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Costas off'Futu.rnef ^fLK are Gay sad Graceful Co-erect arvd Sporty To§s Cot? CKe Devotee oC 'Radtn^ r j i A- Typical Costume o£ U\e Grands land, 'YY'iVn. Parasol and SilPocn Coalee Stunning Frocks, Hats and Gowns Worn By the Smart Set At Opening Days of Belmont Park Racing - Dainty Wraps a Feature - Motor Raiment - Midsummer Footwear. BALF the costumes of the Paris Mondaine are planned with a view to exploitation at the races. Auteuil, Longchamps, and later the Troutvillo races bring out gowns and wraps that set the I fashion for half the world and every 1 couturier of note has two or three I mannequins togged out in the last ! word of the mode, at every race meet. American press representatives who ♦report fashions go to the races for copy and the day after a big race, | the new models from Paquin, Poiret j and other couturiers are described at i length in English and American pa pers while tho horses ostensibly the raison d'etre of the occasion are scarcely known by name outside of the Immediately interested sporting set. In fact the equine portion of a big race, in the estimation of the dressmakers, manufacturers of worn !en’s garments and women readers of the fashioib news are merely "also rans,” necessftry features of the day, but not nearly as Important as the Paris-Inspired toiletterf In grandstand, club house and paddock. This spring racing has been revived after a period of somnolence in New York and the delight of the fashion ables at Us revival was evidenced by the throng of well-dressed people at Belmont Park on the initial day. The law has put its ban on racing for money—as far as professional betting and bookmaking go, but enormous private bets may be made over a horse race as readily ns over a yacht race or game of bridge, and the races goffering opportunity for sport, soei il ability and the display of lovely cos I tumes are an important addition to ; summer activities in fashiondom. I Knowing Paddock Costumes Affected By Younger Women. | Youthful members of the smart set, who adore picturesque effects, fitting the picture, so to speak, wear at the graces, trimly tailored coat and skirt costumes on mannish lines. One of these paddock costumes is pictured. B It is made of snowy serge and has a I Jaunty belted coat above a narrow, perfectly cut skirt short enough reveal the toe of the white boat. The patch pockets, belt, mannish notched ? collar and big white pearl' buttons give the coat a sporty, knowing look ' which is enhanced by the field glass ^ In Its dark leather case, slung across the shoulder. With the costume are Fworn l\eavy white washable dogskin gloves and a stunning hat of soft white felt, trimmed with Post Im pressionist ribbon. Young women on the box seats of coaches and drags wear sporty, man nish coats, also. These coats hang j loosely from the shoulders and are of white or very light tan cloth, with pearl buttons and much stitching at edges and seams. Such a coat often accom panies a white tailored frock of serge, mohair, or worsted and mohair mix ture, white buttoned buckskin ffboots and a rather small white hat. Flesh pink chiffon veils, worn with these Ahltp hats and costumes this Bum Etinar, add a pew and charming color luoMi l Grandstand Wraps of Silk and Brocade. In contrast with these mannish coats are the graceful, clinging wraps worn with grandstand costumes. This is the heyday of the silken wrap and countless fetching models may be seen on a race day. The Parisian particu larly loves a loose wrap, and Ameri can women, inherently preferring trimly fitting garments, have become educated to the mantle-like wrap and wear it with almost if not quite as much grace as Parisiennes. A typical grandstand wrap Is pictured in the model of American Beauty brocade. This wrap has the new cut, the ma terial being tossed over the shoulder and then drawn around under the arm and attached to the front por tion under a line of trimming—in this instance a line of pleated quilling be ing used to cover the seam. This manipulation of the material gives the wrap close and clinging lines below the hips and makes it fall in the ap proved, straight fashion at the back. The American Beauty wrap pictured, forms part of a charming color scheme. It is worn* over a frock of biscuit colored lansdowno and cream lace, and the very Parisian button strap slippers are of light tan suede worn with stockings of the same tint. The reticule of black velvet adds the sharply contrasting color note neces sary to accentuate the combination of pale tan and American Beauty tones. The hat is a rose colored straw model with American Beauty colored plumes and the handsome ostrich collar iB in a soft shade of rosy gray. The sleeves of this wrap are particularly graceful with their trimming of pleated white frills banded with black velvet ribbon. W'hitc Dresses With Striped Sashes at *Tenon Kuces. At Longchamps, one day recently, several women wore white crepe de chine frocks garnished gayly with Bayadere and Roman striped sashes. One of these frocks had four flounces of mallnes lace on the skirt and the sash was In Roman striping of tur quoise, tea rose, amethyst and shrimp pink. With this lovely costume went a leghorn hat trimmed* with lace and tea roses, black velvet streamers fall ing at the back and adding telling emphasis to the delicate tones of the costume. White dresses touched up with nar row fur bands have also been a fea ture of the French races this sum mer. One such frock, worn by a very youthful woman, was of dead white machine embroidery veiled with a net tunic, the tunic being bordered with skunk fur. A band of the same fur and one big red rose trimmed a white hemp hat, anil with the costume were worn the Inevitable criss-cross strap slippers which Parislenneg are affect ing now. These slippers are usually of suede and the straps button aagoss the Instep, revealing very thin silk stockings. Americans dislike fanciful footwear, and adhere to trim, daintily fitting buttoned boots and oxfords, the material thereof matching the cos tume. Sometimes the boot is of pat i ent leather with a buttoned top of Tele b.in.4 W'naps s Fealure oC ttve ■RacmSj Season •— • ■ r Grays s.n.d BlacK form a Tore Symphony in. ITU'S Fr>eTi.ch Fr>ocK gray or mastic suede; sometimes it is entirely of suede; and with white ! costumes white buttoned buckskin boots are the favorites. Slippers and pumps are seen also, though the but toned boots are generally worn with formal gowns. Slippers with very bril liant buckles are being dropped by the exclusives now that such buckles with a meretricious and not a genuine cut steel sparkle, are being sold at fifty cents the pair in the shops; and the covered leather buckle is considered better form. Parasols a Feature of Race Days. One of the gayest features of any out-of-door occasion in summer time, is the array of colored parasols, lifted over charming costumes which a»e trailed across lawn and paddock. Cherry colored sunshades and mus tard yellow ones predominate in French crowds of fashionable folk this year; but Americans love the white parasol which seems to complete so perfectly a thin midsummer costume. The white parasol pictured Is a can opy model of white handkerchief lin en and machine embroidered medal lions, set together with tiny frilled pipings of white net. A pleated ruf fle of the net also borders the parasol 1 and the handle of white wood is set with pink and white cameo. This cameo is part of the color scheme of the costume, for the net skirt veils a slip of flesh pink silk, a band of lace being set on the skirt beneath the net drapery, at the knee. The folds of the skirt are drawn Into narrow lines by one of the new oblique sashes—-of flesh pink silk and lace, which starts at the left hip and Is drawn downward and knotted back of the right knee, the sash crossing the skirt obliquely both at back and front. Over this veiled flesh-tinted skirt falls a capti vating little coatee of Nattier blue charmeuse, trimmed with shirred bands, and having a deep collar of the charmeuse edged with a black net frill over a white net frill, and an In ner collar of very sheer batiste em broidery edged with Irish banding. The looped up sleeve Is particularly smart. A black hat adds the accentu ating note to this grandstand costume. A Stunning Gray and Black Frock Worn at Autcull. One of today's Illustrations Is a snap-shot taken at'Auteutl and shows an exceedingly chic qptsume all in soft tones of gray and black—-a fav qred combination just now of certain aristecratic mondaines who like to be different from all the world—dressed in fast and furious Futurist and Post Impressionist hues. This particular frock Is of black lansdowne, the straight, narrow skirt having a tunic to the ankle, the underskirt beneath dragging limply about the feet and j lifting with every step, at the back in . the odd but modish fashion of skirts j this summer. Black patent leather | boots with buttoned tops of gunmetgl gray suede accompany the frock i which has a deep yoke and sleeve of V . \ gunmetal gray chiffon, mounted over flesh pink tulle to give the semi-nude effect now in vogue. The broad, draped sash of black satin rises part way over the bodice and falls at the back in one long end which is looped under at the knee. In front, the bod ice divides in a deep V over a tucker of white net, small steel buttons edg ing the V'd opening. An Important part of the smartness of this costume are the shoulder scarf of steel em broidered gray crepe de chine, and the hat of black net with its extraor dinarily long streamers of black vel vet. Black hats accompany a large ma jority of the frocks worn at the races, and many of these black hats are draped With black veils which are drawn smoothly back under the chin, the ends floating at the back. Such veils are not large—i-they fall scarcely to the shoulders, and the upper edge is sewed fast to the hat in the new French fashion. Sometimes the veil is thrown ba k, veiling the colored trimming softly, and sometimes the exquisitely dainty pattern of the veil makes a becoming screen over the face. Futurist Coats Gay and Cheerful. Few formal costumes of the type worn on the grandstand or at the club house at dinner hour after the races, are coatless. There is almost Invariably the softly clinging little wrap, or Its twin sister, the gay and coquettish little silk coat. Some of these coats are made of plain colored silken stuff, as In the case of the Nat tier blue coatee above described; and many are of the new Futurist and Post Impressionist silks, than which no material could go farther in regard to gay and glaring hues. The Futur ist silk coat pictured, has pink and pale yellow roses on a deep green ground, and a hint of mauve Is worked into the design in the way of a festooned ribbon. No definite pat tern appears, however, as the silk is accordion pleated throughout and a blurred blend of all the colors is pre sented to the eye. The coat is a sim ply cut affair, with wide, set-in sleeves edged Vlth pleated frilling. A collar of Bohemian lace falls over the shoul ders and at the waistline the garment is bloused over a sash of mauve taf feta. This coat accompanies an in tricately draped gown of llla£ tinted lansdowne and the Jaunty hat is in lilac and violet tones. The black suede reticule and black boots with buttoned tops of pale gray suede tone down the varied colors of the cos tume. MONOCLES THE SUMMER FAD. VNOMEN who do not possess a modish monocle, wear a lorg natte or a watch at the end of the black ribbon sautoir chain which gives such a snappy touch tj summer costumes. Monocles are extremely fashionable and are affected by young girls as well as older women whose eyes really need assistance. mORE sorts of aprons may be found at the apron-table of any church fair, than the fancy ever conceived of. Some of these aprons are practical; some are pretty; some are enchant ingly useless and decorative. The masculipe mind usually prefers the decorative kind, for of all attributes of feminine dress, dearly does man love the demure fichu and apron—in his estimation the badges of home-loving womanhood. Among the useful aprons may be listed the kitchen apron of gingham, the housewifely apron of the brand new bride—an adorable affair of pink percale with a becoming cut and but tons at the back which somebody must fasten in order to adjust the affair prop erly—the artist's pinafore of blue lin en with long sleeves and a huge pock et in which a paint rhg may be tucked; the trained nurse’s immaculate apron; the chambermaid’s morning apron of A Special Apron for tile Sick-Room, white cambric and the nursemaid's nursery apron. Under the head of purely decorative aprons come the afternoon tea apron, the chaflng-dish apron, and the coquettish apron of the parlormaid. Sewing aprons hover be twixt and between. Some of them are strictly businesslike—for example, the voluminous apron which the dress maker-by-the-day ties on before start ing work and which is equipped with various pockets, and pincushion and shears dangling from tapes. Then there is the fetching piazza needle work apron, made of dotted swiss and lace with artful ribbon bows; or of silk or some other tinted material that gives tone to the whole costume. Dotted net makes the prettiest sort of apron and if the cut is oval the effect will be more dainty than in the case of a square-cornered apron which seems to proclaim itself immediately as strictly utilitarian. One of the aprons pictured, is dotted net and white lawn combined in a novel way. Each fabric is cut In deep Vandyke points and the points are dovetailed together under an entre deux of Cluny. To make this apron, lay half a yard of dotted swiss and l^lf a yard of fine white lawn together, each fab ric overlapping the other about ten iftches (the depth of the Vandyke points). Baste the materials together and with a ruler and lead pencil, mark lines for the Vandyke points. These lines can be ruled best on the smooth surface of the lawn. Now baste carefully along the ruled lines which will attach the materials to gether at the intersection or dovetail- I ing of the points. Baste narrow cluny insertion or entre deux, over the bast ing stitches which hold the materials i together, clipping away the lawn and swiss outside the points as you go along and stitching the cluny down along bot^i edges. Bands of blue rib bon are stitched below tha Vandyke points on the dotted swiss and the apron is finished all around with a ( lace frill, set on under an insertion of the cluny banding. The star and circle shaped decorations are medal lions of Irish crochet lace, appllqued to the dotted swiss; but these deco rations are not essential to the dainti ness of the apron and mdy be omitted if desired. The apron with a fichu surely ful fills all masculine ideals of what an apron should be, for it combines the two aforesaid badges of gentle wom anhood; namely, the fichu and the apron, in its tout ensemble. This pretty apron is not unlike the coquet tish afternoon apron of the parlor maid; but a maidservant, correctly dressed, never wears ribbon bowknots, and usually machine embroidery and not lace trims her apron and cap. The frivolously pretty apron pictured is of organdie trimmed with three ungathered frills of val lace, each frill being stitched over the next %ne. The fichu is shaped to fit smoothly over the shoulders, the pleated front portions being atttached under a band of lace, to a flat, collar-like back por tion. Fichu and apron are attached to a hemmed belt of the organdie which buttons at the back. A fascinating little chafing dish apron may be made from a man’s linen handkerchief. One corner of tho handkerchief is separated from the rest of the square by a double row of shirring and over this shirring is stitched a short length of embroidery beading. Itlbbon, passed through the beading, ties around the waist, and the little corner above tho shirring forms a tiny bib. The handkerchief is edged all around with two rows of lace, stitched together as in the pic tured apron with a fichu, and a couple of smart bows to match the ribbon ties will finish off the aprop in proper style. In striking contrast to Buch frivo A Fetching Tea Apron Accompanied By a Fichu. lous affairs Is *he big apron for sick room wear. Illness often occurs In the home and nobody likes to go Into an Invalid’s room In a soiled gown, bearing testimony to work in the kitchen or other parts of the house. On the other hand, the service in the sickroom may require an apron to protect a dainty frock, and in any case, it is desirable present one's seif to the invalid, be that unfortunate person child or adult, in a fresh, neat attractive uniform-like costume. The apron pictured fulfills all these condi tions. It is made of blue and white striped percale and protects bodice, sleeves and skirt thoroughly, while it may be fastened in an instant with a singlo button and buttonhole at the back of the belt. The rutile at the foot is not added merely as a trtm ming. Every housekeeper knows the valuu of a ruffle at the foot of a kitch en apron in protecting the edge of the skirt from liquids spattered or spilled. A handy little woman who can drive a nail without hitting her thumb, pos sesses an apron that Is the Joy of her heart. She calls it her workaday apron and it Is made of khaki and Is worn over full bloomers to the knee, al9o of khaki. This apron buttons at the back and has a bib and shoulder straps. an ordinary shirtwaist being worn under it. * There are several pockets across the front; one of the right size to accommodate a hammer, another for tacks or nails; still an other for pins, needle and thread or whatever else may be needed when one happens to be at the top of a stepladder putting up curtains. Notes and Novelties BABY WIM, CtmniiE IT TO THIS HOT WATER BAG. CHE rubber hot water bag will take up very little room iri the vacation trunk, and it may be an unex pected friend in need during the weeks away from home. Good health, fine spirits and a hearty appetite are bless ings anticipated and even taken for granted on a vacation sojourn In the country, but toothache or earache have a way of cropping up in the night after children have eaten candy or taken cold and neuralgia and rheu matism sometimes attack older folk If a rainy spell of weather sets In. Then copies the cry for a comforting hot water bag to tuck against one's back, or at one’s feet, or under one’s pillow, to drive away gruesome pain with Its grateful warmth. Children sometimes object to a hot water bag unless the water is so tepid as to be of no use. One mother has hit upon the scheme of dressing up the family hot water bag in a doll’s kimono of outing flannel, and to this Is fastened an indestructible doll’s head covered with a flannel cap, the cape of which falls over the top of the kimono. This liveable and rosily warm bedmate ap peals to baby’s heart and the little sufferer who would scream frantically at an ordinary hot water bag of rub ber, will cuddle up close to the kindly dolly that soon makes the pain less. AN ATTRACTIVE BRIDGE PRIZE IS A TEA BAIT. TTjfNEW tea ball Is shaped like a PR miniature tea kettle, lid, spout B and all, and the kettle hangs by a silver chain from a small crane. The crane Is of gun metal finished silver and Is about six Inches long, with an extended arm at right angles to which the teapot Is attached. The crane may be fastened to a pillar of the veranda, or the casing of a window near the tea table and the little kettle which is of course perforated, may be lifted off whenever it is needed for use. Dotted Net and Eye Used In Novel Effect On nils Apron.