Tulsa daily world. [volume], June 16, 1918, FINAL EDITION, Society Section, Image 31

About Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919

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TULSA DAILY WORLD, SUNDAY, JUNE lfi, 1918.
ot S
777 TULSA SUNDAY WORLD'S INTERESTING NEW YORK FASHION LETTER
Oura
fifty
This Enlivening Discussion Is
They Foregather There Is
Makers "of Clothes Whtf Try to Persuade Women Into the
Opposing Camps Variety in Summer Is So Desirable
That Even Rich Women Buy Several Cheap Gowns That
Can Be Discarded in September.
NR OH THE several
discussions which have
been thrown into .the
I modern hour which
breeds dincusalnnn as a
I field ilnen mushrooms.
In whether it la hcrter
for a woman to look for quality or
style In her clothes?
The argumentative iinil problem
atical mile of the clothes la by no
means a small iasue In the work of
winning the war. No woman hiia u
soul ho dead that she dues not want
to concentrate hi-r efforta In the
right uirecllon, anil to bring to all
the minor ithuaea of life, which ahe
tnay have heretofore waved away
with a careleaa gesture the deep
thought and hlith efficiency which
the hour demands.
Once upon a lime the talk of
clothes turned only tf. fabrics, shap
in vr, accessories and cvlora. This
wan enough to gossip about, and
it gave, the public and drcHamakera a
lively time. Hue we have Bone up
ward or downward, whichever one
wishes to call It In n aerie of apir
ala to another stratum of air. We
are inte-it upon the dlscusaton of
what in Kood or had, what la cheap
and nanty ua opposed to what' la
cheap and worthy in women's ap.
parel. Intelligent women, anil other
wise, find that the gauntlet of argu.
merit thrown into the arena la In
stantly snatched up by everyone who
has a voice, and tha problematical
aide of war-time appareling makes
an enlivening discusHion that puts
scandal, society and lov affairs In
the background.
Discussion of Clothes a Light
to the Mind.
Purely no one not even the moat
Intense warworker, can object to the
emphatic fact that Die proa and cons
of what to buy In clothea are aa
worthy of attention aa the aubject of
what to eat.
Those wiio cry out for a standard.
WAISTCOAT OF GRAND
Izatlon of dress, for the wearing of
one gown till It drops from the body,
for the elimination of all enliven-
went, variety and pletureequeneae j
In apparel should look welJjAo their
own dining-rooms and kltcKens to!
If they carry out these, oonvie-!
'Mm In tha fond that Is aervod. I
H ia fnollah to ray that It is lm-1
possible for n woman 'to discard all S
Hie finer parts of ilrca.t and ccano !
li rnre how she looka. One method i
might lie deadening to tho nppsllto, !
therefore reactlna on tho health of:
"" body, while the other would bn
'leadening to the mind and would
hrely react Into mental and moral
depression and Ineptitude.
Thla very queation of uniforms, of
l-irk of variety In clothes, of a meth
mm
Taken up by Women Wherever
a Heavy Battle on Among the
od that bars'' enough frocks to
change in. Is one of the gauntlets
thrown Into the arena of dlecusalon
wherever women are foregathered.
Another li the question of quality
v-rnua style; and still again, the ar
Pbifivnt tiiiTis toward whether It la
cheaper to buy ready-to-wear gar
ments from tfae shops or give the
seamstresses their high pricea to
make over gowns.
There ia no longer any question
of exploiting one's clothea and con
cealing the price; and therefore In
all the argument that have been
taken up, by every kind of woman's
club, as well aa In those clrclea
which have heretofore been largely
given over to aocicty, the queation of
price and efficiency, of standardiza
tion and variety, of the American
product an against the foreign, are
fought out with unusual skill and
dlacernment.
All of this lifts the question of
apparel on a high economical plane.
It jerks clothes bodily out of the
lower strata of mere coquetry, of
the adornment of thev person for
reasons of vanity, and of the eternal
desire to allure, Into one of high
strategy, finance and efflclenoy.
It Is on thla plane that the ques
tion of clothea has alwaya rested
in Paris Underneath the most friv
olous exterior the French woman
has alwaya preserved a shrewd mind
concerning what ahe buys. The
reckless prodigality of our spend
thrift manner of buying clotHea.hai
never been touched In any other
country.
We are still spending money, and
much of It, on clothes, and we will
continue to do so aa long a there la
as much money In thia country aa
now. But our women have been un
blinded, as It were, through catas
trophe, and they pitch Into the bat
tle of purchasing apparel with the
same Intelligence and cleverness
that thoy show In grasping the food
queation. Here's to a long continu-
MONARQUE REVIVED
As shown In this
sketch It does not bor
row elegance from the
other period of French
history, but has its own
distinction. It la of
nan- blue bordered
with blue and gray, and
is placed In a ault of
gray Jersey.
anes of this attitude, bo'.h In the
pantry and In the sewing-room!
This problem, which has been
presented to every woman during
the last six months, aa to whether
he would buy a gown which last
and pay a big price for It. or buy
one which she may discard soon and
at a much lower price. Is of high in
tetest. It Is settled by the Individ
ual, and yet it i Important to the
ma as.
There Is an advocate for each side
In every crowd that foregathers to
discuss the problem, and more to the
purpose, thers are many advocates
for each aide in the commercial
world.
The people who do exquisite work
are loud In their" clalma that it is
better to pay a high price for ma
terial and workmanship, that will
last as long as economy demands,
than to pay a fifth of that price for
a ready-to-wear gown that will fall
apart after a few montha' service.
Opposing thla anrftinent, and con
ducting a brilliant and usually sue
easeful offensive, ia another line,
made up of thoae who insist that In
a dav like this women prefer style to
quality and workmanship: that they
would rather pay somewhere in the
neighborhood of tin for a ready-to-wear
frock that Incorporates the
newest fashion features and gives
one a smart look, oven if it haa to
be thrown away before long.
Several women adopt thla meth
od: They buy one high-priced gown
of excellent , quality and workmsn
ahlp, and aee to It that the frock ia
not ultra-fashionable: that It haa no
glaring features which pronounce it
a frock of the hour and not of the
year. After this .purchase they build
up the wardrobe with cheaper
frocks. This la nereaeary In hot
weather. One must have variety for
the sake of cleanliness, If not co
quetry. These women buy most of their
gowns at the ahopa. They prefer to
take advantage of new stock at a
small price, rather 'than reduced
models at the aame price, because
the latter are far from fresh and
must be sent to the cleaner's, and
there la still the consciousness that
they have been worn by mannequins
dally for over six weeks.
It haa always been the method of
the woman on a small Income, who
wishes to dreas fashionably, to care
little for quality or workmanship
and apend all on style. It la for this
reason that America preaenta the
most brilliant and daahing conglom
eration of young women In the
world. The ahopa eater to this Im
mense crowd, which prefers five
gowna that are' amart .to one ad
mirable gown that la conservative.
It looks now aa though American
women are to be divided Into two
camps those who put all their
money Into one conservative, weHl
bullt gown that must last, and those
who now and then buy frocks that
have chic and that incorporate the
new fashion features.
And mind you, there will be poor
women In the first camp and rich
women In the other. Rich women
who have alwaya given 1260 for a
gown are now paying 110, with $2
for alteration; and thoae who have
never Indulged In a high-priced
frock are putting all the eggs Into
one basket, going to a good place,
and dismissing the clothe question
from their minds for a season by
choosing one frock, which, from the
natura of it workmanship, must
last.
All the straws point to the fact
that the former method will be the
most popular. We are a restless na
tion. We thrive on change and va
riety, rut ua Into a, standardised
costume of sack-cloth and aahea and
our morale would break up like a
house of cards and go drifting down
the stream of depreaalon. Give us
what we need aa a nation what all
young nationa need and we will do
our duty brilliantly and successfully.
Heights to Which Cheap
. Clothes Aspire.
America learned a good trick
from Parli when ahe arranged to
have the beat models Instantly
copied In cheap materials, and some
times slipshod workmanship, to be
sold at small prices.
The Bon Marche. the Galerlea La
fayette and the Louvre, were the
great department storra of the world
to ttart thla trick, and In so doing
they Infuriated the exclusive set of
designers In' Parle. Nothing can be
done about It. It haa gone on for a
decade or more, and the great de
signers have not been able to make
any law to prevent It or to atop the
trafle between subordinate that per
mit It.
It Is amusing to hear the llrade of
sarcasm and indfgnarlssa- that
French designers direct against the
American stores for stealing their
models and selling them at low
prleea. as If America was the only
guilty party. Right around the cor
ner from the Place Vendome. where
one pays 1100 for a gown, the Oal
erles I,afayette will offer a cheap
copy of It for US- If the dealgnera
cannot stop such Imitation and
cheapening of styles In their own
neighborhood, how can they expect
to stop It three and six thousand
miles away?
It la this trick over here, however,
that la the despair of the high-priced
dressmakers and the delight of the
shops that sell cheap clothes.
The dressmakers rest their In
creasing optimism concerning hlgh
prlced clothes an optimism based
on the fact that the dressmaking
business has not suffered since the
war on the Idea that women will
always need to be fitted for good
gowns. The average figure can buy
the cheap gown; but the fastidious
woman cannot wear It because It
does not fit her, and the woman
who has a figure that departs from
the normal, cannot even contemplate
such a gown.
However, one must say this In
praise of the cheap ready-to-wear
frock In America. It is cut on the
most exceptionally good lines than
can be expected at such a price.
Kven the best workers of the Galer
lea lvifayette do not surpasa, and
sometime do not equal, the Ameri
can cutters, who work by the hun
dreds on gowns that are sold by the
thousands. We must have an ex
ceedingly good national figure. That
is the comment of the foreigners
who see our women In the ready-to-wear,
qulck-to-buy. amart-to-look-at,
cheap gowna that are sold
In every city on this continent.
Watch for Appearance of
Medici Collar.
Two women have worn French
gowns with high, wdred, outstanding
Medici collars of lace and lulle.
Don't let thla fact slip your memory
for an Instant. If you are vitally in
tereated In the new things that come
up suddenly over the horieon and
promise manv followers.
The Medici collar haa come and
gone since Catherine brought 11
from Italy to France and Scottish
Mary harded ft down to history, al
though her 'subtle mother-in-law
lent It her name. The student of
history gees In it a whole epoch of
rrn--W'mt'lkMtifrM'1hisifllSi. sstsjjjal Jltji '
HKER fabrics hold awajr this year not oaly in frocks and undergnr
ments, but also In headgear. Straw Is almost unfaahlonuble, art least
It Is very far In the background. In Its place come dainty organdie,
soft georgettes and rich laree. White organdie Is more popular than
any other color in mat taoric unless utv nai ih mane ot ine aanie
color as the frock. Printed organdie hats are" very smart with dresses of
the same material.
The georgette hat, however, la limitless aa to color and poaaihilltlea In de
sign. The hat ot navy blue georgette looka very much as If It would rival
h hl.yk straw sailor of such long standing popularity. The white georg
ette la perhaps next In favor, but the printed georgette Is the really novel
thing In the summer millinery circles.
The hat pictured la one of the most striking creations which the design
ers have attempted with this sheer printed material. It Is a sailor shape
of black and white georgette with a flnnge of red georgette. A slender
wreath of brlllltint colored, rieia iiowera encircles tne crown, rue com
bination is very unique and the result la moat youthful and alluring trans
parent hat.
rivalry between two women, the old
old rivalry between youth and mid
die age, brains and beauty, power
and vanity. The Medici collar is a
symbol of the history of human na
ture pressed Into a few short, mad
years of French life, it represents
what the Three Feathers of Great
Hrttaln represent. It Is more than
a lanhion, it Is the eTmnol of dy
nasty."
Now and then, it haa flicked In
and out of faahlon. It was taken up
by other queens beside Catherine
and Mary; It waa worn by debutun
teea on atately gowna with tralna a
quarter of a century ago; It haa been
maintained in a measure In half the
court of Europe and It may be re
vived this summer.
It was made of point lace, wired to
Its extremest points and worn witn
a black satin dinner gown that was
guiltless of all trimming and re
ceived Its high light from a string
of pearls. It was also worn In a
black embroidered net gown dropped
over black satin with a curious lit
tle jacket of black velvet fastened in
front, below the hlp-llne, with a
glittering tassel.
There are one-piece frocks creep
ing Into the fashions that ahow the
Medici collar of double tulle, hem
stitched at the edge, and there are
aoft voile gowns ever colored taf
feta that have upstanding ruffles of
white chiffon that are deftly and
carelessly held up by wires.
It pays to keep the eye trained on
new neckwear, and evidently, Paris
believes that something must be
done to get' away from the ubiqui
tous, half-low deeolletag which Has
prevailed for a decade.
ARROW SHOT THROUGH BRIM OF HAT
It Is of rhlnestone or diamonds, aa a woman chooses, and In this sketch
its ia run throuah the Irregular brim of a black velvet hat. which narrow at
a point at the back. Email diamond arrows tauten veils lnlronu
H'osfcoof that Reaches to
the Knees.
Tjst January, the women In Perls
wore waistcoats of fur, velvet, knit
ted wool and dyed homespun that
reached from the collar bone to the
knees. The heads of dressmaking
houses, who are carefully watched
wherever they go, contributed to the
rashlon for these accessories by
placing them in their own suite.
America Introduced few of them,
and she did not find even the short
waistcoat ot last February a sue
ceaa. It was worn by a few seg
ments of smart women, fashionable
and unfashionable, rich and poor,
but the long wirtdcoat was treated
as an outcast. It was not 'even rec
ognized. But France persisted, and
the dressmakers in New York are
putting It into suits and frocks for
summer resorts. The prophecy runs
that It will be a dominant feature
of new autumn clothes.
In a large bunch of Paris photo
graphs that have come ovtr, this
lona; waistcoat Is repeated In many
fabrirs on women who are snapped
as thev go about their new and ac
tive life. The sketches that come
over the big designers heralds of
what will bo idvtnrrUi August.
show the long waistcoat a lao. It is
made In a different color from the
gown; It Is used for protection or for
beauty, and although It la probably
taken from tho reign of 1juIs XIV,
It has none of the elegance or Jaunt
In eon of Ha predecessor. It merely
looks warm and comfortable, or gay
and colorful.
It Is the longest waistcoat that
has ever been worn by woman. It
was matched In length by those
worn at the rnnrt of the ilrand Mon
t riitiiv Looking at it In Its most en
eential feature. It In inoruly aniviher
v, iv to straighten the rigure. It,
therefore, ran be adopted by those
ti whom middle aiic has brought an
tiiidi'Mltrd rotundity.
Ailtantngi' of lioartilng.
Parent "Maria, what was you arid
young1 t laaham iloln' lust night when
your little brother caught you?"
t'levir Maid "Not hln' pa, except
quietly dlsciianlng practical experi
mentation of oaculatnry theorlea."
I'areiit "And that precious young
mural t,,id me that he waa a-klsalu'
you 11
H0UM0LH3
1H1MT
llnaUfaxt.
Halved Grapefruit
Coin Flakes with Top Milk.
Km- I'lim akes. Maple Hyrup,
Coffee,
ip l,unili-m.
t'onilur.atloti Salad (made from left
overs).
Ilread and Hulter Hundwli'hea.
Olives.
Fruit Whip Cakes.
Cocoa.
Il uncr.
Naked llreast of Veal with Havory
Stuffing.
Kculliied 1'olatoi'a. Tomato fvilad.
Strawberry Khortcake.
Coffee.
Summer Dishes.
Kamlwieh Filling The following
are all good fllllnga for sandwiches:
Take equal -amounts of chopped
nuta and olivea moistened with aalad
dr easing.
Boiled egg, minced ham and
pickle.
' Cold baked beana moistened with
aalad dressing, put between lettuce
leaves.
Pimento and cheese.
Creamed cheese, walnuts and
olivea.
Cheese and green pepper.
Nuts and raisins ground and mix
ed (very good).
Chopped celery and hard boiled
egga.
Ground mutton, ground mint,
ground plcklea and lemon Juice.
A mixture of cooked peas and
cheese may be used for a sandwich
filling. In fact, cooked cowpeaa
mashed and freed from tha sklna by
being put through a aleve may form
the basis of a, large variety of sand
wich fillings. The cheese may be
omitted and chopped celery or nuts
added, or tha peas may be mixed
with a little butter and a few drops
of vinegar or Ismon Jules. Leaves
of lettuce dripped In aalad dressing
add to the attractlveneas of the
sandwiches.
Frnlt and Not KaUul Take two
oranges and nut Into small pieces,
one cup chopped walnut meats; on
head crisp lettuce out rather fine,
one-quarter teaspoon salt, four tea
spoons sugar or enough to suit
taste,
Mix one tablenpoon olive oil with
one-half cup vinegar and stir Into
the salad. fclerve In Individual
dishes.
Luncheon Kalsd Drain liquor
from one can peas and one can sal
mon; add on bunch beet celery cut
up In amall plecea; mix all with
mayonnaise dressing.
fialada.
Potato KiUnd Cook and mash aa
many potatoea as desired. Pour the
water off Into a dish. Slice two
hard-boiled egga, on common alxed
onion; add two tablespoons vinegar.
two tablespoons meat drippings,, one-
half cup sugar, a little salt. Thin
with the potato water. Slice a hard
boiled egg on top.
('otirinh salad Put a piece of salt
cdfflsh to soak over night In the
morning pour off the water, put on
fresh cold water and let come to a
scald. Try, and If still salt, repeat,
aa It wants to be tender and soft
like fresh fish. Pick up. In flakes,
cut a hard-boiled egg In pieces, mix
with It crisp leaves, cover with the
mixture and pour salad dressing
over It.
Kgg and Sardine, Ralad Slice one
head of celery and four hard-boiled
eggs and place In salad bowl. Mash
yolka of the eggs, four sardines, salt
and pepper together and use enough
cream to form a thick paste. Thin
with vinegar. Mix French dressing
on the celery and white of tggs and
over that poor the cream dressing.
Choeaei ami Jt'lly Salad Place a
thin slice of cream choese on a heart
of lettuce, cover with current Jelly,
then with another slice of cheese,
sprlnkls with chopped nuts and serve
with boiled dressing made more
dellrate by the addition of whipped
Donmnsi&oift in Klex Life
I)r Kmeraon, of the t'nlverslty of
Michigan, questioning the co-eds in
one of his classes as to their con
ception of the most vital thing In
life, obtained a variety of replies
curiosity led to a little Inquiry
among the working girls and women
of an office building, with a ylew to
aseertalolnB a correspondence or
discrepancy of Ideals between college
girls "and those possibly lens fortu-
! nately placed. There was little var
i iance, love and happiness predomln
I otlng.
Love Is a word susceptible of
many meanings An Hallowell Sut.
.cllffe says, "It stands equally tnr
the marsh lights luring men Into
the bogs, and for the star shine that
beckons them to the cleanly hllla."
It Is the basis of social uplift, an
avenue to a useful life, and Instru
mental In making others happy.
thUB Insuring personal happiness.
f Stair va&inis
Conditions In KiihhIii nrv dcv-rll'ml
as so rrltii-ai! that ni.iny woiui ii are
ending their own livea nr lit.-.uiiing
Insane, lurnu of lick nf Wi rk and
the fact that they t.ico famine
"I Know of two Kills. frieiiiU ,,f nnr
friends, who committed Hiili-ld,.. mi. I
two of tha beat known touug pi"
In KiiHalii. a man unit a girl, have
gone rraay In the Inst two daH."
write Mlxa Fllz.'ihcili liul.se, war
worker of tho Y. M C. A. In Moscow
'The schools nru cloned and the iini
ersity, too. How nupl" luiilmue in
live 1 do not aee, for these Is a run
afant decroaan In work and even In
their terrible dlatreaa tln.s people
have not yet come to the point here
thev throw down their prldo and do
enythln.
I) 1st roes l.i Terrible-.
"More places are Shut up this week
than last. I am going out to see
some poor neighbors tomorrow with
one of our committee women. I have
'.iken In temporarily a nurse, who
dropped on our doorstop tho other
night without a pluce to bleep and
no friends to go to. Hha haa worked
fot.r years In the war and was woun
Doubtless, where love wna men
tioned, the love that leada to nmr
rtage, home and children waa meant,
and the fact that the word was used
many times Indicates that ., the,'
thought of happiness In love and
marriage still obtains In woman's
hearts.
A.. curious fact appears In con
nection with the modernity of the
general outlook. Religion, whlrh
once would have led among the re
plica, appeared but once In each
class. Two or three hundred years
ago the only emotional outlets
known to women were Jove and re
ligion. K the former failed they
entered some religious Institution,
vowing themselves to celibacy. In
this age the woman who finds love
la not for her turns to business and
makes herself a factor In life.
The question of most Interest Is,
what has brought about the change
In the feminine vlowpolntT Three
generations ago the love that leads
SCARF THAT TURNS
Tt Is of black silk jersey nnrt covers
two long sashes at the waistline. The
boaxd silk in tho Callut deaitiM
v f
sr .1
Mainly Emm
ded three times, the last tlm while)
working on an ambulance In the OoU
oi.it revolution. We are trying l
rind be- u Job, hut It almost can not
I o done. No one want to take an
other t.;ron Into the family because
It n cans another mouth to feed.
Everyone Is doing without a servant,
ln'trad of having several. ,
' The small amount of poor bread
that we can ge! Is grabbed up by our
Kins ttiey are so hungry, I notice
in tli elans that Is out of work how
i he girls are running down physN
rally. They are thinner and older
and look pinched. Kvn our com
luiitue members are aging percept
ddv. The mental goffering that
many poraona are UDdorgalng I tr
rlhlv."
Miss noise Is from. Cincinnati,
Ohio. After graduating from Smith
College ahe took postgraduate cour
sea at the University of Chicago and
Columbia University. She had
charge of the Y. W. C. A. clubhouse
at the Panama Pacific exposition and
whs on duty on the Mexican border
:n mo.
to marriage would hav been th
almost Invariable reply to Dr. Em
erson's Inquiry. A broadening ot
thnntal hnrlson Is evident In the en
trance of one unconsidered fae
tors. The modern woman think of
health and food, of liberty, helpful'
ness and freodom. Our grandmoth
ers admired fragility and thought
fainting an, evidence of aanalblllty;
a good appetite waa Indelicate; they
merged their Individuality In their
husbands. . , . .
The wider Ideals, vacuo though
some of them are, the looking be
yond the personal, the realisation
of sociable obligation, shadowed
forth In these expressions as to
wMwt we should live for. Indicate
the wider vision of public Issue
the growth of mental breadth and
of sense of responsibility toward Uf
and society whloh or oomlng ',o
the women of this era and art mak
ing it truiy, ine woman age,"
It 1 the age ot her enlightenment.
ITSELF INTO A CAPE
a coat of white. Its ends rna throvglt
skirt In of black and white checker-