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ln the Real m o f Lingerie ?
ff II J a Everything, from richest furs to kitchen aprons and war overalls, was given a chance in the recent style ahow at the Hotel Morrison, Chicago. It was a real exposition of practical garments of all sorts, designed by Americans, for Americans, and not merely a competition between manu facturers to see which could exhibit the most unusual, expensive and elab orate designs in women's apparel. The garments were made to sell, not simply for exhibition, and therefore one could Judge from them the standards reached and the progress made in public taste, ft was a valuable and Interesting ex hibit There was a great deal of Interest In . the new service suits for women who have taken up work usually done by men—as work In factories, munitions plants, gardens and the lighter farm work. The suits are made with trou sers instead of skirts and usually in one piece with a blouse. Several varie ties of overalls were among them and these warlady clothes proved more Rightly than the usual skirt and blouse that are so prone to part company. Nightdresses and negligees were not neglected ; for the eternal feminine may Clothe herself In war overalls five or eight hours In the day (in order to be Able to buy dainty and frivolous things for other hours) but she will not be weaned away from filmy fabrics and laces. A pretty nightdress and a neg ligee, shown In the picture, were Among the most graceful of several inch garments In the exhibit at the Rtyle ahow. The nightdress of nain sook la low-necked, finished with seal frot dull ed In Headwear ForeshaHng Winter TSie melancholy days have come, but go have the new fall hats, and they have brought along with them a sure cure for the blues. It Is Just out of »he question to try on this enticing new millinery and go on regretting the p acing of summer at the same time, for winter la foreshadowed and welcomed by the loveliest of head wear. The war has thrown Americans an their own resources to designing, to g greater extent than ever before; it Is hard to tell Just how much we owe to our own "home-grown" milliners, but there cannot be two opinions about the new hats. They are excellent from every standpoint ' There are shapes that are large and there are small hats, and all of them are graceful. Lines arewonderfull and trimmings do not Interfere with them or blur them. Brims are Irragular, crowns are soft, materials are rich and trimmings simple. Much hand craft appears to the "»king of these hats and in tha making of their trim mlngs. The predominating » colors » are quiet but nevertheless brilliance Is I universal to the season's mode!^ A group of representative hatsts ! pictured above. The shapes have style and becomingness to reco-nmend them and Include the principal types of hats to be worn during the coining seasomr~ . b*t of a«r* blue pan,. n l,et I* >«*-> wUh long-napped be*' I~_ , nd hag a band of beaver about «own. There Is a silk tassel_oçe Ö* - VS Ai II ivuft ««rr-- band of beaver about LT Ü Ta n There Is a silk tassel ol Sî ïïie coli for the trünwtog. Th« lopfcdges and fine tucks across the frot There is an embroidered me dull at each side and full sleeves thaïe much longer than sleeves have bee*r several seasons. There Is not S eedlework on this gown, but ere is, Is very well • done. Thegligee is a long slip of plait ed I with an overdrop of lace that hanirom the shoulders, having th« effdf a short, full lace coat. It 1« opetvn the front and Is to be worn oveiacey petticoat or slipped over thetdress for bedroom wear. Satin slipledged with silk fringe are a detiorth remembering for pretty negl demand the right sort of foot Plain Frocks of Silk. T^st-dressed young women at faslle summer resorts are wear Ingoings, perfectly plain shirt valises of soft wash silk ; waists gatfnto a belt and trimmed with grafollars and turned-back cuffs ; »ly hemmed at the foot and thout patch pockets. Some ir, cuffs and belt are piped : trusting color or the finish hemstitching. These soft silk j look very fresh and dainty and extremely graceful, blowing abotmmer breezes. Plain whit« silklsilks with hairline stripe« In c$e used. \ Flowered Hat«. Fj hats are almost necessary whqies of dainty organdie are I ! - _ ----- suit should b« accom at the right side than and has a beautiful up be left a lovely hat lo dark 1th the entire underbrim tightly curled ostrich own. These very short like Persian lamb fur. 1 with a smart, wired ! shape the brim widens hat at the right la velvet faced with plain is not much more to pt that its brim is soft, kelously becoming and Its Hdered with wheat and rvy silk floss. At the ie group a small, droop it of porcelain blue fell iver In allegiance to big Ik Is overlaid with crepe (the same color and for is a generous bow ol In ribbon, matching th« oat of Ivory Tone. Be suit should be accou «vaistcoat of ivory ton« shapes have rigid ch of them Is slm td each proclaims Itself some skilled and clever ■ ü. s. KEEPS TAB ON 7,000 SHIPS Biery Six Minutes a Merchan Vessel Moves at an American Port. mm CHARTS ARE USED J Every Minuta of Time and Pound of Cargo Noted and Thus Each Vow •M la Used to Utmost to Speed War Plan. Washington.-—Every six minutes a merchant vessel arrives and another departs from Am er can ports. From north Atlantic seaports there Is a departure every eleven minutes—one for Europe every forty minutes. This rate of operation does not Include ves sels In the service of the army or navy. The merchant fleet of 1,500 ships ■under the control of the United States shipping board is run as a railroad, on a time schedule. The duty of measur ing ships' performances, with their tasks, is lodged with the planning and statistics division of the shipping board, headed by E. H. Gay, formerly dean of the Harvard Graduate School Of business. i Obviously the division most know the tasks in detail, and ao it coofdl oate8 with the war industries and war trade boards in determining «id pro Tiding for the country's needs from abroad. It works on month to month schedules, or as far in advance as it Is feasible or possible to forecast j Worit * With All Departments, L 10 Ptanning the use of ships the <B Tlslon works with the food administra tion In determining the shipping re quirements for food; with the war de partment In correlating shipping with the requirements of the line of sup plies for the western front; with the Far industries board in seeking solu tion of the problem of br ing in g neces sary raw imports into the country, and with the war trade board In preparing the lists of essential Imports and ex ports. As the country has gone more and more on a war basis. It has been re garoed necessary to limit the list of essential imports to leas than 100. »ata on the ships and their trade pro vide the boats for operation of the vessels upder the shipping board's con trol. Likewise records are kept of neutral vessels coming to this coun try or linking up with its foreign trade. Thus the division checks dally about ,T,000 vessels, 1,500 of them being those of the shipping board, 3,000 engaged .. kind fis h S?ua U. Every are AID TO REDFIELD In appointing a woman to become his private secretary William C. Redfleld, secretary of commerce, has set a prec edent. Mrs. A. C. Stewart of port Richmond, N. Y„ is the first woman ins honored. Mrs. 8tewsrt was Mr. edfield** confidenti a l clerk for a num ber of years. I J ■ on OBJECTORS TO BE GIVEN WORK Use Men Opposed to War Food Production. in id Problem of Their Presence at Army Cantonments Is Now Solved. Washington.—After struggling for a long time with the knotty problem of conscientious objectors in army can tonments, the war department now un ices that the difficulty has to a large degree been solved through the Bid of the farm help specialists of the United States department of agricul ture. ■ In the various states where there are farming communities which Include jsects opposed to war, such as the Punkards and Mennonite«, and where (additional farm help Is needed, these places are made known to the'eanton buuw onmmnnUra. tavathar with a too. 111 Amerlcan commerce and 2^500 scattered over the globe and trading for the most part with the al Ues or their colonies. Roughly, one fourth of the merchant ships of the are watched by the shipping Ship performances against tasks are recorded by "progress charts," which show at a glance what the vessels have to do and how they are doing it Each set of charts Is divided into ten di visions—one each for movements of vessels, turn-arounds, ships' charts of commodities, individual commodity charts, summary of Imports, individual trades, summary of trades, ship charts of exports, performances In ports and dock performances. Copies are dis tributed every ten days to govern By army. YANKEES VISITING IN Bl^AND mm la 1 .. American troops set foot on kind words and all the comforts of home fis h me n and women arrange excursions everything possible Is done to make them S?ua picture shows some Yankees in.se England, near which city they are stationc P U today nothing hot Patriotic-minded Eng for them; in fact, were back home, baths at Bath, U. S. WILL ENROLL j DOCTORS Every Physician in Country Is to Be Listed. National Defense Council Will Mobilize Them for Civil and Military Work. Washington.—Dr. Franklin Martin, chairman of the general medical board of the council of national defense, e> I plains the scope and function of tin J volunteer medical service corps, li ■ which it Is proposed to enroll eve# legally qualified physician In tie country, Including women, without rtf erence to age or physical disability. "It Is a method of recording all p*y sidans who are not yet In service aid of classifying them so that their srv lces when required win be utilize« In a manner to Inflict as little h ur fthi p on the Individual as possible," Detoç Martin writes. "It Is a method by which every physician not In nnlxm will be entitled to wear an which will indicate bis wlllingnes to serve his government. *Tbe object of the corps Is to/gace on record all medical man to the Vnlt ed States; to aid the.army, saw and public health service to suppiylag war needs ; to provide the best dvlUcn serv ice possible; to give recognition to all who record themselves. "Civilian service will be supplied under a fixed plan. Every ose to the eorps will receive proper credit for service rendered, and ample medical attention will be assured tor all re quiring It There will be tour tenta tive ria ass s, consisting of fit-to-figbt men under forty, reserves ander fifty five; home forces over fifty-five. Ineligible«. B ss ct v m may be called! on occasion for army, navj * J ! ! ' Ji I _ rm id ,. ord of their farm labor needs. The plan has worked out so .. ^ that In the three camps where deflnij lists of objectors were compiled cally all of these men have placed. Camp Meade had 88, „ them now at labor on farms ; 100 of 102 men at Camp Lee have been and the majority of those at Taylor. all SALESMAN KNITS FOR "B0 k" Devotes All HIs Spare Time to While Waiting for Trains. Ottawa, Kan.— O. C. Rose, a tog salesman here, spends all spare time at railway stations, b< trains, and evenings knitting fc ors. As a result of his ener pairs of socks, one pair of helmet and a sweater have overseas to «cm« yank. gladden the heart of abouj meets tlon By formatfo movemen and from forecast The prepared tndustri the food the of charts te to a many or In too they a; behind mov right ship the sigmnent By cou against when one trad army. : inform»* any fo und accessible, one ma> ■oyages. trade, the war rda and s shape the use -je. The allocated too ey bring whether! f time oi! the trade ist or Jast e to guide the a* ___ trades* requirement* charts sboW from to the to board e> tin li eve# tie rtf p*y aid In p by healthjriUan service; the home forces those able to perfora only c ervice." Sen »embers of the corps will be cal rendered In response to requei i the central governing board * the management of the corps vested. State boards will appoii tutive committees to xp* celve ations for enrollment In the ct d will make recommenda tions nlng them to the central goveri raid. t*+ GREETS IN FRANCE loo! Ind.—"Hall, ball, the all here!" J isaafs of the IMS edition An can tourists who are dally an- »g Somewhere In France" In tRetr faces and a In their hearts, as little French kiddies I homely refrain as they gangways. ... ling to s letter receive d * J jj» recently early arrivais of ! ! f American expeditionary fees have taught tills greeting the children, who pass it on ' Ji each new contingent arrives. I " n - n ball, the gang's all Kidd, 100, Werks on Farm. O.—William eau _ ____and six, is assisting In (k* rm work on the Chartes Borner trim id Is doing a real day's mock «Mt ,. Ddd was bora daring the lw 1812 and n erved to toe Confederate during the Civil war. TAKE 60 HUNS WITHOUT SHOT With the American Army m Vesle Front.—Sixty Prussians k___ be«» taken prison« by the Americana near Flsmette, north of F la me s, with out either side firing a shot. Tbm A sians were machine gönnen, and aU that remained of a company which bad been to line less than a month. American detachments went eat _ few nights ago, the location of the na chine gun positions having been re ported by a prisoner. According to the Americans, the Prussians were walk ing to be taken prison«. The totaOP gen ce officer who questioned the Prus sians asserted that they nearly all bad agreed to surrender if the slightest op portunity arose. The Americans who took the pris oners do not claim any credit for the capture, declaring that the Prussian« irl rfiifl Hr AflfiMk WOMEN OF MIDDLE AGE Need Help to Pat* the Crisis Safe* |y—Proof that Lydia E. Pink ham's Vegetable Compound Can be Relied Upon* Urbana, 111.—''During Change of Lif< in addition to its annoying symptoms, I — had an attack of grippe which lasted i all winter and left I me in a weakened I condition. I felt ait times that I would never be well again. I read of Lydia E» iPinkham's Vege table Compound ; and what it did for women passing through the Change of Life, so I told my doctor I would try it. I soon began to gain in strength and the annoying ws-nnw.r—_____- - symptoms dis anneared and your Vegetable Compound EKSde me a well, strong woman so recommend iTdiaTÄm's Vegï table Compound too E!Mre.Æ^flE.N^oN, 13lf S. Orchado St., Urbana, 111. . and ''the blue's" should try £ ls ^ a ££!"J root and herb remedy, Lydia E. Fmk ham's Vegetable Compound. hot Eng FIGHT YOUR HAY FEVER WITH INHALATUM Hay Fever meets defeat at the first symptom with In halatum. Gives new life to sufferers all summer — Don't delay longer — Get it now ! COMPLETE OUTFIT 01.»» At Leading Druggists or sent postpaid epon receipt ox price. The Inhalation Chemical Co. Colorado Springs, Colo. Heal Itching Skins With Cuticura Wear a Button lor Your Loved Ones - " Over There *• Assortment as follows : I sweetbeertx........ 8T ■ 100. *4.60: «C <Jo* : Agents wsntee. Tks Msrckaab' Press, 4M BROTHER OFFICER WINS HIGH PRAI aU _ re the op the >hn I. Conroy of fie ly Commended by tding Officer. Second Lieut. John Marines Highly Commanding The bulldog tenacity and nerves >f steel which characterized the opt a tions of the United States marinesto their classic capture of Chateau-Th r ry and Belleau wood in the second 1 t* tie of the Marne earned unusual c< a mendation for Second Lieut. Johi L Conroy of the marines. The c< n manding officer of his regiment wi to to the brigade commander that LI u tenant Conroy was "conspicuous in his services to the battalions in 1! e, carried on his duties at a storm c li ter of bombardment by enemy h jh explosive, shrapnel and gas shells. "Throughout this period he supp îd the troops in line with ammunition, a tlons, water and engineer stores x th tireless energy, marked executive t >11 ity, foresight and absolute fearl ss ness at all hours of the day and ni bL He never failed to a crisis and » jly bulldog tenacity and nerves of t eel made it possible for him to dlschi rgo his multifarious duties. When enlay fire exploded an ammunition dump un der his charge his energy and ness confined the damage to a m mum." Lieutenant Conroy's mother, John Conroy, lives at 59 Li street, Brooklyn, N. Y. A la Berlin. "Say, pop, what Is a signal vi "In Berlin the capture of one can with the loss of only twen mans Is so regarded, my son Post Toast —Everyil corn food io