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Pompons Will Bedeck Milady's First Hat of Spring. E" "I VBN -wlth snow on tho ground nnd velvet, fciither-trlnimcd i hnta upon thelr heads, many n rfflff8* falr in.-tlil and matron him her "flrst" hat rendy for brlght sprlng dnys. For weeks beautlful straw hata havo beon temptlngly expos?d to vlew.and tho wjso.mnlilen hns mado her cholco, and daliy tnkes .t pcop nt lior trensure ns it is tucked awny 'm!d tlssuo paper ln n. blg bonnel box. Tho "flrst" hat.lB ever n nlinplo nnd a plnln ono, Its mlsslon ls that of a go bctwecn. 11 ls donnctl ln tlio days bo t foro tho pnyly dcckwl ones nre consld ercd corroot, nnd yot when lt ls too lato to wear a heavy velvet ono. The flrst hat is a streot ono, puro and sitnple, nnd It ls to bo worn with sevoro tailored of blnck Is pcrlly stuck up at tho left slde, and ls held In placo by a blg Jot nrnnment. In navy bluo and whllo comes a prctty wnlking hnt. Agalnst tho fnco tho straw Is whlto, so that It surely mny bo bocomlng, whllo tho crown Is of tlio rlnrlcer color, A couple of large bstrlch fcathor pompons nro sllghtly to gownn, for mieli cventa ns shop plng, wnlking and Informal oc* cnslons. In Tttscan straw a pretty trl corn lint ln mndo. Its almpllcty Ib ns oxriulslte ns Ita slraw Is flno. lt Is oi a llght ycllow, nnd dlstlnctlon Is glven tho color by the Black velvet thnt bands tho odgo of tho rim. A stlft nlgrotto Iho left of tho hat, Theso follow tho two colorn of tlio straw of whlch the hat Is composed. . About Iho crown of tho hat Is a hand of bluo volvet, nnd upon thls whlto laco grapos aro nppll'iuod. In penrl grny straw Ib q round hat with a rolling rlm. Thls hat Ir worn sllghtly off from tho fnce, Tne crown I* n. llttlo hlRhcr than thnt nf the other onon, and n.l>otit It Is a bnml of clnrk gray velvet. The rolllng rlm Is bound with velvet, In the snino tone. and tlio hat Ib untrlmmed wlth tho cxccptlon of n. blg pompon of llght grny fenthera In inugh-and-rcndy strnw of binM- nr.#. whlto ls a protty hnt. -KHhnpo Ih that fiivoretl hy our Bngllsh couE/nnd ia worn an they wear so mnny hata a iitf ? nat ih tnnt or tho dark straw nmi ?v.? crown I. trlmmed with b&nd^hUo In fnnoy brnlda ls a prntty black hnt R falls weli off from tho fL L thni tho halr Is expoBod to vlew. ThliM,?? trlmrncd with dnhlln-colorod velvet and tho rlm Is decorated with ponrl orn-unonts Ivo tcncsof ?iay tndpompons. Blue and white straw wlth pompons, Tuscany straw of yellow. Fancy blnck straw nnd dal'o velvet- Rough-nnd-ready of blnck and white. III III J III By IVJAY IVIAIMTOIM. February, wlth its alternatlons between wlntry storms and Spring-Uke days, has* como and, wlth it, the demand for certaln frcsh gowns and for that refurblshlng of the old ones which means renewcd stylo nnd prolonged llfe. "While Jnck Frost has ret many weeks of sway nnd whllo wo ahall shlvcr through many hours beforo any permancnt slgns of Sprlng appear, thls last month of the calendar wlnter neans certaln indlcatlons of warmth to some, glvos octrain evldenccs of renewed lifo that auggest now tollets to tho fem Inlnc mlnd as surely as they mcan tho flrst wakenlng of the sleeplng trces, tho flret cftort of green thlngs to come forth tnd brlghtcn' the earth. As a result de ligners and dressmnkers aro busy, buy irs are crosslng the sea for fresh Ideas tnd all the world of dress nnd fashlon Ihows marked actlvlty and Interest. (Vhile only those of us who can go South, tnd meet the Spring on her way (Ind tho leed for new garments a presslng one, the deslre for brlght and prctty thlngs ls inrt of the season and mnkes Itsolf man Ifest ln many ways. Actual mild weather :s stlll ln the dlstanco, de.splte the decep tlvo quallty of tho sunshlno found on cer? taln February days. It wlll be many weeks bofore any radical change wlll bo elther desirable or safe, but what wo know as between seasons gowns are al? ready ln demand p.nd aro looked to to -btldge over tho lnterval between mld winter and real Spring. As I have statcd In prevluos letters. pklrts of cloth and tho llke for street wear retaln the goneral tendency toward nnug flt about the hips and free flare be? low tho knees, notwlthstatiding the many statements to tho contrary. Undoubtedly we shall have many tucked, plalted and shlrred skirts, and those of thln materlals will be allowed to fall ln soft folds, but heavler stuffs wlll contlnue to bo so man lpulated as to retain thelr snug upper por tions ln whatever style they may bo cut. Consequontly flounccs of tho olrcular sort retaln thelr placo and aro seen ln many varlatlons. They aro made plaln, they are plalted nnd they are tucked. They extend round tho ontire skirt, they Joln plalted front gores and extend round sldes ond back, and they are shown ln combl natlon wlth full length fronts and narrow backs. Coats take several forms, but are ~, more general in blouse stylo than any "ither and are made both wlth and wlth liut tunlcs nnd basques, but must bo flat about tho nock. Many that are qulte sollarless are shown ln tho latest nodels and , I am lnclinerl to predlot Ihelr very* ,-goneral uso durlng the tvarm w'eatner. ln my Judgment they ?*ill take the place of the collarless Eton that waa so general two' sea 10ns ago and which fllled so satlsfactory * place. Flat collars of all sorts are, however, to be worn and many little tapes are shown on tho between seasons coats. A most charmlng and Jaunty niodel ls open a wee blt at tho throat ind is double breiusted. At the neck ls a strap, in Monte Carlo style, wlth two tlny, ovorlapplng clrcular capes attnehed, A most charmlng sult of brown ennvns la tnade with a blouse F/ton that Is flnely plalted and flnlshod wlth a cape that falls over the sleeves, The skirt shows a plalted panel at tho front, another. nar rowcr, at the back and a clrcular fiounco between that terminates under tho plalts. The trlmmlng Is bands of whlto cloth clged with brown soutache, anovelty thnt v.ill, I think, find extonded favor. All fancy braids aro ln vogue. Never havo I seon such varlety. They defy descrlptlon, but nro apparent at every turn. Sou? tache, too, is belng freely used and thls r.nmblnatlon with ,cloth bands ls pecu liarly effectlve. These tlrst suits show many ilounces that aTe plalted ln va rlous ways. An exceedlngly smart model is of myrtlo green canvas etamine and is trimmed with strnps ot the snme. The skirt is clrcular and lald Ir? a successlon of flat fan plaits that tapcr to nothing several lnches be low the walst.. Between theso plalts aro npplied straps that nre cut almost to polnts at their upper cdgcs nnd wlden as they approach tho lower cdge. Tho htouso ls lald ln, flat plalts an Inch In width and ls flnlshed ? with a shoulder rapc that ls extended to form a norrow appilcd box plalt at the nnck. Tho Blccvcs are a featuro and mark a notable tendency. In common with all those of the senson they aro phain at the shoulders and widen as they approach tho wrlsts. but they aro new ln cut. There are two sonms but lnstead of belng placed as they ordlnarily aro the two pleces of tho sleevo meet on top of and unaer tho arm, tho fold3 comlng at Inslde and outside. Tho Inner plece ls gnthered Into a nnrrow stmlght cuff, but the outcr falls free ln flowing style, whllo puffs of oream lace aro arranged benenth. Other styles show the same sleevo gathered to form a droop lns puff, nnd others ugaln hnnglng free without the lace, but the additlon of this last adds grcatly to tho effect. Bmbroldery as trlmmlng Is becomlng as general as its cost and dilficulty allow. One of the smartest of all the suits I havo Heen ls of nut brown canvas and lncludes a blouse with narrow revers of whlte sllk otnbroldercd in pastel silks, blue, white and touches of plnk. I told you of tha heauitlful 'shlrt wnMsts last week and slnco that tlme havo had cause to admlre them agaln nnd agnin. Many French waists, of the flner sort, are belng shown and needlework of the sort makes a notable feature. Lace also ls freely used nnd marked preference for the heavy lineu sorts ls shown. Some of tho smart? est waists are of linen canvas, fine yet cpen, and are trlmmed with antlque, Cluny or Moltcso lace. Thls last is pcculinrly beautlful and ls shown In sllk ns well as llnen, black as well ns in whito and marks the rcvlval of Spanlsh laces to which I referred lnst week. Tho waists aro, for tho most part, slmple in cut and unllned. Many close at tho back nnd beauty Is found ln tho llne work, the laces and trlmmlng. Sleoves aro unl formly snug at tho shoulders, full and large at tho wrlsts. TMany of the liand somest are opened at the back and Inset with wedgo or cone shaped pleces of laco ln the sleevcs above the cuffs. Theso lace pleces are offered for salo in varlous slzes and the hint of thelr usefulness ls worth bearing in mlnd. Last senson's sleevcs are correct above the clbnws but small below. Tho introductlon of those blts ot lnce means increased size, renewed style nnd beauty all ln one. Heavy llnen etamine. in whito and the pecullar shade tho materlal takes when not qulte hleached, Is much soon ln Im? ported wnlsts nnd Is excecillngly hnnd some. Thero secms to bo absolutcly no llmlt to tho nmount of work, and elabor ato drawn work and what the French call a Jour embroldery both nre seen ns well as tho ralsed work. A moro beautlful mcdel is of the crash wlth Insertlons of heavy linen Malteso lace and Is further beautlfled by lace Btltches whlch mako tho insertlon. Another shows a design nf a Jour. or openwork, ombroldery that c'.mpletely covers tho front. Flne tuck lngs, too, nre corablncd wlth heavy laco nml laccs ot two.sorts aro seen upon a slnglo bodlco, a notuble lnstance belng found In antlquo and reprcso lace used, tho former us wldo insertlon, the latter ns a narrow flnish nt each edge, Agaln the long shouldcrod effect Is to be noted ln many of the best models, loath ns I oni to admlt that such ls the fact. Bit by blt the shoulder llne hns been clongated untll it is to be fenred the futuro wlll sr.o sleeves nnd wnlsts so cut as to glvo no dlvldlng llne. As yet sleovo caps, con tlnuouH trlmmlngs and the llko havo con tentod tho powers thnt be, but thero nro to bo found suggestlons ln some of these waists that scent strongly of danger and remlnd ono of thoso old-timo wnlsts whoso slecves wero set In inches below tho shoulder Jolnt. Anyono who has trled wenrlng such knows thelr dlscomfort and how completely hamporlng they are. Nothlng could seem more entlrely op? posed to the modern desire for free move? ment than any such revlval and the thought is cncouraging; yet anyono who hns studled fashlons knows that women, the best and strongest, are weak where la mode Is concornod. Tho trlmmlng seen on theso new waists consists ot Insertlon nppllod over the shoulder seam and con? tlnued down the sleeve ln an unbroken llne, but, ns the Joinlng Is at the normal placo, lt does not bamper tho movement of the arm, As someono has shrewdly sald, tho Incomlng ot the gonulne long shoulders means utter inablllly to don a hat properly after the gown ls closed. "Whether wo shall see women wcarlng thelr hats wlthout Intermlssion as a re? sult, or whether they wlll have the courage to resent such infrlngcment re malns to be seen. Beneath these wlilte blouses are worn sllps of thln washablo sllk In whlto or color that are quite plaln and mado wlth pleln snug sleeves over whlch the full outer ones fall ln soft puffs. "Wlth the comlng of warm weather It Is posslble that those may be dlscarded nnd the wnlsts worn wlthout llnlngs, but they have a practlcal value well worth bearlng in mlnd. Contact wlth tho skln means soll, and repeated cleanslngs mean loss of beatity as well as cost. Theso thln sllps belng washable can be kept ln order wlth case and scrvo as perfect protec? tlon to the waist, besldes allowlng changes of color tliat mean added va rlety wlth trlfling additional cost. Materlals, both for between seasons and Summer wenr, grow moro varied and bciiutiful each week. Somo of the mitlls and musllns nre slmply poems of dalnty colorlng nnd show, exqulslte deslgns. There is a tendency toward bordered pat terns; and very charmlng many of them are, ospeclally when made up wlth shlrred or plaited skirts. 1 hear rumors of three Ilounce skirts also, and, indeed, have seon a few, but lot us hope tho tall. slender slsterhood alone wlll ndopt them. Those lucky folk can solze upon almost any new whlm and woar it wlth suecess, but let the short and the stout bewaro! Pongees nre to be a foaturo both of Sprlng and of Summer and mako most fasclna tlng and becomlng gowns. The latest nddltlons to the wcalth of varlety tho materlal affords Is trlmmlng bands woven ln blended colors and wlth the Chlnese alphabet or characters as design. Looked upon aif dccoratlon only It is a great auc cess. The colors are good, the flgurcs aro ciunlnt and attractive. but it mlght bo woll to Inqulro tho mcanihg bctore in dulging in too lavlsh use. else mny we all share tho trlals of the girl who had a glft of a unlque Chlneso bolt and woro it proudly nnd unthinklngly until ono day Its meanlng wns made clear. The mn terlal was hammered sllver and the dc nlgn was repeated several tlmes. Flcturo the wenrer's embarrnssmrnt when a courtly Chlneso ofhclal assurcd her it read "May you live long and bo the mother o" nlno sons." MAY MANTON. To Keey Jewetry And Siherware Clean To the fastldlous woman nothing is moro trylng than a dull-looklng rlng or pln, and sllverware that has lost Its flrst look of freshness. Just how to keep thom clean Is a dnlly puzzle. She hns probably tried without success, dropplng her rlngs into boxos of Joweler's sawdust. and her endeavors to keep one day for clennlng sllver nre roiulored null and vold by tho appoaraneo of the sllver Itsclf after It has been "cleancd" by a mald who leaves the white powder caked in each ino and curvc. And here, In tho very nick of tlme. one Mr. Lewis of Jowcl fame. comes to tho resoue and glves such conlldent ndvlco about the whole matter that sho wlll havo no oxcuse ln future for tarnlshcd jewclry or unpollshed silver-ware. To clean diamonds, he says; "Flrst, wash. in benzlne, then In castlle soap and wntcr to whlch a llttlo nmmonla has been added. Rlnso ln clean water, dlp in alco hol, and dry In jeweler's sawdust. Tlils formula holds for all jewclry eon tnlning procl'ous stones. other than penrls. The story Is that the benzlne removes greaso, soap nnd water removo benzlne, clear water removes soap suds nnd alco hol removes the water. If tho gold is tarnlshed, mako a solutlon ot one quart of water and ono ounco of cyanlde of potasslum and dlp the Jewclry ln It. Then dlp in clear water and pro ceed as before from thls polnt. (Cyanido of potasslum ls a deadly polson and should be thrown away Immediately after us ing.) Pearl Jewclry should be cleaned in tho same manner as dlamond, except that tho benzlne bath must bo omllted nnd all opcrations must bo performed very qulck ly. For cleanlng sllver the followlng mlx turo ls recommended: To two ounces of French (prepared) chalk add ono quarter of an ounce of ammonla, four ouncoa of alcohol and two ounces of water. Add to this when tho chalk and water nre thoroughly incorporated, ten gralns of cyanlde of potasslum dlssolved In water. Tho resulting mlxturo Bhould be of a creamy consistence. Placo tho mlx ture ln a bottle and shoke thoroughly be? fore uslng. To apply, pour a llttle Into a saucer, dlp ln tho end of a soft Jewclry brush and go over the artlcle. When lt hns been rostored to Its orlglnal whitoncss wash It thoroughly ln hot water and castlle soap, rlnse in scaldlng water, ancUbolish it with a plece of elonn canton flarSlel. How To Live Cheap.. Mrs. Marion Harland, Tho Tlmes-Dls? patch, Klohmond, Va. Madam,?Apropos of tho subject of Ail Ba's letter nnd the suhsequent crltlclsms to be found in The Times of Sunday, the 11th Instnnt, I suhmiit tho followlng for tho edlllciitloii of all Interested, Exponses of my famlly?seven chlldren, 'wlfe and myself? for tho week cndlng Saturday, Jan. 17. 1!K)3. \ These are facts, not fnncies and you hiny rely upon my Btntement tliat thls exhlhlt ls the true averngc actual cost of my famlly cxpensos week by week ln the departmonts mentloncd. On the followlng pngo the llst ls to l>e found. I keep ono cow, whose mllk, furnis-hes my table wlth buitter and mllk and tho mllk I sell pnys for her kecp Ing. Pleaso do not ptibllsh my name. but r-onclude with the non de pltimc, wo <Io lt. Yours, &c. ROBBlvr & BALDWIN. 4 pounds bacon .10c. 40c, 4 pounds sugar . 5c. 20c. 2 pounds lard . 9c. 18c. 30. lbs. flour (Piodmont), best ... S3c. 9(4 pounds cornmeal . 15c. 1 pkg. Postum Food ColTce. 22c. G pounds cabba.go . lc. (Jc. 1 pk, Irlsh potatoos . 20c. V4 gallon molnsses . i<)c. V/> fjuarts whlto bcans.10c 16c. ?l yeast cakc . 2c. J2.SS 1 pound pork. 12c. 3 boxes rrmtehes . 3c. 1V6 pounds bcof . 30c. 15c. 1 gallon kerosenc . 14c, 1-4 cord oak wood.$1.38 ??liweeks rent .jl.S J2.S0 $5.68 ?One-hair yeast cako makes one batch bread and the other makes a Jar of llnuld yeast that lasts the renmlnder of tho week. ??Houso of four rooms nnd wator on tho prernlses. Tho Poregolng Is actual outlay pald. Lynchburg, Va.. Jan. 20. . i Jfarvest Jfcme. "Whon you waken each morn, Flrst pray from the he^rt That you from your God May not wnlk apart. Conslrler tho dear ones Resldlng wlth you, And strive unto each Full duty to do. Yet forget not true charlty, Born in thn home, An broad in Its klndnoss, And loveth to roam. Then serve falthfully Tho noar nnd most dear, And serve, too, the stranger Who needs loving care. When tempted to whlsper Some III you have heard, Prny God scal your Hps, And speak not tho word. l*et love teach you sllenco When sllenco should bo; And teach you to speak When speech should be froe. Lovo knows all tho lessons The pen would faln teach; Lovo walks on tho helghts Tho heart would faln reacli. Then clasp hands wlth Love? Whatever betido; Prny God to go with you? And theso bo your gulde; Ayo, theso be your guido, (For theso are but one) Tlll the year thnt Is dawnlng Be evermoro done; Tlll the year that ls dawnlng, And tho years yot to come, Havo led you at last To the glad Harvest Homo. ?MARGARET A. RICHARD. Columbla, S. C. ??????.??.,,, ST. VALENTINE'S DAY LORE, BitB of tho Traditlons and Suporstltlons Clustcrlng Around the Day. St. Valentlne. from whom tho four teenth day of February dorlves its nnme, llvcd ln tho thlrd century. Ho was a bishop of Romo. and becauso of hls stendfnBtnesB to the fnlth ho was cast into prlson. where it Ib said, he cured. hls keeper's daughter of bllndncss. Valentlne dled the death of a martyr. He was flrst beatcn with clubs aad then bch'ended. All that rcmalns of hls mortal body ls presorved In the church of St. Praxedos, in Bome, where a gate, now tho Porta dcl Popolo, was formerly named from him, Porta Valentlnl. There seems to be nothing In the llfe of tho good saint to explnln Lho orlgin of tho practlce of eendlng nnonymous mls sives and lovo eplstles on tho dny deslg nated by hls name. Some say that thn custom came nbout ln thls way. Tho feaats of the Lupercalla. ln honor of Pan and Juno, wero hold In nnclent Romo chooslng of mates?a choico extended to both sexes?came into general use, an all persons so chosen were called valcn tlnes. In England, the idca of a lottcry of lovc prevalled from early tlmes. In the pagea of Engllsh poctry and progo are to bo found many alluslons to tlio custom. Slr Walter Scott utlllzed the Idoa In hls novels, Chooslng Valehtlnes was n sport prac tlccd In tho houses of tho gentry of Eng? land aa early as 1476. Poor Rlcharft's Almanac referrlng to thls prnctlco of holdlng lotterles, says: Young men and mald3 whfcro tovoi combtnes, Ench other draw tor valentlncs; They cllp and klss and dance and slng, And love llko unto every thlng. For young men thoy llko to bo doing, And freely spend thelr coln In woolng; And maiden3 love not to be tnrrylng, durlng the greater part of the month of February. Among tho ceremonles then obserVed, tho names of young wo? men were put Into a box, to bo drawn by tho men as chanco dlrected. Tho early Chrlstlan church substltuted salntB' names for thoso of women, and St. Val entlno's Day fttlling In the mlddle of tho month about tlie tlmo the featlvltlea of tho Lupercalla had commenced, tho new fastlval came gradually to be called hy thla name After a tlme. however, tho But make aH haste they can to marry ln<r; Yet oftentlmes they find this measure? Marry In haste, rcpent at lelsure. Chaucer, the father of Engllsh poctry, refers to St. Valentlne's. ? ln Shakespeare, also, aro alluslons to the day. In Bailey's, the flrst of the great Eng? llsh dlctlonarles (1721) we find: Valen? tlncs (In Engllsh). About thls time of the year?month *-of February?the Blrds choose thelr Mntes. and probably, thenct came tho custorn of tho young men a.ni maldon8 choosing valentines or speclallj lovlng frlends on that day. Tho bellef that the blrds .select theli matoa on St. Valentine's Day was com mon ln rural England. Once, tho flrst unmarried person of thi other ?ex ono chanced to meet In walk? lng abroad on tho mornlng of the four* teenth of February was one'B valcntlna Good morrow "tls St. Valentlno'e Day, All in the morn betlme And I .a mnld nt your wlndow, .*. | To bo your vnlentine, --??., ls Ophella's song. From whlch it would seem that li Shakespeare's tlme, tho custom of chal lenglng your vnlentine had already com mcnced. Tho challenge conslsted Mmplj ln saying. "Good morn, 'tls St. Valen. tlno'o Day." nnd he or she who sald II firat on meetlng a person of the oppo sitc sex recelved a present Tho custom of bestowlng St. Valen? tlno's glfts grew to be very extravagant Popys. the Indefntlgablo hlstorlan of th? roign of Charles II., speaks of the Duk? of York glvlng for a valentlno a. Jewel of 14,000. In France thn names of young peopt< of both sexes wore written ori paper a.vi deposltcd In propor rcceptacles. Draw IngB then took place, ln whlch each sei could securc a partner from tho other, It wns customary for the Bentlmentol bond to laBt for a year. Durlng thls time each stood to the other ln the re? latlon ot Cavaller and Lady of Beauty, tho knlght belng bouhd to tho honor^and defenco of hls falr one, for whloh shi T-epaJd hlm with smlles and sllk fa vorB. Tn an old English balad. tho lasslea aro dlrected to pray eross-legged to St? Valentlne for good luck. A klnd of dhinatlon was also practlsed by sutcepttblo maldcns on St. Valen? tine's Day Just as on tne eve of AllHal lows. AVe read ln an old work thla sprlghtly sally: "Last Friday wns Val? entine's Day, nnd the nlght before, I got flvo biy leaves and plnned four of them to tho four corners of my plllow. and tho flfth to tho mlddle; and then lf I dreamed of my sweetheart, Betty sald wo should bo married before the year was out. But to make lt more sure, I bolled an egg hard and took out th< yolk, and fllled lt wlth salt, and w.hoj* I went to bed ato lt, shcll and all. wlth? out speaklng or drlnklng after 1L We also wroto our lovers, names upon blts of paper, and rolled them up ln clay and put them lnto water; and the flrst that roBO ur> was to bo out vnl? entine, Would you thlnk lt? Mr- Bloa som was my man. I lay ab'ed. and shut my eyes all mornlng tlll ha came to our house, for I would not have seen anoth? er mon beforo hlm for all the world. The Hostess of To=Day; Her Ouests and Their Qowns. LINDA HILL LARNED. OR tho formal dinner or lunch eon, a round, equaro or oblong table, covcred with a thlck cot? ton flannel cloth or pod undor a fine llnen damask, without cresaso or wrlnklcs, and tho best you can afford, ls the flrst rcquislte. On raro occaslons thls cloth may bo of fialln damask or of handsomo laco over Bntln, but lf thls ls attemptod all of tho table nppointments must bo equally smnrL Whether thls cloth bo slmplo or aump tuous, lt must hang over at least a quar ter of a yard on every Blde. At the upper right hand ot tho plato, near the center. placo a goblct for wuter; then plnce the wlne glaBsea ln tlie ordor In whloh they are to bo used. beglnnlng noar the polnta of the knlves, reachlng to the goblet ln a seml-clrcle. lf mnny wlnes nru served, a double seml-clrcle may bo formt-d, beglnnlng with tho Bherry glass ana endlng with tho goblet. The nupktns should be largo uncT of flnu quallty, Tht-y should bo foldcd Irt' iron lng four tlrni-m; then when ready to ubo fold them onco with the hand, sllpplng be? tween tho folda, but ln slght, a dinner rcll, bread-Btlck or ploce uf hread cut two inches liing by one nnd n half thlck. . Flace the napkln at thn left of thn forkH, lf there ls spaco; otherwlse place thetn on the Bervico plute. The formal luncheon ls served like tlio frrmal dinner, with tho followlng excep* tlons: lf tho tablo ls or very handsoino wood, without Bcratch or hlomlsh, it may be left baro, uslng sinall dolllea undt'r iho jduW-H and dlshfcB. and a. center-plece. Tlils ls a raro opportunlty to dlspltty artlsilu cmbrolderles, but tho llne damask tjj)|e. clnth ls always in good taste at a lunch* (I'll, too. Koser,,,lc yaUt l-^ru Imtlatc bluuw. Loulalne sllk wal-t. Oray nun's v nB w ITH a number of pretty waists for changes?, the woman who has a sovere yet handsomo tai? lored gown ls ready for lunch SaHI eon partles. One Bklrt may bo made to do diity for soveral oc caelons, yot tho mald or matron looks dlfterently frocked, for at each appearance hor bodlco- ls of a different tone and of an entlrely new model. Vory pretty ls a rose-plnk walst of crepe do chlno, that ls elaborate In tho way in* whlch it ls mado. Tho yoko ls a maas of close. fine gauzing, and the hlgh collar ls formed of tho same handwork. Thls yoke Is flnlshed with a Greclan pnttern, done In nnrrow gold braid, and the same trlmmlng la upon the flowlng over-sleevea. Tho undor-slceves are gauzed. and upon tht* ovor ones aro dollcato appllquos of laco, In ocru batlsto la a lovely blouse, that hhs dalnty bubo blue Introduced as a sec? ond oolor. Tucka up and down, and also runnlng nround, trlm tho walst. About tho neck and shoulders ls a yoko of flno whlto laco, and bo transparent and open Is lt that the pretty blue euslly shows through. The slooves aro porpendloularly tucked to tho olbow. and from there to the wrlBt aro full. They are held snugly In placo nt the wrist ln a lace oiiff ovor the colored sllk, In tho new shndo of mulberry Ted a wnist of louslno sllk Ib mado. Whlte chlf? fon is used for the vest, whlch Is atrnpped with dollcato sllver braid, and Bllver but lona ornamont tho walst 'on elther slde of tho vest. Tlio under-aleoves are all 'of tho fluffy whlto, tho Bllvor again comlng Into play, and out on tho shoulders and on tho revera Ib whl|e Spanlsh laco. Of flno gray nuu's volllng ls a lovely gowr. for a girl of elghtoon. The ontlro frock Ih ln small box pleata. At tho walst these go lnto a bolt of soft grny sllk. The yoko and vest nre of plnk chlffon, whlch ls vellod with an open thrcad laco, and tha blg, fllll sleevcs aro of Uo chlffon,