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A Sensible Simplicity Marks September Styles - The Short Skirt
Still Reigns- Colored and Flannel Shirts - Sweaters are Quite a Fad, and Chapeaux are of the Simplest Kind. With the opening of the game season, which In most states arrives tho first day of September, there Is an Immense amount of activity in country camps and cottages that are at all adjacent to those wilds where game of any kind may be reason ably expected. The English fashion of “going out with the guns," as they phrase It over there, Is one that does not cross the Channel to France, and the Frenchwoman believes that she Is straining the conventions—and Inci dentally, her own claims to "womanli ness"— to the uttermost when she accom plishes the luncheon party that meets at some appointed place, as soon after noon has passed as may he convenient. That she should herself shoulder a gun and at tempt a shot would prove a horrifying suggest Ion. The very nearest that she will come to It Is to don a short walk ing costume, In some one or another of the pretty brown heather mixtures, and accompany It with a hat In which a wing of grouse, pheasant or ptarmlgnn relieves the velvet trimming. Then she really and truly believes that she Is an enthusiastic "sulvante de sport," or a follower of sport, to give It a literal translation. With horror she regards her English sister and American cousin who boast of their skill with rifle and shotgun, who can whip a trout stream or land a salmon. To her they are simply so many hoydens, tom boys, and she draws her pretty chiffons and laces around her and fervently thanks Providence, or her guardian angel (or whatever It Is that she privately substi tutes for those time-honored Institutions) that she Is not nR they. But she misses a lot of fun, does this fastidious Frenchwoman, If she but knew It! On this side of the water, where our girls are brought up to the same free dom and rivalry In all outdoor sports sb are their brothers, the arrival of Septem ber Is hailed with Joy. In camp and cot tage, by mountain and moorland, outdoors Is the thing. "Ia vie en pleln air," which the French talk so beautifully about, but which they leave to other nations to prac tice, is the thing; and the simple life Is carried out most assuredly In clothes, If not In all other considerations of the dally existence. The lack of laundry facilities will usu ally forbid the indulgence In a number of lingerie w’nlsts during the camping aeason, unless the wearer wishes to play at being blanchlsseuse herself. The ex treme coolness of the weather, however, on the mountains Is likely to discourage the wearing of such thin and filmy fancies; and a good heavy cotton cheviot or xnad dras, or even a washable flannel—one of the unshrinkable kind—will prove far the better and more suitable choice. The best makers who turn out those tailor made things—or rather It would be nearer the truth to sny shirtmnker-made— are calling all of them shirts nowadays, Just as though they belonged to the ward robe masculine, rather than to the feminine affair. A broad shoulder Hue, a stay yoke in the back and n plain severity of cut distinguishes them from the frilly and fluffy things that have been accepted under the title of shirtwaists, lienee, perhaps, the reason for the chunge of name on the part of the mannish makers. The girl who hies herself to the moun tains Just now without nt least one sweater—how this scribe does devoutly wish that some more fragrant name for those Indispensable garments would or could be Invented, a trial of the English name of Jersey, even—In her trunk will keenly regret the oversight ere many days have passed. There are so many chinks In the day's or the week's outing that only the sweater can fill and Oil com fortably. Like so mnny other garments In all de partments of dress, It Is the hnnd-made sweater that Bets the pace for all the rest. The old time art of knitting has been revived, nnd Just at this present writing It bids fair to become a perfect furore. For one thing, the hand made sweater goes through the processes of the laundry and comes out In far better shape than does its confrere of the ma chine factory. In fact, the art of washing the sweater Is one that Is usually per formed best by the amateur, for It re quires an amount of time and care and skill that the average laundress finds It cither Impossible or impracticable to be stow upon tills work. Soap, ns soap, must not touch the garment, It must be In the form of pure suds. Then all of the rins ing waters nnd they must be many If success Is to he achieved—must be of ex ftctly the same temperature. The article must not be wrung or twisted, for this spoils the shnpe; rather must the water be squeezed out ns from a sponge, and the garment dried In the shade. All of which, us already remarked, takes time, and quite considerable of It. The white sweater Is conspicuous by reason of Its numbers, and the foregoing remarks nnent demising will apply In full force. There Is a new shade in wool known variously as clilnculUa and par tridge, a pretty mixed gray which Is bound to be serviceable, and Is altogether lacking In the air of hard utility which belongs to the usual run of gray worsteds. Contrasting yokeH, collars, cuffs and belts appear In relief on some of them, and leather trimmings are by no means unknown, rockets, too, of the patch va riety attach themselves to the coat sweater, nnd one sees both the high col lar nnd the collarless variety, the one uhout as often as the othi . The good roads that ubound throughout the states are temptations to make auto mobile tours the plan o*. vacation rather than selecting one spot nnd "staying put” there for a more or less protracted period. The fashions that have been devised for auto garb are fascinatingly attractive, nnd no woman need fear not looking her "very bestest best,” ns a small girl the nursery puts It, In such attire. The *ats are Just of a size to accord with the very latest styles; serviceable wings and ribbon loops, bows nnd rosettes makes the trimming, nnd then one can drape and swathe the head in the moat bewitching of automobile veils, so that the tints of the flesh, the color of the hair and the contour of the features are all brought oi * to the utmost perfect!* \. “If ye have cnarms prepare to show them now,” one might prraphase the old time and much hackneyed quotation anent tears, where automobile and travel* ,lng Attire Is under discussion, and 1t ! matters not whether one be^ of the state ly Juno type, tall of figure and classical of feature, or partake of the petite nnd fetching class, small and slender of build* and Irregular of feature, there Is a spe cial style and fashion In auto attire which will suit your own particular genre down to the ground. The girl of athletic tendencies will wel come warmly the vogue which the open throated and short-sleeved shirt has made for Itself In these last few weeks. For merly It was necessary to roll up the sleeves Into nn uncomfortable bunch above the elbow, whence they were eter nally slipping down, to the annoyance of the wearer of such makeshift. Home few spirits, bolder than the rest, deliberately cut off the sleeves of their golfing shirts above the elbow, either finishing the re sulting abbreviation with plain hem, or more rarely, replacing the cuff as a finish. Now, however, that particular double breasted design that was Introduced for equestrian wear and Intended to be worn with an Ascot nnd stock, has made a special niche for Itself with the golf nd tennis maids. The chemisette—of some one kind or another—is worn until play begins, when It Is discarded and the open-throat maintained all through the game. The short sleeve, which Is almost standard now on the shirtwaists of all kinds, lends Itself delightfully and com fortably to nil sports, Indoors and out, and one rather Imagines that It will more umn hold Its own until another outdoor season swings around once more. Sweaters Are In Hiigh Vofcne. There are so many chinks In the ward robe that the sweater fills, and fills to perfection, that the cause or reason of its vogue Is not far to seek. As are all other departments of the wardrobe, It Is the handmade article that sets the pace for all the rest, and many a work bag and workhnsket this season has held long knitting needles and balls of worsted Instead of the usual embroidery frume nnd bunch of colored embroidery silks. Hooks giving directions as to the mak ing of sweaters after several different stitches and designs are In great demand, nnd since they are to be had as low as a dime or a quarter, there is uo excuse— save only the potent one of lack of time —for the omission of n smart hand-knit sweater from the autumn outfit. The coat shape has well-nigh ousted all others from the field. This Is as might bo expected, for since the sweater Is re lied upon to take the place of a coat during country residence, the coat shape naturally suggests Itself to the mind of the maker. A shorter sleeve than here tofore, and the absence of the deep col lar or neckband mark the latest patterns, and It goes without saying that the eter nal fitness of things demands that only a short walking skirt be worn with the sweater of today. Wedding Gifts of Corals and Cameos. "Corals and cameos are what wo are selling our elderly patrons for wedding gifts nowadays,” remarked a well-known Fifth avenue jeweler. "Doubtless, It Is because they are In high vogue once more furnishes the main reason; but there Is usually a little vein of seutlment likewise In such a purchase, for many of the dames are Just about an age to recall that those two things were in extreme fashion at the time of their own mar riage—their first marriages, I often have to remind myself when waiting on them— and they like to give to their young rela tives who are Just entering upon bliss lu double harness things that recall their own entrance Into that land of joy. "A pretty set of cameos went out from here the other day," he continued, “to S bride who can count her persouul for tune in six figures, and the initial one is not a small uumber, either. There is'a belt. * collar and bracelet all of square cameos, alternated with a filigree square In gold, at each corner of which is a pearl and a fluely cut diamond In the center. Let those who sneer at cameos and call them middle-class and old fashlofled see such a set as this, and they Wi.. swiftly change their opinions In this respect. “A wonderfully pretty set in coral which a wealthy and much-feted bride received from her mother's family con sists of ft deep revlere of pale pink beads, with pearl slides catching the strings at Intervals. Since the young matron pos sesses on unusually long and slender neck, this gift bad to be held up for a couple of weeks, until we could match the beads and add three strings to the necklace, making new slides to fit the extra length. In addition to this, there Is also a string of cabochons of goodly size, of the flat lozenge order, quite round and with a whole pearl strung between each “button.’* A beautiful set of coat or corsage buttons, the same cabochons as make the necklace, set In silver gilt filigree, makes an unusual addition; and there Is an extremely pretty tiara in which those same cabochons make the base; gold filigree studded with several sites of coral surmounts this, and the top Is of pear shaped fine cabochons that point upward. The material for this set took some two years to get together; and it wus not until I had n prospective cus tomer In view that I mounted It up after this style. The tiara I pride myself particularly upon, It being something altogether unique, equally suitable to blonde, brunette or chatalgne chevelure; and far prettier, I think, for a young girl than diamonds or even pearls could be. “Oh, yes; corals are away up In price, and very much in deinaud; and a string of good color corals, if of good size, Is a oregent bjr no to be despised now I II . -0-1 />!zzgjst £zzrvzis’^irco Ojzezx niz^Sjaxj:, The Girl With Nothing a Year To dices upon became confidential the other day, and “gave away" some of the many secrets that disclose her manner and methods of making a smart appear ance upon the slenderest possible ex penditure. “And in reckoning up expenses, I al ways count in my time, too,” she added, sagely. “You know, most of us think that anything that will prevent the spending of a dollar Is commendable, no matter how much time it may take. But 1 don’t. I count my time ns though it were money. “The cleaner’s and dyer’s windows are positive storehouses of inspiration for me. I study the gowns In the window's for new and novel ideas; and It is rarely that such a hunt does not yield up some thing. It may be a combination of mate rials such ns I had not thought of before. It may be the playing of a. button, a twist of ribbon or a quilling where most of us would put a ruche. But whatever It is that catches my eye. down It goes at once in my little sketch book, and then I have It to call upon when needed. “In silk and lingerie petticoats I have a few “wrinkles" that I pride myself particularly upon. I have Just two petti coat tops, where silk is concerned; and those two do their full duty. One is black and one is white; aud they are of that Jersey silk that fits over the hips without sea . or wrinkle. For each of these I have an assortment of flounces. White and delicate tints for evenings, and some extremely smart and gay plaid, shot and even plain silks, to put on the black top for every day. “But you need not think that I put in my time and put out my eyes working buttonholes on those flounces whereby to attach them to buttons on the skirts. Not at all. I have a trick worth two of that. I merely get several pieces of strong Torchon beading, sew one strip on the extreme edge of the flounce and another on the skirt. Then with a ribbon threaded bodkin I simply run a ribbon through the two headings, the one lying exactly on the top of the other, and there U the new flounce applied In a jiffy, and ho that It cannot possibly come apart, cither. Try It yourself sometime, and see what n comfort it is,” she added. “Just now the shops are offering rem nants of really good silks for next to nothing at nil. Three or four yards will make a smart flounce; and since hand work is not at all requisite here, one can make two or three on the sewing machine in very little time. I try cord ing the hems of mine with featherbone cords, and they certainly do make one’a dress skirts set better, and particularly those that I hare to make with more or less of a train to them. Where the drop skirt is not held out by some such means the train dress skirt Is apt to sug In somewhat; and this little device does certainly hold it out Just about right. It makes for such a frilly and fluffy effect that I just dote on it; and I do think that my frocks set better over my own make of petticoats, even though 1 say it, who shouldn’t” Colored Bands. Colored bands are asserting themselves strenuously upon all of the gloves that march through the custom-house from France tbese days. If one la to Judge by quantity, pale pearl, gray and a faint lilac tint In glace are to be most worn; and It is possible to get slmoat any tint of baud to those. A remark able proportion Is In two, fonr and six button lengths, which looks as though the elegantes expected to forego the short sleeves for street wear, at any rate. All of the putty, .flcelle and mode shades are on view in suede, and from 2 to 24 button lengths are ordered In those. For evening wear there are all sorts of fanciful decorations and elabora tions on the long-arm gloves, from the wrist to the elbow, and less often to the shoulder, being elaborated with em broideries, both In silk and the tiny Marie Antoinette rtbbona, lace medal lions, band Insertions and wbat not. Fashions for Camping and Country Life. The Latest Summer Girl. The extremely short skirt that had things pretty well all Its own way last season 1b conspicuous In ths later order of things chiefly by Its absence. Only on the tennis ground—where a backward reach after the ball may end in a fall because of a too long skirt—does the old-time short skirt prevail, and here only because of force of circumstances. Its successor comes well to the Instep, and Is supposed to cover It when the newer mandates of fashion are regarded. The box-pleated skirt Is a welcome vari ant upon the ubiquitous sunburst pat tern. and In the plaids that are surely creating a wide vogue for themselves they are particularly attractive. The one Illustrated la In a soft melange of browne with a pale blue and gold stripe, respectively, defining a large block, and overlying the softer browns that make the plaids. Such a design la referred to In the trade as an overplald. The cut Is of circular persuasion, the box pleats lying small and close together at the waist line, spreading out In fan shape toward the foot, where a plain hem makes the finish. The smart sailor hat displays the telescoped crown done In alternate rows of white and brown Milan, the brim altogether of the white— one of the bleached milk whites—and the color scheme accentuated In the trim ming of brown velvet ribbon that en circles the crown. Comfort Rolee In Onttngr Costumes. The summer girl of this year of grace has elected that a sensible plainness and utility shall mark the costumes destined for mountain and seashore wear; and great Is the comfort gained thereby. The colored blouse or shirtwaist — the beat maker* are shortening the name to •‘shirt,” quite as though It belonged to the realm of mac’s rather than woman's attire—Is very much to the fore In younger circles this summer; and for the cool morning that one encounters In mountain regions and resorts, the striped, plain or plaid flannel shirt Is quite the thing. An emi nently practical model Is that of the pic ture. In which a nonshrlnkable flannel In pink and rose stripes on a paler pluk ground Is used. There Is a yoke across the shoulders In the back, the fronts plain, but for a couple of small and unobtrusive pleatB either side of the throat fasten ing, and the necessary fulness across the chest arranged for In the broad cnt under the arm. The sleeves are comfortably full at the top and pleated Into a self cuff that Is caught together with link buttons and worn turned up. A detach able flannel collar and a patch pocket— one of the Insignia of this year's make— complete the design; and rather large pearl buttons are used for all fastenings. The smart sunbonnet of sheer mull, very much shirred and berlbboned, Is another of the fads that have sprung up rather late; but It Is none the less wel come and becoming for all that. Short Sleeves and Open Throat Prevail. With each new aport that la Introduced, there come new eoetumes and modifica tions of established styles to meet Its many requirements. For example, the golf links and the tennis courts invite one to the short sleeved blouse of loose cut' and easy fit, so that there Is no tight ness of garment to mar the freedom of movement at any part or point of the game. Some of the extremists make the sleeve a mere frill below the shoulder, omitting even the semblance of a cuff for fastening. Others, more conservative, bring the sleeve and Its regulation ahlrt cuff to below the elbow, but leave the wrist bare for a full and free play. The wearing of a chemisette Is quite an open question. Many there have been In the various tournaments that have held place, both on this and the other side of the Atlantic this summer, who wear the chemisette right up to the moment of play, then roll up the sleeves and discard the throat covering, much to their ease and comfort In play. The double breasted type of shirt that was Introduced for equestrian use In the late spring time Is muchly favored for all sports this sum mer, and there la not the slightest doubt but that the cold weather will see this style developed In silk, flannel, velveteen, and even In corduroy—which latter, Inci dentally, la promised a continuance of Its former vogue. A Modish Sportawomsa, The opening of the hunting, or tba open, season as some sportsmen prefer to term It, bring hla sister very much to the front. Nowsdays, the girls of the family are quite as keen after game of all sorts as are their maacullne relatives; and smart to an extreme are the gar ments that they display on those auspic ious occasions. England rather than France furnishes the designs for those gowns; end service ability Is their first prerequisite. Leather coats are among the smartest things of fered, and since they are wind and water proof, light In weight nnd thoroughly comfortable they Justify their proud posi tion in the sportswoman's wardrobe. Moat usually they are chosen In the soft and dull shades of brown that will accord well with the foliage of the woods In September; and when on a deer bunt render their wearer bo much the lea* conspicuous against a woody background. The coat la of the loose semi-fitting order, with a high collar that can be strapped close around the throat or turned over at will; a double-breastad fastening and an abundance of pockets adding to lta charms. Fashions in Fall Footwear. The trying effect of light-colored foot wear, both in shoes and hosiery, is clev erly mitigated in some of the latest styles. This is done with a colored top to the shoe, which top the hose is sup posed to match in hue, while the vamp is of either brilliant patent leather or a dull kid. For evening wear those are pretty with a white, pale blue or pale pink top to a patent leather in black, the silken hose of the delicate tint, with clocks wrought on the ankles either in white or black. The latter fad is deemed espe cially piquant, and one sees it on all tints and shades of silken foot cover ings. As for the shoes themselves that aid in this pretty fashion, the Du Barry tie is back again under the name of the pompadour this time. Two or three square or oblong eyelets, usually silver rimmed, serve to hold It together over the Instep, and the ribbon lacing Is tied at the bottom Instead of at the top, the lacing, of course, being formed in re verse of the usual way. There Is an up standing tongue to this style that is a welcome boon to the girl whose Instep is not particularly well arched on top; and a conspicuously short vamp goes with ^his style,- all of which is flattering to the average foot. Toes are much more pointed and heels higher in the new dress shoes than they were in the spring and summer models; and in place of the ubiquitous and over done pump the oxford last is the one in which the dressiest models arc beiM made over.