The Birmingham age-herald. [volume], December 27, 1903, Image 15

About The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950

Image provided by: University of Alabama Libraries, Tuscaloosa, AL

                
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roadcloik an SaLIe
R. I^V>SIIXOlWS COATES ^VNX> CLOAKS .
fZoose /Jondng c/japeTze ^
na/jh /ai/oT Jin/s/j Jot cot*
Tzog& <ancZ /Jie&tTe, wraps.
Smiles and Tears.
iirough her tears my darllug’s smiling.
And the world Is bright again,
" hen saddened hearts beguiling,
Breaks the sunlight through the ralu:
l o her lashes still are clinging
Crystals, quivering with her sighs,
Golden durts of sunshine flinging
From the rfcinbow of her eye*.
AM the days cannot be rainless;
Skl*-s cannot be always clear.
Darling's life cnunot bp painless—
Sorrow's lurking somewhere nenr.
But since tears must come tosaddeu,
Bringing with them bitter sighs,
May the smiles that follow gladden
In the rainbow of her eyes!
J3j'OdJ^o7ZT&nd fur hte/Ji/sig tscwsz. **
|ChtftoJ and 'Sakli
/Ivzmw- Cloak,
^omDinauouB or oroauciorn ana rur are al
ways highly satisfactory. This yeur there
are so many different qualities of broadcloth,
as well as new varieties of fur, that one Is
able to secure entirely different effects from
anything that has as yet been seen.
All colors, with varying shades of each,
are In favor, making it a matter of some
careful study to choose what is most ef
fective.
Purples, blues, greens, browns, all rang
ing from the darkest to the lightest tones,
are trimmed with narrow or wide bands of
sable, chinchilla and moleskin, or are of the
newer furs now enjoying fashion’s favor.
Cloth wraps, trimmed with fur, possess
n more distinctive air than do the cos
tumes, and these are to be seen in widely
differing models. At first glance such
wraps appear to be quite shapeless, but In
reality they are most carefully fitted, and
their graceful folds are the result of perfect
tailoring.
Medium length wraps, made of white or
very light cloth, and trimmed with bands
of sable on their lace edged cape collars,
are smart and rather newer than the long
wraps made on precisely the same lines.
This length Is really better for carriage
and theater wear than It Is for evening.
The various , lengths are the distinctive
marks between coats for afternoon and
those designed for evening wear. Even
ing coats are ridiculously long, so that
they trail on the ground, but then the Idea
Is to have them entirely cover the gown
over which they are worn.
Dark Evening Gowns.
Evening wraps are elaborate this sea
son, and are made of the most costly ma
terials. At firnt It seems rather strange
now that It Is fashionable to wear dark col
ors In evening gowns, to be told that dark
wraps are entirely out of fashion, never
theless, It is unusual to see a coat darker
than the lightest blue or snuff color.
Bright red wraps nre an exception to this
rule. Some of these brilliant wraps are
made of accordion pleated red broadcloth,
and so cat that they possess a lot of in
dividuality.
Now that expense does not count in the
remmine wardrobe, it does not seem at
all Incongruous to cover a broadcloth coat
with chiffon and lace, ulthough It would
seem as though the fabric Itself were
handsome enough without additional orna
mentation.
A long coat, rather shapeless yet grace
ful in its lines, is completely covered with
ruffles of accordion pleated chiffon. Er.ch
ruffle, or rather flounce, for they are deep
for ruffles, Is headed with a band of sable,
while down the front of the coat fall
jabots of rich lacc edged with sable. There
Is n deep rape and n hood lined with chiffon
and trimmed with lace and a band of sable.
The combination of the three materials—
the lace, the chiffon and the cloth—Is Invar
iably becoming and very smart.
This same coat Is copied In pale pink and
pale bine and the chiffon and lare arc dyed
to match the cloth, so that the touch of sable
forms a pretty contrast with the pink.
While sable is undoubtedly the best fur
to use on evening wraps. It Is possible to
put less expensive fur on the same wrap
and have It look exceedingly well. Chin
chilla looks well on the very pale gray wraps
and on pale blue.
Moleskin combines the becoming with the
unsatisfactory; so badly does It wear that
it Is used mostly In bands. This fur la es
pecially effective on white, blue, pink, yel
low. gray and, best of all, on n very light
shade of Its own. fcolor.
Ermine continues to be a favorite fur
for evening wraps and was never more
fashionable than It Is at present. It Is
put on In bands, revers, collars and cuffs, or
Is used In facing the fronts. On account of
the craze for combining all sorts of materials
it la often seen on a coat that Is trimmed with
sable or some other fur.
Indeed, there never was a time when such
a variety of fabrics were put on one garment
In the way of trimmings and linings.
Squirrel bluings.
A fur lining is very delightful In an even
ing wrap and Is liked for carriage wraps.
Here squirrel comes to the fore. This fur
did not prove popular for muffs and boas,
although It Is by no means out of fashion.
TEA, CHINESE FASHION.
The studio of Miss Mary Katherine Wright
Is as noted In the social life of New York's
artistic circles for the tea which Is served
there as It Is from a professional standpoint,
for the marvelous roses In water color, of
which she makes a specialty, most women
who are treated to a cup of Miss Wright's
tea acknowledge that It Is as much a mys
tery to them as It Is delicious. Never have
they tasted any like It elsewhere. But
one afternoon recently a missionary from
China and hts wife called at the studio,
and no sooner had they sipped the bev
erage. which was handed them In dainty
cup of bine and white china, than their faceB
lighted with enthusiasm.
“Chinese tea at last!” they exclaimed. “It
Is the first time we hare tasted It since we
returned to America.”
“The peculiar part of It Is," Miss Wright
■ays, “I hadn’t the least Idea that I was
making tea in the Chinese way. I thought
It was one I had discovered all by myself.
No, I never learned It anywhere. Old fash
ioned ways of brewing and serving ‘the
cups that cheer' never satisfied me, and I
have simply experimented for years, trytug
first one thing and then another, until I ar
rived at my present method, and I find that
every one else seems to like It as much as
1 do.”
Miss Wright makes no secret of the w ay
In which she brews her tea. "There Is no
reason why it should be a mystery to any
one," she says. "The flavor is the thing
of first importance. I find that this de
licious, aromatic flavor which every one re
marks In my tea can only be obtained by mix
ing together six flue brands of tea, such as
English breakfast, Japan, joung hyson,
oolong, gunpowder and orange flower, using
equal parts of each. 1 always watch my
grocer mix my tea for me, to see that he
portions It out carefully.
"In preparing the tea I first cut a lemon
Into very thin slices/ taking one slice for
each cup. These I drop into an earthen
covered Jar, together with an equnl num
ber of level teaspoonfuls of sugar. To this
I add the tea, allowing from a quarter to
a half teaspoonfnl for a cup. Then I mix
and mash the letnon, sugar and tea up all
together with a spoon, and let them stand
for half au hour, after which I pour on the
water, taking car# to have It boiling at the
time. I let it steep for Just two minutes,
and then drain It off Into a chiua teapot, and
'serve at once, putting a thin slice of lemon
In each cup The sugar placed with the tea
In the beginning usually proves sufficient,
but I always place a lump of sugar on each
saucer, in case any one should desire ad
ditional sweeting."
As a lining l^vx without equal, and both gray ,
and white. flfSfed separately or together, are
: much in demand.
A white fox lining Is not only fashion
able but useff*j and becoming, and collars
; of this provb a great addition either to
: '-oat or cloak. A very much cheaper sfyle
| of trimming and one that Is very effective
| Ik a boa made of white maribout or eoque
feathers worn >vlth a coat having a lining
| of white fox.
Very few of the evening coats are lined
throughout, and, indeed, it Is not thought
so good a plan to have the fur extend
much below the waist. Carriage wraps, on
the contrary, ore really hotter when com
pletely lined, while automobile coats have
| the fur on the outside and a heavy woolen
lining to make them warm enough.
Fur trimmed cloth costumes are made up
in elaborate style this year, and some ex
cellent effects are gained by the braided
bands of fur. This Is a curious fad, but
there Is much to recommend it.
A heavy jet am! \«! v i j..- .scmenterle or
braid put on Persian lamb looks u little ns
though one had tried to do over the fur,
yet this novel trimming shows to advan
tage, and the glossy lustre of the fur ns
seen through the openings of the passe
menterie Is rendered more effective by con
trast with the trimming.
Cnt Velvet Trim ml iijr.
At the moment there arc more short coats
than long ones being made up, and one very
charming fashion has the straight fronts
of fur embroidered with cut work of velvet
outlined with Jet; the pattern Is a very open
one, and the beads are of a long bugle shape
and the cut Jet. These hands of embroidered
fur are nsed on the block cloth costumes
and on dark green, dark red and even on
brown, although Jt must he confessed that it
is better to use brown fur with brown cloth
than to attempt a combination with black.
Several times we have spoken of the
number of patterns In fancy braids of passe
menterles edged with fur that are to be
founf !n the shops. In the passementerie
Is seen Just, a touch of color, either bright
red or pale yellow. On brown or red
gowns this Is one of the beat trimmings
that can be used, and the fur should be of
mink, when It cannot be of sable, although,
of course, nowadays, nobody who Is anybody
ever wears mink while there Is sable In the
market.
Chinchilla, when headed with the cutout
work of velvet, showing an embroidery of
cut steel bends, Is one of the most effective
trimmings that has ever been designed
and looks well on nil shades of gray.
Then there are the heavy white laces, em
broidered with Jet or steel and edged with
fur that are used for trimming broadcloth.
Altogether it would seem as though the
popular fancy for this winter had settled
upon broadcloth as a material, combining
the beautiful and offering more possibili
ties for ornamentation and elaboration thun
1 any other fabric.
Rainproof Veils, Gloves, Hats and Gowns for Mijady. .
Dross Is always an Interesting theme to :
discourse upon, but only after such severe
storms ns those of recent date do wo realize
how necessary It Is for every woman to be
equipped with n thoroughly rainproof cog
til me. From the practical Bhle It Ik Impos- |
slide to find anything more becoming In a
tailored suit than this (hie little costume
which Is made **f rubber-buck silk gloria In j
the gun metal shade. The nine gored skirt ’
and short Jacket are of the latest approved
model.
The rain coats In three quarter and full
lengths are shown In great variety, and cer
tainly these garments would seem to vie
jiiE. N'ev Wn And $nctv Gcsstume TfeEov And TbvDT’a'PurK Concealed In Tj-rZ ~
Tncrroa ■& Untbreeua Handle.
1 i
coat of Sroddc/olh axe/ Sable.
with each other In point of beauty, anrl all
are designed with thut special knowledge
and adaptability so desirable and neces
sary. Some rain coats are made bo elabo
rate as to serve for either day or eveiilng
wear. The new process by which the filmi
est materials can he made water proof
gives the manufacturers of these garments
and accessories a large and varied assort
ment of materials from which to choose.
So many of the coats and jackets arc made
without collars that stoles and cravats are
generally worn. These furs are not only
necessary, but very fashionable.
The tendency is strongly toward military
effects In the separate rain coats, and one ;
could scarcely conceive of anything mors
appropriate than an entirely rainproof mili
tary costume.
Kton Jackets.
Although the strictly tailored walking
suits are very popular, the dressier mod
els are commanding considerable atten
tion. Some of these have both skirt and
coat elaborately braided, while others have
plain skirts, with handsomely trimmed
coats. A smart little suit of dark bine chev
iot hud a white kid vest cleverly Introduced; |
tiny brass buttons were the only other trim
ming. •
As If there were not enough style* to !
choose from In the .'12 to 45 Inch coats, some
clever designers arc bringing forth the fitted I
eton, with elaborutely trimmed neck and
sleeves, braids of all kinds are used for :
this trimming, and the Oriental embroid
eries, with an Introduction of gold, often
form the coiiurs and cuffs.
•Siberian blue and “Tokal” red are among
the newest shades, but. It can hardly be ex- j
pected that those shades will rival in pop- !
ularltj the golden browns and ash grays, ;
which have the advantage of being becoming 1
and suitable to all ages.
The It ii In Veil,
With every season chiffon veils seem to 1
grow more popuiur, and at a time when
It was thought the veil with flowing ends
had outlived Its beauty there was intro
duced the four yard chiffon veil, which ;
shows a circle of wire on the crown of the
hat, to which the vel! !s shirred. This veil
covers the face, then crosses In the back
and 1h most becomingly knotted at the
[ left side, forming a loose, careless posette,
with the ends flowing. It Is made In a great
variety of shades. The plainest hut Is given
a most picturesque effect when worn with
this veil.
A showerproof or rntn veil Is the latest
novelty, having many good points which
should recommend It to every woman. It
is pretty, becoming and practically affords
protection to a hat from rain or dust, Is
easily adjusted, and when not In use can
be folded in a small case the slse of a pocket
book.
A Practical Glove.
A great problem has been solved In the
manufacture of this rainproof or spot
proof glove, which Is soft nnd pliable aa
the finest kid, bat through chemical treat
ment has been made Impervious to the ele
ments. These gloves, when soiled, can be
wushed and after drying stretched, when
they will be as fresh, clean and soft as be
fore. Considering how many times we dis
card gloves because they are soiled, these
gloves should certainly prove a great sav
ing for both dress and general wear.
Hlifth Boots Favored.
For rubber shoes with the high storm
front chore Is always a great demand. Al
though the high boot Is the only shoe giv
ing entire protection, the popular height la
not more than 10 Inches. Thc.se shoes can
be bud In black or tan Russian calf at prices
w hich will assure their success. The light
est weight sandals are generally used for
evening wear.
For Milady's Toilet.
The variety of umbrella handles Is con
stantly Increasing, and there Is no end to
the new and pretty novelties. One attract
ing unusual atentlou Is in the form of a
unique little powder bos, with a mirror lu
the top; ut other times this receptacle Is used
for a change purse. The handle is of porce
lain, with a miniature painting for decora
tion. Natural wood handles also seem to be
favored at preseut. These are often metal
trimmed or studded with jewels.
SPINNING WHEELS IN USE.
The old looms and spinning wheels of
plantation days an* now having their Inn
ing*, and some of wonderful beauty uml ef
fect are reproduced, lings und portieres
made from “carpet rags” are stunning and
are greatly sought by the artists for studio
furnishings, us their color effects are par
ticularly desirable.
it Is a very easy task to prepare these
rags, and there are still places where it Is
possible to hire the weaving done. Por
tieres woven from silk rags are very hand
some, and this seems such a sensible dis
position to make of cast-off silk clothing
and ribbons. Even though the “curpet rag
sewings” and “quilting bees” are classed
among the dissipations of the past, among
the little things that add inestimably to
the garnishment of the slttinf-room is the
decorative and alluring sofa pillow.
There Is a beautifully artistic design for
a cover worked out In colored grasses on a
green background. The materials for this.
Including design, can be bought for a mere
song, and any one who can thread a needle
can rnuke It. The result la very gratify
ing, and this cover will stand out among
many of far greater cost.
There are also the embroidered t a pea
tries, very modern and very highly col
ored. The effects are good In the main,
though the less pretentious cross stitch de
signs on canvas for table covers, pillow rov
ers, etc., are really prettier.
A novel and dainty little picture frame
has a delicate flowing design made entirely
of narrow ribbon appllqued on silk. This
Is prettier than embroidery, and suggests a
daintiness and delicacy that con never be
produced In embroidered designs. This rib
bon work ran be carried out in coarser fab
rics with good effect.