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The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, August 12, 1906, Comic Section, Image 28

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85038485/1906-08-12/ed-1/seq-28/

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A Sensible Simplicity Marks September Styles - The Short Skirt
Still Reigns- Colored and Flannel Shirts - Sweaters are Quite
a Fad, and Chapeaux are of the Simplest Kind.
With the opening of the game season,
which In most states arrives tho first day
of September, there Is an Immense amount
of activity in country camps and cottages
that are at all adjacent to those wilds
where game of any kind may be reason
ably expected.
The English fashion of “going out with
the guns," as they phrase It over there, Is
one that does not cross the Channel to
France, and the Frenchwoman believes that
she Is straining the conventions—and Inci
dentally, her own claims to "womanli
ness"— to the uttermost when she accom
plishes the luncheon party that meets at
some appointed place, as soon after noon
has passed as may he convenient. That
she should herself shoulder a gun and at
tempt a shot would prove a horrifying
suggest Ion. The very nearest that she will
come to It Is to don a short walk
ing costume, In some one or another of
the pretty brown heather mixtures, and
accompany It with a hat In which a wing
of grouse, pheasant or ptarmlgnn relieves
the velvet trimming. Then she really and
truly believes that she Is an enthusiastic
"sulvante de sport," or a follower of
sport, to give It a literal translation. With
horror she regards her English sister and
American cousin who boast of their skill
with rifle and shotgun, who can whip a
trout stream or land a salmon. To her
they are simply so many hoydens, tom
boys, and she draws her pretty chiffons
and laces around her and fervently thanks
Providence, or her guardian angel (or
whatever It Is that she privately substi
tutes for those time-honored Institutions)
that she Is not nR they.
But she misses a lot of fun, does this
fastidious Frenchwoman, If she but knew
It! On this side of the water, where our
girls are brought up to the same free
dom and rivalry In all outdoor sports sb
are their brothers, the arrival of Septem
ber Is hailed with Joy. In camp and cot
tage, by mountain and moorland, outdoors
Is the thing. "Ia vie en pleln air," which
the French talk so beautifully about, but
which they leave to other nations to prac
tice, is the thing; and the simple life Is
carried out most assuredly In clothes, If
not In all other considerations of the
dally existence.
The lack of laundry facilities will usu
ally forbid the indulgence In a number
of lingerie w’nlsts during the camping
aeason, unless the wearer wishes to play
at being blanchlsseuse herself. The ex
treme coolness of the weather, however,
on the mountains Is likely to discourage
the wearing of such thin and filmy fancies;
and a good heavy cotton cheviot or xnad
dras, or even a washable flannel—one of
the unshrinkable kind—will prove far
the better and more suitable choice.
The best makers who turn out those
tailor made things—or rather It would be
nearer the truth to sny shirtmnker-made—
are calling all of them shirts nowadays,
Just as though they belonged to the ward
robe masculine, rather than to the
feminine affair. A broad shoulder Hue,
a stay yoke in the back and n plain
severity of cut distinguishes them from
the frilly and fluffy things that have been
accepted under the title of shirtwaists,
lienee, perhaps, the reason for the chunge
of name on the part of the mannish
makers.
The girl who hies herself to the moun
tains Just now without nt least one
sweater—how this scribe does devoutly
wish that some more fragrant name for
those Indispensable garments would or
could be Invented, a trial of the English
name of Jersey, even—In her trunk will
keenly regret the oversight ere many days
have passed. There are so many chinks
In the day's or the week's outing that
only the sweater can fill and Oil com
fortably.
Like so mnny other garments In all de
partments of dress, It Is the hnnd-made
sweater that Bets the pace for all the
rest. The old time art of knitting has
been revived, nnd Just at this present
writing It bids fair to become a perfect
furore. For one thing, the hand made
sweater goes through the processes of
the laundry and comes out In far better
shape than does its confrere of the ma
chine factory. In fact, the art of washing
the sweater Is one that Is usually per
formed best by the amateur, for It re
quires an amount of time and care and
skill that the average laundress finds It
cither Impossible or impracticable to be
stow upon tills work. Soap, ns soap, must
not touch the garment, It must be In the
form of pure suds. Then all of the rins
ing waters nnd they must be many If
success Is to he achieved—must be of ex
ftctly the same temperature. The article
must not be wrung or twisted, for this
spoils the shnpe; rather must the water
be squeezed out ns from a sponge, and
the garment dried In the shade. All of
which, us already remarked, takes time,
and quite considerable of It.
The white sweater Is conspicuous by
reason of Its numbers, and the foregoing
remarks nnent demising will apply In
full force. There Is a new shade in wool
known variously as clilnculUa and par
tridge, a pretty mixed gray which Is
bound to be serviceable, and Is altogether
lacking In the air of hard utility which
belongs to the usual run of gray worsteds.
Contrasting yokeH, collars, cuffs and
belts appear In relief on some of them,
and leather trimmings are by no means
unknown, rockets, too, of the patch va
riety attach themselves to the coat
sweater, nnd one sees both the high col
lar nnd the collarless variety, the one
uhout as often as the othi .
The good roads that ubound throughout
the states are temptations to make auto
mobile tours the plan o*. vacation rather
than selecting one spot nnd "staying
put” there for a more or less protracted
period.
The fashions that have been devised for
auto garb are fascinatingly attractive,
nnd no woman need fear not looking her
"very bestest best,” ns a small girl
the nursery puts It, In such attire. The
*ats are Just of a size to accord with the
very latest styles; serviceable wings and
ribbon loops, bows nnd rosettes makes the
trimming, nnd then one can drape and
swathe the head in the moat bewitching
of automobile veils, so that the tints of
the flesh, the color of the hair and the
contour of the features are all brought
oi * to the utmost perfect!* \.
“If ye have cnarms prepare to show
them now,” one might prraphase the old
time and much hackneyed quotation
anent tears, where automobile and travel*
,lng Attire Is under discussion, and 1t !
matters not whether one be^ of the state
ly Juno type, tall of figure and classical
of feature, or partake of the petite nnd
fetching class, small and slender of build*
and Irregular of feature, there Is a spe
cial style and fashion In auto attire
which will suit your own particular genre
down to the ground.
The girl of athletic tendencies will wel
come warmly the vogue which the open
throated and short-sleeved shirt has made
for Itself In these last few weeks. For
merly It was necessary to roll up the
sleeves Into nn uncomfortable bunch
above the elbow, whence they were eter
nally slipping down, to the annoyance of
the wearer of such makeshift. Home few
spirits, bolder than the rest, deliberately
cut off the sleeves of their golfing shirts
above the elbow, either finishing the re
sulting abbreviation with plain hem,
or more rarely, replacing the cuff as a
finish.
Now, however, that particular double
breasted design that was Introduced for
equestrian wear and Intended to be worn
with an Ascot nnd stock, has made a
special niche for Itself with the golf nd
tennis maids. The chemisette—of some
one kind or another—is worn until play
begins, when It Is discarded and the
open-throat maintained all through the
game. The short sleeve, which Is almost
standard now on the shirtwaists of all
kinds, lends Itself delightfully and com
fortably to nil sports, Indoors and out,
and one rather Imagines that It will more
umn hold Its own until another outdoor
season swings around once more.
Sweaters Are In Hiigh Vofcne.
There are so many chinks In the ward
robe that the sweater fills, and fills to
perfection, that the cause or reason of
its vogue Is not far to seek. As are all
other departments of the wardrobe, It
Is the handmade article that sets the
pace for all the rest, and many a work
bag and workhnsket this season has held
long knitting needles and balls of worsted
Instead of the usual embroidery frume
nnd bunch of colored embroidery silks.
Hooks giving directions as to the mak
ing of sweaters after several different
stitches and designs are In great demand,
nnd since they are to be had as low as a
dime or a quarter, there is uo excuse—
save only the potent one of lack of time
—for the omission of n smart hand-knit
sweater from the autumn outfit. The
coat shape has well-nigh ousted all
others from the field. This Is as might
bo expected, for since the sweater Is re
lied upon to take the place of a coat
during country residence, the coat shape
naturally suggests Itself to the mind of
the maker. A shorter sleeve than here
tofore, and the absence of the deep col
lar or neckband mark the latest patterns,
and It goes without saying that the eter
nal fitness of things demands that only
a short walking skirt be worn with the
sweater of today.
Wedding Gifts of Corals and Cameos.
"Corals and cameos are what wo are
selling our elderly patrons for wedding
gifts nowadays,” remarked a well-known
Fifth avenue jeweler. "Doubtless, It Is
because they are In high vogue once
more furnishes the main reason; but
there Is usually a little vein of seutlment
likewise In such a purchase, for many of
the dames are Just about an age to recall
that those two things were in extreme
fashion at the time of their own mar
riage—their first marriages, I often have
to remind myself when waiting on them—
and they like to give to their young rela
tives who are Just entering upon bliss lu
double harness things that recall their
own entrance Into that land of joy.
"A pretty set of cameos went out from
here the other day," he continued, “to
S bride who can count her persouul for
tune in six figures, and the initial one is
not a small uumber, either. There is'a
belt. * collar and bracelet all of square
cameos, alternated with a filigree square
In gold, at each corner of which is a
pearl and a fluely cut diamond In the
center. Let those who sneer at cameos
and call them middle-class and old
fashlofled see such a set as this, and they
Wi.. swiftly change their opinions In this
respect.
“A wonderfully pretty set in coral
which a wealthy and much-feted bride
received from her mother's family con
sists of ft deep revlere of pale pink beads,
with pearl slides catching the strings at
Intervals. Since the young matron pos
sesses on unusually long and slender
neck, this gift bad to be held up for a
couple of weeks, until we could match
the beads and add three strings to the
necklace, making new slides to fit the
extra length. In addition to this, there
Is also a string of cabochons of goodly
size, of the flat lozenge order, quite round
and with a whole pearl strung between
each “button.’* A beautiful set of coat
or corsage buttons, the same cabochons
as make the necklace, set In silver gilt
filigree, makes an unusual addition; and
there Is an extremely pretty tiara in
which those same cabochons make the
base; gold filigree studded with several
sites of coral surmounts this, and the top
Is of pear shaped fine cabochons that
point upward. The material for this set
took some two years to get together; and
it wus not until I had n prospective cus
tomer In view that I mounted It up
after this style. The tiara I pride myself
particularly upon, It being something
altogether unique, equally suitable to
blonde, brunette or chatalgne chevelure;
and far prettier, I think, for a young
girl than diamonds or even pearls could
be.
“Oh, yes; corals are away up In price,
and very much in deinaud; and a string
of good color corals, if of good size, Is a
oregent bjr no to be despised now
I II . -0-1
/>!zzgjst £zzrvzis’^irco Ojzezx niz^Sjaxj:,
The Girl With Nothing a Year
To dices upon became confidential the
other day, and “gave away" some of the
many secrets that disclose her manner
and methods of making a smart appear
ance upon the slenderest possible ex
penditure.
“And in reckoning up expenses, I al
ways count in my time, too,” she added,
sagely. “You know, most of us think
that anything that will prevent the
spending of a dollar Is commendable, no
matter how much time it may take. But
1 don’t. I count my time ns though it
were money.
“The cleaner’s and dyer’s windows are
positive storehouses of inspiration for me.
I study the gowns In the window's for
new and novel ideas; and It is rarely
that such a hunt does not yield up some
thing. It may be a combination of mate
rials such ns I had not thought of before.
It may be the playing of a. button, a
twist of ribbon or a quilling where most
of us would put a ruche. But whatever
It is that catches my eye. down It goes
at once in my little sketch book, and
then I have It to call upon when needed.
“In silk and lingerie petticoats I have
a few “wrinkles" that I pride myself
particularly upon. I have Just two petti
coat tops, where silk is concerned; and
those two do their full duty. One is
black and one is white; aud they are of
that Jersey silk that fits over the hips
without sea . or wrinkle. For each of
these I have an assortment of flounces.
White and delicate tints for evenings,
and some extremely smart and gay plaid,
shot and even plain silks, to put on the
black top for every day.
“But you need not think that I put in
my time and put out my eyes working
buttonholes on those flounces whereby to
attach them to buttons on the skirts.
Not at all. I have a trick worth two of
that. I merely get several pieces of
strong Torchon beading, sew one strip
on the extreme edge of the flounce and
another on the skirt. Then with a ribbon
threaded bodkin I simply run a ribbon
through the two headings, the one lying
exactly on the top of the other, and there
U the new flounce applied In a jiffy, and
ho that It cannot possibly come apart,
cither. Try It yourself sometime, and see
what n comfort it is,” she added.
“Just now the shops are offering rem
nants of really good silks for next to
nothing at nil. Three or four yards will
make a smart flounce; and since hand
work is not at all requisite here, one
can make two or three on the sewing
machine in very little time. I try cord
ing the hems of mine with featherbone
cords, and they certainly do make one’a
dress skirts set better, and particularly
those that I hare to make with more or
less of a train to them. Where the
drop skirt is not held out by some such
means the train dress skirt Is apt to
sug In somewhat; and this little device
does certainly hold it out Just about
right. It makes for such a frilly and
fluffy effect that I just dote on it; and I
do think that my frocks set better over
my own make of petticoats, even though
1 say it, who shouldn’t”
Colored Bands.
Colored bands are asserting themselves
strenuously upon all of the gloves that
march through the custom-house from
France tbese days. If one la to Judge
by quantity, pale pearl, gray and a
faint lilac tint In glace are to be most
worn; and It is possible to get slmoat
any tint of baud to those. A remark
able proportion Is In two, fonr and six
button lengths, which looks as though
the elegantes expected to forego the
short sleeves for street wear, at any
rate. All of the putty, .flcelle and mode
shades are on view in suede, and from
2 to 24 button lengths are ordered In
those. For evening wear there are all
sorts of fanciful decorations and elabora
tions on the long-arm gloves, from the
wrist to the elbow, and less often to the
shoulder, being elaborated with em
broideries, both In silk and the tiny
Marie Antoinette rtbbona, lace medal
lions, band Insertions and wbat not.
Fashions for Camping and Country Life.
The Latest Summer Girl.
The extremely short skirt that had
things pretty well all Its own way last
season 1b conspicuous In ths later order
of things chiefly by Its absence. Only
on the tennis ground—where a backward
reach after the ball may end in a fall
because of a too long skirt—does the
old-time short skirt prevail, and here
only because of force of circumstances.
Its successor comes well to the Instep,
and Is supposed to cover It when the
newer mandates of fashion are regarded.
The box-pleated skirt Is a welcome vari
ant upon the ubiquitous sunburst pat
tern. and In the plaids that are surely
creating a wide vogue for themselves
they are particularly attractive. The
one Illustrated la In a soft melange of
browne with a pale blue and gold stripe,
respectively, defining a large block, and
overlying the softer browns that make
the plaids. Such a design la referred to
In the trade as an overplald. The cut
Is of circular persuasion, the box pleats
lying small and close together at the
waist line, spreading out In fan shape
toward the foot, where a plain hem
makes the finish. The smart sailor hat
displays the telescoped crown done In
alternate rows of white and brown
Milan, the brim altogether of the white—
one of the bleached milk whites—and
the color scheme accentuated In the trim
ming of brown velvet ribbon that en
circles the crown.
Comfort Rolee In Onttngr Costumes.
The summer girl of this year of grace
has elected that a sensible plainness and
utility shall mark the costumes destined
for mountain and seashore wear; and
great Is the comfort gained thereby. The
colored blouse or shirtwaist — the beat
maker* are shortening the name to •‘shirt,”
quite as though It belonged to the realm
of mac’s rather than woman's attire—Is
very much to the fore In younger circles
this summer; and for the cool morning
that one encounters In mountain regions
and resorts, the striped, plain or plaid
flannel shirt Is quite the thing. An emi
nently practical model Is that of the pic
ture. In which a nonshrlnkable flannel
In pink and rose stripes on a paler pluk
ground Is used. There Is a yoke across
the shoulders In the back, the fronts plain,
but for a couple of small and unobtrusive
pleatB either side of the throat fasten
ing, and the necessary fulness across the
chest arranged for In the broad cnt under
the arm. The sleeves are comfortably
full at the top and pleated Into a self
cuff that Is caught together with link
buttons and worn turned up. A detach
able flannel collar and a patch pocket—
one of the Insignia of this year's make—
complete the design; and rather large
pearl buttons are used for all fastenings.
The smart sunbonnet of sheer mull,
very much shirred and berlbboned, Is
another of the fads that have sprung up
rather late; but It Is none the less wel
come and becoming for all that.
Short Sleeves and Open Throat
Prevail.
With each new aport that la Introduced,
there come new eoetumes and modifica
tions of established styles to meet Its
many requirements. For example, the
golf links and the tennis courts invite
one to the short sleeved blouse of loose
cut' and easy fit, so that there Is no tight
ness of garment to mar the freedom of
movement at any part or point of the
game. Some of the extremists make the
sleeve a mere frill below the shoulder,
omitting even the semblance of a cuff
for fastening. Others, more conservative,
bring the sleeve and Its regulation ahlrt
cuff to below the elbow, but leave the
wrist bare for a full and free play. The
wearing of a chemisette Is quite an open
question. Many there have been In the
various tournaments that have held place,
both on this and the other side of the
Atlantic this summer, who wear the
chemisette right up to the moment of play,
then roll up the sleeves and discard the
throat covering, much to their ease and
comfort In play. The double breasted
type of shirt that was Introduced for
equestrian use In the late spring time
Is muchly favored for all sports this sum
mer, and there la not the slightest doubt
but that the cold weather will see this
style developed In silk, flannel, velveteen,
and even In corduroy—which latter, Inci
dentally, la promised a continuance of Its
former vogue.
A Modish Sportawomsa,
The opening of the hunting, or tba
open, season as some sportsmen prefer
to term It, bring hla sister very much
to the front. Nowsdays, the girls of the
family are quite as keen after game of
all sorts as are their maacullne relatives;
and smart to an extreme are the gar
ments that they display on those auspic
ious occasions.
England rather than France furnishes
the designs for those gowns; end service
ability Is their first prerequisite. Leather
coats are among the smartest things of
fered, and since they are wind and water
proof, light In weight nnd thoroughly
comfortable they Justify their proud posi
tion in the sportswoman's wardrobe. Moat
usually they are chosen In the soft and
dull shades of brown that will accord
well with the foliage of the woods In
September; and when on a deer bunt
render their wearer bo much the lea*
conspicuous against a woody background.
The coat la of the loose semi-fitting order,
with a high collar that can be strapped
close around the throat or turned over at
will; a double-breastad fastening and an
abundance of pockets adding to lta
charms.
Fashions in Fall Footwear.
The trying effect of light-colored foot
wear, both in shoes and hosiery, is clev
erly mitigated in some of the latest
styles. This is done with a colored top
to the shoe, which top the hose is sup
posed to match in hue, while the vamp
is of either brilliant patent leather or a
dull kid.
For evening wear those are pretty
with a white, pale blue or pale pink top
to a patent leather in black, the silken
hose of the delicate tint, with clocks
wrought on the ankles either in white or
black. The latter fad is deemed espe
cially piquant, and one sees it on all
tints and shades of silken foot cover
ings.
As for the shoes themselves that aid
in this pretty fashion, the Du Barry tie
is back again under the name of the
pompadour this time. Two or three
square or oblong eyelets, usually silver
rimmed, serve to hold It together over
the Instep, and the ribbon lacing Is tied
at the bottom Instead of at the top, the
lacing, of course, being formed in re
verse of the usual way. There Is an up
standing tongue to this style that is a
welcome boon to the girl whose Instep is
not particularly well arched on top; and
a conspicuously short vamp goes with
^his style,- all of which is flattering to
the average foot.
Toes are much more pointed and heels
higher in the new dress shoes than they
were in the spring and summer models;
and in place of the ubiquitous and over
done pump the oxford last is the one in
which the dressiest models arc beiM
made over.

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