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DOES IMMODESTY IN EVENING DRESS ADD TO ITS BEAUTY?
| Agitation Against Extreme Decollete Brings Out Fact That Most Beautiful Gowns Do Not Shock Good Taste—Charm in Clothes Lies in Distinctive Individuality Cooyrtirht. 1019. hr Public t*<lrrr Co. A ---1-^-—-—-— -- • Fathion Camera Here we have an interesting front view of the dinner gown with tho removable coatee. This unusual model is one of the much-talked-about seamless draped gowns, just the fabric without shaping draped about the figure, yet producing a very shapely effect By Edith M. Burtia fpHEnp Is considerable agitation in many quarters Just now over what Is described as tho immodesty of our evening gowns and dance frocks. Many excellent ladies of good Intent •re determined that somo so-called fashionable concoctions of laco. tulle, beads and spangles, worn as gowns, •hall bo forced Into oblivion. And tho ladles In question are right; enly to my mind they have, as Is so often the case with reformers, too ob viously let It be known that they _ •re bent upon reform. A fid as a result their worthy agita tion and lionest efforts will more than likely result In adding fuel to tho fire rather than in extinguishing the flame. I'm not a believer in any criticism that simply turns the limelight on tho odious, objectionable something—what ever it may bo—without at the same time, casting an equally brilliant radi ance ujtoii tho new and better that should bo provided to replace tho un desirable. But right here Is the rub—so many times, In fact generally, the self-ap pointed reformer or reformers have failed to provide a substitute, an alternate! Usually they take away the Jangible. tho actual and leave you flat—to uso a common expression— with nothing to fill the gap but tho shell of an Ideal; their ideal which, un-# fortunately, is frequently so imprao ticable that it Is not transferable. And I have no patience with oom pulsory methods—you can't make any one, not even a .tiny child, do the right thing just because, and let It go at that. My thought is that any one capable of doing right must be taught tne reason—must be guided by education, spurred on by the vision of personal reward. Inspired by an ever increasing understanding and love of tho good ard tho beautiful. Help folk, young or old or middling, to see the profit In right and they will, unless mentally deficient or of crim inal tendencies, seek the right and Jealously hold to it. Very few girls aud women are vicious-minded, but most of us are foolishly ambitious for social conquest over other women, a little vain of per son, and silly in our determination to incite more masculine attention than our dearest friends. So we make the nilstuko of accepting curiosity for ad miration, attention for courtesies, de sire ' of possession for affection, by dressing In clothes that are striking rather than lovely, suggestive rather than attractive, and anything and everythin? but beautiful. Spring Fashions From Paris IN THU collection of spring models Ijy Callot Soenrs thero aro both svido and narrow skirts. Some of the Wide skirts aro decidedly bellshap.-d. Host of the skirts in this collection are short. For .evening wear Paquln shows sev eral gowns trimmed rather elaborate ly with ostrich._ A returning buyer says "Paris Is Using taffeta for everything, not only plain taffetas but gold and silver bro cade taffetas." What Is known as the Talbot green Is tho colo#sonsation of Paris, accord ing to an American buyer of millinery. At any rate, it is chiefly by tho bril liancy of their coloring that Paris de """* —signers aro expressing their Joy of Victory. From Deddy comes a severely plain chemiso dress of rich blue satin em broidered In scattered motifs of match ing beads. _ - Organdie vests are a noticeable fea ture of many spring suits by Beer. These suits are tailored models with plain skirt and thlrty-two-lnch coats Cevelope.l in verge, principally'in blue. Chamois, khaki and black. Worth introduces evening gowns on Grecian lines, plain tailored suits, many with vests, and afternoon Cresses with round uncollared necks. r- - • ■ . f -v „ • .' Rich embroidery in Persian and Rumanian colorings Is a trimming feature on dresses of navy sergo and black satin put out by Lanvin. In tho Cheruit collection long fitted sleeves predominate in afternoon dresses, and many dresses dh chemise lines are to bo seen. Ribbon in irregular vttdths hanging in long streamers is a distinguishing feature of some attractive dress mod els by Paquin. F6ulards are used extensively for afternoon dresses'by Paquin and sev eral other Taris designers. For evening gowns Cheruit shows a preference for combinations of metal cloth, both gold and silver, and tulle. There aro also some charming dinner gowns developed In taffeta. Draped cleverly to reveal every beautiful line of the body are luxu rious evening gowns of metal and two-color brocades designed by Cal lot. _ Wide silk and wool j^inges are used extravagantly on many Callot gowns, and lace, too, is employed lavishly. An audacious use of brilliant colors is the dominant note of interest in the Bulloz collection and the extensive use of ribbon of many widths and varieties. > « Joel Fedsc I.ace is being used extensively for all kinds of dresses intended for special occasions and usually in combination with another ma terial. Here is an effective use of black lace and whtte net that has produced a very desirable dinner or informal dance frock Fashion Camera riiU dinner gown has a two-purpose possibility, for he coatee of net is made separate from the gown __d can be removed so that the gown becomes one of the most extreme of decollete models --———-3-j-rrr--—1 Fashion Camera - The gowns of rich brocades that are the height of fashion this season need little, in fact should have bnt little, in- the way of design introduced. The fabrics are sufficiently beautiful in thflfciselves. I have said it before, but must re peat it here—teach women the beauti ful In dress and they will Just natural ly demand and wear the beautiful. Offer them the right alternative and help them to understand wbat actually constitutes the beautiful In dress and they will gladly accept a change—and when we talk of the beautiful In dress we must remember that the beautiful is always useful, practical, becoming and above all appropriate. There Is nothing appropriate for a young girl in a dance frock of tulle, made on a net foundation, the bandeau bodice held in place by two narrow shoulder straps of ribbon or beads; and there Is nothing beautiful in the effect of this so-called gown on a hall developed, uncorsetcd flgure, without even a bandeau to cover the lines ol the bust. Thd girl Is more likely to look like a half-feathered broiler than anything human; and If you’ll close your eyes and think a minute you will agree there is nothing very tempting in a chick that is destined to he killed and plucked before It has had a chance tc spread it.vwings. Suggestion is moro powerful that actuality to the minds of most hu mans, and it must be admitted that there are in many fashions odious sug gestions—fusliions that, with just a little more art, a little more skill ant creative ability, could bo transforraei into such beauty that the charm of tlx gown and the wearer would appeal tc all observers. * To say don’t, or you must not, wll never succeed like exploiting tlx charm of a delightful color, the al luroment of a rich and beautiful fabrl< and their particular and peculiarly pleasing effect upon a complexion 01 a flgure. Ana, above all, let’s try to over come this sheeplike tendency ti dress like our fellows. Let's aim to: the distinctively individual In dress not the Individuality that does no conform to fashion’s demands, bu the Individuality that is obtainei when knowing our requirements' w choose from fashion’s collection cacl season the things that aro best fo us. Lace is a particularly dellgbtfu fabric for women’s clothes and lac Is being used extensively for all kind of dresses intended for special occa slons this season, usually in com blnatlon with other materials. I lustrated today Is a delightful an desirable dinner or informal danc frock made of black lace and whit net, producing a dainty and easil worn gown. Of black and gold brocade is th dignified and beautiful evening gowi with the Rouble panel back that form the tiny double train. This gown ha the square-cut decollete that mark It as one of the newest of models, a does the use of lace as a draper over the sleeves. ' -» * .-. ■ -.tm Elegant simplicity best describes the distinctively dignified and lovely evening gown of spangle cloth, tulle and ribbon. The hobble drape of the skirt and the wlngliko drape of the els for evening wear. The material of this unusual gown Is black satin; the beading Is a fine motif done In tiny Jet beads. The front view of the gown under • J.d Met Strikingly new anil distinctive is this dinner gown of old bine satin and black lace. The fetching jacket or overblouse of the lace is cut on kimono lines, the sleeves in one with the body of the blouse. The unique * train of the lace is draped from the shoulders, bang 3 ing straight and full to the floor r tulle over the arms aro particularly • interesting details. » The next illustration portrays the > back view of a dinner gown which has 9 a two-purpose possibility, for •» the s coatee of net,- edged with Jet, is made ■ separate from the gown and can be f removed, so that the gown becomes the most extreme of decollete mod-, - -V . * ■ - i J discussion permits of a further anal ysis of the model, which is one of the muchtalked-about seamless draped gowns; just the fabric with out shaping, draped about the figure, yet producing a very shapely effect. The gowns of rich brocade that arc the height of fashion this season need little, in fact should have but' little, design about them. -That is, the de velopment of the gown should be simple, with nothing intricate in the way of cut or shaping, for the fabrics are sufficiently beautiful in them selves, and it would be like paint ing a lily to overburden such fabrics with ornamentation. Pictured here is a pleasing exam pie of this thought: chiffon being used In the simplest way, serving princi pally as a foil for tho brocade and developing a most attractive dinner gown. Strikingly new and distinctive is the dinner gown of old bluo satin and black lace, tho fetching jacket or overblouso being cut on kimono — lines, making the sleeves In one with the body of tire blouse. Tho unique train of tho lace Is draped from the shoulder, hanging straight and full to tho floor and adding a grace of dignity to the modal that would not be so distinctive if this secticn of the design had not been included. - ■ - ■ _i J«i t'adw Of black and gold brocade, with a modish draper; of black lace, is this dignified and beautiful evening gown. The double panel back that fossae the tin; double train and the square-cut decollete mark it as one of the newest of models '■%' ' " »- ••• ■ y/A ’ e_ * ----1 Elegant simplicity best describe. ,k- j*** dignified and lovely evZi d*sUncUJ doth, tulle .nj rihbon ^LgklnbI°f fPan*!o •lie skin and the win. lk. Z. ! dr°P ot •ver the arm* are paruculart, 'C ’ ’’ " ’• •'