The times dispatch. [volume], October 26, 1913, Image 58

About The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914

Image provided by: Library of Virginia; Richmond, VA

                
A Group of New Dresses Designed by Bakst, Reflecting the Harem Fashions.
The Craze for the Oriental
Increases, and Dresses Are
Growing More "Feminine"
LADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous "Lueile" of
London, and foremost creator of fashions in the
world, writes each week the fashion article for
this newspaper, presenting all that is newest and best in
ttyle* for well-dressed women.
Lady Duff-Gordon's Paris establishment brings her
into close touch with that centre of fashion.
Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishment is at
Nos. 37 and 39 West Fifty-seventh street. New York.
\Vi
Striking Afternoon Gown of Dull
Blue Taffeta. Showing the
New Over-Skirt.
By Lady Duff-Gordon
("Luclle")
Pari?, f)ct. 16.
THE harem Influence continues to be
strongly evident In the fashions
of tie Winter The Arabs have a
?aving that all pood things come from the
East. So we In Paris turn Eastward for
o:ir fashions. We are taking the best In
color and df-slgn from each country, even
from Perrfa.
There are no such color combinations In
the world nr. thope tte pet from the Orient.
Not only ?o *e get color, but we get dc
fflgna and fabrics that are gloriously beau
tiful. Where but In the harem could -we get
such complete ff-mlnlnlty as has been dis
mayed In the fashions of the last five years?
The har?ir. dress It the dress of allurement.
Ko Occidental women understand the mys
tery, the dep'h of allurement as the Ori
ental women do They t-.re the essence ol
femininity, aj-.d to man this essence 18 the
most alluring thing lr, the world, c
In the pictures 1 am pending this week
the Oriental Influence Is r.hown in the color
and fabric rather than In the design.
These models vere shown it an open
ing 4n September. The dancing gown 1?
the queintefti thing Imaginable. It 13 de
veloped In delicate ro&e charmense. The
tnlnaret tunic Is of rose chifion edged
with fur that i?* caught in places with tiny
Bold rwe?.^Tlic uodice, v.ith it interesting
ty draped ?leev?8, la of the chiffon, dec
orated with pearls.
The cap head-dreas Is essentially fem
inine, I think It is. however, only suit
ed for a youthful and, preferably, a
piquant face.
The afternoon gown of dull blue taf
feta ehows the harem Influence In ..the
scant, up-ln-front skirt. The bouffant
over-skirt, with its three frills, is very
obic and most modern. There is a hint
of -the zouave in the plaid belt and tLe
voluminous bodice. The three-tiered
sleeveB are very new, and are, 1 think,
very fetching.
There is a chlcness about this walking
costume which will appeal to many Amer
can women It la the favorite black-and
white combination, too. The skirt is
severely simple, but has excellent lines
The coat Is of white brocaded velour. and
1$ of a remarkable simplicity The black
velvet hat. with Its white plume, carries out
the black-and-white idea very delightfully.
An odd touch is Riven by the pearl band
under the chin Instead of the black velvet
rlb'i>on which many of the young women are
wearing.
No, we have not taken our painted furs
from the Orient- They are distinctly Pari
sian. I have seen some remarkable results
recently In the development of the&e furs,
and I am triad to be able to tell you more
about them, and am also glad to bo able
to tell you that they have not caught on
with really smart women.
That is an admitted fact, for which wo
Should be truly thankful, for a mass of
bright geranium red, or emerald green, or
sapphire blue, laid about the shoulders and
coming close up against the face, would bo
unbecoming to almost any one, and posi
tively fatally so to some.
But some of the softly shaded furB which
have now appeared have been instantly wel
comed. end will be much worn during the
next few weeks, some of these being Just
the more ordinary Etoles and inuffs formed
of complete skins, while others are fancifully
arranged with foundations and frillings of
velvet or satin.
The variety of these new and decorative
fur tfrts 1fi, Indeed, eirnply wonderful, and
the recyU of it all will be that the fashion
able -woman will assuredly be involved this
season In a very heavy extra outlay (her
husband probably calling it "wickedly ex
?r/n
11$
travagant!") For she wiTl
?want at least three fur
coats in the different
shapes and lengths and
skins. mo3t?and equally?
approved by Fashion, and
certainly the same number
of stole and muff sets; one,
pertiaps. chiefly protective
and suited to general
wear, another in one of
the striking contrast
schemes of black and
white, which are to have
a great vogrue and a
third, .frankly sensational
and daring to a degreo
which would have been im
possible a year or two ago
but which nowadays 1b
quite necessary if anything
of a mark, is bo be made
In * the season of sensa
tional fashions, fabrics and
furs.
Oh! if only a man could
bo made to understand for
Just a moment what a
woman feela when ahe is
confronted by. say. three
entirely desirable and de
lightful th!ng3. and then
sadly remembers ? or is
sternly told?that she can
have only one! It is noth
ing more nor less than a
tragedy, for a woman's
time for wearing, or, at
any rate, looking really
well In these smart, "sen
sation" things, Is so horribly short: for onco
she begins to show the slightest sign of age,
or even middle age, she cannot?or, at any
rate, should not?bo allowed to wear any
thing startling or extreme, but Just be con
tent to have dignified and "suitable" clothes.
Positively, I pity the middle-aged woman
this season, for though rich fabrics (whioh
would once have been dedicated to tho
dowagers) ore in general use, there Is noth
ing in the style of their making up but a
delightful, provocative, tantalizing daring,
only suited to the more youthful and slender
wearers.
The mufT brings the velvety moleskins
into more prominence, for they are used to
form the whole of the deeply pointed, loosely
Debutante
Dancing
Gown
of Rose
Satin
and Chiffon,
wilh
the New
Minaret
Pannier.
iyia, l>y lUu Slur Comyuny. Ureal -Britain JUlgUts Reserved.
hanging pouch shape, from which again
there hangs a swaying silken fringe. Then
on either side of the "widest upper part a
yellow fox skin Is curved, the position of
each one being exactly reversed, eo that
both at the back and In the front you get
ono head and one tail ao an additional
adornment
Another set brings the oame well con
trasted furs together, but In this case the
fox is tinted to a pale amber shade, while
the moleskin Is of the softest moss green,
and the stole has for fastening and finish a
big and beautiful ornament of silk cord and
tasscle.
Walking Costume of Black Cygne, with
White Borcade Coat Trimmed
with Swansdown.