The herald. [microfilm reel], December 16, 1894, Page 9, Image 11

About The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900

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Take * TTake
Central Avenue
I Cheaper and Better than auction Lots.
Central Avenue
Electric Car... Electric Car...
; ■—1,. , , , i . ■, —■ '
j LOTS <M CASH MD TEN d OLLARS per MONTH LOTS
I FROM UP TO
. ■ BUYS A. LPT IN
— ALEXANDRE WEILL TRACT. 4UO
$950
RICHARD ALTSCHUL, Sole Agent, Monthly
%%%%%
GET map 4 i 5 North Main- Street, InstaUments
OF ONLY
AND NEW
. -y . LOS ANGELES, CAL. a
Price List. cp IU.
Central Avenue j Central Avenue
WE CHARGE NO INTEREST.
Eighth and Fourteenth Eighth and Fourteenth
FASHIONS FOR MEN.
Harper's Bazaar and Vogue, those
two reliable fashion journals, are giving
so muoh valuable space to the fashions
for men and boya that it will not be
amiss to reprint some of their timely
suggestions for (he benefit of the men
here who wish to be appropriately
dressed in the way of fabric and out; or
that the wives and sisters may read and
tell husbands and brothers who are too
busy to read for themselves, or again,
for mothers of very little men to know
what to buy in the way of garments,
even if they are not compelled to have
their tailoring done at home.
No. 2.
The evening or dreaa suit, which
should be worn to dinners, to the play,
to pay evening calla, and, ol courae, to
receptiona, balls or daucea, should be
made ol unfinished worsted or vicuna or
broadcloth. The collar and lapel of the
coat may be covered with ailk, or even
velvet, and the collar ia notched ; a sin
gle button on tbe sleeves is correot; the
tails are rather long, and are cut square
rather than in the old pigeon-sbape
fashion. Single-breasted waistcoats with
three buttons, cut very low and showing
as much of tbe shirt front aa possible;
white waistcoats of pique or simple.duck
at balls or the theater are permissible;
troueera plain without any braid on the
seams, and tho width not aa exagger
ated as last year. Patont-laAther pumpa
and black silk atookingß are indispens
able adjuncts to evening dress. Tbe
evening shirt is very plain, laundered
without a suspioion of gloss, with either
two or three buttons of white enamel,
pearls or plain gold; collars high and
straight, and informal occasions, or, in
case of a very ehort neck, tbe plain turn
over collar may be worn. Aa to tbe tie,
a'plain lawn tie arranged in a rectangu
lar bow is the smartest, and the plain
black tie of satin or groa grain, also a
reotaugular tie for the play or informal
occasions.
The frock coat this winter ie a com
mon-sense garment, and ia made of vi
cuna or rough worated. It comes just
below tbe knees, and the skirts fall at
angles rather than stick out as if they
were hading a crinoline. It is silk-faced,
not buttoning too high, and with one,
not three, buttons on the sleeves. In
fact, it is tbe same ooat of a few years
ago, but it ia longer and of different ma
terial. Trousers are almost psrfectly
straight and not as fall. The materials
and tbe patterns are about tbe same
dark cashmeres with email stripes.
There is a revival of tbe shepherd's
plaid in London. They are in large
checks, blaok <md white. These are
considered to be very smart, and tailors
here have bad numerous orders for
them.
No. 9.
There baa been some attempt to do
away with the cutaway coat. Tbe blaok
diagonal, with its two to four buttons,
its rather abbreviated akirt and tail—
tbia very distinctive garment of tbe
American —ia no longer of tbe fashion.
In its place there is one of soft material,
suoh as tbe obeviot, tha Angola, or a
woolen roughly finished, and so yield
ing as to oling to the figure. This is of
course copied after the English eat,
which promotes looseness rather than
tightness in fit. It has three buttons,
and just under the third one it makes a
direot slope for the back. Both skirt
and tail are quite long, reaching below
tbe knee.
For general comfort and for wear and
tear there is nothing like tbe sack suit.
The English call it tbe lounge, and
make it loose and comfortable, choosing
tweeds and woolen goods, and mixed
black and grays and warm browns, and
again cheviots and Seotoh designs. In
this they are sensible. The styles in
America are modeled after the London
fashions in sack auits. Neither has un
dergone any change, except that the
ooats are shorter. It remains without
doubt the most becoming set of gar
ments a man can wear. He actually
lives in them, and be grows to love
them, and be hates to throw them
aside.
There are all kinds and all spsoies of
overcoats, of many different cuts and
styles and made of various materials,
but there is among them all nothing
like the single-breasted dark blue Mel
ton with a velvet collar. It is a garment
which will always be dressy, it is essen
tially genteel and it ia most serviceable.
These are truly sardinal virtues in a
coat.
An overcoat mast always fit easily
over tha undercoat, and in its length
have about an inch to spare. The Mel
ton Chesterfield, being of a firm, smooth
cloth, never wrinkles if well made, and
JjOS AtTGFECES HERALD STTNDAY MORtfTNG, DECEMBER 16, 1894.
is always presentable. It oan be put on
with a high hat, and again with a derby
or a Hombourg. And yet it ia not a
garment which everybody could wear to
the same advantage. Like the well-fit
ting dress coat, it proclaims the gentle
man.
No. 3.
The long blaok coat, mads of rough
wonted, lined with silk and with an
Inverness cape; this ooat ia very looae
and ia the beat thing to wear over even*
ing dreii. It does not disturb tbe fresh
ness of the ooat on tbe abirt and looka
well with a illk hat, and a gentleman's
wardrobe can contain no better or more
useful article.
Boots and shoes have bad bat little
change. Tbe toes are not pointed, bnt
rounded, and a stickler for dress insists
that the smartest thing for afternoon
wear is tbe patent-leather walking boot,
buttoned, bnt not laoed. Russet shoes
are favorites for tbe country, and for
rainy weather in the city. They ara
also worn a great deal with sack or
business suits, especially if the latter be
brown in color, add always for traveling.
Tbe collar for ordinary occasions ia
moderately nigh and square. Tbe Eton
collar, which turns over so as to preserve
the form of a very high standing one,
ia much in vogue among young men,
who wear with it a simple black bow in
way of neok gear. Colored shirts of
percale and linen, pinks and blues the
favorite hues, are worn in the morning,
and by some even with frock ooats in
tbe afternoon. This latter fad is consid
ered very British, but it smacks of
Cheapside rather than tbe West End,
Tbe silk bat of this season is rather
small in tha orown and extends up in a
bell-like shape, with a very narrow band
of ribbed black ailk ribbon; the brim ia
curling and bound with ribbon of tbe
same quality and kind.
Tbe Homburg bat is still very muoh
in vogue for informal ocoasions, either
in gray with band of lighter shade, or
brown with brown band, or black with
a black groa grained ribbed band. The
black darby bat is still much worn, a
little higher in the crown, with graceful
curling brim.
Tbe neckwear this winter is somewhat
elaborate, The English scarfs are cut
very much like tbe Ascot, but they are
more voluminous. To tie them requires
a great deal of patienoe and muoh in
genuity. In faot, a diagram would not
be amies. They must be brought over 1
like tbe Aaeot end then made in a knot.
Below tbia a acarf pin ia inaerted. Bat
there ia yet more to come. The ailk
moat be puffed oat and oover the entire
ahirt front, wbioh meana a great deal
now that waietcoata are out ao low and
men wear their coats habitually unbut
toned. Red aeema to lead, and tha
windows of tbe shops are simply daz
zling with thia brilliant color. The
handsomest of all the English scarfs in
this shape, however, are of black silk or
satin, with small flowers, or designs
raised in white or blue, or again in the
all-prevailing red.
If the arrangement of these cravats
proves too much for the patience of tbe
ordinary man, be can select a four-in
head, which is still the fashion this
year. These are, however, narrower
tbia season, and blaok with oolored de
signs or stipes are the most popular.
Again, there are very narrow blaok ties
to be adjusted in a single knot like a
four-in-hand, or tha ordinary club tie or
cravat, to be arranged in a square bow;
and the latter come in all possible de
signs and colors. 80 it will be seen that
with such an embarrassment of riob
material, a man can vary easily spend
quite a small fortune in the item of
scarfs and ties alone, and men have
been known to make collections of
these bits of ribbon as others gather
around them old china or rare books.
WHAT SMALL BOYS WEAR,
There is a tendency to using kilt
skirts on boys np to 5 years of age, in
stead of putting them in knee breeob.es
No. 4,
when only 3 years old. The mother's
preference deoides the matter usually in
favor of keeping her boy ia skirts,
though much also depends on the child,
on hie size, and on his fancies, one sens
itive little fellow with golden curia pro
testing as shyly when seen without his
ekirt as did Rosalind herself when die
covered in trousers in the foreat of
Arden.
Blue serge for daily wear, and white
serge for best, are ohosen for tbe kilt
and little jacket in the winter, though
some boye wear white pique suits all
tho year. There are broadcloths, tricots,
cheviots and velveteens for tbe largest
bdVs, but serge ia in beat tasto for all
sizes. Tbe short jncket may be square
corneted, or else rounded in Zouave
fashion, but mast never reach tbe edge
of the full white blouse beneath. The
kilt is either side-pleated or in box
pleats, falling just over the knee, and ia
sewed to a aileaia waiat. The full droop
ing blouse with large square oollar ia of
fine white lawn or of Japanese ailk
daintily embroidered. Norfolk pleated
suits of cheviot, and Scotch plaid kilta
with plain cloth jacketa, are alao shown
for boys of five years. An important
matter is that the kilt skirt be worn
without petticoats underneath to dis
tend it, The kilt should hang straight
with unbroken pleats over knee- breeches
made of the same material as the kilt,
or something similar. Tbe child should
be made comfortably warm by merino
drawers and long blaok woolen stock
ings. His buttoned shoes have cloth
tops and patent-leather below. The hat
is a Tarn o'Shanter of blue serge or of
tan leather, and his overcoat is a warm
blue reefer or else a long cape-coat of
oloth covering him to the anklea.
No. S.
The ever-popular eailor suits are made
for boys from 3 to 8 yeara of age, and are
also need by those 12 years old. The
smallest boys (who should still be in
kilts) wear either tbe sailor trousers
flaring at tbe foot or else short knee
breeches. The midshipman suit, copied
from the regular navy jaokat, iB of blue
serge, tbe fronts opening on a shield or
vest of serge embroidered with crossed
anchors and three bars in red. Four
little brass buttons are on each aide of
tbe open jacket, and there is a large
eailor collar of the serge, over which a
separate collar is worn, either of white
serge 'or pique. Sometimes a white
shield is also used, of serge or of galatea.
Heavy flannels are needed under the
open jacket. This boy wears a reefer of
thick blue chinchilla, which may now
be ornamented with regulation buttons
of tbe United Statea navy, instead of
tbe anchor buttons to long worn.
Military suits are offered as rivals to
sailor suits for boys of 4 to 12 years.
They are made of bright blue doeskin,
of the bluo-gray cloth worn by West
Point cadets, or else of dark blue cloth.
The coat is cut like a United States of.
ficer's undress coat or sack, buttoned
up the single-breasted front by five but*
tons, and braided across in five leaves.
Similar ornaments are on the high
turned-over oollar on the eleeveß. The
knee-breeches are quite straight. To
complete this suit very effectively is a
military cape of the cloth of the coat —
a circular cape suob as offioere wear.
It has a hood attached, and is lined
throughout with red flannel or cloth. A
row of military brass buttons is down
tbe front of the caps.
School suits for boys from 5 to 15
years of age are made of cheviots, light
grays or browns, or darker mixtures, or
else checked. Most of those suits have
a double-breasted jacket and knee
breeches, but the present fancy is to
put trousers on hoys of 12, an unbecom
ing fashion, making them look like old
men. With these are worn a sack coat
and vest, a shirt, with standing collar
and scarf, and a derby hat.
Ohuroh suits for boys up to 10 years
are made of blue or green cloth, with
tbe jacket meeting at tha throat and
opening below over a long vest. It is
handsomely braided in cross-rows of
blaok on eaob side of the front. Tbe
knee pantaloons have also cross-rows of
braiding. A turned-over collar of linen
is worn, with a large silk bow at the
throat of a dark oolor or else of plaid.
No, C
When taken into society, the Eton
suit with trousers is worn by boys of
eight to fourteen years, even though
they wear knee breeches with other
suits. Tuxedo suits are worn by youths
of from 10 to 1G years. The Tuxedo coat
is a sack coat with shawl collar and
dress-coat front. It is made of soft black
worsteds similar to those used for men's
evening clothes. Knee breeches or
trousers may be worn as one chooses.
If these suits are coneidered extreme,
then a three-buttoned, cut away sack
may be made of blue or black tricot or
diagonal, with a bit of a pique veat
showing.
Chinchilla reefers and short box ooate
are ie great favor with boya for over
coats for general wear. The short box
ooat cut etralght is liked for boys in
knee breeches. Something for swell oc
casions is a long box coat of dark blue
kereey with a velvet collar.
Miss Debutants.
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