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IHK RICHMOND DISPATCH-S UN DA Y. FEBRUARY 20. 1898. &?X ? <-??._ <r^-^*?iL ?r-U*9t ALL GRKKK TO MKN. tin ?nraaauiiasj letter on ^AIJlK, AND TRK1R IIEA,),.,-ut. THE LATEST^T MILL1KERY. ><>^'tlr. tn BlTap^-iT^ Innovation. ??? Matsrial-llat. laatml .?..?1 lint. Ornamental-Met.t Halts nnd 11? lewrlled Girdle?. (C,,r: ? of the Dlspntcn > new y(?i:k. Fmbtrwar, ... ,(.?s tale of the new and beautiful la mim Bealde thf novelties tn ?napes th-re are several innovations in material. Vegetable 8Uk hos be.n turned to Ihe greatest advantage for silky Plilts. ready to be converted into b-ts or bonnets. Th?-y are far less expensive than the satin straws, nnd are a marked feature in the spring modes. We are not to have dismal col? orings; tho ?style of plaiting Is the same. In all. showing a pointed erige on MM slda, and recalling the plaits that we were all skilful in doing some years ago, in paper, which were mm;.? up Into very ntgble baskets. But w.'i plaits aro vegetable silk or of satin straw, they' are quite a study in color. Turquoise, light pink, bright heliotrope shades are used alone, but m?>re orten they are blended with gray, while brown is combined with pink, blue with rca, and gray with green. Tnere are some ?ue effects, and those ai*S Ugh! and Charming, and SO ?iro tne The straws are of light weight, but tho vegetable buk is lighter sttil, and there is a great tteei of black and white, and satin and SIM are blended with the straw In some ex amp! CAN ANY MAN READ THIS? We are faithful to pellettes, their reign Is not at all over, and many <>f the I bonn? y composed ot ??quins overlapping each other, WtUlS made In black net, work lUlns, aro BUI4* round? ?1 by wired rings covered WHO. the same texture and elaborately em biol.lei.il; they are all quite different 10 anything wo have had J bapei all the mor., unique, ?rpm the plaits and the quaint snaps uy of the crowns. Often surro by straw plaftlngs.' Many tartan mix i borderini wns, Bui besio . there Is a great novelty in the rainbow ciotn, which has a strong tenacity <?r thread, -t like horsehair, displaying chine la In various colorings, and always This is employed for the Tarn <V Bhaater crowns. s?-t In hard cir hich are oovered with tno material. This fabrlo Is made in I of tones -sometimes the groundsrork ii yellow, sometimes green, mauve, blue, and pink?a bunch ot lea? thers mostly figures at the side. HATS OF TDK I" SKI "PL SO?ttT. There Is a great deal or novelty witn tawtki I of the useful kind for country bicycling wear. We nave not away from the boat shapes, but they will not be nearly so much worn ?lot-, though there aro lomi mlng hats with high crowns, sligtuiy sunk In at the top, and narrow brims, turning up on either side, surrounded oy X?-^ a band of velvet With a quill tnrust : ttonolly light; it is to M in wUt? and many colora but one In black, tor U i r a ?lull i ?r mourning. This is mad.- up i ,J In sailor shape, and gr, are ug-j. other tint. V ? tuiiy I crown with leather, the with satin, a I \. !v.?t In in the front which makes them set nrm ly on th. - Of various kinds are being I up Into sailor hats, ki.m oiaex accustomed to; but not : HOW With Vlo: to brown with black, ana ;i mixtures, or with gold. A great mar. nats m color under the brim. which is a becoming traatment, moro daily to women who bays i their premiere Jeunesse. Llght-e hats with light-bin.- and light-ptnk v<t rib!. .:i round, are lil;.-iy to |. I worn i and white Japan.se chips, wit n stthOT or light-colored b.tn.is. There na hals, WBlCh delightfully light, too? and thdae ?1 oih.-r colors inti r the brim. There is quito a boom m for 'cycling purpo Till". PRENCU The tailor has a broader brim Igbtly higher crown than tin i is likely to ?form n , There is Maes i the Dak>ta, wtii.-ti is uni round, a, \\ hieb - ! ha?, straw in VlVld I The M- rldame li another : h it high crown and I i. ; in line it-raw, with n h the side of a velvet band, ird ??ne, th? material if an Inch ? i shown In v in the even piaft. Tuscan re In favor even for the brOad? brlmn ' ' ' '" lru' lock, and th.* NeW , re to be 11 ; saodss tu kW IS up Into high 01 '"i ladies' ami ; name <?f Robin H.C ,r of tliait historical : rowni have not gone out, but | which look as If they had .) in by a saucer sre newer. j". i -,t white and brown rail? . by me houses f?ir the early - . . ckl'il and Selt-COlOrod ones. girls soft satin and Ptlk 'lam c Shooter crowns are let into cnip Hnu brims, by all of wntoh WS may !:ion is not likely to be monotonous In TUL HALO HAT. // I T?ie halo hat. which heads our first ?A column this week, Is a coarse butter I a straw, brimmed on the outside H U. . of black velvet ribbon. Tne T same ribbon Is used for strings. The only ,'' fa??*, irlmmlng Is a wreath resting on | , the hair, <>f salmon pink roses. *f\ No. 2 Is an appl?s-green silk straw, "N with bunches of white roses nestun* J In the pleats of the crown, Quills give] ft btlkbx t?> the left side. ** Xf'tytb third hat is a blended ?yhite ana htraw, with a high trimming ot "' lar;;e pink silk blossoms. A wreath ana ft velvet is all the trimming re Cf I 'i-ir- l by the novel scoop thtpe touitti column, while the last, but ?ot ' ? least, ii a ballotrop? Tarn o' Bhunter toque I u* i set far back on ifae head, aad bsautinao by lavender and black plumes and pasta buakle. through a velvet knot In from. HEADGEAR OF MIXED HKOWN STRA \V. The? first hat in our second column is a mixed brown rough straw, b?nt into ??? coming curv?-s. At the left sl?ie, tilling in the tilted brim, Ik a chic bow or ??rang?? '. A second bat. are,] bow of brown velvet surmounts Mils and a wreath ot shade?! green and In own ivy leaves nearly covers the outsldo of the hat. The s? cond hat Is a shepherdess, a coarse braid of pale-yellow, with 11 and ribbon loops for trimming. Tho third hut, a leaae, Is compose?! entirely or violets. Its gr.at style consists in tn<? finishing touch being given by a bow or blre-blus velvet. The next model is for country wear, and th?* last one or varieties of the new pompadour SB has violets and green leaves only lor trimming. OIRDLES AND KELTS. Some of the new metal girdles have a' profusion of jewels Ml in them and little of the metal can be seen. Keel gam in many frasca tlotd, stiver, and ! ai?? the favorites Just now. Peacock featbera bave alu*ajri " or, in Other v' unlucky, but the "hoo?loo" Is now ? by using in connection with tn< f.athers a common bean. This lucky ? bean takes ths place or i small l< and .? mounted entB gold ana. others arc atudded with jewels. The belts wt?tb i ens bhow sometimes the entire : -metlmes merely tne with ?-reel | the novelties. belts we illustrate are examples of the reivet belts studded ?with fewela and ths fli sails girdles confined by Jewelled SIMMS V ?... .nst.ned by an enamelled buckle? i gu?rite, now favorite of tho t-'rencn The dainty btOUSS we give this week is a taffeta covered with a diamond baliece work of chiffon rods How She Did Her Duty. (New York Journal.) The big liner came up the bay, st< UP the river, and was soon docked at Its dock. Tb?- customs officers were on land, Madams ?'loimpignon Alouette, the celebrated French traveller, was id. They had been apprised of h.r coming. I ! with du' articles, they \. I Id. She must ; tank came Madam.- Champignon, with a Fren.-h 1 oodle and :i smile of similar nationality. The officers, one un?i ail, crowded around her. "Have you anything dutiable, Madam?" ?. . t, mi ! have ten bottles of ... ttlsksy, thirty bottles of cham of kid gloves, tw? rings, six i ear-rings, one string of pearls, ?.ill diamonds, tv nineteen pairs cuff buttons, ninet?, one boxes clgar-a?" "Ail right, madam, Ze gentlemen have all fan "I thought they would. Come, let us go." { eg~4-^t_f?-4-r ' "(?_> ^ SLIDING DOWNWARDS HARD TIMES KNOCKING AT THK IDLER'S HOSPITABLE DOOR. A SAMPLE OF SIMPLE ENGLISH. Two Sides to a Mooted Qaaation? Bridal Presents and the Way They Are Acknowledged?Nobody Pleased About Them. Hard times have struck our part of tne town, and we aro slipping, sup- j slipping down the awful de? cline of poverty. W'hrre once the B-COiorad potatoc-ple graced tne board at the hour of dessert, tne eye now rests on the sober brown or I qpplSS. Where onco the gory roast its ruddy glow, we now shiv.-r In the reflected glare of obese bacon, while fragrance of our quondam ry has 1.n overwhelm?-d by the ail-at.? orblng perfume of cabbage. The discs**? id from my office janitor, and now go to make up the garments of our lit110 No more do? - the oook desport her* "ff ?lotlung of tne Com manderdft-Chlef, fur l Mil to tne Idem In second-hand ??ir king, sinking, sinking. And so, also, we are struggling, struggling, strug g?tig tO an. s rill laws of gravi? tation that earn i.r ?..ik ?town, it s a plucky Sght, \uth the Oddfl In tavor "l j.? v 11..'. and the Usier. And | ??1 UM -, ths harder it is to deed, is ? ?.vher? doesn't make p. ri. ? i -am****? na tu ts to !? an er. We are retrenching and reform? ing as fast as they pull down circus tents night perforHiance. au ttie extra Miv.-.l, ami we now i on the memory of wnat WS Wo ti - 'all the 1. lays that are gone, and ib? n. awakening t'r??m our piv'n>iis : realise that the only surviving is that which runs on luv promissory notes, and bean t h lnte it runa. And OB ths long winter evenings, wnen twilight - r tne irpet and cloud tne Btrugi .i K!".im from our stcaiy ar a sign t r. m ths redoubtabls i ?f tne a, but this 1 do not p i sert. | or no sigh, her energy is not oi for dear! te sift tas ?.I to onler down th? r ubiquitously around tne ?. in the days of potato-pie ana tort In our back alley were allowed ths bsaeflts of Um : now the Commandcr-ln-Chlef lias succ. i th.-m in office, and the reward ts ours, it v ?*? Is not pride, or a haughty spirit of supe? rno! -. thai prompts me to wear a long t a I l.-d coat; it Is the perforation of my careworn trouo-rs. Neither do 1 wear galoshes, from fear of Imagined dampnes-, on the Streets, but out of deference to my shoeless socks. W'e are slipping, slip? ping, slipping; and, like the road to Aver nus, we find "the descent Is easy. . The children didn't know anything was wrong In the beginning, and on the first day, srhen Stewed apples were substituted f??r pie. they chuckled with delight at the change anil at? so much that we al I the pie would have been So. also, on tho second day rejoiced In bread toasted with moin SS es and besmeared their happy fangs with most liberal allowances of this diabolical compound. Rut by and by, when the mantle of Indigence began to rest h' aVily on cur shoulders, there was a juvenile rebellion and stewed fruit and ere repudiated. Pie was <*n i by a unanimous vote, and candy was demanded for the Idle hours of th?j ' ?'rover Cleveland arose In his Juve? nile might and protested against his suit that was "made out of pi's cast-off pants." becauoe, forsooth, the neighbor? ing urchins recognized the cloth as of old, and commented th?-reon, as only mean, bad boys can do. Marmaduke wept be a he could not go to the circus, and refused to be comforted when I tried to tell him that the parade was far better than the performance. W'e are slipping, slipping, slipping. Down, down, the awful we go, but the Commander in-Chlef is dying game, and maybe, the " world doesn't know. When com? tes. p!<i onco more r?'gns, and it is only by the most supreme efforts ' and many winks from the Commander's I aye, thai we hold the cMldrea in chec and thwart their tell-tale commenta. S? ?aleo, "n the Sabbaths WS stilt stalk fort OB tl.?- boulevards with an air of fade ir?the shabby Commandtir-ln chief aecur? I Bad I exultant in the long-tailed coat We linger not where ths sun shine: brtghteat, for loi is the great - ipota, but tarry In the shad; dow cloaks the wrinkle in old elotb v> 1 re once the celluloi? collar and the poika-?!"t ,rav>' in the noonday brightness, th>. r?-> is n??v the sober tie of black and the 1 y the dame who als?? does th? iag. When they SSk us to buj ts to the chureh fairs or to chip oui qaartera into the many charitable jack In vogue, wo sigh and say "We are not g"{!ig ?ait this winter; thai we have 1 ?.ne." This dear one t.y the arajr, ?s the caaary, who was forced to adjourn sine die, on account ol th<- la-k of birdseed in our houashol<L For BT-ontna -yea, almost >.-.ir^. I have making a ch?-mical analysis of rty, with the hope of discovering on.: pleasant Ingredient in it. but so far mv auceess is ..nly equaled by the alchemists In their search for gold. Hut ev.-n as b healthy appetite can take off Its Irit t?. herrings and molasses, and thank Its stars for pepper and ?alt, so. IB this hour of retrenchment ; ?yments, bow to the Incvl i'ir melancholy with ?rcdlents?hope and cheer fulnei . Don't use big words. 'Tis true, they're about the only thins you can use with out extra cost, but all the same you had ma alone. They're mighty apt to tangle you up and throw you down before you get through with them, and then the fellow wbo had to look in the dictionary for their meaning will have the laugh on you. In language, as m cvery-cay life, the longest pole does not always get the persimmon, but on the contrary, the most cumbersome polysyl? lables sometimes fly back like a boom? erang and mutilate you. The f?mowing injunctions, which, for terse and simple Anglo-Saxon have no equal, are com? mended to the public, though I am not responsible for them: In promulgating eaoterlc cogitations, or articulating superficial sentimentalities and philosophical or psy.'hologica: Bervationa. beware of platitudlnou* pon- I derosity. Let your statements posse?.? a ?lainini conciseness. ?umpa ' 'd compre-( henalblenesa, coalescent consistence, and a concentrated' cogency. Eschew all con- . glomeratlons of flatulent garrulity, Jejune babblement, and asinine annotation?. ? ? ? ecessary to use Jaw-breakers i.-n i your i>xtemporBn?80us ?!e<?cantlngs and unpremeditated expatlatlon* have n llgibilltv and veracious vivacity, wit' lontade or thrasonical bombest. Se? dulously av?.ld all polysyllable profund? ity, psitta. v, ventrlloqual ver? bosity, and vandlloquent vapidity; shun double entendre*, purlent jocosity, pestiferous profanity, obscurent or .p parent. . The partridge and Molly eotton-tall s?aeons are now over, but ?'npld Is still gunning after big game, and has his a well filled with matrimonial vic? tims. They say people ar?- dying now who n before, and It Is the same way with marriage?. In fact. It Is princi? pally those who have hitherto had no risnce that are trying ?the hymenlal experiment. This condition ot affairs rally ?.pens up discussion con? ing weddings and their pleasant and agreeable feature?*. From the standpoint of the contracting parties?or j i parties, as a country correspondent re? cently expressed It?there Is only a ro? s?gate hu?> about the buslnes?, but we of the initiated outside may have dif vl'-ws. As Illustrative of the con? trariety of opinion between the "happy couples" and those who shower rice upon them, we may mention this subject of \ wedding presents?a diabolical custom In? augurated miny years ago by some In? dividual who owes an apology to hu? manity. We of the Initiated ar.? not over? ly-enthusiastic when an opportunity comes for a display of our hypocritical ?T'lK'rosity, and when several opportuni? ties come the same week or the 'same month we are loud In our protests?that is. behind the backs of the future Kil? kenny cats. But the diabolical custom to which I have alluded holds us up to the scratch, and allows no soope for our In? dignation. We may rip and snort as much as we pi ?ase, but we alv. ays pay tho tax. Has there ever been a case, ; dear, gentle, tight-fisted reader, when the presents were not profuse and handsome, and when wo did not help to make thorn ' so? Yea, even though the prospective Sabbath trousers or the plumed I, gear were mi riti? > ?I. ?~e bave ? otitrlbuted our quota of berry forks ami sugar-tongs. Full well we know that It is partly due to our reluctant magnanimity that the w? 1 ding guest looks on a scene of glitteri-if, gewgaws and tinselled trinkets. And for ; the time being?that Is, until they learn to know each other well?the 1 of these treasures are much pleased, and would even oonesnt to make an affidavit that marriage is not a failure. Their views on the subject of wedding presents are different frdtai ours. . But, after the bill for our present, the thing that most rubs our fur the wrong wa*y is the note of thanks from the bride. For years after we havs made our dona? tion we feel that she and h-r husband should be ?Veeply grateful to Ua, therefore, wh.-n we receive a card en. dorsed "Please accept many thanks f?>r your beautiful present," we foam at the mouth and ?nap fiercely at all the that hover around us. W'e ?.re told to accept many thanks?possibly a hogshead full of them?and yet. when we go I cept them, we find the whole outlay dished up on a visiting-card. This, we say. Is the reward for the Sabbath trou whl? h wero sacrificed on the altar of Hymen; this, we exclaim, is the grati? tude tendered In exchange for the new bonnet, which would ha v.? n< at least nlno visits to th.- milliner's and put ?ill the f.-male memben of our con? gregation to the blush. And In our bit? terness against the world In general, young married COUplee Is rush wttdlv to our helgbbora ai I tell them our trfl They, too, have con? tributed orange spoons and lugar-tongSi and they, too, are bid I thanks for their beautiful presen) .\ ii.is likewise been need to convey ths gratitude to them. By this time we hav tbS ' ally do in ...Id weather, anyhow), and we contii. ni toms of hydrophobia. Finally, -, one housohol?! where the expressions or thanks are different Here we find an individual who lias been told that "v..; ?that is, tho re u!>-w, , ?3 or our contempt) ar.- so much obliged for your pretty and u.-.-ful present." This information Is also conveyed on the back Why this sud'len outburst of originality we ask? The reason is plain. Two parsons in the same house fent ntB. One 1 ir formula. Tho other got a - f thanks, which, at least, was different from tin Insipid utterances that evoked our wrath. But there are two sides to every ques? tion. While w?3 thus bay at the moon, the bride, having now broken her t>es tlferous new shoes, assumes th.! tmWSaO of a wlf< ".er of her huOWfto't 1 Quallt* Returning from t9'trlp on which her spou tided that money was no . him, she a look at the I Moh once s lighted her. Then she sighs. "K? of them," lb. bless-takt-d on.? to be arla. who did send I I told them to keep a list. It's a pitv th< I s?i many b.-rry forks. I wonder v. this for. Not a single piano lamp, though kii.-w I wanted on... Eighty? Fea eighty-t. Might as well get the job off my ! though the people don't think a bride Ish Jack wouid hurry and eme bOBSe.*4 And then si ? the Ink and the cards and tin and unwinds fa . '.ilr>> graphy Into bright, sparkling IdOOS like irt to mention the ?r which She grateful, for she fears she has gotten th.?m mixed up end I 1 take no chances. Out go the cards and she Is Bed? thai is, If Jack comes home early, while we are very, very 1 THR IDLE REPORTER. In his new book Mark Twain has the following tribute to ? I ad? mire him. I frankly conl ' when bis time comes, I shall buy a piece of the rope for a keepsake." The San Fia ?ironlcle is au? thority for the statt ?rient that there was live glean: In the e>e of a cer? tain Mr. Lease, of K n h? waa Informed that an Illinois man had lold his wife for IIP._ Beware of Ointments for Catarrh Thut Contain Mer.'ury, as mercury will suit .ho Mass of smell, ana -e lh?? whole ayv -o?' ''? -brougn the mucous surfaces. Such articles snould e.'cnptions from reputable ph>siclans, as the a?m ag?tthey will do u tenfold t" the gtxid you can possibly derive from them Hairs rh Cure, manufactured by F. J 1 ney A Co., Toledo, ? cury, and Is taken Internally, tiding ui jectly upon the hlod and m fcris of the system, lu buviug Hall's watartii Cur?? be sure you gut the g< Ine. It Is taken Internally, and made m by i-\ J Cheney & Co. Test*? m'onlal* free. Sold by druggists. Price. 7.'.c. per bottle. Halls Family Pills are the test. GRT THE ('EXlIHiB ARTICLE I Walter Baker & Co.'s Breakfast COCOA Pure, Del?t?ous, Nutritious. Costs leas than ONE CENT a cnp. Be aure that the package bear, our Trade-Mark. Walter Baker & Co. Limited, (F-ubinhtd 1760.) Dorcheftter, ?Has?. Trade-Mail of promise, and ?tuM.MvB? ?MP?. Mxi^*-^*-r-?|-/- ? m-f^mr m m. .a- mataW MJ III III ! Ill ' ?-*??*-? .^am Th<? -ilog the ! B.CCO damage? for Injurlea rer?iveu' *" the station In j-hiiadt-lphUi in UN.