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Wausau pilot. [volume] (Wausau, Wis.) 1896-1940, May 12, 1903, Image 2

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85040749/1903-05-12/ed-1/seq-2/

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SOLUTION Of THE LABOR PROBLEM.
CUrroll D, Wright, Commissioner ot Labor.
The solution of the labor problem is
an impossibility, a conclusion 1 have
v. reached after years of careful eousid-
Mg|i? er.-ti, n of the question, and I base this
IKr /> Yt assertion upon the fact that in order
lit to solve satisfactorily this difficult prob
/r. h'ui the problem of life itself must at
Af, V ; the same lime be solved. By this I do
j W J&Si n °t mean to say that unfortunate in
'V dustrial conditions may not be nineli
orated, for they can be to a greater
or less extent when treated intelligeut
c. n. v. aiuirr. Iy and fairly. The inborn restless hope
of mankind for advancement, the ceaseless struggle of the
human race for opportunities to eu.joy life on a higher
plane, the tremendous influence of belief on action,
cannot be killed, and : they are the very essence of the
problem of labor, the impossibility of its solution becomes
apparent
THREE TRUST EViLS AND THE REMEDY.
By Alber: J. Beveridge. Senator from Indiana.
-J There are three trust evils. First, the water-
U ing of stocks, which defrauds the iuuoeent pur
£/ chaser of those s< entities. While only a few of
jjjf our eighty millions are injured in that way, that
jn evil must nevertheless lie remedied, and its only
W remedy is publicity, for no one will buy a worth-
JL less share of stock if lie knows the condition of
jMbk the corporation that issues it. When statements
” -i of their business are published to the world,
every purchaser may know what he buys. The other evils
of trusts are the unjust raising of prices and the unjust
lowering of wages. Prices are seldom arbitrarily raised by
trusts, because the higher the prices the smaller the sales,
and therefore the smaller their profits. Although unjust
reductions of wages Is less and less frequent, as is proved
by the voluntary advancement of the wages of the em
ployes of the steel trust and hundreds of other great em
ployers of labor, the possibility of such a wrong must be
prevented.
The only method to prevent these wrongs is the gradual
development of national control of corporations doing busi
ness throughout the nation. Effective national supervision
must grow. Ironclad coutrol of business methods which
th. uiselves are perpetually changing and improving cannot
lie created on the instant, and would not be effective if
It could. National control which accomplishes anything
must develop ns the changing methods or organized in
dustry themselves develop. Moderation is the word of
wisdom in all human legislation that attempts to regulate
the business activities of 80,000,000 people.
HOW TO CHOOSE A HUSBAND.
By Mrs. C. C. Humphrey.
It Is easy enough to give advice on the choice
Bu of a husband—to say that he should he well off,
Bf good-tempered. In a suitable social stratum,
Irf good-looking, but not so handsome as to be a
frl germ of lAeart disease, and congenial to a girl's
tir own likes and dislikes.
JL But what is the use of advice? When love
creates his own matchless atmosphere about a
man the girl no longer sees him as he is. She
may have said: "I will never marry a widower” (heaps of
girls say that).
“I will never, never, never marry a poor man! I won’t
-—simply won’t—marry anybody under 33” (33 is a fa
vorite age among girls).
“The man 1 marry must he taller tl an I am and of dis
tinguished appearance” (girls all warn that).
'I simply could not marry a man who stoops cr stam
mers, or lisps, or says Tie, lie!’ when he laughs.”
That is the way girls talk to their Inmost thoughts. Then
MEMORIAL TO WINNIE DAVIS
Daughter of the Confederacy to Have
a Hall Named After Her.
Winnie Davis, the daughter of the
Confederacy, who died a few years
ago, is to he honored by a memorial,
which Is now in process of erection in
connection with the State Norma!
School at Athens, Ga. The Idea daies
back to four years ago. when the Stave
branch of the Daughters of the Cos.,
federaey held a convention at Rome,
Ga. It was then decided that there
could be no more appropriate method
of honoring the memory of the south
ern President’s daughter than by the
addition to one of Georgia’s Normal
Schools for a dormitory for the chil
dren or grandchildren of Confederate
f *
THE WINNIE DAVIS HALL.
veterans, and Athens was selected as
the beneficiary. The Daughters of
the Confederacy had collected SOO,OOO
toward the cost when the Southern
Educational Congress, at a meeting
held a year ago. offered to contribute
half of the additional SO,OOO which was
n -eded. ThG left only $4,500 to be
provided, and that fuud is uow practi
cally completed.
The schopl at Athens is badly ham
pered ou account of suitable accommo
dations. The Winnie Davis hall will
to a considerable extent relieve this
condition. The nature of the memorial
Is looked upon approvingly In the
south. Mrs. Jefferson Davis says of
It: "It Is to me one of the dearest of
all efforts to do honor to my child's
spotless name.”
THE OLD WASHINGTON ESTATE.
Grounds Much Less Extensive Than
They Were Oriuinnlly.
“Speaking of antique furniture.’'
said Maj. Robert Washington of West
moreland county. Virginia, in the
Washington Star, "reminds me that
my sister. Mrs. James Wilson, of j
Pope's creek, and who resides only a ;
lew rods from the spot on which Gen.
Washington was born, owns a ma
hogany table on which Robert Fulton j
was In the habit of shoe lag his plans
for the first steamboat to my father. ■
Augustus Washington, who at the
time was a resident of Georgetown.
The table is of medium size and was
willed by my father to Sts present
owner.
"My sister and I reside on the orig-1
Inal Washington estate. The latter |
Is greatly reduced in extent from what j
It was over ’<X> years ago. The fam- j
ily burial ground is located on
Brydge's creek, at the outlet of which
the first Washingtons settled. The
remains of the fatacr of 'Ten. Vi ash- !
lngton are buried at Brydge's creek.
Originally there was a vault in the
cemetery, which fell into decay; so
much so that many acts of vandalism
took place and the heirs decided to
pull it down and reinter the remains
of those persons which had been placed
in 4L
"There are quite a number of per
sons In Westmoreland and Caroline
counties named Washington unrelated
to my branch of the family, although
their descendants, like my own, came
from England. A Dr. Washington of
He comes along, pushes the imagined hero fror, the pedes
tal, and climbs up himself. The girl helps b thinking
that she has finally found a man so far a! her pre
conceived notion that it is gross disloyalty to her new
found affinity to remember that she had ever known a
dream kuight. She changes the man of her spirit for the
man of fiesh and blood, joyously and with terrible ab
ruptness.
When a girl se.eots from her admirers the man of her
choice, impelled by this fateful fascination, site eften
emerges from the enchanted atmosphere of love’s young
dream and regards her husband with astonishment, occa
sionally mixed with a sentiment that may he gently de
scribed as the opposite of agreeable. She secs the poor
man as he is, and not as her rosy fancy painted him. and
is surprised at herself for having made such i curious
choice.
Girls should he careful whom they admit beyond the
vestibule of acquaintance to the warm inner chambers of
friendship. There is an unerring instinct that tells a wom
au whether a man is good or bad. She who is capable of
encouraging an acquaintance with r oad uian is lacking
iu some of that refinement which marks the true woman.
The best way to avoid falling in love with undesirable
moiL !s not to know them. Poverty is a disadvantage iu a
possible husband: but what a chan and wholesome disad
vantage as compared with that of a low. debased nature!
g• • ~ do far worse than nulrry n poor man. For in
stance, sue might fall in love with nod tie her life to an un
healthy one; and that spells Mise;y in large capitals!
business responsib:liiies.
By Henry E. S treck, of Aeir York.
To the spectator standing by the side of the
ffj track when the Empire Express sweeps by at a
b!f mile a minute the power indicated by the rushing
ffj train is almost overwhelmingly impressive. And
rj yet It is completely under the control of the en-
JF glneer, who, with his hand on the throttle can.
JL by the pressure of a single finger, regulate the
jMSa speed of the express or bring it to a standstill.
The position of the engineer with reference to the
train is very much like that of the man who stands at the
head of a great mercantile establishment. As he sits in
his office he can, by touching a button, summon to his
presence the members of his executive staff, who are di
rectly in charge of the several departments, and give them
his orders. It is their duty individually to see that they are
carried out. The manager’s responsibility is large, but, as
it Is shared by his chief assistants, his duties are not ex
tremely wearing. His attitude toward his staff is that of
counsellor, commander and a deviser of plans.
Relatively speaking, the man who owns and directs a
small business has a much harder task. In most cases he
has no one with whom to divide the responsibility or to re
lieve him of the burden of detail work. If he is conducting
a dry goods store, he must buy the goods, see that they are
properly displayed, write the advertisements, look the
finances, make collections, hire the clerks and perform the
work of a salesman himself. His hours are long, his duties
exacting and his periods of pleasure extremely limited.
When he goes home at night. I: is not to sit down and chat
with his wife and children, but to write business letters, to
make out bills, or to draw up plans for the future. While
the responsibility resting upon the shoulders of the man
ager of a big establishment, is great, it is not to be com
pared with that of the conductor of a small one. The latter
is Individually compelled to bear all the vexations of his
business. No one shares them with him. Things "get onto
his nerves," and unless he learns to be philosophical, and
to meet the difficulties as they arise with a firm and patient
spirit, he soon goes to pieces under the pressure.
I am uot prepared to assert that it takes a smarter man
to make a success of a small business than of a large one.
but I will say that he who can, in the midst of sharp com
petition. establish and satisfactorily develop a business of
his own. must be possessed of a hatful of brains, and know
how to use them.
PRESIDENT ROOSEVELT HAS RECEIVED
MANY WOUNDS DURING HIS LIFE
SUCH a .ollectlou of scars as that borne by President Roosevelt was
never owned by au American chief executive before. He Is the “most
wounded” President of the United States. Fifteen injuries of a more
or less serious nature have been received by him since he reached
manhood.
During his football days lie received many bruises, and during his
ranching career in the West he got three ribs broken. Later In the Bad
Lands he had a bone broken In his shoulder from a fall from a vicious horse.
He was attacked by a grizzly bear while hunting in Idaho in ISS9. and
escaped by a narrow margin. Two years before that he was chased by
an infuriated steer In the Big Horn country of Wyoming. He grabbed the
steer by the horns, vaulted to its back, and rode it for two miles.
On more recent hunting trips lu Colorado he has had encounters with
mountain lions lu which his quickness of hand frequently saved his life.
He was slightly wounded in the hand during the Cuban campaign, and
he barely escaped death In the trolley accident at Pittsfield. His leg was so
injured that an operatic for abscess had to be performed later.
President Roosevelt’s .ast two injuries have been received at the hands
of his intimate friend. General Leonard Wood, in single stick and rapier
play, which they used as exercise almost daily. A few weeks ago General
Wood thrust his rapier through the President’s mask, bruising him severely
ou the forehead and narrowly missing his left eye. A week later the two
friends were in a vigorous bout with the single stick In an improvised gym
nasium near the top of the White House. The play became rather heated,
and iu the rapid play the President caught a heavy cut on the wrist. He
had to shake hands with his left hand at the recent White House reception.
Caroline county married one of my
sisters, but that is the only relation
ship he bears to me. My wife Is a
granddaughter of William Wirt, ex
attorney-general. and who prosecuted,
on the part of the federal government.
Aaron Burr for conspiracy. The lath
er of the chief Justice who sat in the
case. Col. Tom Marshall, was a native
of Westmoreland county and the chief
justice himself narrowly escaped be
ing also a native of the county, as
he was born only a few months after
his father moved to Fauquier."
AMERICAN MACHINE IN PERSIA.
Fair Honri to Gain Freedom With the
Comini: of the Sewing Machine.
The American harvesting machine Is
now seen in Palestine and Assyrian
grain fields, even in the field where
liuih gleaned, and the American sew
ing machine has invaded Persia. Min
ister Grlscom says it is “about the!
first thing oue sees on entering a vil
lage" lu the shah’s domains. A New i
York Idea influencing the price of |
wheat in the home of Nebuchadnezzar
and a Yankee notion Improving the
condition of Oriental womanhood,
says the New York World. These
| gifts from the barbaric West wipe out
much of the debt we owe tuo far East.
Tho Introduction of the sewing ma
| chine into Persia means the doom of
the harem. A Morocco monarch Is
t about to lose his thr- > because of the
ulcyclo. but the Idea is there and the
next generation of Moors may raise
a monument to him for bis progres
siveness. The first hum of the ma
chine in the seraglio may mean trou
ble for tlie favorite. Perhaps the dar
iag odalisque will pay the penalty
| with his head. But In the end 1: means
the intelligence and moral uplifting of
the sex. And when the typewriter fol
lows in its wake their emancipation
will be complete.
MODERN ENGINEERING FEATS
Recent Work in Australia Has Been
of Value to Gold Fields.
An unparalleled engineering feat has
recently been achieved in Australia
of immense value to the gold fields.
The Loolgardie water scheme is to
Austr.Vlft what the fatuous Assuan
dam Is to EgypL The remarkable
feat of pumping fi.000,000 gallons of
water a day for a distance of 350
miles, from the Helena River to Kai
goorlle. has been accomplished by
English engineers by means of a great
dam, called the Mundaring weir,
“'any feet big constructed across
toe Helena "tiver twenty miles from
Perth. The reservoir capacity is about
5.000.000.000 gallons. There are a
number of auxiliary reservoirs and
pumping stations along the thirty-inch
steel water main which runs along the
railroad line to the goldfields—the
“richest square mile of earth on the
globe"—near Kilgoorlle. The only for
eign enterprise of equal importance is
the Simplon tunnel, the great burrow
which will make Switzerland and
Italy next-door neighbors. In a short
time Pußman trains will pass through
the Simplon Alps in a few minutes.
7.000 feet under the snow-covered dil
igence road which Napoleon Bona
parte built a hundred years ago and
which takes about ten hours to
traverse In favorable weather. This
tremendous rathole. which passes un
der Lake Avlno. will cost the Jura-
Simplon Railroad over $15,000,000.
Collier *: Weekly.
"Send by Inclosed GlrL'*
An East Side druggist is preparing
a unique scrap book. It contaius the
written orders of some customers of
fcrclfc- birth, and these orders are
both curious and amusing. Here are
some that are copied from the orig
inals:
“I have a cute paiu In my child’s
diagram. Please give my son some
thing to release it."
"Dear Docther. pics gif bearer five
sense worth of Auntie Toxyn for garle
baby’s throat and obi cage.”
“My little baby has eat up its fa
ther's parish plaster. Send an anec
dote quick as possible by the inclosed
girl.”
“This child is my little girl. 1 send
you five cent to buy two sitless pow
ders for a groan up Adult who is
sike.”
“You will please give the lettle bol
five cents' worth of epeese for to
throw up In a five months old babe.
X. B.— The babe has a sore stummici:.'’
"I haf a hot time in my insides and
wlch I wood like it to be extinguished.
What js good for to extinguish it? The
inclosed money is the price of the ex
tinguisher. Hurry picas.”—New York
Press.
Appropriately attired: Penelope—
How do you like my new automobile
costume? Constance —Well, you cer
tainly looked dressed to kill.—Ex
, change.
INTERURBAN ELECTRIC RAIL
ROADS IN THE MIDDLE WEST.
aXI.Y about fifteen years ago. when tlie electric car began
| a timid assault on the immediate suburbs of large cities,
it was always considered doubtful whether it would
ever successfully bring people of small towns to be
come egular travelers If it ventured ou interurban
work. No such fears now haunt the minds of those
who are promoting trolley car enterprises. From every
part of the United States is coming a steady demand
for interurban electric service. Municipalities so small
as to be able to find their way onto the maps only by
’ sufferance are demanding connection with larger centers
and their citizens are coming to the front with such
pledges of support that they will not have to wait long
before they are satisfied.
Among the smaller towns and cities of the United S*** ~ people are be
ginning to realize more and more that Isolation means neither superiority
nor comfort. There is a constantly growing desire to join bands with other
localities, to be enabled at all times to come into actual physical coutact
with the people of other centers of population, and to establish not only
Interurban communication by means of telephone service, but through a sys
tem of travel that shall be pleasant, easy of access and inexpensive.
This sentiment is increasing every day. To satisfy it the electric trolley
ear has begun its march away from the great cities, and its advent into new
ncighbo hoods is being welcomed with every demonstration of delight. It is
invadmg the mountains, the lakes, the prairies; establishing rapid transit
between villages, towns and cities, bringing tlie people of different counties
in daily and hourly touch with one another, and creating for itself a won
derful sphere of usefulness.
It has no fear of competition, even when it saucily whizzes along past
towns already well provided with steam transportation, for it invariably gets
its share of the business, and, more remarkable still, opens up an entirely
new traffic of its own that never could have existed without its coming.
Illinois, lowa, Indiana. Michigan and Ohio are pushing the building of
these electric roads in a manner almost beyond belief of those to whose
notice this subject is brought for the first time. In Illinois alone from fifty
to sixty million dollars is now being spent in construction and mainte
nance of iuterurban roads and half as much again is being gathered for new
construction already planned. The people of every locality in the State
seem to have awakened within the past three years to the great value of
service of this character, and every month towns are being placed within
an hour's distance of one another that formerly were as far apart as if they
had been separated by hundreds of miles.
The interurban electric car of to-day and the roadbed on which it runs
are splendidly equipped. The cars make from thirty to fifty miles au hour
and are fitted with the most modern air brake appliances and lighting and
heating systems. The roadbed is often as substantial and as carefully con
structed as those of the best steam road service, and continuous sprinkling
service in summer and snowplow service in winter keep it free from the au
noying conditions so often met with on routes of steam travel.
One of the valuable considerations that has turned the attention of coun
try towns to the great value to their people of interurban trolley connections
has come through the almost impassable condition of the country roads at
certain times of the year. With the electric car running at stated intervals
and connecting farming communities with main centers of population at all
times, irrespective of weather conditions, they are able to assure themselves
of steady delivery of their produce where it can command the best rates.
TWELVE INSECT PESTS THAT COST
UNCLE SAM $358,000,000 ANNUAELY.
* WELVE insects will cost the United States $330,000,000 this year.
s The cbinchbug will draw $100,000,000 of this amount, the grasshopper
will take $90,000,000 and the hessian fly will call for at least $50,000,-
| 000 more. Three worms that attack the cotton plant will assess the
farmers for a toinl of $00,000,000 and the potato hug will eat $8,000,000 worth
of its favorite kind of garden produce. Ten millions of dollars Is a moderate
estimate of the injury that will be done by the apple worm, and the cater
pillar that makes cabbages Its specialty will destroy $5,000,000 worth of crisp
green heads.
The estimate, which Is conservative and under the mark. Is as follows:
Cbinchbug $100,000,000
Grasshopper 90,000,000
Hessian fiy 50,000,000
Potato bug 8,000.000
San Jose scale 10,000.000
Grain weevil .• 10.000,000
Apple worm 10,000.000
Army worm 15.000.000
Cabbage worm 5.000,000
801 l weevil (cotton) 20,000.000
801 l worm (cotton) 25.000,000
Cotton wort 13,000,000
Total $358,000,000
How absurd it seems that the Uuited States government, with au army
of 05,000 men. 234 warships and more money in the treasury than any nation
has ever before possessed, should be helpless in a fight against twelve ob
ject loanble bugs!
Yet such is the fact. The individual bug Is small, but Its “strong hold” Is
its tremendous power of reproduction. What is to be done in conflict with
au adversary which is capable of having a billion descendants in a summer?
In conflict with such an enemy Uncle Sam finds himself in much the same
situation as that of Gulliver when he discovered that he was at the mercy of
the Liliputiaus.
MISSIONARY ON RACE SUICIDE.
Rev. Ur. Ryder of Opinion that Ameri
can* Are Not Decreasing.
Rev. Dr. C. J. Ryder, secretary of the
American Missionary Association, al
luding to recent alarming views of the
daily press and the weekly religious
journals with regard to the decrease of
native population in the United States,
says:
“Even our President called attention
to this danger. The disaster which
threatened the nation on account of the
vust flood of foreign immigrants, and
ihe fact that American people were
dying out. have presented serious con
siderations. Careful compilation, how
ever, of the statistics does not sustain
this view. The twelfth census shows
that the birth rate in the United States
is slightly larger In the decennial period
1890 to 1900 than in that of 18S0 to
1890. Another Interesting feature is
M.at the greatest increase occurred in
he northeastern group of the States,
including New England. This, again. Is
contrary to a preconceived opinion. It
has been assumed that, especially in
New England, the birth rate—and so
the native population—was decreasing.
These facts show that the great prob
‘em Is still among the dependent peo
ple In our own land, and does not arise
from the rapid increase of foreigners.
The birth rate among the negroes is
vastly larger than that among the
whites. The national problem still
abides in the South land, and is that of
the Christian education and elevation
of the colored people.”
MEW COAST DEFENSE
BATTERY RECENTLY INVENTED
The pa'ent office at Washington has
just granted the rigH of paten': *-> An
son Phelps Stokes for a Seating coast
defense battery, which the noted phil
anthropist has designed. The fact that
Mr. Stokes' claim to fame rests on his
THE STOKES FLOATING BATTEST.
kindly and benevolent nature makes
his efforts to invent a deadly war
me chine seem incongruous.
Th? Stokes batte’-y. when viewed
from the shore, will present an ap
pearance similar to the upper third of
a huge submerged sphere. The ma
chine is to be globular in shape and
will be protected by the heaviest
that can be madei It trill contain but
one gun. but that one will be of Im
mense size and detractive power, and
it will be imasovably fixed. To de
press or elevate the muzzle the trim
of the firing side of the battery itself
will be raised or lowered by changing
movable ballast. The Stokes battery
will be propelled by a launch, which
will be taken inside wnen the machine
is once in position.
It Is believed that the spherical
shape of the vessel will make it ’'rad
ically impregnable and that torpedoes
or other missiles hurled against it will
be deflected by the non-resistence of
the globular target presented.
Doe estoppel Talk'ng.
An old but still droll story is narrat
ed of a talking dog to which the power
of speech was seemingly given by the
art of a ventriloquist. The dog and his
master arrived at a hotel, the latter
with only a quarter ot a dollar in his
pocket.
“Well, what will you have?” asked
the proprietor.
■‘l’ll take a little whisky.” said the
ventriloquist, and then, turning to the
dog. lie asked: “Whet will you have?”
"I’ll take a ham sandwich,” was the
dog’s reply.
The hotelkeeper was breathless for
a moment from astonishment. He
stared at the dog in amazement.
“What did you say?” he asked it.
“I said a ham sandwich.”
The proprietor was so impressed by
the unheard-of phenomenon of a talk
ing dog that in the end he offered to
buy it.
“Oh,” said the ventriloquist. “I
wouldn't sell him at any price, but if
you'll lend me S3O I'll leave him with
you till I bring back the money.”
To this the hotelkeeper agreed, think
ing he would have some fun with h'
friends and neighbors. Everything
was settled and the money paid. As
the ventriloquist went out he turned
and waved bis hand to the dog.
"Well, good-by. Jack”’ he said. “I’ll
S come back soon.”
“You mean brute, to sell me for S3O,
after all I've done for you!” answered
the dog. “I'll never speak another
i word ns long as I liver* And he didn’t,
j —New York Weekly.
He Wanted Specification*.
“There is never any uncertainty
where I stand.” said the pompous
speaker at the ward meeting; “I'm a
stalwart:”
Whereupon the little man with a
squeaky voice half arose and, putting
his hand to bis ear. inquired: “What
kind of a wart?”—Kansas City Jour
nal.
Valuable to Olive Grower*.
Anew process for extracting oil
from olives by a centrifugal machine,
such as is used in sugar refineries,
will effect an enormous saving to the
olive growers of California.
Books Well Done.
“I have something exceedingly rare
in the way of books.”
“Thanks. When it comes to a book.
I prefer one that is well done.”—Har
per’s Bazar.
When a woman thinks a great deal
of a visitor, she takes her guest out to
vis! ertain graves in the cemetery the
first day.
Lord Curxoa is the twenty seventh
governor of India.
WHITE IS THK COI.OB.
THE DRESSY SKIRT WAISTS WILL
BE OF IT.
Return to Old Style of Corsets Would
Be Much to Be Deplored—Skirts Are
a Problem Just Now— Fashion Notes
from Gotham.
New Ysrk correspondence:
waist suits
iu heavy linen are
t* ygy’ 'bi ins; made with
V the yoke very lone
1, ;llHl 1:1 effect like
(\-.p :l bolero, the
{; V waist of lace or
*\\ thin white goods
showing under it.
f x fj.h v There is no open
fir'iV’j ;:1 ~ v si wo
/’ * j some of these, the
f f : i. ji fastening coming
/. •* •( .-4 on the shoulder,
/ !j1 { l * and the fit is per-
Jfi-1) 'j * at'Vi feet if they are
'. * i made right. There
1 , ,V‘ V V is as much tit and
'is. style required to
the properly made
shirt waist suit
as there is to a tailor-made, and when
anyone has studied a careless dresser in
a shirt waist and skirt, the two parting
company and the whole get-up suggest
ing that it has been thrown together, it
is evident that care must be taken to
make a shirt waist suit look trim.
TIIE BILLOWED AND THE PLAIN.
The dressy shirt waist of summer is to
be white, and many of tln-o are the
daintieset creations imaginable. Some
made of all-over embroideries are so
sheer and fine that they seem almost too
delicate for use, but they will be com
fortable of hot days. A goodly number
of these open in the back, ami the long
blousing effect is seen in front. The waist
line certainly is moving up a little, and
the ugly trick of trying to bring it down
where the hip ought to be is out. The
straight front is as stylish as ever, but it
is not so exaggerated. It is to be hoped
that the fashions will never go back to
the old forms of corset, for there is more
comfort to be had from the straight
front model than from any of its prede
cessors. If a woman is not comfortable
in this style of corset, then her corset
does not fit her. Just think of the old
method of putting on the corset and then
simply pulling it so tight that the flesh
fairly bulged above and below the waist
lino, and compare It with the corset of
to-day, which is not tight enikigh any
where to be uncomfortable. A great
many women buy corsets without further
test of them than they would give to a
tin kettle, but they should be tried on as
carefully as a gown would be. Fine
makes come in many different shapes,
and by patience the shopper can be suit
ed.
Skirts are a problem these days, and
It takes a woman a long time to decide
just what way she wants her skirts
made, for one style looks so pretty in
some goods and so ugly in others that it
makes choosing difficult. The new forms
of gathering and shirring are really be
ginning to seem pretty, and are certain
ly desirable for the thin goods. In heav
ier materials they’re not so attractive.
An example was a tan broadcloth, the
skirt gathered foil in the back, the* full
ness at the sides laid in little side pleats.
The bodice accompanying this skirt was
•urmounted by a broad shoulder cape of
the cloth and by very loose flowing
■leeves. and the whole had a look of ox
TWO MORE NEW SKIRTS.
tessivc bigness. In thinner materials the
fashion doesn't seem so exaggerated, and
in the heavier ones undue .-tenderness
may be relieved. The weight of cloth
gowns with so mneh fullness ia them is
considerable, admirably light as the new
weaves are. Skirts showing two box
pleats in the center of the frost are num
erous. This design teems odd at first,
but is to be stylish. These box-pleats
are see a on light twine cloths and can
vases as well as on cloth gowns.
The matter of choice from the ampler
skirt models is not easy, but in dress
ups it is many times more diflicult.
Lucky the woman given to impulsive en-
For her there is hope that
'crlr in her search decide that one
particular model is the very thing. True,
she may repent at her leisure, but any
how she’!! be saved the annoyance of be
ing able to choose, only after t long
search and not to her entire satisfaction.
Hint of the diversity that exists is given
in the accompanying pictures, la the in
itial ia a black-dotted white lawn smock
ed down over the hi*-' in yoke effect An
tique lace worked heavily in black silk
trimmed it. At the left iu the next pic
tor* ia a shirred model, tha fullness
eanght in puffings, black panne velvet and
lace insertion yoke trimming it. Beside
tnis is a tignt model, its fulluess held in
tiny tucks. Handkerchief linen and em
broidery insertions were its components.
The seated figure in the concluding pic
ture displays a skirt gathered at the
top. Its goods was light tan voile. Its
trimmings were yak lace and fancy
fringe ornaments. The artist’s last selec
tion was a side-pleated model in gray
eolian, with yoke and sleeves of clunv
lace and trimmings of fancy passemen
terie and fringes in gray. Fashionable
extremes are represented by extraordi
nary models, that because of prevailing
diversity, do not seem overdone. Souio
full gathered skirts have a qunint old
fashioned appearance, recalling old-time
daguerreotypes with their full skirts and
flowing sleeves.
Occasionally a suit is seen in which
the skirt clears‘the ground and which
comes nearer the walking length prom
ised last winter than anything bad lately.
There is, however, little style to these
models. They suggest that tailors had
made them simply to suit the demands
of some of the strong-minded sisters,
not as if they were intended for careful
dressers. It is too bad, too, for solid
comfort is to be taken in a short suit.
Loose black silk coats are very pretty
and stylish. Their decorations are much
varied. Many are simply trimmed with
white silk stitching, others show lace and
passementeries. The three-quarter length
is seen a great deal, in the loose gar
ments, A wide Insertion of antique or
cluny down the fronts bordered on both
sides with passementerie, makes a pret
ty finish. These black silk coats are
about as serviceable as any coat that can
he had. They are dressy enough to look
well with any gown, and may be worr
with dark colored or white dresses.
Fashion Notes.
Perishable, if pretty, tea and coffee
coats can be mane out of printed chif
fons. worn over a plain, self-colored silk
blouse or slip, though they are best in
white. More serviceable are those in
net, printed with flowers in the same
way as the chiffon, and aim equally
pretty. This net is a delightful notion.
Skirts and Klips are made separately,
so that one silk slip may do duly for
half a dozen skirts, just as colored silk
under-bodices will transform the smart
slip. This fashion is most practical if it
is well carried out and when visiting or
traveling quite a bewildering number of
dreoses and blouses may be packed nto a
moderate-sized trunk.
The blouse proper, or lined blouse, has
become a thing of the past. We have
turned our thoughts to the practical slip
bodice, worn over a tight-fitting but
scarcely boned underbodice of silk, flan
nelette or satin. Bones, indeed, are al
most eliminated; the new style of bodice
is supple and the material is softly
swathed round the figure. The only stiff
bodice is the court or Louis Seize bodice
aud cuirass.
Bordered materials and those with
fancy selvages will be used this season
both for bodices and skirts. Most of the
very smart blouses have a shoulder piece
or jockey of lace at the top of the sleeve,
to give the sloping shoulder effect. The
elbow sleeves have the butterfly or half
hamlkerchief points ns a frill. In every
case the frilling to elbow sleeves is very
elaborate. If the sleeve Is long the deep
full puff begins above the elbow and ends
above the mitten cuff. This mitten cuff
is quite a feature of this season’s sleeve
and gives a more artistic outline than if
the fullness came nearer to the wrist.
The tassel idea is creeping into nil the
newest gowns. Whether they are danc
ing frocks, cloth snit costume:: or pic
turoqie fancy coats, the taaseis are
made of braid, of chenille, of siik. jewels
and even ribbon and chiffon,,,and not only
where you expect them, but where you
don’t expect them they are seen. It is
the same way with buttons. Tiny but
tons used in clusters form the trimming
for many of the new elaborate tailor
made gowns and big buttons, especially
the pearl and ivory buttons, are niacn
seen.
Most of the spring coat* are loose and
the smartest are of white broadcloth ami
lace, of pongees and of cluny or some
other heavy lace, made up over siik
linings. The pongee coats are richly
braided with silk b>aids of the sain
color, most of them somewhat wile and
put on in bowknot and other fancy, ir
regular designs. The sleeves are cut in
the prettiest wide ends and trimmed in
side and out, whiie some are gathered
into a, deep, flaring cuff and others Into
the Faquin model. Pongee eoau are also
embroidered and trimmed with applica
tions of lace, either in white or ecru
tint* and invariably of the heavy quali
ties.
fTHEWmCIY
ONE HUNDRED YEARS AGO.
Dr. Waterhouse announced his plan
to exterminate smallpox iu the United
States by a general vaccination, "some
what similar to that now commencing iu
London.”
Plans for the first theater at Wash
ington, 1). C., were announced, SIO,OOO
stock having been subscribed in other
cities toward the enterprise.
The treaty for the purchase of Louis
iana territory was signed at Paris by
James Monroe.
News was received that the Spanish
frigate Juneau, bound from l’orto ltico
to Cadiz, had foundered at sea with all
but seven of the 400 persons ou beard
and SIOO,OOO in specie.
fifty years ago.
Four hundred passengers and $2,300,-
000 in gold dust reached New York by
ship from California.
Ex-President Martin Van Karen nml
son sailed for Europe after being escort
ed to the New York steamship pier by
Benjamin Butler and other statesmen of
the day.
FORTY YEARS AGO.
The War Department at Washington
announced that it would enlist 20,0 H)
disabled and discharged soldiers for gar
rison duty.
A Texan legion was captured at day
break near Franklin, Teuu., by Goa.
Gordon Granger’s cavalry.
Col. Henry L. Scott, son-in-law of Gen.
Winfield Scott, was accused of being in
correspondence with the Confederate
agents at Paris, where he had gone ou
his retirement from the army.
Chicago negro citizens hold a mass
meeting at Quinn Chapel and pledged
their “lives and honor” to the defense
of the Union.
George Dodge of Hamilton, Ohio, was
sentenced to four months at hard labor
for expressing sympathy with the Con
federates.
Gen. Hooker's army crossed the Rap
pahannock river near Fredericksburg,
Yn., and began what was predicted to
be a decisive campaign.
Ex-President James Buchanan was
publicly cursed by Union soldiers while
ou a train near Lancaster, Pa.
A general fast and prayer service for
the success of the Union army was ob
served in the United States.
Ex-Gov. Matteson’s estate, Including
107 acres near Chicago, was sold at
Springfield for $300,000 to reimburse the
State of Illinois for bonds which the
Governor had purloined.
Brig. Gen. Asboth ordered the arrest
of all persons at Cairo, 111., and vicinity
who expressed sympathy for the Con
federates, and their imprisonment In Co
lumbus (Ivy.) jail.
Gen. Fremont urged the employment
of all slaves, as fast as they were freed,
in the construction of the Pacific Rail
road.
Twenty-five thousand negroes were re
ported to have enrolled themselves in(
the Union nriny twenty-four hours after
an appeal by Gen. Thomas.
Jay Cooke & Cos. offered to loan the
United States government $2,000,000
daily for thirty days if the bonds could
be printed fast enough.
Over 30,000 pounds of Confederate
army bacon. 600 blankets, 200 bales of
cotton, meat, tents, and n locomotive and
train were burned near Murfreesboro,
Tonn., by Union soldiers under Gen, Rey
nolds.
The steamship Anglo-Saxon was
wrecked off Cape Race and nearly 300
persons were reported drowned.
Commissioner Dole of the District of
Columbia offered to enlist a brigade of
negroes if the United States government
would guarantee them equal protection
with white troops.
Gen. Burnside issued n proclamation
nt Cincinnati warning citizens not to
interfere with the recovery of hundreds
of runaway slaves who were in jail nt
Lexington. Frnnkfort and Louisville.
Gen. Marmnduke’s advance through
Missouri was repulsed by Union troops
nt Cnpe Girardeau, and Gen. McNeil
was reported in hot pursuit.
THIRTY YKARS AOO.
Jay Gould, Henry N. Smith nnd Alden
R. Stock well were charged with corner
ing $43,000,000 in cash loan# at New
York and extorting high interest rate*
to depress stock prices.
An expedition of twenty-nine com
panies of United States infantry, an ar
tillery detachment nnd ■ venty-six scouts
was organized at Washington to protect
surveyors laying out the Northern Pa
cific Railroad line from a threatened In
dian attack.
Nineteen United States soldiers, in
cluding (’apt. Thomas and Lieut. Howe
of the Fourth artillery, were killed in a
buttle with Modoc Indian* in the South
west.
William Charles Macrendy, the famous
Eugilsh actor and central figure of the
Astor place (New Y’ork) riot, in which
twenty-two persons were killed, died ia
London, aged 80 yean*.
Jay Gould was said to be planning a
direct railroad and ferry line between
New York City, Baltimore, Washington
and Norfolk, by way of the New Jersey
Southern Railroad and the Narraganseit
Steamship Company’s line.
A convention was called in meet tt
the Astor House, New York, to start a
national movement against railroad com
bines, subsidies and trade monopolies.
TWENTY YKARS AGO.
United States secret service agents
were reported attending the Irish Na
tional convention at Philadelphia be
cause of complaints by Great Britain
that Fenan dynamite plots were being
hatched in America.
One million acres of Mexican land
were said to have been bought by Bis
marck for German colonization, while
i,ooo.o*X> acres more were being nego
tiated for.
TEN YEARS AGO.
Secretary of the Treasury Carlisle ap
pealed to New York bankers for a $50.-
000.090 gold loan at 3 per cent to re
plenish the $100,000,000 reserve.
Erastus Witnan, New York millionaire,
failed with $1,000,000 estimated liabili
ties.
The great Columbian naval review was
held at New York with the warships of
all nations participating.
William Townsend was arrested in
London for a supposed attempt to as
sassinate Gladstone.
The Philadelphia liberty bell reached
Chicago by special train and was receiv
ed by a citizens’ delegation and a display
of fireworks.
The Duke of Veragua. a lineal de
scendant of Christopher Columbus,
reached Chicago for the Worlds Fair
opening.

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