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C 1 Ç 17 3 © w $ A' tv m DIVERSITY IN ONE-PIECE DRESSES Then .s a wonderful diversity in ruc-pii < < dresses, ami there must lie. "We must have new things all the time ar women will not huy," says one of those who sells frocks nearly all the days of the year. It is business that makes the world move forward, and so designers call upon the four quarters of the globe for Ideas and inspirations. This fall there are Chinese and Rus sian and American Indian ideas inter preted in new suits and dresses, or dis cernible in their trimmings, along with clever inventions that are home grown and very modern. But with all this casting about for new inspirations there are almost no freakish dresses. Everything must how to the decrees of the mode and manage to arrive at simplicity in effect, no mat ter how much elaborated in details of trimming or finish. The result is the prettiest and most wearable frocks that can be imagined, with the straight line models in great favor and the smart Russian blouse winning its way to the front. But the straight line dress inis no monopoly, as may be gathered from the clever model in a one-piece frock shown here. It follows the lines of the tonneau skirt, at a safe and sane distance, with the small, side drapery tiiat holds its place in the season's styles. Just how Its wearer gets in or out of it is a secret that lies between her and the dressmaker, hut the belt Is discovered fastening at the side and probably the bodice does the same I j probably the bodice /■ ;v everywhere furs are *hi.. B . «.5 V™". ............... »>■ ■ SÄ*«** ...... Of the bodice have no duty oU" r tn to make n pretty flnlrt» for I, is the collar In Ibis frock that ne jjVLci. its maker. Itlsofcohtr.Kls ln^ 1..D1 with white .....nwl, , : rswa*: bodice The plain sleeves have small lifts with o •rlav In white is one these darin, satin. Making a joke of deprivation phase of French fortitude ii times of trial. The Parisienne makes light of tlie scarcity of coal and says she will rely upon furs and exercise in tile open air to keep herself warm tills winter. This prediction seems tc have influenced the mode, and furs are everywhere. On suits and frocks they appear In bands, sometimes con tinuous and more often in sections, on the bottom of skirts and coats. Collars and cuffs, fur-covered buttons, and narrow fur bands and fringes of fur find a place on all outer garments. Deep cuffs, both close-fitting and flaring, and narrow collars tiiat widen into broad revers are among the new est phases of fur trimmings. But with the broadest collars and the most gen erous cuffs are coupled very narrow (landings in pockets and about the hot tont of coats. Collars are as luxurious and enveloping as those introduced last winter, those on suits of the convert ible variety that may lie brought up about the throat at will. One of the new fall suits, trimmed with gray squirrel, is made of wool velour. Squirrel looks well on the wine, bitte and green shades of the present season and combines beauti fully with the soft "glove finish" of wool fabrics. The suit pictured is a conservative model with a straight hanging coat, belted in at. the waist everywhere line and trimmed to long points ai each side. It is plain except for big patch pockets, also trimmed in point? to correspond with the coat. Several of the French designers are turning to Japan for much of their Inspiration this autumn. This proba bly menus that we shall see Japanese motifs In embroidery, as much as w* saw them last yeur, on the uew frock* NEW WAR PUMES TO C A RRY 19 IN Britain Sends Giants of Built Us Plans Air to Be Here. for WILL PARALYZE THE ENEMY Great Number of These Craft to Make Impossible Re-enforcement of Ger man Lines—Engines Very Powerful. London.—American airplane manu facturers arc in possession of working models and blueprints of aero motors developed by England and France dur ing three years of warfare. The Unit ed States airplane factories have re ceived gratis the secrets of new alloys and improvements in construction which previous to America's entry into tlie war could not be bought at any price—secrets tiiat were guarded with nu n's lives and were never mentioned beyond the doors of certain offices. Personal messengers have left England by every departing steamship; mail bugs have been filled with priceless blueprints and cable lines have been jammed with messages, all hearing on die development of the American air squadron. The governments of France and ! Great Britain know that upon the of j forts made on the other si « 1« * of the At lantic within tlie next six months de pends the fate of the armies afield. Important above everything else in tin struggle for victory is the airplane, which must la* produced in myriads, and the task now falls squarely to Uncle Sam. Doubters Are in Minority. There are doubting Thomases on this side of tlie water who sneer at the grandiose statements coming from New York and 'Washington and who assert j that even if the United States organ izes for the aerial construction pro gram the product will he so inferior that it will he useless for actual fight ing. Fortunately these doubters are in the minority. Officials and men in a position to know what already lias been done are highly optimistic. They believe that American methods applied to the manufacture of air craft will re sult in just as good a product as is now coming from factories organized hero shortly after the war started. Despite all the lurid prophecies re garding the great fleet of airplanes that eventually will lay waste the prin cipal German cities, the experienced airmen on this side only hope for thousands of machines with which to fight the German armies in the field. The success which America's efforts nro to insure will come only when the allied armies in France have sufficient airplanes to retain mastery of the air and to patrol every mile of the terri tory immediately behind the German lines. When the day finally arrives. Germany will not be able to move a train back of the lines and to move reserves will he impossible. She will he unable to feed the men who are in the first lines. Her heavy artillery will he silenced and in the end lier en tire fighting forces made useless. The way will then become one of move ment. with the chances for victory al together on the side of the allies. There are various types of airplanes which will be manufactured in Ameri ca that are already being used in France. Engines of unbelievable pow er are being put into the newest type of plane. The average American Is more or less familiar with automobile engines and has some idea of what weight of engine will develop 100 horsepower. If this average American were to look at some of tin* newest air motors he probably would judge them to be ten or 10-horsepower. In fact, he could lift some of the engines un aided and would probably lie astound ed to learn iliat such a machine was capable of developing not 100, but lnO liorsepower. Every newspaper reader in the Unit ed States has been well informed of the plans for building airplanes. Dut it is doubtful if one in a thousand can picture the size of some of the planes that eventually will be loaded on trans ports at the Atlantic piers. The cor respondent lias had an opportunity in the last few weeks of inspecting the newest type of aircraft; the type that will he turned out in vast numbers by America, and it is bigger in every way and more powerful than laymen im agine. To begin with, the body of the new machine resembles in many ways a big motor launch. Its under part is rounded and beautifully constructed of finely grained wood. It is so big that to enter it one must clamber up a ladder and go down through a hatch way as big as the cabin door of a motor yacht. Ii is of the biplane typt 1 and from tip to tip of each wing there is room enough for a dozen men to lie out full length. Its two motors will develop 600 horsepower and their com bined weight is so little compared to the power that the actual figures would look untruthful in print. Where the old types could carry hundredweights, this machine carries tons. Can Carry Nineteen Men. This new plane is manned by a pilot two or three observers, a forward gun ner, a bomb-drepper. a mechanic and If necessary, a dozen passengers. It has an eleetriml-Iighted passageway leading from one compartment to an other. The flooring of one compart ment is a strongly constructed grating through which the occupants can view the earth below. The sides of two of the eurtii below, ine siues u: m» m the compartments are built to open and aff*rd a view of the surrounding clouds, or, in ease of cm:,! It. of the enemy planes. When the leviathan motors are started their rm !• is awe inspiring, and the wind ihm rim pr< pellers sends backward a ! -! in front of which a strong man v. • find -11 fli oulty in remaining i r- • r. This is a picture which n ts» be il l is a a 1 to It of pressed great ma what tin tin. Tin workers i hurriedly upon tlie public mi: iss of tho people i< e United State-, is task set fur the : tmtthatofturning luiiit seoutin tin- number of tens construct carefully with tile tiigi o realize going to American out light, machines to sands, hut to the last de T" war craft needed in model 'll battles. Thal i» what En gland exp . is of lief newest' ally and what sh-- 1 striven valiantly to tear! Il aiithorit i**s a<*n»ss the Atlantic. Tin * vast t,M Îiî deal detail , developed by com iminus tigii ting in tlie ! air lias been turm il nvi-r ♦■nti iiv So that i < the United States in-gins the work with tin- most fuvorab! le chances of surross. : Tin- invention of sorrio ii« •w fighting j machine after tla u nmniuT « • f the tank i is what all Euro[i e expects , >f America. | and they expect to see tin » now mu ; eliines, airplanes or ua or tlying torpedo hunts fully manned, nieknatm to -throw new terrors of an enemy w ho inv. a Now York Sun. : seaplanes ■ to France d prepared the heart errorism.— UNCLE SAM AT PEACE TABLE This Government Wdl 3e in Position to Dictate Terms When Time for Negotiation Comes. Washington. -President Wilson's re ply to Rope Benedict's peace préposai lias temporarily halted the widespread demand for a definite st, war aims of the United "The purposes of the in this war are known world—to every people truth has been permit the president said in his reply to the j pope. "They do not need to he stated : again." ; In his Flag day address tlie presi- j dent said the reasons for America's j entrance into tlie year must lie appar- j cut to every thinking man. Still, there j is confusion in the minds of many Americans. The attempt of tlie com- j mittee on public information to clear up this confusion with its pamphlet, "How the War Came to America," was only partly successful. "I shall not discuss here how Amer ica came into this war." Secretary of War Baker told the Fort Myer reserve officers on the day of their graduation. "Tiiat issue is settled for the Ameri can people. Our task now is to plan for victory." In these words Secretary Baker summed up the attitude of all Wash ington officials. There are others, how ever, yvho believe the reasons for Amer ica's entrance into the war have a very important bearing on peace and on the future history of the world. Just as there yvere underlying causes if einent of tin- I States. i aited States ' to the whole j t-> whom the Led to come," of the European conflict that never | have been mentioned in the official doc uments, so there were causes for Amer ica's entrance into the war that were slighted in the president's address. One of these causes is generally be lieved to have been that France yvas "tiled white" and that the allies yvere in danger of defeat. Many Americans And the best justification for Ameri ca's entering into the conflict in the statement that "we went in to save France." This notion yvas given a severe jolt when Andre Tardieu, the French pur chasing commissioner la the United States, made public his letter to Sec retary Baker giving statistics on the present military strength of the Freneli republic. With facts and fig ures supplied by the French war of ... lice, Tardieu disproved the theory that France was "tiled whi One of tiie highest officials of the United States government said it was not true that the allies were in danger of defeat just before America entered the war. France and England hutli could have held out for years and it was very doubtful, he said, that the German war machine could ever have achieved a military decision over the allies. The United States, tlie president be lieved, would be in no position to as sert its views at the peace conference if it remained a neutral. It was the avowed intention of leaving matters sudi as disarmament and an interna tional organization to prevent future wars to a congress tiiat would follow* the peace conference. The president believed that guar antees for the future would lie the only results that would make the three years of fighting worth while, and tiiat they should be made an integral part of the peace treaties. By tlie en trance of tiie United States, President AVilsmi became the world leader. It was made certain that by tlie aid ren dered tiie allies the United States would be in a position to dominate the peace conference and to force that con vention to accept its views. Tints it would seem to he estab lished that the real underlying cause for America's entrance into the war was not to succor an alliance in dan ger of defeat, but to insure and to dictate if necessary a just and lasting peace. There is reason to believe that the allies will be forced to accept terms of peace that they never would have considered but for the influence of the United States. And by the same token there Is ground for hoping m that through the United States the | world will, in fact, be "made, safe for democracy. - HOW UNCLE SAM IQS nA » i îni __ Student A*. : at Field Lea ors at Mineola *pe Germans. SOME TESTS OF SKILL SHOWN Men Go Up ••Slide" D< 1.0;g Half Miie. Then Sharp Angie — And, Sa> T s Is No Job f — Mr.Ci-I,' -.1« of , thousand - !:i Amerie ii nre ; j ! learning bo . Jf> bayonets tl trough i < iormaii >.#!■ di- rs i.. a leisurely ta armer, soJiU* « L t\, .o nromisim; t* mb rye 1 : otiioors « r ti *• A T .'*noun foret vs nr«* j here lea mi n^ L v •*» liostroy, Roche i birdnmn. Co jn by thoir tn lining. | they v. ib ! , •- rL:- j O- h*• *h otb.'.i'nt I y aid ; quickly. j : ; j j j j j Under t Acosta, <>: ful • iviiiati avia dates f ; u section i f the A taught t aide while he ground militarv r r v i s I. tiling fmtn imagi: from Fur for details of for aviators t however, is a: gérons situât', ing put thron Whib Ala. to da agi -, . er: 's most, success icoros of candi in tiie aviation dgnal corps are •ate themselves erinis positions thousand feet I ground, with tb • •:. straight tip, !*■• ' . ' ward and downw > j or l'Mi feet, then : der control again, and try it once r .*e It's quite easj to watch Bert A terman, his firs' AH you have * • chine drop ba- k | pear ,..;is it is forbidden righting instruction ■ -. Si* public. Here strutton of the dan !•* aviators are iu tUmsand feet above •.■•bine going nearly r quietly slip hack- - i. rail first, for 70 et the machine un- go up stii! higher, -»hat is. it is easy • >sta or Edward llol Hsslstant. pull it off. do is to let the ma bic kward and downward until you feel that you have gone far enough, then pick up speed and make her go upward again. Simple! Another simp!" little test of your skill as an aviator is to ride up 2,600 or 3,000 feet, then come down in a spiral, with the wings of the machine almost vertical. Acosta recommends this for nervous persons. Notwithstanding the apparent reck lessness of the flyers, each "stunt" is carried out in an absolutely scientific manner. Instead of courting danger for "the fun of it" the aerial movements are carefully planned yvith the factor of safety always being among the first things considered Nothing Is under taken for exhibition purposes except to demonstrate how to escape death over the battlefield. '•To fly around putting the machine at all kinds of angles and going through all the manipulations may ap lily and dangerous." Acosta said. 'As a matter of fa-'t. it is the only safe thing to ib) when you are above an enemy's battlefield "Infantry officers in our training camps are felling their men that Tg js temporarily a sergeant in the corps j ()1 > nion s pp,„i to receive commissions Recently !.-• told how it feels when yon camps «*** ; r-Ullli, turn norance courts death, in a battle with bayonets. In the aviation service lg norance is ■ > ertuiri death.' High in the ranks of the men seek ing commissions in the aviation corps stands Cap' Cushman A. Rice, veteran of half a dozen wars on the American continent and a former member of the general staffs of three brigadier gen erals of the American army. Captain Rice, "The Cuban Million aire." made a fortune in Cuba follow ing his resignation as a captain of in fun try in tb • regular army in 1!X)2. He it be as the en It the to the make your first flight in an airplane. "When Mr. Holterimin. who was driving tin- machine, and myself were gliding along about 1""" feet up. for some unaccountable reason I 1*dt a strong desire •■> leave my -eat and walk out on one •*:' th how It feit mit »her* why it was, but Î fcl j strongly for j almost had t a hoir t wings to learn I don't know that desire so a minutes that 1 Really cure, , no when you driving th driving it •1 quite safe and se mattor how high you go, have confidence in the man • airplane—nr when you arc yourself, if you really un the for derstand running it. Everything is so new and different way up tiicte that von do not have time t*» think of being afraid." Captain Rice will be among those whose time to go to France i« rapidly approaching. Captain Rico stands out as a man win) took the hard road to a commis sion. although lie could have had on without working for it. Notwithstand ing the fact that he could have become •î lieutenant colonel of infantry, be muse of his military record, he chose to enlist in the aviation corps and work for his commission, which in* will receive at th" "ad of the regular five months' training period. His mili tary record includes participation in three Latin-American revolutions, the Spanish-American war as a captain in tin- regular army, the Philippine cnui [align in command of a detachment of mounted scouts and service in ' hina. A number of candidates here an* awaiting commission«, «hieß have been authorized, and will shortly leave for France to go into the last stages of their training over there. Additional candidates from the various ground î schools will replace them. ä mnv we really to have : night?' "'Yes. said the one thing you must come in cost umes make yourselves.' "The fairies love ey dn-ss costumes, ; much with liieir c and their magic wa 1 hough! up costume Fairy Queen laid tit "•Tonight el g EARLY AUTUMN PARTY. "Tlie first color of the autumn had appeared on a few of the trees near fairyland and tin* fairies were so pleased," said Daddy. "T think.' said the Fairy Qm-en. 'it will lie cool enough for a bonfire pic nic tonight. Tlie nights have been almost chilly lately, and a bonfire would feel pretty fine l believe.' "'It would!' shouted the fairies. 'Are I bonfire party to Fairy Queen, 'hut ail do. You must which you are t « » the faim - went tioris. ( H' oour tiiat wont togeth to dross alike. "Eight o'clook soon the fairies wore ready sounded through the wi the voice of Mr. Giant . to dros- up in tail and they cun do so lever little lingers liais tiiat they had s almost before the fished speaking, hi,' she said. All iff in different direc tle'.o were groups -, as tln-v were going •aiue and all A trumpet ops. and tlieii as beard say ing. 'Untile all the fairies tn the bon fire party'. Come brownies, conte elves, collie gnomes, come bogey-, collie gob lins, and onnie Witty \\ itch !' "At t !mt all the creatures came fly ing and running and ru-hing to tin* bonfire party. Tlie invitations bad been given to Mr W ind wh*i delivered them during tlie late afternoon. "The earth people had said tiiat tlie wind was blowing up. hut he was sim ply in n great hurry <c get all the invi tations around. * lie did not corne to tin- party, lb* had been invited, but he said he was very sleepy and needed a rest. So the Fairy Queen had thanked him for his help and he had gone off to lied. "It was a quiet evening therefor«, and the bonfire was blazing. In the ich t'M £ .9 ■ct She Wore a Dress of Soft Green Moss. center on four sticks crossed was an enormous black kettle. "It was filled with good hot soup, and there was corn roasting down by tiie side of the fire. The sticks crack led as if they too Were enjoying the I*-« I ** • Il IIIV.V I'"' .....•---- n ; f lin . and the Fairy Queen was all | smiles, 1 in in of of "She wore a dress of soft green moss with fluffy collars and cuffs of the first red shade of the autumn trees. Her hat was made out of brown oak leaves, with a crown of red vine around It. Her wand was of brown, yellow and rod. all Mending most beautifully to gether. "The fairies looked like the different tree« of tin- early autumn, just as the trees are beginning to turn in color. Some wore frocks of leaves from the dm trees, some from the maple trees, while others copied the different trees and shrubs around them. "Old Mr. Giant was dressed in a cos tume of pi tie Lie. dir«. *1 Util the Same all the time.' he said, 'and I can wear Ibis Costume often.' "They all laughed for they knew how hard it was for Mr. Gian) to get new costumes all the time, and true î 'Hough he looked like the pine trees of the autumn—or the pirn- trees of the i summer, winter and spring! i "Witty Witch was dressed like a • purple aster for she said it was truly I an autumn flower. Ib-r hat was a tall j purple one and pointed at tlie top, I just as all her hats were. She had a I dress of purple and trimmings of gold. "Tlie elves, gnomes, bogeys, and gob lins were all dressed like autumn flow ers and the bonfire shed its light over them all. making everything look very wonderful. "They told stories, they sang, and 'hey ate of the roasted corn and the hot soup. And later on, when Mr. Moon had come up to see what was gi* ing on, they danced. And how like fairyland they all did look with their gorgeous costumes of the early autumn colors, and with the light of the moon and the bonfire upon them. "For it almost seemed as though the trees and tin- flowers were dancing and showing how gloriously they did feel l" Laugh V/hen You Can. Laugh when you can is good advice, ! Unless laughter is unkind or irrever j cut, you cun hardly have too much of I it. Half our ills of mind and body are ! routed by a hearty laugh. Many of our trouldes would vanish like the con ventional ghost if we could learn to laugh them away. Laughter is medi cine to the sick, a tonic to the well, sunslùr.e for everyone. Laugh when you tan.—Girls' Compunion.