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TULSA DAILY WORLD, SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 1917 .0 V.. i h yiiiT jCopjrUhl. till, fcjf Tin McClur Ntiirr Sylidiruut fljV i . - Vft AUTUMN FASHIONS, SHOWING THE LINES, COLORS AND FABRICS Toiret Reopens His House and Shows Many Exquisite Models Lanvin Is Slavic Worth Still Uses Trains and Rhinestones, and Jenny Exploits Her Algerian Skirt, as Usual Beer Makes Skirts Exceedingly Short and Narrow, and Drecoll Takes to the Direc toire Feriod for Inspiration. Evening Gowns That Suggest the Directoire This U a vastly exrltinff time In the fashion roue. It Ih not alono exeltins because women want new clothes for a new season, hut for tn" more Important reason that commerce in this country Ih entirely entanuled in the industry of clothes. A question as to what will he worn is mippoHiMl to concern Itself with woman's vanity. Never was there such a foolish conclusion. The question of what will he worn is inextricably mixed up with the lives of mlllfons of industrial workers in this country, and upon Its Judicious adjustment Ue jiend the bread anil butter, the happi ness and the ubllity to he free from nervous depression of thousands of men too old or too youni? to fiKht und thousands of women who have not the leisure to offer their services to war relief. it is a curious thing thart the woman who wants to know, even thru nn assumed Indifference, whether her coat and skirt nre In fashion, should bo so densely Ignorant of the vMt ramifications of fashions Into the in normose recesses of American life. There are hundreds of women who insist that they take no Interest in clothes, yet they ko quite wildly en thusiastic over other subjects relating to domestic economy which are not one-fifth as important to the success of this part of the world. When one hears these women talk, one Is lin " pelled toward a vehement recital of tlpe links In this industry of clothes, which Join together nearly all the women workers of the county. What a woman shall wear is prob ably not as Important as what a woman shall make, but the two are parts of the circle, and both rise to the level of lnduscial Vmpoltance which is occupied by branches of business with hiKher sounding names and which are interpreted by some as being vastly superior to the question of style. . What I'urls Han Pone). It, therefore, behooves a woman who feels that the cut of a gown Is merely an appeal to one's vanity to regard the situation of fashions, espe cially at this time of the year, quits as seriously as what one shall eat, what one shall invest extra money in, and how one shall buy coal. No one laughs at fashions In Paris. No one takes them lightly. Rveryone regards them as a supreme branch of French industry that brings welfare to millions. Each artist takes his or her designs for new clothes under seri ous consideration, and the state ac cords them the merit or demerit that they deserve. Now, what have these great de signers done for America this season? That Is the leadintr question among the shopkeepers, the dressmakers, the millions of women workers in the in dustry of clothes, the mills, the man ufacturers, the Importers and the ex porters. We know that the styles for tho autumn have been settled, but the masses do not -Otnow what each de signers has done and what each great , 1 1 jjj ''' At the left la a dinner frock of pink and malines lace. The silk coat has a peplum that turn Into pockets, and there are lace sleeves. The skjrt of lace hangs in ragged points at the ankles. At the right the gown Is of pale lilac taffeta, embroidered on the lower sleeves in pale green, yellow and pink. The bodice Is finished with a loose band of colored beads and fastened with necklace of purple velvet ribbon. ' fashion establishment has sponsored. To 1egin with, l'aul I'olret has again opened his house, to show mod els. That interesting little sign that went up over his house on the Avenue d'Antin, which was also placed on many other doors, saying that the place would be closed until the end of the war, has been taken down. ! France may have foreseen a long war, but her people felt that things would come to a crisis before the fourth year broke. 1'oiret is always important, there fore, what he shows is of Interest. To J begin- with, ho features the waistline .which Is dropped below the normal, in the oriental manner. There i "ery L A S USUAL, you will find this store in ex traordinary preparation to fit your boys out for school. From the hat or cap down to the shoes you will find here everything the boy wants and as usual, the bejst for the price. Boy's Norfolk Suits With Two Pairs Knicks 1TI7E are justly proud of our great showing of boys' Norfolk suits. Dependable fabrics, smart models, thoroughly tailored. Real cloths for real boys. Mostly with two pairs of Knicks, $5 to $20. Boys' Knee Pants Boys' Stockings Boys' Underwear Boys' Long Wear Shoes $3 JO, $4, $JJ0 to $6 BOYS' solid. leather shoes in black and tan, button and lace,' English and plain styles. The best boys' shoes sold in Tulsa; $3.50 to $6. Boy8 Shirts and Waists Kaynee Boys' Waists and Shirts; fast colors; best made at 65c to $1.50. Boys' Hats Boys' Caps Boys' Sweaters I little that would ever appeal to I'olret In the first and second empire fash ions. He is strongly barbaric In what he dues. He has a genius for fabrics. He knows the art of weaving and dye ! Ing better than most nrtists in I'arls do, and he has special places that Work out his ideas. Therefore, lie has been able to make frocks In the new , kind of plush which will be very hard to get In this country, but which will .be desired because It has been fea tured by a few of tho great French dressmakers. The fabric Is difficult to describe, because It owes everything j to its manner of weaving. I I'olret uses nn unusual amour.t of black and white and brings back ; quantities of black and white Jet lav ishly arranged on frocks with a ! Slavic or oriental tendency. 'His evening gowns feature .the high J line at the neck, which he has always sponsored. His wife, a beautiful wom an who wore his clothes better than anyone else, always adopted tho eve ning gown which showed only two or more inches of the neck and dropped In a flexible line to a low belt. I'olret will never give up the skirt that suggests Turkish trousers. It Is ilmost as much a symbol of his work as the flat, red rose that he used In his Martino houge decorations. He does not object to the separate bodice of velvet that forms part of the eve ning gown, altho he has watched a good many other dressmnkers use It ilnce he invented It nearly half a doien years ago. It Is probable that this separate evening bodice will form a feature of costumery in America after October. Ijtnvln Is Slavic. There have been so many things In common between l'aul I'olret and Jeanne Itnvin for so many years that they are related or that the houses are commercially connected. The per sonalities of these two designers In France are as different as can be, even beyond the fact that one is a woman and one is a man. Therefore, It is not surprising that while i'olret clings to the sumpiuoua effects of an exotic past, Lanvin also continues to hammer upon the anvil of Hlavlc and Russian fashions. She has gone to Serbia and Rou mania for inspiration and probably draws a color, a line or a suggestion from the Cossacks of central Russia. In direct contrast to these short, bril liant Hlavlc clothes, she has put out a most dignified evening gown. The skirt Is quite long, but without a train, and the belt Is nearly over the hip line. The top part of the skirt has the tightness of the days of the renais sance, and Judging by the many things that Lanvin Is doing, as well as other French dressmakers, It looks as tho the loose blouse In any form will soon belong to a day that Is done. This Is not startling news to the American woman, because the smartly dressed young women have been adopting the tight bodice and the long, tight sleeves In their summer clothes, even making them of giut; ham and especially of Jersey cloth. 1-ativin also exploits the large waist coat in various materials, to he worn under a coat suit and to serve as a blouse ur Jerkin when the coat Is re moved. The hats she produces with these gowns are often small of brim. She clings to th') Russian effect, hut she has Introduced a small edition of the continental worn by ljilayctle and Washington. Like I'oirot, she also uses quantities of brilliant black and white Jet, highly polished ami facetted. The Slavic gowns have wide skirts. The skirts in coat suits are less than two yards wide. I.Ike Uoeuillet, l.an vln slashes a good many of her coats and tunics from the waist to the hem. A novelty suit has a brown velvet skirt, the Jacket of worsted, closely i knitted and seemingly quite solid and strong. j It was I.anvln who first put out the quilted satin pockets on one-piece frocks. They were not successful In ; this country, altho we were a nation i of qui I tors. This season she will intro- I tluce evening wraps made entirely of ; quilted satin, und she will strengthen the effect by adding capes of deep colored peltry. Worth t'oiitinncs Trains. Altho several of the lending French designers have contributed to the de mand for conservation of material by eliminating trains, Worth continues to I use these appendages to evening gowns. One would feel that Worth was not himself if he abolished i rhlnestones or trains, and it makes' one feel quite safo that he has not ' done so. Mis bodices are not only covered ' with"rlilnestones, but glisten with cut Jet in different colors. .Ho uses dark1 blue undhelge for tho evening, built! In satin and velvet. Ills trains are' sometimes pointed, which is a trick j that Worth has usually left to Cillot. ! Like I'olret, he uses the low waist- ' line, but no matter how heavy his ' skirts, tho bodices aro transparent, , which Is not in sympathy with 1'oiret ! at all. He tries 01K a bit of first emplro j here and there, anil ho has taken up I that wonderful hydrangea blue that ("allot madi) so famous the summer I before the war. ; The really old fashion In Worth's! e-xhibtion Is the skirt which has its i hem turned under and gathered to ! the lining. Jenny has hammered un I this Hkirt for four years. Cheruit in- ! slstod upon it ns far back as seven I years ago; and 1'oiret has used It ! since, the opening of his house. Now mat worth is using It, it looks as I tho It has been, elevated to a dignified rank. Worth, like all the other design ers, uses a great quantity of duvetyn and velour, and he emphasizes pur ple and a brilliant royul shade of ruby. Jenny's Oriental Skirt, I'nssibly no one expected the house of Jenny to omit her Algerian skirt, as some call It, with Its slight fullness at the waistline ami Its tuuked-under hem which gives the appearance of. oriental trousers. Jenny likes this skirt, she f.'nds hundreds of women who will wear it, and altho the men lime strong aversion to It and criti cise tho women of their family who adopt It, It goes on being In fashion. Greater designers in I'arls than Jenny tried to impose this skirt upon the American public, but they wero not successful. When, however, this little wren-like designer suys that this kind of skirt Is the correct one to wear tho American women take it up without argument, for Jenny has a strange and persuasive effect upon what is called in America the large and respectable middle class. I!o well assured, however, that her In fluence does not rest there; but It Is curious how strongly it exists there. And here is another strange thing that Jenny has done In her ivcw ex ihltion. Ke has gone against the other designers and made a bodice that Is almost as low im thosu that ('allot exploits. Will the entirely m Fpectablo middle class care for such gowns during wartime? Well, If they get a bit excited over this departure Into tho extreme by their best-beloved designer, probably they will he roine more upset over the knowledge that Jenny not only introduces the oriental skirt with Its trousered hem, but puts fulj trousers under trans parent Fklrts, making ono look even more oriental. It is. of couiHt, Algiers and not Constantinople from which these I'rench designers draw their inspira tion. I'eriwh the thot that Turkey can eer again receive a pleas. ml greeting from France! She may have been the sick man of F.ur pe tor de cades, but she is now the deud man of Km ope to Fiance, However, there are quite enough oriental suggestions to bo found In. the Trench colonies, and enough' color and line and originality in those Algerian cafes iilong the blue ocean, where sit the gayly garbed French H.ihl lers. Jenny also uses the exceedingly high fur collar on ta hired suits, anil the trench mufflers and Apache cravats as substitutes for collars. , there Is another novelty that this house has brought coit. It was told In tbene columns a few weeks ago, but it is still new enough to empha. i.'.". It Is the one-piece frock nuulo y Joining a Jacket and a skirt slight ly below the waistline. Jenny also Introduces w alstr.iu ts, big, wide, loosu waistcoats that are twin sisteis to coots. Ilrcr's Narrow Skills. There has never In en any disposi tion on the part of the house of Ueei to l'oi;then skirts, nnd this year he malies them shot t'-r than ever ami exceedingly narrow. He evidently believes in conservation of material. When he exploits evening gowns he coincides with Worth. Lanvin, I ucet and lioeulllet in introducing the in step length. Kvldcntly we're not to dance around the world this next sea. on In skirts that half way between the knees and ankles. For Monday Only SALE OF NEW FALL SUITS For Monday's selling only, we are placing orr sale one lot of beautiful serge and poplin fall suits, handsomely trimmed and lined with satin and all colors; sizes from 16 to 44. We could easily get $30 for any suit in this lot, but we want the women of Tulsa to get the Advance Shop habit, so we are plac ing these suits on sale, Mon day only, at the ridiculously low price of $ 19 .75 A fine line of new fall dresses are embraced in this line; colors black, blue, tan, burgundy, brown, plum, green and other seasonable shades. Sizes from 16 to 44. These dresses are easily worth $25; for Mon day's selling only they go at tP-I-t) We have a full line of fall coats for your inspection in broadcloths, velours, kerseys, chinchillas, sealette, plush and velvet, fur-trimmed and plain. Be sure and examine these coats as to price, material and workmanship before buying elsewhere. NWY0im CHICAGO TUUJV . WEST THIRD 5T. GROUNDTLOOR ---pOniNJ'ON ARCADE Henry Kendall College I TULSA, OKLAHOMA The Kendafl College Conservatory of Music opened for its tenth year on Tuesday, September 11. All departments i'ully organized. The new building for the Piano Department is completed and in use. The Faculty has been strengthened by the addition of Mr. Adolph Kramer, for the past two years with Emporia College, and for three years previous a student of the Koyal Conservatory of Music, IVrlin. Mr. Kramer will teach the violin and all other . orchestral instruments, and will organize a large College Orchestra. .John Knowlcs Weaver and his assistant, Miss Flo North, are working again in the Piano and Pipe Organ Department. Robert Itoicc Oarson, with his assistants in the Voice Department, are ar ranging their classes and the Conservatory is launched on its best year? All other departments are running and the Faculty at work. Kendall is as sured a good year. For information on all departments, call Phone 2GG5, or better still, come out to Henry Kendall College