troubles. The law prohibits, under severe penalties, a strike or lockout until certain requirements of the act have been complied with. There must be at least thirty days' notice of the desired change of conditions by employees or employers, as the case may be—an increase of wages or better terms of employment on, the one hand or a proposed redac tion on the other. If, then, the parties are unable to come to an agreement, the one contemplating a strike or a lockout is compelled to lay the case before th j government and call for the appointment of a board of investigation. The mini ster of labor notifies each party to the dispute to name a member of the board, and they agree to a third, or the third member may be appointed by the minister of labor himself. A public inquiry follows, the board being empowered to summon witnesses and compel testimony. It is not an arbitration board. Its purpose is to bring the actual facts before the public. But in the course of its investigation it does all it can to effect an amicable settlement, and its final report is in the nature of a recommendation to one or both of the parties involved. After its findings are published the employees may strike or the employers lock out, if they wish, but the recommendations of the board have been, as a rule, accepted. The admirable success of this system is due solely to publicity. Could it not be tried in the United States? J no the of of In total cars the as to PROPER WAY TO SMOKE MEAT a a Soft Wood Should Not Bo Used In the Procès», for a Reason That Will Be Apparent. The proper smoking of cured pork aids materially Its keeping qualities and improves the flavor of the meat. Brine-cured meat is ready to be smoked after it has been in the brine from five to seven weeks. After the meat is removed from the brine it should be soaked in lukewarm wa ter, or in water at a temperature of 60 degrees, for about 24 hours. This dissolves the salt from the outside of the meat. If the meat 19 smoked without washing a coating of salt is found on the outside of the smoked meat, which detracts materially from its appearance. After the meat has soaked for a period of about 24 hours it should be taken out of the vessel and hung up on racks where the water can drain away or evaporate. When thoroughly dry the meat should be hung up in the smokehouse, the pieces near the ceiling and at a short distance from one another so that all parts will be uniformly ex posed to the smoke. The selection of the fuel is of great Importance. Soft woods should never be used, as they give oft too much carbon which will be deposited on the outside of the meat, making it sooty and giving it a too-dark color. Green hickory, maple or other hardwoods should be selected. Corncobs make an, excellent substitute. A steady smoke for from 36 to 48 hours is sufficient for mildly smoked meat. If the meat is to be kept until late in the summer, it is well to smoke it for about three days. The fire should be kept low so that the mini mum of heat is given off. When too much heat Is given off the fat on the meat will melt and run over the meat, causing It to become streaky. Meat, when smoked sufficiently, should be of an amber color. HOW TO RUN YOUR FURNACE Saving of Coal and Better Service Will Be Had If These Instructions Are Followed. There's a lesson for every household er in the pamphlet on how to save coal, Just given out here by the anthracite bureau of information. Listen: Don't put In too much coal or too little. Don't crowd It above the top of the firebrick lining In range, cylinder stove or hot-air furnace. Fill the fuel space twice a day in winter weather, heaping the coal slightly In the center. Don't add small quantities of coal several times a day, with attendant shakings. Shake the grate only twice a day before fresh coal is put in and stop when a bright light shows under neath. Don't leave the feed door open; It cools the heating surfaces. To check draft, open the check damper in the stovepipe and shut the ashpit door. See that the coal is properly con snmed and not shaken through the grate to pass out with the ashes. Keep the ashpit empty. Don't use the wrong size of coal; it's uneconomical. If right size and quality of coal are used no ash sifter is required. Two-Egg Cookies. One cupful butter, two cupfuls su gar, two eggs, one-half to one cupful milk, four cupfuls pastry flour or less, six teaspoonfuls baking powder. Cream butter and add sugar gradually; add milk according as a rich, crisp or a less rich and soft cookie la desired. Di minish the quantity of flour and bak ing powder if less than a full cupful of liquid be used. Take a little of the dough upon the board at a time and handle as little as possible. The dough should be quite soft If a cup ful of milk be used, pat into a sheet and cut into cakes. After placing in the pan dredge with granulated sugar. Bake in a quick oven. About Cream of Tartar. If you have noticed that cream of tartar has gone up In price It may in terest you to know that this is due to the scarcity of argol, from which It Is made, and this in turn is due to the lessened manufacture of wine In France and Italy in the past year. Nearly all the argol produced is Im ported from those two countries. gol is a crystalized deposit fornwfl on the Inside of casks and other-tecepta cles in which the Juice of grapes la kept for the manufacture of wine. Sunshine Cake. Three-quarters cupful strained hon ey, three-quarters cupful sugar, six eggs, one and a half cupfuls sifted flour. Boll honey and sugar together until it will spin a thread from the tines of a fork. Beat the egg yolks until light, pour the sirup over them, beating until the mixture Is cool. Sift in the flour last of all, fold in the stiffly-beaten whites. Pour Into an an gel-cake pan, lined with buttered pa per, and bake in a slow oven for forty or fifty minutes. Creamed Eggs With Fish. If you have any remnants of cooked fish, flake them larefully free of skin and bone, add salt and pepper and mix with some white sauce and add a little mashed potato. Line some little greased pans with this, add an egg, as before, and put into the oven to set. When Hemming Sheets. When hemming sheets, towels, etc« on the machine, turn the material around and run the stitching along each side for one or two inches, and no tying of ends will be the be the it wa of of is a so ex 48 METS" AG Oil LIVER; BOWEI No sick headache, biiiousae bad taste or constipation by morning. Get a 10-cent box. Are you keeping your bowels, liver* and stomach clean, pure and fresh' with Cascarets, or merely forcing a. passageway every few days with Salts, Cathartic Pills. Castor Oil or Purgative Waters? Stop having a bowel wash-day. Let Cascarets thoroughly cleanse and reg ulate the stomach, remove the sour and fermenting food and foul gases, take the excess bile from the liver and carry out of the system all the constipated waste matter and poisons in the bowels. A Cascaret to-night will niako you feel great by morning. They work while you sleep—never gripe, sicken or cause any inconvenience, and cost only 10 cents a box from your store. Millions of men and women take a Cascaret now and then and never have Headache, Biliousness, Coated Tongue, Indigestion, Sour Stomach or Constipation. Adr. Brief Notoriety. "It is considered quite commonplace nowadays to go around the world." "So it is. About the only way a globe-trotter can attract any attention is to do something, either at home or abroad, that will induce a large num ber of detectives to follow him in his travels." With the Fingers ! Says Corns Lift Out Without Any Pain A4 Sore corns, hard corns, soft corns or any kind of a corn can shortly be lifted right out with the fingers if you will apply on the corn a few drops of freezone, says a Cincinnati authority. At little cost one can get a small bot tle of freezone at any drug store, which will positively rid one's feet of every corn or callus without pain or sore ness or the danger of infection. This new drug is an ether compound, and dries the moment it is applied and does not inflame or even Irritate the surrounding skin. Just think ! You can lift off your corns and calluses now without a bit of pain or soreness. V your druggist hasn't freezone he can easily get a small bottle for you from his wholesale drug house.—adv. - Forced. "So you have given up smoking?" "Well, yes. You might say I have surrendered the habit." "Why surrender?" "To the victor belongs the spoils. My wife got the best of the argu ment." GIRLS! GUIS! TRY IT, REMirmr tour hair Make It Thick, Glossy, Wavy, Luxur iant and Remove Dandruff—Real Surprise for You. Your hair becomes light, wavy, fluf fy, abundant and appears as soft, lus trous and beautiful as a young girl's after a "Danderine hair cleanse." Just try this—moisten a cloth with a little Danderine and carefully draw it through your hair, taking one small strand at a time. This will cleanse the hair of dust, dirt and excessive oil and in just a few moments you have doubled the beauty of your hair. Besides beautifying the hair at once, Danderine dissolves every particle of dandruff; cleanses, purifies and invig orates the ç«£lp, forever stopping itch ing and .fSlling hair. B'lt what will please you most will t>e after a few weeks' u§e when you will actually see new hair-line and downy at first—yes—but really new hair—growing all over the scalp. If you care for pretty, soft nair and lots of it, surely get a 25 cent bottle Knowlton's Danderine from any store •nd Just try it. Adv. \ ___ _ Hardly the Place. "I want to see life in the raw." "Well, son, it's about as raw ns you 11 find it anywhere in the trenches, but I wouldn't advise you to go there for a pleasure trip." To Drive Out Malaria And Build Up The System Take the Old Standard GROVE'S tasteless chin tonic, you know what you are taking, as the formula is printed on every label, showing it is Quinine and Iron in a tasteless form. The Quinine drives out malaria, the Iron builds up the system. 50 cents. Conquest Brings Delight. Body and mind crave the delights of conquest. That is why we like to overcome difficulties. DEATH LURK8 IN A WEAK HEART, so on first symptoms use "Renovine" and be cured. Delay and pay the awful penalty. "Renovine" is the heart* remedy. Price >1.0 0 and 60c.—Adv. Keeping at it in the right way i* * part of the farmer's religion.