The times dispatch. [volume], June 16, 1907, Image 44

About The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914

Image provided by: Library of Virginia; Richmond, VA

                
Sheer Lingerie Blouses Replace the Heavier
Shirts for Midsummer ? The Yoke a
Feature?Sleeves Are Longer?A
New Waist With Lace Gir
dle Worn Outside of Skirt
lf anynne lhinl*B for n moment thnt tbe
shlrtwnist or dressy blouse has lost lu
favor thls stimuiertliiio let them but con
Blder tho popularlty of tlie siunrt tailor
tnndo nnd the voguc of tlie jumper dress.
And what is the result? Simply thls, thu
Uressj* blouse, be it a lingerie confectlou
or a dnhity sllk nfl'ulr, lias never been bo
important a part ot womuu's coBtumiug
ns lt la now.
When the-se Jumper dresses flrst became
tlie fashion tlie very shnllow openlng nt
tlie neck seemed to necessltnte only a
hnlf body gtrlmpo vrlth sleeves, but wlth
the graduul reduction of the jumper io a
mere skeleton of Its former self tlie Uu
gcrle waist becamo Its Insdparuble ac
conipaniment Even wlien the Jumper ls
not of skeleton formatlon mnny wouieu
wear a lingerie waist Instead of n regu?
lar gulmpe, uverrlug tlmt they nre more
comfortable and nover pull up out of
plnee like thc gulmpe which comes Just
over the bustllne.
Those of us who ncceptcd tlmt severe
tnllnred shlrtwnlst of tlie early spring,
uattily trimmed wlth llttle plcatlnga and
stlllly cuffed and collnred, aud wore lt
wlth such uu ulr of smartuess in com?
pnny with chlc tallor-mades all Gprlng,
were only too glad to return to tlie "old
love," the lingerie blouse, when tbe un?
usually c-ool spring Jumped wlthout wnrn
lag iuto the beat of summer. Closely
woven linen and mndrns waists uud Htillly
siarclu-d jueckweyr nre all right lu mod?
erato v.-euUief, Uut ulnck nnd ulas, wben
tbe tliermometor begins to clluib their
Bmartikcss ls 110 substitute for the com?
fort uud coolness embodlcd lu the sheor
lingerie or sllk blouse.
Aud so lt Is witli tlie summer tnllor
made. Many American women huve
elected to follow the I'arlsienne ln tbe
mode of street dress thls season ln thnt
they do not dlscard the cont of tbelr
street suits In warm weather. Thla fiiucy
has led to tbe present popularlty of thc
coat suits of linon aud plque, whlle thu
whlte nnd light toncd mohalrs und serges
nre logioti in thls type of cosluuilng. Tho
Ideu ls, of conrso, to make tlio clothlng
ns light ns posslble. Here agnln tliu lin?
gerie' blouse is callod into requlsltlon, aud
wlth lt not lufrequeutly tbe stiff blgh
embroidered eollar nnd lingerie bow whleh
seems such u tlttlng acccssory to tho tai?
lored costume.
Hnnd embroidered blouscs whlle still
highly prlzed nnd hlghly priced, tno, for
thnt matter, nre not ns popular ns they
were laat season. For wliat reason nr
Little Frills of Fashioru
iteieel j-uiaili- Juvenlle undenveur ls iit
Uuctlng much attentlon und a greut deal
of trnde theso days ln the better Bhops,
Mothers who formerly hud all theso llttlo
glirments made ut lioino aro uttructed to
thls dulnty lingerie for their little peoplo
which bo closely loseiubk-s tholr own III
coDStrucUon and trlmuilng. A featuro of
lhe small glrl's pettlcoata 1? tho dust
rullie, acting us a proteetlon for tbe luco
or enibroidei-y trlmmlug, wlilch by reason
of the length of tho Bklrt very often
comes ln cootuct wltb the hose support
ers and ls torn. Older glrlB weurlng
longer dresses tlnui thoso whleh coine
Just below the turn of ihe bnco uro very
apt to destreiy tho petticoat trlmmlng
wltb tho heels of their shoes unlcss tho
dust ruffle ls used.
Kiiitiiii comblnatlon eurmenu'*' or
unlon sultu ure* belng ebown for mlsBes
uud chlldron us young aa three vears. Tbo
litll'j pantiilon. aro flulshed wlth u dulnty
laco frlll. Thoso gurmenttt ure not only
rur cooler uud vastly more eomfortablo
for tho small growlng bodies, but thoy
reyirescnt n Buvlug ot labor wbleb every
mother will l>o qnle k lo approclnto,
liiiKl'ilB Coat* liro u dulnty uddltion
to buby'H summer rvardrobo, Tbe.-y uro
mndo of tho flnobt lawn Insertod nnd
frilled wlth fluo Valenclonnes luces uud
liiiiid embroidered. lVhere a t~llk llnlng ls
liot used lu theso little guniientH, u little
Juoket of flne silk ilanuel may bu taeked
Un placo to fflvo lhe ueec??:ry warmtb
ubieui the i>)ii)iili|.-i'i.
Colored SocI.h for small boys aud
rensons women prefer those lncey con
fections lt were Indeed dlfflcult to tell,
but tho fuct ls very evldent thnt they do.
Shopkeepcrs tell tho sume story, and
further assert that tbe number of Prench
blouses sold bo far thls season ls com?
paratively small. Nearly all French
waists carry some of thls flne needlework,
and doubtless therein lles tlie cause of
limited snles.
A'ery dalnty chlffon satin and Bllk
blouses nre mude up with flne laces along
lingerie lines, and are desiguated as sllk
Ungcrle blouses.
A fenture of thls summor's blouses ls
the yoke. Sometimes lt ls cut separnte
on round, square or pointed lines, nnd
Jolued to the blouse with flne laco or em?
broldery lusertlons, but more often lt ls
the yoke effect attulued wlth lasertiona
und niedalllous or motlfs of laco or em?
broldery. And uot only ls lt a front yoko
but a back yoke ns well. Thls latter ls
shallow and ln no wlso conforms to the
Bhaplng of tbo front yoke.
Sleeves huve dropped from abovo the
turn of tho elbow to several inches below
and vastly more becomlng nnd docldely
moro practical ls thls new sevon clghths
length. Cuffs nre sevoral Inches deeper
thun lust season and qulte a llttle looser.
Somo are so constructed thnt the fulness
ls tucked Into cuft form und tbe lnser
tlotis whlcli run up aud dowa extend to
tbe lnce frilled edge.
The dark toued sepnrato blouse ls not
wlthout fuvor in tlm summer's fasbions.
There aro many times when such a waist
is better ndnpted to tho occaslon thun tho
whlte lingerie or sllk blouse. The new?
est of these uro of dark toned chlffon
mounted over white or some llght colored
sllk. Plain and fancy sllk Utilngs are
used. The checked uud atrlpod linings
tire very effeetlvo when draped wlth a
transparent chlffon or net. Strlped sllk
uud Btrlped chlflon uiuke one ->ery charm?
lng walBt ln wlilch a plaid offect is cre
uted by using the two materlnls on oppo
Mte ways of lho goods. For Instance, thn
Kllk Ls cut on tbe cross, whllo the outer
material, n satin strlped chiffon, is cut 011
the lengthwlse.
Blouses ot thla typo nre mado wllh n
Bheer lawn body llnlng llght llitlng and
carefully boned to the ilguro, er tho sllk
foundatlon ls Jolned to n l'eutberbone glr
dle whleh laces Buugly about tbo waist
und linlds thc blouso neatly ln place. TUe
slmplor the modo the better the style of
Biioli blouses, for tho nittteriuls uro such
thai any great umouiit ot oluboratlon
would dcBtroy tho artlstle Blmpllclty.
glrls ure worn inore than whito or black.
Vulo ptuks and blues aro tho fnvored
plulii eolors, asldo froin tho rich browns
whlch littlo boy and llttlo glrl wear wlth
BiindalH or Bllppora of glossoo golden
brown kld. But very pretty, nnd oxceed?
lngly new uud aiuart aro thoso novelty
checked und Strlped bQcUb ot whlto over
plalded or strlped wltb golden brown,
navy blue, bluck, red, palo plnk aml bluo.
These novelty eoclia may lie worn with
bluck, whlto or golden brown Bllppora,
but thoy should iu every case match the
little dross. I'lnln socks nro worn wllh
checked und plalded dresses, whllo fun
cles uro best wlth frocks of plalu niato
rluls.
Plno OliightilUN ln varl-ee.lorotl eliecks
unel plaids aro iniido unusually attractlvo
thls summer by liund ombrolelorlng aciil
lops Wlth n liuttofiholo utlteh urouml tho
e.lgo of tIie eutout noek of tho Jumper
dress, llkewlso tho nrmhule, or the .sleeve
eups uud bortlie, iiiuiiy ot tlio proltle-st
frocks followlng thla inoele. Itusslnn
blouse dresses ure freeiuenlly irliiiined ln
tliis maiiiiei' nlso.
l'lfiue. aro belng used oxtenslvoly ln
i hlldren's dresses of tne jumpor und ItiiS'
i-lun lilouso type. Kven tlie stnplo llneut
hnvo boen forced asldo hy tiioso fabrlcs,
whleh, ln tlie now crossbur weuvo, un
especially attractlvo, lMcjues ei? not wrln
Uio llko linen, uud thls ln ltself is qultt
enough lo glvo ihem tho.h- prusent pros
tlgo us miiiorluls for clllldrcn's, us wol
ns grown-up's tallored suits.
I -
( 41
? ?
.1. )
lu-,-:-f^MyJS /--1--r--p-;
<?$* *2&
Midsummer Millinery Modes* .'??* *&
UiniHiial Interest hns henn nwnlioned ln
HiIb year's nildsiiminor nillllnery by the
urrlval of somo Btrlklng noyoltlea from
forelgn Bhores. Mcmt of us havo loug
Btnco tired of the mushroom, wlilch, ln
thu eurly Benson thought bo fetchlng, hns
been bo overdouo us to mnko lt posltivcly
ofl'enslve in mnny InstnnceB, nnd wo nro
Just -ln thu mood to gVnsp iiuytlilng whlcli
emius ln iho way of a novelty.
The llrst dlvergoiico from tho mush
room wns tlm broad brlmmed French
sailor, wlilch mnde Its appearaiice ln the
oarly dnys of Muy, and thls, wlth its
vnrU.iiB trlininliig of ribbons, feiilhers,
wlngs, qnlllH nnd Ilowers, wns followed
by tho French shapo whlcli the I'nrlst
eiinos call the "Cloebe," nnd we Amerl
eaus deslgiiute ,,B Uio "jjell." Thls im
ineillately becainu tho accepted typo ol
ultra inldsuiiimer headwear. Tlio crowi
of this new modol |B somo four lnclii'H li
helght, aud ihe Bloplug brini froqiientl*,
iittnlns a width of seven Inches. lti
tiliimilngB vnry und nre 'moro. ur icui
voliuninouH. imi it (Ioch not, however. don
voy tho Impicssloii of over trliiimlng
probably lieciius-. of tbe fnct tliat then
Ib no liiternitugllng of ilowers nml feath
ers, though rlbbons nro uaed Wltb both
of thoso. Tho llower trlminod l'.oll Is
porhnps the prettler, though thoro are
seen somo very smnrt ostrlch trimmed
affairs, und hoth nro equally Brnnrt wltb
tiiljored stroet suits ur llngorlo frocks. As
yet uo ri'ully niliisuiniiior hut for wonr
exeltislvely wlth llngorlo frocks haa mndo
lts appeniuneo. Kvorythlng whlch hus
couip out hus boon Iniitiedlatoly appi'o
prlnted by ihe inllor-mado glrl, Wliq wciiih
her lluwerhcdecked aud plunio-ladeii
ehnpeiiu na nonchiiiitly witli hor novor.
est tullor-iuiido aa wltb hor llngoilu/gur
don frock.
Another new ahnpe, nnd ono whlch ls
.not us extieinu nn the "Clooko" or "llell,"
ls tho du Natured Cloeho, or Hatterod
llell, na wo on thls sldo nro pleased to
cnll lt. Thls is moro of a sallor than tlm
"Cloeho," tliu brim only uloplug a trlllo
und belng wldor on tho sldou than ln
front or thu back. Tho front brim li
froin two nnd u bulf to threo Inchos wlde,
nnd ii llttlo lo tbo left nf tbo ceutei
front turiis off of tbo faco, inaklug thc
brim stlll unrrower nt thls polnt. Thon
ls n sllght haiidenu tn tho bnck ^iisod (U
il fouiiihitioii for tho ti'luiinlnt; ruthei
than us a menns by whlcli to tllt the hat
at nu angle, nnd on thls la posod miiiiy
loops of soft rlbbon, the loops extotidlng
well around tlm sldes of tho hut aud
lllllng tu tho Npiico between tlio hoad aud
tlu; very wlde brlm nt thls polnt,
A very uew Idea lu jnHllnory ls tbo
under brlm faclng, or llnlng. AVllllo vory
froquently thls llnlng Is In tho namo color
as tho hnt tlio Fronch uro using It Inn
coiitriisllng color of sllk or nioiiBSPllne,
If the hcnvy sllk Ib used thln faclng Ib
put ou plnln, but wlth tbo liner bIIIeb uud
triinspiireiit moussnllnes aud chlffon the
materliil ls Bliiri-ed ? over a feuthurbone
cord ut tho edge. A vory Biniirt hat of
thls typo seen lu ono of tbo Kclcct Bhops
along ih'ondwiiy. rocently, wus of n tlne
whlte chlp wlth under brlm faclng of
very soft whlto satin ishlrrod to wlthln
an Inch of tliu edgo of tlie brlm, On tho
left sldu of (lio cri'wn wero posod two
hugo whlte roses wlth green fulliigo, aud
'?tround tho crown overlupplug ench other
wero lurgo whlto velvot louves, . ivlilcU
forin Bon of u erowi| biiudlng, tlio Icnvoa
belng pluceil rntber preclsely. Tbo bun
deau iu tlio huel: wns trimmed .with
luops of wldo whlto sutln rlbbon.** Still
another of bhicl: chlp showed tlio faelnjj
of deep phmi colored sllk, whllo tbo trlm
nilng coiislsted of plnk ribbon on thc
bandeaii uud shndcd plnk roses on tht
crown.
Tlio vogiic of heavy lilnclt trlmmlngs stll
contlnues, nnd very mnny of tho bol
slmped hats, especially thoso for tho von
young glrls, are trlmmod wlth scarfs o
rlbbon, swiUhod about tho crown. aud tln
Islied ln tho back with o hago bow wJilfil
Ktiuids out from tho crown aud droopi
downovej tho brlm, glvlng that sloplni
llno nt tho bnck whlcli Ih now consldcrei
Bo'Binnrt und whloh Is nccentunted by thc
very sharp, cut-away coats ultra fiishlon
idiles aro now weiiring,
Creloiino ns u trimmlng for hats ns wcl
ns suits haa been used nhrond all sonsoi
and by tho vary excluslvo houses on thi
Bldo. Hroud lirlniB aro fuced wlth these
furnlturo coveringa und wholo crowns ar
oflen mado of;thom. Cfotoune rlbboiiB nr
nlso vory Bintfrt, and tlicM |lnd ovon mor
uso than tlio ploco cretonnoB, -Somotimo
tho puttoni of 'tlio crotonuo, especially l
lt Ib vt;|*y Inrgu-?Btieli ns u hugo roso, I
cut out und uppliijuod on tho brlm o
crown. '
Whllo sldo trlmmlngs nro a feature o
Description of II
lustrations*
Thc Slller Illotmc In Moell.ih.
The lingerie hlouso doea not carry all
before lt thls season ns lt bas In pre
vloim.. yenrs. Soft silks aud siitlus ara
ibied extenslvely In dreSBy blouses mada
very much on thc Btylo of the lingerie
blouse. These ure very often called silk
llngorlo blouses. Flne laces oro Inserted,
inotlfs aro upplled, tucks aro run ln hlouso
unel sleeves nnd flne embroideries run
riot over the front aud ln tho cuffs and
collar. A very pnlo yellow I.oulslno I*
used ln the plctured modol ln comblna?
tlon wlth butter colorod lnces, nnd Uie
blouBo front, collar nnd cuffs are em?
broidered In dalsy design, with silk lloss
of n tnatctlliig sliude. Tbe long shoulder
effect la nttalnod by the use of the wldo
hue lnsertion, nnd the sleeves nre ahlrreel
on tbe upper nrm making a doublo puff.
lt will be noted thnt tho sleeves are al?
most full length.
Hliliel Kiiibrolelerlcx i:l.il.eiruto the
l'rottU-Mt HIouitCH.
Tlie dnlntlest lingerie blouses nre those
whleb enrry flne hand embroideries. Bllnd
effects nre llkcd even lietter thnn cyelet
work. Women hnve tired of tho pcek-n
boo waist, nr mayhap the ndveree crltl
ctetn to whlch thls wnlst wna subjected?
we cnnnot sny, hut certaln lt ls that thls
suuuner's waists are far from what mlght
1 classed under thls title. Val. all-over
mckes tho yoko of thls wulst of a flne
handkerchlcf llne, Uie embroideries whlch
outllne tho yoko extendlng upon tbe laco
aud down the front ln plastroa effect.
surroundlng tho croscent shnped medal
llon. The Bleeves aro Binall puffs, In?
serted with vnl. entre dcux nnd flnlabed
wlth a luco trlmmetl cuff. The yoke ex
tends around ln the back nnd the lower
portlon of tho wulst is tucked flnely to
luiiteh tbo front.
Idngt'ric llnt ot TUIm Summer Time.
The bnbylshness whlch onco character
Ized the lingerie hat ls consplcuous by lts
absence In thls year's lingerie modela. Of
course, the lingerie hat for the small tots
antl growlng glrls is stlll seen wlth lts
wlilo ruilled brim nnd crown euclrcled
wlth n ribbon snsh, but tho llngorlo bat
for the growu-up ls made over n wlro
frame, tlie samo as a straw bat, und
moro often than not, there ls a deep
blndlng of silk or satin. ThlB sallor
shape witli a low round crown haa a
wblte satin blndlng over whleb the polnts
of eyelet embroidery ure uppllqued, and
the handenu ls trimmed wlth soft whlto
ehlffou satin ribbon loops ou tho left
sldo nnd iu tho back, nnd a rosotto of
thls ribbon wltb whlto lllacs and plnk
moss roses nre set a little to the left
slde. The liiindeau ls n trlllo hlgher on
the left slde, llftlng the hat lo a be?
comlng angle, >
thls senson's rnllllnery, lt Is to be noted
thnt tho sniartost hats nre those In whlch
tho trlmmlng sturts froin the center frout
of tho crown, belng equally dlstrlhuted on
both sldes of the hnt. Tho bandouu, or
cachepelgne, ls used to a very llmltod ex?
tont, and only as a foundatlon for tho
support of under brim tiiinmlngs. Theso
under brim trlininlngs, by tho way, con?
tlnuo ns full and volumlnous ns wo saw
tbera in tho flrst models. Tho deep back
brhns of nearly all of tho popular Bkapea
requlro a moro or Icbb olaborate hair
dresslng. Even thouab tho spaco bo?
tween tho head and tho hat brim Is
well fllled In wlth flowers or rlhhoiia,
thls solf samo trlinmlrig noeds somo sort
of a support or bulanco lu tho wny of
curls or. puffs to preaorvo tbo perfect
contour of thn hend. . French women nre
weuring ntiineiotis puffs und frlsottes,
ns they cnll thom, und vury frciiuontly
thoso nro iittnohed to tha hat nnd worn
only when lhe hnt la worn. Theso aro
worn only fnr street wear or indoors ut a
rocoptlon, or ou somo such occaslons
when tho hnt Is uot ronioved. Thls ar
riiugotuent savos no ond of troublo, for
lt does away wlth tho necesslty of ro
droeslng the bfllr when thu hnt ls re?
moved, tho street hnir dresslng of puffa
nud curls lioing out of proportlou i.o tbo
slzo of tho head wlthout. tho hut,
Aiiothur heeiiiiilng ahupe, und onu whlch
will bo worn moro by mlsses nnd young
mntiona Is Um sun-down, n shapo very
slinllar to tho old-fashloned sun-down
whlch our grtindinotberg ' woro, and for
whlch tho moilei'ii hnt ls named. Ils
trluinilng ls qulto aa slmplo as lts shapo
nnd iiuine, belng but n long length of
ribbon, silk or velvet, drnped nerass tbo
frout of tho crown over tbo sldes of tho
hi'lm und lylng In a how nt tbo baso
of tho hoad. On thls ribbon. Is tackod
lt wroath of flowers, and tho back, whlch'
Is lil'led Just over so ulightly, lu fllled lu
wlth Ilowers or moro of tbo ribbon. Theso
hats aro" iiartlcularly charmlng wlth
dainty summer frocks mado._ ln quulut
Jupuneso or emplro styjea.