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TULSA DAILY WORLD, SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 1, 1013. The Tulsa Sunday World's New York Fashion Letter WILL THE WEARING OF LONG, DRAPED SKIRTS BRING WAISTLINE BACK TO NORMAL? WIDi: TICKS TRIM TTIE MOST F.V-STIDIOI 8 OOW .NK. Tliei fnvck la nf hrwry .(tilnrwr llk, with luck from dip in Im-hi anil a nnar nf white I'lioclu-t buitiiiM. Tlir full alor'tcrt urt lirltl In Willi tuckoil wrl.it hia. Alt nece-alty everywhere; : I'lK'Uiuiy rtirMrii, inere fort-. In a thoinurd way. Turnimr and Iwlatlng ti find out how good reaulta can be nhtalned through unbearted channel ia th effnrt of each Indi vidual, the tnaaa uf ahopa, and the hot of deelKner. w Thl I the aiimmlng up of the (atltchery which women have worn entire apirit ua epi ewn-d In women' I over their contume for three cen apparel It la nut a Continental turtr I a remnant of the rhaln-mftll aplrlt: it la a wirld aplrlt. It per- i phut all Kuropean men wore when vnde land where fighting la un. I they weet forth to fight. And o It known: It rules In home from which no filthier have gone and In which there ha alway been a ren con fidence in the anility to artlve at a ronifnrtiihle onnrhialon. The old. eaay method of drelng ha vaniaheil. rerhup It I gnni forever II la a tcniptaflebn to dip back Into thej tnat and recount the epland c adventure and experlencei thrniiRh which women hve gone when great war devaelated a cnun- try and ne I M raw material It I nni oniy mi' i uneiitution inai follow the flag. It I women ap parel that follow It for year tiftci the flag baa re.med to be a ivmhnl of battle anil leinaln only a ymbo' of patrlotiaui All the crpat wan have definitely changed the rntirae of women clothe, although tin;; may not have left upon them the hinting lmpre!on (hat war have left upon men' clothe Tie mal portion or the world rarely think of thl fact that every garment he weara I nlmoat directly reapnnbb to autne explnaion nf mankind What tin been dune fnr protection ha often remained for the aak of fuahlon What wii dope for cnm - fort an.l ninvenb nee. and what wa - canned hv neceaStfv. h i been In aiigurated Into the cony cnt lona' echetne of apparel. It wa after the war of the di rector that men wore long trim r The very ln(Rnlflcant flat bow on the aide of a man' at,raw hat her ! been worn on" the li ft nil because i a warrior kinK f.iiiml that the plumer j Dunning School of Improved Music Study MAUD ELLEN LITTLER ELD Ten Year' Experience Teacher of Voice and Piano Villi I' ITI'II.S are plven eprrla) tralnlnir In Fundamental I'rlnclpb of Miialp, HUtht Heading. Far Training IHclailon and .Melody Writing, in addition lo regular Voice Culture. I'lANO riTII.N are taught Ihe rennwned Ininnlng Fva tem, emlotticd lv the leading Mimical F.duciitnr of Ihe world A child will Rppompllah more In first year Ininnlng I'lano Hludy than Ihe average 3 year' course, na pursued the old wuy. IVi Invite comparison and welcome Investigation. I'niia no more---tleta reaulta. Studio Addres 204 S. Olympia, Tiilna, OUIa. A postal enrd w ill bring you infut mntlon In regard tn the work rhmip applied f..r. on (h rlcht ild of hi lilmet m rloualy Interfered with thi uprll woril In hi right hand. . II chanced hla plum to the left, and In rtifmory of that men hava worn on thu left all whatever touch of ornamentation thr wa on their data. Thl has tiecom c hannrabl flxtur.. ,lt thfl orlK,n.f ,h, bow on the left aide began In that for gotten battle. 4 The atralght hlr(walt which women have worn came from tiarl- lial.li; the atralght, oiital.le ahlrt worn by peaiuinta came from the culraa of Pagnbert. that eaily fight im? klna of France: and the looae goe. Honk could be written on change that war haa brought to clvlllted apparel. And what will th! great war bring? We do not know. It I too early to ay. Thoa who reinaln alive In the nildat of an explo:on have no time to think how far flung I (he rroundlng roar of the thing Hut of one thing everyone I cer tain, becauae It I brought home to each houae and earh hnp the ne r,iie 1 1 y for Ingenuity due to lack of materia! Women IMlcht In Itrvertlng I'biniTT lny. It I no alinpie thing In llinter down Main trrct today, drop Into a hop and buy any kind of galloon, braid, embroidery nr nthe- orna inentHtion for gnwna On find that manufactured article are becoming more and more limited. "rtie war Industrie board haa gone Into the ituallin with auch thnrnughne 'that manufacturer hav beCn re j ipire'ed to Inp off everl thnuand 'litem that are considered a non- eau-ntlal. i Once upon a time thl world jwhlch dyuily love a phraae, twlateil jnnd turned the woi .1 "Irreducible Pminlnium" In fnntn!lo way to uli a varll y of mean Thla phre wa a rater In popularity to l'reideni t'levelnnd'a fatnoii "Innocuoti de suetude." Today the expremlon thai ha eiiperaedad all olhet I "the elimination' of non-eentlnl." and there re rhou inda of women who will tell you thai that mean both The I)csiKncrs Kralize It Is Not Piwible to Wear Cuirass Wouse and Chonilno Tunic With Narrow Draped Skirt That reey." Vh Instep. If Masque Upturns L r'avor, Small Vaint Should Conic With It, Uut Nature Mav Object at 7 it. I eT lf 1 1 i-tory . I notiuit v Caused bv War N. ccssity Has Developed Much That Is Agreeable in Clothes. Self-IrininiiiiK Prevail. Wide 'l ucks Used Instead of Other Ornamentation. Collars and Cuff, und Kven Sep arate Sleeves Are i:,.uKlit by the Half Dozen to Knliven a Dark-IIued Cown That (lives Daily Service. "ii reducible minimum" ami "mrm I'unu desuetude." Il I wi ll f.,r un extravagant enntlnetit that the im doclhlii minium in run bo atrlvrl ui through compulsion. Tin- development of Ingenuity I "tin nf the most puwtrful factor n Hi icrnwth v hallnti We In cline c i . t cm tliul basis Wa lum becninii lothful and extravagant l- PUJNi! HUT fret WITl' l,fle. fiotll (li.lt I, J Nil" fi HI II 'l.i ( II ITI . Tilings have duct Inn easy for un. Km iIik glorious thing that thl war li.ia l.muirhi almiit In the ami I nf A m i ii a ! the fundamental truth (hit the lairr nf exlraviirianre wa utily 11 layer ol Hint ill (lit, and Unit the moment iiir KOIll Wa culled above Itmt It i.Ni anil acted according to Iia lusl li,i dltlon. ThiTd lire) no complaint Tin-re I no moaning becauae nf mrnfirc There la no w hlnipci imt lie. nunc what we mnlilcre. en-titlal haw been icleguted In the rear a mm eMenllula. Nu woman la an utterly worthies that she la petulant be cnuaa he cantrnt Ket eveijthinie ahe -.i.a. .i i. a BitiinKe. aininiri Ihlng, thla ui-lval of a nullnnal nw.n. .--r Tiiiniun women nave Itiinn back tn pioneer day In plrlt nu in iinrnuun wnn ttie ume ae. retilly nf cuurane that their amiatuta ahnwed In other day III a letter of a Krench officer to hi brother In till rnunlry lie ei proaaei th aaloundinif enperlenr nf th French army In findlnir that the civilian American fluht like lunle.' limine. Ilclnif a I'renchfnan. he Kiipped the raaentlal ami put It Int. a phraae. If our men are a "throw buck" tn Jianlel limine, then our women, are almi a "throwback" to thnae lime. The only way lo find out how blraaed we are In theaa day I ! cnmpre our lot with the women '. Panlel Hnnne day. If we do that conatntly, by readin 1iltory and recurrlnif to the pant, we find our- elvea In a aplrlt of exultation tha' wa are really deprived of in little tn (he material world. (own Trlmmitl With UK of TliitnaolvCH. A report of what- women have don In devialnic ornamentation for their clothe would read aa an In tereallnir bit of war hlatury. Out from Ihn depth have come um of rha ornamentation. The dealnneni. however, have fnund that the bra I way lo trim a Rnwti I with Itnelf There I very lull danger than of II brrornlnir a patchwork quilt Tuck have returned, therefore They have been launched on the new autumn itnwn aa anmethlnK f a novelty. They are not permitted In woolen rlothe. becauae the gov eminent ak ti to omit every Inc! of miperfluou worated material, but we are omlltlng It by the yardage lead of the Inch, and are finding ourselvra quite content with rompo n.m.n itat -ijot.jm y i -- i'"'--.'-..,iif.A.y - -p - r The- kci li alio- a a gown of heavy hlnrk anlln. with a bnrr. I effec t obtiilncil In Hie skirt (lirfuigli width nl t'i" hip ami narr-. fiiewa at the hwtn, anil lhi whnlc siirfaco laid wllh lint tuck 1 lie light bmll.e flnlahw al lln normal walsu .Inn wMli a narrow l-nivat lnl(. Tliere la a fi mi' laiflur of wliln nrgnmlr. 'I lie fluieil liul la of Ijblivi k aatln xvl'l' a crown nf nrtnlrw. I tiloww Uluuiical wltl UUtzk. cakracuL vn. in n, t li u t hale ntily it ilaa!' nf W'hiI In thrill, an I nflin noun h 'I A unman ili'p. tula un hill' i.iih ami inp inula fnr .ninth Them are a'em ilnt'ii mitrrlah Willi II lllii government line mil need ami nf which w can li,ie all wi unit. becauae the A im-i lean in 1 1 lis i of widening Hie aiihuin lie. l.y pliii'lim tin Hum 'nut A the wir pin- loose pleala from ailnplt In hem -a. th.-y inn mil he avtlUMt 'There la no iiltrmpt in make a foit n a vainly nf wiv.a nr color, aii.!;liu. frock in iiainriit.il i uddinK tlnnr.iie il la ri'.illy wle fur, iiilnal.l in fanciful lintlnna. an un "."nan In hpy f il.rtca) that ahe liket ! inutile. I number nf rxliu ollata an. I ii "I 'it iheni aside fnr seasonal use (cuffs lire employed tn vaiy Hie frock I hia m i l : fie. I manner of limn . lum fimti day In ilu. la linl lil ji'i tinn il.le In the govern The noi km.it r.illlltrtl are loaded un nt. an l it .a ,i i hit nf wniktii Willi Una.- rtia und. mn some Hi i':i aside n my tin. f.ihrlia. und im.iiii li I Ii I ilk. an pit f Iiiuiih n r nu nicnt . nut the j .ii in. -i, ia made nf Hi. a. I it (he average Hnni.in fin. la Unit a f.llilliM .S.i U'lilnnn u-anlH tn f I II it lnii !r In .i .ti it up with rli.ihra tlia' ire nut nf faMunn In all iiiuiilha time. . Aa fnr the materia! whlrh an valla).! in.liy. they iii.iv luat Himmh the winter There la mii.-li la'k of wiatniK fn tin, tiiffi.tn, piinun 'ifl.l v.'irmna lie-nv I'lm..... u.il. tliioi.Kh.nii the mid weather, iinik- ( t1P, r.inifntliil.le fnr (he : nr fnr hiitli.ii l.m.a.a l.L. l... uper H.I. II tnn uf warm ! cuvennua. uiidei wear and tn Th dealitner have banked heav lly on the in.itf of thm mut.Tiu U fo nvit wiiiter. nu. I thiMcfoin they havi lirnuht nbuiit th.a rraurieited f.ih Inn of ti iiiui.lii a now n with Itaelf which I (iil! e.ially .lone when tin ninlerlal la anfl anil plinble. Vihvn tuck are ued tiny are ar ranged hoi l.nnt;illy They do nut otifua thetinelvea with pli at which are vertical. A few of Hie new lkirta lire tucked from the bona of the hip in the In tn. the luck (ouch iiiK each other and made frrtm an 1 ich to two Indira wide Knrnetimi tin conalllulea the entire trlinmlnK of a (own. Hut when ttie akirl 1 extra narrow at the hem the barrel effect I more etrlklng than It hae been fur two yeaia. A IViuluril N I'lmt (linlon for An tuiiiii liny. There I reallv an extraordinary amount of fuulnrl worn In the changeable Hipteinher weather. II I o rnmfnrtable In the hmiae. and o eaally covered In the open, that II preaenta ltef ua fir art aid tu belli well ilreaai',1. There are broadly checked foil lard In black and while, and oilier tnat nave a dull blue or orangi tripe or flxure running- through ihr check Whatever the choice, rhei are made almply. One doe not go In for Chlneae blue, pink or ametht the day, except when one wear t "own in th houa that have erved Jirough the aumnier. but color ueh i n black and white, puiple and brown, gray and deep blue are In-Irhoaen In the foulard for the I ilreet. Thl fabric lend Itaelf admirably If ,.tPl fx ? and Tnurn skip.t in tiii: i M1SBJ Tlicsnnvrt fn k at lh right la nr while hmnilclix h, and Intel a llunaluu wbJtli 10 tcUua Uo boituui nl the nurruw lUrt, In 1 r I rim ii 1 1 mk The wklrta at lui'Kt'.l fiulil ll.p In hem or klieia t" lit' III. an. I When thcle in II K' i I II III III .1 InllK 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 .1 1 1 1 . II ll.ia fill' UI rlrlit lucks tu fiiiir.li II. There la very little .li.ipciy on Hie mart frock, ciccpt the new mi'tlio.1 lit 1 1 v t Initial- nf tii.ik.-d a a.'inlii . arlannie tn I he i Tim I.hk" fi i ulliir lined nil. I rulfi ltnn In. i ye. hna areni In li.ivr Klven w.iv In Ilia a.inph-at of linn nxer cnllur. und Amerlciin nmnrr h in luki n up ut l iai the I rciu h mi'thu.l of cuttltiK the nm a In un fttK-atuiped opiuiluK ami fencing It arnuti.l Willi u ri'irrnw luin-nver cul lar of en k iinly or net. It Ilia been ninny aenanna iilncr ai'parale ruffa were wm n. but they .ippenl to woncn today, nlllmiiiih the cutialanl ii'liivfiiiitlnii uhlch I tiecefl aury to their froHlinee la n mattei of lime and expenac. llnwevrr. I hear fac(ota tin not eem In bn taken Into cntiai.lei ul Ion. The itcalie fnr the ex Ira rufr In mulch the cnllnr rldeii triiiinphaul over tlio thntiiiht of Die work reiiulred In keep them In or der (liunllel cuffa of all kind, col ored an.eV iJilte. eeiiecl i II v In or- .K'indv, Tiave i nine tutn beini. I Thin luce tin irlven wny to a Rmal' ) ItTti rrm lid e.lKlna:. and many I women crochet the old faaliloneil er I pontine e.lKln which waa conaldered I ;i faahlonahle luxuty by our Imme diate ancealur. iKitlicr MciIiimI nf IVr-licnliux Park I rta k. There ha been dil-ne(l ft almplf and pupular mid nau itown made with a luuae peplum ahlrtwalal that haa ihort alrevr and a rounded low neck. It I tint only worn by yoiin Klrla. hut older women find It avail able fur many of their daytime ar tivltlea. It I maife In black and other plain omber color, and It If alio In fiaured foulard and printed rhiffon. It allow an extra pair of leeve. and thl trick I another re vlval of an ancient and honorable d;' when women were not extrava gant and depended upon acctaaorlr In coualantly enliven one well-cliuaen daik-ttued frock. Tli prte leeve ar mad of mulln, pongee or even coarae lace Thev are attached to a blouae o mtilln or net. which eerve a a coret cover and rarrle a collar that i pulled nut over the frock. It d'e not take much Imagination oui rr.or itu viauallx the ciinatant chanif that Lin be playail upon when aep.irate a1i.evea and collaia'are permitted In una frock. True, they need ciinaliinl IwaKhlna. but inanv of (hem du not I need natch, and all uf them can be nlly It nned at Inline. Il la pfop healed Unit thl form of I .In.., nu will xruw in. n e In evldenci 'aa the winter weather cniue un, fnr Hie mediaeval aiw In Hi la nietllnd ;uf cluHiinir Ihemnelvea a Hay to keep w , 1 1 in ami In enliven their appear- an. Hit I. n warned In time, and do i ti.it thniw away a ruwii becauae H lai inhulea and aleeve ut e wut n out. It can be nnule Into'u mediaeval tu nic or abort apron, which can b wuii over acpuiate aleeve ami collar attached tn il akcletnn blniiae. j Will tlio II lull Ualat llelnrn? TlniM la riimur lieaped upun ru in. r ciini in tiliiK the new Rllhouelt Mtllrh iii.iv be epeced hefot the iiiiliiinil liluwa Itaelf Into winter. At p.'eaiuit lliete la no lnlentloti of any- itliinii violent or alaitltnjr: MlTThaje I il. i iluubl In Hie mm. la of Ihna In au thority Hint the Inatep-leiiRl h draped akirl will b In fuat faxlilon, and brlmc In II f r ia I ii a aerie of draatlc clmiiKi In allhoiielte and aarmenla It la eaay In aen that with the "tie hack" eh it 1. with It drapery pulled clna. 'ly at mind the riaura and It narrow fold wcepln the Inatep. otie cantiot wear a culraaa blonae, or a tnlUaiel tunic, or an oriental ah ut the hip If thl iklrt prevail there will come about a lighter ho. I Ice than w )iva worn for aeveral auna. and til waltllna nuiat b at the normal nr abov It. Which fuahlon will prevail? u There la no poaalhlllty of reducing our walata to a eaiall meaurmnt The planked-ahad type which hat prevailed for eight year ean war K aahe where It pleaaei. but what about th thoiiaand of other women. thin and atnut, who hava allowed their walt to broaden out Into ciilplurRl meaaiirementaT Thill walat have miiarlea that kra atronc nd iinpllable. and they will not b a.iierKcd In by rnrei. Therefor, only the willow type tha allm, I1HI. bonelrax youngater rarf pull In hnr walat and tie a anh ariund It With out being a carlcatura. 1 liusincHs of lleing j a Houneiclfe 1 ITunk Nirnlt muff I'd ami llaked. Flank (eaw: 3-4 nip cookad Verlht rlca. 1-2 cup atnek or water. I teaio. infill Mil. 1-4 teaapoonful pepper. I teaapoonful chopped onion- I leaapounful chopped prly. I onion. 1 carrot. I turnip. Wipe vteak, remove aurpln fat and kln and lay flat on a board. Make a dressing of meat lock. rlca. salt, pepper, rhopped onion, paraley, an.l spread on meat. Moll with th grain an that when If I cut It will ha serosa grain, tie Barurely. Place dlred vegetable In pan and lay meat on them, pouring In enough lock to fill pan to depth of on Inch. Cover and bake three hour, or until lender When rooked re move meal and thicken broth, ualng on tablespoon Cornatnrrh. In th ahaenee of meat atnek a tasty stock may be made by dlsanlvlng 1-4 tea spoon A miner a l.xtract of Itnaf In one cup nf boiling water. Tamalri Tin. t rup rhopped rooked meat 1 teaapoonful onion rhopped fin. 1 awent green pepper. 1 pimento (chopped). l-J cup rnrn meal rooked In, I cup boiling Baited Water. 1 teaapoonful salt I'apt Ika I cup tomato Bailee. Mxke tomato aauc. add meat. lt, onion, pepper, and well cooked corn meal. Put In pan and bake I until nicely browned Herve with 'Armour Ovater Cocktail Knur. Pralartl Ox Julnla. Oxtail 4 table aponnfiil vegefole. tali In poofiful corn atarrh. cun hot water I 2 teaspninful Armour's I'xIraPt of beef cupa tnmalne teapoonfil alt. 4 teusi oonful (lepfier 2 cup eni Ii carrot and turnip table tinonfii) vinegar Cut oxtail at lolnta. parboil two mlntilps, w.ish Ihuroiighly, dredge with flour, and brown In melted ....ll A.I.I ......l. ,.,..1. fr..n. ! ler and axtract nf beef, tonmin nd ea'inliig Hnke alow'v I 'v hours, adding, diced veretahle half U hour before scry lug add vinegar 1 il l lnvn end Plnc'ipph- ulnd. 1 SK'-I-S plt.efipj.le I piuiml Amei.ican cheese ltnlled dresalng Thoroiightv wasp the lettuce, tin In checsn cloth which ha been wrung out In cold w iter, end place ,.n cp t'ri.am the cheese wlthj t'lri'e tnli!etui'o boiled ilreiaslngj an.l f irm 1'ito ha!' Arrange let- tii.- leaves on salid plate, place one sl're i f plt'i-apple "ti each plate uitti chelae bulla In Hie center of plneippl Herve with a dressing of ivV.e.1 er.'atn to which has been ailed billed dressing to give Ihe P'H'.rc I 'flavor loco! Ten, cup cold Ipii I n f ii wl on. I cube pineapple. . Maraschino chertle. ciovm. 1 cun pineapple Juice. sprlrs tnlnl. Pmir the lea 'Infusion over half a glass of cracked be Stick clove In the chertlr. Add cherrle. pine apple fuhea and pineapple Jule to Di" iea. 1'Uca tnlnt un the djr of lau 8FPARATK 8 LEE V ICS AUE WAn-TTME WTErriOJi. Till fmrk of dark blue and Willi ftgwrel fnulard haa a looae wplapa bluuaw hrbl lnwlili a gilt bat mrd. fv akcMon bUme IsracaUi baa luoao, flowtni alorveat and a mllui rolUr of brxt ; white ctUffoa. Elizabeth About Town Wiail Jcrarjr fnak are Im-Iiic hmiglii fres-ly liex-auao I hey make Hie fn-Mt liMiklng wihiI frxwk al a so mil pretv. Mr. t'hnrlea (illhert. exclusive la dles' tllor, juat home from New York, ha asked ma to announce his removal to 231 I'ule building, l'hone SU4I. f.bivew are mining In black, white and blsi nll aliniie. Ollwr alutdce) nre) nut lo Im obtalud ilii-ao busy war time day. rniieiior nimi'is uir ervun uu. o i prompt and iwrfwct. Have you nor lint iced (hi aa the outstanding fea ture at thla tea room ? (II Huutli Main. Plnlla arc achloin aexn In klrt ISo. hunting tn Bulla anil when llM-y llu Ihry rtrt In twin form appearing: al rr.iiU'r, back or alilcx. Have you Been (ho exrpilslt frame for the army man'e picture at tha Tula Decorating company etoreT Frame In Rold and battle. hlp gray Beem to Ie the favorite. 211 Houth Houlder avenue. Tlie girl who la going to rnlleire will he InlrrtxMist In Hie llilllu IlurWo pnjnnm of waali aatln. There never wn w holesome beauty wiUiout gogil jjuaRU o ita fuuntliv- ' J September C - ' TuUt WiU vtk Merchant Witnen A V fK j .t. rtly And Shop Keepin llav Return ffiX tftV Jt I t Anticipated of the n I iFT frf T Thelr Wont College :: f ( 4 Jjr And Xeeda Youth ( I A XTlll '( Mlil U And Stand and Maid Sj V l J To Higher ' Df learning. Al)' 1 Ann Looks and She Says tlon. Tha Harper (hop build up tha health and beauty 1 the result Mis Helen Ilraun In charge. 408 South Moulder. Phone Till. Tim mhlily suit la typically m mlMMV nHidi'l and la partlmUrrly rf . fii tlvo In bnllvla huuVt-d to Use lilpa wllh Hiiilaon arat, , Kveryhody known that de r.ueldra Itlvkln portraits are distinctive for their charm Bind arttatlrnena. Ar range a Mlttint for your man who are going Into tha srvlc. Tela- phnne K4J3. Weat Fourth trt. Ilrca-adiw In metal rffcx-ta arc mm bl mil wiili vclxda on many of the liagis Cr ' I'pgfry. hava you ever aaten lunch al the Huperlor? Tou will b aura to find everything the beet the tnar kt afford, excellently rooked and Will served. 614 Houth Main street. Navy bhoC crge I'tinthlni'd wllh wil ami nary check, tlM-n acitirdlon phnii-il, la the baala of a youUtful skirl. Mr. Beaver's beauty hop now Is speclallr.lnf on th making; of other bnlr good from combing". IS Kaat Fifth atreet. Telephone 691. Irwlext neita hi aP black are awntt to UbUkHt evening fnock, V. I ' . nsw'".1''"". .. iiwiiMiimii.il I "i " "m S'lBI ;r ' ''"4