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TULSA DAILY WORLD, SUNDAY, JUNE lfi, 1918.
ot S 777 TULSA SUNDAY WORLD'S INTERESTING NEW YORK FASHION LETTER Oura fifty This Enlivening Discussion Is They Foregather There Is Makers "of Clothes Whtf Try to Persuade Women Into the Opposing Camps Variety in Summer Is So Desirable That Even Rich Women Buy Several Cheap Gowns That Can Be Discarded in September. NR OH THE several discussions which have been thrown into .the I modern hour which breeds dincusalnnn as a I field ilnen mushrooms. In whether it la hcrter for a woman to look for quality or style In her clothes? The argumentative iinil problem atical mile of the clothes la by no means a small iasue In the work of winning the war. No woman hiia u soul ho dead that she dues not want to concentrate hi-r efforta In the right uirecllon, anil to bring to all the minor ithuaea of life, which ahe tnay have heretofore waved away with a careleaa gesture the deep thought and hlith efficiency which the hour demands. Once upon a lime the talk of clothes turned only tf. fabrics, shap in vr, accessories and cvlora. This wan enough to gossip about, and it gave, the public and drcHamakera a lively time. Hue we have Bone up ward or downward, whichever one wishes to call It In n aerie of apir ala to another stratum of air. We are inte-it upon the dlscusaton of what in Kood or had, what la cheap and nanty ua opposed to what' la cheap and worthy in women's ap. parel. Intelligent women, anil other wise, find that the gauntlet of argu. merit thrown into the arena la In stantly snatched up by everyone who has a voice, and tha problematical aide of war-time appareling makes an enlivening discusHion that puts scandal, society and lov affairs In the background. Discussion of Clothes a Light to the Mind. Purely no one not even the moat Intense warworker, can object to the emphatic fact that Die proa and cons of what to buy In clothea are aa worthy of attention aa the aubject of what to eat. Those wiio cry out for a standard. WAISTCOAT OF GRAND Izatlon of dress, for the wearing of one gown till It drops from the body, for the elimination of all enliven- went, variety and pletureequeneae j In apparel should look welJjAo their own dining-rooms and kltcKens to! If they carry out these, oonvie-! 'Mm In tha fond that Is aervod. I H ia fnollah to ray that It is lm-1 possible for n woman 'to discard all S Hie finer parts of ilrca.t and ccano ! li rnre how she looka. One method i might lie deadening to tho nppsllto, ! therefore reactlna on tho health of: "" body, while the other would bn 'leadening to the mind and would hrely react Into mental and moral depression and Ineptitude. Thla very queation of uniforms, of l-irk of variety In clothes, of a meth mm Taken up by Women Wherever a Heavy Battle on Among the od that bars'' enough frocks to change in. Is one of the gauntlets thrown Into the arena of dlecusalon wherever women are foregathered. Another li the question of quality v-rnua style; and still again, the ar Pbifivnt tiiiTis toward whether It la cheaper to buy ready-to-wear gar ments from tfae shops or give the seamstresses their high pricea to make over gowns. There ia no longer any question of exploiting one's clothea and con cealing the price; and therefore In all the argument that have been taken up, by every kind of woman's club, as well aa In those clrclea which have heretofore been largely given over to aocicty, the queation of price and efficiency, of standardiza tion and variety, of the American product an against the foreign, are fought out with unusual skill and dlacernment. All of this lifts the question of apparel on a high economical plane. It jerks clothes bodily out of the lower strata of mere coquetry, of the adornment of thev person for reasons of vanity, and of the eternal desire to allure, Into one of high strategy, finance and efflclenoy. It Is on thla plane that the ques tion of clothea has alwaya rested in Paris Underneath the most friv olous exterior the French woman has alwaya preserved a shrewd mind concerning what ahe buys. The reckless prodigality of our spend thrift manner of buying clotHea.hai never been touched In any other country. We are still spending money, and much of It, on clothes, and we will continue to do so aa long a there la as much money In thia country aa now. But our women have been un blinded, as It were, through catas trophe, and they pitch Into the bat tle of purchasing apparel with the same Intelligence and cleverness that thoy show In grasping the food queation. Here's to a long continu- MONARQUE REVIVED As shown In this sketch It does not bor row elegance from the other period of French history, but has its own distinction. It la of nan- blue bordered with blue and gray, and is placed In a ault of gray Jersey. anes of this attitude, bo'.h In the pantry and In the sewing-room! This problem, which has been presented to every woman during the last six months, aa to whether he would buy a gown which last and pay a big price for It. or buy one which she may discard soon and at a much lower price. Is of high in tetest. It Is settled by the Individ ual, and yet it i Important to the ma as. There Is an advocate for each side In every crowd that foregathers to discuss the problem, and more to the purpose, thers are many advocates for each aide in the commercial world. The people who do exquisite work are loud In their" clalma that it is better to pay a high price for ma terial and workmanship, that will last as long as economy demands, than to pay a fifth of that price for a ready-to-wear gown that will fall apart after a few montha' service. Opposing thla anrftinent, and con ducting a brilliant and usually sue easeful offensive, ia another line, made up of thoae who insist that In a dav like this women prefer style to quality and workmanship: that they would rather pay somewhere in the neighborhood of tin for a ready-to-wear frock that Incorporates the newest fashion features and gives one a smart look, oven if it haa to be thrown away before long. Several women adopt thla meth od: They buy one high-priced gown of excellent , quality and workmsn ahlp, and aee to It that the frock ia not ultra-fashionable: that It haa no glaring features which pronounce it a frock of the hour and not of the year. After this .purchase they build up the wardrobe with cheaper frocks. This la nereaeary In hot weather. One must have variety for the sake of cleanliness, If not co quetry. These women buy most of their gowns at the ahopa. They prefer to take advantage of new stock at a small price, rather 'than reduced models at the aame price, because the latter are far from fresh and must be sent to the cleaner's, and there la still the consciousness that they have been worn by mannequins dally for over six weeks. It haa always been the method of the woman on a small Income, who wishes to dreas fashionably, to care little for quality or workmanship and apend all on style. It la for this reason that America preaenta the most brilliant and daahing conglom eration of young women In the world. The ahopa eater to this Im mense crowd, which prefers five gowna that are' amart .to one ad mirable gown that la conservative. It looks now aa though American women are to be divided Into two camps those who put all their money Into one conservative, weHl bullt gown that must last, and those who now and then buy frocks that have chic and that incorporate the new fashion features. And mind you, there will be poor women In the first camp and rich women In the other. Rich women who have alwaya given 1260 for a gown are now paying 110, with $2 for alteration; and thoae who have never Indulged In a high-priced frock are putting all the eggs Into one basket, going to a good place, and dismissing the clothe question from their minds for a season by choosing one frock, which, from the natura of it workmanship, must last. All the straws point to the fact that the former method will be the most popular. We are a restless na tion. We thrive on change and va riety, rut ua Into a, standardised costume of sack-cloth and aahea and our morale would break up like a house of cards and go drifting down the stream of depreaalon. Give us what we need aa a nation what all young nationa need and we will do our duty brilliantly and successfully. Heights to Which Cheap . Clothes Aspire. America learned a good trick from Parli when ahe arranged to have the beat models Instantly copied In cheap materials, and some times slipshod workmanship, to be sold at small prices. The Bon Marche. the Galerlea La fayette and the Louvre, were the great department storra of the world to ttart thla trick, and In so doing they Infuriated the exclusive set of designers In' Parle. Nothing can be done about It. It haa gone on for a decade or more, and the great de signers have not been able to make any law to prevent It or to atop the trafle between subordinate that per mit It. It Is amusing to hear the llrade of sarcasm and indfgnarlssa- that French designers direct against the American stores for stealing their models and selling them at low prleea. as If America was the only guilty party. Right around the cor ner from the Place Vendome. where one pays 1100 for a gown, the Oal erles I,afayette will offer a cheap copy of It for US- If the dealgnera cannot stop such Imitation and cheapening of styles In their own neighborhood, how can they expect to stop It three and six thousand miles away? It la this trick over here, however, that la the despair of the high-priced dressmakers and the delight of the shops that sell cheap clothes. The dressmakers rest their In creasing optimism concerning hlgh prlced clothes an optimism based on the fact that the dressmaking business has not suffered since the war on the Idea that women will always need to be fitted for good gowns. The average figure can buy the cheap gown; but the fastidious woman cannot wear It because It does not fit her, and the woman who has a figure that departs from the normal, cannot even contemplate such a gown. However, one must say this In praise of the cheap ready-to-wear frock In America. It is cut on the most exceptionally good lines than can be expected at such a price. Kven the best workers of the Galer lea lvifayette do not surpasa, and sometime do not equal, the Ameri can cutters, who work by the hun dreds on gowns that are sold by the thousands. We must have an ex ceedingly good national figure. That is the comment of the foreigners who see our women In the ready-to-wear, qulck-to-buy. amart-to-look-at, cheap gowna that are sold In every city on this continent. Watch for Appearance of Medici Collar. Two women have worn French gowns with high, wdred, outstanding Medici collars of lace and lulle. Don't let thla fact slip your memory for an Instant. If you are vitally in tereated In the new things that come up suddenly over the horieon and promise manv followers. The Medici collar haa come and gone since Catherine brought 11 from Italy to France and Scottish Mary harded ft down to history, al though her 'subtle mother-in-law lent It her name. The student of history gees In it a whole epoch of rrn--W'mt'lkMtifrM'1hisifllSi. sstsjjjal Jltji ' HKER fabrics hold awajr this year not oaly in frocks and undergnr ments, but also In headgear. Straw Is almost unfaahlonuble, art least It Is very far In the background. In Its place come dainty organdie, soft georgettes and rich laree. White organdie Is more popular than any other color in mat taoric unless utv nai ih mane ot ine aanie color as the frock. Printed organdie hats are" very smart with dresses of the same material. The georgette hat, however, la limitless aa to color and poaaihilltlea In de sign. The hat ot navy blue georgette looka very much as If It would rival h hl.yk straw sailor of such long standing popularity. The white georg ette la perhaps next In favor, but the printed georgette Is the really novel thing In the summer millinery circles. The hat pictured la one of the most striking creations which the design ers have attempted with this sheer printed material. It Is a sailor shape of black and white georgette with a flnnge of red georgette. A slender wreath of brlllltint colored, rieia iiowera encircles tne crown, rue com bination is very unique and the result la moat youthful and alluring trans parent hat. rivalry between two women, the old old rivalry between youth and mid die age, brains and beauty, power and vanity. The Medici collar is a symbol of the history of human na ture pressed Into a few short, mad years of French life, it represents what the Three Feathers of Great Hrttaln represent. It Is more than a lanhion, it Is the eTmnol of dy nasty." Now and then, it haa flicked In and out of faahlon. It was taken up by other queens beside Catherine and Mary; It waa worn by debutun teea on atately gowna with tralna a quarter of a century ago; It haa been maintained in a measure In half the court of Europe and It may be re vived this summer. It was made of point lace, wired to Its extremest points and worn witn a black satin dinner gown that was guiltless of all trimming and re ceived Its high light from a string of pearls. It was also worn In a black embroidered net gown dropped over black satin with a curious lit tle jacket of black velvet fastened in front, below the hlp-llne, with a glittering tassel. There are one-piece frocks creep ing Into the fashions that ahow the Medici collar of double tulle, hem stitched at the edge, and there are aoft voile gowns ever colored taf feta that have upstanding ruffles of white chiffon that are deftly and carelessly held up by wires. It pays to keep the eye trained on new neckwear, and evidently, Paris believes that something must be done to get' away from the ubiqui tous, half-low deeolletag which Has prevailed for a decade. ARROW SHOT THROUGH BRIM OF HAT It Is of rhlnestone or diamonds, aa a woman chooses, and In this sketch its ia run throuah the Irregular brim of a black velvet hat. which narrow at a point at the back. Email diamond arrows tauten veils lnlronu H'osfcoof that Reaches to the Knees. Tjst January, the women In Perls wore waistcoats of fur, velvet, knit ted wool and dyed homespun that reached from the collar bone to the knees. The heads of dressmaking houses, who are carefully watched wherever they go, contributed to the rashlon for these accessories by placing them in their own suite. America Introduced few of them, and she did not find even the short waistcoat ot last February a sue ceaa. It was worn by a few seg ments of smart women, fashionable and unfashionable, rich and poor, but the long wirtdcoat was treated as an outcast. It was not 'even rec ognized. But France persisted, and the dressmakers in New York are putting It into suits and frocks for summer resorts. The prophecy runs that It will be a dominant feature of new autumn clothes. In a large bunch of Paris photo graphs that have come ovtr, this lona; waistcoat Is repeated In many fabrirs on women who are snapped as thev go about their new and ac tive life. The sketches that come over the big designers heralds of what will bo idvtnrrUi August. show the long waistcoat a lao. It is made In a different color from the gown; It Is used for protection or for beauty, and although It la probably taken from tho reign of 1juIs XIV, It has none of the elegance or Jaunt In eon of Ha predecessor. It merely looks warm and comfortable, or gay and colorful. It Is the longest waistcoat that has ever been worn by woman. It was matched In length by those worn at the rnnrt of the ilrand Mon t riitiiv Looking at it In Its most en eential feature. It In inoruly aniviher v, iv to straighten the rigure. It, therefore, ran be adopted by those ti whom middle aiic has brought an tiiidi'Mltrd rotundity. Ailtantngi' of lioartilng. Parent "Maria, what was you arid young1 t laaham iloln' lust night when your little brother caught you?" t'levir Maid "Not hln' pa, except quietly dlsciianlng practical experi mentation of oaculatnry theorlea." I'areiit "And that precious young mural t,,id me that he waa a-klsalu' you 11 H0UM0LH3 1H1MT llnaUfaxt. Halved Grapefruit Coin Flakes with Top Milk. Km- I'lim akes. Maple Hyrup, Coffee, ip l,unili-m. t'onilur.atloti Salad (made from left overs). Ilread and Hulter Hundwli'hea. Olives. Fruit Whip Cakes. Cocoa. Il uncr. Naked llreast of Veal with Havory Stuffing. Kculliied 1'olatoi'a. Tomato fvilad. Strawberry Khortcake. Coffee. Summer Dishes. Kamlwieh Filling The following are all good fllllnga for sandwiches: Take equal -amounts of chopped nuta and olivea moistened with aalad dr easing. Boiled egg, minced ham and pickle. ' Cold baked beana moistened with aalad dressing, put between lettuce leaves. Pimento and cheese. Creamed cheese, walnuts and olivea. Cheese and green pepper. Nuts and raisins ground and mix ed (very good). Chopped celery and hard boiled egga. Ground mutton, ground mint, ground plcklea and lemon Juice. A mixture of cooked peas and cheese may be used for a sandwich filling. In fact, cooked cowpeaa mashed and freed from tha sklna by being put through a aleve may form the basis of a, large variety of sand wich fillings. The cheese may be omitted and chopped celery or nuts added, or tha peas may be mixed with a little butter and a few drops of vinegar or Ismon Jules. Leaves of lettuce dripped In aalad dressing add to the attractlveneas of the sandwiches. Frnlt and Not KaUul Take two oranges and nut Into small pieces, one cup chopped walnut meats; on head crisp lettuce out rather fine, one-quarter teaspoon salt, four tea spoons sugar or enough to suit taste, Mix one tablenpoon olive oil with one-half cup vinegar and stir Into the salad. fclerve In Individual dishes. Luncheon Kalsd Drain liquor from one can peas and one can sal mon; add on bunch beet celery cut up In amall plecea; mix all with mayonnaise dressing. fialada. Potato KiUnd Cook and mash aa many potatoea as desired. Pour the water off Into a dish. Slice two hard-boiled egga, on common alxed onion; add two tablespoons vinegar. two tablespoons meat drippings,, one- half cup sugar, a little salt. Thin with the potato water. Slice a hard boiled egg on top. ('otirinh salad Put a piece of salt cdfflsh to soak over night In the morning pour off the water, put on fresh cold water and let come to a scald. Try, and If still salt, repeat, aa It wants to be tender and soft like fresh fish. Pick up. In flakes, cut a hard-boiled egg In pieces, mix with It crisp leaves, cover with the mixture and pour salad dressing over It. Kgg and Sardine, Ralad Slice one head of celery and four hard-boiled eggs and place In salad bowl. Mash yolka of the eggs, four sardines, salt and pepper together and use enough cream to form a thick paste. Thin with vinegar. Mix French dressing on the celery and white of tggs and over that poor the cream dressing. Choeaei ami Jt'lly Salad Place a thin slice of cream choese on a heart of lettuce, cover with current Jelly, then with another slice of cheese, sprlnkls with chopped nuts and serve with boiled dressing made more dellrate by the addition of whipped Donmnsi&oift in Klex Life I)r Kmeraon, of the t'nlverslty of Michigan, questioning the co-eds in one of his classes as to their con ception of the most vital thing In life, obtained a variety of replies curiosity led to a little Inquiry among the working girls and women of an office building, with a ylew to aseertalolnB a correspondence or discrepancy of Ideals between college girls "and those possibly lens fortu- ! nately placed. There was little var i iance, love and happiness predomln I otlng. Love Is a word susceptible of many meanings An Hallowell Sut. .cllffe says, "It stands equally tnr the marsh lights luring men Into the bogs, and for the star shine that beckons them to the cleanly hllla." It Is the basis of social uplift, an avenue to a useful life, and Instru mental In making others happy. thUB Insuring personal happiness. f Stair va&inis Conditions In KiihhIii nrv dcv-rll'ml as so rrltii-ai! that ni.iny woiui ii are ending their own livea nr lit.-.uiiing Insane, lurnu of lick nf Wi rk and the fact that they t.ico famine "I Know of two Kills. frieiiiU ,,f nnr friends, who committed Hiili-ld,.. mi. I two of tha beat known touug pi" In KiiHalii. a man unit a girl, have gone rraay In the Inst two daH." write Mlxa Fllz.'ihcili liul.se, war worker of tho Y. M C. A. In Moscow 'The schools nru cloned and the iini ersity, too. How nupl" luiilmue in live 1 do not aee, for these Is a run afant decroaan In work and even In their terrible dlatreaa tln.s people have not yet come to the point here thev throw down their prldo and do enythln. I) 1st roes l.i Terrible-. "More places are Shut up this week than last. I am going out to see some poor neighbors tomorrow with one of our committee women. I have '.iken In temporarily a nurse, who dropped on our doorstop tho other night without a pluce to bleep and no friends to go to. Hha haa worked fot.r years In the war and was woun Doubtless, where love wna men tioned, the love that leada to nmr rtage, home and children waa meant, and the fact that the word was used many times Indicates that ., the,' thought of happiness In love and marriage still obtains In woman's hearts. A.. curious fact appears In con nection with the modernity of the general outlook. Religion, whlrh once would have led among the re plica, appeared but once In each class. Two or three hundred years ago the only emotional outlets known to women were Jove and re ligion. K the former failed they entered some religious Institution, vowing themselves to celibacy. In this age the woman who finds love la not for her turns to business and makes herself a factor In life. The question of most Interest Is, what has brought about the change In the feminine vlowpolntT Three generations ago the love that leads SCARF THAT TURNS Tt Is of black silk jersey nnrt covers two long sashes at the waistline. The boaxd silk in tho Callut deaitiM v f sr .1 Mainly Emm ded three times, the last tlm while) working on an ambulance In the OoU oi.it revolution. We are trying l rind be- u Job, hut It almost can not I o done. No one want to take an other t.;ron Into the family because It n cans another mouth to feed. Everyone Is doing without a servant, ln'trad of having several. , ' The small amount of poor bread that we can ge! Is grabbed up by our Kins ttiey are so hungry, I notice in tli elans that Is out of work how i he girls are running down physN rally. They are thinner and older and look pinched. Kvn our com luiitue members are aging percept ddv. The mental goffering that many poraona are UDdorgalng I tr rlhlv." Miss noise Is from. Cincinnati, Ohio. After graduating from Smith College ahe took postgraduate cour sea at the University of Chicago and Columbia University. She had charge of the Y. W. C. A. clubhouse at the Panama Pacific exposition and whs on duty on the Mexican border :n mo. to marriage would hav been th almost Invariable reply to Dr. Em erson's Inquiry. A broadening ot thnntal hnrlson Is evident In the en trance of one unconsidered fae tors. The modern woman think of health and food, of liberty, helpful' ness and freodom. Our grandmoth ers admired fragility and thought fainting an, evidence of aanalblllty; a good appetite waa Indelicate; they merged their Individuality In their husbands. . , . . The wider Ideals, vacuo though some of them are, the looking be yond the personal, the realisation of sociable obligation, shadowed forth In these expressions as to wMwt we should live for. Indicate the wider vision of public Issue the growth of mental breadth and of sense of responsibility toward Uf and society whloh or oomlng ',o the women of this era and art mak ing it truiy, ine woman age," It 1 the age ot her enlightenment. ITSELF INTO A CAPE a coat of white. Its ends rna throvglt skirt In of black and white checker-