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I Ht; h-VbiMlNCi JOUHiNiAL, FH1UAY. MANCH 14, I9<3 ■ ^ r x5 - m. 1 ! V ! o i-i r v/tre/J/ '&sszva£er , ! Ml t L:. ,d\ »or f V /: K:â : j ■ '■ % . V. jä ötiXi f DcP/H 4 _ / \ h. L <> -_fiu aS^xyy — A\AY MANTON Weather Bright Spring Smart Models for ( jh y m <£ 4*é c>' • • •V € rx: *■ 1J A«T vO, •l(Xl i X ii K S5^»& « l) ■r jjj /«. \ « jffS; I • X rîwffO r^A' % \ r $ /"» ^ n / i si A ...I m, WiM&ß* ; . a -, \ w 7 - j ■ $ . e-T & ^ .j w«> • w v & A < \ \ / \\y \ • v v lA*; ? î^_r ; - / /, • ^ / * / ' ; / \\ I is r* ij Vi ; r* X f • & •r#\x 4"/ I i \ .1 CO '•—o'* ;/ 07 / e k ■ > > ; ru j?/» ■ 's n t> a. %ijm 15P M ■ 31(07' -£AP A\ » c 7î s^jtr'î h O ÄlfvT . ff; X ; at /«5 a i :.vcag^ - ? // m I • IP „ i»/ " • » » ■MV ' • I ft! I ■ ■ ■ r^i x li / ft /TV|i iv F * » . Jli 5 r 0 « A w; Vu 6fl • ' ll , nM M ?■; £! I r; 9 :: /. > "r 1 ;-. kV , f . ^ h IrhZZ <y u » c ft//, .<• V iî \« I TS&f y ■ * y. ü* ■ m I ■i &v li V r.. ' U ':. 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All sorts of beautiful fabric? are to be worn ard there is very great variety in i design but. in a general way, it may t be said that belted effects are pccu I iiarly smart. A great many Russian blouses w ill he worn and a great many coats and street dresses that are finished with belts, and these belts are adjusted some above and some at the I natural waist line while à very new E, feature is found in the wide belt that I t slipped down almost to the hip line, and this last appears in children's l (rocks to peculiar advantage. h P EPLUMS are being much worn and. as they always give some thing of a coat effect, the dress rj that is made with a pieplum is pecu i Iiarly well adapted to street wear jp The one shown here is finished with a little ve.-tee and collar and revers that accentuate that effect. It is designed for young girls and small women who like youthful styles and is attractive, charming and delightfully smart. For 'j| the early season, it would be charming 5 developed in ratine or one of the new cotton velours or light weight serge or any material of the kind Later such dresses will be made from foulard cotton crépie and from all the pretty UoKr meiirht fabrics of the warm I I I I 07 I ii m » i I I I i i I i w ;// i : 71 , I fl I |H I I C' i - 1 - i 17/ 111,1 i ( I I '■# j. i 1 < ; weather The simple skirt has seams at the sides only, for the front edges are overlapped tical advantage to be found in such frocks lies in the (act that the peplum need not be used and, when it is left off. the dress becomes just a simple plain one adapted to any simple fabric A prac HE Russian blouse idea appears different forms and T in many always is interesting. Long sleeves and slightly open necks with soft turned-over collars make important features of spring and summer styles but women who do not find the open neck becoming always can obviate the ^fficulty while obtaining the same effect by wearing little chemisettes of The Russian thin transparent net. garment shown here is unusual on*, for the Russian blouse effect is obtained by using a separate peplum and. as a matter of course this p>eplum can bo left off if some thing plainer is wanted, ture, the blouse and peplum are made of fancy material while the skirt is of plain. That effect is pretty but there others that might be sug Plain and fancy foulard a somewhat In the pic arc many gested. would make a good effect or a blouse and pieplum of colored voile while the skirt is of white; again plain and embroidered cotton crâne or éoonae f a ! K 1 ii (• 7 m 70 can be combined to make a very beautiful gown. Cotton is the ma terial par excellence this season and if is shown in every possible weight and weave N spite of the great general variety for which this spring is remark able. cutaway effects arc met in very generous numbers and all the cutaway coats are to be extensively The suit shown here is pretty 1 worn. for one material and also for the coat of dark and skirt of lighter fabric or the coat of silk and the skirt of wool There is a narrow panel or cotton, at the front of the skirt and one at the front of the coat that extends just to the belt and these panels combine to give the long lines that are so much liked The three-quarter sleeves are slightly bell in shape, but many women will like the long plain ones and it is easy to make the change. The skirt is a very novel one, for the front and side edges are cut with extensions that are buttoned over the narrow panel at the front and the plain back. HE very long waist line is gen erally becoming to little girls and this frock is given an exceed ingly smart suggestion by means o( the wide lv»l» •"* T \ I 1 I 1 • 4 s, ^55 simple one. There are tucks that are stitched to the waist line at the back and fall free from that point and fronts that are lapped onto a panel and buttoned into place. Nothing could be prettier for linen, piqué, éponge, cotton crêpe and also for the simpler ginghams and the like. In one view, white linen is trimmed with the same material in the beautiful shade of Nell rose. In the other, blue linen is trimmed with black and white. A pretty effect could be obtained by the use of plain white éponge with the same material showing an all-over design in flowers for the trimming pot tion. MAY MANTONS FASHION NOTES. PRING seems close at hand, and while we are having only an occasional touch of cold to remind us that old Winter is still at work. Most of the days are bright and sunny and really seem to bespjeak spring with genuine intensity, ft will not be long before the costumes ws are now discussing will be in actual demand and. while there are many immediate needs the future in fashions is always interesting We have been talking a good dea' about tha iauntv little coat* that will s make such an important feature and there still remains considerable that may be said on that score, but. perhaps, the most immediate pressure is found in the Russian garment in many varia tions. We have the blouse now in use both as a street garment and for indoor wear and Balkan influences have produced a long, loose blouse held by a circular band over the hips which is very attractive and smart and which will unquestionably be conspicuous throughout the season. It makes a really ideal coat that is sufficiently youthful In effect to find a ready wel come and, in some of its simple varia tions, it is well adapted to the outing blouse. Unquestionable, the recent disturbances have had a very strong influence .upon spring fashions Del signers are indeed ever on the outlook* for some reason to develop along one line or another. It may be a suc cessful .play, it may be a war, it may be any upheaval; but. if it only takes sufficient hold upon the popular interest, it will serve Fashion's de mands. Just now we are having an interesting combination. There are Russian influences and Balkan influ ences, and Bulgarian designs and Bul garian colors are conspicuous, while with really warm weather, we may look for the dainty effects belonging to Louis XVI. Rich blues and rich reds are very beautiful fo? the early season and will, unquestionably, be used, but they are a little warm for summer and it is natural for the lighter and daintier effects to succeed them. A S pretty a feature as any that comes to mind is the use of colored blouses or coats over white or lighter skirts or gowns. A very charming costume, seen today, consists of a skirt of white French crépie with a Russian blouse of the material in pink embroidered in There is a little lace cherai same white. sette and the whole effect is one of daintiness. A most consummate unusual and most attractive costume that is going to Florida this week includes a number of advance features The skirt is drapied at the front and plain at the hack but made of a quite new white broadcloth that is stripied with black. The little coat is tiny and loose, giving an uneven pointed effect mt th* lnu»r «hilft, at if*. Innffftftt. it only reache» the hip Une. ît Is made of real Russian blue broadcloth embroidered in the dark red familiar in Bulgarian work, and there is a waistcoat of the black and white striped material. It is really a fasci nating little suit and one that it prac tical as well. An interesting costume that also is to find its way southward consists of a skirt of white mohair in invisible check and a coat of navy blue serge with collar and cuffs of white bengaline. This coat is held by a single button just below the butt line at the front, from which point, it is abruptly cut away, but it is rather long and straight in the back. French influences are at work in the coats as well as others and this Napoleonic idea is to be met in a great many new costumes. Some of the late winter costumes are giving evidence of the new influences, too. while they are made up for immediate needs. An exceedingly beautiful visiting toilette seen at an important reception of the week, consists of a skirt of white cloth with long Russian blouse of rich blue velvet heavily embroidered and edged with black fox. The belt that holds the blouse in place is a softly draped one of velvet, and. as seen, the costume was worn with a small hat of black velvet with a moderate sized white aigrette rising at the front Russian blouses are worn within doors quite as much as upon the street, however and are in evidence at the Opera quite as much as upon the Avenue. VERY beautiful costume, seen in one of the boxes recently, was made of silver gray brocade mingled with mauve and pink and over it was a Russian blouse of pink mous seline de soie richly incrusted with lace. This blouse was made with long close fitting sleeves of the kimono order and was held at the waist line by a softly draped girdle. And. girdles, by the way. are to be exceedingly im portant. They and sashes are to be extensively used and ribbon is a pro nounced favorite for their making, while ribbons are being offered in the roost fascinating colors and finish. HE thinnest kinds of materials are being used for bodices even if the gown itself is of heavier material and the waists worn beneath the r/v>ts are as thin and light as A T designed for mid-summer weir. Ap parently, we have ceased to feel tha cold; or, at least, we wear such heavy wraps upon the street that the blouse# are not uncomfortable and houses are apt to be kept warm enough to render them comfortable within doors. Paris has evidently set the seal of approval upon the use of soutache for the spring. A very beautiful gown that makes part of a mid-winter trousseau con sists of a velvet skirt with a bodice of fine net richly braided with soutache, little portions of the velvet extending up over it at the front while, at the back, the bodice itself forms a peplum. A very superb gown, seen at the opera "this week, it of raven blue velvet with the bodice largely consisting of flesh pink tulle over which was a corselet of gold tissue making a really superb effect. One of the prettiest velvet suits seen this month with a blouse of matching blue mousseline lined only with the same material in white. Everywhere one turns, there is evi dence of the same idea. Round and V-shaped necks are being much worn throughout the day, too, and apparently, we are hardening our selves in various ways. When the chemisette is worn it is apt to be of exceedingly transparent material and, for the handsomer gowns, the flesh colored tulles and chiffons are being much used. From Paris comes tha suggestion of the use of flesh colored chiffon beneath white tulle for wear with low gowns when the conventional low corsage is not possible, and these thin materials are being put to a great many interesting uses. Y no means an unimportant feature of the spring fashions is to be found in the use of vivid colors. We pre seeing a great deal of Nell rose and a very great B quantity of Besnard red and new frocks are being shown made of American Beauty red. Babrics show mixture of silk and wool are ing a great favorites and very, very beau: tiful they are. A very fascinating gown that is available for the informal dinner, whether at home or at the restaurant, for the theatre and occa sions of the kind is made of American Beauty red voile, woven of silk and wool, combined »nth ecru filet net that has been enriched by embroidery.