TULSA DAILY WORLD, SUNpAY, JUNE 30, 1918.
alddnsrWiU s S WWa&r
Designers of clothe
have already started
cto.bor fashion, und
here In ,ne. of them.
It Is a milt of ifTccn
dnvetyn, with a big col
lar of srpilmi. It I
embroidered In squirrel
(rrnjr chenille, n ml tho
Th American government la In-
tereoted In the exploitation of Kenl-
akin. That Is a sentence premium
with stnnlflcance. It means
thlnv In M novel ZA on IHB lllll"i
furB and uao the kind which the
l'aclflc const produces.
Bt. Louis Is to be the. headquar
ters, o It i said, of tho fur Indus
tr in iki. eminirv. llilretoforn Lon
don has had thi supreme -plaae of
thn world. However, journeylox
across tha ocean on self-appointed
missions, either for Industry, com
merce: or curiosity, has had a' taboo
put upon it hv our irovernment and
bv those united with us on the
umer aiue. i
It la easier to Ret to St. Louis
than to London, therefore, and the
recent fur aales In that city have
been ao enormously successful that
tha poltry men are not worried
about tho future.
It is said that the dyes and the
preparation of fir for costume
usage are exceptionally good. 'I lie
story goes that nul'e, a degree of
sharp irritation has been caused
among" certain groups of Individuals
concerning the dyeing Knowledge
that Ht. Louis has made her own.
Whatever the outcome of the Irrita
tion, tho fact remains that the fur
peopjo say that women have noth
ing to fear from the grade, the
finality or tho coloration o the fur
that will hear the American label.
Around World Hcforo Headline
Everyone does not know the ex
traordinary aituation which was de
veloped In the fur trade before the
war broke. Tho simplest piece, of
American peltry that an American
girl wore had probably made a little
Journey around the world and was
f ir more traveled thnn Its possessor.
You could catch a 'coon In (loori'la,
tend It to London for preparation,
across, the Knplish chnnnel to
France to have style and finish put
Into It, then, from a po-rt, in France
to an Atlantic port, and finally
journey It across the continent, drop
It Into various places, well-known
an1 unknown, and aell it to an
Such was the fate of a plecn of
fur. Today our peltry stnys at
home. We fan catch a 'coon In
tieorgla, an opossum In Alabami.
'rap a mink In Now Kngland, ret
, toccther.all the cats ami rats the
nation does not need, and turn them
out between Pt. Louis, New York,
Chicago and San Kranr.lson Into a
motley array of admirable furs.
Kostering this condition Is he
American government. Our native
ealskin will he pushed to the limit
"f exploitation as a fashionable fur
aid there Is no reason for women to
llncer fnr hrhlnd the government In
!s desire to hnve these skins sold
In a steady fashion.
The reason for the enthusiasm on
he part of thn mn'orlty of women
for this soft and pliable fur la Its
"ffoct upmn the human face and
f sure. It l singularly attractive
'o flesh and bone. It falls Into
"upple fold; It brings out the best
In a complexion. Raccoon, opos
num, skunk and all the other long
haired furs are stylish, one admits,
but they arc not becoming. Silver
foies are graceful enough In their
iindulatlona and the hairs are soft
enough i to keep n woman's face
gentle and feminine, but when a
:'iff-hnired fur la put aqalnst the
'bin, the features are hardened iim
though a cold wind had passed over
Paris Is augmenting the use of
re made with floating panel of it
"alskln. Cape are made with 1R
and 20-lnc.h borders of it: iklrts
.lined with chiffon; mediaeval clur-
.-ae of heavy embroidered latlo
Jhatj,hnw a Kllnt of .Ilk ann metal
ln the rtej.lcn. hava Inn, mediaeval
- ........ .'-...".u y,...vi.
flare over tho knuckles,
The s".iklD eaco.ua will rnmo
back with the ostrich feather. These
have always hoen associated In the
minds of tlirife who remember the
days of old, when the height of bliss
to a fashionable woman was a sum
mer In Saratoga, a pair of drop sol
itaire earrings, a short, untrlmmed
sealbkin nacijue and a hat ornament-
The frock on the left Is In mmlinevul offovt i. oil W built of green ebitli nnd lilnek ant In. which ts embroidered
with white Angora wool. Thero la n band of white fix on the skirt, and a oollur or this fox at Ihe hock of
tho bloasn, Ihe now frock on the right Is of navy-blue wait in. with n tonic wujiii begins at the shoulilcrs.
Itio bodice Is a sintlubt uwdutevai uuo of bciyi tullu, cuubruidcrctl lu ailvur itLreeuL to rcMiuiililo a fiXu-eulii-ccutury
Prophets insist we are going backward into mediavitttsfn; in clothes jerkins worn by men of William the
Conqueror's time revived in fur and coat-of-mail cloth, and fitted tunics, loosolv belted, will have sleeves of fur
that spread outward to the knuckles. thcnew coat-of-mail weave will be used for evening gowns and for street
clothes. Leather coats have been invented for woolen skirts in damp weather. American 'government behind
the immense sale and exploitation of our own seals, and St. Louis is to be center of fur industry, instead of Lon
donTherefore, clothes will take on mediaeval appearance, as the prophecies for autumn are that France and
America will join in using soft,, rippling furs in lavish quantities for jerkins. The sealskin sack will again be
come a symbol of fashion.
ed with two nr more long, floating!
The diamond earrings will not rc
t urii to fashion, but the ostrich
feather and llio sealskin rout, will
come out on the prinii urn1 pulh of
fashion In the early uiitutmi.
Tho women of Finland and
Franco li:ivo tho way. Tho os
trich plume wan fust demanded 1')'
thou who made money in muni
tions mi l had to spend II oti tin- sypi
hols of luxury; but. noun the French
women look it up for its beauty nnd
uguln wii have hoi'i felt huts wltli
blue und roue pink. black, ami brown
thickly curk'il ostrich plumes float
ing around the crown iiihI dropping
down on the shoulder.
lino of the new bits of millinery
shows u hat that has a .liffro blue
; 1 1 1 1 1 m f pulled nr. mini over 'the left
1 shoulder like n curl, and mn gets
a quick, flashing backward glimpse
. of thosu women of royal France who
I hunted through the forests with u
plume down their back ami a falcon
In tlirlr ban I.
New Mult Offered ror 'Summer Hu
so it a, Show IVItry.
Till) American nesicnrrs, an well
lis those. In France, me t iklnu time
by the forelock an, I exhibiting; nu
tunin gowns that may be bought
at tho present moment nml worn
at summer rnnnrls cool enough to
make fur endurable.
To the outsider, the verv thought
of peltry in our hoi, hiimbl climate
during July ami Annum, 1m depress
ing; but there are thousands who
are not ho easily depressed by a
circumstance over which they have
full control. They want fir; tloy
like to wear It, ami jt pleases them
to make a phiuant contrast between
their costume ail. I the thermometer
Therefore, the designer win pt
them have their way. Tht y not only
Klve them separate, pieces of fur,
but gowns trimmed with It, rapes
bordered with it and blousts heaped
with it. '
Mind you, they are not etlmty
about fur on thesA new clothes.
There la not a tiny fringe of It on a
chiffon ruffle, aa In other days, but
It ta used In a bold ami lavir.li man
ner, such ns twenty-Inch bands
mediaeval sleeve and luifcc girdles
with bows at the buck.
It does not take superfine reckon
ing to rnll,.e that the American
sealskin Is about the only fur that
can be used in this , ncnei oils fash
ion. Tho atlff-haircd pelts cannot
ho manipulated Into piece of n gar
ment: they must remain ns separate
entities used an accesaorleii.
So, summing It all up, -we have
another bit of fashlotmlile fnnrtn
that la that bear the labed "Made In
I'. R A." It has been pointed out
that this, label should be changed
becaute 'it is not a provincial ns
our ardent patriots in the fuhrie
world would aeetn to think It should
he. You see, wo forget that I'. 8. A.
also stands for the union of Ho'ith
Africa and the t'nited States of Aus
tralia, and tho label would mean
nothing to masses of people outside
We want to become nn exporting
country, und the critic point out
W If V w ifik 7
i " "H" a frown ir oMill.oil tin niotiiiim on a lirlm or irrov suede, with a
chin-strap of suctle. Ixmdon la IU alleged lilrtliphtce.
that It would neeil constant expla
nation to a long list of foreign coun
ties as to what tint "Made in I'. S
A " lube! stood for. There ure lonm
who believe It should he changed
to "Made In America." However,
there are obligation to that also,
because of Canada and South Amer
ica, but it means a great deal more
to thn world than docs tho label
Made In L'. S. A."
History lloHnt.s In New Autumn
In using peltry wo walk back
ward in hlMory. In what we mod
erns call the enrly history of Eu
rope, much that was lovely was
done With peltry. And further bark,
when artlflclsl heat was not known,
when men and women lived In damp
huts or palaces, when life was crude
and raw und self-sacrificing In a
way that we may never know, even
under the exigencies of a great war,
peltry wns tho true moans of cover
ing the body anil making one's self
not only btautirul, but comfortable.
And this s thn reason that the
dressmakers are taking up fur so
early In tho. season and Intend
to emphasize It for next au
tumn und winter; we are walk
ing backward into history for In
spiration In clothes. We thougkl wn
knew something of mcdlauvallwn
through the flash" of I; that tho
designer have given us for the Inst
year, but it nems to the prophets
thai we aro going to tumbiu back
ward Into It and 'hat our clothe
will present a fair example or what
was worn in those early H'imes o
civilization, when It was ihe oecopa
lion o fmon to kill und women to
stay at l.or.io.
You remember the outside blouse,
someume fnshloned as a straight
rurirass, which was brought on the
fashion tnnrket two year ago.' A
woman who asked for one nt a
smart shop the other day was ultlly
told that that line of fashion was en
tirely cloci out. Yet the woman
knew that It was Just coming In
rnd that It would probably grow In
Importance as summer advanced.
This new garment Is a genuine
mediaeval Jerkin. It can be copied
froeri tho men who fought with Wil
Ham tho First, that William of Norse
blood and pirate tranjj Ions, who, a
nistorjr neacritifn mm, "landed in
Kngland and brought with him
bloodshed, d" "station, new laws and
Thee aro made today of peltry.
as tney wero in those nays, and
there Is an odd little glimpse of ro-
latlonalitp hotwoen the silhouettes of
lOfifi and in in. Those Nonunion
girdled thejr legs with leather thongs
coming Htiove half shoe or leather,
and th?re Is Ihe silhouette of the
womnn of the hour, with her long,
laced boots or her high, fitted shoes.
Those mi n wore the tunic with Its
fur le?ves and feisny body, or the
othni wny around, to ho accurate,
and they also swung thn long, rip
pling rape over their shoulders which
fell to the top of the strapping on
their legs. Can't you isiiall7.e the
resumbbiuce between ua and thetn.
Newly Woven t'loili Imitate Me.
dlevul font of Mall.
We are not only going to embellish
our bodies with soft furs as n protest
and protection against the lack of
ci al and hot water In cro winter,
This reslunrnnl lint Is
Imu. - colored sailn
wreathed with nn lin
mense wide. I hick ost
rich fenther In .loffre
blue. It Irnlls down
over the back of Ihe
I nftjie fix. fnul.io
of twenty ycura ui.
;but we delightedly flint that thn do
! s.guei-H are giving; to Ihe world a
I new maleri,.! that" looks exactly like
I a coat of mail.
Women will have jerkins of It with'
isralsklu uieeves, or" they will have
longe tiinlcH of It, girdled at th
waist Willi Indian led silk anil glit
tering in the Mm.
There will be short skirts of seal
skin sometime worn under these
long Jerkins or coats of mall, and
thee! will be evening gowns built of
this silver and gold eont of mall
cloth which will turn the most mod-
I ern w oman - into a first cousin to
I In contrast to these glittering and
I eontpluou fabric of a day w hen
I men had to Wear armor as a con
stant protection from the dagger
thrust of mi enemy, ai e the new
coal of leather.
They shimmer and shins in the
rain; they protect one from the cold;
they will be used ns Jirklnw, as short
Jacket over thick, woolen skirl
when the autumn comes.
This fashion has been stolen of its
gb ry III October by smart women al
ready advancing- the Idea In sport
and country costunuM for had days
I'aiis wore these coats all during
the sining because of tho rnln and
'.he fact that shn was In the open
more than before. They ure of seal
an I lljrht brown, or dark blue and
black, and they are fastened with
leather covered bullous, I'mwilly
there are pocket) and u loose girdle
cut fiom a strip of leather. Till I
not fastened by a buckle, but In Ihe
mediaeval manner of one etui of the
thong slipped over and over the
There Is no doubt Ibut we are go
ing to glitter nnd kHsien ihia year
as did Ihe fighters (if the tenth and
ileventh centuries. Tho milliners
hale blared the way for this, u the
student of dress well knows, ono enn
bull. I up a rathtr good program of
new fashions for gown and wraps
b whit the milliner exploit In
And when you see new felt hat
exploited on all sides, with their
solo dimming consisting of llio tin
sel oord worn by American officers,
juu win rrtiiKo inai ine gntci or
war is to be out into the autumn
Kelt hats, by the way, are very
smart for sufumor, They may keen
away ilho Incoming elvel hat wlhen
havi us In February, when It Is
l.eoded and come bank thn flnt of
July, when It la nmleslinlile.
The felt hat of tho hour I white,
oyster, beige, black and yepow and
I trimmed with inasn of flower
urranged in a wreath around the
When the hat I for eports, for
country or for traveling, lb has tho
tinsel cord of the Amoiic.uu captain.
Km" 1 1 Fashions Thni are HlgiiMleant.
The trench helmets made of tin
aro not becoming but American
women have followed the Urillsh In
using them al iimnirr resort.
Iindon and Pari have designed
furfew hats and America will soon
make use of the mimn and the de
signs. -Jt would not be amis for u
to keep our-tiwn plc:iiresn,ua purl
tan fashion of New F.nglnnd. We
know as much of the curfew ss doe
tlrent Hiitaln, and more than Parle.
Wo do not huvs to Bignal for "lights
nut" In this country, but we can go
In Tor enffew clothe Just the same.
The pointed hat, the sounre-tned
shoes with the ullver buckles end
the long, rippling cape fit In with
the silhouette of the hour.
rVvllght suing; dinner have now
brought out a vast amount of trans
parent but hlgh-neoked frock.
liime are mado of tullo usually com
if f V"'r
bined with some gllttorln metallic
cloth. Tho whole uppvr part of the
body Is covered with the tullo ami
long slcvs have suddenly ficiiilrrd
a place of power.
It Is no longer smart In Ihe b'illg.
erent countries to wear white ttlov.
They are taboo In Fnaiand and In
Franco, and American women are
Vt-giunleg to see Him wisdom und tho
economy of this liisblort.
Ten, brown and any shade ot
b'irii are consldeied tho proper
Ihiiikt. Kven white wash glove ure
not eotiRblei-e.1 as fashionable ns
Ihe others Fconotny Is creating a
style of Pa im i In eveiy bind Hy
common cons, nt, evening glovei
have practically dlappe'ired In the
belligerent countries. Franco ha al
ways hated them, F.nglnnd can't af
ford them, and soon America, will
nbnndon them It inn be that long,
wrllil, lei sleeve will lake thrlr
SEVEN STATES CAMPAIGN1
AGAINST SCOURGE OF RATS
Active "ii Itiiug Carried on I zonk
ing to I Unilimtliiii of Pixt.s; I ,os
l.al Year 'JOO,niin,ono.
To reduce the I'JOfl.nno.OOO loss In
food und other property destroyed
annually by rats, Ihe bureau of bio
logical survey of Ihe I'nited States
department of agriculture I giving
advice us well a assistance In a
number of stain ami local campaigns
uvalust this worst of pest. State
wide ramisilgns ro In progress In
MUslSHlppi, Wi'tVirglniu and lor-
Elizabeth . Ann Looks
A emirs of ealn treatment with
appltestlon of the Mary Abblo hair
lonln now will prevent your hair
from falling out this ummr and
fall. Bee our dlspluy of Mary Abhle
neaitn and neauty prortucta in the
window of Menkemeller s nreaerln
Hon pharmacy 10 Fast Third street.
Our location Alt Roblmon building:.
Tlio 1ik1 shop are shonln many
(imrmlng tiling for thn summer
vtnrdrohn In spite of the lateuetw of
tho season and the tntidetiey to con.
Mr. Orr wlshe to announce that
she now I prepared to furnish !
dr boxes nn short notice. The
hi es, already popular with many of
our men In tho army, contain horns-
made candle, nut, etc. Mr. Orr
make a specialty In catering for
dinners, etc. Telephone 4(11, (OS
South Douldor avenge.
Now Is thn time fn liny a stilt nr
tailored dress for your vacation trip
si, a saving. All thn local shops are
offering nt tractive prices on Uiew
on lob" of apparel. In fact, I do not
co how they ran afford to mark
them at such a sacrifice,.
Ymi' will want one of those attrac
tive llp-over sweater for your vaca
tion wardrnb. We hve them'Qn
all the dainty, pretty eolnrj)Iumlt'
hop, Sinclair building. .
A loenl luggage shop Is this week
offering Sflal prliv tin nil trunks,
suit eases, etc. Now Is tho time to
make your selection of these mpti.
ttes.to the business and market trip
nr summer outing:.
Now Is the time to hnve tho bahy'
portarnlt made. It 1 th between
season nnd we will have more than
ths usual time to devote to posing
him In either the home or studio.
Do (luelilrc-Jtlvkln, West Fourth
Have yon seen the attractive sum
mery blouses of white voile, with
slip-over oollur, being shown In the
The Vogue M.'irlnelln beauty shop
announces special prices on till hair
good for this week. Switches, trans
formations, etc., at a great saving.
17 Knst Fourth street.
A plain and handsome nlt dls
pluyod In a loenl shop yesterdoy was
one of oyster kliakl wind. wUirTront
nnd luick of the skirt laid In plaits
and a sort of waistcoat. The sur
plice collnr forms from one sldn of a
belt In the hack.
The Sunday evening dinner at
Tea Cup Inn ore fllllnrr a long felt
want and are growing In popularity
with pntr"n. of this exclusive tea
ror.m eve: y week
Ifeavy cotton ercpo Is a material
which gives excellent "service and
satisfaction for summer frock and
smocks and It Is very much apprnvrxl
If your help fail yon pd you
gla, while Maryland, Minnesota and
Aliihamu are planning to take up
such work In a few weeks. ..
These campaign are uiually mad
through county cgnnta and emer
gency workers, by co-operation, with
tho state relations' service. Th
board of health of Kansas ha been
making a statewide educational cam
paign against rut, while many local
orgaul.atlons in cities, village and
rural communities have bean en
gaged in active effort to eliminate
thuse animals. An Indication of tha
Increasing interest taken by the pub
lic In this work Is shown In the
steudlly Increasing demand for antl
tut bulletins und pouters published by
Sandy Iliia (.nod Reason.
Sir Douglas Ilalg, the Scottish
commander-in-chief of th Hrltlsh
armies, once said at a London dinner
"A Scot bored hi Knellsh friends
by boasting about what a fine coun
try Scotland was.
' 'Why did you leav Scotland.' a
Londoner asked, 'since you like the
place go much?"
' 'It was like thl,' he Mid. la
Scotland everybody wa a clever a
mself, nnd I could make no prog
ress, but here' and he chuckled
agnlu, 'here I'm gettln' along vera,
wee I.' "
lie) Showed Them.
A yoimu lady appeared before tha
exemption hoard with the right In
dex ringer badly bent. -The final
Question was: "How wa It before
It became bent?" The lad, forrt
ting himself for a moment, trliht
ened It out and replied; "Like till."
and She Says
The Baby Bond and
War Saving Stamp
campatgn went ,' over
big, a doe alway any
campatgn for a good
cauie in Tulta. The
women a unual played
a large part, meriting
the appreciation "; of
their. . men co-workert. ,
The Council of " De
fense hat asked . Tulta
women to co-operate
with it conservation
program in every way
possible and that they
will acquiesce gladly,
there it no d'oubt.
find It too warm v to prepare thr -
meal for tha family, I am aura jm, -j
would enjoy eatinic itlnohtoa . V V,-'
dinner at the Superior Tea Room. Ar , :
appetising lunoheon for II cents an'
dinner at (ft and Tl cent. IM Bout
Main atreet s . . - '
How muih time) have) yon dvwn I
winning: thn war ma past wa . 7 v
Woman' part in thin war la to ooj- i ;
sls lAntely In what he dooa la ttu V
way Of tXvA Crosa work. ; ,-4 ".
Take advanta of tha bla; stavlnlrV " ,
on all luggage at the Klephant TmnJci ' ' :
factory this week. Wa have the tt-h ' '
clualv agency for the Hartmam ' x. !
wardrobe trunk. Our location Ift.i .
South Main street. , l-rl i
When you plan yoar vaoatlon tj A '.
should' arrange to spend, aovera . g. ..
Iieiirn eaoh wock In lied t'rorss ae ..
livltlrM, wherever you mar b. Wor "
rnntns havo Imii retahllnlted ai ar , .
should be found there "iKdnf yoo
hit' every day In your absence frost.
Miss Ilerold who I taking adraftaiMsi
tnge of the between season to renew w4M
her hat shop., ha a white namelediairej
rrenen millinery, lauie oi wnicn infataj
wo uld like to dispose, tl WesfaThtri Tbn
The) emork Is as pupnler a eve -
Willi both the) old and youngr t ok t
sport, outing and votratlon wear. - I
Foot comfort Is an absolute necet . i
slty at thl season of , the yo&rf Our . jf
graduate chiropodists will keep your" '
feet In a' cool and comfy condluai"" .
during the warm oason. The Vows' : t
Mnrinello SUop, 17 Eoat Kourttr"" - f
iruei. : i z i'
. . . . . r tax i j
i uitiiK i never snw more cjianasnnu v-
lug summer outfits than tha waakaaoa -S
at In skirts and pretty gcorgetx eyoug
lingerie blouses which are bnlnt . i
worn so much this srostm, They an " f
siuiuiiio nir ciiiH-r urn or muuroi
Wo have been so busy with th
bond and saving stamp campaign til
past week that wo have had no tin
for thought of anything-else, but r
be prepared to furnish you with!
delicious cream for your Sunday fill
r.er at any rate. Purity Ice Crea
i con in Htijrgcst notninjr nwini n
pn-iiy, niiiiiiiiie nnu m chhi sxyie) if
dress lor tlio vacation warawn
thnn of hillomd empa do clitne.
The Superior Tea Room ia alwsl
a delightful cool place In which
at luncheon or meet your men
for a eoollnir drink. If you do nr" 1
see what you ilk on tha menu.
can mix it for you. 514 South Mr J
For the tronseeau of the fmninf J
war nniie some pretty Miliums
rtilllpplne hand-mnde linireHo
being shown In the loenl sluipe. Wl ' .'n n -
iin-ir lino i-iiiiiiTiiiinry wim anil w ji-
stitches, thev aro mont aXtracti vu
the fcmlulno eye. y ' j f
A it- . "
ft ' . -J , .
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