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SE-4XSKIX A'VD CHIXCHILLA. Thß f Ksliini Toqoli To HieSmap Shirr WaisL Mi Instead of fhe neat and Inconspicuous 111 le band/ ~Xbat : ronce finished the neck of a odlcef fashion- now demand? wonderfully onstructed stocks. The sa me elaborate landiwork that makes the gown so beauti ul shows Its' -Infliipoce upon this important letall, and each collar and stock is designed peclally to Milt some one style of frock ov birtwaist - Best iof r all. the new collar? .t. tlii-: thront perfectly." .'whether they are .nlf high or. the extreme widtli, designated he "Sarah Bofnhaidt." : Xace. moussellno. oriontal and fine French mbroidery figure promiiient'y on the latest •csigns. and it is itho exception tosceastock aade without; a, tab in fronti" Sometimes here are three of these pointed effects, ar nnged to overinp and caught at the throat rith a Jewe'.od buckle. A narrow, turnover d an irregular shape makes a suitable finish or the upper edge; and this style may be iriod In, a 'thousand ways. : Nearly." all -collars of . the fancy type are aade 1 upon a thin foundation, usually mous eline stlffenod occasionally with silk cov red bone. One of the rewnt oriental efl'ects shows v Jalri •collar -havlngja det-p, turnover of Chi *se or Japanese embroidery.. This bit of indwork falls !n a point in front. Ol tiie «srigh:i the )i:i'tt.est is .oneVdlsp.ayius":'"/' raceful grouping of peacocl: feathers In the Alural b'.ues and greens. Tbe stock Is made o go' once ai'ourid the neck and 'at> the cck the broad sl.k cuds aie tied In a pretty cwj //.;/"...' '" -••..• ' '•/ :: r \- > A butterfly stock Is an attractive noveHy "% Bllk or embroidered Swiss. The band dis lays little ojuamentatlon-^somctlmes' fine ricks orAitltchingV In ~\ a 'contrasting color— nd at .the 'front' ls^fastiened a* butterfly tiaped piece of inateiial. The head arid telers of the butterfly.' reach up on the col ir proper «i'id 'iuip'ait a realistic note. '? ; ' . . Sets of. collar nnd cuffs /are' popular with •omen who "like neat /arid itilw effects, lough' the ; new accessories' by : no means resemble the old-fashioned stiff liri^a^els"^ A few of ' the 'sets come in sllkJandJiEonie-ll lace ones are ; seen, -but the ,prettles,£- J c fa're^ 1 those fashioned from fine ecru batiste,T«?m^ -broldercd or appliqued with'laceln the'sanie tint: The collars are perfectly plainjroupd,. ones, fastening at the back with three or lour tiny ; pearl buttons ' and as many.lopps'. I.1 '. This Is a. chicarraugomt-nt , for- a .woman; whose face is young enough to find'/iPbe/^ coming. The; cuffs are- made in ithev* spinet; style, and may be the same . widtliVas^tliii : collar or narrower. -~ " : '' ' \L, "'■- <^ A pretty set in. pale fresh hiitJprioolofod.i batiste displayed a border, of embroide"ry l worki-d in open scallops, "in |iii«.*»o, ajuces; was-ari applique ot coarse meshed lace, put on so as to give the effect of forming a back ground for the embroidery.' - : . ■;•.-.- Irish point,, curtain, filet and all. of, tlie, crochet* laces are made Into stunning;tyet"q simple collars. The lace is cut in somV6il«l ' straight shape, with a curved arid^ Or^yi upper edge, which Is then bound l wdh^a bias fold of -silk." This may be fuFther'.fn- 3 hanced by French knots or cut steel for pearl ■* beads..' ■ ' :'•';:■:■'-:■:' I ' >. ; ■ ';■ ■ ~\'. r ■ On washable stocks, in place. of the lace;" ane embroidery is used.. The edge may be irimmeil with a tiuy.roll of the Vbue batiste . caught to the foundation by : means of. fag gothig. .>,/,.' ,TADICv~ The. novice will find difficulty, ln shaplnjri a collar so asto give it the proper length in?, front without a' break. ,; In many" cake^^h^ turnover l itself \is elongated 'to f ormjde> ; |>' < points ( which round out at. the tlp.Y.^l'hese^ must lie* perfectly ; flat. and smooth,* oxhe.rt^ wise the; trim effect is lost. ■ :: ;-£Pt'Q/;<vyj /All kinds of "embroideries are employc^-Vri' these, important "dress features. andut£.av stock is ' intended: for a certain bodice," IjlVi motif of * the lat ; er is ; adhered ■to as closely^ as possible. It is the endeavor to mak"e2th>; collar seem" a . part of the dress wa!sl?fiji? stead? of.;- being an addition, .and foiy tidsV reason It hias taken to itself frills and fanSelest v> ~"- ■-- - - ■ ■ i ..... . .. - T .-.-- - .._... ■■■ — — - . ~ , It needed only the first wintry, weather to prove that this is to be the fur season that was : prophesied; for, the woman who Is bow to be seen not' wearing -furs is distinctly unfashionable. Stich'a variety of furs as is to be 6een: All the known and, many, un known animals have yielded -up. their lives to the present : craze, whlc'a we ire solemnly assured will exterminate soon every fur bearlnganimal, if /care Is not exercised.; It: would be a clevcrVnaturanst;who could de termine at one glance the species of many oftberiewffashlouabie'skin's wUlchare tbe; fad of the ? moment. / The gray- squirrel . ls so '{fashionable ; tha t : It Is /imitated. ■ Jloic skln has i also "proved universally. popular/ but as yet has only been made up in the smartest of blouses, short coats and hats,": so that it will / be /fashionable i for at least > two sea sons,; we are .'solemnly, informed.:; "Ttus-slan : and --Hudson Bay "sables 'are .'positively/ so commonly /worn. In .fspite of the enormous ■price's '"obtained : for ; the ; former.- tha t^ they. ;,,■,--.■: .-. ■: •, ■ — — - -- ■ -■ - - •• .-• ; GRAY SQUIRREL JACKET. are ;a:most too fashionable and run the risk of soon being pronounced common. -. Light thousand- dollars- for a cape would-seem ai iinost a prohibitory" price,' audyet there are^ many capes worn ■ today, which'have cost that amount and more. At $1,500 a'nniff it might not-be supposed it wou'.d be possib c or necessary, to Include mere than a coup'.e in a' winter's outfit,. but the. same one would never do to wear wlth.differeut gowns, and so mllady.bo.s sable, ermine, lynx, fox, squir rel, Persian lamb and any number of fanci ful ones as .well," made of velvet, chiffon and . lace, wit'J ' : just" a; bit of fur added s to give a hint that the article is intended for warmth: as well as for show. _ " .• ' -. -■",: ■'■:,• -:.■'. : /.There are several different shapes in the new muffs— the^ long.' oblong -shape,- the square and- the found, small or large;there isno one fixed size; some are exaggeratedly large, ethers;. equally ■ small; some so cum- to keep pact" with ; the iucieasing elaborate ness of frocks. : . ■■...- . ;./.:.: . -; ;,For the 'tailor girl who hne boen forcrdto progress 1 in /the way ; of fusslness there is a' stock that is Fomewhat .'stiff. ''dea'dedly. '-tr.in and not altogether plain. .Pique forms the foundation, and the close-niting collnr comes up weil, about the throat.^fas;ens at the left of the front with 6mall white; buitons'and loops, whiledirectly in the center it is curved become" as to really-be, tiresome tocarTf. {others abf urdVy,Wini:_tei;: It ipn^lpnper f ash^ ionable: to -ha ye a muff-made stiff and l.beavy.v with yards and yards of cotton batting, but; It : :'mustibe^made;':wnrin'' r 'and'comfortaW a soft interlining, and in some of .the smart-, e^t muffs is "a liningof. white fur.-moßtde-. lic!ously ; warm;.wlthout being bulky: , . n ; Ermlrie is certainly; more; fashionable than^ last; seas^nV "arid "yet. it; never/is a /popular furjiri- Hself,vand^requires; to/ be combined; witb'ot her : furs to be effective.,"-The,fad*o'_ - : ,the': moment \ Is/ toTuse; It with gray squirrel, but the: combination ;is,not very smart/ and is Vaptvto^be un^eco^irig:; AVith ;the finest baby lamb; coats." "erm'fnejn t'he:cqllar,/ cuffs and revers is smart -and :/ef-: fectiviv arid in: some way/the glossy black of .'""the.'-jj'aliy lamb .'makes : the .ermine :. less unbecominsi' •Nothing much /handsomer or _. more costly, than >a . longerm !ne cloak could well-be, devised ; ' and yet, strange I to'say, a c'.oih ':■■ cloak 'lined '.'.with i e: mine: is ' more ef far/more bccom'.ng. v ßands/of ermine on black velvet coats look well, r and wi;h lace between the fur and the face it is a becoming combination: but- the srnartcst black velvet -coat ever turned our.'cari. be made hideously Ineffective. and unbecoming when trlmmu'd with ermine 'puti n close to the face. , " . - ; ; - s •'.-:.. . ; /Long, flat stoles are- very smart, but not so new as the po:nted'.'hou!dor capes' with long stole, ends in "front.". These are turned put In all kinds of- fur— chinchilla, squirrel. sa.ble, lynx, fox, bear .and the new : dyed skins that have so many new; names, and which .for one or jw seasons are , : really very effective/ This fashion of the pointed shoulder cape ..with'. the long, flat ends. in fiont-is a most: practical one, for- the gar ment is almost as-warm as a fur; coat,. and can much: easier bc'Slipped' off In a warm room. -Any coat worn.underneath is almost down to/make a. modish point.. Stitching makes'a neal finish for both edges, and there arej four wide : up-and-down slashes in the outer -section. The ; first two comejust be yond the center iv front, and the others have .the: same, relative. position at, the back. .A fine * -linen ■. tape, b nils' the ledges' of . ihese slashes."; and through-, them there is; run a soft,silk'four r iv : baud tiethat-is cnushed In folds, .'• is fastened in ,-: the "regulations-knot entirely hidden^ so^hatitbe wearer liasith^i appearance of being clad In fur. especlallj • when she carries a large muff to match, and • ■wearslaiso: fur. cuffs i arid/ onejof: the '; smart v fur :hats':to: correspond: 'These sets of f«rri need not f be • costly - in ' order; to; oe effectly» ., arid becoming, /but;;-, of course,'"- are /more? bea\jtiful,- ; as/i the and niore.exv pensive--' skins - are used; In sablen either, ;juissian ''■; or.^Hudson '.5 Bay,""; Buchl an , • i>; superb^ and/wouM : ma'ke the^plainest womai; ; In the universe look/well gowned. -.. - -..-, : ■:v Entire 'costumes: of ;/fur/haye'/never yet - ; received { the unqualified f-;a.pproyal ,of : well ] go%vned ; women. Every/ season tncre ,; are model gowns to be seen which in themselves are; most exquisite, but" somehow they never ■ seem -so -smart as /they ; should ) for the price ■ asked/ Persian lambfand sealskin made,in_ L sKirt rand =■ coat Is certainly a most beautiful > : costuineV-but :it :"is;orily ■appro?riate ; for " skating" or - some outdoor -exercise, and; in ! the /height; of the' winter season i -ou tnof-dbor \ 'spdrts are not fashionable^ The long princess ' coats are really' smarter than the coats and skirts rcade^ to match, and are cut on the lines ;of ; either the/loose box coats or the haif-fittinglong cloth coats, double-breasted and with revers and coliar of some "contrast- \ ing fur, the collar so cut It imayj.be. turned up^ or worn - turned ' down", and . for, the.mo ment fashion, decrees ''the latter to be tht correct style.' . - ~ '■:'. / > ' : Short 'fancy/bioTises of -fur have this sea-;. son apparently been designed with .the ob ject of concealing tlfe lines of the figure and adding as miich/bulkiness as possible; .the ■ /long-haired furs being in; great demand for : that : most chunky" of all .coats.-the belted blouse,; a double-breasted", blouse of squirrel fur, -trimmed -., with. bands ;' of ierriiine around. the collar, cuffs and down trie front of the. coat, .being, about th'e";best device possible for. making a s thim'woman look like a fat 'one, . and yet: by some^sirarige /anomaly the :fitout Women- are; most' often to be seen ; garbed In these blouses. ' . The . most ; satisfactory style of / fur/coat is.; the medium-length one,' of ; sealskin or Persian lamb, ; caade quite plain, , the only trimming fancy rhinestone or 6teel buttons;/ the' sleeves medium size,' with' some fulness, below the elbow, gathered Into a. band. at the .wrist, or . the sleeve finished- with a flare, revers andjcollnr of medium size, ant: the whole garment noticeable for its good cut andfit and 'the beauty of the fur. The revers not 'being faced with any "contrast- Ing fur,/ it is possible to wear any furs with the coat, -and not -be confined to just tbt one, as must needs be: when' collar 'and re vers are "faced with chinchilla or sable. "It; fact, this : style may be taken as a standa rd one. season after season, for theonly. altera tions necessary; will' be in .the'- width of th< skirts;-.the size of , the collar 'and the shape of tho sleeves, whereas the. more' fanciful designs, require- to. be changed with every changoVof, fashion.; as they look; old-fash' direetJy in- front and. then has both- flowing . ends drawn' through 'a', fine slit, -which'; i> horizontal and extends across the front point . The; ends/of .the, scarf ; also are pointed and stitched several times around the -. edgV.' ■Black • peau ; de. soie:is always a good /com binatiori with white/pique.' and for Variety 'there are -sorno ■ gorgeous- green andjilue plaid effects. '■■'■"- -/••/' - ', ' " -Turnovers serve two.purposes— they keep the underneath collar fresh and -are orna mental without; be-ng -.(oo^ elaborate. Thr latest models' are ■mnde. of heavy linen? woven in stn'prs. cords or basket effects, and ifhey .run straight,. arouad; about an Inch.in depth. ;It is a fad^.to have them -embroidered in -colors.' not on ;he. edge— for scallops- have gone out entirely— but in groups/of three'de signs, one. in' the, front and the other two towa:d- the r. back. There^ are" curious Ch inese. letters : , worked' in green and-black^silk upon :pure ■white 'mercerized oxford, -tiny clusters: of grapes; in twhite 'bordered Vwlth black, /large disks in; blue,, green or wbUeT etched Cwlth black riand-jall. sorts of-quairit arid ■; pretty, pattern's?. ' Mon ograms, crests or odd ciphers furnlzh'motifs for some,6f these styles of^neck'weaf.;' v. ; ; v v;-;- ; _• ; : . -;/,-, Mjn^rclis Loo? Liyai ~- Commenting; on .the 'fact, thatitheiQuperi ■of theiEeigiaiis died, in -her, six!. V- : *! sixth' year,^ a; foreign statlstJcian'polbts out /that; thpniiing'.inoEarchs of today hive lived - ;tb;a"m!:ch-greatcr age;than theirJimmedraVe « predecpssors:'-. '■■■•■ ■■ ■ . ■ .. .-• i*. • In I SIS, he says, .there, were. 51 European sovereigns. .of • whom only. 11 . had :passrd' ; their; sist ie. h\rear/ t and^of ■ these la tier oniy qnD;Vwas-va'- v 'sept«RgVn"arlanl ; sT : "At**pr'psVntVj jthough^t he; number of-soyereig-Es has dimin-: Ished,! since from 51 it Is reducrd to 40. the SnumberTqf '^sovereigns who are CO years aia'd o\er has almost triplfd. 'In 1000 there were 2S ruling raonnrchs who were moie than CO'yiars old. and of that mfmhprji? tt -"■ ' ppptuagpnarlans, 5 had i passed T through "* more i than-" SO rkifmnierif and -t fl^thejPopeftwasia.tieaageaarlan. \ .' • ■ - ■ • ■ t --■.■*'■- In spite-, therefore, says the statistician, of ru'frs arc required 'tofen^ pouiitl|v^^ a better chance of living to old age than |their, subjects. can cc« a.notb«r| I perßori'i'eyes'Jatia distance 'of 80 yard9?|^§ BABY LAJfB COAT WITH :' saCIKREL^AXpS ATfb^TEEI^ BtrTTOSSI loned.\ _ /'. ' , ' ..* ■-" .-.:. Among, the new muffs 'there is, "one prac tical; khape-^oblong— much '"• smaller;' at -the top arid quite tiat, anu with ;a. : poeket at trie back, large enough to allow' of carrying pocketbook and handkerchief, but there be ing no thick, heavy lining, -the. addition of the Docket.-even with its contents, does uot materially iiiter'ero with i/the fashionable tlat appearance that the muffj of this^win ter must heeds possess. Another Innovatiou Is that even the inespenslve ? muffs should have ? light ■■ linings, /this Ito'i prevent ithe at soon .soiling ■. the * white ,. gloves i required t« be worn with every smart -costume, c. Far hats and fur-trimmed "hats are co* eideredf very r : smart,- as ; are i also, the ; whlta lace and tulle;hats; trimmed .with fur. All kinds of fur are possible,, but the more ex pensive varieties, *,wtth . the /epeceptioa of the squirrel and.black fox, or what Is, called black-fox; are infinitely the.more becoming— a" hard fact 'to" be faced when thepresent prices asked for fur have to be considered. First Nan's Coiffure. .Very .few persons, eayi a ; French [ paper, know the. 'origin of the .headdress 'Vhich ie many nans wear,* arid. which hides so much, of their faces. -: It was" formerly. the custom for- convents".to_ send'- riuus /to- the various cities and towns for the.purppse of cbllectins alms, and as | a/Tuf^Vwo nuns, one old aad the other youngs went to each place. They wore small caps; and were popularly known as' "Swallows of -Lent." : -. ": r On a certain Ash Wednesday two of them succeeded ml obtaining .admission to the King's palace in Paris, -and though the monarch and his ; courtiers were at dinner, they did not hesitate to v solicit -theai for alms; ' One of the nuns was very pretty, and the - young " noble's .who were, feasting cast such bold glances at her that, she blushed with shame, : .wnereupon the. King rose. from 'Llie -table,"- and,: taking^his ..; napkin, folded i» ta two arid placed It - on : her head . in such a manner that it concealtd^her blushes.- Ever since that:day,-it Is.satd.thlskind or head dress has: been worn by. nuns. .:: .r -.