Tulsa daily world. [volume], June 02, 1918, FINAL EDITION, Society Section, Page 7, Image 31

About Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919

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TULSA DAILY WORLD, SUNDAY, JUNE 2, 1019.
CHILDREN'S CLOTHES ARE RETURNING TO FRILLS
Butterflies and Rosebuds Are Now Used For Embroideries
Organdy Very Lavishly Used
i
i
j Skirts Worn a Trifle Longer
V
O not take the fashion of children's clothe for granted. Do
when the "Ladles from Hell" have made the costume the cause of wild
not fill Into the error of going on the old methods. There admiration of every half-grown boy on two continents, the designers will
to .. much ebb and flow In the tide of Juvenile co.tumery1 not reinstate It. nor will chastened mothers request their boy. to wear It.
' ".". n,e m with the current. 80 that in itself is good evidence that we have wisely and, let us .ay,
in adult, so watch straws-and then go with the current.
ratterns can not be handed down from one child's ward
robo to another. What was worn last season Is usually
nlit of the oleture by the time the hew season begins.
Things were not always according to this schedulo of variation. For
centuries children were dressed alike. Glimpse backward over the por
trait that hang in our museums to prove this. The tortuou. clothe, that
were put on infants three centuries ago will most probably make the mod
ern woman, filled to the eyes as she is with the schedules of hygiene and
imitation, want to scream aloud at the misery that was Inflicted.
- Even the wooden sabots and long full skirt, of the small Dutch gtrl,
with her white rabbit stir, in the mother of the moment a violent feeling
of reform. We grieve far more, you know, for the discomfort of the young
than for the actual grief of the old.
As near to nudity as the law allows has been the modern Interpretation
of children's clothes, and we have felt that by hardening their legs and
arms through constant exposure in the formative years, we ar. handing
them a talisman against weakness and disease in the settled seasons of life,.
If a child bares her legs to all the cold now. she will not .uffer when
se must bare her shoulders lator on, was the comment of the first group
of mothers who started the fashion of no stockings on the young when this
century opened. And the scientist, of human life tell us that child mor
tality decrease, each year. Has the exposure trick succeeded, one won
ders? ;
Surelw, clothes ploy an Important role In the dramaef a child, life.
Outdoor, sleeping, correct postures at study, the removal of denoida, su
pervised play hours, the scientific development of will-power and self
control, are not greatly superior to the accepted processes of Juvenile
dressing.
The elimination of the garter that binds, the corset that restricts,
the skirt that hampers, the sleeves that cover, the shoe that pinches, has
aided the doctor and the teacher. .
True, there was strong opposition to this method of dressing
Present j the first year, of its upward struggle to success. Flannel
Dnftger. skirts and over-warm underclothing had been the symbol, of
protective work. Starch was a part of cleanliness and added
to the comeliness of the young. But usage by the majority always wear,
thin the opposition of the minority, are bare knees were no more unusual
here than in the Highlands when this decade started.
It would have been absurd to compel from youngsters a measure of
discomfort that tho adult bad conlemntotfsly discarded. The calendar had
come to be regnrded as a parer that marked off the progress of days, but
not the procession of tho seasons. One did not put on thick clothes be
cause It was winter, nor omit peltry because It was summer. Why ask
children to endure what age could not tolerate?
Even during the orgy of near-nudity that prevailed in Juvenile clothes,
however, there was variation in fashion and the constant pressure of indi
vidual and capricious opinion. Nothing was permtted to remain In a
solid state. Fashion, were fluid, flowing thl. way and then that.
The chance of .uccessful caprice was .0 great and good that designers
,-r tm,nt mnA International fame essayed the building of Juvenile
Tfa Motnos. and found the field productive of actual wealth. And it Is to these
designers that we ow. the present danger.
This danger is that common sense and acquired wisdom, achieved
with great effort through the last two decades, after centuries of wrong
doing, may be .lipping through our grasp. The clothing of tiniest dimen
sions and absence of all ornamentation was too easy to turn out In the
se win groom, and .therefore there was too slight demand for the work of
those who were filled with genius. When the great house, threw their
weight into the scale for a wide variety of exquisite costumery, at high
prices, fer children, the people tentatively followed.
r So it is that the rompers and straight .Hp. of gingham and muslin
have competitors. Embroidery has risen to a place of power. Lace i
again admitted, after long banishment Such materials as satin and vel
vet, ermine and taffeta are no longer 'frowned upon as fashions for little
bodies.
Vanity has begun the tickling sensation of clothing one's" self for the
reason of attracting attention a principle that instigated the first clothing
worn by the female, of our race. Naturally, thia vanity, which springs
from the minds of the mothers and dressmakers, 1. received with delight
or me young, lor ever tnrougnout the progress of the race has youth
tried to ape age. The violent desire that Is handed down through cen
turies of children for tho pilfering of adult clothes, to place them In glee
on ineir own oDaies, is natures clearest proof of it.-
But It would be a terrible mistake to Indulge designers and children.
in this kind of upheaval. If there ever was in recent history a time for
simple doming, sureiy mat time is now. We who are older .must lean
to that expression of our acknowledgment that the times are drastic and
heavy laden with anxiety, and it might be well to suppress any too active
effort to change me juvenile clothes of the twentieth century backward
to those or me ornate ana frivolous eighteenth century.
Does your particular memory go back to the day. when to
j vui.it vi uresa a ooy child as a Highlander wa. to prove yourself In
Military, the fashion? The swagger of the. Gordon, was not even
omiuea irom tno' clothe, for small girls. Scotch bonnets
were as common among children as they are now among men.
Whether or not it brought the passionate and rebellious shame of
Pen rod, plaid kills were placed on boys whose face, burned with indigna
tion at the thought of wearing skirts and showing their knees. Rakish
bonnet, with a gay feather were perched over scowling brows, and only
the Lrfra raunueroy. 01 uie were pieasea with themselves. And now,
forever gotten over the desire for the foolishly pictorial in Juvenile clothes.
But It 1 not possible for the war to leave ail form, of dressing free
from its sinister influence.
It touches the clothe, for the young In a gentle way, and the way
is not objectionable. Middle youth, aa it is expressed at 17 and younger,
biosphere of the n,.w.-rv p.m ( the n,.'t.-n!h century and fits Into
the landscape i,N (in- t.)..tt ,.,.t 11, .-.,. , ,.
Tho feeling of v. n.n si .ni: ;, ....... .s,,.,-:,n,.,l spmt clothes that
has grown up .n ail m.1,i M..v ,.,., b ,,t n iiept,m In Palm
Umlch liujt 1'clTt ll:n y km, I , 1 V.,, u.,., ,lt I,.,f.,t,.M,.t.,l UollU-
vlllo and hospital-lik.. M.-ni.. t .!.,, w c h ive nw i.l.itio Hie phase: When
wo like anything wo no f..i- p u-.tli Hm ucnr am) violent reni Icskhonn of a
youthful spirit, and, prcst.,! ,, ,,f u kly. ThlH pn.mlses tobe
the history of tho ccawi lens mind ..f spun doihc.s that have been made
Demure Coquetry In Little GirVs Bonnet.
Little Girls. -SN 1
in qualntnesq Is achieved In this little girl version" of the Eton Jacket mode, nnd n smart color effort Is
dery that stands out boldly against the white silk Jersey. The narrow belt 1h of red patent leather, and the
(ly. Likewise of organdy, but this time elaborately embroidered, Ih the frock uhown next to the Eton de
t Is of black velvet, slit at each sido and fastened with ncnrl buttons.
' Tanntlne.. Mttinr thnn
gained by the red embroidery
Dlouse Is or wnite organny. ijkwim or organdy, Dut tills lime elaborately embroidered, Ih Hi
lgn. The straight Jacket Is of black velvet, slit at each sido and fastened with peurl buttons.
v-' . .
pal plnVrosobtud10W 8traW trlmmc1 with ribbon Jn the same Bhade and
finds the aylon'of France and Italy the most picturesque flclils from which
to draw a fashion here and there.
The oblong cap, the flowing cape with one ohd draped over the
shoulder, are neat and attractive fnohlons to uso up for the summer
season. An illusive kind of Bam lirown belt Is becoming a bit common,
but it too finds an abiding place on the coat of a slim little suit.
Now, however, that such a big majority of young women find that
public opinion permits them to wear breeches, cap and coat for war
relief work, they are less apt to use up the military idea. In the more
feminine costumes.
In children's clothe, there is little of the war that can be adopted.
but the plaid sashes from 'Scotland and Naples and Roms, the short
black coats, the multiple pockets, are evidences that war has thrown
Its shadow downward to the cradle. "
Hotti-nen Mm mitmpv nnA mM.II. ....... . , I, l
, . ,- -----........ tJ .ruin uinn in. n
Adopting me mass1 of children thai must be drojjsod well thru-
Fashions of Age. out tho hot season, and for these tho designers
have turned out enough fashions to supply the
demand of a continent of grownups. They smack of sophistication, some
of them, and are taken directly from tho clothes cf their elders.
There Is the surplice bodice, the Mart'na Washington collar which re
sembles a handkerchief, the patent-leather belt, the umbrella skirt, and
the slvort sleeves -whlch, after all, ape has merely pilfered from youth
this sprtrig.
There are still touches of an older war In the retention of the top
hat and cape coat In two colors, which was adopted from the dlrertoire
and the consulate, after tho designers could not forco thorn upon women
with any degree of success last winter.
The organdy frocks, which snrlng like mtiBhropms from Bar Harbor
to the Florida coast this year, are found to ho admirable for youth when It
Is parading itself In' the afternoon. It goes well on even the smallest
girl. It is chosen In color, as well as white, and now that colored rib
bon sashes axe revived by old and young, the organdy takes pa the at-
to do duty by girls between fourteen and twenty for nil other apparel
that has setved rnxii for a century or more.
Into tills clIsrunMioli tlie small children have no part, for their clothes
are always arranged for sporiivene' ; but even in tlie clothes of the
five-year-old there creeps the feeling t co.iiettery that Is trying to sup
plant the sweater, the loudly striped Kkirt and the shapeless hut.
When exquisite organdies arc used for small clothes, as for large
ones, the embroidery Is done on new line-, - that Is, new to this time in
clothes. There is a flight of pafdel-tlnted butterflies, n shower of green
leaves. Moorish nr -he. in old l ino and pink that might hate been sug-gesteL-iy
the! decorations for that eye-bewildi-ring Chn Chin Chow. A
prlmly-net row of rose buds may go around tho wnlst and skirt of
a white organdy frock, and a curving line of faint bluebirds may be
used as an adornment for tlie 1,1 pa. 'I 'bene, you miiHt admit, are departures
from Hie conventional ileMigns that have been readily adapted f,,r the
majority of young clothc-i for ilmnl. In thl mailer of embroidery
they have arranged for them a new school of handiwork. So far as th
season has gone, the embroidery done on frocks for women has been as
brilliantly barbaric as 1 antium.
liut none of this Slavic, Km-sian, Moorish, Chinese work makes its
appearance, on the child's cloth-!,, on them Is kept tho natural, not the
artificial. The designs aro taken from the simplest life In tho lundscapo,
and the things that are manifestly uprcHonUitivo of emotions are re
served for tt)"e who can carry them off.
It 4u n f....l ,1... . il
( ""i-i i"u c.uinoi him u) onserve, ir you have
UrOWn-i, P had orca.iion to study the recently produced clothes for
fashion In llttlo girls, that some of the styles borrowed fm-
Miniaiure. rather, sumpmed by the styles launched this spring
for mamma's clothes havo done rather better In the
Juvenile version than In tho adult. Whatever may be
the fate of tho Kton Jacket In grown-up costumery, true it Is that not one
: Woman In ten can wear It to advantage. One nee,l not l.ej.a student of
'anatomy B'Jls possess a vory kcn feeling for proportion ly know that it
Changeable Taffeta Sport Sets..
Rutm ennnlatlnv nf tiAt anil hmm ... W. -.t.-. . . ....
..,,. , unangeauie tarreta In
many combination, of color. The hat. have wide brim., that give the .ort
of .hade to the eye. that is welcome on the seashore or in the country
and the bags are big enough for a sock and the attached ball of yarn."
never, never will do for the woman with brnnd hips, and It never, never
will do for the woman with no hips at ail. l.lkt tho straight, untrlmmed
sailor hut that came In with It, It is uncompromising and unkind to th
avcragij woman, whereas It serves only to enhance the charm and grace
of tho woman who has a llttlo more than her share of radlnnt youth
fulness. Hut children are all youthful, ulid the question of hips somehow
doesn't enter Into th. tr clothes problem at all. In short, tho Eton Jacket
style goes very much better with them than with their mothet. or bl
sisters. Likewise the collar thnt Is always nart nf tb nletor. lth th.
l::ton Jacket the round about collar, that seem, to make double chin.
triple, and hides all Hie prettiest curve. In the grown woman', neck with
out concealing any of the ugly ones. It is eminently becoming on a llttl.
girl; in fact, one never knows what an entirely adorable .not 1. to be
found at the back of a little girl's neck until one has seen it In thl. Eton
collar.
There seem, to he a current opinion that it tr.kes a tall woman to
wear a cape to advantage. Terhaps that is so. But for all that the very
llttlo girl, with only a few feet of height to her credit, ran look very
pretty In the llttle-gtrl version of the capo. The cape that I. equal length
all around I. the model chosen for her, and to have It appear to best ad
vantage tho cape should be made to come slightly below tlie frock. Thl.
s decidedly smarter than having a little of the frof" appearing below
the cupe. ' '
The question of how long ft little girl', frock, should be cut i. one
not especially easy to answer thl. year. It all depend, on the kind of
picture you .re trying to paint It depends on the style of the frock 1
entirely. In gonoral, perbap. the very little girl wear, her skirts as .hort .
as ever. Whether thl. I. a phase of .conservation or merely a reflex
of adult fashions It would be hard to say. Perhaps th. little girl them
solves had something to do with the continuation Jn fashion of the short
skirt, for they really are infinitely more comfortable, a. any little girl
111 let you know. 1 - J
Hut for occasion, there are long skirts, too eklrts that are quite at,
long, proportionately, the the .klrt. worn by grown folk.. This you wilt
find In soipe of rhe picturesque Kate Greenaway costume., that ar rather ;
high of waist and .cant of .klrt. Th fichu and frgied elbow sleeve are
part of the picture, as are the poke hat and little mils of .Ilk. The fichu.
Idea, that ha. strangely enough, been so long in Coming for little girl., Is
very suitable, especially for the growing child, v whose well-filled little
bread-basket has a way of protruding rather ungracefully when .he wear.
a frock with a plain waist. Sometime, th fichu continue and form,
sash ends at the back. ,.
A variation of the fichu style of frock Is the frock made wrltb round
neck, short, puffed sleeve, and high gathered waist, in true empire fash
Ion. The skirt of this I. also fairly long and .cant It I. very daintily
developed in one of the shop. In white net with sleeve edged with half -inch
filet lac and two line of th filet lace about th high shirred
wal.tllna. . .
Cotton crepe Is a fabrlo that ha only recently mad it. way into
the realm of children', clothe., and th Idea of using It thus apparently
came from France, where thl. fabrlo was found to be well adapted to '
produce th rather "slinky" silhouette that 1 characteristic of om of th
most attractive of French children' dresses. A littl girl's empire dress,
recently designed by a dressmaker In Tarls, showed a rather long but
meager .klrt of white voile trimmed, only by three wide tuck. The .host
puffed sleeves were also of voile, while th short-wabrted bodice was of
rose-colored linen. The hat made to go with this was decidedly poke !
shape, with a white straw rim and a rose-colored crown of linen. . A
narrow black velvet ribbon banding the hat tied It under th chin and
extended In long and quaint string almoet to the hem of tho frock. Ob
viously not a costum for the tittle girl to romp and play In, but one In
which she would make an adorable .flower girl for a summer wedding.
r it tr n Cot,on T0"- tn,n' J ' w fabric for chll
LOtton VOlle drn, and sometime, thl to ulain. and sometime, .iein.ii
In Favor. nd sometime, checked. . 811k Jersey also ffnh. it. way
.- Into many of the attractive little gtrl frock., and so does
organdy when the effect to be gained la one of crisp summer freshnesa.
hiik. are round in great varlty--ln fact, even very little airls ar-oft.n
permitted to wear bright-colored taffeta, and flowered .ilk that we would
have regarded as Impossible a decade age.
There are many serviceable frock, of linen of heavy weave. For mm.
reason, some of the smart children' outfitter hav put out an unusual
number of linen frocks in yellow and lavender: oerhana baunu tv,.
color, ar off the beaten track of children', equipment." W must all
havagrown a little weary of tho incessant pink and blue conventionally
elefetod for little girl, a few year, and more ago. It doe. seem a little
odd to! put lavender on atw.o-year-old, doesn't It end yet one of the
most charming frock, recently shown by a children' dressmaker of note
wa. of white voile, with collar, and cuff of violet organdy finished with
loose, coarse buttonholing. "
on a New Grace
as Worn by the Younger
Generation "
r'J1 AT Cape Takes
X MW
Effective to be sure but also im
mensely useful for seashore or couu
try is this cape of navy blua serge
''ik W"h ld r088 a"d blU "ure(1
I
it