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A4 4'* K'» V ARIS, Sept. "If —Balloon par ties are all the rage here at the gay capital, and we go "up In the air" with the greatest jlonchalance, quite as if it were the Usual means of locomotion. For the, foment the automobile has ceased to fcp the excitement of our lives, and an Invitation to motor out to dinner at ..aone of the many restaurants near Paris is hot as smart as a "bid" to tttke a trip in an airship. In these days Of ballooning and aeroplaning the ttwne of the two famous brothers ikontgolfter is frequently mentioned. Jit school we were taught that these thers were the inventors of the bal ft, but now we are told on the high authority that the Invention is duo not fo the Montgolfiers, but to a Bra zilian called Gusmao. We are even rtr~ luctantly forced to admit that this statement is correct, and as Gusmao I 'J!!?111 hence*orth take the p\pce of the 'iHwo great Annecy paper manufactur ers a few words relative to the Bra zilian gentleman's career may prove Interesting. .* ^Brought up by the Jesuits, he cam* Europe in 1«85. John V. of Por tugal appointed him almoner at his court, but the youth, of an inventive temperament, devoted his leisure hours to constructing a flying machine, no more and no less than have the MM. Wright, Farman and Von Zeppelin. In 1|09 he informed his royal master that til had constructed a machine capable Of traveling through the air, and the ttionarch, who felt interested in the youth, not only patented the discovery, b&t allowed him a pension. On Aug.15 of the same year Gusmao made his first public attempt to "fly." Thoii-" sands of people, among them members of the royal family, had come to wit* nfess the performance, which tookfc place over the Casa de India, in Lis bon The balloon rose slowly and, having floated for awhile gracefully in tljle air, knocked against one of the cornices of the Casa and fell heavily to the ground. But this mishap did not prevent the crowd from being Ifeeply impressed by what they had witnessed. If, however, Senor Gusmao hid reckoned upon being cheered ha wAs much mistaken The spectators crossed themselves devoutly, and the WQxt day when he showed himself in tyfe streets everybody avoided him, and the little boys pelted him with stones. The king therefore advised his pro toge to discontinue his experiments, which explains the fact that at the tfme few persons in Europe knew any tiling about the invention In 1724 ho died penniless in one of the hospitals of Toledo. Fifty-eight years later the balloon of the brothers Montgolfler, i^ich was the exact reproduction of tl(at of Gusmao, floated over the city ot Avignon. Now, having aired all my knowledge concerning the history of tlte balloon, you will probably be more Interested in hearing of the wonders I* millinery as set forth by the artists who make headgear a specialty. Favorite Hats of the Hour. There is no disputing the fact that tNfoad brimmed hats are to enjoy a complete triumph in the winter. The beet milliners of the Rue de :a Paix have sent out their advanced models, and all of them are broad and flat of brim and very low in the crown. In very truth the favorite hat of the hour Is almost exactly the shape of the old world tuscan "flop," the only difference being that the big hats of today are lightly wired so that they retain their shape. They are either entirely flat HREE S pleee* cults the proper thing for the" street this season. course In the morning on# puts on the tailor made with the plain coat and the stiff shirt waist, but In the afternoon something more dressy is required./ Long dresses are out of the question SOCIETY WOMAN LEADER OF NEW FAD. tr ... Mrs. Owen D? Evan a graduate of Radcllffe, recently won the prize of $100 ottered for the best original essuj by the women's auxiliary of the New York ClvU Service Reform association. in the brim, wider at the sides than in the front and back, or they are of a uniform width all round, with a dis tinct dip back and front. It is inter esting to know that hats of this order are to be worn with tailored suits that are not too severe in outline as well as with afternoon costumes. With such chapeaux the hair must be dress ed very full at the sides and back and low on the top of the head. Many co quettish little curls are required to fill out the space under the curved brim, and the whole effect is exceedingly, pic turesque. In fact, all along the line of dress the woman of today is not a fashion, plate she is a picture, and it is not im possible that her whole attire may have been copied, so far as modern exigencies and tastes permit, from a painting of Jong ago. Another hat, which is signed Lewis, is a huge affair tightly covered with cloth of silver of a greenish blue hue. A sable skin en circles the very low, broad crown, and topping it Is a panache of bedraggled ostrich feathers that look as if they were recuperating from a severe ill ness. This convalescent aspect is a 9* the up to. d^te ostflch for street wear they are used only for teas, formal calls, receptions and the like, and then they are made so long that walking in them is an art. The well dressed woman has a cloth gown which just esoapes the ground, and over it she wears a three-quarter cut away coat to match. This gown is made on the new princess model, with Reginald C. Vanderbilt, one of the prime favorites in New York. Mia shoe tops and an enormous hat planted social circles has developed a remarkable liking for the French bull-j on the back part of her head, and dog and has established a large kennel of these rare canines Mrs. Vandorbilt has won the chief prizes at the recent dtg shows in this country and is de termined t» make the breed popular. FROM MANY SOURCES. the Association of Tli* contest was open to members of1 M* tight sleeves that fasten from the College Alumna^ of the State of New York. Mrs. Evans' essay deals with the "Civil Service Conditions In Buffalo |t will not be unusual this winter to plume. It is a ghost of its alert erst while buoyant self and is to be recog nized only #in the pretty quirls and graceful little plumules at the ends of the feather—a kind of, aftermath of the old time plume. For the really severe morning tailor, mades the round semi-cloche is the more appropriate shape, and in the new development it is nearly always made with a low, broad crown. Th# reign of the'cavalier hat, that turned up abruptly at one side, was short as it was brilliant, and this fall the shape has entirely disappeared from the world of fashion. It is a little early to say what will and will not be approved in winter millinery, but it seems cer tain that very large and wide toquaf will again be in favor and draped three cornered or oval turbans, and there If a small hat on English walking linei that is very good style. The toques will be worn by elderly women. Silk of a heavy ottoman variety and satin are much employed fabrics for hat coverings, and taupe felts of exquisite softness and silkiness are very charm ing creations. A taupe felt at ear lier s is a model in a huge sailor shape. An irregular double row of feather ft i .. ... 1 -inar-LI and "Philosophy J.n on the a short waisted effect, cut low to show a thin net guimpe, which has tight fit ting sleeves reaching well over the knuckles, 't'he bodice of the gown Is trimmed with stitched strappings or hand embroidery. The coat fastens with one or at the most two but tons, and It is extremely cutaway. The hips are fitted as tightly as possible. The new hats to go with these street gowns suggest the Charlotte Corday effect, with a high crown encircled by a scarf of silk or satin having plaited edges. This scarf ends at the left side in a large plaited rosette, with two pointed ends, which lie fl&t oil the hat. A Smart Hat. Nothing is smarter for morning wear than a hat of black bengaline trim med with the same material and lined with a contrasting shade. Moss green hats trimmed with silver gray are also another very smart novelty. 't'hat peculiar bright apple green Is now in fashion again, and it is par ticularly good in empire satin evening gowns trimmed with gold thread em broidery. This shade, while it is try ing to the skin in the daytime, has Just the opposite effect in artificial light. For the matter of that, even a dark woman could wear It if she followed the lj!f almost universal custom of treat lng her skin to an evening com plexion composed of liquid white covered with pure, white pow der. Do not be shoc-ked, mes dames. This sort of thing is done by nine out of ten women whom you admire, thinking they A hort girl never faiU have such daz- choo*fa Ur» tol' zling fair skins. Tours might look even better if ypu treated it in that way. I'ih happy to say that the skirts of tailor mades have come down a bit. I'm sure there was never anything picturesque in the sight of a middle i aged woman with her skirts up to her that's the sort of thing you saw all the time last winter in the streets of New York, y THE FARGO FORUM ANrt DAILY REPUBLICAN, SATURDAY EVENING, OCTOBER 3, 1966. u- madame, and you will present a. smart, harmonious effect Instead of looking like a hat on legs or an animated neck ruff. I remember last winter a friend, a charming little blond, bought herself a new set of furs. And what do you suppose she picked out? A very wide stole of black lynx, reaching clear down to her feet, and an enormous pil low muff. Later she added to this a big toque of the same fur. When her small face peeped out from under this, framed in the masses of fur around her neck, she reminded one of a email, shaggy animal and all suggestion of figure and style had disappeared. Sometimes I think the small woman must be proportion bOML Ths Human Mollusc. There is a play here in's"ew York called "The Mollusc," which every wo man ought to see. Every family has at least one mollusc in it, and the sooner that person is unveiied in her true character the better for the family. halnlAna aL.. it .- very top of tho arm to the' wrist. The back often gives great relief. A siml style will be carried out in smart coats I lar one under the knees is very restful and in sheer afternoon or evening too. house frocks. Convex hand mirrors of pocket size An Invalid who has to lie in bed some are the latest aid to the motorist or time often suffers from backache. A traveler by less luxurious means and ^ny roil pillow or even a soft roll of these small affairs enable the holder material placed under the small of the to see if the hat and hair are disar helplew. They cru.h th. ,.v«, of 1 y S .- y v V .'FBATJ VRR.S AND FURBEIXiWS FROM PARIS $ "mowjcAsr or/urn. wings are placed at the right side.'1 The brim rolls up a trifle at the left, obviating in a slight degree the other wise mushroom tendency. Indeed, all the hats are stunning this year, and it is a matter of individual selection. Apropos of hats, I overheard a I would like to give a word of ad vice to the short woman, "Go easy on the ruff and neck ruches." There are several sizes of these meant to cor respond in proportion to the woman who wears them, and I've noticed that the short girl never fails to choose the largest and most extreme pattern. Likewise this summer she wore the largest "Merry Widow" and the widest striped effects. Think of yourself in proportion to what you buy, my dear Have you a mollusc in your family iHHHHIii? 1" You call on one of these women, who happens to be a schoolteacher, and the conversation from first to last is on the subject of education. You can like it or npt—that is all she wants to talk about, and you can either listen or go away. Musical people are perhaps the worst offenders. I have a friend who will discuss flat sonatas when the soup is burning, the children are screaming, and her visitor doesn't know one note from another. 8ht reminded on, of 0 REPUBLTOAN. RATTTT?r»AV F.VTI5lffTVfl AffPrtRTO ««M' '"™v: •••'.»'•" W r5""'••** i I •'P w*d shaded, friend remark yesterday, nBM dldn't»»of*omen entertain the delusion tfeac have to bo,ther about new hats these i glorious autumn days would be dreams of bliss." Isn't it strange how much sat- i isfaction some women get out of trou ble? It is such a fine excuse for, thinking about themselves, also for making people think about them. Lots around them just as slowly, but surely, by these methods as if they were out and out tyrants. More than that, while they are working mischief they even get coddled and pitied for their helplessness by those who don't see through their little game. Have you a mollusc in your family? I have no patience with either a wo man or a man who talk# "shop" all the time. I take that back in a certain degree. Sometimes the man who talks shop, poor fellow, has worked so hard all his days that he has had no time for edu cation, books, music and that sort of thing. But the woman who talks shop is usually another type. She is the highly educated egoist who thinks only of herself and what 9he can do. The rest of the world doesn't count, because she is not interested In it. Actresses, of course, live for the stage. When they have a night off they go to the theater to see some one else act. They Simply can't get away the small, Bham mimal. fh A human mollusc Is one who lives by leaning on the strength of others. She-Mt Is usually a woman—never does a thing she can get some one else to do, and she becomes so after awhile she even believes she has accomplish ed the work others have been made to do. Some molluscs are invalids, others are merely lazy tyrants they are all of them sweetly amiable and, get their way by being gentle and epigrams each wornlm delivered f1 re ft Single "Breath Mode and Other Matters ,thea jargon. What narrow world it all is! Why can't wo men be well balanced and not go to extremes on so many propositions? Sometimes Forget Ourselves. Surely if we want to be popular and have lots of friends we must learn to enter into their lives and stop think ing of ourselves and our own aims all the time. Some Frenchman, I think it was, made the remark that in Ameri ca conversation was a lost art. In the salons, he said, instead of wit and little ranged at a glance, the slightly convex surface reflecting the entire head in miniature. With a repousse silver back and handle they cost Jl. "I never, never can get the egg to stay put when I want to make poach ed eggs for somtj one sick," sighed an amateur cook, and the wise woman & trouble makes thfcm interesting the deeper the trouble the more they con sider it removes them from the com mon herd. And it certainly does. The common herd takes care of that. I had a dreadful trouble myself about a i the short waisted. high girdled frocks, hat at the early age of three. I can1 CATHERINE TALBOT. sometimes she was allowed to furnish what she had to say, but more often she was interrupted by some other woman who wanted to tell about her self and was afraid if she didn't hurry She Wouldn't get it all in. A rharming picture truly! But it isn't far from true. forgot to tell vo« something* ftt the ft- is prominent on the Liberal side. i Mrs. Hertha Ayrton has discovered the cause of certain defects in naval searchlights and devised a remedy remember now the passion of rage an# Injustice that seized me when my oldc* sister was carried into the nurserf wearing my best bonnet. I can feg that blinding desolation of lmpotenc^ that wonder as to why such thingl should happen. had done nothir£ and they had taken my bonnet frorfe the drawer and decked my sister in it. A moment before I had been happjr playing with my bricks then nurse entered, pnd I recognized the pretty bonnet. Mr sister had no right to it, yet I had no -one to stand up for m% No one thougnt my trouble matte rett I tried to pull my own bormet fror^ her head and found myself being car ried kicking from the room in dis grace. I in disgrace—I a martyr, the rightful owner of the bonnet! Now, there was a real trouble brought about by no fault of mine. But as I was only three I was not allowed to brood over it. If it had occurred now. sym pathetic friends would have helped m# to keep unhappy about It for yeATS. The Fashionable Pslt*. To talk of pelts, judging from the display of furs seen in the shops wo are going to have another season of gloomy furs. Black or dark brown pelts are in the lead. Sable, as usual, is first choice, with mink as a strong second, but when these sktns are be yond one's means lynx and fox are two fine standby* that serve admirably. Pointed fox, however, Is never a means to an economic end, for It is one of the most exquisite and expensive of furs. The set Illustrated is a model of the latest design. In the light furs chin chilla is always one of the temptations, and ermine without the tails will bo worn for "dress up" occasions. As to lines, the new stoles are shaped more to the back and shoulders, and in coats the short waisted and long skirted ef fects are most favored. As I said last week, the directoire and empire ideas hold good in the realm of furs, and many are the smart trimmings of braid, lace and buttons that will adorn the garments of the winter. Caracal coats of three-eighths lengths are trim med with braid and fllet soutache, and fastenings are arranged under choux of liberty silk. In connection with soutache one of the leading trimmings of the winter will be the mixture of soutache braid ings with raised embroideries In self colored silks. When I speak of fine soutache I mean a tiny braid very lit tle thicker than a coarse thread, and when it is arranged in an elaborate pattern It is most effective. With the aid of a good design braidings and embroideries can be accomplished at small cost. Among the latest trim mings to be bought in the shops are handsome embroidered effects on lace done in rich color schemes. The di rectoire and empire boleros, with or without girdles, are favorites with de signers, and another pretty variation is a harness-like piece of corsage adornment cut low and square in the neck that extends Just below the waist line, held by straps over the shoulders and fastened in the back. The ma terials employed in carrying out these designs are generally a coarse net or lace heavily embroidered, sometimes in gold and pearls, sometimes In Jet or in colored bugles and beads in gleaming iridescent colors and in silks and metal threads. These garnitures will be found useful for the making over of last year's gowns, as well as for the adornment of this season's wardrobe. The pretty little accessories are adapt ed especially for the f-mbellishment of fashion line which you will be glad to hear. The newest and most fashion able dressy waist is washable and simplicity itself. It is made of net trimmed with bands of heavy lace and tucked long sleeves. It is absolutely unlined and meant to be worn over a separate white china silk corret cover. New Yorfc, KA.TB LIDS. PX-%% BEAUTIFUL WIFE OF BRITISH HOME SECRETARY, f: Tifrs. Herbert Gladstone, wife of the British home secretary, is a membw *1amo"8 family, Tory leaders for generations, while her husband Mrs. Gladstone has since her marriage be- to the cause. suggested that all that was necessary' She conducted the investigation by re was to set the hot water to whirling quest of the British government. Sh* by means of a spoon and then to care fully drop the egg into the middle of the maelstrom. is said to be the only woman member of the Institute of Electrical Engineers. The shops are selling the dir-ctolre sash in soft liberty satin with cro clu*t-d silk slide and silk tassel« ThejT are three yards long, in ail colon*. searcniigms and devised a remedy, are three yards long, in ail color*. W- 'Jfr $ fit l::4 i-"