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THE PERFECT FOREHEAD AN ATTR1BUTE IN BEAUTY The Up?to=Date Young Woman Knows HovVto Shape Her Forehead Just as Best Pleases Her by the Arrangement of Her Hair?The Russian Sys? tem of Curing Frowning?Another New WrinkletoObliterateWrinkles(That the Brow May be Kept Sinooth, Fair and Youthful. ^v & & BY KATHERINE MORTON. (Copyright, 1903. by T. C. HcCIurc.) HID forehead has been callod "The gato of the soul." Features nlter. Kyes, nose, _____ mouth mny change tholr aspect &____] frnm a ?thousand causes. Aoel ? dent mny mnr them, pnln dlB torl them; old hablts froquently glve thom aome pecuilarlty of form or expresslon. They aro liko tho hands on tho clock dlal; they move and chango wlth wear or extornal InfluencoB. But tho forehead ls'llko tho dlal ltfielf. It remalns nub etnntlnlly tho samo throughout life. Tho perfect forohead should bo smooth, clear, whlte and Bpaclous, and one-fourth tho length of tho head In helght. Tho brond, low brow i?. the most beautiful. Thla la tho Roman or classlc brow, aa rhown ln polntlng and sculptured marhlo. The fJrccks preferred tho hlgh and rather narrow brow; thls ls tbe shape uhlformly represented In Greel: sculp Th'o owner of a hlgh forehead ln pop ularly supposed to bc a person of mlgnty lntellect nnd a saint. whllo tho villaln of llfo or of tho drama ls always sup? posed to bo distlnguished by a low, bcct llng brow. And the.c notlons survlve and Jlourlsh nmong us, desplte the fact that the most brllllant people bave thelr full aharo Of low foreheads, Just ns thn lenst Intellcctuai often own angellc "arched browB." Whether hlgh or low, capaclty and Btrength of mlnd nro Indlcated lf the brow ls rounded nnd sllghtly convex. Promlnence In the reglon of tho eye brows lndlcatcs strength of the porcep tlvo or observing fncultles; promlnence of tho mlddln and uppcr part lndlcates Btrength of the reflcctlve or thlnklng fac? ultles. and promlnence of thc outer por tlons lndlcates strength of the Imaginatlve fncultles. If the forehead rlses slantingly. the person Is supposed to be sharp and dar lng; if lt ls full at the outer anglcs, tho owrier has plenty of Idcas. Whore it Is fullest ln the mlddle the person is shrewd and gunrded In her conduct. A knotty forehead shows pcrsevernnce, actlvlty of mlnd nnd body, and also harsh r.eKH and Inlolerance, A small dent In the forehead Just above and between the eyebrows shows inslnccrlty and lack of Judcment. Qulck, t'ncrgetlc nnd useful people usu allv havo short. narrow foreheads. A Btralght forehead, one that rlses from the eyebrows In a perpendlcular llne, Is a algn of lnflexlljlllty and tenaclty. As to heads ln the beauty market, tho Bmall one tnkes the prlze. The Amerlcan girl mufit reallze thls fact. for ahe has Bcmehow lost tho large head which she once had. To-day she has tho dellghtful little head of the Southern woman of French descent?that small. wcll-pol.ned head whlch ls so pretty that It Is ldeal. Nothlng adds so much to beauty as a well-shapcd head, nobly polsed llke that of a Psyche or a Galatea. If her head ls too large for beauty, tho girl of tbo present day ls clever enough to mako It Beern Rmaller by dressing her halr compactly and by smoothlng it at the sldes. Sho twlsts a little knot low at tho back of her head, or colls lt smoothly on top, and her hend seems small and well shaped. Whether nature lntended that lt Bhould be or not. The shape of her brow, too. she alters to make herself more lovely to look upon. Bhe shapes lt as best pleases her, mak? lng lt low or hlgh, or wide or narrow, or oval or square. Sho waxes tho halr to grow up or down, to lle ln rebelllous llttlo waves, or to go back smartly from a forehead that needs to be ralsed a llt? tlo. Rroad and low Is tho preferred pat? tern ln brows Just at present. Even wlth a pompadour thls shapo may be mannged by means of soft waves of halr partly covcrlng the brow. Any ono wlth too broad a brow should wear aa llttlo halr as posslble on the temples and dress lt hlgh. One wlth too low a brow should keep the halr off thc forehead In front nnd arrange a few wavy locks on the temples. A recedlng brow should ba, partly covered wlth fluffy halr. A malden wlth ?> brow both hlgh and broad may allow her tresses to rlp ple and wave and flow over It liko thoso of the herolne of a threo-volumo novel. To keep the forehead falr, smooth and you'.hful ls easy enough, lf a llttlo tlme and thought ls expended. Tho flrst rule ls, "don't scowl" when readlng, wrltlng or talklng sorlously. Thls causes two little perpendlcular lines to plough between tho eyes. It ls a hablt almost Imposslble to correct wdien once formed, as lt ls done unconsclously by n grroat many young peoplo. Even ln Bleep thelr brows wlll ,1)0 drawn together ln thls frown that ls tho nbettor of ago. A brlght and studloua young woman, Btlll ln her twentles, found herself the victlm of thls scowl, whlch hnd already mado two flne halrllnes ln her brow. Sho set herself to work to curo tho hablt by placlng her mlrror bofore her face when she road, wroto or studlod. But ns thls dlstracted her nttontion from her work, she flnnlly placod a whito ilbbon band tlghtly across her brow, t.vlng lt In a knot at the bnck of hor hend. At nlght sho filopt with tho band. Alter sovoral months tho llnes dlsap? peared, and sho Is qulte cured of the dlsflgurlng hablt. Whnt Is called tho Russian system for ?orr*ovlng wrlnkles ln the forehead Is worth trylng If llnes aro threatcnlng tho nppenrnnce of the brow. Tho Russlnn wny Is to blnd hot cloths wrung out of hot water upon tho brow and then to llo down. As tho cloths Bhould bo changed froquently, n mald or an acoommodntlng frlend ls n usetul adjunct to thls tollet rlto. The "patlent" Ib glvon a vlnalgrotto of Hootblng salts to qulot tho nerves: sho ls dlrocted to thlnk pleasnnt thoughts nnd to hold her face as qulet ns posslble,. so that tho llnes may be allowed to dlsanno.r under tho maglo Influer__a of tho hot appllcations. Thls la a treatment whlch must be taken when tlmo ls not presslng. Another new" wrlnklo for curlng wrin Irles ls tho "frowner." Thls Is deslgned primarlly to blot out or erase the wrln? kles caused by frownlng, hut lt mny be opplied wlth equn! success to crow's feetf or to the "lltorary wrlnklo"?tlie ono deep crease betweon the eyobrows. The frowner ennslsts slmnly of n snmll and rather stlff bit of whlte paper, wlth a coat of gum nrnblc on tho back. Thc blt of paper may bo round or squaro, nnd Just largo enough tn oover tbo llnos It ls deslgned to curu. Molsten tbe paper and pasto it on wherover it Is needed. The bits of paper may also be kopt on by means of narrow hands of rlbbon. Heavy wrltlng paper from whlch to fashlon theso frowners la nvallablo lo all. Beforo attemnllng to oblltorate llnes, the skin should bo whlloned. If neces ?ary, hy removlng tan and sunburn, A j lotlou Xor thla purpono la male of one ounce of cltrlo ncld nnd two ounces each of vlolct water and glycerlne. Answers to Correspondents. Ray WIIIInms.-Tho tablo for wlilch you ai-k, glvlng the relatlve helght and welght of a grown woman In normal health, Is na follows; Htature. Welght. 4 ft. 10 ln. DS lbs. 4 lt. 11 ln.102 jbs, 6 fl- . 10', lbs. 0 ft. 1 In. 110 lbs. B ft. 2 In. IH lbs. 6 lt. ."1 ln. 121 11)8. B ft. 4 In. 12- lbs. r> ft. f, ln. 185;lbs. D ft. 0 In. 1S9 lbs. G ft. 7 in. 14S lbs. 5 ft. 8 In. _r,_ lbs, Florenre N*. C?If thc faco Is unnatUral ly P'-ile, after bathlng It wlth rose wntor and glvlng It a brlsk, gentlo rubblng wlth a Turkish towel, apply a lotion made of 4 ounces of rose water, 3 ounces of glycerlno and 2 drams of liquid am monla. Rub It well into thc akih, and then wlpe lt off wlth a dry towol. A dnlly walk of two or three mlles will Improvn a pale or sallow comploxlon, and ln tlmo glvo rosy checks. Walk quickly, brcathn decply. Take a long breath, close your mouth, rotaln the breath aa long as pos? slble, and exhale slowly. Tour cheeks will flush wlth the cxortlon of "really ..--__. CHARMING MATINEE BLOUSE. White llberty wlth an over-Jacket In black lace, deflned wlth sllk ruchlng fash lons this charmlng Morrls blouse. The Jacket Is on the zouave order, wlth long\ end. tucked Into the belt and a loose over-sleeve. The tlght cuff Is llkewlse of the lace and ruchlng. A scarf of llberty Is knotted around the stock and the ends are flnlshed wlth little ball pendants In jet. and truly breathing," your head will be held erect, and your chest will expand. Nancy W.? Tho symbollcal language of a slngle roso is simpllclty; of a whlte rose, sllence; of a musk rose. caprlclous beauty; of a yellow rose, infldelity; of a plnk carnatlon, love; of a yellow carna tion, dlsdain. A rose and a marlgold slg nilles tho bltter-swcets and pleasant pains of love. Tho marlgold olono expresses grlef. Beatrlce C. G.?Once a week bathe the face with w.-irm milk at nlght lf you want a falr, smooth skin. Adding a llttlo oatmeal to tho milk ls a good plan, tho THE FASHIONABLE OSTRICH PLUME. The corrcct dress hat must have an oitrlch plume, and they aro varlously dlsposed to obtaln thc best effects, In tho New York Millinery hct on thc rlght the plume Is posed on' the under slde of thc brlm, falllng on the halr In the back. That on the left has the feather enclrcling the crown, plerclng the brlm and drooplng softly over the ear. Whllo tho Slmpson Crawford model In the center has a large bunch ot half n dozen tlps Jauntlly perched on the front of the hat. oll In the oatmea] bolng bencflclal to the complexlon. Klnso wlth clear wnter, and bofore wlplng rub on a llttlo glycerlne and rose water. A llttle touch or powder ls all very well If you thlnk It Improves your appearance, but after lines begln to appear on the face, powdor, lf used dally, ?only helps to accentualo them. Wlnltred N.?If you nro a sallow bru nette, for evening wear choose orango, vcilow and Indlan red; for day wear, crlmson, tan and golden brown. If you aro a genuine brunette, you can wear cream, deep blue. gray and claret. Avold all grcens, vlolets, mautves and green blues. Tho "pearl n-ccklace fad" ls the wcaring of ono or three Barro.que stones on a thln gold chaln. These are in pear shap-e with a calyx setting ln diamonds. Thomaslna.?The thlckenlng of the skin brought about by handling golf . ticks nnd tcnnls rackots can easily be rubbed down and away with pumJce stono. Af'.or tvards rub Into the palms bornted vase llne and put on gloves to keep lt frorn rubblng off. Any cream ls good to rub Into the hands. SOCIETY WOMAN LS HOHPITAI.S Jly tho Murquls do Castcllano, iOW,: OFTEN h_s lt not happened that 1 qulltid a young und beautiful creniure at nlght ln the mldst of a whlil of danclng and fcstlvitlcs and flve or slx hours later met her agaln in lliu s.reet buudied up in a cah ln a elm ple, unobtrusivo gown! Whlther was' she going? To tlio liosoital. It was not lo exptate a fault that she went (for she could not havo commltted any), but to perform u work of Chnstlan charlty, It was ent.'rely voluntarv on l.er part. No vovv or promlse obllged her In the least lo do so. It was simply a per? sonal undertnking, wlthout pay, wl.h out any other neward than the approval of her own conscience. It was not to goin tho estecm of the world, the act belng altogother hidden from tho publlc, for thoso who go to glvo thelr services ln the hospltals are caro ful not to give thelr names on enterlng. The patients themselves do not know the hand that cares them, Such phllan thiopy as thls ls a disc-reet phiinnthropy, the inost beautlful and unselllsh of all, und is, moreouer, conslderate for tho leellngs of the poor. Nor must it be mlstaken for the regrular organlzatlon of hospital servlco. Tbe lat ter ls not philanthropy; it Is a debt wh ch the State pays to society, a sort of con? stltutlonal debt which Is obligatory and whlch no oivilized natlon questions or avoids. Hence we also see ii esiabllshed everywhero with the Sisters of Charlty ln Catholic counu-ies, such as Italy and Spain, with speclal hospital nurses; us in M -gluiid, v 1 cre they are truh.ed In more t, ar 500 professlonal sclioolj, uith Protefitant d-.-aconcsses; as in Germany. end with llttle "Nipponossos" encouraged by the Princess Komatzu in Japan. The soclety woman who enters a hos? pital to icnd and conBDlc the suffering ls not fullilling any duty or satlsfying an obligation; she devotes horself volun tarlly to the poor and out of deference to tlie wants of her neighbor; and lt is precisely from thls polnt of vlew that her actlon is uncommon and beautlful. This so-.-t of charlty, I belleve, hiul lta birth in France. The numbor of charlt able wonts wheh depond u>_on It is in calculable. I am not speaklng of the Red Cross work, which is a- dlsplay of internatlonal patrlotlsm and wrlch has crossed seius and deserts, flourishing as well in Paris as in Genoya, Toklo, Port Arthur and New York. ' It is a work whose dlspensarios havo been long ago opened everywhero and ln whlch the la? dles of the hlghest soclety go to learn how to care for the wounded ln timo of war. I am speaklng of those Jnstitur.ons which havo no other object but tho rellef cf mlsery and ln which not patriot sra but a love of humanlty plays the leadlng rolo. Here Is an exampie of "hospital work," as it Is called. Tho fashlonable ladles who form part of it go to the hos pitals of the clty or State; they replaco no slck-nurse whose business It ls to hlnd up wounds or to admlnlstor drugs; thev go to tho sick-bed and Inoulro klnd? ly into tlio sufl-rings and needs of each patient, glide some money 6nto tthelr hands, take the name and the address of tholr little ch'ldren, who may tt abandoned in some garret, anil then promise to vlslt t.hem and help them. Another examplo is that of "The Work of Calvary," which Is still moro merlt orlous for those who join it, as It ls ox cluslvely for wldows, who alone are ad? mitted. These lndles actually becomo elck nursos for the time bolng; they attend to tho most unpleasant duties, bandage every wound and rerider every servlco with n devotlon that borders on herolsm. I mlght clte a thousand cases of these voluntary nssoclatlons for the rellef of human mlsery. . - _ But space is wnntlng; the examnlos I have given siiffice to oxclte our ndmira tlon for these young nnd churmlng im gels of comfort whom wo sometlmes imagine to bo nothlng but selfish crea tures nnd who conceal under an outwuid appoaranco mundarie frivollty the hearts of true herolnes. If. my dear Indies, you admlre them, it may be thnt you mlght bo temptod to follow in their footsteps; and thls Is tho grace thut I wlsh for you. .DQEtf TME HAlPHIG-tf FOR' ArhROAD.POREHEAD DANZIG WALKING SUIT. Heather-mlxcd tweed fashlons thls walklna suit, and a mlxed brald and sllk embroldered buttons serve for trlmmlng. Tbe coat Is sllohtly bloused over the belt, the ripple basques extencllng to the knee. The sklrt has slde plaits Inserted In each ?jore, wlth the braid applied In a polnted pattern. PLUME TRIMMED HAT WILL BE SEASON'S RAQE Long Plumes, Short Plumes, Even Little Tiny Tips, Are Used With Telllng Effects on the New Hats?The Tailor-Made Suit and the Matinee Blouse?The Collar? less Corsage and How to Wear It. Emlnently pleturesquo wlll tho fashlon able girl look In her now plumed hat, pnl no mattor ivuat tho length of tho plume, tho fact thnt tho plumo ls thero ls the thing. Of course, tho ostrlch feath er leads tho processlon. nnd tho thlrty slx Inch plumo la not consldered one little hlt joo long to drapo around the crown of tho now hats. And tncso same crowns may be juat ns hlgh or Just as low as tho we.iror pleases; thero Is no one helght -__ style to bo preferred to nnother. And ns for the plumes them? selves on tho snme style hat, ono may see a Rlnglo long plumo or two or threo medlum length onos. or a wnvlng bunch of tlps, or ngain one of the mado plumes of IrldoBcent fenthers. lt Is all a matter of Indlvldual cholce, and the smart gtrt may Just Btilt her own Btyle?or, what ls pcrhnps moro vltal, her purso?when mak? lng selectlon for/her new fall hat Even tho closc-flttlng turbans and toqucs aro not oxompt from the fashlon for feathers. A very smart toque waa no ticcd the othor day. which had the left slde turned up sharply and a long ostrlch fcathor placed flat agalnst It, the qulll pnklng forward toward tho front, and the Inturning tlp curllng softly into the curve of the wearer's neck. And rlght here It ls to be noted that In tho recent photogrnphs of Parlslan fashlon leadera? thoso clover actresses who Bot tho fash lons for tho grand monde?there la ft de? clded pcnchnnt for having tho coraage collarless and tho halr dressed low and conflned ln a fancy net, so that the long, drooplng plumes do not catch ln hair plnes or ruhle the colffure. It ls Just these llttlo dotatls whlch ldentify the girl who ndopts overy little passlng fad of fash? lon?that Is, of course, when lt ls sure to prove becomlng to her pcrsonallty. For the Plump Neck. Of course, thls collarless coraage ls not golng to be becomlng to everybody. The girl wlth a plump neck and rounded features may adopt it without fear of falluro 1 perhapg lt -was orlglnaly de _Igned to set off tho charma of ,aome such a one. The girl wlth slender neck and aqulllne features, however, must elther havo the bodlce cut out qulte round at tho throat, or olae she muat atick to the hlgh stock. No halfway measurcs wlll suit for her: she must reach tho extreme of the style, or elas lot lt sovorely alono. The stout girl wlth tho short. plump neck. or wlth almost no neck at all, would better have a little fall of lace?real lace, It sho can manngo to havo lt?o-irer tho band, nnd necklaces. velvet throat bandi and such were better eschowed, for they only add to the apparent slzo of the neck without Improving tho contour. The girl with tho long, slender neck, whlch hor friends wlll dcslsmato swan-llka, may plle cn all the necklaces ahe desirea to. but she must take care that, If hor features bo plump, tho necklaces flt close ly to tho throat, but If tha face be thln, then the neck dressing must bo loose and hang low. Theso are hlnta whlch* lf carefully followed wlll do much toward onabllng all snrts arid styles of glrls to adopt the latest Parlslan fada and fan? cies, and each ono when cleverly adapted as woll as adopted may be made to lm provo her appearance and add to her charms. In keeplng up wlth the styles thls autumn conslderablo latltudo rs allowed by Dame Fashlon for tho exercise of personnl prejudlce and fancies. Tho girl to whom the sovere tailor-made costume Ib becomlng can have hers as severe and plain as she wanta to; lh deed, tho plalner and more severe lt is the better will he tho style. But unlesa she la prepared to open her purse wide nnd pay a good prlco for the suit she had bettor not attempt lt, for tho severe tailor-mado demands a perfecti'on of cut and flt and flnlsh whlch can never bo attalned ln a cheap, roady-made suit. And to pay a good prlce for the bost tallor work Is an economy rather than an extravagance, for the severe style i'b ono so recently restored to favor that lt wlll bo likely to remaln ln good stand? ing for some time to como, and when well tallored, the garments hold thelr shape and smartness even to tho laat thread. Parisian Tailor-MadeCostumes. For the girl who cannot carry the severe styles wlth a falr measura of self-approva, Damo Fashlon has devlsed the Parlslan tailor-made costume. Thla, too, ls built upon tho best tallor linea. The same pcrfectlon of style and out and flt and flnlsh ls requlslte, but a, greater amount of trlmmlng?of fluflfl ness, so to speak?Is pormlttod ln thla style. Cunnlng llttlo capes ara posed across tho shoulders and ovor tho sloevo top. Tho sleeves themselvos are loose and baggy, nnd nny amount of decora tlon In tha way of tucks and bralds and buttons and embrolderles la lavlshed upon -them. And as for the cuffs, the deslgner mny gt've hls fnncy full swlng; nny concelt wlll bo good. Tho coal front may bo tlght and stralght, or sngglng a little over the belt, Just aa test suits the figure, and the short Eton, whlch has been so lon/. with us under one gulse or another, ls conaldered Just ns good style ln Parls to-day as lt ever was. lndeed, an appreclable percont ago of recent Importatlons show thi's fasclnntlng llttlo garment rather than tho long coat, and lt ls devoloped ln such a way, nnd wlth bo many of the nowest concelts apparent l'n lt at the flrst glanco, thnt there can be no posslble i.ouht of Its contlnued popularlty. But It is chlefly in the sklrts that the dlfference between tho severe and tho Parlaan tntlor-made wlll be most marked. Theso lnttor are trlmmed, very much trlmmed. The snmo bralds and button* nnd tucks nnd embrolderles whlch ap penrod on tho coat are repeated upon tha nklrt, nml whero tho se-voro style wlll havo tlie sklrt clearing the ground nnd flnlshed wlth a velveteen blndlng, the French tnllor-mado sklrt wlll have a long traln, aud ba dlstlnctly more dresaj* ln character. Drossy. FlutTy Blouses. And these Pnrlsan tnllor-mades glve dellghtful opportunlty for tho wearlnff ot dressy. fluffy little blouses, for wlth tbe French style the severe chevlot or linen shlrtwalst ls not at all In keeplng. A very charmlng one was Been the othe. dny nt a class luncheon glven at one of the excluslve New York hotela. It waa Just such n walst as almost any girl mlght fashlon for herself. provided, of course, that flhe hnd a perfectly boned nnd fltted llnlng for a foundatlon. For ln the now blouses the llnlng Is tho chief point. lu spite of tlio looseneas and rltiffl nos ot the outBlde they are intended to outllnu the figure, softly but not severely. T,i oome hack to the blouse, howetirer. tho ono reforrcd to waa of whlte llberty mous gelln, mounted on a llnlng of ahot yellow nnd whlte taffeta, thn moussellne belntf Sald on ln loose folds. The part, however, that gave catchet to th ewhole was 4 llttlo overjackot of fllmy black lace. edgod wlth a tlny black Bllk ruchtntr. This was on the stouave order, wlth a wide, loose nveraleeve comlng to the el? bow. nnd the fr?"?? cut In stola etyla ....,) luettail Into tha deeply cuiwad French belt. A polnted curt off th? huo held the fulne.g of tha baggy sleeve, and m.idq a pretty flnlBh. lt waa the acmo of ttiuw pllclty, but-ohl ?u ai.-?~. ...-__